He doesn't manually actuate the new runners, but later at the end of the video he does use the scan tool to send a manual command to actuate the runners and they function normally.
I was thinking the same thing! It would be nice to see the guts of the manifold to see if he could determine the cause because I’m sure this is a common problem in these trucks. Just like with the fuel system in these trucks and all the gremlins that cause issues there. I am currently unable to pass emissions, code I got was for fuel pressure sensor low. P108C I believe… replaced it and engine light disappeared only to come back on at exactly the one week mark!
Since the invention of 3D printers, the parts to fix it might be available. As a general rule, they like to sell large expensive assemblies rather than small cheap parts.
I would not have been able to resist trying to manually actuate the new one to see if it moves like the old one as soon as it was unboxed… just to see.
The dealer used to be the place to go for the highest knowledge tech in a particular brand. So many dealers have become corporate that they've fallen victim to corporate think when it comes to labor. Corporate think says labor is a cost that can be cut to improve profits. This is why I left my dealership job after 4 years. My service manager refused to give me a raise after 4 years. I'm a diagnostician. I usually got other tech's comebacks. I refuse to replace a part until I've confirmed the fault. I was undoubtedly replaced with a lower paid parts swapper. Times have changed. The knowledgeable techs are mostly at independent shops now. Like you, I now have my own shop.
@crabmansteve6844 I feel sorry for you, that's just to bad, I guess that's why they call you crabmansteve, 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 You walked right into that one... Brilliant!
You sound like the tool and die maker who taught me my trade during my last years in training. He always said if you were not learning something new every day you were not paying attention.
I run a couple of those hemis when I own a pair of Chrysler 300s. I cannot for the life of me understand why people insist on putting those copper core spark plugs in that motor. Put iridium plugs in that engine it responds wonderfully. Not only does it have better throttle response, it gets considerably better fuel mileage
What mileage improvements did you see? I’ve got a 2022 1500 HEMI and the best tank of gas I’ve gotten was 23.25 mpg. It would be cool to improve on that.
I have seen the sign, the other sign. You should have investigated what the full movement of the valves are to visually confirm your hypothesis before install.
Master mechanic are you, got a business have you, 30 years plus experience working on dodge engines? Got to love keyboard experts, they can fix anything.
I 100% would have manually checked the new one to make sure it opens further than the original. If it doesn't it's being replaced for no reason other than "I think it should turn further" why wouldn't you test the new one to make sure you are correct.
This comment has been made by many; it is not a question of your expertise rather one of logistics. On the actuator, it would have been a nice to see the difference of the turn radius compared to the new part. Simply, was it a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, to confirm a real kill; even though the electronics showed it to be so. Thanks for the open mind.
With a certain amount of sarcasm, Thanks for function checking the flapper mechanism before installing the new manifold. It would have been nice to share in your assurance the part was the correct one to replace. BTW. LOVE your site and my Very Best Wishes to you, Lauren and the mini-mechanics.
If only you had used the scanner commands on the old one first, would definitely show a difference. Like you said it was a learning experience, thanks for the class 😅. Now, that said, as you see, we all demand autopsy!! Of old one. 😉🙃✌
Flash Ray, they call that flash,the material causing you issue with that oil cap, part of the molding process,it allows air bubbles and impurities to be forced out of the part through gats and relief during the molding process. An essential part and process of molding things. And it should have been removed long before the part got to you. Love your videos brother.
Wish I would have had this video a month ago, could have prevented my buddy from trading off his 2014 Ram with the same issue! Great video as always Ray!!!
The "plastic stuff" that's in the way of the oil cap... The term you need is "flash" in the plastics world, it's usually where the mold isn't tight enough together and excess plastic seeps out. At the factory an operator would typically use a swivel knife that clean that up before shipping out.
