Yes sir I agree with all your info . Up here in Maine I’ve been burning wood for 35 years I cut and split in winter and stack in April and it’s dry by the following November . I stack in open sunny area then cover in October
hi there interesting . some thing i agree and some not to much , over the years i have done a lot of videos on drying wood , i have 3 old farm platform scales i put it on , and take several weights . there are several ways of drying a bit faster , like instead of a 4x4 piece a 2x8 , where you stack it ,like s sunny spot , the way you stack it , pile criss cross vs all the same direction in the stack , how it is covered , there is so much on this drying wood thing , now the big thing wood can look like it was just cut but very dry with no gray at all . i had a 1-1/2 cords in my green house back in 10/18 over 6 years ago , looks like you just cut it . running 5-8 % depending on the humidity. it's oak with no bark or sap wood on it . . i did make a cover over a 10 cord amount of wood it dried super fast and very dry , smelled like attic wood . there are viidoes of it but not sure if i could find it , i have a bunch out there , good show , best to all john
I bought some firewood from a guy in Stockton Missouri and it was oak and he said it was seasoned. We'll i checked it and the meter said 18%. I know that wasn't dry just by looking at it. In Florida I cut down some Live Oak trees and split it and in the hot sun there would be dry enough to burn in the winter if i cut it around spring. I had close to 10 racks and a lot of it i had to throw away because it was pretty rotten and didn't weigh anything. That Oak is bought from this guy here in can burn now. I noticed most people don't know the different measures of firewood. Some selling it here don't even split it at all, which I don't want to do it either.
I think it's good to check your wood before you buy it. They say under 20% is dry enough but I have found that 18% even, is too wet to burn well. I like it below 15%, minimum.
Thx for the video. Up in the foothills of California, our summers are in the 80s, 90's, and 100's from mid-May until late October, and the weather is dry (that's why I can cool our house 25-30 degrees on a 100 degree day with an Evap cooler). Last year I stacked my firewood, cut 16" long, on 6 elevated drying racks, (learned from TH-cam) each holding about 1/2 cord (16"x4'x12'). Surprisingly the oak was 10-12% by November. I moved as much as I could into my firewood shed before the reasons, which is closer to the house than my drying stacks. It is airy, with one side completely open, but I stack the wood tightly, so I don't feel it's a good drying. But it does keep dry wood dry, and handy. It was my first year with a wood stove. Last year I did allot of splits like the wedges of a pie, about 4-6" on the wide side. I found these a bit unwieldy, although they burned fine, after I started with cedar. This year I just split 2 cords, and I am aiming for more rectangular splits, 2-2.5" x 4-5". They should dry faster, be easier to handle, and be much easier to stack in my somewhat small Jotul stove. I do have some larger pieces (4x6"), which may work well for over night burning, but I've gotten away from the large triangular splits. I think the drying racks speed up drying, but I have to then move a couple cords to the shed before winter. The rest I cover, and can move to the shed later in the season. It takes a couple afternoons using my truck. I realize that from cutting, hauling, splitting, stacking, shedding, then stacking on the porch, then putting them in the stove, I move each piece several times. But I enjoy the process, love the wood heat, and that I didn't get one propane bill this winter, compared to 3 or 4 at $300-$400 each last year to heat our radiant floors. And I feel like I'm getting paid to work out. I got a 32 Ton CountyLine splitter from tractor supply and it easily handles the largest 20-24" oak rounds I can roll over to it. It's 11 second cycle with auto return works well. It is on the heavy side, but with the ram in the extended position, I can pick up the tongue and move it by myself on gravel. Not bad for a 70+ dude.
I live in Texas. Average temp in my mid-east location during summer is about 95° + . We had a tornado come through in May this year, and i ended up adding the finest white and post oak,pecan, maple and hickory to my wood collection. It was like manna from heaven. Anyway, i figured the only way i have a chance at burning it in December is stacking only 13 inch long pieces 8 ft high, cover before even a hint of rain and hope for wind to augment the drying. It was all stacked by june 15th. 8 ft high and 16 ft long ×2. This vid was super helpful. I so appreciate how thorough you were! Now i realize i at least have a shot at burning this Holiday season.
I have my wood stove in what I call the furnace room... The room is large enough for me to stack an entire year's supply of firewood. ( I live in Quebec, so the time I need to heat my 2-story house is at least 6 months) As long as the first few months of firewood is 15-20% it doesn't matter what % the humidity of the rest of the wood is because my wood stove kiln dries it out in no time. Usually by end of Jan, I notice the air is dry because the wood has evaporated most of its moisture, so I stick 2 large pots full of water on the wood stove that act as humidifiers for the rest of the winter up to April.
Thank you. I find splitting the wood a bit smaller than most do is the trick as a 6 inch thick piece will take a few years to dry. It's why they are "overnighters" beecause they are still wet inside and smolder.... Keeping it covered starting in the fall helps a lot, too. Which river?
