no they didn't ever line back up. Its just dumb luck that they did once for me. The important thing is to make them line up when you put the new chain in. If you lose them afterwards cause you spun it over a few times, you can at least count how many links they are off the mark when the double colored one is back near the crank mark....i.e if its off 2 down there, it should be off 2 on both cams as well.
did you have to lower the engine substantially to be able to install the timing cover? the shock absorber tower is so ridiculously close every time i go to put this thing in. i can install it consistently with the bank 1 vvt solenoid housing uninstalled but with it in the cam phaser there's just no room to get the cover in. any advice from you in relation to this will be more valuable than you could ever know. also sorry for dumping all car struggle emotion on you lol, times are tough with this repair currently
In these videos I end up completely freeing up the engine, lowering it towards the ground and sliding it over towards the drivers side, which gives you plenty of room. Now I'm not sure if I needed to remove the subframe from the engine but I did it anyways, because you have to lower the engine quite a bit before the transmission will clear the frame on drivers side and slide into the wheel well. Probably not what you wanted to hear but I just couldn't see a way to do that cover without doing this, due to that shock tower.
it took an insane amount of struggle and i really don't know how it got on but i managed to get the cover in place during a dry run with all the conditions i listed before. i truly don't know what i did differently after 40 minutes of struggle but it at least in place now, no rtv yet. rejoice. your video series on this has been an insane amount of help, you are a blessing to getting my car back up and running
My 2009 6, 3.7L runs great at 115K, change oil every 4K. Debating if I should unload it now, or throw the dice on another year, every month I drive it is a month with no car payment :)
Yep these seem to be a ticking time bomb. I think the best way to catch it before it's too late is keep an eye on the coolant level....but as you can see even catching it before catastrophic failure is no bargain.
@Salt Maker Wow, that's scary, thanks for the heads up. Love my 6, beautiful car, but I don't want to go through all that. My dad is getting ready to trade on his Buick LaCrosse for a leased SUV he can load a scooter into. His Buick a 06, only 85K miles, no issues. I might swap cars with him, so he trades in the 6 instead. I don't know if he has to own it, or if I can just sign over my title to the dealer to save the hassle of us trading titles. In my state if family, no sales tax. Think I'm going to go this route for now to buy me more no car payment time :)
This was an insane job. Thanks for documenting it.
Did your timing marks ever line back up? Having an issue where I lined them up and then hand cranked the motor and they were No longer lined up
no they didn't ever line back up. Its just dumb luck that they did once for me. The important thing is to make them line up when you put the new chain in. If you lose them afterwards cause you spun it over a few times, you can at least count how many links they are off the mark when the double colored one is back near the crank mark....i.e if its off 2 down there, it should be off 2 on both cams as well.
did you have to lower the engine substantially to be able to install the timing cover? the shock absorber tower is so ridiculously close every time i go to put this thing in. i can install it consistently with the bank 1 vvt solenoid housing uninstalled but with it in the cam phaser there's just no room to get the cover in. any advice from you in relation to this will be more valuable than you could ever know.
also sorry for dumping all car struggle emotion on you lol, times are tough with this repair currently
In these videos I end up completely freeing up the engine, lowering it towards the ground and sliding it over towards the drivers side, which gives you plenty of room. Now I'm not sure if I needed to remove the subframe from the engine but I did it anyways, because you have to lower the engine quite a bit before the transmission will clear the frame on drivers side and slide into the wheel well. Probably not what you wanted to hear but I just couldn't see a way to do that cover without doing this, due to that shock tower.
it took an insane amount of struggle and i really don't know how it got on but i managed to get the cover in place during a dry run with all the conditions i listed before. i truly don't know what i did differently after 40 minutes of struggle but it at least in place now, no rtv yet. rejoice. your video series on this has been an insane amount of help, you are a blessing to getting my car back up and running
My 2009 6, 3.7L runs great at 115K, change oil every 4K. Debating if I should unload it now, or throw the dice on another year, every month I drive it is a month with no car payment :)
Yep these seem to be a ticking time bomb. I think the best way to catch it before it's too late is keep an eye on the coolant level....but as you can see even catching it before catastrophic failure is no bargain.
@Salt Maker Wow, that's scary, thanks for the heads up. Love my 6, beautiful car, but I don't want to go through all that. My dad is getting ready to trade on his Buick LaCrosse for a leased SUV he can load a scooter into. His Buick a 06, only 85K miles, no issues. I might swap cars with him, so he trades in the 6 instead. I don't know if he has to own it, or if I can just sign over my title to the dealer to save the hassle of us trading titles. In my state if family, no sales tax. Think I'm going to go this route for now to buy me more no car payment time :)