If you tie the contacts down with fine fishing line, you can slip the line out when the switch is back together. Also good for holding magnets in place when rebuilding other components. Great video, mate. Excellent how-to and delivery.
Follow your video I dissembled my mower with confidence and found it has almost same root cause, so I was able to fix the switch which may cost $50 or more. One more trick to add is to use a metal wire bolt down the two sliding pieces first, then put the cover/board on so nothing can pop. After that, use a rubber band to fix the cover/board on, loose then pull out the metal wire, close the 5 metal tabs. All good as new. Also, I filed the copper contacts especially the ones on power side - one of the two burnt badly so make it shining and sooth helps the slide to move, now my latch will trig the mower on even if I do not hold tight the orange latch @ handle. Thank you!
This is an excellent video describing the operation and repair of this switch! I ordered a replacement switch when I started having the symptoms you described. I never knew that one set of contacts works as a braking circuit. I also like your modification for the burnt AC cord connection. Thank you.
Your video is very useful because it is hard to get parts for my recently bought Kobalt corded Lawn Mower model KM211, and repairing will be the only option. Most of the time people replace the component instead of repairing it. I like repairing and reusing instead of throwing it away. That is why I liked your video very much. Thanks for your time in making the video with very good close up shots and good explanation. Thanks for sharing.
My contacts were more or less in the same state. I did a quick clean and rebuild one of the moving contact from copper tubing. Easy enough. The hardest part is to put the springs and contacts back in and close everything so it is functional again. Thanks for that great video. I could not have done the repair without it
Thank you thank you!!! I followed your instructions and my mower is running again! This is after the local mower place said they don’t work on electric mowers (even though that sell them!), so it’s “probably just time to buy a new mower.” Ha!
You could use a small box cutting knife to hold the contacts in place while installing the contact board. Once the circuit board is almost in place you pull the thin blade out. Careful with the super sharp blade!
Steve Great video learned quite a few things and very good detail. I received a free mower exactly like yours I think. I started using it and it appeared to go intermittent. I made the mistake of taking the switch apart and discovered you needed 3 men or 6 hands to get it back together . Finally all the springs fell out not to be found again. I thought I could make the motor vary in speed just by hooking it up to a rotary dimmer switch wrong again. I started playing with the switch and thought it was intermittent but it also could be that I was not applying enough pressure to the knob. I cleaned the switch by placing it in a container of contact cleaner without taking it apart. It turned the liquid black. Now I want to try assembling the parts and see if it works. You really need the original handle setup to get the pressure on the switch knob. I may spend some time trying to reassemble the original switch but I have my doubts about finding the exact replacements for the springs etc. I had to take a required course about 50 yrs. ago on generators and motors . I still don't know the reason for rectifying the 110 volt ac. I thought there were DC motors and AC motors. Sorry to get too wordy but there is some joy in trying to fix things. Know anything about 12 volt fan called "The Fantastic Fan" ? I tried to make some adjustments using an Amazon smart plug to get it to work remotely, now it is in pieces. It will be my next project. Thanks again for the great video. Bob
Thank you for your comments and feedback, Bob. I appreciate it! It sounds like you've been down a similar path as I have learning about how these things work! My local hardware store sells loose springs in all kinds of variety, perhaps yours does too? Your choice of spring would be one that has adequate "stiffness" to hold the sliding contact firmly against the stationary one in the switch assembly. Of course, it should fit in the hole inside the switch too so that it doesn't shoot itself loose when compressed! Regarding the use of a DC motor v.s. AC, I think when either options are viable, manufacturing cost is generally the deciding factor :) Sorry, I'm not familiar with "The Fantastic Fan" -- I hope you can successfully complete your project!
Brilliantly done video. Thank you so much for it. I'm about to attempt a similar fix as my starter is doing the same power-fluxuating-then-stopping thing. Oddly enough, the new starter I bought (and returned) made the mower run the same - so I'm also going to chase the wires for any signs of insulation damage.
Helpfu hint: To ease reassembly, super glue the springs to the contacts. Note that the proper spring location can be identified by the circular wear marks on the bottom of the contacts, and that the contacts should be sanded before installation to ensure that there is no glue on their surface.
