My twenty year old roof had screws on the ridges. Portions of the roofing were lifting off from stripped out screws. Other roofers told me that was correct, but as they say, "the proof of the pudding is in the eating". After 47 years in auto repair I can tell you a fastener that is not seated to some thing solid will eventually come loose, no matter what. IMO this info is right on.
Thank you for someone finally showing the proper way to install screws in an exposed fastener metal roof panel. To many sites just want to either avoid talking about exposed fastener roofs or they just bash them claiming the will fail in short order.
I just removed 30 year old metal roof panels which had screws both on the ribs and on flats along the bottom. The screws that were on top of the ribs were very loose with some lifting out by had, and the screws on the flats were nice and secure.
Hello I just wanted to thank you for the explanation on installing the screws on a metal roof I am going thru this right now and I like the way you explained about putting the screws in the valley and not the ridge,,, I like that.. again thank you so much...
I am a "newbie" to metal roofing. My 44 year old roof has both techniques. They used 1 5/8 long hex-drive screws everywhere to mate the ribbed roof to the heavier guage rib-less galvanized sub- roof. It was quite a surprise to see all of that screw sticking out into the insulation. I have started using 1/2 inch truss head screws where there is nothing to screw into (wood truss) under that point. I also used the 1/2 inch screws ON THE RIB but only to join the sections where they overlap and then at an angle. Here in Michigan we have issues with ice damming which lifts the edge of the roof and creates a leak issue. I am installing a drip edge to limit the damming and the gutters will have heat tape to keep the water flowing away. Most people do not realize the force that freeze/thaw cycle can generate, and design gutters to control liquid water not frozen water.
Thx, how far do you space the screw up the roof? I have a 4/12 pitch hip roof on my Gazebo. Size it 11’x13’. I was told screws are bottom at drip edge, then at the top of the roof and then a row of screws in the middle of the panels?? I was thinking every 15” running from the drip edge to the top?? Your thoughts please.. thx oh it’s a 5v panel 24” wide panels and the longest panel length is 73” from drip edge to top of roof
That's why they have these screws called stitch screws they are just for the overlaps. Here in the South we screw in the flat, and stitch screw the overlaps. I work with a Licensed General Contractor of more than 30 years.
@@dougreed736 Welcome anytime. As the metal panels manufacturers evolved they realized ( well most of them) it would benefit more screwing the flat and stronger hold from uplift from windshear especially in high wind regions. Even the 5 V metal panels are installed screwing on flat. Stitch screws are usually about a inch they basically just seal the overlap panels together.
Depends on your substrate if it's plywood substrate or slats. I work for Licensed General Contractor of more than 30 years, what we do is take a sheet, mark 2" at the eave, then every 16" up to the top end of the sheet ( this will be a pattern) then we put 5 sheets together with the pattern on top, clamped even at the eave of the panel and drill through all 6 panels. Usually the pattern is used till all panels are installed. That way all of the screws line up perfectly vertically, horizontally, and diagonally while looking at them from the ground or standing on the roof. We only screw the rib with what is called stitch screws at the overlaps.
Pushpush Lambert you have to just use your brain. The problem is that the decking will be denser in some spots and sometimes you hit a rafter and theirs more resistance
I'd still go rib... your example of flexing one screw is not the same as a whole sheet screwed down at multiple points, far less flex if any. Some screws are always going to loosen over time and I'd much rather have them on ribs, knowing water is going to shed off into the flats, than the opposite. Plus it keeps the seams tight. I'd do the same if it were my house. Just my opinion though...
I have been steel roofing for 45 years, always predrilled on the ribs, never a leak, important to keep the seem tight because of the suction properties of water, and yes water runs off the ribs and can pool on flat, also if you use strapping some pieces may have high moisture content when installed when it dries i would rather have screws in ribs than flat
@@taylorgordon2696 worked for dad at 16.....we built pole barns....roofing and siding steel.....37 took over company....retired last year 70....son has it now......so fu....loser
So i guess those 100 year old barns with leaded nails on the ridge were wrong? Do yourself a favor and just buy the longer screws put it on the ridge and stop the leaks. This guy only uses one screw to prove his point by the time you get the entire roof down it will be so solid the roof could hold the house up with no blocks underneath it.
