Mostly do work on my own due to money. I have taken my bike cause I didn't have the tool to complete. Cost less to have shop do it than to buy the tool(s). Probably never use the tool again or maybe once.
I do try to work on my bike as much as I can. Not items such as a brake bleed, which I had my LBS do it for me just today. This after I replaced my rear caliper myself.
I much prefer working on my bike as opposed to someone else fiddling with it. First thing is you learn a lot through failure and every time you do it you become quicker adn better at it. Secondly, at the bike shop sometimes they don't exactly do what I would like and the only way to get over it is to tweak it myself. There is however a few exceptions for jobs that I do not own the tools for or I won't bother doing myself. (for example truing a wheel) Love your videos they do help a lot!!!
Investing in good tools and learning how to work on your bike is priceless. Saves time and money in the long run. The PT Derailleur Hanger tool is worth it's weight gold. Over time (without crashing) a DH and get knocked out place. Alignment is essential for perfect shifting. Even if you replace a hanger I find 50% of the time hangers NOT to be straight, the Park Tool is very valuable.
Nice. I’m a wrench. See all those things everyday. I think it’s good practice to even check a brand new hanger for alignment. They are often just a little bit out of alignment.
I once got a hanger that was slightly bent from the factory. The first 11-8 gears shifted correctly, then as you got into the lower gears (bigger tooth gears) on the cassette it would rub against the next one and sometimes shift when it shouldn't have. I spent like 3 days trying to index it correctly between the barrel adjusters and the limit screws. I then found out you could have a bent derailleur hanger from a park tool video, I didn't want to go to a bike shop or buy the tool. my solution was to take the derailleur off and eyeball it with an adjustable wrench, good as new again.
Make sure the derailleur and the hanger are tight... so many times I've gotten it adjusted just so only to find the whole thing isn't tight and then have to do it all again...
Thanks for the video, it helped me diagnose that my chain was too long and was indeed rubbing on itself on the small small cogs. Also massive help in adjusting the derailleur correctly. My gears have never worked so well. Thanks for the great overview.
This was an excellent video. It made me feel better that I was not the only idiot to run the chain on the front tab of the derailleur. It shifted properly but made a ticking sound. I didn't discover the error until the chain had rubbed a deep groove in the tab. Now when I do go to a bike shop the mechanic sees the tab damage and knows an idiot replaced the chain.
If you ever change your derailleur hanger ALWAYS check you limit screws, often replacement hangers are thicker or thinner than the original and failing to check the limit screws could result in the derailleur going straight into the spokes
Jeff, I really have to tell you how great and informative your videos are. I also have to say that by far you guys are the best place to buy all my MTB parts! Questions are always answered, very professionally and all aspects of project are included as far as tools and what else is needed. A big thank you for doing what you do, keep up the good work! Oh yeah, I do all the work on my bikes.
My LBS refuses to return my calls so I work on my bike myself and Im pretty terrible at adjusting my derailleur so its always multiple watches on Park tools channel.
the "b" in b tension stand for "back" tension. Because when you shift up the cable pulls the derailleur back as well as to the side. The more you know ;)
Hahaha love all the subtle "if you did it like this.. then it’s probably not working right” lmao.. me a few times over! Hah, you guy’s are going to make everyone pros and do it themself’ers if you keep putting up good quality & detailed vids like this! Sweeet! I’m not mad at all!
Thanks. I routed my chain wrong. I only noticed after I changed my brakes. Probably had it wrong for over a year. My chain almost ate through the tab. Bike is way quieter now. 🤦♂️
One thing I'd like to know more about is the length of the mech at the point of attachment. I removed that extra bit you can see on the Alivio at 06:06 ( on mt XT M8000 ) as i have the specific Derailleur Hanger 2091 AXH (Shimano) for the X12 axle. The SRAM one is shorter ! I used to think the SRAM and Shimano mechs were interchangeable on the same hanger ? Not even sure how to word a Google search for this.
