Just did this job yesterday. For what it's worth, those M14 bolts holding on the caliper carrier, they don't need to come out. You can skip that step and move right on to removing the rotor and it comes out easy without removing the bolts. Only thing is, just use caution when putting the new rotors on to make sure you don't scratch them along the caliper carrier when installing. But this made the rear job a ton easier. This was on a 2015 S3 by the way so your mileage may vary depending on year and model.
For a Audi A3 8V TDI S-Line(did the rears today, Brembo discs(rotors) and pads) you will need a stubby 7mm socket for the top and bottom of the caliper bolts(because the suspension parts behind are to close for a normal one(so the one i bought was useless!. Good job i also brought a 7mm allen key!). You have to take off the 2 carrier bolts! as the disc will not just slide out!(like they can on some S3's). I used the M14 spline tool on a 10" breaker bar with a swivel head going in from the top right for both the bolts. Going in from the top right there is loads of room with the aid of the swivel head to get the angles(saying that i also went in from the top right when using my torque wrench to tighten them back up"). With a steady hard push down they undone easy IMO(i did have my Weetabix that morning!!). With everything going really well, i even painted the calipers after :). THX for the video it helped me alot before doing mine
Great explanation.. but I’d add that you should pull the slider pins out of the boots and clean and re grease them.. and good practice to line the caliper boot with silicon grease.. .. gonna buy my rear pads and rotors this week
FCP Euro.....Drilled Vented disks have a left and right part number as they are not the same on both sides...and in your vid you installed a right hand disk on left hand side of the car...
almost great work. no manufacturer orders to smear the hubs with grease under the disc. this creates micro wobbles of the rotor. It is not meant to be taken off every month. just clean it mechanically & chemically so one flat surface is facing another uniformly. if You still want to do it at least turn the rotor on the hub several times to evenly distribute the grease.
You make that look easy! I remember doing my 2016 A3 and I swore way more than any other brake jobs i have done lol not much space for the ratchet for the caliper carrier to remove it let alone break it free.....ended up padding the metal with a rag after smashing my fingers lol good times 🤣🤣🤣
Can this process be done in neutral to bypass the electronic handbrake? Just do 1 side at a time and use someone to push the pedal in when tightening the wheels back up?
Note for anyone doing this at home. I did this on my 17 Audi S3 and I still had to use the brake winding tool to release the caliper. I first turned the caliper piston anticlockwise a few turns and then turned it clockwise. This fully seated the piston.
Did you use vagcom ? Or any scanner tools ? I don’t really want to spend the money on something I’m not going to use often? But if so I’ll do it if I have to just curious to know if you did that ?
@@iHadWaterForDinner i had the aliexpress copy scan tool for releasing the brake. Worked fine but still had to push the piston in also manually. Its in forums and apparently part of rostec instructions to push it in manually. No need to turn it any special direction. Old pad and screwdriver and it will go.
So on my s3, I have electronic ebrake, I will be using obdeleven to open and close ebrake. Do i still need to use that manual tool to push piston back or no? Thanks
@@connaghtakairangi6935 no, its really tough and wont go anywhere. Thats how it was on my 18 fusion with the EPB. Did these on an A3 yesterday and also had a hard time with them open/in service mode as well (im rewatching the vid b/c i got a fault lol) but it works?
After actually doing this, you really don’t even need to take the triple square carrier bolts out. I did the job without needing to take them out after all
@@DutchxPRsorry just wanna clarify, you can change the rotors without removing the caliper carrier? I struggled for an hour trying to get those M14 bolts to budge but I have no space for torque lol. , so I gave up.
Question, with these rotors can you put Ate semi compound or it must be Ate ceramic pads? Looking for longevity, low noise and stopping power right of the start.
