Well after watching this video, you’ve convinced me that I absolutely must have a wood shelter in order to keep my wood 🪵 from the elements. Usually I stack split wood onto pallets that are laid atop a plastic pallet to prevent rotting the wooden pallet, then I cover them with a piece of rubber roofing material. I’ve just never gotten around to building an actual permanent wood covering. But now, as soon as the spring arrives, I’m going to build one. I’m only getting older so there’s no time for procrastination.😉
Just seen this - wonderful video for us in the uk. That old wives tale poem you refer to doesn’t apply to wood burning stoves at all as it predates them - stoves are so much more efficient than an open fire that you can burn almost any wood if prepared well - which I define as 18% moisture content or less personally (I find my stove complains at 20% - the flames die back and it needs throttling up for a minute to compensate). I also burn softwood with gay abandon - I don’t think you need to worry about sap in softwoods if you get the stove good and hot routinely. Key thing is to follow the steps you e outlined here, site your wood shed / pile well so as to take advantage of breeze and sunlight - and for hardwoods leave the wood alone for a couple of years if you can.
I have found that my stove burns about 20% of the wood I used to burn on an open fire, and the room is warmer! I once read that an open fire is around 13% efficient.
Absolutely right! The wood shed is a larder for you to collect the right logs for what you are wanting your fire to do. Many years ago I saved a big chunk of 'fatwood' Scots pine as my Yule log. It burnt so fiercely in the open fire on Christmas morning that the family had to leave the room - not my finest moment of fire-craft! Merry Christmas. Vince
white oak, red oak and hickory i have in abundance in se usa where i live. i never want to go into winter without poplar for starting my fires however. 32 years now weve heated with only wood. i love it
Now poplar is a wood I hardly know. I do know the old rhyme is wrong saying it has a bitter smoke - it does not! We don't get hickory in England, a pity.
I found the first chapter of Walden a bit heavy, but after that it is great - and he'd be pleased that over 150 years later, very many of us still agree with him!
I split Oak, Elm, and Beech into flat slabs about the size of a paperback book and make sure it's stored with good airflow. All ready to burn in 6 months!👍
Well said, Vince. I’m following this rule of thumb. This year I have put in a lot of work to try and get our wood ready for winter, next year. I am on the Southern Hemisphere, Australian and as you do, I love my wood heater. Thanks for sharing your great video.
Many years ago I was given some Willow which I cut up and stacked, it sprouted the first year then dried out, when I burnt it, it was the best wood ever, it burnt clean bright and hot with no smoke and smelt wonderful.
Any dry logs are good logs. And the issue of willow spitting sparks is only a problem with open fires. It is one of the least dense species and my space is limited, hence it not being a favourite of mine. All best, Vince
What a wonderful video Vice, thank you. I burn mostly ash and oak here in Michigan. And i often find i have to cut the logs down to a smaller size, that i get delivered. I have 4 log stands. 2 that are for seasoning the wood, 1 ready to burn that i keep near the house,and the other is for pine for the fire pit for outside fires.
South Mississippi here. I split my wood almost to toothpick size. My Buck heater just performs so much better. I don’t mind having to reload a bit more often. Ive learned too to harvest my trees in the dead of winter. Regardless of species, there’s less sap. Seasons better. Awesome video!!
Hi Roger, many thanks. It is a simple truth to split smaller and dry quicker, I know some people don't need that. And the sap thing is like folk-lore here in England. We say, 'cut when the sap is down' - Although there is some research that shows it doesn't matter!? All best, Vince
You seem very knowledgable vince. Appreciate the video. I have a load of larch rounds that I now know I have stacked poorly. Need to have a reshuffle. Appreciate the tips and info. 👌🏼
You are very welcome - there is always something new to learn with woodfires, and that's part of the fun. Larch is one of the best softwoods, I would split it fairly small to get it as dry as you can - I burned a lot of European larch last winter, spits a bit but is a good firewood.
Now that is a lovely firewood - some species are cross grained and can get difficult to split when dry. So, if it is not split now, I would get the axe out soon! Thanks for your comment. Vince
TH-cam’s algorithm recommended this video. There was something about this video that seemed familiar, so I went to find the book I read last year! The Wood Fire Handbook! It’s great to put a face to the author. Glad to have found your channel
Thanks vince for another great video, I’ve recently started chopping my own wood with an axe after watching your video on it I can’t believe how enjoyable it is lol I love it . More videos please 🙏🏻
One of the simplest and excellent videos. I did not know the girdling of the log length wise would help the drying process for rounds. Been burning in my wood stove for years and this is the first I’ve heard of this technique. Excellent video. I also split my oak in 2” plank forms to dry it quicker. Elm is a pain to split with my 25 ton splitter, don’t get it much. Always wondered about the dry time.
I agree, as I had not seen ripping the bark lengthwise as a technique until I was visiting England's last brush handle factory in the 1990s. They needed even seasoning of long poles of 6" to 10" diameter. So the bark was left on, but ripped three times evenly around the pole. It struck me then as quicker and easier than splitting small roundwood firewood logs, and speeding up the drying time. The elm I get might be a bit unusual - it is slow grown in hedges and seems very dense. All best. Vince
As a kid we always cut dead elm. Now I know why. My splitter almost quit trying to split a 10" block with no knots. I turned it , flipped it multiple ways. It would not split. I've got a saw mill now and thats how I'll split my green elm, lol.
@@WoodFiresWithVince that is a great mindset. Some time ago I found your channel and about the same time my neighbor which is above 80 years old needed a help with splitting wood - I really enjoying it:-) I even bought my own splitting axe. Will ask my wife to buy my your book for xmass:-) All the best.
I'd never even thought about splitting logs into square or rectangular shapes. I had some what I think is Western Hemlock, cut down in the back garden, so I'm going to use the square method when I split that. Cheers!
For the Aussie hardwoods i burn, 3 summers, split straight away and stacked in a woodshed. Some argue that outside in the rain and weather seasons the wood quicker. I believe its local climate dependant. My wood wont season and just rot/decay if left in the rain. Thanks for the video and great looking stacks👍
Yes that would work too. I do find it quick after felling a tree to run the saw along two sides from about 5 inch diameter down. But the brush factory I got the idea from used three knives to put cracks in the bark as you suggest. All best. Vince
That is a fairly difficult thing to do, I am thinking to make a video on log identification one day. But the most important thing is that a log is as dry as you can get it, whatever the species. All best wishes, Vince
Very interesting on the splitting size and dry time of oak. Next winter will be my first time burning it, if it measures 20% or lower. I'm liking the idea of smaller splits for drying but also fitting the maximum amount of wood in the woodstove for longer burn times. Here in Oregon I mainly burn alder, Douglas fir, and hemlock. Looking forward to burning red oak and maple the next few winters.. Also interested to see how much better old growth Douglas fir with thick bark burns/heats!