Vibration welded is the correct automotive manufacturing term. Quite an interesting back story on the history of how hollow parts have been molded. But I save you that long read lol Basically the modern method is they make the two halves, then another machine vibrates the top half so fast and minutely, that the friction melts the plastic and creates an air tight weld. If you touch the vibrating machine plate, it's kind of a fuzzy tingling feeling.
The movement is minimal in both the new and old manifolds, however the flappers in the new manifold are oriented with the large part inside the manifold.
Glad there're mechanic's like you who care but I hate all the sensors & crap on our engines today. I've got a Chevy w/ a 5.7L engine(95 Silverado) and that's one of the last years prior to the engines getting too many sensors & stuff. Kudo's for doing the job & I'd bring mine to you if I could break it...... she just wants to run. I'm happy about that & thanks for the video, peace
Hey Ray, you should look into cotton mesh gloves that go on before your rubber work gloves. I work in an optical laboratory that makes lenses for glasses, and we have to wear cotton mesh gloves as PPE under our rubber outer gloves. They save your hand from damage big time. Not only do they wick away moisture, but they also protect your hands from being cut or poked so easily.
There are gloves that are cut resistant. Grainger has them along with Amazon. There are several grades of resistance. A1 gloves are the least, but are good for what you do. They will soak up fluids but they have a slight coating that helps with grip. Used them when handling hazmat (oils, water, solvents).
Yup! I had an '85 Dodge Diplomat. I spent so much time futzing with it. Loved the car and I ran it for years and 200K+ miles. But I felt like I knew every nut and bolt personally! LOL
Meh not 100% true it help but not needed Mopar is super simple to work on. I would take Mopar in my shop all day an call it cake work lol. But I personally specialize in jeep.
nice work, although i feel bad, that you didn't fill us on state of that hole (front left thread) or the price of manifold also, showing actuation of the motor itself and new valves with pliers prior to installation would be nice step - but i must say it was keeping me on my toes ;)
Those intake manifold flaps were very common to fail on the Hemis when I worked at Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep & Ram. They even failed on many Ford Focus with the 2.0 as well.
Grew up working on Mopar products mostly and still driving them...50 years later. Never had the interest in the muscle cars. I've spent time driving a lot of vehicles but still like Jeep/Ram most of all. I had a fair share of 318s and slant 6's. Both great engines. The little 4 cyl engine Jeep and AMC used was another engine that was easy to own. Never had issues with them.
The intake runner flappers are an issue on every Mopar engine that has them. Hemis, 3.5 & 4.0 liter V6s found in the Magnum/300/Charger/Pacifica.......
I don't know how many pcm connectors on Chrysler products have this same issue direct from the factory. First one I ran into thought the customer was monkeying around with the connector but later changed my thought as a factory install issue. Second one was on a jeep that had less than 20k miles and I doubt the old lady messed with it. As for one of the last ones I messed with, it was on a new delivery that had idle issues and barely made it off the truck and was due to poor connection to the pcm.
My 2014 Ram had the same problem with the PCM connectors! It was like it was glued together, but in reality the plastic got really brittle, most of my coil connectors, the tabs just broke off! Dodge Quality!😊😂
AWESOME!! So satisfying, seeing you diagnose, go step by step, no guessing!! Find the problem and fix the problem. Then you don't just assume it's working as designed, you go in and watch it work!! Thank you for the video. Have a great day and a better tomorrow for all your tomorrow's to come..
One thing that I learned back in 2014 is that you cannot trust a moped master technician to be able to troubleshoot his way out of a wet paper bag. My daughter had a Town and Country Touring that was in the shop more than it was on the road. I called the service department, from Ireland, after the sixth time, told them what to change, and the van finally stopped experiencing the issue she had experienced. Needless to say, she sold the van and will no longer own the aptly-named dodge products
@@wayneessar7489 moped is what I refer to as chrysler, the appropriately named product referred to as a dodge, and the products formerly produced and sold under the name plymouth. A vespa, in my opinion, has more value, worth and purpose than a mopar. Mercedes was actually smart to sell mopar to Fix It Again Tomorrow (Fiat). During the assembly, you did not see Ray struggle with the installation of the oil cap? That is the perfect example of mopar quality. Also, let's not forget that the quality of their "technicians" is equal to that of the product. The individual repairing the truck at the dealership had the part in his hands, just as Ray did. He didn't perform a simple task, and check the valves; he simply replaced the actuator. The first mistake my daughter made was to purchase that "quality" automobile.
