It feels like this is trying to avoid learning one of the most important skills in trial riding, the use of the clutch. You don't need the clutch when riding in a low gear, but mastering the use of the clutch significantly improves your riding and is also a safety factor. But it all ultimately comes down to what you want from trial riding. The easiest path is not always the best path to learn.
I geared my TRS 250 down and won’t go back. When I need speed, I have a gearbox. Now 2nd is more friendly for my sportsman level. SPA to you Trials Inc guys
@@jimsstuff35 I also did the light plate on my 250 and it performs well for me. I don’t have an issue on waist high walls and can train all day and not have a cramped finger.
With Montesa if you have 290cc to 300cc engine my suggestion is to change chain wheel from std 41 teeths to 39, in this way 1st gear is more usable and 2nd/3rd have longer range on ramps. With my 260, even if hardly powered by my remapping, I think standard 41 chain wheel is the better solution. Generally having shorter gearing only means using one gear more for obstacles right for the previous gear... and finally means loosing use of first gear.
Agreed. One of the first things I did to my Beta Evo 200 - went from 11 tooth to 10 tooth front sprocket. Though I will say after learning to ride smoothly with the clutch always at the engagement point it probably makes less difference than with the clutch fully engaged.
There's so much emphasis on going slow that it's hindering many beginners progress. I know it's not MX but many beginners have a really tough time making it over the easiest rock or log because they won't use enough throttle. You really need to make a video about this.
That's actually a really good point. For most beginner obstacles, all you need is a little speed and weight back to keep the front light. Maybe I will make a video on this very thing 👍
Agreed. In the old days 1960s this is how we did it. We ordinary folk had to modify old street bikes. Geared down a LOT more than one tooth to the point where it could climb a brick wall just about. Most importantly the low gearing gave enormous leverage without wheel spin. Why do we think 4x4s have low range?
On my TRS, 9 tooth on the front was too low for me, ended up going up 2 teeth on the rear and it's pretty much perfect, both for trials sections and trail riding.
Not talking about acceleration. This is more about going slower in a section with the clutch out, or while slipping the clutch. Slower Riding is usually more controlled, which is often what we need. But you are correct. Gearing a bike up to produce higher top speed with less acceleration is done using a larger countershaft (gearbox) sprocket or a smaller rear sprocket. Gearing a bike down giving it more acceleration with lower top speed is done using a smaller countershaft (gearbox) sprocket or a larger rear sprocket.
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
It feels like this is trying to avoid learning one of the most important skills in trial riding, the use of the clutch. You don't need the clutch when riding in a low gear, but mastering the use of the clutch significantly improves your riding and is also a safety factor.
But it all ultimately comes down to what you want from trial riding.
The easiest path is not always the best path to learn.
I geared my TRS 250 down and won’t go back. When I need speed, I have a gearbox. Now 2nd is more friendly for my sportsman level. SPA to you Trials Inc guys
For sure
Yeah wheel spinning is mostly about showing off and thrill seeking
Agree with this approach and have done it to my TRS. Another similar improvement for me was putting in a lighter clutch pressure plate.
👍
@@jimsstuff35 I also did the light plate on my 250 and it performs well for me. I don’t have an issue on waist high walls and can train all day and not have a cramped finger.
With Montesa if you have 290cc to 300cc engine my suggestion is to change chain wheel from std 41 teeths to 39, in this way 1st gear is more usable and 2nd/3rd have longer range on ramps.
With my 260, even if hardly powered by my remapping, I think standard 41 chain wheel is the better solution.
Generally having shorter gearing only means using one gear more for obstacles right for the previous gear... and finally means loosing use of first gear.
Agreed. One of the first things I did to my Beta Evo 200 - went from 11 tooth to 10 tooth front sprocket. Though I will say after learning to ride smoothly with the clutch always at the engagement point it probably makes less difference than with the clutch fully engaged.
Yep. 👍
There's so much emphasis on going slow that it's hindering many beginners progress. I know it's not MX but many beginners have a really tough time making it over the easiest rock or log because they won't use enough throttle.
You really need to make a video about this.
That's actually a really good point. For most beginner obstacles, all you need is a little speed and weight back to keep the front light. Maybe I will make a video on this very thing 👍
always a smart change to make. another note, it makes a bike less jumpy off the start.
True... True ..
Agreed. In the old days 1960s this is how we did it. We ordinary folk had to modify old street bikes. Geared down a LOT more than one tooth to the point where it could climb a brick wall just about. Most importantly the low gearing gave enormous leverage without wheel spin. Why do we think 4x4s have low range?
Awesome
On my TRS, 9 tooth on the front was too low for me, ended up going up 2 teeth on the rear and it's pretty much perfect, both for trials sections and trail riding.
Very nice
You’re saying that a smaller front sprocket will decrease the acceleration? Everything im reading online says the opposite.
Not talking about acceleration. This is more about going slower in a section with the clutch out, or while slipping the clutch. Slower Riding is usually more controlled, which is often what we need.
But you are correct.
Gearing a bike up to produce higher top speed with less acceleration is done using a larger countershaft (gearbox) sprocket or a smaller rear sprocket. Gearing a bike down giving it more acceleration with lower top speed is done using a smaller countershaft (gearbox) sprocket or a larger rear sprocket.