I forgot to say in the video that recording on the microscope does not capture any sound (just like my Andonstar) this might not be important for many but for me to get video footage in sync with other camera footage and the sound capture can be quite a challenge. I have also suggested to LinkMicro that they should perhaps consider making a model bespoke for our hobby with features we would find useful like a light in the base so we can inspect jewels etc. Hopefully they will read the comments too! We can only try....
That's an even better idea, a specialist watchmakers' version. Whatever else this is, it's definately great for closeups, I don't think i've seen dried up oil illustrations as good as that before.
Might I also suggest that, if you could, record your volume a bit higher? I have to put the volume on my end to the max just to be able to ear it properly…
You mentioned that the slide stand had a light in it, could you not have put the movement block on that(with the light on) to inspect the jewels???? Just a thought, i would have tried that. And i must say, i have watched more than a dozen, maybe more of microscope 😊"reviews" and everyone just seemed to be more interested in showing electronic works, and i thank you very much that you have virtually answered the most important question which is...."the height"away from the object so watch hobbiest can get their hands right in there to work. I have been looking at an Andonstar that has a longer post at the back, and an endoscope camera as well which comes up on a quarter of the 10" screen. Im thinkin, i might be getting it as it kinda tick all the boxes for me, i will be getting as an extra, a barlow lense with the unit. So lets see how i go. Thanks again for a top notch review. Mike.
I'm definitely sold on this, getting one. I had to pack in watch servicing a while ago due to ageing eyesight and was waiting until I could afford a reasonably priced digital microscope . This is the one for me. Thanks for the great review.
Hi Mike. Thanks to your videos I went from watch modding used and some new Seiko divers to performing a full service on the movements. I can get my vintage 6309s to +- a few seconds a day (dial up) with beat errors better than some of my brand new expensive watches. Your videos have helped me tremendously! Thanks Gene, Clinton Twp, Michigan
Wow thanks for that feedback. Really pleased you have found my content useful. I think the 6309 videos were years ago and probably not the best quality . Ironically the Seiko I mention that is next to be filmed (using the scope) is a 6309. I recorded the disassembly last night! stay tuned for that video in a few weeks.
Looked it up in wiki: In microscopy the Barlow lens is used to increase working distance and decrease magnification. The lenses are "objective lenses" that are mounted in front of the microscope's last objective element. Barlow lenses for microscopes can be found with magnifications ranging from 0.3× to 2×. Some standard lenses are 2×, which decreases the working distance by half and doubles the magnification, 0.75× (3/4×), which increases the working distance by 4/3× (1.33×) and decreases the magnification by 0.75×, and a 0.5× Barlow doubles the working distance and halves the magnification.
Ever heard of a Mantis scope?Where I used to work,they were an industrial distributor of precision measuring tools,Calipers,Micrometers and my particular specialty,the tiny Test Indicators.If you are not familiar with the term test indicator,ask any machinist.They are used for so many things.The biggest advantage of the Mantis system is that you sit up straight looking into what looks like a small TV screen instead of peering through the typical microscope eyeports.Even glasses wearer can use it.While what I did was not watch repair,I used the same skills learned in watch school, oiling jewel bearings and dealing with the pesky hairsprings.Keep in mind, this was 20 something years ago.The watchmakers influence was clear in how these mechanisms were made,plates aligned with pins,hairsprings held with taper pins,the shape of the pivots,jeweled bearings,also some ball bearing instead of jewels,depending on where and how the part in question functioned. The best part was sitting upright instead of bent over,all hunched over....and it had its own built-in LED lights ring.There was also a SLWD (SUPER LONG WORKING DISTANCE) lens available,meaning there was room to use tweezers and screwdrivers.These can sometines be found on eBay very reasonably.
Thank you Mike. Great information and advice. As a result of your earlier video on digital microscope I obtained a 7" Chinese microscope. Has most of the systems that your new one has. I made a wooden block to extend the height and can view 95% of the watch, so it allows me to work as you did. And it has a lens light. As you say, a game changer. I watch your videos and learn so much. Take care. Keep safe.
Thank you Ross. a ring light is good, I have one for my main camera (although its playing up for some reason) only issue with that is you can get the reflection of it in jewels and with glass like a crystal so it can bother me for making videos for the channel anyway as I am always trying to improve the quality of the videos in the vain hope of more people watching them.
I agree, $200-$230 would be a better price point. The software is a big plus. The image quality is MUCH better than the $74 unit I bought a few years ago. Its stand leaves a lot to be desired also. Thanks for the review.
This looks pretty cool...and i agree, a scope is a life saver! I work under a scope at my job, and purchased the same brand for at home with the watches. I'm familiar with them, they are good quality. I purchased a Meiji EMT. Had to purchase an led ring light, but its great. Super vid Mike!
@My Retro Watches I hear ya...I often use mine on the balance jewels...and I'm always paranoid as I bring my tool close thinking I'm gonna stab the hair spring...
Mike, I have recently played around with using my iPhone as a cam via QuickTime Player or whatever video feed app is on Windows. It is MUCH better than any of the small cams/scopes with 7" monitor, and almost everyone has both phone and computer already. Image quality is excellent, recordings are excellent and zoom is great-cam stays away from work area. Maybe a video on a simple smartphone setup? Regards...Jack The Cat
Looks like the the biggest advantage would be ergonomics, less eye, neck and upper back strain. You adapted to the head/hand disconnect completely intuitively. May be the pinging problem would be mitigated at least to a small extent by videoing spring activities (maybe even in high speed) to allow replays in slo mo to at least see the general direction the fourth dimension lies in. Great video as usual, well done.
Thank you. I was also surprised on my ability to work under it in such a way. I had said over the years that I did not think working under such scopes would be easy due to that odd way of looking at a screen whist working. You do loose that depth of field like when you want to oil a post. You are thinking am I above the post or in the right place! I think with time I can master that part. Saving my back and eyes is a real game changer for me. With the scope being so big I think you could also build a shield from cardboard to go around the base so if you did have a ping moment it would bounce off and contain it within your working area, as long as the ping did not fly towards you! (they often do!)
Possibly. I remember a discussion in my facebook group about the andonstar stope that a member had bought some small led strip light that he slid under the movement holder to give him that functionality. Maybe in a few months I might do an update video on this scope, how it could be improved and any workarounds to mitigate some of the shortcomings.
Meant to comment when you posted this. Let me introduce myself, watch guy meet microscope guy. I'm a microscope service tech. Anyway one thing you talked about with the digital scope you bought was poor working distance and I wanted to let you know (if you did already then I apologize) that there are quite a few stereo scopes with long working distances. I was servicing a couple yesterday with 6 & 8" of space. The ones I deal with are optical analog but there are digital scopes with decent working distance too. 😊
I mentioned boom arm stereoscopes but you pay good money for them which most hobbyist watchmakers do not have £300-500 for a scope available. Many start with the AM scope that I have on my bench which i like but you can’t work under it , not that I would normally solely work under a scope for watch making anyway. It’s a question asked to me all the time and that’s why I took on this review to show there are affordable options digitally that clearly can be used with the added function of recording plus the measuring software. I would always prefer a stereo over digital but as mentioned the cost makes them very prohibitive
I'm a student at a vocational school of watchmaking in Japan, and your video helped me a lot. Nobody around me is using digital one and doesn't have any review, so thanks for sharing.
@@MyRetroWatches That's pretty important point, thank you for telling me. I'm also curious about the time lagging of screen. Did you find any difficulty about it?
Superb video and channel. I’ve literally just bought this scope on the back of your review. It’s on an Amazon deal at the moment for £250 gbp. Thank you for your content
@@MyRetroWatches Hi, just setting it up. Seems great! Just quick question, is there a Barlow lens that I can add to this microscope for a wider view when working on the maximum height lens?
@@arthurfowler5943 personally I don’t know. I’ve never needed one. I sure there will be as people used them on the Andonstar scopes and they are basically the same brand.
Thanks Mike for the review. I brought one very similar to this only a month ago. I totally agree with the adjustment pole etc re quality. The monitor and functions I like just needs a better stand. Still getting used to mine. All the best.👍
Great review. I am about 1 month into using my Andonstar (the bigger one you can fit screwdrivers under). I find myself falling back to the loupe for two reasons- 1) I miss the three quarter view to get multiple dimensions as I’m placing the parts. 2) my hand-eye coordination for finer work is much weaker under the scope - perhaps that’s something I need to get used to.