It’s not the Mopar technicians’ diagnosis to the issue, rather it’s Stellantis ordering the technician what to repair, and what parts to apply. This process applies to both warranty and non-warranty repairs. This isn’t the days of Chrysler LLC or FCA, in where common sense ruled the day.
Sry to hear that in your area. The master tec at my local deal has become friends with me due to me asking him 1000s of questions an has even showed me a few tips an tricks. Then offered me a job but I'm running my own shop an don't want to close to work for a dealership.
@@briankiefer856 if you've got the part out of the vehicle (how else can you change that actuator?) why wouldn't you check to see if the valve shaft turned fully? A reasonable technician would do that, and they should know what the throw is on that shaft, don't you think? It has nothing to do with what the company requires of the technician, especially since it only takes a few seconds, and it's common sense. I think the last part is where the problem lies.
Throttle position is probably considered, but mostly RPM. At some point, switches from long runners (tubes), which help low end torque, to short runners, which help high end power. This system is probably unavoidable, there's no other way to get good power all the way across the rpm band.
Yep, been in play for some time. 1990s-era Ford/Mazda 1.8L and 2.5L V6 had 'em to vary intake runner length for various RPM bands. My '99 Ford Contour SVT had 'em and you could tell when they'd start getting sticky as you'd lose the higher-end power and the gratifying intake sounds when they didn't open properly.
the original plugs on a 2019 from factory are champions, manual says to change out every 30,000 miles. probably why they went to ngk. i switched to iridium tipped in my 2019 ram with the 5.7. changing out champions every 30,000 miles is nuts.
It's amazing how much more complicated manufacturers will make things to gain 20 ft lbs of torque. I fix these systems from Ford and Chrysler too much. Nice work.
It looks really helpful to have the dealership's diag steps so clearly written out. A lot better than, "They told me they replaced some intake-side parts."
My thinking is that they didn't want to throw the tech under the bus... cynical me thinks they know they're not capable and covering them. on the other side they genuinely didn't know and didn't want someone coming back to them with a bill for something they charged for
Curios if you bled fuel pressure prior to removing the fuel pressure sensor from fuel rail. I had to replace mine, and that one looks to be original and will eventually need to be replaced, but why I ask is because when I removed mine I had a lot more fuel come rushing out.
I know it’s about trigger control but watching you drive those screws into plastic with an impact caused me to wince with each one. SO easy to strip them.
I am just obstinate to use a Dremel tool to take the manifold apart to see if I could fix it. I really don't like unfixable parts. Hope you tear it apart to see what the problem is.
I remember having issues with Mercedes intakes having similar issues. But that wasn’t the only issue their intakes had. They put a vacuum hose (not plastic port) on the bottom that would degrade over. The only fix was to replace the intake. Tried fixing one but didn’t work.
The dealer "tech" said that it "past" test, so the test was in the past and it really didn't pass the test. I hope the dealer uses this video for training.
I wanted to see you manually actuate the new intake runners to compare the difference.
He doesn't manually actuate the new runners, but later at the end of the video he does use the scan tool to send a manual command to actuate the runners and they function normally.
Yeah I thought he would to compare
You always have to remind yourself that this a niche entertainment channel too.
I was waiting for that too and disappointed
At the dealer it passed the runner test so I was hoping to see the runners operated manually as well.
Who else wants an autopsy on the old intake manifold?
I did too... I'm hoping he may still do it.