I try to avoid super glue since I've had too many "accidents" and minor splattering of the glue upon simply piercing the nozzle. I use "Bondex" instead. It's a sticky clear resin, rather viscous, that needs ultraviolet light to set hard. Apply a tiny amount of liquid Bondex at the bottom of the recesses for each spring. Put a spring into the puddle of Bondex, and zap it per instructions with the UV LED that comes with a Bondex kit. The LED with my kit is a little smaller than the inside diameter of the spring, so the top end of the spring can be used to aim the LED properly at the bottom of the spring recess. Resin hardening is very fast and totally under your control.
Thank you for the excellent very detailed and informative explanation. What could be wrong if the mower does not immediately stop when the orange lever is released? Instead, the motor does immediately start slowing down and completely stops within 10 seconds but it does not immediately cut off the way yours does in the video. A continuity test of the switch gives the same result as you show and I have tried replacing the switch with a switch from another B&D mower but it still just slows down when the lever is released and that seems like it might be dangerous.
It's hard to give a definitive answer without performing more tests, but it sounds like the mower has the same electric braking mechanism. If it isn't stopping right away and the switch is hooked up properly, then perhaps the wires that connect to the bridge rectifier are not connected or damaged. These would be the wires that connect to the two breaking leads on the switch.
@@SteveGuidi I discovered last night that it was the switch after all, so thanks to you, the Southeast Seattle Tool Library has another working mower to lend out to members this week! Your video and links to Nick's circuit diagram inspired me to test the continuity on both mowers and gave me the confidence to keep trying to solve the problem. Since the continuity checked out fine, I figured maybe it was the switch after all. Turns out I had replaced the original bad switch with another faulty one - a danger of using scavenged parts! After swapping the switch with one from a working mower, the problem was solved, and luckily I had another working (scavenged) switch on hand. I plan on opening up the faulty switch later today and cleaning it just like you did on the video. I really appreciate the time you took to make the video and the quality of your explanations.
I haven't read all the comments, so this tip may be a repeat. This is to keep control of the springs when opening the switch case. After releasing the bendable clips, just before disassembling the cover of the switch from the case, put the entire assembly and both of your hands INSIDE a good size Ziploc bag. You can't see the springs as you release the lid, and they will go flying in random directions out from under the lid. If the switch and your hands are well inside the plastic bag, the bag will prevent the springs from flying all over the room you are working in.
Will this fix work on a cordless one? The Black and Decker model I have is CM1836. The issue it has it has intermittent power issues and there is a delay when trying to start it. Thank you in advance.
I'm not certain as I've never used a cordless mower, so I'll defer to others for comments. That said, if you're comfortable disassembling the on/off switch mechanism for the cordless mower, you can check the contacts for the same symptoms. If they are blackened like in my switch, then it is likely the cause of the problem you're experiencing.
I have a 36 volt B&D mower. When self propelled the wheels make a grinding sound as the gears obviously don't mesh properly and must be worn. Any advice on how to fix/replace them??
Thanks for the video. I'm considering the B&D MM2000 mower, but I keep reading about how the motors (on all electric mowers) conk out. So I've been looking at repair videos to see what I'd be up against. I'm not sure -- a gas mower is easier for me to understand and repair (mine is ~20 yrs old, and I do the usual maintenance). Electric mowers seem a little more daunting to me, in terms of repairs or maintenance. Another issue-- I need a 100' cord, but the B&D manual doesn't recommend it. I've read folks using 12/3 or 14/2 extension cords. I'd probably opt for the 12/3 to be sure. What do you think? Thanks for an informative video!
My cable is 14/3 and I believe it is at least 75' long. In general, the longer the cable, the larger the voltage and power loss -- but you can compensate with a lower AWG cable. 12 AWG should be suitable, but I think it will be very difficult to coil and store due to its thickness.