Hi Chris, I can agree with you. We loose depth of field with the screen view. I do not have that issue with my stereoscope. I think in time you can learn and adapt but to carry out a full service under the scope is not viable it would still be a combination of scope and a loupe. I demonstrated that with not being able to fit the balance! Appreciate your feedback as always and thanks for watching.
Great video. Picking up from some of the comments, I have tilted the column of my basic Andonstar back until I can work with a screwdriver viewed at an angle. I will give it a try and see how it goes. I only have one good eye and have tried all sorts of loupes but would prfer to use a microscope with a screen.
Great video, Mike! How about... Instead of painting the base white, you cut a green Matt to fit the surface held in place with some tabs of double sided tape (at the corners)? I've done this with my new digital microscope, and it's better on the eye's. Worth a shot to see if you like it. You can always do what you're already doing with the white paper for clear views of the jewels. Thanks for the awesome information you share, it really helps us!
The Andonstar AD249S 10.1 Inch is basically the same then the one in this video but for the same price, around 280€ you get the HDMI on the Andonstar were at the LinkMicro you pay almost 100€ more for that.
Andonstar and LinkMicro are actually the same company. My Andonstar has the same software as the bigger one but the bigger one with changeable lenses , bigger height to work under and the laptop software is much more usable . I doubt I will use my Andonstar again now.
What an excellent video Mike, I love it ! You can work more precisely, inspections of parts in the same time, is a good tool to have for sure. By the way it a great video, image, explanation, music, double screen shot, that’s perfect ! Thank you for sharing, this video will surely be a reference when time will come to by one !! My salutation from Canada !!
It is a game changer for sure. I bought my scope 3 years ago off your link and use it for inspection to this day. You're right: hand-to-scope-to-eye is the most challenging to overcome especially after being so used to loupe work. I dont have a digital scope like yours but an AmScope boom scope 7x43 with a Barlow lens and LED light. I go between that and my trusty loupe. Great video Mike.
In the past I have used sticky vinyl to put underneath. A roll for a Cricut machine is inexpensive and you can get colors very close to the blue/green that we like to use.
Another great review Mike. Having been through the microscope journey I have found the best solution for me is an Amscope Trinocular 7x45 Stereo double arm - basically had to suck up and take the hit on cost but as you say an absolute game changer. With the cost, if I add up the cost of the ones bought that don't work well enough and the time saved with the amscope it is well worth it.
I’m sure that’s a nice model if it’s the one I am thinking of it’s around $500 . Up until now I’ve mainly just used loupes and been okay other than microscope for filming or inspection
Indeed. The good thing is you are more likely to see it. I can miss this sometimes under the cameras because I am not 100% focused on what I am doing due to talking or making sure the shot is right. Going forward this scope will be very useful to mitigate some of that issue.
Hi Mike. From the POV of price, when you take into consideration the price of some of the tools, especially the likes of Bergeon, £250ish isn't too bad for what it is.
Of course Simon but for me its all about the beginners, once you are hooked on the hobby you can easily justify costs of tools as you can see the benefit but at the beginning, at least for me the thought of a timegrapher being £100+ was a daunting prospect. I am now also fortunate that I can just about raise enough money from the channel advert revenue to support the hobby without coming out of the household running cost fund. A cheaper scope with this functionality if shown to the community would sell more I think, saying that the comments here today are very positive so I must have done the review well.
I was saying the same thing for $ 300.00 US dollars you are get a lot of features for that price to me It's worth the price its a multi-use microscope from watch repair to clock repair and if your into woodworking and get a peskie wood splinter that microscope would come in handy ...
Thank you Stephen, Good luck with your choice. I am really pleased with this one despite some of its shortcomings. Either way when you purchase a scope you will be pleased with the new watchmaking world you will be looking at!
Great video Mike. Thanks for sharing this information. It definitely helps me to make a qualified decision on what my next purchase should be. Well done 👍
I have a cheaper one and yes, it has the problem of limited space. BUT: you can unscrew a little the main bar, turn it of 180 degrees, secure it and put the base on a higher plane. The only problem is that you MUST put som weight on the bas to make it stable. Cheers, Mike
Interesting review. I am looking for a good digital microscope and I cannot believe that for the money there was no rack fitted for zooming in and out!
There is but not on the main pillar. There is a smaller rack behind the screen which gives you some good motion . By contrast I have a Tomlov in for review too and this has the same weakness
Seeing all the bits & pieces being dismantled & put back together, reminds me of videos on how to dismantle & rebuild an iPhone, but on a smaller scale. It's possible to dismantle & rebuild an iPhone by eye & hand alone, while trying to dismantle & rebuild a watch without adequate apparatus, such as a camera scope, or table top magnifying glass, is just impossible!
Super helpful to see your extensive real-world use. I have been considering one of the big AmScope setups but at nearly $1000 for the whole package, it's been more than I was comfortable spending as a total hobbyist. This does look like a good compromise. So appreciative of your honest and realistic review!
Glad it was helpful I do like those proper AM scopes and would have one if funds were not an issue. This has many plus points and is a good compromise. For me it is already now in use for future videos including the firemans watch video I put up last week.
My experience is soldering on PCBs. I found stereo microscopes to be my best choice. I found heads up microscopes to be no good for me. Those with a screen had no depth so trying to place the soldering iron and tweezers was difficult. Another type of heads up had 3d depth. It accomplished it with an optical trick of a spinning disk. But the light from the subject was greatly attenuated so the illumination had to be very strong. VERY strong. Blinding. I you looked down at the subject for just a second your eyes would get blinded and be no good for a couple minutes.
Man alive, you are a fast adapter! I really really like it, and luckily enough I haven't purchased one yet as a newbie. Unless something falls off and breaks by the end of the video (I'm about halfway through) it has just rocketed to the top of my "to buy" list. I will wait for a while to hear your next evaluations (good, because I have to save up for it) but I was very impressed. Until now I've held off on buying one for the very reason that they've all looked difficult to work under. I want to jump in, "crack on!" and learn it once. I have other uses for it besides watch repair. I do some electrical Arduino type hobby work and I'm about to get into light engraving, and this would be good for those purposes also. Everything is cooler somehow with a good microscope. I've had the same file corruption problem with a regular 64GB USB dongle while making backups of my other work, so it's not an egregious fault (always WAIT and EJECT the media!) ...pausing while I finish the video... OK I've seen through to the end now and you've done a great job pointing out the +/ -. As someone who has never used a microscope for this before, I would be learning it fresh, sans any remorse or "unlearning/relearning" from prior purchases. The flaws can be corrected or lived with. I would put a plastic cap on the main tube just for cosmetics - it looks a bit rough at the edges - am I missing it? White paint on the base - or better yet - maybe even a thin sheet of white (nonslippery), removable adhesive vinyl so it can be removed and help prevent "rogue" parts that hit the base from rolling too far. Then some elbow grease on the vertical adjustment to fabricate something and quiet it down, etc. The price is a little steep for me too but it may come down some while I save up. The 10" screen HDMI version is $279 on my Amazon and so far, it's a compelling buy. I was struck by the image quality right out of the box. I only have the use of one eye (my right) while I wait to have a cataracted lens replaced, so stereo microscopes do nothing for me at the moment. I already have a pretty good loupe for those "weird moments." Thank you again for your honest and thorough review - I thought it deserved a bit of a long reply. I can also buy it with 12 monthly payments. Amazon is offering a $20 off coupon, and if I can finagle business pricing (another 8% off) I could get it for $239.19. I think this is the one for me! Stay strong, Mike! 💪🙏We're so glad to have you around with us.
Thank you for your detailed replay. Also pleased liked my review. Like I said at the beginning I did not want to BS and say its fantastic etc just because I would feel obliged to seeing as I am given it. If I am recommending something for our hobby then I need to test it honestly and thoroughly so I am hoping my test in this video did that justice. Yes there are some shortcomings and hopefully Linkmicro are listening. I have suggested to them that they design a scope for watchmaking and I would help them with it using my community to explain our needs. You never know! equally things like a rack and pinion could be added to this as an upgrade so I will badger this company to see how responsive they are. With good feedback perhaps they are willing to improve their products. £250 is a high price but you can see the benefits so this at least gives viewers the idea of what can be achieved.