I was thinking the same thing! It would be nice to see the guts of the manifold to see if he could determine the cause because I’m sure this is a common problem in these trucks. Just like with the fuel system in these trucks and all the gremlins that cause issues there. I am currently unable to pass emissions, code I got was for fuel pressure sensor low. P108C I believe… replaced it and engine light disappeared only to come back on at exactly the one week mark!
I would love this, but I bet he has to send it back for a core charge.
@@DanielGallowayR It could never have a core charge, nothing to rebuild if you can't open it.
Yes please
Ray, as others have stated, an autopsy of the old intake would be interesting. I vote yes for an intake autopsy video!
Since the invention of 3D printers, the parts to fix it might be available. As a general rule, they like to sell large expensive assemblies rather than small cheap parts.
@@russellstyles5381he did mention they’re not serviceable..
I would not have been able to resist trying to manually actuate the new one to see if it moves like the old one as soon as it was unboxed… just to see.
Same
never would have expected plastic engine parts to fail, shocking
Aren't you going to autopsy the old manifold.....I was waiting for that !
Same here
Would have been nice to see you cut the old intake in half to see exactly what the problem was
Or even show if the new unit moves more manually.
The new valves move exactly the same distance as the old ones did.😂 Granted there could have been a broken one we did not see!
The dealer used to be the place to go for the highest knowledge tech in a particular brand. So many dealers have become corporate that they've fallen victim to corporate think when it comes to labor. Corporate think says labor is a cost that can be cut to improve profits. This is why I left my dealership job after 4 years. My service manager refused to give me a raise after 4 years. I'm a diagnostician. I usually got other tech's comebacks. I refuse to replace a part until I've confirmed the fault. I was undoubtedly replaced with a lower paid parts swapper. Times have changed. The knowledgeable techs are mostly at independent shops now. Like you, I now have my own shop.
They are all parts swapper...
@@MagaTBTF I swapped parts with ya mom a few times
@crabmansteve6844 I feel sorry for you, that's just to bad, I guess that's why they call you crabmansteve, 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 You walked right into that one... Brilliant!
Techs are no longer called "repairmen".....they are now called "replacemen".
@@jaypauling793 Depends on the tech. You bring a car in with a random misfire, how do I know what to replace?
You aren't living if you're not learning. Goal in life is to learn something new everyday. Your channel helps us to accomplish this!
Some days two things!
You sound like the tool and die maker who taught me my trade during my last years in training. He always said if you were not learning something new every day you were not paying attention.
You did not verify the new manifold had more movement on the runners when manually moved.
That is so annoying.
I wish you would have shown how the new flapper valves moved, compared to the old ones
I would have thought that this was a good case to use the bore scope camera rather than trying to use a mirror.
Yes.
The mirror was easier, simpler, and effective.
@@markanderson2904 Not really. The mirror wasn't effective at all. With a borescope you could actually verify the broken part, if any.
@@Lou-fm2kk It was certainly effective. He saw the problem using the mirror.
I would also like to see a autopsy on a old old intake manifold. Ray fixed another engine that no one could. Another great video.
I run a couple of those hemis when I own a pair of Chrysler 300s. I cannot for the life of me understand why people insist on putting those copper core spark plugs in that motor. Put iridium plugs in that engine it responds wonderfully. Not only does it have better throttle response, it gets considerably better fuel mileage
People are cheap asses
My ‘07 1500/5.7 came with Champion copper OEM. Various forums on the ‘net say Iridiums and Platinums don’t work well in this engine.
What mileage improvements did you see? I’ve got a 2022 1500 HEMI and the best tank of gas I’ve gotten was 23.25 mpg. It would be cool to improve on that.
I have seen the sign, the other sign. You should have investigated what the full movement of the valves are to visually confirm your hypothesis before install.
Ray I would have checked the operation of that back lever before assembly
Master mechanic are you, got a business have you, 30 years plus experience working on dodge engines? Got to love keyboard experts, they can fix anything.