No you’re wrong, they did that with nails because the nails would naturally loosen over time, causing leaks if it was nailed in the flat, screws won’t loosen over time when attached tight to something
@@taylorswiftnumberon1 Re-read my message, I said NAILS will loosen up and cause leaks, screws will not, thats why noone uses those nails anymore. And you shouldn't use screws in the rib because there is nothing solid under them. Also, the rubber washer is larger than the top of rib not allowing a complete seal. And lastly, screwing the rib almost ALWAYS causes deformation in the metal. Having wood under the flat, you get a nice tight seal. As products evolve, so does the installation. The manufacturer we use will void all warranty if screwed through rib.
@@jns66jns The metal panel may last 50 years but the rubber washer keeping the water out will only last 9-15 years. And you do understand that snow melts from the bottom don’t ya. And again look at those 100 year old barns that are nailed instead of screws.
Yet if you go to the manufacture sites for exposed fastener panels they tell you to install the screws in the flats not the ridges. Maybe you need to go tell all these manufactures of metal exposed fastener panels they don't know what they are doing and correct them, hell you could make a million dollars. Oh by the way once you install the screws on the ridges all the test data goes out the window on the panels because you failed to follow their installation instructions.
Jesh I almost mentioned the glove glad I hadn't..would have stuck my foot in my mouth again.. I think if you get to 75 years old and haven't lost one two you were prolly were doing it wrong ...that's why we have so many spares 😉
My twenty year old roof had screws on the ridges. Portions of the roofing were lifting off from stripped out screws. Other roofers told me that was correct, but as they say, "the proof of the pudding is in the eating". After 47 years in auto repair I can tell you a fastener that is not seated to some thing solid will eventually come loose, no matter what. IMO this info is right on.
Even if it does come loose it still shouldn't leak as oppose to flat surface, no?
Thank you for someone finally showing the proper way to install screws in an exposed fastener metal roof panel. To many sites just want to either avoid talking about exposed fastener roofs or they just bash them claiming the will fail in short order.
I just removed 30 year old metal roof panels which had screws both on the ribs and on flats along the bottom. The screws that were on top of the ribs were very loose with some lifting out by had, and the screws on the flats were nice and secure.
Hello I just wanted to thank you for the explanation on installing the screws on a metal roof I am going thru this right now and I like the way you explained about putting the screws in the valley and not the ridge,,, I like that.. again thank you so much...
I am a "newbie" to metal roofing. My 44 year old roof has both techniques. They used 1 5/8 long hex-drive screws everywhere to mate the ribbed roof to the heavier guage rib-less galvanized sub- roof. It was quite a surprise to see all of that screw sticking out into the insulation. I have started using 1/2 inch truss head screws where there is nothing to screw into (wood truss) under that point. I also used the 1/2 inch screws ON THE RIB but only to join the sections where they overlap and then at an angle. Here in Michigan we have issues with ice damming which lifts the edge of the roof and creates a leak issue. I am installing a drip edge to limit the damming and the gutters will have heat tape to keep the water flowing away. Most people do not realize the force that freeze/thaw cycle can generate, and design gutters to control liquid water not frozen water.
best video ive seen explaining why to do it in the flat...thank you thank you.
I'm going to reroof with five v crimp and your reasoning settles my thought to put the screws on the flat,.. thanks for the assurance,...
That 5v crimp is nice looking stuff, wish I could go that route
I've seen screws break from ice when screwed on the ridge
Thank you
very good video
Thx, how far do you space the screw up the roof? I have a 4/12 pitch hip roof on my Gazebo. Size it 11’x13’. I was told screws are bottom at drip edge, then at the top of the roof and then a row of screws in the middle of the panels?? I was thinking every 15” running from the drip edge to the top?? Your thoughts please.. thx oh it’s a 5v panel 24” wide panels and the longest panel length is 73” from drip edge to top of roof
It's not difficult at all..don't over drive your screw, also screw the middle flat on bottom as well
I recently did my garage in metal. I found if I didn't screw the rib when connecting the next sheet the rib left a large Crack
That's why they have these screws called stitch screws they are just for the overlaps. Here in the South we screw in the flat, and stitch screw the overlaps. I work with a Licensed General Contractor of more than 30 years.
@@jonathan3982 good to know thanks.