Great vid, I did purchase the "S" version and find it next to useless the AM scope is a fiddle but far easier to use, this USB scope is awful to use, but that might be me.
It’s not for everyone and I completely understand. I have an AM Scope stereo scope and I always preferred it to any digital but it has limitations , at least the one I bought in that you are restricted for working space and the x8 on mine was awful as it was too narrow a field of view with s poor focus point. I always recommended people to only use scopes for inspection and oiling however now I have this bigger digital I find it great for on the fly photos of movements I’ve not worked on , recording shots for my videos now is also a bit plus. To summarise I think both have merits on a bench for different jobs and for reasons above. Yes the overall quality with the digital is a bit flaky but then for a compatible big Am scope with filming capabilities it’s x4 cheaper. The AM I wanted is over £500 last time I looked
Just an observation; when measuring diameter, it is important that your end point be exactly 180° from your start point, which can be very difficult to eyeball. Back in my aviation days, we had ball gauges which could be inserted into a hole and expanded to fill the entire hole. Then, the gauge could be removed and measured with a micrometer. I don't know if any such tools exist on a small enough scale to measure inside diameter of a watch jewel, but it's perhaps worth exploring. My background also means I cringe a little whenever someone measures a crystal or case back with the points of a dial caliper for many of the same reasons. To ensure 180° separation between the measured points, the object should be placed all the way into the jaws of the caliper so one edge of the, say crystal is up against the rule of the caliper. this ensures thtat, as the jaws close they will stop at the exact diameter point, since the diameter is the longest distance between any two points on the perimeter of a circle.
You are quite right. I think I said in the video that its hard to place that tool in the exact position as you have no reference point. Its possible to make the magnification much larger and with each increase in power I would surmise you are making your measurement more accurate. The straight line tool is better. I still dont know when I might need this feature but its nice that its there all the same. Thanks for your comment its useful.
Thank you Mike for this very clear and honest video. Indeed, a microscope is a game changer and definitely a plus for jewel examination and final examination after the complete cleaning. Merci encore !
Thank you. I think it is important I tested most scenarios on a basic service using a microscope for everyone to make their own decision on if this is useful or not for the cost of the scope.
It is a flaw but something i am working on, I am thinking of doing an update video in a few months with some workarounds to mitigate some of the shortcomings.
Screws can loosen although its rare, it would depend on what the watch as been used for and if anyone has been inside. The next video (also using this scope) I started filming last night. That had a very loose train wheel screw. I also know why but you will have to wait for the video!
Your almost in my world . I know you have a bard eye . But yes it's a game changer .I have about ten inches of work area with my scope 99% of my work is done with a scope like your AM two eyes and a camera port . Good vid 😊
You could have stopped at "It's easier on my back". I really need that. I've been avoiding working on watches more because it kills my back these days. So hmmm...., I may just make that leap. Thanks for another great video. Cheers.
Thanks for the in-depth video, Mike. A couple of points about the Andonstar (which I have) mine came without a remote control but I bought one separately trusting that it would work with the Andonstar and it does - the one you were using appears to be the same one so I suggest you try it with the Andonstar. Also, you can clamp the Andonstar right at the bottom of its lens to give you more height. The LinkMicro one certainly looks the business so I look forward to watching your next video using it.
LinkMicro and Andonstar I think are the same company. I omitted this from the video as I have no proof. The cables are the same, remote and boot up screen . So they are either the same or using generic hardware/software. Yes I know you can put the Andonstar on the high setting as I found that out in the comments on the Andonstar review . Due to the size of this one in comparison , well there is no comparison I am doubtful I will use the Andonstar again to be honest.
Hi Mike, ive noticed that Andonstar have upgraded their stands to a “pro” stand which i think gives 13” length. Its tiltable back and forth, so I was wondering that if you could only buy one microscope for working under, would you go digital or standard optical version. I am tempted my the new andonstars but not sure what the difference is between the AD 407 and AD249 versions. I am brand new to the hobby and would like a microscope in the not too distant future as like you, am a spectacle wearer and dont really like head mounted or loupes for magnification. Any advice?
@@jndfishing4693 it’s a tough one. I have 3 scopes now , 2 digital and one stereo. I use the stereo all the time to work on and the digital for filming mainly and some really close inspection. I still do most work with a loupe and I have bought Donegan glasses eyeloupe. I actually have 2 powers but the main one is x3 They are far from cheap but what I use daily. When I was starting out I just bought an optivisor from cousins uk for about £15 that had a light in it and 4 lenses . I still own it now (actually I have 2) and still use it for jobs. You can continue to wear your glasses with it. I think it’s linked on my website in tool sales page. You only need a scope for your inspection and certain key jobs. Most professional will not ever use them and just get by with a loupe. Just bear that in mind
Sporting my Pagani Design Doxa today, abs perfect little thing and the NH38 hasn't dropped a second since firing it up :) Today the Weishi is out, going to finally regulate my triple crown Mortima based world timer, got the caseback off the damn thing last night with some industrial superglue and my go to big flanged nut, runs just a touch fast and fully degaussed but has a lusty tick to it so on the Weishi it will go :D Hope finds you and yours well :)
Hi Mike I noticed on the video that you’re unscrewing multiple screws at the same time instead of one at a time, something you said you shouldn’t do - have you changed opinion on this ?
I am now much more experienced and less likely to have mishaps with screws or plates. If I am recommending methods then this is to help beginners. Anyone that’s more experienced already has their technique
I think with more use, you will find it easier, and far better for your posture. Your frustration putting the balance in was plain to see. Great revive and nice movement. Keep safe and have a fabulous weekend buddy.
Hi Mike. I have found this review both extremely interesting and entertaining, I am currently engrossed in expanding my knowledge and skills in both the watch and electronics areas so this microscope could be a game changer for me. Cost as for everyone is a challenge but as it would cover both fields of interest for me I could kid myself its half price for each lol. My only observation is the screen seems very claustrophobic perched right at the front, my preference would be for it to be mounted off the back upright giving a slightly less in your face affect but it does seem most of these types are like this design. It would only be a short cable issue and i am probably the only person finding it an issue. In actual use it may feel very different but watching you it seemed you had to move around the screen at times. Overall though highly rated the product just have to justify the cost now!!!! Thank you for your amazing content
Hi Mike. I’m thinking of getting one of these for the reasons you give but also for manipulation of hairsprings. Have you tried doing that sort of work?
Difficult. I’m still much preferring my stereoscope for jobs like that. I think looking down the scope gives me a good sense of depth whereas with the digital it still feels a bit alien. So similar money you can get the AMscope with a boom arm which gives you more room to work under. I’m currently trying to save for a triscope so I can record whilst using the scope over my eyes. These are £500 plus £200 for the camera so I am trying to justify it right now.
like your overall honest approach- no faffing, down to earth. also like your choice in women, if i may say so- was born czech, family fled to germany in 1980 when i was still a baby...lol do toho!
Great vid as always. I've been looking at the LinkMicro and a review of it elsewhere. The other review said it's pretty good for observation mainly but not for working with tools under it. He said that the hand under the lenses blocks the view of the tool being used. On your vid you didn't mention any such problem so I thought I'd ask - did you find that working under the LinkMicro lenses was cumbersome in this regard?
Just bought mine! They're $198 now. I received a $150 gift card for applying for an Amazon card... So I paid $48 for that awesome microscope! Now I have to cancel that damn Amazon credit card.
Cousinsuk they are not cheap but I have tried all the cheap versions and not got on with any of them. These seem a good brand and will fit to any glasses. www.cousinsuk.com/product/watchmakers-loupes-donegan-usa
How do you find any delay in image from you moving your tool to the image displaying on the screen? A lot of systems I have seen including cheaper models that even use a smart phone all have too much delay in movement showing on the screen. It's only milliseconds but that's enough to throw me off. Just starting my watch making journey but being middle aged and poor eye sight I am going to need something like this. Or i might just get decent twin loupes to use.
I dont have any lag on this. If I did I would not be able to work under it like I did in this video and restortation videos I have done since this one.
Watchmakers sit with their arms at about the height of their table, which is higher than the normal 29-30 inches of a worktaable or desk.. It looks really odd, but since so many watch builders do it that way there must be advantages. With this new device the table working height should be optimized for the size of the individual worker. I use an optomotrist's stool with a good cushion and variable height and backrest position to get my arms in a comfortable possition, depending on the work project. Since I only have standard height tables and desks, I need a stool with easily adjustable height.