I split my wood like yours and find it’s ready in 6-10 months. Oak and black locust 10 months, everything else, maple, cherry, ash, 6 months in my woodshed. I live in New England and other than summer, it’s dry weather. Only humid in late June, July, August, for the most part. Great video.
I am fortunate as I have sufficient undercover storage for four years supply, open sided on one side it dries hardwood ash oak etc fully in that time. I also store outside but with tin sheets covering them and they are open all sides. As I clear one bay then these logs are moved in there. Personally I like to burn 3yr old dried wood in my two log burners and never have a problem of tarring in burners or chimney. In the main, it is oak, ash, hawthorn, hazel or poplar with some willow.
I'm in Northwest New Jersey & we get pretty hot (but also humid) summers with cold dry decent snowy winters & I split smaller sized pieces like yourself as well (Red oak, sugar maple, cherry, white ash etc) & usually it takes just 10 or 12 months tops to season any type of wood - dead standing or wet green live dropped I stack the firewood single direction onto above ground lumber racks I build or onto pallets, 3 rows absolute max, 5 feet high abs. max, with tarp covering the entire top & draping over the side at least 18" on both sides. I also stack where I get at least partial sun for 4 hours a day all seasons & if I see a warm sunny weather front coming in spring/summer/fall I uncover everything, the wettest wood especially. Now after this 10 - 12 month drying period has elapsed (even accounting for ground snow height dampening them some years) pretty much every single piece of firewood tests below 20%, most pieces 15% or below & they catch on fire quite well. You're spot on, splitting small is the way to go That initial extra effort in the beginning pays off bigly on the back end. I think this is a classic case of do the extra work initially so that you don't need to scramble picking through, flipping, & restacking your firewood like a madman down the road just to get your fireplace going Great video brother, you definitely know your stuff with this topic 👍
I live in New England and I did a lot of experiments with drying firewood. I learned a lot and still have other experiments I'd like to run. Wood dries fast right at the start (the first 3 months). I also found that frequent rain will really retard drying and I now cover my wood with tar paper, right away. It dries almost as fast in the middle of the cold winter as it does in summer. It also dries about equally well when full piece or halved or quartered (you made me go look at my data and I found that, surprisingly). I did all my experiments by weight, incidentally. I put my data in a spreadsheet and graphed all my results. It was interesting to see. I still need to test things like double stack vs. single, sun vs. shade, and more. Let me give you an idea what the graph showed: in 3 months (summer) the wood lost about 27% in weight. In another year, it lost about another 5% so down 32% in weight. If it happens to rain on the wood every other day during the first 3 months, it won't loose anything (I'm extrapolating from 3 weeks where it rained like that and I loss 0% on fresh cut wood). You are right too that it will regain water once it is dried, if it gets rained on. All testing with red oak. Happy burning! 😉
It’s crazy how long white oak takes to dry compared to red oak. I have some pieces of white oak that are approaching 2 years and they still feel heavy as concrete. Red oak on the other hand seems to be bone dry after about 18 months even bigger pieces. I have a moisture meter but have the same success clanking two pieces together to hear that nice ring for confirmation.
I live on the coast of northern CA. (think giant Redwood trees). It stays cool and damp even in the summer. I have a wood shed built like you say one should be built with lots of air circulation. I burn mostly Douglas Fir and Tan Oak. I have a two year rotation going. I'm cutting wood now that will be burned the winter of 2025. I also work in a sawmill that allows me to collect an unlimited supply of kiln dried 2X4 and 2X6 trim ends, usually 12-24" long. I always mix that in. You have inspired me to get a moisture meter now.
@springhollerfarm8668 white poplar some big ones. I have a couple of cords of dry pine I mix in. The poplar goes in the stove in pieces, some of which will barely fit through the door of the stove. I think I am doing everything wrong, but my little house is warm. Lived in the NWT for almost 30 years, heated a 27 x 40 foot house with big spruce cut green, not split stacked outside one summer house was warm. Some of these logs we bucked up were 14 inch split it with a monster maul at -30 split easy. I am going to change to a different system of better drying I have more time now and not as much access to free firewood.
I have had red oak stay wet (20%) for 2 years if it’s stacked a little too tight and felled at the wrong time of the year. Good air flow is important. Your piles look perfect.
Good overall video. Do you find the crown limbs in your piles (small limbs not split) dry just as well? As for kilns, they are worth it if you are producing kiln dried firewood to sell, so long as the operator is charging enough to cover costs.
Thanks for a good question! Usually, I leave whole the limbwood about the size of my wrist, maybe a bit larger and I have checked it and under about 3 inches dries below 20% in a season, usually. A kiln is expensive and solar ones are cheaper to run and make yourself but for the homeowner it's just as easy to stack and wait. As you mentioned, though, for the seller it may be an option that is worth it but he will need to charge extra to make up the cost, as you said.
I dunno we’re up in Atlantic Canada and you’re probably right the further north you go for sun season etc but we have some of highest average winds in world other than chile lol I feel like it dries pretty quick especially the ends. You’re definitely right it won’t dry if it’s not split down. Most people are just burning woood that’s dry outside and wet inside
I have had 6 inch round logs cut 18 inches long that sat in the sun 2 summers on a pallet that were still near 30% inside. Just split in 2 and it would have been 10% in one summer.