I have always understood that, pound for pound, bark has more heat energy than the wood itself. Your red oak should dry a little quicker than the English oak I am splitting and stacking - but the rule 'splitting smaller speeds drying' still applies of course. Good luck with it all. Vince
Hi David, In the UK it is a bit complicated as it depends on whether the land or trees is/are designated, how much you want to fell and what it is for - own use or sale. The best thing would be to talk to the Government's forestry department and get local guidance. Hope it works out ok. All best. Vince
Good list of "well, it depends on..." s. Imo, the 2 year rule comes into play from folks who A) like BIG horkin' chunks- like 4-6" thick, and B) dry outside in stacks, where the wood is exposed to rain. Most important: GET IT OFF THE GROUND!!! Oak, especially- that wood is like a sponge, and will soak up groundwater until it's even wetter than it was green... The best advice, is plan ahead. Start cutting next year's (or better yet, the year after that) now. There really is no substitute for time. Personally, My all around favorites for burning are: Ash; Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, Hickory, and Honey Locust. Close behind are oak, beech, and Norway Maple (a decent substitute for sugar) Pine, white birch, yellow poplar, and soft maple for campfires. Cherry and Apple for grilling. That's what's readily available to me, either free or from sellers. I cook with wood, and burn recreationally rather than heat. I'd love a woodstove, but don't have one...
I agree totally. If you want big chunks, store it for years - but beginners often get the idea that all firewood takes that long. Rain off and air through, and as you say, particularly underneath. Great woods you have in your area. Thanks for your thoughts.
@@timgiles9413 Hi Tim, That is a big question! When I was writing, The Wood Fire Handbook, I relied heavily on American research as good UK/European can be a bit scarce. I can't find the US products summary of best to worst firewoods - but this link seems pretty good. www.almanac.com/content/best-firewood-heat-values-wood-burning-tips . . . it's not come into this reply as a hot link, sorry!
Hello, that would depend on how dry your climate is - but in general, I would say get it split, and stacked under cover. Rain off, air through, works in most places. Best wishes, and have a good winter. Vince
Ya thats what I’m thinking is necessary to keep the wood dry right away . I cut some ash in October , stacked it and left it out in the open . Now it has lots of greenish black spot mould on it . I see tones of fire wood just in the middle of a field on farms here in southern Ontario so I thought it was ok . Thank you Mike
I paint the ends and split it, to relieve the radial versus tangential stress in shrinkage. Leaving the bark on a split piece is okay, but not splitting it is risky.
I dropped an elm last autumn and yesterday tried to split it with my Fiskars axe. The axe either bounced off or got stuck. I've never known anything like it. Just bought a maul online, but I may have to cut the logs even smaller. Tough stuff.
I had the same - cut some elm to about 10 inches, my Fiskars X27 wouldn't even touch it. So I halved the logs to about 5 inches and it still wouldn't split them. The best I could do was to 'peel' them smaller by taking chunks from around the outside. Amazing wood. All best Vince
Thanks for another fabulous video. Brilliant to see over 1000 subscribers. I have been trying to get people to sub since I found you at about 980. Great content and relaxing.
I moved to the Carolinas & hurricane Helene took down several 150 ft tall Eastern pine trees, 32" diam. People say I can't burn pine in a wood stove but people that don't have any other wood, burn it. Suggestions?
My understanding is that in order to accurately test firewood for moisture, you have to test the inside of a split, not the ends. I have always heard that wood that is still in rounds does begin to season until it is split.
I totally agree. Splitting logs helps enormously with drying - you might be interested in the video on how to check firewood with a moisture meter. Have a good winter. All best. Vince
I appreciate your channel, I am 68 years old and have some arthritis in my hands and I’m looking for the best way to split kindling because I have to do it regularly and I just found out about FROE. Can you recommend where to get one and what size I should get.?
I think I got my froe from a blacksmith online. And I would look for a blade about 10 inches. It might be more difficult finding a wooden mallet or beetle that is comfortable to work with. But as you say, if an axe is out for you now then this might be just right for your kindling. Good luck with finding what you need. Vince
Fantastic channel and great advice! I would be interested to know how you rate seasoning firewood out in the open (uncovered) compared to the more traditional (in the UK) covered stacks. It seems to be far more common on the continent and elsewhere to just stack firewood out in the open and fully exposed to the elements so why wouldn't it work in the UK, is our climate too damp? I am considering trying it but being in Yorkshire I am a little sceptical😂
Morning Jon, yes I have noticed in France, Greece and central Europe that split firewood can be left out, often still in the woodland between trees. But, we don't have their summer - not yet anyway. So I would always leave the sides completely open, but put a basic roof on, which does need to be slightly above the logs for airflow. I would stay with the rule, air through- rain off. All best. Vince
How can I dry wood if my area in winter is full of dew from morning to night and repeat? Actually I have the wood pilled in a kind of porch well ventilated, but seems not enough. Thanks for the video and the nice tips!
Very little drying of logs happens in winter - it is mostly a spring, summer, autumn thing. But it simply is the logs drying down to the ambient moisture content of where they are stored. So as you say, if your area is sodden wet all day every day in winter, the logs can't dry much. The porch sounds good though. Good luck with it all, Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Let me do a stupid question...If I dry wood on summer...and store it in a cold/wet porch with humidity 70-90%...Will it remain dry or it will absorb moisture again. I have small oak/pine logs mostly. Thanks for the fast reply, you are very kind.
@@gargos669 It's not a stupid question at all! I think the answer is that your summer dry logs will slowly reabsorb moisture through the winter. But with rain off and wind through them the dry logs should last through the winter only slowly gaining moisture. There is not much more you can do. Vince
I do a bit of camping in the summer and like to stock up on my firewood for my trips away. I do chop the wood up into similar piece's you have . I store them in the garage, is that okay to do ?
The big thing is to have some airflow, particularly if the wood is damp when first stored. I would say only gather dry wood or store it under cover outside until it is dry - and then it is fine to store in a dry garage for as long as you like. There is the consideration of bringing insects into your garage. I find elm to be so full of woodworm I do not bring it to the house until I am going to burn it. Also of course, firewood for camping does not need to be as dry as 'house wood' as there is no issue with damaging a chimney or flue. Enjoy your trips away - all best wishes. Vince
I have a spare greenhouse ( I grow enough to eat and freeze, and I was given the greenhouse) . I put all my split logs in the greenhouse for a year, am I doing the right thing ?