I 100% would have manually checked the new one to make sure it opens further than the original. If it doesn't it's being replaced for no reason other than "I think it should turn further" why wouldn't you test the new one to make sure you are correct.
And at the end when he checked with the mirror, guess what. They moved the exact same amount.
@@karina833quit being hostile. Most of us who have been out are technicians would check it first, to verify that really is the problem
@@karina833I guess 30 years of doing grunt work does not teach you common sense.
I would have liked to see how much travel there is on the runner flaps assembly
This comment has been made by many; it is not a question of your expertise rather one of logistics. On the actuator, it would have been a nice to see the difference of the turn radius compared to the new part. Simply, was it a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, to confirm a real kill; even though the electronics showed it to be so. Thanks for the open mind.
With a certain amount of sarcasm, Thanks for function checking the flapper mechanism before installing the new manifold. It would have been nice to share in your assurance the part was the correct one to replace. BTW. LOVE your site and my Very Best Wishes to you, Lauren and the mini-mechanics.
Exactly!
Did you see how much the flappers in the new intake manifold moved, if so, was there more movement noted on the new one?
If only you had used the scanner commands on the old one first, would definitely show a difference. Like you said it was a learning experience, thanks for the class 😅. Now, that said, as you see, we all demand autopsy!! Of old one. 😉🙃✌
I also wanted to see manual activation of a parts cannon approach new component. haha
Hey Ray, I'm voting yes for the autopsy as well. Cheers!
I am surprised you didn't check the action on that flapper valve prior to installing parts on it, to verify your diagnosis.
Flash Ray, they call that flash,the material causing you issue with that oil cap, part of the molding process,it allows air bubbles and impurities to be forced out of the part through gats and relief during the molding process. An essential part and process of molding things. And it should have been removed long before the part got to you. Love your videos brother.
I wish you would’ve showed us on the new throttlebody how those flapper valves work inside
Wish I would have had this video a month ago, could have prevented my buddy from trading off his 2014 Ram with the same issue! Great video as always Ray!!!
go to the dealer lot where tradedin and low ball that truck as they probably do not have time to fix. So they want to off load it.😁
He's better off without it.
@@danwhitaker9168 Yeah no doubt, wish I could have saved him some cash though.
@@boelensds Wish I could, was bought that afternoon. It was a damn nice truck too.
Rainman. Whatever they are paying you, they need to raise it. Give this man an increase.
"they" is him. he owns the place lol.
edit: he owns the business, not the building.
Ray is his own boss...
@@daemonhat...he's working on getting his own shop I think. Right? I think he said that.
@@deplorablelibertarian it is his shop, he owns it
@@deplorablelibertarian yeah, he made mention of it a few videos ago
Looks like the manifold cost $340 so, stealership part cost is probably $750
I will lose sleep over the disappointment of not seeing the new runner be manually operated to confirm correct function.
The "plastic stuff" that's in the way of the oil cap... The term you need is "flash" in the plastics world, it's usually where the mold isn't tight enough together and excess plastic seeps out. At the factory an operator would typically use a swivel knife that clean that up before shipping out.
My 2000 Toyota has the same intake manifold vacuum actuator inside of it made of metal, not plastic. It still works after 24 years of use.
Vibration welded is the correct automotive manufacturing term.
Quite an interesting back story on the history of how hollow parts have been molded.
But I save you that long read lol
Basically the modern method is they make the two halves, then another machine vibrates the top half so fast and minutely, that the friction melts the plastic and creates an air tight weld.
If you touch the vibrating machine plate, it's kind of a fuzzy tingling feeling.
The movement is minimal in both the new and old manifolds, however the flappers in the new manifold are oriented with the large part inside the manifold.
I like your saying I love my job I’ll do it twice.
Just me who thought that the new runner valves opened about as much as the old ones?
Yeah, same here. The new flappers looked to be opening just about the same amount as the "failed" unit.