Steve, Thank you, I am 50% fixed. I had the same issue with the melt, and our colors are the same. The box switch is fine and I need to Know what to do with the red wire. Should I connect it with the wire nut into the blacks? You gave a lot of info. but I needed ro see the wire nut connection. I even have difficulty spotting a checkmate with all my prime pieces in a game of chess. An answer from you on this would give me a checkmate! Then I could mow my lawn.
I'm looking at the photo at 19:16 and my connections from the AC power cable are as follows: Black (AC) -> Black (Switch), White (AC) -> Orange (Motor). From the motor the black, white, and red wires all go to the switch; they should be terminated with a spade connector to attach to the switch. Basically one wire from the AC power cable goes to the switch, and the other to the motor. Let me know if this helps!
@@SteveGuidi OMGURU! You are awesome! I put it all together, thanks to you and your video. I couldn't resist mowing beyond dusk and into the twilight zone. I ran over my new green cord, and that's not the first time. so no problem to fix. Yay! Thank you.
Hello. I have the same issue with the AC plug part. I would like to replace it as you showed. You mention that the gauge of the AC power wire should be the same as the existing wire connecting to power in the mower. What gauge wire do you suggest?
I used 16 AWG stranded wire, though 14 AWG should work too. Anything smaller might be too rigid to work with. The wire I used was an electric cable sold by Home Depot (in the USA) as a replacement for power tool cables. The gauge matched the existing internal wire in my mower, so I purchased it and cut it to a desired length. Best of luck with your repair!
I've never used a self-propelled lawn mower, but please feel free to ask your question. While I may not be able to answer it, hopefully another reader can.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
If you tie the contacts down with fine fishing line, you can slip the line out when the switch is back together. Also good for holding magnets in place when rebuilding other components. Great video, mate. Excellent how-to and delivery.
Follow your video I dissembled my mower with confidence and found it has almost same root cause, so I was able to fix the switch which may cost $50 or more. One more trick to add is to use a metal wire bolt down the two sliding pieces first, then put the cover/board on so nothing can pop. After that, use a rubber band to fix the cover/board on, loose then pull out the metal wire, close the 5 metal tabs. All good as new. Also, I filed the copper contacts especially the ones on power side - one of the two burnt badly so make it shining and sooth helps the slide to move, now my latch will trig the mower on even if I do not hold tight the orange latch @ handle. Thank you!
This is an excellent video describing the operation and repair of this switch! I ordered a replacement switch when I started having the symptoms you described. I never knew that one set of contacts works as a braking circuit. I also like your modification for the burnt AC cord connection. Thank you.
Your video is very useful because it is hard to get parts for my recently bought Kobalt corded Lawn Mower model KM211, and repairing will be the only option. Most of the time people replace the component instead of repairing it. I like repairing and reusing instead of throwing it away. That is why I liked your video very much. Thanks for your time in making the video with very good close up shots and good explanation. Thanks for sharing.
My contacts were more or less in the same state. I did a quick clean and rebuild one of the moving contact from copper tubing. Easy enough. The hardest part is to put the springs and contacts back in and close everything so it is functional again. Thanks for that great video. I could not have done the repair without it
It appears a flyback diode may eliminate the arc. Food for thought....nice video
Excellent. This video slolved my B&D M200 "low power" or "no start" problem without parts or cost. Kudos.
Thank you thank you!!! I followed your instructions and my mower is running again! This is after the local mower place said they don’t work on electric mowers (even though that sell them!), so it’s “probably just time to buy a new mower.”
Ha!
Followed you video to repair switch. Worked perfectly!!! In the future I will be do less turning off and on the mower!!!
Great video. Good detail and filming. I was able to fix the switch on my lawnmower exactly as shown and runs like a charm. Thank you!
Excellent video - exactly what I needed for my lawn mower repair!
Glad it helped!
You could use a small box cutting knife to hold the contacts in place while installing the contact board. Once the circuit board is almost in place you pull the thin blade out. Careful with the super sharp blade!
Steve
Great video learned quite a few things and very good detail.
I received a free mower exactly like yours I think.
I started using it and it appeared to go intermittent.
I made the mistake of taking the switch apart and discovered you needed 3 men or 6 hands to get it back together .
Finally all the springs fell out not to be found again.