Maybe how to adjust a rear derailleur that is waaaaay out of adjustment. What steps to do to know what to adjust and then how to then get it all working properly.
Fun fact, new derailleur hangers are often not perfectly straight. Also, aluminum usually only snaps if overly-bent, which you can solve by heating up the hanger, first.
Thanks for content . I can work on a lot of things on my bikes but this is my weakness. I suck at adjusting the gears and end up taking it to a shop always .
I tend to work on my own bike I like to refine my own skills Speaking of which thank you for the name of the barrel adjuster forever forgetting what that feature is called I think I finally have it applied to memory a BARREL ADJUSTER a barrel adjuster Thanks guys got it God bless you and again thank you God bless have a good one and remember keep shredding Forever grateful your friend and fan Wm.Take care Bless ya Ciao 😆😎😇🎶
Every notice how a brand new bike works just fine for years and years. The moment you take it to a shop to do an upgrade or get a component swapped out is when lots of mysterious problems start happening.... 😕
I watched this vid for info on how to properly adjust my b tension screw but OMG when I got to 8:40 I realized that’s why my derailleur was sounding rough 😭 Edit: it was a Shimano SLX rear derailleur. Glad I messed with this s one before I messed with my GRX derailleur lol
Mine won’t shift to the largest cog everything is in alignment but the gear indicator says 1 but the chain is on the first largest cog (gear 2 ) I’ve been playing with the L screw and cable tension the derailleur just refuses to move inward any further to largest cog I sprayed every joint with WD-40 to clean and flush out any gunk and left it alone to work itself through next plan is to wipe any residue off then hit it with lubricant and 3 in 1 oil inside cable sheath so anyway with all that said if it’s still not shifting to larger cog what could be problem any thoughts bike is only 3 years old
My derailleur is terrible in some of the middle gears. It is trying to shift up and down even without shifting, I’m assuming this is a hanger problem as there is no adjustment to fix this?
any idea how to resolve my rear issues? i have change my cogs to a bigger one then a part of my rear derailleur touches the cogs i can send you a picture on how it touches but dont know where i can send it to you
What if the chain jumps from the biggest cog downwards when pushing the bike backwards? 🤷♂️ Sram XO1 Chain gap is spot on with the chain gap tool. Also, when I shift von from second to first gear the chain only runs on top of the teeth and not in between?
Worldwide Cyclery Forgot to mention it’s a new ebike 🤫😅 (propain Ekano) with a Shimano steps e8000 (chain doesn’t spin when rotating the cranks backwards while riding or in the bike stand). It’s happening when I am pushing the bike a little backwards when on ground. The chain jumps at least to 2nd or 3rd or even 4th gear. Its a complete mess, chain gets completely messed up in the cassette.
Glad the video could help! And yes that is a prs-25 stand. I absolutely love them and we have them in all three of our shops. It is definitely the best stand out there however for normal home mechanic use I think the 10.2 is plenty depending on your budget. But anyway, here are our most popular selling bike stands - www.worldwidecyclery.com/collections/repair-stand The main difference between the 25 and the 10.2 is the material and therefore the weight. If you are going to travel with it often the 25 is way lighter.
@@WorldwideCyclery Yep. I do have the 25. It can be a little tipsy as I have an XL 29r but I just point the front tire in line with the front leg and have noticed more stability. Love it. Thanks again for the tips and good deals on parts!
Im watching this in my garage at 1 in the morning trying to figure out why my bike is shifting like shit, and honestly I’m at 1 Wix ad from burning my bike
Can this be done with the bike upside down, or will the adjustment in the exact opposite angle to the one it is used to work affect the shifting result? I'm asking mainly in case of a crash on a natural trail when you're few or several kilometers away from the main road, which may happen! Not like it happened to me yesterday or something, I'm just asking for a friend
Sorry bro but I feel like this video is way too complicated. I wish the video would have stuck with Goal, reason for the goal, and bigger WHAT to do, and exact steps on WHAT to do.