I would say get a moisture meter and learn when your logs are ready to burn - my guess is that the logs don't need a year! Of course it does depend where you live too. A big deal is that it is easy to get logs extra dry in a 'solar kiln' - but unless they are for immediate use, where do you then store them? At least you have a green house to use - a great asset! All best, Vince
Hi, it is a concrete base - then a pallet under and behind the wood-stack. I have had an earth base in the past and it dried out fine. But I did have a shallow cut-off drain to stop any water. All best. Vince
I have burnt many cords of "wet" wood. I like it, it burns longer but not so hot. I save those pieces for the overnight. I clean my own chimney so I know how to keep an eye on it and it's not a big job at all.
Interesting, I guess any system that works for the owner is valid. You are perhaps making a trade that you are happy with - to lose potential heat for the convenience of not drying the logs - plus, as you say, damp wood burns slower as it first has to drive off all the moisture. When I first worked in the woods the men would burn just about anything they could get - they were not fussy about maximising heat from their logs. And, unbelievably to the modern world, many regularly cleaned their chimneys by setting fire to them. They showed me how to push a load of newspaper up the chimney to get it going! In the modern smoke-averse world few people with stoves opt for these methods - in fact, wet wood is mostly illegal to sell now in the uk. Have a good winter. All best, Vince
Thank you! I have not heard that before, and certainly it has a nice ring to it. But, being a fuss-pot, I would note that the second part is certainly true. The first bit is questionable as many firewood species split easier when they are 'green'. I am not normally such a misery! Thank you again for your cheerful comment. Vince
We dry split Douglas fir and maple in 4 foot rows cross wind to the low RH summer winds. Piles like yours would take more than 2 years to dry to less than 20 % moisture. I'm 84 years old and. getting impatient by the day in our marine climate
Interesting - we can only work with what we have. I have friends living on a mountain in south west Scotland, where the climate so damp and the summer so short, drying logs to a state where they will readily burn is nearly impossible some years. What are RH summer winds?
I put a Dutch elm through my wood stove. I have to agree with your assessment it's the caviar of wood. I have no use for caviar in any form. I dried it thoroughly and found it to be unexceptional for heat, horrible to split and smelled bad burning. If I get more you can have it.
Interesting! There are dozens of different elm tree species. I am burning hedge-grown English elm which is superb. But I note what you say, that all elms are not equal - and will avoid your Dutch elm! It is interesting that there is such a difference though - although being difficult to split is the same. Thanks for your comment. Vince
It's a lot of work but if the bark is removed altogether, the wood dries much faster. Smash the bark with the back of the axe or maybe use a small jack hammer with a compacting foot on it. The wood also burns better without bark on it.
Agreed - but that is a lot of work! There is also the subtlety that the bark generally has slightly more heat energy than pure wood, - weight for weight. And against that the bark creates far more wood ash, weight for weight. But as you suggest, drying the logs is king and anything to get wood to dry well and quickly is helpful. Thanks for you thoughts. All best, Vince
After this conversation I will try and look up the relative density of the English oak and the American oaks - this is why I enjoy living with woodfires, you never stop learning!
Nice to see some of the myths gently busted. I like your birch wood too. I like to burn birch, but for the last 5 years I have burned almost entirely hazel as I'm involved with restoring 50+ year derelict hazel coppice in an ancient woodland with a huge (sika and roe) deer population. 'Cos I'm keen on woodland ecology and I have no central heating. Hazel is under-regarded as fuelwood, possibly because it is rare in big lumps. The stuff I'm cutting is rarely bigger than 8" diameter and 20 to 30' of usable length. Some of the stools are huge. I knock it over before the end of March (with a following wind) and cut into 5's and stack in a cord under the eaves of the wood where it's breezy. Biggest diameter bits get striped, usually once. End of the summer before the weather breaks (that's the plan) it gets transported home and logged in a brake, 10 or so lengths at a time. Only the very biggest bits get split once. Tops get turned into dead hedges to keep Bambi from the regrowth with directional felling to reduce moving the tops as much as possible. Tenax Dorset gates allow access. Cut logs are stacked in a wooden store with 1-way vapour barrier in the walls and open-fronted with overhang and gutter to the north. By November, it's ready to burn and burns hot and clean. A dense wood, the log lengths are clean and pale with no checking and rare shrinkage cracks, except on the cord length ends. Bark is usually tight. If I can't get it extracted (I miss the weather window) it sits in the cord until the next summer, by which time it is just starting to spalt. If you're interested in what I'm doing, this link will get you to a vid: th-cam.com/video/LnXjrqp3x5Y/w-d-xo.html If you think putting a link to one of my posts is taking a liberty, knock this comment off. Thanks for posting and I look forward to viewing more of your stuff.
This all sounds really interesting - what a lovely place to work. I have seen dead hedges fail to keep deer out many times, but usually it is the Muntjac that get in first. I get the feeling you will not let yours fail! I am starting to cut my firewood for next winter tomorrow, before the sap rises, I am going to do a lot more chain saw 'stripes' to save splitting the smaller logs from now on. And your link is welcome. All best Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thanks, Vince. I have also seen dead hedges fail and a lot of effort put in trying to 'protect' individual stools with brash. Usually a waste of time, although several 'woodland managers' have said that as long as the stools get away eventually, a bit of deer damage doesn't matter from a nature conservation point of view... Yes, the wood is lovely. There's traffic noise, but when I'm up there it is very rare to see anyone else and the ground flora is very good especially where the deer can't get. Sika will graze just as much as browse.... Good luck with the firewood cutting. Everything around here is running with water at the moment.
@@anemone104 Hello, I can't believe that the sap is up already! 16th Jan! Oh well, so be it. I have been a woodland manager and would offer one point - which I think you will already know. You mention in your video wanting the coppice to be commercial - to ensure its longevity as woodland. People whose opinion I trust have told me that commercial hazel needs to grow straight - if to be good for cleft hurdles and thatching spars, etc. So protecting the stools with brash, and any deer damage, may not matter from a conservation point of view - as some 'managers' have told you, but matters hugely when people come to cut and use the rods . . . I think you probably know this, but thought worth a mention if for nothing else than to reinforce your opinion! Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thanks for the reply - good to compare notes: One stool in the wood I work in showed risen sap on the 6th of Jan. And around a big oak standard and under the leaf litter bluebells were starting to poke their heads up. A bit disquieting. I totally agree about 'commercial' hazel coppice - to be viable commercially, hazel must be straight, the right diameter and there must be sufficient density (kind of follows), which is why I have been trying to layer in new hazels. Alas, even given the 'holy grail' of grade 1 coppice, it is difficult to make a living wage. Given sub-optimal form and density of stems, things get more difficult. Alas, in my experience the need to manage hazel for quality and density of standing crop is often disregarded as being 'too difficult' or 'not worth it'.