The high height of a workbench is to make it easier to see as you are not bending down so much. Most watchmakers will not use a microscope and just use eyeloupes.
One of the biggest problems (I reckon) for microscopes is that they look directly "downwards" onto the watch face. That is a VERY unnatural way of looking at things. it makes judging depth and distances difficult, and the tools always seem to be hitting the 'scope AND are directly blocking your line of sight. Much better, (I reckon) to look at he workpiece from an angle, say 45 degrees. Note here that I'm not talking about the angle you look INTO the microscope (ie where your eyeballs meet the eyepieces). Rather I mean the angle the microscope looks at the workpiece. To do this with a microscope, I use a direct-line binocular optical scope (ie it doesn't have that 45 degree prism in it that your optical scope does) on a flexible 'gooseneck' mount with a Barlow lens and an adjustable LED ring light. This way I get a nice natural 'angled' view of the workpiece, i have plenty of space for tools, and neither my tools nor my hands get in the way of my view... I bought mine on eBay (search for "AmScope 8X Binocular Gooseneck Arm Stereo Microscope"). It's maybe difficult to describe but is a relatively cheap and simple system. Let me know if you want to see my setup and I can make a quick youtube vid for you...
Very impressive, i could well see it being a game changer (especially for folk who's eyes have started to cause trouble), and the functionality certainly seems to be there. I'd agree on the need for a rack and pinion on the main upright (or at least the option for one) for users like us who will be moving things up and down (that jolting is the sort of thing that could end up cracking the plastic casing on the screen, or solder joints on the electronic components over time. Sadly out of my price range right now too but it's certainly something i could see myself saving up for in the future.
Oh yes, did the scope come preloaded with it's software ? I'd suggest grabbing a master copy of the app (and scope software if possible) and putting them away on a well labelled card/SSD/DVD just in case you need them in a few years time, and the ones available on the manufacturers site/the web are only for newer versions of the machine.
Thank you. the rack and pinon is the biggest design flaw and hopefully they will read my emails and the comments here to do a future upgrade. Its a good scope but it does feel a bit cheaply made but you have to play the quality off against the features. Its why I think if it was a little cheaper it would outweigh some of its shortcomings. Thanks for your comment.
It seems like a game changer. Does it have a straight HDMI to USB out or similar, so I could maybe run a live capture in a PC? I'm eagerly anticipating seeing the Omega come to life, and very pleased to see the return of Tiny Bug!
It has hdmi out but if you use that the screen is disabled so you have one or another. For the PC connection you use a micro usb from the scope to a normal in the pc but again it cancels out the screen. It was nice to see the bug much more closely than last time. Some type of lice I think. Bloody nuisance really. Part of bing in the garage rather than the house…
...Mike when you calibrate the scope you should draw the line starting from the left side of the mark and go until the left side of the next mark (not to its right border like you did)...if you include the full thikness of the marks in your calibration when you multiply your "calibrated" mm by two or three this will make a larger distance than 2mm or 3mm (hope I made myself clear 😂)...
I spent all my working life looking down a light microscope. Kit made by Olympus or Nikon with a similar capability would have cost 5-10K then so the price is a bargain. Good to see you looking your old self again.
Hi Mike, great video. The loupe on your glasses that you mentioned at 10:10, is ir one of the Donegan USA from Cousins? I'm looking at getting the x10 one but wanted to know your thoughts.
@@nitennr1087 I can’t live without mine. Don’t buy the double lens ones because they stick out too much. When using the higher power usually the lens arm hits the movement holder ! They are plastic but fit well and the best solution. I don’t know how I cope before !
A Barlow lense you use in combination with one of your lenses, for example if you have a 2x barlow lense your 10x magnifying lens combined with the Barlow dus 20x, 3 lenses become 6 lenses so to say, a 0.5 barlow makes from 10 a 5...if i remember well etc.. I know Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide uses Barlow lenses with his microscopes.. And I do with my telescopes :)
I have a Barlow for my telescope but not on this plus for this microscope it’s not really needed I don’t need the power it has as we do not need to get to the X360 closeness
I'm not quite at 7 minutes in. Questions: 1. Can the display be separate from the camera, or is it an integral unit? 2. If the display was lower, and at the base of the stand, could you look at it while also looking peripherally at the watch?
The display is attached to the scope lens so you can’t remove. You can use HDMI to a TV or monitor but you would then loose the picture on the display as it’s transferred to the monitor. Second question I guess is answered given you can’t remove it. I guess if you put it on a small monitor or anything that accepts HDMI in you could put it close to the working area.
Im curious about the direct down view and the issues you mentioned with screes and such. Is it possible to have the camera position angled to a degree of what we would normally be viewing the movement at with s loupe or visor? Then the vieeing perspective would be similar to that? Not sure if it is possible to do or if anyone has tried it. Please let me know your thoughts and experiences.
Hi Brian, there are a few things I forgot to put in the video but think in a few months I will do an update. The screen itself can be moved to face the ceiling or the floor (nearly) so you do have control of that but also the back post it all sits on that I moan about needing a rack and pinion can be moved forwards or backwards. Its bolted on and lose enough to move. I have that on the little andonstar one but never reall found much use for it. Hope that answers you question.
I didn’t order it they sent it me… Look at my Andonstar video from over a year ago. The linkmicro on this video is much bigger. That said I still only use my stereoscope for proper work.
I forgot to say in the video that recording on the microscope does not capture any sound (just like my Andonstar) this might not be important for many but for me to get video footage in sync with other camera footage and the sound capture can be quite a challenge.
I have also suggested to LinkMicro that they should perhaps consider making a model bespoke for our hobby with features we would find useful like a light in the base so we can inspect jewels etc. Hopefully they will read the comments too!
We can only try....
That's an even better idea, a specialist watchmakers' version.
Whatever else this is, it's definately great for closeups, I don't think i've seen dried up oil illustrations as good as that before.
Great video. I'm in the market for a microscope for watchmaking. Wondered what your take on (for a few £ more) on Amiscope boom with camera port?
Might I also suggest that, if you could, record your volume a bit higher? I have to put the volume on my end to the max just to be able to ear it properly…
@@gori277 I don’t have this problem on my laptop as I usually set the levels high
You mentioned that the slide stand had a light in it, could you not have put the movement block on that(with the light on) to inspect the jewels????
Just a thought, i would have tried that.
And i must say, i have watched more than a dozen, maybe more of microscope 😊"reviews" and everyone just seemed to be more interested in showing electronic works, and i thank you very much that you have virtually answered the most important question which is...."the height"away from the object so watch hobbiest can get their hands right in there to work. I have been looking at an Andonstar that has a longer post at the back, and an endoscope camera as well which comes up on a quarter of the 10" screen. Im thinkin, i might be getting it as it kinda tick all the boxes for me, i will be getting as an extra, a barlow lense with the unit. So lets see how i go.
Thanks again for a top notch review.
Mike.
I'm definitely sold on this, getting one. I had to pack in watch servicing a while ago due to ageing eyesight and was waiting until I could afford a reasonably priced digital microscope . This is the one for me. Thanks for the great review.
Superb! Let me know how you get on. Link in the description (could give me a kickback if you purchase from it)
@@MyRetroWatches Will do.
Hi Mike. Thanks to your videos I went from watch modding used and some new Seiko divers to performing a full service on the movements. I can get my vintage 6309s to +- a few seconds a day (dial up) with beat errors better than some of my brand new expensive watches. Your videos have helped me tremendously! Thanks
Gene, Clinton Twp, Michigan
Wow thanks for that feedback. Really pleased you have found my content useful. I think the 6309 videos were years ago and probably not the best quality . Ironically the Seiko I mention that is next to be filmed (using the scope) is a 6309. I recorded the disassembly last night! stay tuned for that video in a few weeks.
Looked it up in wiki: In microscopy the Barlow lens is used to increase working distance and decrease magnification. The lenses are "objective lenses" that are mounted in front of the microscope's last objective element. Barlow lenses for microscopes can be found with magnifications ranging from 0.3× to 2×. Some standard lenses are 2×, which decreases the working distance by half and doubles the magnification, 0.75× (3/4×), which increases the working distance by 4/3× (1.33×) and decreases the magnification by 0.75×, and a 0.5× Barlow doubles the working distance and halves the magnification.