Do you guys work on your own bike or take it to a mechanic? Let us know if you want more tech tips!
Never have taken it to a mechanic, I do everything myself. The closest "LBS" is 160km away...
I work my self an do freind bikes
Was a mechanic in the 90's (stuff's changed since then) but when I'm stumped I take to a shop!
Mostly do work on my own due to money. I have taken my bike cause I didn't have the tool to complete. Cost less to have shop do it than to buy the tool(s). Probably never use the tool again or maybe once.
I do try to work on my bike as much as I can. Not items such as a brake bleed, which I had my LBS do it for me just today. This after I replaced my rear caliper myself.
The "B" in B Tension stands for "Body" meaning the body position of the derailleur.
Your videos, and the contribution they make to the MTB community, is the reason why I buy from you guys whenever I can.
Thank you for the kind words! Let us know if there are any specific topics you want to see us cover in the future :)
I much prefer working on my bike as opposed to someone else fiddling with it. First thing is you learn a lot through failure and every time you do it you become quicker adn better at it. Secondly, at the bike shop sometimes they don't exactly do what I would like and the only way to get over it is to tweak it myself. There is however a few exceptions for jobs that I do not own the tools for or I won't bother doing myself. (for example truing a wheel)
Love your videos they do help a lot!!!
Investing in good tools and learning how to work on your bike is priceless. Saves time and money in the long run. The PT Derailleur Hanger tool is worth it's weight gold. Over time (without crashing) a DH and get knocked out place. Alignment is essential for perfect shifting. Even if you replace a hanger I find 50% of the time hangers NOT to be straight, the Park Tool is very valuable.
Nice.
I’m a wrench. See all those things everyday.
I think it’s good practice to even check a brand new hanger for alignment. They are often just a little bit out of alignment.
I once got a hanger that was slightly bent from the factory. The first 11-8 gears shifted correctly, then as you got into the lower gears (bigger tooth gears) on the cassette it would rub against the next one and sometimes shift when it shouldn't have. I spent like 3 days trying to index it correctly between the barrel adjusters and the limit screws. I then found out you could have a bent derailleur hanger from a park tool video, I didn't want to go to a bike shop or buy the tool. my solution was to take the derailleur off and eyeball it with an adjustable wrench, good as new again.
Make sure the derailleur and the hanger are tight... so many times I've gotten it adjusted just so only to find the whole thing isn't tight and then have to do it all again...
Thanks for the video, it helped me diagnose that my chain was too long and was indeed rubbing on itself on the small small cogs. Also massive help in adjusting the derailleur correctly. My gears have never worked so well. Thanks for the great overview.
This was an excellent video. It made me feel better that I was not the only idiot to run the chain on the front tab of the derailleur. It shifted properly but made a ticking sound. I didn't discover the error until the chain had rubbed a deep groove in the tab. Now when I do go to a bike shop the mechanic sees the tab damage and knows an idiot replaced the chain.
If you ever change your derailleur hanger ALWAYS check you limit screws, often replacement hangers are thicker or thinner than the original and failing to check the limit screws could result in the derailleur going straight into the spokes
Jeff, I really have to tell you how great and informative your videos are. I also have to say that by far you guys are the best place to buy all my MTB parts! Questions are always answered, very professionally and all aspects of project are included as far as tools and what else is needed. A big thank you for doing what you do, keep up the good work! Oh yeah, I do all the work on my bikes.
Thanks, Josef. That is our goal and I'm happy we have been able to help you out when you need it! :)
My LBS refuses to return my calls so I work on my bike myself and Im pretty terrible at adjusting my derailleur so its always multiple watches on Park tools channel.
One of you must be doing things wrong at some point to end that way, from your statement
TH-cam is a hell of a place to learn yourself some good 'ol bike mechanics. I believe in you Fat Guy.