Ray fixed what the dealer couldn't!
2016 RAM 1500 with 187000 miles no issues, my plugs are original which I need to change. They are a little over due.
Hey Ray, you got the screws mixed up. That yellow part that attaches the engine cover belongs on the other side, up front. 😀
I scrolled down the comments looking to see if anyone else caught that. I even back-tracked the video to see if I was seeing things.
Glad there're mechanic's like you who care but I hate all the sensors & crap on our engines today. I've got a Chevy w/ a 5.7L
engine(95 Silverado) and that's one of the last years prior to the engines getting too many sensors & stuff. Kudo's for doing
the job & I'd bring mine to you if I could break it...... she just wants to run. I'm happy about that & thanks for the video, peace
Good job. Another Rainman is smarter than the average mechanic video.
Hi Ray wife unit Dave Justin excellent video on 1500 Ram I enjoyed it and as always you all be safe 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey Ray, you should look into cotton mesh gloves that go on before your rubber work gloves. I work in an optical laboratory that makes lenses for glasses, and we have to wear cotton mesh gloves as PPE under our rubber outer gloves. They save your hand from damage big time. Not only do they wick away moisture, but they also protect your hands from being cut or poked so easily.
There are gloves that are cut resistant. Grainger has them along with Amazon. There are several grades of resistance. A1 gloves are the least, but are good for what you do. They will soak up fluids but they have a slight coating that helps with grip. Used them when handling hazmat (oils, water, solvents).
When I was just a boy, I could remember my grandfather always saying, "You have to be a mechanic to own a Dodge."
Yup! I had an '85 Dodge Diplomat. I spent so much time futzing with it. Loved the car and I ran it for years and 200K+ miles. But I felt like I knew every nut and bolt personally! LOL
Meh not 100% true it help but not needed Mopar is super simple to work on. I would take Mopar in my shop all day an call it cake work lol. But I personally specialize in jeep.
nice work, although i feel bad, that you didn't fill us on state of that hole (front left thread) or the price of manifold
also, showing actuation of the motor itself and new valves with pliers prior to installation would be nice step - but i must say it was keeping me on my toes ;)
You just have to cut open the old intake, I find that amazing the dealer sends you the truck , proud of you Ray
I think the owner sent it to him from the dealers shop,
@Jay.Kellett don't know but I think Ray said the dealer sent the truck to him , doesn't matter Ray figured it out .
Those intake manifold flaps were very common to fail on the Hemis when I worked at Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep & Ram. They even failed on many Ford Focus with the 2.0 as well.
Chrysler dealership techs fail to impress me. Also had to go to a local shop to get a code addressed for evap bc the dealership couldn’t!
Quit watching for a while cause things got BUSY because I start watching and can't STOP !!!
Mopar tech here. Those older PCM connectors are almost always broken like that.
Grew up working on Mopar products mostly and still driving them...50 years later. Never had the interest in the muscle cars. I've spent time driving a lot of vehicles but still like Jeep/Ram most of all. I had a fair share of 318s and slant 6's. Both great engines. The little 4 cyl engine Jeep and AMC used was another engine that was easy to own. Never had issues with them.
Back when the engines were good ,not this Stellantis crap
I wish there was a small camera you could put up in there to see😊 looks like the valves got spun around or in the wrong position. You got it man 👊
Like a borescope? Just say’n.
The intake runner flappers are an issue on every Mopar engine that has them. Hemis, 3.5 & 4.0 liter V6s found in the Magnum/300/Charger/Pacifica.......
I will stick to Chevy, no plastic. 94 s10 240,000 and change
@rafaeldalmau664
I had one of those. No freaking headroom, then the oil pan rusted away. GM never bothered to either galvanize the pan, nor paint it.
I didn’t know the 5.7 Hemi was different in the trucks! My 2012 Challenger 5.7 looks very different.
Oh yeah! Lets do an autopsy. I would even pay to see it!