Ever heard of a Mantis scope?Where I used to work,they were an industrial distributor of precision measuring tools,Calipers,Micrometers and my particular specialty,the tiny Test Indicators.If you are not familiar with the term test indicator,ask any machinist.They are used for so many things.The biggest advantage of the Mantis system is that you sit up straight looking into what looks like a small TV screen instead of peering through the typical microscope eyeports.Even glasses wearer can use it.While what I did was not watch repair,I used the same skills learned in watch school, oiling jewel bearings and dealing with the pesky hairsprings.Keep in mind, this was 20 something years ago.The watchmakers influence was clear in how these mechanisms were made,plates aligned with pins,hairsprings held with taper pins,the shape of the pivots,jeweled bearings,also some ball bearing instead of jewels,depending on where and how the part in question functioned.
The best part was sitting upright instead of bent over,all hunched over....and it had its own built-in LED lights ring.There was also a SLWD (SUPER LONG WORKING DISTANCE) lens available,meaning there was room to use tweezers and screwdrivers.These can sometines be found on eBay very reasonably.
Thank you Mike. Great information and advice. As a result of your earlier video on digital microscope I obtained a 7" Chinese microscope. Has most of the systems that your new one has. I made a wooden block to extend the height and can view 95% of the watch, so it allows me to work as you did. And it has a lens light. As you say, a game changer. I watch your videos and learn so much. Take care. Keep safe.
Thank you Ross. a ring light is good, I have one for my main camera (although its playing up for some reason) only issue with that is you can get the reflection of it in jewels and with glass like a crystal so it can bother me for making videos for the channel anyway as I am always trying to improve the quality of the videos in the vain hope of more people watching them.
I agree, $200-$230 would be a better price point. The software is a big plus. The image quality is MUCH better than the $74 unit I bought a few years ago. Its stand leaves a lot to be desired also. Thanks for the review.
This looks pretty cool...and i agree, a scope is a life saver! I work under a scope at my job, and purchased the same brand for at home with the watches. I'm familiar with them, they are good quality. I purchased a Meiji EMT. Had to purchase an led ring light, but its great. Super vid Mike!
I’ve just found perspective difficult like oiling a post or pallet as looking at a screen I can’t get my depth of field
@My Retro Watches I hear ya...I often use mine on the balance jewels...and I'm always paranoid as I bring my tool close thinking I'm gonna stab the hair spring...
Mike, I have recently played around with using my iPhone as a cam via QuickTime Player or whatever video feed app is on Windows. It is MUCH better than any of the small cams/scopes with 7" monitor, and almost everyone has both phone and computer already. Image quality is excellent, recordings are excellent and zoom is great-cam stays away from work area. Maybe a video on a simple smartphone setup? Regards...Jack The Cat
Looks like the the biggest advantage would be ergonomics, less eye, neck and upper back strain. You adapted to the head/hand disconnect completely intuitively. May be the pinging problem would be mitigated at least to a small extent by videoing spring activities (maybe even in high speed) to allow replays in slo mo to at least see the general direction the fourth dimension lies in. Great video as usual, well done.
Thank you. I was also surprised on my ability to work under it in such a way. I had said over the years that I did not think working under such scopes would be easy due to that odd way of looking at a screen whist working. You do loose that depth of field like when you want to oil a post. You are thinking am I above the post or in the right place! I think with time I can master that part. Saving my back and eyes is a real game changer for me. With the scope being so big I think you could also build a shield from cardboard to go around the base so if you did have a ping moment it would bounce off and contain it within your working area, as long as the ping did not fly towards you! (they often do!)
Great review. I have neck and back issues and this would make a huge difference for me.
Glad you found it useful. This would save your back for sure.
Thank you for a great video !!!!! and a glimpse of micro bench creatures !!!!!
haha.. not sure which video it was when one of these was in the movement but at least now we see one much clearer!
It comes with a lightbox for microbial work. Perhaps use it under the movement holder for illuminating jewels from beneath.
Possibly. I remember a discussion in my facebook group about the andonstar stope that a member had bought some small led strip light that he slid under the movement holder to give him that functionality. Maybe in a few months I might do an update video on this scope, how it could be improved and any workarounds to mitigate some of the shortcomings.
Very good and understandable review. Very nice filmed and edited too. You've helped me a lot! Thanks!
Your welcome. Glad you enjoyed it
Meant to comment when you posted this. Let me introduce myself, watch guy meet microscope guy. I'm a microscope service tech. Anyway one thing you talked about with the digital scope you bought was poor working distance and I wanted to let you know (if you did already then I apologize) that there are quite a few stereo scopes with long working distances. I was servicing a couple yesterday with 6 & 8" of space. The ones I deal with are optical analog but there are digital scopes with decent working distance too. 😊
I mentioned boom arm stereoscopes but you pay good money for them which most hobbyist watchmakers do not have £300-500 for a scope available. Many start with the AM scope that I have on my bench which i like but you can’t work under it , not that I would normally solely work under a scope for watch making anyway.
It’s a question asked to me all the time and that’s why I took on this review to show there are affordable options digitally that clearly can be used with the added function of recording plus the measuring software.
I would always prefer a stereo over digital but as mentioned the cost makes them very prohibitive
I'm a student at a vocational school of watchmaking in Japan, and your video helped me a lot.
Nobody around me is using digital one and doesn't have any review, so thanks for sharing.
A stereoscope is better because you have more perspective on where everything is. A screen does not give you perspective.
@@MyRetroWatches That's pretty important point, thank you for telling me. I'm also curious about the time lagging of screen. Did you find any difficulty about it?
@@takuyatakehisa there is no lag.
I have used this scope in every repair video since this review.
Really enjoyed watching this vid, so nearly 12 months on and the question is now would you be without it ?
Thank you for sharing those honesty tests. Really helpful for the community.
Thank you.
Superb video and channel. I’ve literally just bought this scope on the back of your review. It’s on an Amazon deal at the moment for £250 gbp. Thank you for your content
Hope you enjoy it!
@@MyRetroWatches Hi, just setting it up. Seems great! Just quick question, is there a Barlow lens that I can add to this microscope for a wider view when working on the maximum height lens?
@@arthurfowler5943 personally I don’t know. I’ve never needed one. I sure there will be as people used them on the Andonstar scopes and they are basically the same brand.
Thanks Mike for the review. I brought one very similar to this only a month ago. I totally agree with the adjustment pole etc re quality. The monitor and functions I like just needs a better stand. Still getting used to mine. All the best.👍
Great review. I am about 1 month into using my Andonstar (the bigger one you can fit screwdrivers under). I find myself falling back to the loupe for two reasons- 1) I miss the three quarter view to get multiple dimensions as I’m placing the parts. 2) my hand-eye coordination for finer work is much weaker under the scope - perhaps that’s something I need to get used to.
Hi Chris, I can agree with you. We loose depth of field with the screen view. I do not have that issue with my stereoscope. I think in time you can learn and adapt but to carry out a full service under the scope is not viable it would still be a combination of scope and a loupe. I demonstrated that with not being able to fit the balance! Appreciate your feedback as always and thanks for watching.
Great video. Picking up from some of the comments, I have tilted the column of my basic Andonstar back until I can work with a screwdriver viewed at an angle. I will give it a try and see how it goes. I only have one good eye and have tried all sorts of loupes but would prfer to use a microscope with a screen.
Great video, Mike! How about... Instead of painting the base white, you cut a green Matt to fit the surface held in place with some tabs of double sided tape (at the corners)? I've done this with my new digital microscope, and it's better on the eye's. Worth a shot to see if you like it. You can always do what you're already doing with the white paper for clear views of the jewels. Thanks for the awesome information you share, it really helps us!
That's not a bad idea! I do have an old green mat or even one of my blue ones I have not used in years . I will get my scissors!
The Andonstar AD249S 10.1 Inch is basically the same then the one in this video but for the same price, around 280€ you get the HDMI on the Andonstar were at the LinkMicro you pay almost 100€ more for that.
Andonstar and LinkMicro are actually the same company. My Andonstar has the same software as the bigger one but the bigger one with changeable lenses , bigger height to work under and the laptop software is much more usable . I doubt I will use my Andonstar again now.
My favorite watch magician!! Have a great weekend!! Greetings from Chile!!
Thank you. Hope you are well.
Thinking of getting into watch repair and microscope like this one I think would be for me. Great video really interesting thanks
The diameter tool looks handy to see if the hole is out of round?
