I'm not a machinist but I really admire your work. It's impressive all the things to create something new with the precision that is need in a machine to get something to work. I like your explanations and admire you experience. Congrats from Mexico 😁.
Where I retired, we made a lifting rig out of 2in. pipe in a squre U shape with a lifting eye on top. Chuck on the bottom with the eye directly over the chuck and pick up with the crane.
I made the same but took it one step further and made a bushing for the piece the chuck jaws tighten against so the chuck can be rotated while hanging for easier alignment.
Before I retired a few years back we had acquired an old lathe that was headed to the scrap yard and I felt sorry for it, it had a 36 in swing and a 17-foot-long bed line shaft style lathe. It had a 6 /3 thread on style chuck. Talk about a pain in the ass to swap chucks
I acquired a 1918 18" LeBlond a couple years ago that has a 2-1/2" x 5tpi spindle nose. Built a jib crane over it and use a "bracket" with sealed roller bearings that I clamp in the chuck to remove/install. Works great. 🙂
Years ago, I bought a very nice Lodge and Shipley Model X with an L1 American Long Taper spindle. The lathe was a super bargain, but came with only a three jaw chuck. Finding an L style chucks is a real treasure hunt now. If you buy one of these old L style lathes and it comes well equipped, that's great. Otherwise, don't expect you can just scrounge around a little and find a nice used chuck for it. The D1 style chucks are way, way more common at auctions, etc. than any other styles, at least in my area in Western Canada.
to quote sir Mix-a-lot: I like big chucks and I cannot lie You other machinist can't deny That when a lathe walks in with an itty bitty footprint And a big round chuck, you get sprung
Back in the fifty's,my dad took my brother - who was about 7 years old,to a shop tour. (family day) They were looking at a lathe with a 4 foot diameter chuck on it . Naturally my brother grabbed the big START handle. It started up (in reverse) -- Started slowly unscrewing the chuck ! ! ! Dad said "i just threw it the other way -- that'll teach um to leave the power on"😅😊😂
I have used chucks that had a 5/8 tapped hole in the center of the chuck on top and used an eye bolt to lift it with a chain fall. Also used some that had a jig made up that you clamped in the chuck and it was shaped so you could lift it with a hoist above.
My 50's vintage Regal has an L00 mount. Never had any sticking problems with the nut, however it had a tendency to loosen up while running certain time consuming taper jobs. My 70's 15x54 Clausing Colchester has D-6 and sometimes, especially on the 6-jaw chucks I have concentricity issues. It came from a school so who knows. I've had it 10 yrs.
I have a Nardini. It’s an amazing lathe, and it’s extremely accurate and I never leveled it. It sits on a cobbled up dolly that doesn’t lock so wheel it around easy, and I tested to see if I can get it to cut a taper between centers… it was always dead on within .0005 regardless of where it was in the shop. It recently got burned up in a shop fire by arson, took it home and went through some of it, cleaned up some of the wiring and got it to run. It’s really unfortunate I knew the original owner who bought it new, I had all the original paperwork and Polaroids of the lathe sitting at the factory. Original manuals.. They are all burnt up. Unfortunately it’s a model that doesn’t seem that common and doesn’t have a manual online for it. It’s a 12x30 tt.
my Dsg chuck has a tapped hole that you screw a lifting eye into and it lifts pretty level its a ropey lift with a sling the chuck could tilt and fall out
if you have a lathe from europe it may have a DIN style . i have one with a 16 inch chuck. it's kind of like a cross between camlock and A style. there are studs that stick out of the chuck but they have nuts on them. they fit through spindle holes and then you turn a ring and tighten the nuts against the ring
I just got my new 3 jaw center chuck and very familiar with the cam style but learnt little more today about them, thank you. What is your preference in lubrication when doing a tear down and rebuild on your chucks.
I put some heavy grease on the gears, but only way oil on the scroll, and guide ways. I find the grease hold dirt & is a extra mess after a fresh lubing, that's why I use mostly oil.
A shop vac will get most, but will not get it fully clean, it may require scrubing, and solvents or light oil. Important thing is to feel with your hand for any particles or debris.
I'm not a machinist but I really admire your work. It's impressive all the things to create something new with the precision that is need in a machine to get something to work. I like your explanations and admire you experience. Congrats from Mexico 😁.
Where I retired, we made a lifting rig out of 2in. pipe in a squre U shape with a lifting eye on top. Chuck on the bottom with the eye directly over the chuck and pick up with the crane.
I made the same but took it one step further and made a bushing for the piece the chuck jaws tighten against so the chuck can be rotated while hanging for easier alignment.