You are correct, I split and store my wood in an open storage shed. It has no walls I used rebar netting as sides. I also stay about 10 inches from the roof to keep airflow going. Also keep a few inches between the rows to improve airflow. What depends as well is the area you live in. Where I live oak will take about 2-3 years to dry. Depending on the size of your chunks. Its quite a wet area. There are loads of myths around pine where I live. People seem to avoid it for the most part. Also saying you need to let it "rain out" for two years as logs before splitting and stacking it. But personally I don't believe that. Best is to get the moisture level down to less then 18/20% but 15 or lower is most desirable.
You are correct. Most of my oak cures down to 12-15% in a season but that is likely because I usually cut standing dead which has already dried from 40% to 25-30% before I cut it. Many people do not split wood small enough to dry below 15% in a year. I find it burns better and cleaner when it is below 15%. 20 is still too wet for a good clean burn.
Yup pretty much on the head about wood wetness. smaller split faster dry depending on weather. and how its stored and stacked it needs good airflow and out of the rain. if the days are not humid great, dries quicker but if its a soggy day it will soak it up. Moisture meters are your best friend and keeping core moister around 10 to 15% is ideal for best heat.
My wife complained and wanted wood split at 2” or close. Everything passed the meter test after one season. I want to show her this video, but hate saying she was right 🤣
My understanding is that in order to accurately test firewood for moisture, you have to test the inside of a split, not the ends. I have always heard that wood that is still in rounds does begin to season until it is split. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks -
Yes, the ends will dry quicker but you want to get it split to get to the interior of the wood. I don't always split it to test but I do to be sure when it counts. I have had 6 inch rounds sit on a pallet in the sun 2 years and still be too wet to burn inside.
All my wood is oak stacked in single rows, smallish splits, with a gap between the rows will dry in 10-11 months. Im 45 min northeast of Baton Rouge, La.
There's an old saying which is absolutely true. "Ash green makes a fire fit for a queen." Very little soot or tar and plenty of hot ash as long as fire gets enough air
In my first fireplace insert ever...not knowing anything...just learning to start a fire...i burned 5 to 6 chords of wet wood..im talking sizzlean bacon wet in maybe half the pile...i burned 24 /7 with maybe only a few hours in between start ups....when it was time to clean...i have straight walled pipe to the roof. I can fit 24 inch logs...wet..hahah He only brushed less than a cup of soot from my chimney because my insert has a catylic converter mesh right before exiting to straight walled chimney...i have a lopi insert..great insert ...
Use a Demhorst professional moisture meter ( want to know my readings are as accurate as possible ) Goes below 20% and I burn it . Live in central N H . Buy my wood green in March and ready by November . On pallets in the sun uncovered- air dried . No wood shed . Shed just slowes the drying time . Been burning wood for 44 years . Soap stone stove with a poured flue and a chimney cap . Only need to clean every 3-4 years . Paid to have it cleaned and said it does not need it . Use Cre-Away 1-2 times per week and little or no creosol
Sounds like you have a great system for drying wood. I have never had a shed but it seems it should help so long as it lets the sun and wind in. Right now I do it like you. open stacks until fall, then cover it. Gonna check out that cre away. I use a powder in a bucket that sounds similar except mine goes on a bed of hot coals but says it does the same thing. basically just makes it brittle (not sticky) so it brushes away easier.
Thanks for the great info. I live in the river valley West of Russellville. Its surprising how those dead trees will wick moisture out of the ground. I have cut some that's been dead for about a year and will be saturated all the way to the top. I know why you cut that Blackjack green. I have seen sparks when cutting dead fallen Blackjack. Tough on the chain.
I burnt 10 to 15 cords a year, cut, split and threw it into a pile like a muskrat house, bark out. I asked my grandpa when he did it, why i have to restack it into rows, easier to dig out of snow in a Candian winter. All the comercial guys stack it in a big pile...
I have read about studies that say the pile dries as well as a stack but am skeptical as the airflow in the middle would be quite restricted and the bottom layer would just rot, sitting in the mud. At least make sure it is off the ground like 6 inches for dryness and airflow.
if you want to dry firewood fast cut split and stack in large ware house and get a very large oil tank wood stove like 300 gallon tank make in to wood stove put in ware house make a very large kndling fire than stuff it full wood should get ware house to a round 200 degrees
Thanks from the UK Ross-on-Wye I am more use to lighting a Blacksmiths Forge in the 1980s we had a gas poker to start the "coke" fuel On holiday I have use the top light method for log burners the last one was called a HOBBIT stove. Top lighting reduces the smoke on start-up I also watch YTber Wilson Forest Lands We will soon buy a log burner of our own decided not to go for a fuel multi burner, I will make a metal basket if I do. . Too make you laugh, in the 1980s my dad started the charcoal BBQ with Oxy Acetylene, no fuel smell and cook straight away.