You could buy a small white nylon chopping board, cut to shape of the base, double sided tape it.
Just remove when you want.
Good review.
Thank You Mike for this excellent video. - What a useful tool microscope for many uses.
Brilliant Both.
What an excellent video Mike, I love it ! You can work more precisely, inspections of parts in the same time, is a good tool to have for sure. By the way it a great video, image, explanation, music, double screen shot, that’s perfect ! Thank you for sharing, this video will surely be a reference when time will come to by one !!
My salutation from Canada !!
As always Alain thank you for your kind words.
It is a game changer for sure. I bought my scope 3 years ago off your link and use it for inspection to this day. You're right: hand-to-scope-to-eye is the most challenging to overcome especially after being so used to loupe work. I dont have a digital scope like yours but an AmScope boom scope 7x43 with a Barlow lens and LED light. I go between that and my trusty loupe.
Great video Mike.
Very helpful Video. Ordered one from Amazon off the back of your review. Will be interesting to see how I get on with it. Thanks
Hope you like it. I’ve used mine a lot since the review.
Some great information. I enjoyed the video as always. Thanks Mike
Great video Mike
Very informative and useful - well done!
Simon
Hiya, great to meet you at the watch fair the other day, great stuff mate.
In the past I have used sticky vinyl to put underneath. A roll for a Cricut machine is inexpensive and you can get colors very close to the blue/green that we like to use.
I see today your microscope congratulations I hope your work of art now flourish more. A soldier with his arms called soldier.
Another great review Mike. Having been through the microscope journey I have found the best solution for me is an Amscope Trinocular 7x45 Stereo double arm - basically had to suck up and take the hit on cost but as you say an absolute game changer. With the cost, if I add up the cost of the ones bought that don't work well enough and the time saved with the amscope it is well worth it.
I’m sure that’s a nice model if it’s the one I am thinking of it’s around $500 . Up until now I’ve mainly just used loupes and been okay other than microscope for filming or inspection
The magnification shows how lint can be introduced into the mechanism from the tips of the tweezers
Indeed. The good thing is you are more likely to see it. I can miss this sometimes under the cameras because I am not 100% focused on what I am doing due to talking or making sure the shot is right. Going forward this scope will be very useful to mitigate some of that issue.
@@MyRetroWatches great results, like watching a watch landscape!
Hi Mike. From the POV of price, when you take into consideration the price of some of the tools, especially the likes of Bergeon, £250ish isn't too bad for what it is.
Of course Simon but for me its all about the beginners, once you are hooked on the hobby you can easily justify costs of tools as you can see the benefit but at the beginning, at least for me the thought of a timegrapher being £100+ was a daunting prospect. I am now also fortunate that I can just about raise enough money from the channel advert revenue to support the hobby without coming out of the household running cost fund. A cheaper scope with this functionality if shown to the community would sell more I think, saying that the comments here today are very positive so I must have done the review well.
I was saying the same thing for $ 300.00 US dollars you are get a lot of features for that price to me It's worth the price its a multi-use microscope from watch repair to clock repair and if your into woodworking and get a peskie wood splinter that microscope would come in handy ...
Excellent stuff fancy doing my seiko kinetic after my failed attempt to change the capacitor and a tale of woe should be great content
I'm in the market for a microscope so I'll definately be looking at this, thanks for the informative video. Thumbs up !!!
Thank you Stephen, Good luck with your choice. I am really pleased with this one despite some of its shortcomings. Either way when you purchase a scope you will be pleased with the new watchmaking world you will be looking at!
Great video Mike. Thanks for sharing this information. It definitely helps me to make a qualified decision on what my next purchase should be. Well done 👍
I have a cheaper one and yes, it has the problem of limited space. BUT: you can unscrew a little the main bar, turn it of 180 degrees, secure it and put the base on a higher plane. The only problem is that you MUST put som weight on the bas to make it stable. Cheers, Mike
Thanks Mike!
Interesting review. I am looking for a good digital microscope and I cannot believe that for the money there was no rack fitted for zooming in and out!
There is but not on the main pillar. There is a smaller rack behind the screen which gives you some good motion .
By contrast I have a Tomlov in for review too and this has the same weakness
Seeing all the bits & pieces being dismantled & put back together, reminds me of videos on how to dismantle & rebuild an iPhone, but on a smaller scale.
It's possible to dismantle & rebuild an iPhone by eye & hand alone, while trying to dismantle & rebuild a watch without adequate apparatus, such as a camera scope, or table top magnifying glass, is just impossible!
Helpful.. i know nothing .. but buying my Brother one ...
Excellent stuff Mike!
Super helpful to see your extensive real-world use. I have been considering one of the big AmScope setups but at nearly $1000 for the whole package, it's been more than I was comfortable spending as a total hobbyist. This does look like a good compromise. So appreciative of your honest and realistic review!
Glad it was helpful I do like those proper AM scopes and would have one if funds were not an issue. This has many plus points and is a good compromise. For me it is already now in use for future videos including the firemans watch video I put up last week.
My experience is soldering on PCBs. I found stereo microscopes to be my best choice.
I found heads up microscopes to be no good for me.
Those with a screen had no depth so trying to place the soldering iron and tweezers was difficult.
Another type of heads up had 3d depth. It accomplished it with an optical trick of a spinning disk. But the light from the subject was greatly attenuated so the illumination had to be very strong. VERY strong. Blinding. I you looked down at the subject for just a second your eyes would get blinded and be no good for a couple minutes.
Man alive, you are a fast adapter! I really really like it, and luckily enough I haven't purchased one yet as a newbie. Unless something falls off and breaks by the end of the video (I'm about halfway through) it has just rocketed to the top of my "to buy" list. I will wait for a while to hear your next evaluations (good, because I have to save up for it) but I was very impressed. Until now I've held off on buying one for the very reason that they've all looked difficult to work under. I want to jump in, "crack on!" and learn it once.
I have other uses for it besides watch repair. I do some electrical Arduino type hobby work and I'm about to get into light engraving, and this would be good for those purposes also. Everything is cooler somehow with a good microscope. I've had the same file corruption problem with a regular 64GB USB dongle while making backups of my other work, so it's not an egregious fault (always WAIT and EJECT the media!)
...pausing while I finish the video...
OK I've seen through to the end now and you've done a great job pointing out the +/ -. As someone who has never used a microscope for this before, I would be learning it fresh, sans any remorse or "unlearning/relearning" from prior purchases. The flaws can be corrected or lived with. I would put a plastic cap on the main tube just for cosmetics - it looks a bit rough at the edges - am I missing it? White paint on the base - or better yet - maybe even a thin sheet of white (nonslippery), removable adhesive vinyl so it can be removed and help prevent "rogue" parts that hit the base from rolling too far. Then some elbow grease on the vertical adjustment to fabricate something and quiet it down, etc. The price is a little steep for me too but it may come down some while I save up. The 10" screen HDMI version is $279 on my Amazon and so far, it's a compelling buy. I was struck by the image quality right out of the box. I only have the use of one eye (my right) while I wait to have a cataracted lens replaced, so stereo microscopes do nothing for me at the moment. I already have a pretty good loupe for those "weird moments."
Thank you again for your honest and thorough review - I thought it deserved a bit of a long reply. I can also buy it with 12 monthly payments. Amazon is offering a $20 off coupon, and if I can finagle business pricing (another 8% off) I could get it for $239.19. I think this is the one for me!
Stay strong, Mike! 💪🙏We're so glad to have you around with us.
Thank you for your detailed replay. Also pleased liked my review. Like I said at the beginning I did not want to BS and say its fantastic etc just because I would feel obliged to seeing as I am given it. If I am recommending something for our hobby then I need to test it honestly and thoroughly so I am hoping my test in this video did that justice.
Yes there are some shortcomings and hopefully Linkmicro are listening. I have suggested to them that they design a scope for watchmaking and I would help them with it using my community to explain our needs. You never know! equally things like a rack and pinion could be added to this as an upgrade so I will badger this company to see how responsive they are. With good feedback perhaps they are willing to improve their products.
£250 is a high price but you can see the benefits so this at least gives viewers the idea of what can be achieved.
Great vid, I did purchase the "S" version and find it next to useless the AM scope is a fiddle but far easier to use, this USB scope is awful to use, but that might be me.
