#39 SN-28B Chinese Crimper vs Engineer PA-09: Is there a difference for Dupont wires
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I compare a Chinese No-Name Crimping tool with an Engineer PA-09 for normal Dupont wire crimping in Arduino projects and show you if there are differences and if the PA-09 is worth its much higher price or if you can live with a Chinese No-Name Crimper.
My video about working with Dupont wires: • #12 Five Tricks for wo...
Video about crimping in detail: • How to Crimp Micro Con...
Chinese No-Name: s.click.aliexpr...
Engineer PA-09: amzn.to/2S3NT58
or: ebay.to/2R27oKk
Good summary: tech.mattmillma...
If you want to support the channel and buy from Banggood: bit.ly/2jAQEf4 (no additional charges for you)
/ andreas-spiess-7331894...
/ spiessa
![วันเกิดเธอ (TO YOU) - PHUWIN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ROx1Bj3T0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Maybe you watch my newer review before you buy a crimper: th-cam.com/video/25qObkSUHng/w-d-xo.html
I think they watched your video and improved .
Have a look at the details on these.
www.banggood.com/SN-01BM-Terminal-Wire-Cable-Crimping-Pliers-Tool-for-Dupont-PH2-0-XH2-54-AMG28-20-KF2510-JST-p-1301387.html
I love videos that show differences in quality. It helps me to learn what is important.
:-)
So clear, crisp and no frills....I think it is not you but your years of experience is speaking....loud and clear sir. You are doing excellent service to hobbyist fraternity....keep up good work....
Thank you! I am glad I can help.
Just before discovering this video, I ordered one like the first in you review. It took a quite a lot of tries but I did become quite good at making these DuPont style wires. I have recently discovered that, as you say in the video, they do have a tenancy to come unplugged if subjected to a little vibration so when I am sure that I have everything working as planed, I take regular wire and solder the leads directly, that way the build can be dropped or shaken with no worry. I just completed a small 12 volt driven count-down timer for my wife to use when applying her eye drops to treat her glaucoma. It works great, I have it driven by an attiny85 chip, and a 4 digit display along with a tiny passive buzzer for the tune when her time is up. I first wired it up completely with DuPont wires that I made using that tool, then, as I said, I replaced them not only for security, but to cut down the size of the unit so it could all fit into a tiny gs
Thanks for your feedback. Sounds you did a useful project with this tiny chip!
Andreas, I think I know the main source of your problem with the cheap crimping tool: your lefthandedness.
Don't get me wrong, I'm, left handed too, and I noticed in your other video that you have left-handed scissors and other tools, so you are aware that a lot of tools are designed for right handed people.
I already bought a cheap crimping tool from China before I saw this video, it looks exactly the same as yours, but luckily I watched your video before using it, so I was warned.
After the my first crimps also failed to be workable, I carefully examined the beak of the tool and noticed it is not straight, but has 2 different parts, one a bit wider, and the other a bit narrower.
Therefore if you insert the cable in the wrong end, the connector will be crimped the wrong way, and will not fit properly in the shell.
In the video you demonstrate crimping with the tool in your left hand, that is the reason you could never insert the pins in the shells.
The other problem(s) remain, it is still not a very good tool and it is hard to get good crimps, but it is possible with a little practice, and using the tool in your right hand.
The Japanese one will give you a much better result, but I still wanted to share this with you and your viewers, mostly the left handed ones :-)
(yours is the first channel ever that I subscribed too!)
Keep up the good work.
I am aware of the two parts and tried everything. Maybe you got a better quality one and can save the money for an expensive one. Some viewers suggested that there are different makes in the market.
And if you read the other comments in this video you see that I am not alone. And I cannot imagine that all of these frustrated users were left handed.
I am left-handed but would hold a tool like that in my right hand, just as I do with my soldering iron.
Thank you for your comment, I am right handed but I had been struggling for days with a Chinese crimper and no way to get a better one, I just made my first good crimp thanks to you.
I finally found a generic tool that actually does a good job with dupont terminals, the Hozan P-706. Works much better for these terminals than the Engineer PA-09 because it has the correct round die for the insulation crimp. My recommendation is to lightly pre crimp the insulation first then line up the end of the insulation between the two crimp areas and fully crimp it. It makes crimps that are almost as nice as the HT-95 (the official tool for dupont terminals) and pull out resistance is similar. Use the 1.8m round die for the insulation and the 1.4mm die for the conductor. When crimping the conductor line up the "brush" end of the crimp (the side opposite where the strands enter the crimp) with the face of the tool this way about 0.2 hangs out on the other side and forms a bell mouth which will prevent the edges of the crimp from cutting the strands (this is also how the HT-95 crimps them). Another good thing about this tool is that you don't have to worry about over crimping. As long as you are using 22-26 AWG wire you can just fully close the die and it's exactly the right height (as I mentioned I tested pull out and found it comparable to the factory hand tool)
Thank you for your feedback!
Exactly, neither of the ones he has in the video crimp the insulation part correctly. Thanks for that Hozan crimper info!
Ha! I'm one those who bought the heavy ratchet tool and have had nothing but disasters. Like you I've been making JST & Dumont connectors for my Arduino projects. So many were crushed - today I wasted about 2 hrs trying to make 6 crimps. Ended up with all the failures cut off, laying on the bench... and NO cables! 😢. I've found info on this tool elsewhere, and your video convinced me I have found the ANSWER! Thanks so much for the comparison and info. 😁
Glad to be able to help!
Andreas! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for this video. I had the Chinese Crimper. I used to dread making crimps and I almost never got a good crimp the first time. Based on YOUR ADVICE I bought the PA-09. What a difference. Now I enjoy crimping and almost every one turns out perfectly. The only defects are when I squeeze too hard and the crimp shears off the wire.
I heard you say that some have ridiculed you for your accent. I enjoy hearing your accent. I speak several languages and I am amazed at your vocabulary! You are awesome!
Glad to read that you made the same experience than me!
I accidentally bought the Engineer PA-20 crimper instead of the PA-09, but it still worked well for me. I had used a cheap generic crimper like you showed and found it frustrating to use. The crimps weren't good and I had trouble making sure the wire was aligned properly. Since you can't see where the wire is in the big crimpers it can be tricky. I just crimped two connectors on very narrow gauge stranded wire with the PA-20 and it worked much better than before. I feel like I have much more control with it. It may take longer, but I don't mind that if I can get a good result. With the generic bigger crimp tool I often to to cut off failed crimps and redo them. This is so much better. Thank you for the recommendation!
Thanks for the feedback. I am sure, it helps others to decide!