It was my first time working with metal and I didn't see that in any videos I had watched
@@dougreed736 Welcome anytime. As the metal panels manufacturers evolved they realized ( well most of them) it would benefit more screwing the flat and stronger hold from uplift from windshear especially in high wind regions. Even the 5 V metal panels are installed screwing on flat. Stitch screws are usually about a inch they basically just seal the overlap panels together.
What about spacing how far apart do I need to screw in
Depends on your substrate if it's plywood substrate or slats. I work for Licensed General Contractor of more than 30 years, what we do is take a sheet, mark 2" at the eave, then every 16" up to the top end of the sheet ( this will be a pattern) then we put 5 sheets together with the pattern on top, clamped even at the eave of the panel and drill through all 6 panels. Usually the pattern is used till all panels are installed. That way all of the screws line up perfectly vertically, horizontally, and diagonally while looking at them from the ground or standing on the roof. We only screw the rib with what is called stitch screws at the overlaps.
That's why they invented clutches on drills ....... What happens when the rubber under the screw dries out in 5 years ... nope .. Wrong !
Paul Lambert As I understand it the new screws use a neoprene grommet instead of the rubber. No dry rot in 5yrs.
Pushpush Lambert you have to just use your brain. The problem is that the decking will be denser in some spots and sometimes you hit a rafter and theirs more resistance
cool
I'd still go rib... your example of flexing one screw is not the same as a whole sheet screwed down at multiple points, far less flex if any. Some screws are always going to loosen over time and I'd much rather have them on ribs, knowing water is going to shed off into the flats, than the opposite. Plus it keeps the seams tight. I'd do the same if it were my house. Just my opinion though...
I have been steel roofing for 45 years, always predrilled on the ribs, never a leak, important to keep the seem tight because of the suction properties of water, and yes water runs off the ribs and can pool on flat, also if you use strapping some pieces may have high moisture content when installed when it dries i would rather have screws in ribs than flat
@@waynekannegiesser5948 45 years? Bs
@@taylorgordon2696 worked for dad at 16.....we built pole barns....roofing and siding steel.....37 took over company....retired last year 70....son has it now......so fu....loser
How you you suggest to stop corrosion of the roofing screws over time
don't use cheapo madeinchina "stainless" / "galvanized" screws
lol with it in the rib, 99.9% of water misses
Absolutley wrong.
The water is in the valley not on the rib.
If you overdrive it you are over tightening the rubber seal
So i guess those 100 year old barns with leaded nails on the ridge were wrong? Do yourself a favor and just buy the longer screws put it on the ridge and stop the leaks. This guy only uses one screw to prove his point by the time you get the entire roof down it will be so solid the roof could hold the house up with no blocks underneath it.
No you’re wrong, they did that with nails because the nails would naturally loosen over time, causing leaks if it was nailed in the flat, screws won’t loosen over time when attached tight to something
@@jns66jns so you admit when you nail or screw in the flat there is a chance for a leak…nice
@@taylorswiftnumberon1 Re-read my message, I said NAILS will loosen up and cause leaks, screws will not, thats why noone uses those nails anymore. And you shouldn't use screws in the rib because there is nothing solid under them. Also, the rubber washer is larger than the top of rib not allowing a complete seal. And lastly, screwing the rib almost ALWAYS causes deformation in the metal. Having wood under the flat, you get a nice tight seal. As products evolve, so does the installation. The manufacturer we use will void all warranty if screwed through rib.
@@jns66jns The metal panel may last 50 years but the rubber washer keeping the water out will only last 9-15 years. And you do understand that snow melts from the bottom don’t ya. And again look at those 100 year old barns that are nailed instead of screws.
Yet if you go to the manufacture sites for exposed fastener panels they tell you to install the screws in the flats not the ridges. Maybe you need to go tell all these manufactures of metal exposed fastener panels they don't know what they are doing and correct them, hell you could make a million dollars. Oh by the way once you install the screws on the ridges all the test data goes out the window on the panels because you failed to follow their installation instructions.
4 fingers on your right hand?
Good catch!
Thank good someone else noticed , the glove finger is gone also 😱
Jesh I almost mentioned the glove glad I hadn't..would have stuck my foot in my mouth again.. I think if you get to 75 years old and haven't lost one two you were prolly were doing it wrong ...that's why we have so many spares 😉