It’s not for everyone and I completely understand. I have an AM Scope stereo scope and I always preferred it to any digital but it has limitations , at least the one I bought in that you are restricted for working space and the x8 on mine was awful as it was too narrow a field of view with s poor focus point.
I always recommended people to only use scopes for inspection and oiling however now I have this bigger digital I find it great for on the fly photos of movements I’ve not worked on , recording shots for my videos now is also a bit plus.
To summarise I think both have merits on a bench for different jobs and for reasons above.
Yes the overall quality with the digital is a bit flaky but then for a compatible big Am scope with filming capabilities it’s x4 cheaper. The AM I wanted is over £500 last time I looked
Just an observation; when measuring diameter, it is important that your end point be exactly 180° from your start point, which can be very difficult to eyeball. Back in my aviation days, we had ball gauges which could be inserted into a hole and expanded to fill the entire hole. Then, the gauge could be removed and measured with a micrometer. I don't know if any such tools exist on a small enough scale to measure inside diameter of a watch jewel, but it's perhaps worth exploring.
My background also means I cringe a little whenever someone measures a crystal or case back with the points of a dial caliper for many of the same reasons. To ensure 180° separation between the measured points, the object should be placed all the way into the jaws of the caliper so one edge of the, say crystal is up against the rule of the caliper. this ensures thtat, as the jaws close they will stop at the exact diameter point, since the diameter is the longest distance between any two points on the perimeter of a circle.
You are quite right. I think I said in the video that its hard to place that tool in the exact position as you have no reference point. Its possible to make the magnification much larger and with each increase in power I would surmise you are making your measurement more accurate. The straight line tool is better. I still dont know when I might need this feature but its nice that its there all the same. Thanks for your comment its useful.
Thank you Mike for this very clear and honest video. Indeed, a microscope is a game changer and definitely a plus for jewel examination and final examination after the complete cleaning. Merci encore !
Thank you. I think it is important I tested most scenarios on a basic service using a microscope for everyone to make their own decision on if this is useful or not for the cost of the scope.
Hiya Mike. That's a fancy bit of kit.. nice one. Shame it hasn't got an illuminated base though. That would be awesome 💯
It is a flaw but something i am working on, I am thinking of doing an update video in a few months with some workarounds to mitigate some of the shortcomings.
@@MyRetroWatches Yes .a tiny LED and some frosted glass/ polycarbonate would probably serfice..👍
With that new microscope, the vids become even more interesting to watch. Do the screws in the bridges etc. never loosen?
Screws can loosen although its rare, it would depend on what the watch as been used for and if anyone has been inside. The next video (also using this scope) I started filming last night. That had a very loose train wheel screw. I also know why but you will have to wait for the video!
Much more interesting Michael, thanks. Never apologise for working on Seiko :)
I often get accused of working on too many Seikos which is not actually that true. I think I have covered 20 other brands on the channel .
@@MyRetroWatches You are the Seiko Man Michael, just accept it :) Yes your back catalogue is very varied.
Your almost in my world . I know you have a bard eye . But yes it's a game changer .I have about ten inches of work area with my scope 99% of my work is done with a scope like your AM two eyes and a camera port . Good vid 😊
Marvelous, congrats
Great video Mike, thanks for sharing👍
thanks mate
Very informative. Thank you.
You could have stopped at "It's easier on my back". I really need that. I've been avoiding working on watches more because it kills my back these days. So hmmm...., I may just make that leap. Thanks for another great video. Cheers.
haha.
Thanks for the in-depth video, Mike. A couple of points about the Andonstar (which I have) mine came without a remote control but I bought one separately trusting that it would work with the Andonstar and it does - the one you were using appears to be the same one so I suggest you try it with the Andonstar. Also, you can clamp the Andonstar right at the bottom of its lens to give you more height. The LinkMicro one certainly looks the business so I look forward to watching your next video using it.
LinkMicro and Andonstar I think are the same company. I omitted this from the video as I have no proof. The cables are the same, remote and boot up screen . So they are either the same or using generic hardware/software.
Yes I know you can put the Andonstar on the high setting as I found that out in the comments on the Andonstar review .
Due to the size of this one in comparison , well there is no comparison I am doubtful I will use the Andonstar again to be honest.
Excellent video, love it
Hi Mike, ive noticed that Andonstar have upgraded their stands to a “pro” stand which i think gives 13” length. Its tiltable back and forth, so I was wondering that if you could only buy one microscope for working under, would you go digital or standard optical version. I am tempted my the new andonstars but not sure what the difference is between the AD 407 and AD249 versions. I am brand new to the hobby and would like a microscope in the not too distant future as like you, am a spectacle wearer and dont really like head mounted or loupes for magnification. Any advice?
@@jndfishing4693 it’s a tough one. I have 3 scopes now , 2 digital and one stereo. I use the stereo all the time to work on and the digital for filming mainly and some really close inspection.
I still do most work with a loupe and I have bought Donegan glasses eyeloupe. I actually have 2 powers but the main one is x3
They are far from cheap but what I use daily.
When I was starting out I just bought an optivisor from cousins uk for about £15 that had a light in it and 4 lenses . I still own it now (actually I have 2) and still use it for jobs. You can continue to wear your glasses with it. I think it’s linked on my website in tool sales page.
You only need a scope for your inspection and certain key jobs.
Most professional will not ever use them and just get by with a loupe. Just bear that in mind
Great video. Music was great also.
Thank you.
You can work under an amscope that is on an arm mount and using a barlow lens something like a .5
At 23:25, on calibration units, "mil" is the Imperial unit of 1/1000 inch, also known as "thou" in UK.
Why did I not know this! Thank you I’m pleased it does imperial then as I did think that was limiting .
E com muito capricho a manutenção de relógio que você faz.
Faz um tutorial também, com prioridade da lubrificação dos relógio automático de pulso.
Sporting my Pagani Design Doxa today, abs perfect little thing and the NH38 hasn't dropped a second since firing it up :) Today the Weishi is out, going to finally regulate my triple crown Mortima based world timer, got the caseback off the damn thing last night with some industrial superglue and my go to big flanged nut, runs just a touch fast and fully degaussed but has a lusty tick to it so on the Weishi it will go :D Hope finds you and yours well :)
Hi Mike I noticed on the video that you’re unscrewing multiple screws at the same time instead of one at a time, something you said you shouldn’t do - have you changed opinion on this ?
I am now much more experienced and less likely to have mishaps with screws or plates. If I am recommending methods then this is to help beginners. Anyone that’s more experienced already has their technique
I think with more use, you will find it easier, and far better for your posture. Your frustration putting the balance in was plain to see. Great revive and nice movement. Keep safe and have a fabulous weekend buddy.
Thanks Darren, Its a new way for me to do things and I am looking forward to using it more. Balance I think will always be done with a loupe!!
when it comes to vertical workspace under the lens ithe tomlov DM602 has plenty...
Hi Mike. I have found this review both extremely interesting and entertaining, I am currently engrossed in expanding my knowledge and skills in both the watch and electronics areas so this microscope could be a game changer for me. Cost as for everyone is a challenge but as it would cover both fields of interest for me I could kid myself its half price for each lol. My only observation is the screen seems very claustrophobic perched right at the front, my preference would be for it to be mounted off the back upright giving a slightly less in your face affect but it does seem most of these types are like this design. It would only be a short cable issue and i am probably the only person finding it an issue. In actual use it may feel very different but watching you it seemed you had to move around the screen at times. Overall though highly rated the product just have to justify the cost now!!!! Thank you for your amazing content
Hi Mike. I’m thinking of getting one of these for the reasons you give but also for manipulation of hairsprings. Have you tried doing that sort of work?
Difficult. I’m still much preferring my stereoscope for jobs like that. I think looking down the scope gives me a good sense of depth whereas with the digital it still feels a bit alien. So similar money you can get the AMscope with a boom arm which gives you more room to work under.
I’m currently trying to save for a triscope so I can record whilst using the scope over my eyes. These are £500 plus £200 for the camera so I am trying to justify it right now.
What is the measuring app you used in this video and where can it be found?
Comes with the scope
like your overall honest approach- no faffing, down to earth.
also like your choice in women, if i may say so- was born czech, family fled to germany in 1980 when i was still a baby...lol
do toho!
Thank you on both counts!
Hi
Could you give me advice,
Omega seamaster 300 midsize quartz 2006 year or 2003 automatic.