I don't know how many pcm connectors on Chrysler products have this same issue direct from the factory. First one I ran into thought the customer was monkeying around with the connector but later changed my thought as a factory install issue. Second one was on a jeep that had less than 20k miles and I doubt the old lady messed with it. As for one of the last ones I messed with, it was on a new delivery that had idle issues and barely made it off the truck and was due to poor connection to the pcm.
Copper plugs are correct for that, using platinum plugs may cause a misfire, some of the coils don't like them, I have a 2010, ram,
My 2014 Ram had the same problem with the PCM connectors! It was like it was glued together, but in reality the plastic got really brittle, most of my coil connectors, the tabs just broke off! Dodge Quality!😊😂
2013's unfortunately came with copper core plugs. Very informative video.
I put iridiums in my 13 when I changed them the first time. I just changed them again about 8 months ago. 258,000 KMs (160313 miles) on it
AWESOME!! So satisfying, seeing you diagnose, go step by step, no guessing!! Find the problem and fix the problem. Then you don't just assume it's working as designed, you go in and watch it work!! Thank you for the video. Have a great day and a better tomorrow for all your tomorrow's to come..
I think the first thing I would have done is to see if the valves do in fact open more when you turn the shaft.
@1515: I would have put some blue shop towels into the intake runners to keep anything from falling in.
Ray you need to get a seam ripper for sowing so you can cut electrical tape without the chance of nicking the wire insulation/sheathing
One thing that I learned back in 2014 is that you cannot trust a moped master technician to be able to troubleshoot his way out of a wet paper bag. My daughter had a Town and Country Touring that was in the shop more than it was on the road. I called the service department, from Ireland, after the sixth time, told them what to change, and the van finally stopped experiencing the issue she had experienced. Needless to say, she sold the van and will no longer own the aptly-named dodge products
Her mistake was taking a van to a moped mechanic.
@@wayneessar7489 moped is what I refer to as chrysler, the appropriately named product referred to as a dodge, and the products formerly produced and sold under the name plymouth. A vespa, in my opinion, has more value, worth and purpose than a mopar. Mercedes was actually smart to sell mopar to Fix It Again Tomorrow (Fiat). During the assembly, you did not see Ray struggle with the installation of the oil cap? That is the perfect example of mopar quality. Also, let's not forget that the quality of their "technicians" is equal to that of the product. The individual repairing the truck at the dealership had the part in his hands, just as Ray did. He didn't perform a simple task, and check the valves; he simply replaced the actuator.
The first mistake my daughter made was to purchase that "quality" automobile.
It’s not the Mopar technicians’ diagnosis to the issue, rather it’s Stellantis ordering the technician what to repair, and what parts to apply. This process applies to both warranty and non-warranty repairs. This isn’t the days of Chrysler LLC or FCA, in where common sense ruled the day.
Sry to hear that in your area. The master tec at my local deal has become friends with me due to me asking him 1000s of questions an has even showed me a few tips an tricks. Then offered me a job but I'm running my own shop an don't want to close to work for a dealership.
@@briankiefer856 if you've got the part out of the vehicle (how else can you change that actuator?) why wouldn't you check to see if the valve shaft turned fully? A reasonable technician would do that, and they should know what the throw is on that shaft, don't you think? It has nothing to do with what the company requires of the technician, especially since it only takes a few seconds, and it's common sense. I think the last part is where the problem lies.
Always informative and entertaining Ray!
Throttle position is probably considered, but mostly RPM. At some point, switches from long runners (tubes), which help low end torque, to short runners, which help high end power.
This system is probably unavoidable, there's no other way to get good power all the way across the rpm band.