I thought I could make the motor vary in speed just by hooking it up to a rotary dimmer switch
wrong again.
I started playing with the switch and thought it was intermittent but it also could be that I was not applying enough pressure to the knob. I cleaned the switch by placing it in a container of contact cleaner without taking it apart. It turned the liquid black.
Now I want to try assembling the parts and see if it works. You really need the original handle setup to get the pressure on the switch knob.
I may spend some time trying to reassemble the original switch but I have my doubts about finding the exact replacements for the springs etc.
I had to take a required course about 50 yrs. ago on generators and motors . I still don't know the reason for rectifying the 110 volt ac. I thought there were DC motors and AC motors.
Sorry to get too wordy but there is some joy in trying to fix things.
Know anything about 12 volt fan called "The Fantastic Fan" ? I tried to make some adjustments using an Amazon smart plug to get it to work remotely, now it is in pieces. It will be my next project.
Thanks again for the great video.
Bob
Thank you for your comments and feedback, Bob. I appreciate it!
It sounds like you've been down a similar path as I have learning about how these things work! My local hardware store sells loose springs in all kinds of variety, perhaps yours does too? Your choice of spring would be one that has adequate "stiffness" to hold the sliding contact firmly against the stationary one in the switch assembly. Of course, it should fit in the hole inside the switch too so that it doesn't shoot itself loose when compressed!
Regarding the use of a DC motor v.s. AC, I think when either options are viable, manufacturing cost is generally the deciding factor :) Sorry, I'm not familiar with "The Fantastic Fan" -- I hope you can successfully complete your project!
I have just gotten one step closer to being the smartest man on Earth
Brilliantly done video. Thank you so much for it. I'm about to attempt a similar fix as my starter is doing the same power-fluxuating-then-stopping thing. Oddly enough, the new starter I bought (and returned) made the mower run the same - so I'm also going to chase the wires for any signs of insulation damage.
This has the feel of a lockpicking lawyer video.
Helpfu hint: To ease reassembly, super glue the springs to the contacts. Note that the proper spring location can be identified by the circular wear marks on the bottom of the contacts, and that the contacts should be sanded before installation to ensure that there is no glue on their surface.
I try to avoid super glue since I've had too many "accidents" and minor splattering of the glue upon simply piercing the nozzle. I use "Bondex" instead. It's a sticky clear resin, rather viscous, that needs ultraviolet light to set hard. Apply a tiny amount of liquid Bondex at the bottom of the recesses for each spring. Put a spring into the puddle of Bondex, and zap it per instructions with the UV LED that comes with a Bondex kit. The LED with my kit is a little smaller than the inside diameter of the spring, so the top end of the spring can be used to aim the LED properly at the bottom of the spring recess. Resin hardening is very fast and totally under your control.
Thanks for sharing. I'm working on one now that seems to have a similar issue. You have a new Sub!
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you for the excellent very detailed and informative explanation. What could be wrong if the mower does not immediately stop when the orange lever is released? Instead, the motor does immediately start slowing down and completely stops within 10 seconds but it does not immediately cut off the way yours does in the video. A continuity test of the switch gives the same result as you show and I have tried replacing the switch with a switch from another B&D mower but it still just slows down when the lever is released and that seems like it might be dangerous.
It's hard to give a definitive answer without performing more tests, but it sounds like the mower has the same electric braking mechanism. If it isn't stopping right away and the switch is hooked up properly, then perhaps the wires that connect to the bridge rectifier are not connected or damaged. These would be the wires that connect to the two breaking leads on the switch.
@@SteveGuidi I discovered last night that it was the switch after all, so thanks to you, the Southeast Seattle Tool Library has another working mower to lend out to members this week! Your video and links to Nick's circuit diagram inspired me to test the continuity on both mowers and gave me the confidence to keep trying to solve the problem. Since the continuity checked out fine, I figured maybe it was the switch after all. Turns out I had replaced the original bad switch with another faulty one - a danger of using scavenged parts! After swapping the switch with one from a working mower, the problem was solved, and luckily I had another working (scavenged) switch on hand. I plan on opening up the faulty switch later today and cleaning it just like you did on the video. I really appreciate the time you took to make the video and the quality of your explanations.