My pet peeve is when people spread the idea that you should leave it out in a pile in the weather, so it turns darker and looks old. I know that you can dry wood and still have it look like lumber, without all the oxidation and small splits and fungus. Dry is dry, it doesn't help to expose it to the weather out in a field. I think this is a story that firewood processors use to explain why they have a mountain of wood out in the snow, but it's because they didn't have the energy to split and stack it in time.
Great stuff. I find that myboak split at about 5" or smaller dries in less than a year. I do have Great drying conditions though. I also find smaller splits burn better and give me norw heat than large smoldering chuncks
Agreed - I once visited a really old person who had always used and cooked on a wood-fired range. It was interesting that all of the wood she used was split to no more than about 3 inches. She said it burned better and gave a more even heat than bigger logs. Vince
Interesting point. I think what is happening here is that big old fully grown elm are exactly as you describe - but we hardly get them in England any more after Dutch Elm disease. And the western Wych elm is less dense. But the English elm suckers that grow in hedgerows, and then die when about 4 to 5 inch diameter, I find are very dense and excellent firewood. All best. Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Interesting point. I have lots of elm and I hate splitting it with my axe or with a gas powered splitter! Miserable work when they are 14" plus rounds.
Large wood lasts longer all that little stuff you have burns very quickly if yo need your home 80 F and hotter theres something wrong with you? 12 " and up sugar maple / oak off the stump in summer is DRY for the the winter AFTER it gets to 40 F below here burn little stuff like that you will be up 4 times a night sleeping at 60 /65 F is common sense if your wood heater wont keep youwarm yiu need a bigger heater/ better insulation/ common sense people selling firewood dont want you to use LESS wood lol
It is interesting and perhaps the most important thing that we all need to find what suits our own home and climate. I have gone for massive insulation and small fires and it's good to hear that you too have a system that works for you. All best, Vince
You forgot one important factor... the SIZE of your wood stove. My wood stove takes 2ft. logs... that's 24 inches. If I burned small crap like yours it would burn up in less than 2 hours With big logs It can burn 4-5 hours, and the stored heat in my house lasts another 2-3 hours.
The principals of drying are the same, and dry logs are more efficient - even with the big crap! All you say is fine and true, the logs will just take longer to season.
@@WoodFiresWithVince Wrong: That's because I can store my entire years supply of firewood in the room where my woodstove is. I like to call it the furnace room. The wood stove acts as a kiln and dries out the wood in no time while at the same time humidifying the rest of my 2-story house.
15 seconds into the video and it was apparent it's just another waste of time. Why do folks on TH-cam portend they are the next widescreen Hollywood producer. Just present the process. Takes 3-4 minutes.
The world needs more people like you making more content like this.
Thank you, have a good winter!
REALLY !!... shows you know 🤬all about jack 💩
I am a long time wood burner and firewood enthusiast. Great video sir. ❤
Thank you, it seems there are a lot of us out there - nice that TH-cam allows us to meet and share ideas. All best, Vince
Well after watching this video, you’ve convinced me that I absolutely must have a wood shelter in order to keep my wood 🪵 from the elements. Usually I stack split wood onto pallets that are laid atop a plastic pallet to prevent rotting the wooden pallet, then I cover them with a piece of rubber roofing material.
I’ve just never gotten around to building an actual permanent wood covering. But now, as soon as the spring arrives, I’m going to build one. I’m only getting older so there’s no time for procrastination.😉
You will love your woodshed! I think I quote Thoreau, something like - 'All men look upon their woodshed with a kind of affection' - great man.
What calm, soothing delivery. I can listen to you all day. Great content! Thanks .
Thank you - I think woodlands, logs and wood fires make us calm! All best wishes, Vince
Just seen this - wonderful video for us in the uk.
That old wives tale poem you refer to doesn’t apply to wood burning stoves at all as it predates them - stoves are so much more efficient than an open fire that you can burn almost any wood if prepared well - which I define as 18% moisture content or less personally (I find my stove complains at 20% - the flames die back and it needs throttling up for a minute to compensate). I also burn softwood with gay abandon - I don’t think you need to worry about sap in softwoods if you get the stove good and hot routinely.
Key thing is to follow the steps you e outlined here, site your wood shed / pile well so as to take advantage of breeze and sunlight - and for hardwoods leave the wood alone for a couple of years if you can.
I have found that my stove burns about 20% of the wood I used to burn on an open fire, and the room is warmer! I once read that an open fire is around 13% efficient.
@ that’s probably being generous
I have learned a great deal from your videos and I really like your style. Please make more!!!
Thank you - I will make more, as soon as I am up to date with my Christmas tree work! I am glad the videos are helpful. Best wishes, Vince
On the build up to Christmas holiday I was sorting out particular logs for the big day . Not everyone gets that way of thinking but I love it
Absolutely right! The wood shed is a larder for you to collect the right logs for what you are wanting your fire to do. Many years ago I saved a big chunk of 'fatwood' Scots pine as my Yule log. It burnt so fiercely in the open fire on Christmas morning that the family had to leave the room - not my finest moment of fire-craft! Merry Christmas. Vince
white oak, red oak and hickory i have in abundance in se usa where i live. i never want to go into winter without poplar for starting my fires however. 32 years now weve heated with only wood. i love it
Now poplar is a wood I hardly know. I do know the old rhyme is wrong saying it has a bitter smoke - it does not! We don't get hickory in England, a pity.
@@WoodFiresWithVince Poplar is a hardwood but on the low end of the btu scale.
Leaves lots of ash
I only use poplar for kindling, a little goes a long way
Hi Vince! I have your book, but these videos are great to watch and good reminders. I think I'll put that Thoreau quote on a sign for the woodshed.
I found the first chapter of Walden a bit heavy, but after that it is great - and he'd be pleased that over 150 years later, very many of us still agree with him!
I split Oak, Elm, and Beech into flat slabs about the size of a paperback book and make sure it's stored with good airflow.
All ready to burn in 6 months!👍
Great if you can do that - and the wood stacks well and is stable. You are choosing the cream of log species!
Passionate about wood burning. Great to see
So glad to see new videos in your channel. Thank you so much for the content (and your book)!
Glad you liked the book, thank you.
Very informative. Looking forward to the next in your series.
Thank you - I have more ideas than I have the time to make them - but I will try!
Great video Vince, you are the fire wood king. Keep them coming.
I love everything about wood fires and I am glad that there are many of us!
Well said, Vince. I’m following this rule of thumb. This year I have put in a lot of work to try and get our wood ready for winter, next year. I am on the Southern Hemisphere, Australian and as you do, I love my wood heater. Thanks for sharing your great video.