Your comments on crimping tools are just what I was looking for. Time and again I find "Spiess Videos" when I'm looking for some obvious or obscure need. Thanks for your many contributions!!! Some day I hope to know enough to contribute myself.
You are welcome. Thanks for your nice words!
Thanks for posting. I just learned a new phrase today for when it comes to buying quality tools. Spend the extra and"Buy once,Cry once" I think they're words to live by,especially when it comes to precision tools.
Well said!
Thanks for your presentation of our Crimper PA-09. For your reference, we guess the application of PA-09 to Dupont wire is of wrong use because PA-09 is not suitable for triangle-shaped open-barrel in your movie.
+ENGINEER INC. Shige If you read the comments here, it works fine. Which one would be appropriate according your opinion?
The affirmative reviews are of course welcome. However, what we wanted to point out is your video may lead some end-users to a wrong direction because triangle barrels are not applied to PA-09. That is all, and thank you.
As the Engineer spokeperson said, the PA-09 shouldn't be used to crimp DuPont (Mini-PV) terminals. The right tool to use it is HT-95 or HT-100, which is around $1000. I will buy the PA-09 nevertheless, because I am going to use it for JST PH and SM terminals as well as Molex KK and Micro-Fit terminals. These are widely used in consumer electronics and by DIY hobbyists. Right now I am using Knipex 9721215B and Yato YT-2256 crimping tools. None of them provides satisfactory results with any of the terminals I wrote about. I will of course use the PA-09 for the DuPont terminals too, even when the crimpers are not designed to use them for crimping these terminals. The result of crimping with PA-09 is nevertheless much better than any other tool I used. One question for Engineer - is buying the PA-09 on eBay safe? Aren't there any knock-offs of your genuine tools?
Actually there is nice article I found about Engineer crimping tools: tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/
Great article. I just checked mine and they are PA-21, same as PA-09 but with bigger gauges. It doesn't list mini-pv on the packaging but they work well.
I bought a HT-225D Full cycle ratcheting crimping tool. I experienced the same results you did with the SN-28B. Now I'm shopping for a new crimper and was looking at the Engineer PA-09. Thanks for the video it supports the 5 star reviews I've seen for the PA-09.
I am not sure the HT-225D supports Dupont connectors. It is built for different connectors
The issue is the quality of the die manufacture and the way the jaws align as they are closed. According to Multicomp, the marketer of this tool to Newark/Farnel, this is the tool to use for crimping the 2226TG open barrel connector socket and it works about 1 in 5 times. As is typical with Chinese manufactures quality isn't job one. It is OBE as the Japanese PA-O9 tool arrived and works well.
As other comments have mentioned I have used another tool (an IWISS SN-28B tool) and while it took me quite a while to learn to use it well and I seem to have to relearn every time when I have not used if in a while it can make good crimps, but is very difficult to use. After seeing your videos and the comments below I plan to order the PA-09 in the near future. Your videos are excellent and you explain things extremely well.
I would not order a PA-09. I also have this IWISS tool and it is ok. (This is an old video)
Like you I purchased the blue chinese crimper and tried and tried to get a perfect crimp done..... no good..... A bit of fishing around in youtube and I discovered your video and after viewing it I am now also an owner of an Engineer PA-09, thank you Andreas!
Thanks for coming back and giving me feedback!
I wish I had seen this before I ordered the Chinese crimpers but I did see it in time to return them. The PA-09 arrived today and after a little practice I am getting pretty good at it. These are so much better. Thanks for sharing everything you do.
You're welcome!
I was having trouble with the SN-28B connectors misshaping my crimps. Thanks for this video and explanation, I can see the huge difference in manufacturing quality, which shouldn't be surprising considering the comparative price of each tool. I've already ordered myself a pair of PA-09 and looking forward to no more misshapen crimps.
I hope, you will like it as I do.
I agree with your video entirely Andreas.
I bought the SN-28B because it was cheap and as a result I had terrible experiences trying to crimp wires to the Dupont connectors. The tool would either not crimp the wire enough for a sturdy connection, the Dupont connectors would end up bent out of shape, and / or the connectors would not fit into the housings if I finally made a successful connector.
So in total frustration I ended up doing the same as you ... I bought an Engineer PA-09 directly from Japan. After one or two failures during the learning process, every connector made since has worked out great.
So, don't bother buying the cheap Chinese tool.
The Japanese tool is definitely worth the extra dollars.
Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks Andreas. I followed your advice and spent more than 30EUR on the tool and had to pay 15 more EUR in customs charge + 25% tax, so it was and expensive tool. However it was still worth the money and I have made crimps for many servos in my robot build and tool works perfect. I have also watched a few of your other videos and they are a joy to watch. Thanks, and I hope you make more videos.
I am very glad to read that! Thanks for giving me this feedback. It helps to create new videos!
Andreas, thank you so much for this video. I watched with interest and then bought the crimp tool you recommended from Amazon. Also the PA-06 wire stripper from the same manufacturer.
The results are amazing! for a decade now I have not ever managed to make reliable crimps and now they are perfect.
Thank you again and please keep posting.
I am glad to hear that. Comments like these help me to invest the time for the next videos! Thank you
Hi Andreas,
I finally got to work with tiny 2,54mm KF2510 plugs and now also joined the PA-09 community!
The larger one (SN-28B style) is a real pain in the A**, but great in destroying wires and the carefully counted metal contacts.
The PA-09 is really handy and -- like you said -- fun to use. No more frustration!
Thanks a lot for your videos!
Glad to read that! Thanks for your feedback.
Andreas, thank you so much for this recommendation. My PA-09 has just arrived today. Until now I simply could not crimp a Molex connector properly but this piece of metal makes wonders!
I've just seen your video when I was searching for information on the new crimping tool I've had delivered today. The jaws you are using are the 1601-08 that are listed as suitable for non-insulated barrel connection terminals (the kind of connection usually used in automotive wiring looms. The only jaws that might work are not listed for the DuPont connection but are 1601-2546 and are listed for the MC4 solar connection terminal. So all in all you are trying to use a tool designed for different connections. It may have been miss labelled but it isn't designed for you connections are using. It does work well for the connectors it is designed for.
+JM SometimeWoodWorker These tools are sold for dupont connectors as many comments here show. I never investigated in the numbering scheme.
Andreas, Thank you for this video. This is what I needed to see to make up my mind and order the PA-09 tool. I too had the same issues with that stupid SN-28B tool. What a pile of hooey. I've now received the PA-09 and have crimped my first Dupont ends with it. I am a believer. Even though Engineer says it's not compatible with Dupont connectors the PA-09 has quickly, cleanly and securely installed 4 pins on a stepper motor for a project. I am going to toss this pile of junk SN-28B in the recycling.