Yep. SO many times I see ads for firewood online and the wood is freshly split. I know it is most likely from a standing dead tree they just cut and is probably 25% moisture... I used to call them on it but that rarely has a good outcome. So, I made a video. Different types of wood can make a HUGE difference, too. Watch for an upcoming video on that one.
I disagree with pretty wood not being seasoned. I get my wood from someone who has logs sitting for years and splits them into a pile. They are 18-20 percent when I get them. I resplit into smaller pieces and stack in location with nonstop wind (farming area). They are 10-13 percent within 3 months and look just like your nice piles. They are light and clank like dry wood and burns great.
Several reasons 1) no space to stack under cover 2) wind exposure. This is my biggest reason. Wind dries wood more than anything 3) sun exposure to heat and dry wood
You answered the question nicely. I was also going to mention expense. Building a large enough place to store a year's wood is expensive. We are planning a woodshed that will maximize sun and wind exposure and protect it from the rain. I will likely still stack it outdoors for the first season, though. It mainly needs to be kept dry once it IS dry in the fall when rains come and the wood stays wet after the rain longer because it is cold.
@@springhollerfarm8668 .... I got a $2000 wood stove, $1000 worth of stove pipe A $700 chainsaw, a $200 chainsaw, $1000 splitter and a $1000 homebuilt wood shed, been heating with wood for 30 years, amd its the cheapest way to heat my house in the long run. O know its a big investment , i live in a vert humid area, and wood left outside has a short shelf life here.
Not unnecessary. Everyone needs a basic understanding of wood especially new people. The hart wood and cambium, effects of the sun, wind and wood behavior after it has seasoned. Also understanding the types of hardwood In your area. Educate yourselves people. Moisture meter is good to have also..... I can estimate the moisture very closely just by picking the wood up. Not bragging, just learn it.
I've split & burned hundreds of cords of all types of firewood over the years & I think SHF definitely knows his stuff. He's right that climate location does matter but if you initially split your firewood small as he suggests- 10 - 12 months in advance minimum, generally speaking, you will have very burnable adequate low moisture tested wood all around. I''ve never purchased firewood but I'd have tremendous confidence in buying some from him if I ever needed to, no doubt. He knows what he's talking about & it's interesting that we both use many of the same techniques without ever meeting each other a day in our lives. A good sign of competence through well earned trial & error over multiple years of doing this activity I imagine
Nice video buddy. Iv been burning wood 20 years and invested in a moisture meter only about 10 years ago and I wouldn’t be without it.👍
Thanks for sharing. They take the guesswork out of it.
Yes sir I agree with all your info . Up here in Maine I’ve been burning wood for 35 years I cut and split in winter and stack in April and it’s dry by the following November . I stack in open sunny area then cover in October
This has been the most information on drying wood I have seen,along with explaining size and cut. I Thank You.
No, I thank You.
hi there interesting . some thing i agree and some not to much , over the years i have done a lot of videos on drying wood , i have 3 old farm platform scales i put it on , and take several weights . there are several ways of drying a bit faster , like instead of a 4x4 piece a 2x8 , where you stack it ,like s sunny spot , the way you stack it , pile criss cross vs all the same direction in the stack , how it is covered , there is so much on this drying wood thing , now the big thing wood can look like it was just cut but very dry with no gray at all . i had a 1-1/2 cords in my green house back in 10/18 over 6 years ago , looks like you just cut it . running 5-8 % depending on the humidity. it's oak with no bark or sap wood on it . . i did make a cover over a 10 cord amount of wood it dried super fast and very dry , smelled like attic wood . there are viidoes of it but not sure if i could find it , i have a bunch out there , good show , best to all john
I bought some firewood from a guy in Stockton Missouri and it was oak and he said it was seasoned. We'll i checked it and the meter said 18%. I know that wasn't dry just by looking at it. In Florida I cut down some Live Oak trees and split it and in the hot sun there would be dry enough to burn in the winter if i cut it around spring. I had close to 10 racks and a lot of it i had to throw away because it was pretty rotten and didn't weigh anything. That Oak is bought from this guy here in can burn now. I noticed most people don't know the different measures of firewood. Some selling it here don't even split it at all, which I don't want to do it either.
I think it's good to check your wood before you buy it. They say under 20% is dry enough but I have found that 18% even, is too wet to burn well. I like it below 15%, minimum.