Before I retired a few years back we had acquired an old lathe that was headed to the scrap yard and I felt sorry for it, it had a 36 in swing and a 17-foot-long bed line shaft style lathe. It had a 6 /3 thread on style chuck. Talk about a pain in the ass to swap chucks
I acquired a 1918 18" LeBlond a couple years ago that has a 2-1/2" x 5tpi spindle nose. Built a jib crane over it and use a "bracket" with sealed roller bearings that I clamp in the chuck to remove/install. Works great. 🙂
I learned on a 4 jaw Chuck leblond lathe
@@hazendismukesjr.8319well, I learned on a four jaw chuck on an Enco, so take that, lol!
I like big chucks ana cannot lie
That's a big chuck for sure.
I like my D14 chuck on my small lathe.
Happy Independence day. 🇺🇸
Years ago, I bought a very nice Lodge and Shipley Model X with an L1 American Long Taper spindle. The lathe was a super bargain, but came with only a three jaw chuck. Finding an L style chucks is a real treasure hunt now. If you buy one of these old L style lathes and it comes well equipped, that's great. Otherwise, don't expect you can just scrounge around a little and find a nice used chuck for it. The D1 style chucks are way, way more common at auctions, etc. than any other styles, at least in my area in Western Canada.
to quote sir Mix-a-lot: I like big chucks and I cannot lie
You other machinist can't deny
That when a lathe walks in with an itty bitty footprint
And a big round chuck, you get sprung
Back in the fifty's,my dad took my brother - who was about 7 years old,to a shop tour. (family day) They were looking at a lathe with a 4 foot diameter chuck on it . Naturally my brother grabbed the big START handle.
It started up (in reverse) -- Started slowly unscrewing the chuck ! ! ! Dad said "i just threw it the other way -- that'll teach um to leave the power on"😅😊😂
I have used chucks that had a 5/8 tapped hole in the center of the chuck on top and used an eye bolt to lift it with a chain fall. Also used some that had a jig made up that you clamped in the chuck and it was shaped so you could lift it with a hoist above.
My 50's vintage Regal has an L00 mount. Never had any sticking problems with the nut, however it had a tendency to loosen up while running certain time consuming taper jobs. My 70's 15x54 Clausing Colchester has D-6 and sometimes, especially on the 6-jaw chucks I have concentricity issues. It came from a school so who knows. I've had it 10 yrs.
I have a Nardini. It’s an amazing lathe, and it’s extremely accurate and I never leveled it. It sits on a cobbled up dolly that doesn’t lock so wheel it around easy, and I tested to see if I can get it to cut a taper between centers… it was always dead on within .0005 regardless of where it was in the shop.
It recently got burned up in a shop fire by arson, took it home and went through some of it, cleaned up some of the wiring and got it to run.
It’s really unfortunate I knew the original owner who bought it new, I had all the original paperwork and Polaroids of the lathe sitting at the factory. Original manuals..
They are all burnt up.
Unfortunately it’s a model that doesn’t seem that common and doesn’t have a manual online for it. It’s a 12x30 tt.
my Dsg chuck has a tapped hole that you screw a lifting eye into and it lifts pretty level its a ropey lift with a sling the chuck could tilt and fall out
You should use a shackle on your flat strap choker. Picks better
if you have a lathe from europe it may have a DIN style . i have one with a 16 inch chuck. it's kind of like a cross between camlock and A style. there are studs that stick out of the chuck but they have nuts on them. they fit through spindle holes and then you turn a ring and tighten the nuts against the ring
I think all 3 types use the same tapers, just different fixing methods.
One of my not being used CNC lathes has that style, I had forget about them when I did the video.
Tapers are same. I prefare bayonet over camlock.
"Apprentice marks" or, "that looks like ya went at it with a dull beaver."
I just got my new 3 jaw center chuck and very familiar with the cam style but learnt little more today about them, thank you. What is your preference in lubrication when doing a tear down and rebuild on your chucks.
I put some heavy grease on the gears, but only way oil on the scroll, and guide ways. I find the grease hold dirt & is a extra mess after a fresh lubing, that's why I use mostly oil.
@@HOWEES thank you for the help
Can you use a shop vacuum to clean that out or not?
A shop vac will get most, but will not get it fully clean, it may require scrubing, and solvents or light oil. Important thing is to feel with your hand for any particles or debris.
I just make the apprentice muscle it out. No time for the lift. He's cheaper, too.
It will come back u one day
@@noah8877 no, I don't think it will, I'm not the one doing the heavy lifting!
I ment brrin a jack arse wen u really need him he wont be there cuase u treated him like shit