Anyone on the fence about buying a $40+ tool like this, don't be afraid. I know it looks cheap like the Chinese wire crimpers we are used to seeing. This is not a cheap tool. The business end of this tool is precision ground and machined to the contour needed to do the job. Truly superb workmanship like you expect from our Japanese friends.
Thank you for your valuable feedback. I hope, it helps others avoiding mistakes...
I came to the exact same conclusion. I bought the iwiss tool and then exchanged it because i thought it was defective. The replacement was no different. Both of them would damage the tab that holds it into the shell. I then had to use a pair of tweezers after every crimp to fix the damage and make it work. I have just returned the iwiss and purchased the PA-09 as you recommend. It should be here Tuesday and I look forward to hassle-free crimps from now on. Thanks for the video :)
You are welcome. Hope, it works for you, too.
Got my PA-09 today, exact 4 weeks for delivery for Japan (I guess) , thanks for the review, great tool, great channel!
Now, I hope, it will also work for you!
what website you use to order ?
@@T.A.K14 La tienes en amazon
Hey Andreas, just wanted to come back to this and say thanks - that was a most excellent recommendation. I've had the PA-09's for nearly a year now and it's a world of difference, they work really well. If it wasn't for your video I would never have known. Thanks!
Glad to read that. Thanks!
Thank you for the advice; you have saved me wasting money on buying an inferior product.
I was about to buy a cheaper ratchet tool and saw your video, which made perfect sense, so I bought a PA-09 from Precise Hand Tools Ltd for £39.99 via eBay.
I have just made up two Futaba plug extension leads with my new PA-09 and got perfect crimps first time.
As the man says, you only get what you pay for, so don't be tempted by cheap junk from China.
I notice they also sell the next size up, if you need to do bigger terminals.
Well done and thanks again.
Happy crimping
Glad to read that. A lot of Chinese things are worth every Dollar, but this was just not usable. That was the reason for this video...
Hi Andreas,
Thanks for the tip. I ordered a PA-09 from Rakuten Market in Japan, crimp connectors from Ali Express and wire from
AlleKabels, a Dutch webshop selling cables. I had some bad experiences crimping the larger automotive connectors,
but I completely agree with your conclusion that the PA-09 is an excellent tool. Right from the start I had near-perfect results.
Thanks for the tip, and although globalization has it's dark sides, this is an example of the benefits.
Thanks for your feedback!
Glad I'm not the only one. I bought some crimpers the same as the blue pair in the video, thinking they would be ideal for RC car connectors. But I spend more time with pliers trying to fix problems. Think I'll be ordering a pair of PA-09's too! Thanks for the video
I hope, this will be the solution for you
I thought I was buying the correct tool for the job when I bought the SN-28B, thanks for putting me straight!
So we are two thinking the same. This (frustration) was the reason for this video
Thanks ! after repair a friend's glider I discover some connector was horrible and some line was even free if pulling the cable! very dangerous in a RC glider ! so I abandoned my crimping tool for a PA-09. Thanks a lot to share your experience and many compliments for the video very clear and fine. Ciao!
Thanks for your feedback!
Andreas, THANKS for your vids! I have been using the "chinese" tool and have do not appear to have the issues you report! I do however, crimp 3 times: 1st crimp is in the the LARGE gap to crimp the plastic on the wire, 2nd goes on the smaller to crimp the wire and 3rd crimp the inside. The 3rd crimp usually sets the pin straight...
There are several types of the same tool in the market (see also the other comments). Some of them seem to be ok.
So I have to fully endorse your video, having had a very similar experience. Though rather than Dupont, it was crimping JST 2.0mm PH connectors, which are readily available on ebay. In the end the Engineer Inc PA-09 tool was an absolute life saver. My only complaint was the ridiculously long wait to get it shipped by the Amazon seller.
Thank you for your feedback. It sure helps others!
I discovered Engineer brand tools in a shop called Sengoku in Akihabara here in Tokyo. My purchase was the PA-05 combination wire stripper and crimped for small gauges. Perfect for working with Arduino, Raspberry Pi, STM32 and similar project related SBCs and MCUs. It is simply excellent precision tools they make. True Japanese quality. I have never had a pair of pliers that stripped wire by gauge perfectly like these. Crimping is still not easy sometimes for the very reason the folks from Engineer tried to explain. The little tabs that get crimped on the sides of the Dupont connectors come in different shapes. Some are angled or triangular. You generally want to use the ones that have straight rectangular tabs if possible.
You are right, crimping is not easy. But after a time I got nearly every crimp ok.
Thank you for the video Andreas! I was on the verge of buying the cheapy, but will refrain, thanks to your video. Best regards!
You're welcome!
I bought a pair of these, and they work so much better than my no-name Chinese ratcheting crimpers, it's insane. -- Well worth the $40! -- Thank you for the recommendation. :)
You are welcome!
The biggest problem with "Chinese" crimpers is the variable quality of the many clones from different manufacturers that bear the same type number. I have one marked SN-28B that works flawlessly now that I have worked out the correct technique to use it.
I agree and I think quality improved over time. My IWISS purchased later also woks ok
Absolutely going to buy the PA-09 after watching this. I had the same reservations about whether it was any good. Cannot thank you enough, great review!
You are welcome!
Excellent stuff. I had no real experience of crimping so I naively bought a SN-28B, specifically for a project using JST PH connectors (2mm pitch). I had exactly the same problems as you, especially not getting the terminals to fit easily in the housings and the width of that tool is is too wide, you have to judge exactly where to place the terminal in the tool otherwise it either doesn't fold the larger tabs in properly or it bends the actual connector part. I'm going to order a PA-09 instead. Thanks for posting that!
+Mark Purcell Thank's for you comment. I hope, you will be happy with the Engineer crimper!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I also had always problems with crimping the dupont wires but since I bought this PA-09 tool it almost works every time. Take a little bit practice but now I really enjoy working with dupont wires again :-)
Thanks for your feedback!
I have been crimping for 40 years; I am glad that you found out it was tool and not you.