Thx for the video. Up in the foothills of California, our summers are in the 80s, 90's, and 100's from mid-May until late October, and the weather is dry (that's why I can cool our house 25-30 degrees on a 100 degree day with an Evap cooler). Last year I stacked my firewood, cut 16" long, on 6 elevated drying racks, (learned from TH-cam) each holding about 1/2 cord (16"x4'x12'). Surprisingly the oak was 10-12% by November. I moved as much as I could into my firewood shed before the reasons, which is closer to the house than my drying stacks. It is airy, with one side completely open, but I stack the wood tightly, so I don't feel it's a good drying. But it does keep dry wood dry, and handy. It was my first year with a wood stove. Last year I did allot of splits like the wedges of a pie, about 4-6" on the wide side. I found these a bit unwieldy, although they burned fine, after I started with cedar. This year I just split 2 cords, and I am aiming for more rectangular splits, 2-2.5" x 4-5". They should dry faster, be easier to handle, and be much easier to stack in my somewhat small Jotul stove. I do have some larger pieces (4x6"), which may work well for over night burning, but I've gotten away from the large triangular splits. I think the drying racks speed up drying, but I have to then move a couple cords to the shed before winter. The rest I cover, and can move to the shed later in the season. It takes a couple afternoons using my truck. I realize that from cutting, hauling, splitting, stacking, shedding, then stacking on the porch, then putting them in the stove, I move each piece several times. But I enjoy the process, love the wood heat, and that I didn't get one propane bill this winter, compared to 3 or 4 at $300-$400 each last year to heat our radiant floors. And I feel like I'm getting paid to work out. I got a 32 Ton CountyLine splitter from tractor supply and it easily handles the largest 20-24" oak rounds I can roll over to it. It's 11 second cycle with auto return works well. It is on the heavy side, but with the ram in the extended position, I can pick up the tongue and move it by myself on gravel. Not bad for a 70+ dude.
Staying busy helps keep you young, that is for sure.
Great, informative video. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
I live in Texas. Average temp in my mid-east location during summer is about 95° + . We had a tornado come through in May this year, and i ended up adding the finest white and post oak,pecan, maple and hickory to my wood collection. It was like manna from heaven. Anyway, i figured the only way i have a chance at burning it in December is stacking only 13 inch long pieces 8 ft high, cover before even a hint of rain and hope for wind to augment the drying. It was all stacked by june 15th. 8 ft high and 16 ft long ×2. This vid was super helpful. I so appreciate how thorough you were! Now i realize i at least have a shot at burning this Holiday season.
You must be in east TX.
@stevenputney8790 it's actually
Central, in Temple. Nice and hot.
Hill country, nice. My wife used to live in Burnet and work in Marble Falls.
I have my wood stove in what I call the furnace room...
The room is large enough for me to stack an entire year's supply of firewood.
( I live in Quebec, so the time I need to heat my 2-story house is at least 6 months)
As long as the first few months of firewood is 15-20% it doesn't matter what % the humidity of the rest of the wood
is because my wood stove kiln dries it out in no time. Usually by end of Jan, I notice the air is dry because the wood has evaporated most of its moisture, so I stick 2 large pots full of water on the wood stove that act as humidifiers for the rest of the winter up to April.
Hey. Happy new year! Glad to learn about this from someone who does like me and lives on the other side of the river. I’m tired of the creosote smell.
Thank you. I find splitting the wood a bit smaller than most do is the trick as a 6 inch thick piece will take a few years to dry. It's why they are "overnighters" beecause they are still wet inside and smolder.... Keeping it covered starting in the fall helps a lot, too. Which river?
I split my wood like yours and find it’s ready in 6-10 months. Oak and black locust 10 months, everything else, maple, cherry, ash, 6 months in my woodshed. I live in New England and other than summer, it’s dry weather. Only humid in late June, July, August, for the most part. Great video.
Thank you. Many people don't realize oak only dries about 1-1and a half inches per year. (on both sides)
I am fortunate as I have sufficient undercover storage for four years supply, open sided on one side it dries hardwood ash oak etc fully in that time. I also store outside but with tin sheets covering them and they are open all sides. As I clear one bay then these logs are moved in there. Personally I like to burn 3yr old dried wood in my two log burners and never have a problem of tarring in burners or chimney. In the main, it is oak, ash, hawthorn, hazel or poplar with some willow.
I'm in Northwest New Jersey & we get pretty hot (but also humid) summers with cold dry decent snowy winters & I split smaller sized pieces like yourself as well (Red oak, sugar maple, cherry, white ash etc) & usually it takes just 10 or 12 months tops to season any type of wood - dead standing or wet green live dropped
I stack the firewood single direction onto above ground lumber racks I build or onto pallets, 3 rows absolute max, 5 feet high abs. max, with tarp covering the entire top & draping over the side at least 18" on both sides. I also stack where I get at least partial sun for 4 hours a day all seasons & if I see a warm sunny weather front coming in spring/summer/fall I uncover everything, the wettest wood especially.
Now after this 10 - 12 month drying period has elapsed (even accounting for ground snow height dampening them some years) pretty much every single piece of firewood tests below 20%, most pieces 15% or below & they catch on fire quite well. You're spot on, splitting small is the way to go That initial extra effort in the beginning pays off bigly on the back end. I think this is a classic case of do the extra work initially so that you don't need to scramble picking through, flipping, & restacking your firewood like a madman down the road just to get your fireplace going
Great video brother, you definitely know your stuff with this topic 👍
Sounds like you have a great system for drying firewood.
Great video in depth stuff
Glad you liked it!