The b - tension screw stands for body angle screw
A great refresher on the basics, installing a rear derailleur tomorrow morning
the "b" in b tension stand for "back" tension. Because when you shift up the cable pulls the derailleur back as well as to the side. The more you know ;)
Well, that makes sense. Thanks!
@@WorldwideCyclery your welcome! Great video btw!
Actually a lot of people say and think that. However that is incorrect. It stands for body and is referring to deraillur body angle.
Hahaha love all the subtle "if you did it like this.. then it’s probably not working right” lmao.. me a few times over! Hah, you guy’s are going to make everyone pros and do it themself’ers if you keep putting up good quality & detailed vids like this! Sweeet! I’m not mad at all!
Thanks. I routed my chain wrong. I only noticed after I changed my brakes. Probably had it wrong for over a year. My chain almost ate through the tab. Bike is way quieter now. 🤦♂️
One thing I'd like to know more about is the length of the mech at the point of attachment. I removed that extra bit you can see on the Alivio at 06:06 ( on mt XT M8000 ) as i have the specific Derailleur Hanger 2091 AXH (Shimano)
for the X12 axle. The SRAM one is shorter ! I used to think the SRAM and Shimano mechs were interchangeable on the same hanger ? Not even sure how to word a Google search for this.
FYI, the reason the industry moved to replaceable hangers wasn't actually to protect the derailleur - it's to protect the frame...
Maybe how to adjust a rear derailleur that is waaaaay out of adjustment. What steps to do to know what to adjust and then how to then get it all working properly.
I'd like to add that a dirty drivetrain can also cause shifting issues.
This is really nice! Thank you! This helped me adjust my weed wacker perfectly.
Adjusting your Hitachi CG23ECPSL?
Hi. B FOR BODY ANGLE SCREW.
grettings David Gothemburg Sweden.
Another amazing learning video!
My mech went into the spokes when I didn't tighten the jockey wheels properly. I was in the forth smallest cog. Wasn't a pretty sight
Another good one, guys. Thanks.
Great video 👍🏼
Fun fact, new derailleur hangers are often not perfectly straight. Also, aluminum usually only snaps if overly-bent, which you can solve by heating up the hanger, first.
Thanks for content .
I can work on a lot of things on my bikes but this is my weakness.
I suck at adjusting the gears and end up taking it to a shop always .
I tend to work on my own bike I like to refine my own skills Speaking of which thank you for the name of the barrel adjuster forever forgetting what that feature is called I think I finally have it applied to memory a BARREL ADJUSTER a barrel adjuster Thanks guys got it God bless you and again thank you God bless have a good one and remember keep shredding Forever grateful your friend and fan Wm.Take care Bless ya Ciao
😆😎😇🎶
Every notice how a brand new bike works just fine for years and years. The moment you take it to a shop to do an upgrade or get a component swapped out is when lots of mysterious problems start happening.... 😕
This is my derailleur. Had a local shop do the install and having issues. Hope this helps.
I watched this vid for info on how to properly adjust my b tension screw but OMG when I got to 8:40 I realized that’s why my derailleur was sounding rough 😭
Edit: it was a Shimano SLX rear derailleur. Glad I messed with this s one before I messed with my GRX derailleur lol
At 3.44, you saved my life!! Thank you so much!!
Mine won’t shift to the largest cog everything is in alignment but the gear indicator says 1 but the chain is on the first largest cog (gear 2 ) I’ve been playing with the L screw and cable tension the derailleur just refuses to move inward any further to largest cog I sprayed every joint with WD-40 to clean and flush out any gunk and left it alone to work itself through next plan is to wipe any residue off then hit it with lubricant and 3 in 1 oil inside cable sheath so anyway with all that said if it’s still not shifting to larger cog what could be problem any thoughts bike is only 3 years old
Word to the wise: Get a spare derailleur hanger BEFORE you need one.