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.213 | กรีน อัษฎาพร | 3 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3KrlLbCsadI/mqdefault.jpg)
Just did this job yesterday. For what it's worth, those M14 bolts holding on the caliper carrier, they don't need to come out. You can skip that step and move right on to removing the rotor and it comes out easy without removing the bolts. Only thing is, just use caution when putting the new rotors on to make sure you don't scratch them along the caliper carrier when installing. But this made the rear job a ton easier. This was on a 2015 S3 by the way so your mileage may vary depending on year and model.
FCP Euro thanks all for all those DIY projects it really helps!
For a Audi A3 8V TDI S-Line(did the rears today, Brembo discs(rotors) and pads) you will need a stubby 7mm socket for the top and bottom of the caliper bolts(because the suspension parts behind are to close for a normal one(so the one i bought was useless!. Good job i also brought a 7mm allen key!). You have to take off the 2 carrier bolts! as the disc will not just slide out!(like they can on some S3's). I used the M14 spline tool on a 10" breaker bar with a swivel head going in from the top right for both the bolts. Going in from the top right there is loads of room with the aid of the swivel head to get the angles(saying that i also went in from the top right when using my torque wrench to tighten them back up"). With a steady hard push down they undone easy IMO(i did have my Weetabix that morning!!). With everything going really well, i even painted the calipers after :).
THX for the video it helped me alot before doing mine
Doing my q3 2020 rears rn and can’t find the brake carrier bolts to get off to replace pad. Hopefully this video helps
Great explanation.. but I’d add that you should pull the slider pins out of the boots and clean and re grease them.. and good practice to line the caliper boot with silicon grease.. .. gonna buy my rear pads and rotors this week
I just replace them as they're only £25-30 for front & rear slide pins
This video is insane. I just did the rear brakes on my RS3 without a vehicle lift on the original parts. Different experience.
I’m about to do my rear brakes on my RS3 also. How did it go? did you need a scanner? I heard you can just apply voltage to the motor to release it
@@lukealiciousshow did it go? bout to change mine, do you need the scanner?
@@cmanziiI used the scanner. Yes
I’ve watched where the caliper carrier doesn’t need to be removed. The rotor can just pop out.
Just did this yesterday. Can confirm (on the 2015 S3 at least) that this is accurate.
FCP Euro.....Drilled Vented disks have a left and right part number as they are not the same on both sides...and in your vid you installed a right hand disk on left hand side of the car...
Can you post torque specs in the description
almost great work. no manufacturer orders to smear the hubs with grease under the disc. this creates micro wobbles of the rotor. It is not meant to be taken off every month. just clean it mechanically & chemically so one flat surface is facing another uniformly. if You still want to do it at least turn the rotor on the hub several times to evenly distribute the grease.
The rear brake carrier needs to be torqued to 90n.m and then another 90 degrees thereafter, otherwise, great video!
Haha another you tuber torque spec if you think that happens in garages your dreaming 🤣
@@bystander1489 VW/Audi Dealer Tech of 6 years, seen my fair share of these coming loose and flying off while the customer was driving👍
The rear carrier does not need to be touched on these MQBs the rotor just slides past
@@shishuali4821 not all, some of the Tiguans and golf's can't slide out, it's dependent on the motor/brake setup that they have
@@Twiisp I see, looks like I got lucky with mine, thanks for the info 👍
Great helpful video.All the best from the UK👍👍.
You make that look easy! I remember doing my 2016 A3 and I swore way more than any other brake jobs i have done lol not much space for the ratchet for the caliper carrier to remove it let alone break it free.....ended up padding the metal with a rag after smashing my fingers lol good times 🤣🤣🤣
He has such a perfectly round head!
Do you really need the scanner to unlock the electronic parking brake or just need to turn off the parking brake to change the pads?
if anyone is struggling with getting the m14 bolts off just remember you don’t need to take the caliper breaker off for a rotor change.
the carrier? yes you do have to take it off
@@Mike-bj4yt Not on a 2015 S3, you don't. You can leave the carrier on and the rotors can be taken off.