I live in New England and I did a lot of experiments with drying firewood. I learned a lot and still have other experiments I'd like to run. Wood dries fast right at the start (the first 3 months). I also found that frequent rain will really retard drying and I now cover my wood with tar paper, right away. It dries almost as fast in the middle of the cold winter as it does in summer. It also dries about equally well when full piece or halved or quartered (you made me go look at my data and I found that, surprisingly). I did all my experiments by weight, incidentally. I put my data in a spreadsheet and graphed all my results. It was interesting to see. I still need to test things like double stack vs. single, sun vs. shade, and more. Let me give you an idea what the graph showed: in 3 months (summer) the wood lost about 27% in weight. In another year, it lost about another 5% so down 32% in weight. If it happens to rain on the wood every other day during the first 3 months, it won't loose anything (I'm extrapolating from 3 weeks where it rained like that and I loss 0% on fresh cut wood). You are right too that it will regain water once it is dried, if it gets rained on. All testing with red oak. Happy burning! 😉
Tar paper. good idea. I will have to try it. I do have some left.
well done. glad you did the epilogue.
Did it help?
@@springhollerfarm8668 no I was waiting for you to make that point and you didn't and then you did the
Good video. I’ve worked with wood for 50 years
I bet you have some great tips!
It’s crazy how long white oak takes to dry compared to red oak. I have some pieces of white oak that are approaching 2 years and they still feel heavy as concrete. Red oak on the other hand seems to be bone dry after about 18 months even bigger pieces. I have a moisture meter but have the same success clanking two pieces together to hear that nice ring for confirmation.
I love that sound.
I live on the coast of northern CA. (think giant Redwood trees). It stays cool and damp even in the summer. I have a wood shed built like you say one should be built with lots of air circulation. I burn mostly Douglas Fir and Tan Oak. I have a two year rotation going. I'm cutting wood now that will be burned the winter of 2025. I also work in a sawmill that allows me to collect an unlimited supply of kiln dried 2X4 and 2X6 trim ends, usually 12-24" long. I always mix that in. You have inspired me to get a moisture meter now.
That two year rotation is what I'm working toward... No more rush to get it done, especially if something happens.
In northern Alberta, I cut green wood in April and do not split it stack it in my woos shed and burn it in the winter. No problem burns good.
That's surprising..
@springhollerfarm8668 white poplar some big ones. I have a couple of cords of dry pine I mix in. The poplar goes in the stove in pieces, some of which will barely fit through the door of the stove. I think I am doing everything wrong, but my little house is warm. Lived in the NWT for almost 30 years, heated a 27 x 40 foot house with big spruce cut green, not split stacked outside one summer house was warm. Some of these logs we bucked up were 14 inch split it with a monster maul at -30 split easy. I am going to change to a different system of better drying I have more time now and not as much access to free firewood.
Dehumidifier work too. I usually run one in my house anyway since our climate so wet
I have had red oak stay wet (20%) for 2 years if it’s stacked a little too tight and felled at the wrong time of the year. Good air flow is important. Your piles look perfect.
I have found the same thing about the time of year. I almost exclusively cut in winter when the sap is down in the ground. Split small, it helps.
Good overall video. Do you find the crown limbs in your piles (small limbs not split) dry just as well? As for kilns, they are worth it if you are producing kiln dried firewood to sell, so long as the operator is charging enough to cover costs.
Thanks for a good question!
Usually, I leave whole the limbwood about the size of my wrist, maybe a bit larger and I have checked it and under about 3 inches dries below 20% in a season, usually.
A kiln is expensive and solar ones are cheaper to run and make yourself but for the homeowner it's just as easy to stack and wait. As you mentioned, though, for the seller it may be an option that is worth it but he will need to charge extra to make up the cost, as you said.
I dunno we’re up in Atlantic Canada and you’re probably right the further north you go for sun season etc but we have some of highest average winds in world other than chile lol I feel like it dries pretty quick especially the ends. You’re definitely right it won’t dry if it’s not split down. Most people are just burning woood that’s dry outside and wet inside
I have had 6 inch round logs cut 18 inches long that sat in the sun 2 summers on a pallet that were still near 30% inside. Just split in 2 and it would have been 10% in one summer.
You are correct, I split and store my wood in an open storage shed. It has no walls I used rebar netting as sides. I also stay about 10 inches from the roof to keep airflow going. Also keep a few inches between the rows to improve airflow.
What depends as well is the area you live in. Where I live oak will take about 2-3 years to dry. Depending on the size of your chunks. Its quite a wet area.
There are loads of myths around pine where I live. People seem to avoid it for the most part. Also saying you need to let it "rain out" for two years as logs before splitting and stacking it. But personally I don't believe that. Best is to get the moisture level down to less then 18/20% but 15 or lower is most desirable.
You are correct. Most of my oak cures down to 12-15% in a season but that is likely because I usually cut standing dead which has already dried from 40% to 25-30% before I cut it. Many people do not split wood small enough to dry below 15% in a year. I find it burns better and cleaner when it is below 15%. 20 is still too wet for a good clean burn.