:-)
I, like many of you, have had to experiment with my crimping tools a bit. I think this is one of those situations where preference is going to play a role. I started with the IWISS SN-28B crimpers. So far the only type of terminals that I crimp are the 2.54mm JST terminals (aka Dupont connectors). I found the IWISS crimpers to be difficult to use like so many others have. I have tried tricks like soldering, which work but I feel I shouldn't have to (after all, JST stands for Japanese Solderless Terminal). I have also tried adjusting the dial on the side of the tool by removing the set screw and rotating the dial a single notch and replacing the screw. This did help the final outcome but it still didn't solve the cumbersome nature of the tool. The primary issue that I have with the tool is visibility. When you have the pin set in the crimpers, it is difficult to get the wire seated just right without having it too far in or not far in enough, and you don't get to find out until after the crimp is finished. I appreciate the concept of crimping both sets of tabs at the same time but in practical application it is more trouble than it is worth in my opinion. I decided to spend the money on a pair of Engineer PA-21 crimpers. I find these crimpers much easier to use. Crimping the two sets of tabs separately from each other is ultimately less awkward and faster. I think the problem with the SN-28B crimpers is that they are not specifically designed for these type of connectors. These style of crimpers (available from many different manufacturers) are generic crimping tools with many different interchangeable dies available for many different types of terminals. I doubt that I will ever use the SN-28B for dupont connectors again, but I think I can still salvage the tool by getting some different dies for crimping other types of connectors.
Thanks for your comment. It will surely help others to do the right decision.
Like you, I was also running into crimping problems. I purchased 2 crimping tools. The 2nd was after I learned that each tool is designed for certain sizes of wire. But I was finding surgical clamps to work better then these crimping pliers. At least, I was up until I just watched a video about crimping connectors before detaching them from the metal strip. Daaaa...... I just tried this with my SN-48B crimping pliers and it works like a charm, provided you are using the end slot on the pliers to make the crimp with.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will try your method without detatching. Do you know the link to the video?
Also. One thing that I have recently started doing. Since I have a hot-glue gun and plenty of hot-glue sticks, I have been putting a dab of hot-glue at the base of the plastic connector. It acts like shrinkwraping, only cheaper. Any stray wires which tries to escape the connector are also held in place by the hot-glue. (Also, many people put a touch of solder on the connector pin. I always end up with too much solder on the pin.)
Since I started using the hot-glue on plastic connectors where and after the pins are inserted, I have heard that many people working in various electronics do the same thing.
(Don't ask me to make a video about it since my use of a hot-glue gun is crude. I am sure that many people are better.)
Thanks for the info. After watching the video I understand now how it works. I will try it with the next wires I crimp.
Thanks Andreas. I have been putting off buying a crimping tool for fear of that very reason. I will take the good advice.
Andreas , I appreciate you taking the time to post your findings thanks very much
Steve Gallagher you are welcome!
Very useful information. I have one of the cheap crimpers and have the same problem as you but I didn't know which one I should get. I have just ordered a PA-09. Thanks!
+jix177 I hope, it will work also good for you!
Thank you!! I bought both, and had the same experience. I just did not know how to use the Japanese one. Finally now I can make some good crimps vs crappy ones that needs modifications to get jammed into the shell. :-)
Thank you for the feedback!
The problem with both crimpers is the wrap around the plastic sheath is wrong. It should be perfectly tubular and firm. I use a combination of the PA09 to do the initial wire crimp and finish off with a specialized tool TZ4228B which can do the sheath crimp correctly. The TZ4228B can do the entire Dupont crimp in one squeeze but it's very hard to set the wire depth, so I use the PA09 to do initial position fixing
I agree that the quality of the crimp is not perfect. So with your method I am sure you get a better result. Maybe I am too lazy ;-)
Danke für das tolle Video, das es mir wirklich hilft, zu versuchen, zu lernen, wie man meine Angelschnüre zusammen kratzt
Schön, dass man das Video auch für andere Hobbies gebrauchen kann. Petri Heil!
Suggest you use different colour cables in your crimping demo making it easier to distinguish which is which crimping tool.
Thanks for the proposal!
Thank you for this review. I made the mistake of buying the cheap crimping tool as well. The PA-09 tool is so much better, good crimps every time
+Tom Allen :-)
Awesome video Andreas. I also had bad luck with Chinese Crimping Tools. I bought one from Germany and Been using it ever sense.
+joseph chrzempiec (josephchrzempiec) I see, you had the same issues. It took me way too long to discover and solve it ,-)
Nice video Andreas! Having used many and owned a few professional grade crimping tools from the big industrial equipment connector OEMs, the quality of crimp I get from my PA-09 makes me equally happy to recommend it . The PA-09 is definitely an excellent tool for hobby use, even a useful tool to have for occasional professional use. The main trade-off is in the extra care required to achieve with this tool almost the same quality of crimp joint a professional tool can repeatedly perform in the blink of an eye. Unfortunately, I suspect many people looking to buy their first crimp tool of this type make the mistake of comparing the price of the PA-09 with that of cheaper tools, rather than the WAY more expensive tools from AMP/TYCO, Cannon, Daniels, Molex, Wurth, Weidmuller, etc.
Thanks for your feedback. It might be important also for other people. So, they don not need to believe only me...
I have the cheap chinese version and it works fine. I crimped a lot of dupont never had a problem.
Good to know.
I've actually had really good results with the SN-28B crimpers I got from Banggood. No problems at all but I want to do Molex Picoblade connectors now too so I'll have to get the PA-09s for those. Thanks for this video, very helpful.
+Ronn Wilson I had (very) few comments about good SN-28 crimpers. So, you are one of the lucky guys!
I got the same ones and they are pretty bad, after 4 months it's un useable
This ENGINEER PA-09 works (gopfertelli) like magic. Very simple but effective. Ends all frustration when crimping Dupont Terminals. Expensive, yes, but worth every cent. Thank you so much for the tip. Regards from the Borneo Jungle and Mery Christmas.
What the hell do you do with a PA-09 in the Borneo Jungle, gopfertelli?
Merry Christmas, too!
Exactly what you suggested, crimping Dupont Terminals for my projects in the heat and humidity of the day. That is when I'm not busy watching your sau guete videos! I have learned such a lot from them, danke viel mol!
Bitte, gern geschehen. Ich wollte eher fragen wie es dich dorthin verschlagen hat ;-)
Ohhhh! Gaaanz lange Geschichte. Teile mich natürlich gerne mit, nur, bitte nicht auf TH-cam. Muss ja nicht gleich die ganze Welt wissen, da schreibe ich lieber einmal ein old fasioned Mail. (Habe Deine Adresse) @@AndreasSpiess
Super!
I just got Iwiss SN-28B crimpers, which have a die shape that causes the crimped "wings" to curl inward (like I think they are supposed to). After a little practice, and initially squeezing the wings that grab the insulation (to keep the wire in the right position), crimping male connectors seems to work OK.