Hi Wayne, drying correctly is so important. Whereabouts in Australia are you? I have been to Victoria a few times, absolutely loved it. Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Hi Vince, I’m in Tasmania. Another beautiful state as well. I’m so glad you like Victoria. Wayne
This was a brilliant video to watch thanks for posting
You are very welcome - it is such an important subject.
Hi Vince, just popped back to wish you and yours a Happy Christmas. Hope you had a successful Christmas Tree season. All my best
That's good of you, many thanks - all my best wishes to you and yours for a great 2025! We need it! Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thank you Vince, I sure do!
Many years ago I was given some Willow which I cut up and stacked, it sprouted the first year then dried out, when I burnt it, it was the best wood ever, it burnt clean bright and hot with no smoke and smelt wonderful.
Any dry logs are good logs. And the issue of willow spitting sparks is only a problem with open fires. It is one of the least dense species and my space is limited, hence it not being a favourite of mine. All best, Vince
Thanks for sharing, especially the comments about beech and making oak smaller to dry out earlier than a year.
Thanks - I have been out today getting beech branches, 2" - 3" diameter and burn a treat. Have a good winter, all best, Vince
What a wonderful video Vice, thank you. I burn mostly ash and oak here in Michigan. And i often find i have to cut the logs down to a smaller size, that i get delivered. I have 4 log stands. 2 that are for seasoning the wood, 1 ready to burn that i keep near the house,and the other is for pine for the fire pit for outside fires.
Thanks Mike, smaller logs dry more quickly, a good thing to know - ash and oak, a nice mix and keep your pine for outside. Have a good summer. Vince
Your literally the best thing on TH-cam 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 keep up the good work 👍🏻
I have more ideas than time - I am pleased you find it all interesting. Vince
Thank you
You are very welcome - it is such an interesting subject!
South Mississippi here. I split my wood almost to toothpick size. My Buck heater just performs so much better. I don’t mind having to reload a bit more often. Ive learned too to harvest my trees in the dead of winter. Regardless of species, there’s less sap. Seasons better. Awesome video!!
Hi Roger, many thanks. It is a simple truth to split smaller and dry quicker, I know some people don't need that. And the sap thing is like folk-lore here in England. We say, 'cut when the sap is down' - Although there is some research that shows it doesn't matter!? All best, Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVinceit doesn't matter because the sap doesn't go anywhere when it's cold, it just gets denser
I found a dead standing Elm a couple of years ago it was excellent to burn.
Great - I am not alone then in loving elm!
You seem very knowledgable vince. Appreciate the video. I have a load of larch rounds that I now know I have stacked poorly. Need to have a reshuffle. Appreciate the tips and info. 👌🏼
You are very welcome - there is always something new to learn with woodfires, and that's part of the fun. Larch is one of the best softwoods, I would split it fairly small to get it as dry as you can - I burned a lot of European larch last winter, spits a bit but is a good firewood.
Thank you for another excellent video. As usual, calming and informative.
Love the videos , keep up the uploads, throughout the winter.
got some Eucalyptus that needs cutting and drying. Thanks for the help.
Now that is a lovely firewood - some species are cross grained and can get difficult to split when dry. So, if it is not split now, I would get the axe out soon! Thanks for your comment. Vince
Nice to find an English man on the subject!
Nice to be here!
Thanks for this video and passing on your knowledge. This is a wonderful complement to your book. Looking forward to the next in the series.
I really enjoy making the videos - all a bit amateur I know, but fun and hopefully of some help.
Inspired by your video I ran my chainsaw along some small diameter oak logs, and then cross cut. Thank you for sharing your skills and experience.
It is a neat trick to help with drying smaller diameter logs, glad you found it helpful. All best, Vince
Well done, look forward to the next upload👍
I am about to start on the Christmas trees, so it might be a while! But thanks for your comment.
Really good video, very good information, thanks for taking the time to make this. And another subscriber!!🪵🔥
Thank you - I really do love all of this stuff and I am glad it shows and has some useful bits. All best, Vince
Thank you ! Enjoyed the video 👍🏻👋🏻
Yes it was fun - the wasp was worrying! I got stung on the nose a few weeks ago, so am a bit careful now.
TH-cam’s algorithm recommended this video. There was something about this video that seemed familiar, so I went to find the book I read last year!
The Wood Fire Handbook! It’s great to put a face to the author.
Glad to have found your channel
Thank you - I hope there were some bits in the book that were helpful!? All best wishes, Vince
Thanks vince for another great video, I’ve recently started chopping my own wood with an axe after watching your video on it I can’t believe how enjoyable it is lol
I love it . More videos please 🙏🏻
Even Einstein loved chopping firewood!
One of the simplest and excellent videos. I did not know the girdling of the log length wise would help the drying process for rounds. Been burning in my wood stove for years and this is the first I’ve heard of this technique. Excellent video. I also split my oak in 2” plank forms to dry it quicker. Elm is a pain to split with my 25 ton splitter, don’t get it much. Always wondered about the dry time.
I agree, as I had not seen ripping the bark lengthwise as a technique until I was visiting England's last brush handle factory in the 1990s. They needed even seasoning of long poles of 6" to 10" diameter. So the bark was left on, but ripped three times evenly around the pole. It struck me then as quicker and easier than splitting small roundwood firewood logs, and speeding up the drying time. The elm I get might be a bit unusual - it is slow grown in hedges and seems very dense. All best. Vince
As a kid we always cut dead elm. Now I know why. My splitter almost quit trying to split a 10" block with no knots. I turned it , flipped it multiple ways. It would not split. I've got a saw mill now and thats how I'll split my green elm, lol.
Great info , thanks 👍🏻
You are welcome - it is such an important subject. All best, Vince
great video, thanks for shearing all your knowledge.
You are welcome - after all, it was other people shared their knowledge with me all my life!
@@WoodFiresWithVince that is a great mindset. Some time ago I found your channel and about the same time my neighbor which is above 80 years old needed a help with splitting wood - I really enjoying it:-) I even bought my own splitting axe. Will ask my wife to buy my your book for xmass:-) All the best.
I'd never even thought about splitting logs into square or rectangular shapes. I had some what I think is Western Hemlock, cut down in the back garden, so I'm going to use the square method when I split that. Cheers!
Once you can be accurate with the splitting axe, it opens up new ideas for better woodstacks and drying - good luck with the W Hemlock.
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thanks very much! Have a great week!
Great video. You have a very good teaching style.
Thank you - it is a really important subject. All best, Vince
For the Aussie hardwoods i burn, 3 summers, split straight away and stacked in a woodshed. Some argue that outside in the rain and weather seasons the wood quicker. I believe its local climate dependant. My wood wont season and just rot/decay if left in the rain. Thanks for the video and great looking stacks👍
Thanks, and I totally agree - learn what works in your own area. Generally rain off, wind through is a good recipe. Big thing is to enjoy it all!