Yup pretty much on the head about wood wetness. smaller split faster dry depending on weather. and how its stored and stacked it needs good airflow and out of the rain.
if the days are not humid great, dries quicker but if its a soggy day it will soak it up. Moisture meters are your best friend and keeping core moister around 10 to 15% is ideal for best heat.
Thanks. It's mostly just common sense. Everybody wants to get it dry in a couple weeks and that's not happening without using a kiln.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
My summers from may ril oct can be 100° spilt 2 to 3 in. Burns well.my green wood i like to leave in the weather with a freeze. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing!
My wife complained and wanted wood split at 2” or close. Everything passed the meter test after one season. I want to show her this video, but hate saying she was right 🤣
I understand completely.
Greetings from the Pacific Northwest. It's wet here always.
Welcome!
Yes, I would say a covering of some kind would be a requirement there...
You sir are right. I split all my wood small
My understanding is that in order to accurately test firewood for moisture, you have to test the inside of a split, not the ends. I have always heard that wood that is still in rounds does begin to season until it is split. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks -
Yes, the ends will dry quicker but you want to get it split to get to the interior of the wood. I don't always split it to test but I do to be sure when it counts. I have had 6 inch rounds sit on a pallet in the sun 2 years and still be too wet to burn inside.
Use house wrap for a tarp, it lets the moisture out but keeps the rain from getting in.
Great idea. I do have some left, I will need to try it.
Interesting video - thanks
I trust this man.
Thank you!
All my wood is oak stacked in single rows, smallish splits, with a gap between the rows will dry in 10-11 months. Im 45 min northeast of Baton Rouge, La.
Oak takes longer to dry than some other species, but 10-11 months is not unreasonable.
There's an old saying which is absolutely true. "Ash green makes a fire fit for a queen." Very little soot or tar and plenty of hot ash as long as fire gets enough air
I hear green ash can be burnt, never tried it, though. Not much ash around here.
In my first fireplace insert ever...not knowing anything...just learning to start a fire...i burned 5 to 6 chords of wet wood..im talking sizzlean bacon wet in maybe half the pile...i burned 24 /7 with maybe only a few hours in between start ups....when it was time to clean...i have straight walled pipe to the roof. I can fit 24 inch logs...wet..hahah He only brushed less than a cup of soot from my chimney because my insert has a catylic converter mesh right before exiting to straight walled chimney...i have a lopi insert..great insert ...
Use a Demhorst professional moisture meter ( want to know my readings are as accurate as possible ) Goes below 20% and I burn it .
Live in central N H . Buy my wood green in March and ready by November . On pallets in the sun uncovered- air dried . No wood shed .
Shed just slowes the drying time . Been burning wood for 44 years . Soap stone stove with a poured flue and a chimney cap .
Only need to clean every 3-4 years . Paid to have it cleaned and said it does not need it .
Use Cre-Away 1-2 times per week and little or no creosol
Sounds like you have a great system for drying wood. I have never had a shed but it seems it should help so long as it lets the sun and wind in. Right now I do it like you. open stacks until fall, then cover it. Gonna check out that cre away. I use a powder in a bucket that sounds similar except mine goes on a bed of hot coals but says it does the same thing. basically just makes it brittle (not sticky) so it brushes away easier.
What's that handle you're holding for?
You mean the selfie stick?
Thanks for the great info. I live in the river valley West of Russellville. Its surprising how those dead trees will wick moisture out of the ground. I have cut some that's been dead for about a year and will be saturated all the way to the top. I know why you cut that Blackjack green. I have seen sparks when cutting dead fallen Blackjack. Tough on the chain.
I can't say I have cut it dead before. I know hedge (osage orange) is tough on a chain as well.
Is cottonwood a good wood for burning?
Thanks for asking.
Not really. It burns fast and puts out little heat.
It will take a lot more cottonwood for the same amount of heat in a better wood. It is wood and will burn. If it's all you can get, burn it.
Does your wood grow on your property
yes. We have almost 80 acres.
do teachers in your area have oak sticks
I cover my wood when before it rains , and uncover it when it's dry.Keep it coverd when it's cold.Coverd not wrapped.
It drives pretty fast in a hot barn during summer.
I bet it does.
Thank for the video. Advice, with social media, its hard to retain viewers in a faced paced video time.... get to it.
IK. In the hot summertime, I usually don't have a lot going on and if I do, the added time in the heat filming doesn't sound as appealing.
I believe wood will try faster in a pile than stacked!!
There have been studies done and it was closer than I thought it would be, but stacked was faster.
Seasoned firewood means it has been sitting for a season already split! Your moisture is going to depend on exposure and your humidity level!
I burnt 10 to 15 cords a year, cut, split and threw it into a pile like a muskrat house, bark out. I asked my grandpa when he did it, why i have to restack it into rows, easier to dig out of snow in a Candian winter. All the comercial guys stack it in a big pile...