If you just can’t seem to get the adjustment right, change the hanger. It might fix all your problems.
@@mattleonard5268 I was talking about snapping one off on the trail. But thanks anyway
Does the barrel adjuster need to be tightened in or out bfroe doing all the adjusting or just let it loose then do all the work?
So can someone explain to me why my mountain bike don't turn the wheel after u tried adjusting the derailleur
how do you fix if only on 2nd gear is not shifting properly and the rest are fine?
My derailleur is terrible in some of the middle gears. It is trying to shift up and down even without shifting, I’m assuming this is a hanger problem as there is no adjustment to fix this?
any idea how to resolve my rear issues?
i have change my cogs to a bigger one then a part of my rear derailleur touches the cogs
i can send you a picture on how it touches but dont know where i can send it to you
Hi. Maybe... B means between the two cogs...
What if the chain jumps from the biggest cog downwards when pushing the bike backwards? 🤷♂️ Sram XO1
Chain gap is spot on with the chain gap tool.
Also, when I shift von from second to first gear the chain only runs on top of the teeth and not in between?
Sounds like you have a bent derailleur hanger, or the low limit screws needs adjusting. Or both. Good luck 😉
Worldwide Cyclery
Forgot to mention it’s a new ebike 🤫😅 (propain Ekano) with a Shimano steps e8000 (chain doesn’t spin when rotating the cranks backwards while riding or in the bike stand). It’s happening when I am pushing the bike a little backwards when on ground. The chain jumps at least to 2nd or 3rd or even 4th gear. Its a complete mess, chain gets completely messed up in the cassette.
Awesome vid thanks Jeff! Great presentation of knowledge!
Super useful video thanks!!
Jeff very well explained I needed this thank you so much .
okay bro..we want your next vid is riding with BKXC that is most exciting video that we can watch!
Great instuctions thank you. Is that a prs-25 stand your using. If so how do you like them?
Glad the video could help! And yes that is a prs-25 stand. I absolutely love them and we have them in all three of our shops. It is definitely the best stand out there however for normal home mechanic use I think the 10.2 is plenty depending on your budget. But anyway, here are our most popular selling bike stands - www.worldwidecyclery.com/collections/repair-stand
The main difference between the 25 and the 10.2 is the material and therefore the weight. If you are going to travel with it often the 25 is way lighter.
@@WorldwideCyclery Yep. I do have the 25. It can be a little tipsy as I have an XL 29r but I just point the front tire in line with the front leg and have noticed more stability. Love it. Thanks again for the tips and good deals on parts!
This was a great video..thanks
HAHAHAHAHHA! I literally was about look for a drivetrain setup video and this had just been uploaded
Perfect timing haha!
Im watching this in my garage at 1 in the morning trying to figure out why my bike is shifting like shit, and honestly I’m at 1 Wix ad from burning my bike
Can you adjust the clutch on a sram mech to stop chain slap???
No actual demonstration of how to set the limit screws?
Can this be done with the bike upside down, or will the adjustment in the exact opposite angle to the one it is used to work affect the shifting result? I'm asking mainly in case of a crash on a natural trail when you're few or several kilometers away from the main road, which may happen! Not like it happened to me yesterday or something, I'm just asking for a friend
Tell your friend they can do upside down. I suggest carrying a spare hanger as they are specific to the manu and frame so cant just use a friends.
Nice bike
I just learned on my bike that my hanger is stronger than my derailleur. Was not a cheap fix
V tension derailleur
My chain doesn’t like too much teeth. Hahahaha
Understood!
Hope components video pls
Is there a number I can call for help
Sorry bro but I feel like this video is way too complicated. I wish the video would have stuck with Goal, reason for the goal, and bigger WHAT to do, and exact steps on WHAT to do.
Wait, what? 🤯
Bent tension
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You speak much, you do nothing.
Does a better shifter speed up shifts or is that all off the derailleur?
Smoother/faster shifting would be from the Derailleur