Alternatively to running your saw along the birch bark you can take your axe or hatchet to put a few cracks in it without splitting through.
Yes that would work too. I do find it quick after felling a tree to run the saw along two sides from about 5 inch diameter down. But the brush factory I got the idea from used three knives to put cracks in the bark as you suggest. All best. Vince
Thanks, Great advice! New subscriber!
Thanks Philip, have a good winter.
How do I recognise the difference in species?? 👍
That is a fairly difficult thing to do, I am thinking to make a video on log identification one day. But the most important thing is that a log is as dry as you can get it, whatever the species. All best wishes, Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince thanks buddy 👍
Very interesting on the splitting size and dry time of oak. Next winter will be my first time burning it, if it measures 20% or lower. I'm liking the idea of smaller splits for drying but also fitting the maximum amount of wood in the woodstove for longer burn times. Here in Oregon I mainly burn alder, Douglas fir, and hemlock. Looking forward to burning red oak and maple the next few winters.. Also interested to see how much better old growth Douglas fir with thick bark burns/heats!
I have always understood that, pound for pound, bark has more heat energy than the wood itself. Your red oak should dry a little quicker than the English oak I am splitting and stacking - but the rule 'splitting smaller speeds drying' still applies of course. Good luck with it all. Vince
you voice is a great gift! Have you done any recorded reading?
No I haven't - but what a lovely idea! Many thanks, Vince
Hi Vince, great video. How do you fell the trees/what permissions do you need to do this? Thanks
Hi David, In the UK it is a bit complicated as it depends on whether the land or trees is/are designated, how much you want to fell and what it is for - own use or sale. The best thing would be to talk to the Government's forestry department and get local guidance. Hope it works out ok. All best. Vince
Good list of "well, it depends on..." s. Imo, the 2 year rule comes into play from folks who A) like BIG horkin' chunks- like 4-6" thick, and B) dry outside in stacks, where the wood is exposed to rain.
Most important: GET IT OFF THE GROUND!!! Oak, especially- that wood is like a sponge, and will soak up groundwater until it's even wetter than it was green...
The best advice, is plan ahead. Start cutting next year's (or better yet, the year after that) now. There really is no substitute for time.
Personally, My all around favorites for burning are: Ash; Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, Hickory, and Honey Locust. Close behind are oak, beech, and Norway Maple (a decent substitute for sugar) Pine, white birch, yellow poplar, and soft maple for campfires. Cherry and Apple for grilling. That's what's readily available to me, either free or from sellers. I cook with wood, and burn recreationally rather than heat. I'd love a woodstove, but don't have one...
I agree totally. If you want big chunks, store it for years - but beginners often get the idea that all firewood takes that long. Rain off and air through, and as you say, particularly underneath. Great woods you have in your area. Thanks for your thoughts.
In Ohio USA we have great wood to choose from.
Can you make me a list of the best to worst wood to use in my non-catalytic wood stove? Thanks
@@timgiles9413 Hi Tim, That is a big question! When I was writing, The Wood Fire Handbook, I relied heavily on American research as good UK/European can be a bit scarce. I can't find the US products summary of best to worst firewoods - but this link seems pretty good. www.almanac.com/content/best-firewood-heat-values-wood-burning-tips . . . it's not come into this reply as a hot link, sorry!
Thank you for your list :)
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thank you :)
Should I stack it under a wood shed strait away ? Or let it air out in the open for a bit ?
Hello, that would depend on how dry your climate is - but in general, I would say get it split, and stacked under cover. Rain off, air through, works in most places. Best wishes, and have a good winter. Vince
Ya thats what I’m thinking is necessary to keep the wood dry right away . I cut some ash in October , stacked it and left it out in the
open . Now it has lots of greenish black spot mould on it . I see tones of fire wood just in the middle of a field on farms here in southern Ontario so I thought it was ok .
Thank you
Mike
Honestly brilliant video 👍🏻
For drying tool handle lumber I leave the bark on so it slows drying and helps prevent cracking. Bark definitely keeps some moisture in.
I paint the ends and split it, to relieve the radial versus tangential stress in shrinkage.
Leaving the bark on a split piece is okay, but not splitting it is risky.
I dropped an elm last autumn and yesterday tried to split it with my Fiskars axe. The axe either bounced off or got stuck. I've never known anything like it. Just bought a maul online, but I may have to cut the logs even smaller. Tough stuff.
I had the same - cut some elm to about 10 inches, my Fiskars X27 wouldn't even touch it. So I halved the logs to about 5 inches and it still wouldn't split them. The best I could do was to 'peel' them smaller by taking chunks from around the outside. Amazing wood. All best Vince
Thanks for another fabulous video. Brilliant to see over 1000 subscribers. I have been trying to get people to sub since I found you at about 980. Great content and relaxing.
Thanks for helping - with threats of power outages this winter a wood fire is a real blessing.
The best trick to seasoning firewood is get three years ahead, that's what i do .
That is the 'Holy Grail' - but only for those with the space to store it all! All best. Vince
I moved to the Carolinas & hurricane Helene took down several 150 ft tall Eastern pine trees, 32" diam. People say I can't burn pine in a wood stove but people that don't have any other wood, burn it. Suggestions?
My understanding is that in order to accurately test firewood for moisture, you have to test the inside of a split, not the ends. I have always heard that wood that is still in rounds does begin to season until it is split.
I totally agree. Splitting logs helps enormously with drying - you might be interested in the video on how to check firewood with a moisture meter. Have a good winter. All best. Vince
Wonderful. Thanks
I appreciate your channel, I am 68 years old and have some arthritis in my hands and I’m looking for the best way to split kindling because I have to do it regularly and I just found out about FROE. Can you recommend where to get one and what size I should get.?
I think I got my froe from a blacksmith online. And I would look for a blade about 10 inches. It might be more difficult finding a wooden mallet or beetle that is comfortable to work with. But as you say, if an axe is out for you now then this might be just right for your kindling. Good luck with finding what you need. Vince
Fantastic channel and great advice! I would be interested to know how you rate seasoning firewood out in the open (uncovered) compared to the more traditional (in the UK) covered stacks. It seems to be far more common on the continent and elsewhere to just stack firewood out in the open and fully exposed to the elements so why wouldn't it work in the UK, is our climate too damp? I am considering trying it but being in Yorkshire I am a little sceptical😂
Morning Jon, yes I have noticed in France, Greece and central Europe that split firewood can be left out, often still in the woodland between trees. But, we don't have their summer - not yet anyway. So I would always leave the sides completely open, but put a basic roof on, which does need to be slightly above the logs for airflow. I would stay with the rule, air through- rain off. All best. Vince
How can I dry wood if my area in winter is full of dew from morning to night and repeat? Actually I have the wood pilled in a kind of porch well ventilated, but seems not enough.