I have read about studies that say the pile dries as well as a stack but am skeptical as the airflow in the middle would be quite restricted and the bottom layer would just rot, sitting in the mud. At least make sure it is off the ground like 6 inches for dryness and airflow.
@@springhollerfarm8668 Well he lived on the farm from 1901 to 1983, I lived there until now and I'm 69, that worked for us.
Ya done good, real good!
thanks!
if you want to dry firewood fast cut split and stack in large ware house and get a very large oil tank wood stove like 300 gallon tank make in to wood stove put in ware house make a very large kndling fire than stuff it full wood should get ware house to a round 200 degrees
I think that would work great but I don't have a warehouse.
Thanks from the UK Ross-on-Wye
I am more use to lighting a Blacksmiths Forge in the 1980s we had a gas poker to start the "coke" fuel
On holiday I have use the top light method for log burners the last one was called a HOBBIT stove. Top lighting reduces the smoke on start-up
I also watch YTber Wilson Forest Lands
We will soon buy a log burner of our own decided not to go for a fuel multi burner, I will make a metal basket if I do. .
Too make you laugh, in the 1980s my dad started the charcoal BBQ with Oxy Acetylene, no fuel smell and cook straight away.
Wood cut in spring dries quicker in the north east
So long as the sap hasn't started running or it will be wetter.
02:04 very true
Yep. SO many times I see ads for firewood online and the wood is freshly split. I know it is most likely from a standing dead tree they just cut and is probably 25% moisture... I used to call them on it but that rarely has a good outcome. So, I made a video. Different types of wood can make a HUGE difference, too. Watch for an upcoming video on that one.
I can get maple to dry less than 20% in 3-4 months
Some woods dry faster but they are usually not as good of firewood.
hi there found one # 132 skip to the middle , you may like it . john
I appreciate you sharing that! Will have to watch.
I disagree with pretty wood not being seasoned. I get my wood from someone who has logs sitting for years and splits them into a pile. They are 18-20 percent when I get them. I resplit into smaller pieces and stack in location with nonstop wind (farming area). They are 10-13 percent within 3 months and look just like your nice piles. They are light and clank like dry wood and burns great.
Pretty sure blackjack oak is in the red oak group.
It seems like it should be but the leaves have rounded tips so it's a variety of white oak.
microwave it then wont need a fire!
Night John boy. 😁
Rascal is looking for mice 😉👍
Always is.
I love burning wood
Me too. Thanks for watching!
i like burning smaller pieces
Me too. more surface area, more heat.
I dont know why people stack wood outside where it can get rained on and wonder why it takes so long to dry firewood? Am I missing somethong here?
Several reasons
1) no space to stack under cover
2) wind exposure. This is my biggest reason. Wind dries wood more than anything
3) sun exposure to heat and dry wood
You answered the question nicely. I was also going to mention expense. Building a large enough place to store a year's wood is expensive. We are planning a woodshed that will maximize sun and wind exposure and protect it from the rain. I will likely still stack it outdoors for the first season, though. It mainly needs to be kept dry once it IS dry in the fall when rains come and the wood stays wet after the rain longer because it is cold.
@@springhollerfarm8668 .... I got a $2000 wood stove, $1000 worth of stove pipe A $700 chainsaw, a $200 chainsaw, $1000 splitter and a $1000 homebuilt wood shed, been heating with wood for 30 years, amd its the cheapest way to heat my house in the long run. O know its a big investment , i live in a vert humid area, and wood left outside has a short shelf life here.
Just get a moisture meter people. It’s cheap and doesn’t give you false information. All these videos about drying firewood are totally obsolete.
Except this one, of course.
Really, all of them?
Why don't you just get a position with the gov't and tell us that burning firewood is obsolete too.
Moisture meters give you data, not advice. Use advice from experienced wood burners and verify with a meter. Tweak your strategy as necessary.
Not unnecessary. Everyone needs a basic understanding of wood especially new people. The hart wood and cambium, effects of the sun, wind and wood behavior after it has seasoned. Also understanding the types of hardwood In your area.
Educate yourselves people. Moisture meter is good to have also.....
I can estimate the moisture very closely just by picking the wood up.
Not bragging, just learn it.
I've split & burned hundreds of cords of all types of firewood over the years & I think SHF definitely knows his stuff. He's right that climate location does matter but if you initially split your firewood small as he suggests- 10 - 12 months in advance minimum, generally speaking, you will have very burnable adequate low moisture tested wood all around. I''ve never purchased firewood but I'd have tremendous confidence in buying some from him if I ever needed to, no doubt. He knows what he's talking about & it's interesting that we both use many of the same techniques without ever meeting each other a day in our lives. A good sign of competence through well earned trial & error over multiple years of doing this activity I imagine
Firewood is ready to burn if, when you touch the end grain to your lower lop, it does not feel cool.
That's a new one. I still prefer the meter or the klink. Who knows what crawled over that piece of wood.
@springhollerfarm8668
Every time I suggest that as an accurate means to determine seasoning, anyone who respjbss is squeamish about the idea.