I just realized that the female connectors have a shorter distance between the end of the connector and the metal tab that attaches the connector to the reel. So I can't just slide the connector into the tool until the tab makes contact with the die. If I do that, it crushes part of the connector so that it won't latch into the shell, and you can't slide a pin into the connector any more. I may try removing the tab on the female connectors first, but I suspect that it will be difficult to align the connector and wire inside the tool.
Maybe I should get the PA-09 and crimp the insulation and strands separately?
I would practise a little more with the current crimper. The IWISS I have works pretty good. (I made a second video on this topic where the PA-09 was only second choice becasue it was more expensive)
the difference is obvious on your jaw profile shots, the engineer tool has a well defined "buttock root" in the female die, with a very close valley fit, and a visible radius on the male die face. the ali express example has none of the 3, lol. those shapes are needed to properly form the crimp. because of the far looser fit in the valleys, the crimp actually becomes a stab lock. fine for lead ends on bike cables or fishing line sinkers, barely usable for electric crimps. also notice the mechanical advantage of both tools. engineer, about 2:1 leverage to 6:1, more as the wire gets heavier. no ratchet or compound levers means one actually feels the crimp form. chinese model basically has a fixed leverage at all stations, with a compound lever system. the straight jaw opening to handle throw ratio looks about 4:1, but the ratchet seems to underdrive significantly, so an actual ratio probably closer to 8:1, sans any ability to receive tactile feedback. you basically crush the life out of those tiny dupont barrels with the chinese model. that distortion carries through the pin body, so they have a fairly bad fit in connectors.
I bought the same blue crimpers and had the same issues. I then bought the red ones a while back for crimping 1.5mm JST connections and found they worked much better. I think if one was to find a decent set of jaws for the blue handle ones the would work very well but I have yet to find any. I have seriously thought about having the profiles laser cut and making my own set.
Also, do you have any suggestions for small gauge wire sheathing strippers? I have yet to find a pair that I like. I prefer the kind that clamps the wire and strip the end. I have a pair that I really like that works well for larger gauge wire but they are bulky and tough to use on small projects.
+Jon Raymond I own three strippers:
www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-New-Arrival-Multifunctional-Automatic-Cable-Wire-Stripper-plier-Self-Adjusting-Crimper-Terminal-Tool-6-TK0742/1894649997.html: Not easy for left-handers (as I am). Results are good. Clumsy and heavy
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-YF-046-0-6-2-6mm-Multi-Function-wire-stripper-plier/1583649116.html: Good tool if you hit the right groove. If you hit a too small one it cuts also copper. Needs force for thicker wires. Best for thin wires. My favorite
Similar to this one, purchsed loccally: www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Hot-Automatic-Sale-Cable-Wire-Stripper-Self-Adjusting-Crimper-Stripping-Cutter/32321372384.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.65.7SmPRn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_301_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_8,searchweb1451318400_6148: Hurts the plastic, otherwise ok for thin wires
Hi Andreas. After reading all of these comments, and looking at my own cheap chinese crimper tool... I came to the following conclusion: A better quality version of this blue SN-28B crimper might work for some people. If the die in the tool is not produced by a worn stamp tool. But even then, the double-crimping method will only be successful for specific sized wires. Not just the gauge of the wire but also the thickness of the insulation. Since both must be crimped at same time. Each dimension of which can be quite variable, and independently so on the same wire. So it's probably a gamble at best. That is where the strength of the PA-09 or PA-21 comes into play, doing the wire and insulation as 2 separate steps, one at a time. Is really the only way to be sure to get both of the contact points crimped to an ideal tightness for ANY wire. Regardless of it's guage, material (copper or steel), and it's insulator thickness.
As for my own personal experience, with the SN-28B, it was one of the worst possible examples with a badly worn stamp / die. Trying to make the best of the tool, I had adjusted my technique to find the 'best possible way' after many attempts. But nevertheless, the resulting crimps, although functional to begin with, they were simply not durable in the long term. The inner crimp would never grip onto the wire part tightly enough. So after some multiple usages. Then the wires would eventually get pulled / ripped out of the crimp connector. Not a reliable connection. Soldering can work. However that brings with it it's own different set of disadvantages and drawbacks vs a properly made and secure mechanical crimp.
Furthermore, there was that 1 guy in the comments here, who found cheaper versions of the same general PA-09 design, which are named: "DR-2 5500 5600" and "LS-303B". Neither of which seems to be really tested / reviewed much. I am currently trying to decide how to justify the higher cost of the PA-09 to myself. And in fact choose between all these 4 options (PA-09, PA-21, "DR-2 5500 5600" and "LS-303B"). Which is not so easy decision to make. Perhaps there will be other resources online which will help me decide.
Anyhow I want to thank you for the video and bringing this my attention in the first place. Plus many of the other people here, whose combined knowledge also helped a lot. Some who pointed out the really bad dimensions coming from bad dies manufactured with a most worn stamp. And others who noticed that even the 'true' dimensions in best versions of the SN-28B were will all off / wrong for our intended crimping purpose, either DuPont or ATX pins. You dont mention about ATX PSU pins yourself, however it is very similar to the DuPont connector you are showing here.
After some further scrutiny of it's picture, it's my opinion that the "DR-2 5500 5600" is probably not a good die to use. Not as good as the PA-09, just judging by the photographs. So that was eliminated. Also I really could not decide between the PA-09 and the PA-21, which one to get. So got the PAD-01 kit instead from Hobby King. By using initial account joining points + a generic 10% coupon code... the price ended up being almost exactly the same cost to me as buying the 2 other tools separately. But the thing about the PAD-01 kit is that in total it has even more different sizes than the other 2 combined. And other than that it seems to be more or less the same tool. Near enough. So I believe that I will be happy with my PAD-01 kit purchase.
Received PAD-01 kit today. Did some test crimps on ATX psu power cables. My conclusion is that between PA-09 and PA-21, the PA-09 is certainly the best choice. Since the largest size required for these was 1.9. It is also worth bearing in mind that these tools are really only designed to crimp the inner conductor part only. The shape is not best, when comparing for the 2nd outer insulation part. I am comparing it to the factory cables that came with my PSU. Inner = perfect @ 1.6 size. Outer = too flat on the back side, not as rounded. A rounder profile would be best for the insulator.
[updated] Actually using the 2.2 size in my PAD-01 is not terrible for the insulator. And is far better than the SN-28B in the sense that it keeps the thing narrow enough to fit in the terminal. Without totally squishing it. However unfortunately the PA-09 does not have the 2.2 size. So getting a PA-21 instead would be the best 'single tool' choice however i simply don't know for you people, if there is some tiny dupont connector that requires either of the smallest 1.4 or 1.0 sizes. Which PA-21 is of course missing.