Thanks for the video and the nice tips!
Very little drying of logs happens in winter - it is mostly a spring, summer, autumn thing. But it simply is the logs drying down to the ambient moisture content of where they are stored. So as you say, if your area is sodden wet all day every day in winter, the logs can't dry much. The porch sounds good though. Good luck with it all, Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Let me do a stupid question...If I dry wood on summer...and store it in a cold/wet porch with humidity 70-90%...Will it remain dry or it will absorb moisture again. I have small oak/pine logs mostly.
Thanks for the fast reply, you are very kind.
@@gargos669 It's not a stupid question at all! I think the answer is that your summer dry logs will slowly reabsorb moisture through the winter. But with rain off and wind through them the dry logs should last through the winter only slowly gaining moisture. There is not much more you can do. Vince
I do a bit of camping in the summer and like to stock up on my firewood for my trips away. I do chop the wood up into similar piece's you have . I store them in the garage, is that okay to do ?
The big thing is to have some airflow, particularly if the wood is damp when first stored. I would say only gather dry wood or store it under cover outside until it is dry - and then it is fine to store in a dry garage for as long as you like. There is the consideration of bringing insects into your garage. I find elm to be so full of woodworm I do not bring it to the house until I am going to burn it. Also of course, firewood for camping does not need to be as dry as 'house wood' as there is no issue with damaging a chimney or flue. Enjoy your trips away - all best wishes. Vince
I have a spare greenhouse ( I grow enough to eat and freeze, and I was given the greenhouse) .
I put all my split logs in the greenhouse for a year, am I doing the right thing ?
I would say get a moisture meter and learn when your logs are ready to burn - my guess is that the logs don't need a year! Of course it does depend where you live too. A big deal is that it is easy to get logs extra dry in a 'solar kiln' - but unless they are for immediate use, where do you then store them? At least you have a green house to use - a great asset! All best, Vince
Hi, perhaps I've just missed the info but what is the ground like in your shed?
Hi, it is a concrete base - then a pallet under and behind the wood-stack. I have had an earth base in the past and it dried out fine. But I did have a shallow cut-off drain to stop any water. All best. Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Good to know, thanks!
Do you have any advice on how to fire drywood?
Of course perhaps the first point is it matters hugely what the local climate is.
I have burnt many cords of "wet" wood. I like it, it burns longer but not so hot. I save those pieces for the overnight. I clean my own chimney so I know how to keep an eye on it and it's not a big job at all.
Interesting, I guess any system that works for the owner is valid. You are perhaps making a trade that you are happy with - to lose potential heat for the convenience of not drying the logs - plus, as you say, damp wood burns slower as it first has to drive off all the moisture. When I first worked in the woods the men would burn just about anything they could get - they were not fussy about maximising heat from their logs. And, unbelievably to the modern world, many regularly cleaned their chimneys by setting fire to them. They showed me how to push a load of newspaper up the chimney to get it going! In the modern smoke-averse world few people with stoves opt for these methods - in fact, wet wood is mostly illegal to sell now in the uk. Have a good winter. All best, Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince You are a very wise man, thank you!
Easier to chop when it’s seasoned, easier to season when it’s chopped!😅
Thank you! I have not heard that before, and certainly it has a nice ring to it. But, being a fuss-pot, I would note that the second part is certainly true. The first bit is questionable as many firewood species split easier when they are 'green'. I am not normally such a misery! Thank you again for your cheerful comment. Vince
We dry split Douglas fir and maple in 4 foot rows cross wind to the low RH summer winds. Piles like yours would take more than 2 years to dry to less than 20 % moisture. I'm 84 years old and. getting impatient by the day in our marine climate
Interesting - we can only work with what we have. I have friends living on a mountain in south west Scotland, where the climate so damp and the summer so short, drying logs to a state where they will readily burn is nearly impossible some years. What are RH summer winds?
I put a Dutch elm through my wood stove. I have to agree with your assessment it's the caviar of wood. I have no use for caviar in any form. I dried it thoroughly and found it to be unexceptional for heat, horrible to split and smelled bad burning. If I get more you can have it.
Interesting! There are dozens of different elm tree species. I am burning hedge-grown English elm which is superb. But I note what you say, that all elms are not equal - and will avoid your Dutch elm! It is interesting that there is such a difference though - although being difficult to split is the same. Thanks for your comment. Vince
Can damp-rid dry firewood?
I don't know, dehumidifiers in a closed space certainly work.
My man loves his wood like I love my burgers.
Thanks Cesar, I do love a wood-fire cooked burger too!
It's a lot of work but if the bark is removed altogether, the wood dries much faster. Smash the bark with the back of the axe or maybe use a small jack hammer with a compacting foot on it. The wood also burns better without bark on it.
Agreed - but that is a lot of work! There is also the subtlety that the bark generally has slightly more heat energy than pure wood, - weight for weight. And against that the bark creates far more wood ash, weight for weight. But as you suggest, drying the logs is king and anything to get wood to dry well and quickly is helpful. Thanks for you thoughts. All best, Vince
Great vid. Liked abs sub’d. Here in South Carolina
Thank you - have a great winter.
try oak takes just as long to dry or try ash burns almost as long and dries fast usually 6 to 12 months
The air is drier in CA. I would say oak seasons at an inch a MONTH, not a year
That may well be true, partly the air as you say, and partly the species of oak you have in CA
@@WoodFiresWithVince mostly Live Oak in my area 😉
After this conversation I will try and look up the relative density of the English oak and the American oaks - this is why I enjoy living with woodfires, you never stop learning!
Nice to see some of the myths gently busted. I like your birch wood too. I like to burn birch, but for the last 5 years I have burned almost entirely hazel as I'm involved with restoring 50+ year derelict hazel coppice in an ancient woodland with a huge (sika and roe) deer population. 'Cos I'm keen on woodland ecology and I have no central heating.
Hazel is under-regarded as fuelwood, possibly because it is rare in big lumps. The stuff I'm cutting is rarely bigger than 8" diameter and 20 to 30' of usable length. Some of the stools are huge. I knock it over before the end of March (with a following wind) and cut into 5's and stack in a cord under the eaves of the wood where it's breezy. Biggest diameter bits get striped, usually once. End of the summer before the weather breaks (that's the plan) it gets transported home and logged in a brake, 10 or so lengths at a time. Only the very biggest bits get split once. Tops get turned into dead hedges to keep Bambi from the regrowth with directional felling to reduce moving the tops as much as possible. Tenax Dorset gates allow access.