I haven't read all the comments, so this tip may be a repeat. This is to keep control of the springs when opening the switch case. After releasing the bendable clips, just before disassembling the cover of the switch from the case, put the entire assembly and both of your hands INSIDE a good size Ziploc bag. You can't see the springs as you release the lid, and they will go flying in random directions out from under the lid. If the switch and your hands are well inside the plastic bag, the bag will prevent the springs from flying all over the room you are working in.
Can I just bypass the switch and connect the 2 black wires and keep the other 2 disconnected?
Will this fix work on a cordless one? The Black and Decker model I have is CM1836. The issue it has it has intermittent power issues and there is a delay when trying to start it.
Thank you in advance.
I'm not certain as I've never used a cordless mower, so I'll defer to others for comments. That said, if you're comfortable disassembling the on/off switch mechanism for the cordless mower, you can check the contacts for the same symptoms. If they are blackened like in my switch, then it is likely the cause of the problem you're experiencing.
I have a 36 volt B&D mower. When self propelled the wheels make a grinding sound as the gears obviously don't mesh properly and must be worn. Any advice on how to fix/replace them??
Great DIY, thanks
Thanks for the video. I'm considering the B&D MM2000 mower, but I keep reading about how the motors (on all electric mowers) conk out. So I've been looking at repair videos to see what I'd be up against.
I'm not sure -- a gas mower is easier for me to understand and repair (mine is ~20 yrs old, and I do the usual maintenance). Electric mowers seem a little more daunting to me, in terms of repairs or maintenance.
Another issue-- I need a 100' cord, but the B&D manual doesn't recommend it. I've read folks using 12/3 or 14/2 extension cords. I'd probably opt for the 12/3 to be sure. What do you think?
Thanks for an informative video!
My cable is 14/3 and I believe it is at least 75' long. In general, the longer the cable, the larger the voltage and power loss -- but you can compensate with a lower AWG cable. 12 AWG should be suitable, but I think it will be very difficult to coil and store due to its thickness.
Steve, Thank you, I am 50% fixed. I had the same issue with the melt, and our colors are the same. The box switch is fine and I need to Know what to do with the red wire. Should I connect it with the wire nut into the blacks? You gave a lot of info. but I needed ro see the wire nut connection. I even have difficulty spotting a checkmate with all my prime pieces in a game of chess. An answer from you on this would give me a checkmate! Then I could mow my lawn.
I'm looking at the photo at 19:16 and my connections from the AC power cable are as follows: Black (AC) -> Black (Switch), White (AC) -> Orange (Motor). From the motor the black, white, and red wires all go to the switch; they should be terminated with a spade connector to attach to the switch. Basically one wire from the AC power cable goes to the switch, and the other to the motor. Let me know if this helps!
@@SteveGuidi OMGURU! You are awesome! I put it all together, thanks to you and your video. I couldn't resist mowing beyond dusk and into the twilight zone. I ran over my new green cord, and that's not the first time. so no problem to fix. Yay! Thank you.
Please do you know if KBPC2504 will work in place of GBPC2504
I'm sorry, I don't know for certain. They are both bridge rectifiers, but you should check the datasheet for each component to be certain.
I just bought this switch I dd not I know I could fix it.
Hello. I have the same issue with the AC plug part. I would like to replace it as you showed. You mention that the gauge of the AC power wire should be the same as the existing wire connecting to power in the mower. What gauge wire do you suggest?
And thanks so much for the video. If I can't fix then I have to buy a new mower.. :-(
I used 16 AWG stranded wire, though 14 AWG should work too. Anything smaller might be too rigid to work with.
The wire I used was an electric cable sold by Home Depot (in the USA) as a replacement for power tool cables. The gauge matched the existing internal wire in my mower, so I purchased it and cut it to a desired length.
Best of luck with your repair!
can I ask a question about the self propulsion on a B & D ?
I've never used a self-propelled lawn mower, but please feel free to ask your question. While I may not be able to answer it, hopefully another reader can.