Anyhow [few hours later]. I took the useless die for my SN-28B. And drilled some circular holes into it. In the sizes of 1.5mm 2.0mm and 2.5mm. On the 'back side' so to speak (that says '0.25 0.5 1.0'). Then I drilled on the 'front side' that has the awg numbers like 16 24 28). Here i drilled larger diameter holes, like 2.5mm 3.5mm and 3.5mm. And used a needle file to remove any sharp edges. To not snag the cable. These are just simple rounded holes. With a standard drill bit.
Now my old SN28-B is not 100% useless anymore. The drilled out die can now do a much more circular, rounded crimp. For the insulation only. So if you have PA-09 only, then it might achieve a better result for you, as a 2nd tool, for that last step. Nobody else seems to have come to quite the same idea here. In all of the other comments I read. But I think that it's useful solution to modify the SN28-B, if you already paid for it and bought a dud one. The bad version with a worn die stamp. Instead of just throwing it away as junk. It is not too hard to modify. These round holes you drill out do not have to be very accurate, because all of the mechanical strength of the connection is in the crimping of the inner conductor, which should of course always be done by the engineer PA-09, or your equivalent tool.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It for sure helps others to decide.
Hi Andreas. I found your video because I was trying to solve issues with bad crimping results using the cheaper Chinese SN-28B crimpers.
I have been having the exact same result as you showed ... badly crimped connectors and bent so that they would not fit into the Dupont housings.
So thank you very much for this video. I'm off to buy a good set of crimpers.
+Rick White You are not the only person. I looked also at other videos and saw the same effect. So, I hope you will get also a good set of crimpers...
Andreas, I keep coming back to your videos to help me see what to do and what tool to buy, thanks!
You are welcome!
I have the sn-28b and I've been fighting with it for too long. I finally found it that the dies were upside down so it was always awkward to insert the pins and the compression was just too high so the crimps were always being crushed. Once I corrected the position of the dies and reduced the conversion to they lowest my crooks finally come out good. It look years before I was finally able to find a video that properly explained how to adjust the crimping tool but once I find it everything fell into place.
Good to know it works now. Newer crimpers that look similar to the SN-28B are also ok. I assume manufacturing quality improved over time.
I have used a cheap crimper supplied by a previous employer but was unhappy with the results. I bought a PA-09 after watching another youtuber making connectors.
The PA-09 is the only tool I will use for crimping.
Thank you for your feedback. It helps others to decide.
For crimping servo connectors on 22AWG wires, I am currently using the cheap IWISS SN-28B ratcheting tool for initial crimping and then I use the Engineer PA-09 to finish the crimping to fit properly into the connector plastic housing.
Thanks for your feedback. Here, we would probably call your variant "deluxe" ;-)
I actually only use the Engineer PA-09 on the part of the connector over the wire insulation. If I do not use the Engineer PA-09, the connector is unlikely to insert properly into the plastic housing.
This is good to know, given with clear compelling reasoning.
:-)
Thank you for sharing your experience, it makes total sense! Cheers.
You are welcome!
I just started making my own cables, I removed the wire from some old Apple Printer cables, circa 1998 or so, great wire for crimping and just the right size for use with the Arduino. So to begin with, I used a needle nose pliers, then soldered the resulting crimp. This worked sort of, but sometimes the solder would creep up into the socket and block it, thus spoiling the whole process. So I decided to take more time and be very careful with the needle nose, and eliminate the solder, this has worked fairly well thus far, and I am at the point in my life where a 40 dollar crimpper is way out of the question. I guess I will probably just stick to the needle nose and see how life goes.
Thanks for the feedback. I think, your process is very similar to what happens inside the PA-09. So, if you are skilled with your hands, I am convinced, you get the same results for less money.
I bought the PA-09 on your recommendation - much superior to the ratcheting ones I had before, thanks for the tip.
You are welcome! Glad to read that.
I bought a Crimper tool from Aliexpress.... What a pain ! Never again. Thanks for the video !
You also get better ones. I made a newer video about the topic.
I've crimped a few hundred pins for DuPont style connectors with a GC-7591 using the first top for the pin-to-wire and the first bottom for pin-to-insulation crimps. I usually just rotate the tool between crimps and always crimp in the first top slot. I selected this tool because it was available at a local shop and about 1/4 the cost of 'the right' tool and insert which I was told wasn't worth the extra $$.
Thanks for the tip. Seems to be another valid alternative.
Well, I am not using any crimping tool right now, I do it manually and it is slow but I always solder wire so crimping is just to hold wire in place. (too much time waste)
I know in professional world it would be different story but if you do not use it so much it's not a big deal.
I am going to get some crimping tools and this video is big help to choose my. Also I will get few versions so I will have option which is better for which wire. It can't be all in one and to be all perfect. You must have more tools for same job. You must have an option sometimes one tool can not do some wires well. It is my advice to people...
This comparison was only for Dupont cables.
Perfect!! youtube needs more videos like this! The truth is in the details.. the best tools are from Japan or Germany, period. Thank you!
You are right. And also the most expensive come from these countries (As a Swiss, I know, what I am talking about ;-). With this crimper it was worth the money for me. This is not always the case because I am a hobbyist.
Best tool in the world for crimping servo pins is the HT-95, this is the official factory tool for crimping dupont connectors. If you compare the crimp that the HT-95 does with the crimp from generic double D crimpers it's a night and day difference. It has a terminal loading mechanism that holds the pin in place while you crimp and a cylindrical die that rolls the conductor crimp wings into a tight tube. You can often find these on ebay for less than $100 (though some similar tools that use the same ratchet handle sometimes get mislabeled as HT-95s so you need to carefully compare with a picture of the real tool)
Thanks for your feedback!
Nerd.
Thankyou.
BREAKING NEWS
A $1,500 tool does better job than $29.00 tool.
Great info, thank you.
I always solder, just because I don't have the right tools to crimp.
+ghicione Yea, this was sometimes also my solution. But it did not solve the issue of size. Mine just refused to enter the shells without "brute force".