Cut logs are stacked in a wooden store with 1-way vapour barrier in the walls and open-fronted with overhang and gutter to the north. By November, it's ready to burn and burns hot and clean. A dense wood, the log lengths are clean and pale with no checking and rare shrinkage cracks, except on the cord length ends. Bark is usually tight.
If I can't get it extracted (I miss the weather window) it sits in the cord until the next summer, by which time it is just starting to spalt.
If you're interested in what I'm doing, this link will get you to a vid: th-cam.com/video/LnXjrqp3x5Y/w-d-xo.html If you think putting a link to one of my posts is taking a liberty, knock this comment off.
Thanks for posting and I look forward to viewing more of your stuff.
This all sounds really interesting - what a lovely place to work. I have seen dead hedges fail to keep deer out many times, but usually it is the Muntjac that get in first. I get the feeling you will not let yours fail! I am starting to cut my firewood for next winter tomorrow, before the sap rises, I am going to do a lot more chain saw 'stripes' to save splitting the smaller logs from now on. And your link is welcome. All best Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thanks, Vince. I have also seen dead hedges fail and a lot of effort put in trying to 'protect' individual stools with brash. Usually a waste of time, although several 'woodland managers' have said that as long as the stools get away eventually, a bit of deer damage doesn't matter from a nature conservation point of view... Yes, the wood is lovely. There's traffic noise, but when I'm up there it is very rare to see anyone else and the ground flora is very good especially where the deer can't get. Sika will graze just as much as browse.... Good luck with the firewood cutting. Everything around here is running with water at the moment.
@@anemone104 Hello, I can't believe that the sap is up already! 16th Jan! Oh well, so be it. I have been a woodland manager and would offer one point - which I think you will already know. You mention in your video wanting the coppice to be commercial - to ensure its longevity as woodland. People whose opinion I trust have told me that commercial hazel needs to grow straight - if to be good for cleft hurdles and thatching spars, etc. So protecting the stools with brash, and any deer damage, may not matter from a conservation point of view - as some 'managers' have told you, but matters hugely when people come to cut and use the rods . . . I think you probably know this, but thought worth a mention if for nothing else than to reinforce your opinion! Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Thanks for the reply - good to compare notes: One stool in the wood I work in showed risen sap on the 6th of Jan. And around a big oak standard and under the leaf litter bluebells were starting to poke their heads up. A bit disquieting.
I totally agree about 'commercial' hazel coppice - to be viable commercially, hazel must be straight, the right diameter and there must be sufficient density (kind of follows), which is why I have been trying to layer in new hazels. Alas, even given the 'holy grail' of grade 1 coppice, it is difficult to make a living wage. Given sub-optimal form and density of stems, things get more difficult.
Alas, in my experience the need to manage hazel for quality and density of standing crop is often disregarded as being 'too difficult' or 'not worth it'.
@@anemone104 Sad, but true - good talking to you - I was very involved in all this back in the 1990s and really enjoyed it.
My pet peeve is when people spread the idea that you should leave it out in a pile in the weather, so it turns darker and looks old.
I know that you can dry wood and still have it look like lumber, without all the oxidation and small splits and fungus.
Dry is dry, it doesn't help to expose it to the weather out in a field.
I think this is a story that firewood processors use to explain why they have a mountain of wood out in the snow, but it's because they didn't have the energy to split and stack it in time.
I agree - the key thing is rain off and air through, and the wood being properly dry is so very important.
Great stuff. I find that myboak split at about 5" or smaller dries in less than a year. I do have Great drying conditions though. I also find smaller splits burn better and give me norw heat than large smoldering chuncks
Agreed - I once visited a really old person who had always used and cooked on a wood-fired range. It was interesting that all of the wood she used was split to no more than about 3 inches. She said it burned better and gave a more even heat than bigger logs. Vince
The same maple log size as your elm log will burn twice as long and will produce twice as much heat. But you have to dry it for 20+ months.
I wish I had your maple around here then - sounds excellent.
I never found Elm to burn very hot. Burns a long time, but not very hot. Most BTU ratings have it on the low end of hardwoods.
Interesting point. I think what is happening here is that big old fully grown elm are exactly as you describe - but we hardly get them in England any more after Dutch Elm disease. And the western Wych elm is less dense. But the English elm suckers that grow in hedgerows, and then die when about 4 to 5 inch diameter, I find are very dense and excellent firewood. All best. Vince
@@WoodFiresWithVince Interesting point. I have lots of elm and I hate splitting it with my axe or with a gas powered splitter! Miserable work when they are 14" plus rounds.
No Sugar Maple? I find it the best firewood.
Sadly Sugar Maple is virtually unknown in the UK. It was not planted in our woodland or forests, just an occasional tree in gardens and arboretums.
I just bought a shed load of logs, they seem to be about 35%. Oh well.
Good luck getting the logs to a useable mc - split smaller, lots of airflow, etc . . . I hope they didn't tell you they were 'ready to burn'?
Large wood lasts longer all that little stuff you have burns very quickly if yo need your home 80 F and hotter theres something wrong with you? 12 " and up sugar maple / oak off the stump in summer is DRY for the the winter AFTER it gets to 40 F below here burn little stuff like that you will be up 4 times a night sleeping at 60 /65 F is common sense if your wood heater wont keep youwarm yiu need a bigger heater/ better insulation/ common sense people selling firewood dont want you to use LESS wood lol
It is interesting and perhaps the most important thing that we all need to find what suits our own home and climate. I have gone for massive insulation and small fires and it's good to hear that you too have a system that works for you. All best, Vince
Search for dead hardwood. Cut it down. Split it. Stack it. Done.
You forgot one important factor... the SIZE of your wood stove.
My wood stove takes 2ft. logs... that's 24 inches.
If I burned small crap like yours it would burn up in less than 2 hours
With big logs It can burn 4-5 hours, and the stored heat in my house lasts another
2-3 hours.
The principals of drying are the same, and dry logs are more efficient - even with the big crap! All you say is fine and true, the logs will just take longer to season.
@@WoodFiresWithVince
Wrong: That's because I can store my entire years supply of firewood in the room where my woodstove is.
I like to call it the furnace room. The wood stove acts as a kiln and dries out the wood in no time while at the same time humidifying the rest of my 2-story house.
@@indrekkpringi Good for you
Sorry but that is a back log fml. Wtf 😂
Use paper towels
15 seconds into the video and it was apparent it's just another waste of time. Why do folks on TH-cam portend they are the next widescreen Hollywood producer. Just present the process. Takes 3-4 minutes.
thank you