Great tutorial video
Bro please do a video on the tie rods. Got an a3 and these tie rods are weird
Nice vid, easy to follow, good for example thsnks
I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?
How do you do the rear electronic brake? I’m so lost. I need help because I think I’m missing the main thing to do this. I have a 2015 Audi a3
Thanks man, do you have to bleed it after replace the brake pads?
Can this process be done in neutral to bypass the electronic handbrake? Just do 1 side at a time and use someone to push the pedal in when tightening the wheels back up?
No, placing it in neutral does not fully retract the motor. I tried it.
Very good video , thanks for your time!
Thank you for watching, Thomas!
Thank you
Wait these rears look like the Honda 10th gen one. There is a way they do it manually for the e brake
If you electronically open the piston; do you need to screw it back in or can you just compress it normally?
You would need to reset it back to its normal operating position.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Anti squill grease to me is copper grease in the UK
Cant i just open the ebrake inside the car?
Excelente! Thank you!
You are welcome!
excellent guide 👍
Thanks Jason!
Note for anyone doing this at home. I did this on my 17 Audi S3 and I still had to use the brake winding tool to release the caliper. I first turned the caliper piston anticlockwise a few turns and then turned it clockwise. This fully seated the piston.
Did you use vagcom ? Or any scanner tools ? I don’t really want to spend the money on something I’m not going to use often? But if so I’ll do it if I have to just curious to know if you did that ?
@@AlejandroHernandez-fy4qh yeah I used vcds/vagcom.
@@AlejandroHernandez-fy4qh im about to do the same and have the same questions...
@@iHadWaterForDinner i had the aliexpress copy scan tool for releasing the brake. Worked fine but still had to push the piston in also manually. Its in forums and apparently part of rostec instructions to push it in manually. No need to turn it any special direction. Old pad and screwdriver and it will go.
@@egert1064 thank you :)))
I did mine on my 2019 A3 8v.5 using OBDeleven, worst part was buying the tools 😂
So on my s3, I have electronic ebrake, I will be using obdeleven to open and close ebrake. Do i still need to use that manual tool to push piston back or no? Thanks
Just did the same on my golf r (e.g. same rear brakes as s3). I had to use the tool to push back the piston even when I opened vis OBD11.
Yeah. Scan tool just rewinds the motors so you have space to push the pistons back.
Can you push the piston back even without disarming the electronic brake?
@@connaghtakairangi6935 no, its really tough and wont go anywhere. Thats how it was on my 18 fusion with the EPB.
Did these on an A3 yesterday and also had a hard time with them open/in service mode as well (im rewatching the vid b/c i got a fault lol) but it works?
What if you don’t engage electronic parking brake and leave it in neutral ?
I can’t wait to buy an M14 triple square socket and then probably never use it again! Effin Audi 🙄
the one i bought i can't fit a ratchet behind.. not sure how they made that so easy. but i feel this on a spiritual level
After actually doing this, you really don’t even need to take the triple square carrier bolts out. I did the job without needing to take them out after all
@@mitchlachs286Correct, you don't have to remover that bracket to remove the rotor.
Yeah if you tilt the rotor you can pull it out with out removing the bracket. Just be careful putting the new ones in you can scratch them
@@DutchxPRsorry just wanna clarify, you can change the rotors without removing the caliper carrier? I struggled for an hour trying to get those M14 bolts to budge but I have no space for torque lol. , so I gave up.
What type scaner relatively priced can I get to turn off the electronic rear brake or type is the one you used
Obdeleven
OBD11 is your best bet. Also the best bang for the buck scan tool.
Is this the same for a 2016 A7?
Could these be fitted to rs3?
why not just pop it in neutral?
Neutral does not fully retract the piston/motor. I tried it.
Question, with these rotors can you put Ate semi compound or it must be Ate ceramic pads? Looking for longevity, low noise and stopping power right of the start.
You can pair them with whichever pads you like!