I have the same blue handled tool. At least it looks the same. The first time I saw your video I agreed with you. I couldn't make it work. Now I like the Chinese tool better and I will not be buying another tool. I like it better because it is faster. Use it correctly and the result is fast and clean. If they only included instructions all of us wouldn't have wasted so much time. After looking at every related youtube video I could track down I finally found a video that shows the correct simple method. Basically the first step is to put only the connector into the tool. Squeeze the tool a small amount until the fingers barely come together leaving a clear hole for the wire. Don't over squeeze or you will have to start again with another connector. At this point the tool will hold the connector nicely while you get the wire. That is obviously the reason for the ratchet. You don't need three hands after all because the tool holds the connector. Next stick the wire into the hole you just made in the end of the connector. Then squeeze the tool the rest of the way. Done! That's it! Clean and simple. 30 seconds total per pin and no other tools needed. And no bent pins that don't fit. And that was first try. I'll probably get faster with practice. In 2 minutes I had all 4 of my pins done and inserted into the connector housing. There were other things I needed to get right that I learned in the video. For example I was putting the connector in the tool upside down. The fingers go into the round bottom hole first and the flat part of the tool pushes against the back of the connector to push the fingers in which curves them around. Sorry I've lost the video that solved it for me (I closed it after my first success) but it shouldn't be hard to find. This method only works for ratcheting tools but for those tools it works well. It is too late for you and me but I hope this note saves others from the torture we suffered trying to make this tool work.
I have a similar crimper and I've been going crazy trying to get it right. you both helped a lot!
Thanks for your exact description. I am glad you are successful with your tool. Maybe it helps others. For me it is too late because I use now the new crimper and disposed the old one.
Were you now succesful?
I bought the PA-09 first despite the higher price because I love the quality of some of their other tools. The PA-09 is also a quality made tool. The tooth is sharp and works well for the conductor crimp. However, as the Engineer rep says this tool is not for the triangular insulation portion of the contacts. The problem is that the the die is just too thin. I didnt measure but it looks like the die is about 3mm thick. The strain relief portion of the connector always gets one side wrapped nicely and the other gets mangled or not wrapped tightly.
Compare that with the SN-28B and you'll see that it has a much thicker die that includes a ridge in the middle for aligning the triangular insulation tabs. As most people know the cheap versions of that tool arent machined very well and dont have a very sharp tooth in the die. However, the IWISS brand one gets great reviews on Amazon and shows a sharp well machined tooth. Best of both designs.
So far I did not have problems with my PA-09
Thanks for this video. I have the blue crimp tool and it is useless. I cannot use it on my 3D printer wires at all as I cannot fit the crimped terminal into the housing. I have ordered a PA-09 now.
When people say "buy cheap, buy twice" it's very true in this case.
This was the purpose of this video. Maybe one or the other can avoid that...
Thanks for the video, I just tested my SN-28B but it needs three hands to crimp my terminals, and is impossible with the small crimps. The PA-09 looks way simpler. I think I'm returning the Chinese one.
+Daniel Wilches Also the PA-09 needs a little training. But it is rewarded with good results...
the wider no name crimp tools aren't bad just very fidgety to use... line everything up so you don't smash the end you insert into your jst housing or whatever you are using and it is okay... i see what you mean about the narrow one being better though. food for thought
I purchased an HS-202B , will review here when it arrives.
+Flo wey Another thing, I have these strippers, I bought them locally for 2,50 , they're my favorite.
www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-Steel-Cable-Wire-Stripper-Stripping-Crimper-Plier-Diagonal-Cutter-Tool-/391342136060?hash=item5b1dcf1afc:g:kLgAAOSwbdpWbnwP
Hs-202B is terrible quality as well.
There are also some crimping tools that look like your Chinese no-name one, but with Electrical Discharge Machined jaws. These have the correct profile and form perfectly the connector without bending etc.
The cheap crimpers have black jaws like the first shown in the video, while the EDM jaws are silver and very accurate and sharp shaped.
Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link for other viewers?
Thanks! I always post the link I purchased because then, the viewers know, that they got the same as I got.
I uploaded some closeups from the tool jaws so you can see their quality:
imgur.com/gallery/uBVgs
Thanks. They are really more precise than my tool.
I, like you, have been very frustrated with my tool similar to your blue tool. Just recently, however, I discovered that the tool is simply crimping too hard. I now ratchet it 3 clicks and then use the ratchet release to open the pliers. There is an adjustment on the side that I believe sets the release point, but I have not been able to move it easily. I'm leaving it alone for now. Ever since I stopped going all the way to the release point, my pins slide right into the connector housing easily.
Thanks for the tip. Maybe it saves some of the viewers money for a more expensive tool.
I had a chinese crimper at home and used it for like 1 connector a month it was kindof fine ... but ...I bought a set of PA-09 few weeks ago because I was heading for a project who need many connectors, they are really good and precise, the 09 is good for molex JRFit, Dupont and smaller open crimps. 09 are not fast as the real expensive Molex tool at $300 ( we got than at the job) but for the price they are the way to go, forget the cheap one if you are making few connector a week ... btw Molex has a nice version of a simple crimper around $75 than also do bigger open connector, Engineer has also the PA-21 ... but I didn't try them tho, probably good !
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Just had the same experience with the cheaper tool. Looking forward to receiving the pa-09.
I hope you will be satisfied.
Either crimper does NOT CRIMP CORRECTLY the insulation part of the Dupont pin. The wings of the pin have to wrap around the insulation and not pierce it and form figure 8.
You are right. But it is ok for hobby
Danke für das tolle Video
I bought both SN-28B and the HS-202B. The SN-28B had silver crimping dies which I thought was the better version, which might be true, but ultimately it has the same issues you pointed out, I can't get the insulation crimp to go into the dupont casing. Even with using a plier to squish the insulation crimp it's still difficult to get the connector into the housing.
The HS-202B creates a good insulation crimp, but terrible crimping on the bare wire. But I think HS-202B is better because it's cheaper and you can still use the tool to flatten the wire crimp almost perfectly. I might post a video showing this.
Also I think you're using the SN-28B "backwards" because you're doing it left handed.
I'm pretty sure the SN-28B is not designed for dupont connectors,, because when I looked at the crimps on factory made wires, the insulation crimp looks nowhere near the same as ones made by the SN-28B due to the arch that makes the insulation wings go into the plastic vs the factory made wires which encase the insulation wings around the plastic.
For Canadians looking for the PA-09, Dazmode sells it and the PA-21 for a little over $60 with shipping+taxes.
Thanks for your comments. Yes, I am left handed, but according the many comments here, this seems not to be the problem. There are a few videos showing how to do Dupont wires with this tool. Also, If you search crimp Dupont on Aliexpress, you get many hits for the SN-28B. So, I assume, that it is intended for Dupont wires, but just not very good made.
A few viewers had better success with SN-28B purchased at hobbyking or Polu.