Thanks
Thanks so much for this video
Great vid as always. I've been looking at the LinkMicro and a review of it elsewhere. The other review said it's pretty good for observation mainly but not for working with tools under it. He said that the hand under the lenses blocks the view of the tool being used. On your vid you didn't mention any such problem so I thought I'd ask - did you find that working under the LinkMicro lenses was cumbersome in this regard?
No. Your hands can be in the way with tightening screws but I would be doing that by eye and a loupe rather than just on the scope.
Just bought mine! They're $198 now. I received a $150 gift card for applying for an Amazon card... So I paid $48 for that awesome microscope!
Now I have to cancel that damn Amazon credit card.
Looks very good, might be interested if there was a discount code
...amazing clarity that microscope Mike 👍....btw where did you get that small lens attached to your glasses? thanks
Cousinsuk they are not cheap but I have tried all the cheap versions and not got on with any of them. These seem a good brand and will fit to any glasses. www.cousinsuk.com/product/watchmakers-loupes-donegan-usa
@@MyRetroWatches ...thanks Mike 👍 ...great guy as always 👍
How do you find any delay in image from you moving your tool to the image displaying on the screen? A lot of systems I have seen including cheaper models that even use a smart phone all have too much delay in movement showing on the screen. It's only milliseconds but that's enough to throw me off. Just starting my watch making journey but being middle aged and poor eye sight I am going to need something like this. Or i might just get decent twin loupes to use.
I dont have any lag on this. If I did I would not be able to work under it like I did in this video and restortation videos I have done since this one.
Very informative video and high-quality editing. Thank you for your hard work and detailed story. I liked the device, but you need to get used to it.
I am using it now for another video coming soon. I hope it will become part of my main camera setup for videos.
Watchmakers sit with their arms at about the height of their table, which is higher than the normal 29-30 inches of a worktaable or desk.. It looks really odd, but since so many watch builders do it that way there must be advantages. With this new device the table working height should be optimized for the size of the individual worker. I use an optomotrist's stool with a good cushion and variable height and backrest position to get my arms in a comfortable possition, depending on the work project. Since I only have standard height tables and desks, I need a stool with easily adjustable height.
The high height of a workbench is to make it easier to see as you are not bending down so much. Most watchmakers will not use a microscope and just use eyeloupes.
Now that's what I call a Mikeroscope!
One of the biggest problems (I reckon) for microscopes is that they look directly "downwards" onto the watch face. That is a VERY unnatural way of looking at things. it makes judging depth and distances difficult, and the tools always seem to be hitting the 'scope AND are directly blocking your line of sight.
Much better, (I reckon) to look at he workpiece from an angle, say 45 degrees. Note here that I'm not talking about the angle you look INTO the microscope (ie where your eyeballs meet the eyepieces). Rather I mean the angle the microscope looks at the workpiece.
To do this with a microscope, I use a direct-line binocular optical scope (ie it doesn't have that 45 degree prism in it that your optical scope does) on a flexible 'gooseneck' mount with a Barlow lens and an adjustable LED ring light. This way I get a nice natural 'angled' view of the workpiece, i have plenty of space for tools, and neither my tools nor my hands get in the way of my view...
I bought mine on eBay (search for "AmScope 8X Binocular Gooseneck Arm Stereo Microscope").
It's maybe difficult to describe but is a relatively cheap and simple system. Let me know if you want to see my setup and I can make a quick youtube vid for you...
Very impressive, i could well see it being a game changer (especially for folk who's eyes have started to cause trouble), and the functionality certainly seems to be there. I'd agree on the need for a rack and pinion on the main upright (or at least the option for one) for users like us who will be moving things up and down (that jolting is the sort of thing that could end up cracking the plastic casing on the screen, or solder joints on the electronic components over time. Sadly out of my price range right now too but it's certainly something i could see myself saving up for in the future.
Oh yes, did the scope come preloaded with it's software ? I'd suggest grabbing a master copy of the app (and scope software if possible) and putting them away on a well labelled card/SSD/DVD just in case you need them in a few years time, and the ones available on the manufacturers site/the web are only for newer versions of the machine.
Thank you. the rack and pinon is the biggest design flaw and hopefully they will read my emails and the comments here to do a future upgrade. Its a good scope but it does feel a bit cheaply made but you have to play the quality off against the features. Its why I think if it was a little cheaper it would outweigh some of its shortcomings. Thanks for your comment.
It seems like a game changer. Does it have a straight HDMI to USB out or similar, so I could maybe run a live capture in a PC? I'm eagerly anticipating seeing the Omega come to life, and very pleased to see the return of Tiny Bug!
It has hdmi out but if you use that the screen is disabled so you have one or another. For the PC connection you use a micro usb from the scope to a normal in the pc but again it cancels out the screen.
It was nice to see the bug much more closely than last time.
Some type of lice I think.
Bloody nuisance really. Part of bing in the garage rather than the house…
...Mike when you calibrate the scope you should draw the line starting from the left side of the mark and go until the left side of the next mark (not to its right border like you did)...if you include the full thikness of the marks in your calibration when you multiply your "calibrated" mm by two or three this will make a larger distance than 2mm or 3mm (hope I made myself clear 😂)...
I thought I went from left to left. If it was wrong then the measurements I got would have been well out with the micrometer readings of the parts .
@@MyRetroWatches ...yes sorry...I looked again and you did it correctly....sorry I was watching the vid on a small screen...apologies
I spent all my working life looking down a light microscope. Kit made by Olympus or Nikon with a similar capability would have cost 5-10K then so the price is a bargain.
Good to see you looking your old self again.
Hi Mike, great video. The loupe on your glasses that you mentioned at 10:10, is ir one of the Donegan USA from Cousins? I'm looking at getting the x10 one but wanted to know your thoughts.
Yes. I only use x3. A x10 or larger would be way too powerful for just general use .
I use a bergeon 2 1/2 for general work which I think is x4 I need a higher magnification for inspection. Would you recommend these?
@@nitennr1087 I can’t live without mine. Don’t buy the double lens ones because they stick out too much. When using the higher power usually the lens arm hits the movement holder ! They are plastic but fit well and the best solution. I don’t know how I cope before !
Cheers Mike, Definitely, going to pick one up. It'll keep me going till I shell out for one of these microscopes.
What if there were double lenses, or a mirror/prism mechanism so you could get depth of field, I guess by wearing 3D glasses lol
A Barlow lense you use in combination with one of your lenses, for example if you have a 2x barlow lense your 10x magnifying lens combined with the Barlow dus 20x, 3 lenses become 6 lenses so to say, a 0.5 barlow makes from 10 a 5...if i remember well etc.. I know Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide uses Barlow lenses with his microscopes.. And I do with my telescopes :)
I have a Barlow for my telescope but not on this plus for this microscope it’s not really needed I don’t need the power it has as we do not need to get to the X360 closeness
I'm not quite at 7 minutes in. Questions: 1. Can the display be separate from the camera, or is it an integral unit? 2. If the display was lower, and at the base of the stand, could you look at it while also looking peripherally at the watch?
The display is attached to the scope lens so you can’t remove. You can use HDMI to a TV or monitor but you would then loose the picture on the display as it’s transferred to the monitor.
Second question I guess is answered given you can’t remove it. I guess if you put it on a small monitor or anything that accepts HDMI in you could put it close to the working area.
@@MyRetroWatches So, there is room for improvement / engineering.
The measurment aspect is interesting and could be useful
Thanks mate!
Im curious about the direct down view and the issues you mentioned with screes and such. Is it possible to have the camera position angled to a degree of what we would normally be viewing the movement at with s loupe or visor? Then the vieeing perspective would be similar to that? Not sure if it is possible to do or if anyone has tried it. Please let me know your thoughts and experiences.
Hi Brian, there are a few things I forgot to put in the video but think in a few months I will do an update. The screen itself can be moved to face the ceiling or the floor (nearly) so you do have control of that but also the back post it all sits on that I moan about needing a rack and pinion can be moved forwards or backwards. Its bolted on and lose enough to move. I have that on the little andonstar one but never reall found much use for it. Hope that answers you question.
I have the model first one shown,
I didn’t order it they sent it me…
Look at my Andonstar video from over a year ago. The linkmicro on this video is much bigger.
That said I still only use my stereoscope for proper work.
I think I saw one of your vids a while back, how're you doing these days?