Yep, been in play for some time. 1990s-era Ford/Mazda 1.8L and 2.5L V6 had 'em to vary intake runner length for various RPM bands. My '99 Ford Contour SVT had 'em and you could tell when they'd start getting sticky as you'd lose the higher-end power and the gratifying intake sounds when they didn't open properly.
the original plugs on a 2019 from factory are champions, manual says to change out every 30,000 miles. probably why they went to ngk. i switched to iridium tipped in my 2019 ram with the 5.7. changing
out champions every 30,000 miles is nuts.
Did he forget the drivers side fuel rail bolt? He did the stud, but not the normal bolt…
Shit, right after I posted he caught it lol…
Get a sewing seam ripper to cut insulation away on a wiring harness.
It's amazing how much more complicated manufacturers will make things to gain 20 ft lbs of torque. I fix these systems from Ford and Chrysler too much.
Nice work.
It looks really helpful to have the dealership's diag steps so clearly written out.
A lot better than, "They told me they replaced some intake-side parts."
My thinking is that they didn't want to throw the tech under the bus... cynical me thinks they know they're not capable and covering them. on the other side they genuinely didn't know and didn't want someone coming back to them with a bill for something they charged for
Curios if you bled fuel pressure prior to removing the fuel pressure sensor from fuel rail. I had to replace mine, and that one looks to be original and will eventually need to be replaced, but why I ask is because when I removed mine I had a lot more fuel come rushing out.
Home's you are fast , smart and real good , man ! Stay cool , man .
that truck is what my friend would call as “service resistant “
I have to agree with the others regarding the range of movement, old vs. new. It seems identical.
Hey Ray,, You've got my Vote. Excellent job on the Vett
You know it's a good day when it's a parts unboxing video.
Dealt with the same thing during my time with dodge. A rare occurrence, but does happen.
I know it’s about trigger control but watching you drive those screws into plastic with an impact caused me to wince with each one. SO easy to strip them.
Ray watched your video on refurbishing headlights did it to my mother in laws lights worked great thank you for your video keep up the good work
Great diagnosis Ray. Even the dealer should be proud of you too. Yeah, right.
Nice job fix it !
Thanks for sharing this one with us and teaching us !
"Beware of--Mercury, beware of --Mercury: I was hit by a Mustang"!
I hope you put some new washer radium spark plugs on that while that intake was off. Would have been a hell of a lot easier
I am just obstinate to use a Dremel tool to take the manifold apart to see if I could fix it. I really don't like unfixable parts. Hope you tear it apart to see what the problem is.
As always Ray, fun watching you fix what others refuse to do. Honest Ray refuses to have customers pay more rhen they need to
would like to have seen the new valves inside the manifold turn with the pliers to see if the dynastic was a good one
wow dealer didn't check the turning of intake runner sure carbon deposit in it. great diag. sure customer be happy with result.
It would have been easy to do since they had the intake off
When you get to 60 years old, the six pack abs turn into a keg, and the discomfort you feel is when you’re pushing on the hernia so😢
Working over an open intake....... Do you feel lucky?
😅Great video. Confirmed fix. Do you prefer a wired scan tool over a wireless/ bluetooth one?
Sublime troubleshooting, Ray. All you were missing were a few dozen “doodley-doos” to interrupt your concentration.
My 2014 Ram 1500 came with NGK platinum plugs from the factory.
I remember having issues with Mercedes intakes having similar issues. But that wasn’t the only issue their intakes had. They put a vacuum hose (not plastic port) on the bottom that would degrade over. The only fix was to replace the intake. Tried fixing one but didn’t work.
I seen this faulty in another video. It was not working on at all. Replaced it and it was good to go...
28:44 What ?! Music is back in the shop 😀 In your head, in your head zombie zombie.
We haven't heard the 4 non-blonde for a long time. 🙃
Love the investigation Ray. I believe NGK are oem. My 2016 ram 1500 hemi had ngk irridium factory plugs in it.
The dealer "tech" said that it "past" test, so the test was in the past and it really didn't pass the test. I hope the dealer uses this video for training.
First time I seen you pull an intake and didn't stuff blue paper towel down the heads..