This video had me absolutely terrified that the crimper I ordered was going to be useless before it even got here, I was just looking for "how to use" videos. Flash forward to it actually getting here aaaand my ratcheting crimper works just fine. Ran two blanks just to get the feel, tried it on two spare wires again to get a feel for it got a pattern down and the first side of my harness came out nearly flawlessly, one wire was slightly too fat to slide into the housing but a quarter second with a pair of pliers solved that. I chock that up to this being the first time I've ever used the crimpers.
On reply gave me some hope ahead of time suggesting that it might be that you're a leftie and as such where inadvertently loading the connectors in backwards, tho watching the video again it looks like all the labeling and ridges are on the correct side. So I kinda think it was just camera flip, that made it look like it was being used incorrectly. That said the wire being crimped in that instance is yellow and the wire we are shown later is blue and the only way I was able to get a result that looked similar to the blue wire with the wire side being that open was to load my connector in backwards.
Ultimately I think the issue is that you probably ended up ordering from a sketchy seller that was just a little too sketchy and they sent you a product with a bad die. Since those are replaceable it probably would have been cheaper to have picked up a die from another seller but if the Japanese crimpers work for you, sweet. Thankfully I've had zero issues with my ratcheting crimpers but the die on mine definitely looks better than the one you showed.
You are right. There are different suppliers, and maybe you were luckier than me and many of the commenters of this video.
I originally bought a standard SN-28B crimper with the same results as yours, awful crimps.
So I started looking around and asking suppliers, and found a HS-B9 crimper, the body is the same, but the die is machined and very high quality, and also completely adjustable, even though I received mine perfectly calibrated and won't try to reposition it.
I paid it around 25€, unfortunately that was the only high quality die they had available.
I saw, that also hobbyking and others have a similar looking crimpers with different dies. So, obviously, you got a good one. Good to know for others which want to buy a new one.They have choice.
+Andreas Spiess
Yes, many serious stores have crimpers wirh good dies, and they usually cost 35 to 50 Euros.
Where did you buy your Engineer crimper?
Thanks for the info.
I have a Velleman VTECT2, which produces a lot better results then what you show at the end from the Chinese one, and with a single action. That is, as long as you crimp AWG24. Thinner like AWG28 is just too thin because it crimps round, not with a middle-dent. So VTEC2 is good at a reasonable price, but I think I will order a PA-29 anyway for the smaller wires.
Thanks
+cybermaus One of my viewers asked which largest wires fit into the small Dupont connectors. Can you confirm, that you use AWG24 wires with Dupont connectors? Are you still getting the metal pieces into the plastic housings?
+Andreas Spiess AWG24 works perfectly for me. Still plenty of space, so I am pretty sure AWG22 would work also. With AWG20 you may have a struggle. But I never did try the latter 2.
I haven't yet seen anyone show how the SN crimper performs when the tension is adjusted. Most "failed" crimps appear to be crushed, and those crimpers have adjustable tension on them. Perhaps a gentler, more accurate crimp is possible with a little adjustment?
I do not know. This is an old video and maybe there are even better tools around now.
The PA09 is great, thanks for the video.
You are welcome.
thank you ...that s exactely the video i was looking for
You're welcome!
I have the same ratcheting crimpers and not happy about them either. I found some adjustments have helped get me close but I still have to use small pliers to finish them in order to fit housings. Not sure if I can find better dies but at this price point I might as well have bought the better pair in the first place
If you read the comments, you see, that you are not alone ;-)
Japanese Manufacturing is world famous, if you read up on the Kaizan Method and 6th Sigma you'll find what your saying is true about manufacturing. I need a pair of crimps and although I love quality sometimes needs must and almost I bought the rubbish kind, thanks to you and your video I know which one to buy now. Cheers
I am glad to read this. And I was already in business, when Japanese manufacturers nearly killed the American Car industry with their quality products... And back then, I did my PhD in quality..
Ive had these exact same issues. I just assumed it was me not doing it right so im glad to know its just because I bought a cheap crimper
+Matt Vermeulen There is another comment below where one viewer was successful with this device with a trick. Maybe you try it. I do not have the blue crimper anymore, so I cant try ;-
I may be wrong, but these arduino Pins are PH 0.2 or XH 2.54 compatible. Therefore the right tooling should be the SN-01BM from the Chinese manufacturer. These are different size than the 28B you used, that for sure are to wide and cause the assembling problems. I got the above from aliexpress and it work like a charm.
Your info is a well kept secret if you look at the comments in this video and also other crimping videos!
Where did you buy yours? Maybe it helps others...
Search for XH 2.54 or PH0.2 if the link does not work
de.aliexpress.com/item/SN-01BM-XH2-54-SM-plug-terminal-spring-clamp-terminals-Crimping-Tool-Crimping-pliers-For-D/32506636704.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.85.alQSpg
Thanks!
I got now this crimper. For me, it does not work for Dupont wires. Mine is too small to cover both crimps as the SN-28B did. So, I stick with my PA-09 and use this one for PH or XH crimps.
Hi Andreas, I measured thickness an mine is exactly 4mm. This is totally in sync with pins and connectors. also 4mm and able to crimp the wire and the cable itself. What is different at your side?
AMP made a crimper they called the "Service Tool" that was somewhat _similar to_ the PA-09, but it had both the "double-hump" and round "insulation" slots to produce both types of crimps. It was good for their nylon "appliance" connectors, as well as D-sub and Dupont types for 24-26ga wire. Might have worked on the 2mm pitch connectors, but I never tried it. Definitely not usable for the finer-pitched ones. After mine got stolen, I discovered that they had discontinued it. :-(
But GC makes a knock-off (model 12-464) that's cheaper, but seems to be about as good as the original.
I have one of the ratcheting tools from Hansen Hobbies with no brand markings on it. Costs more ($40), but appears better made than the other no-name ones. One thing I discovered is that it also makes crimps that are hard to insert when using ordinary 24ga hookup wire, but does pretty well with "RC servo" wire, or ribbon cable, that has thinner insulation.
I never use the male crimp pins for Dupont connectors: the pins are just too flimsy. I bought what you might call "double male" headers that have pins protruding the same length from both sides, instead of a short solder-tail. If the connector is likely to be disconnected and reconnected a lot, you might use a bit of superglue to glue the plastic part of the header to the shell. But I leave them loose, and just let the header stick to whichever female has the tighter grip.
You are right. I only use male pins if I have to (e.g. on the Arduino). Then, empty shells help (as shown in other videos). The original tools usually are good, but very expensive. No wonder it was stolen :-(