Should The Row Ban Phones From Fashion Shows? The Row's Controversial Winter 2024 Collection
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2024
- Should The Row Ban Phones From Fashion Shows? The Row's Controversial Winter 2024 Collection
REFERENCES:
Vogue The Row Winter 2024: www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/r...
THE ROW BANNED CELL PHONES FROM ITS RUNWAY SHOW. IS THAT A GOOD THING?: www.highsnobiety.com/p/the-ro...
The Row just outlawed phones at PFW:
www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/...
Don’t women deserve more from fashion? by Rachel Tashjian
www.washingtonpost.com/style/...
Vanessa Friedman Tweet:
x.com/VVFriedman/status/17627...
CREATORS MENTIONED:
@lelasophia • THE ROW BAG COLLECTION...
@NeelamAhooja • THE ROW MARGAUX BAG RE...
@hautelemode / hautelemode - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I’m thrilled about no influencers, everything is feeling oversaturated, it makes me want to buy into the brand even more. Also could not agree more about seeing actual customers of the brand is far more inspiring.
I think the democratisation of fashion has been a good thing but it has also tricked a lot of people into thinking that they are part of the audience when in reality these designers know who their customers are. Women who buy The Row everyday will either not care about the social media ban or love the brand even more because of it.
Every fashion show should be phone-free. I find it alarming how robotic we've all become in this increasingly high-tech world. Good on the Olsens for taking the initiative.
Back in the day, the people sitting front row (the buyers?) had to quickly sketch the garments going down the runway to then pass on to their bosses. Nowadays they can just snap a photo and hit 'send'. People are so used to the conveniences of having a phone that if you take that element away, they act like they can't function.
The Row wants to create a show inspired by the past, swing coats, classic tailoring and film it in analog. Of course they are going to ask attendees not to film. The artistic vision of the show supersedes the timelines of tiktokers, influencers and reporters. Glad they drew the line.
So it's not in Zara or COS before its in their own stores ?
This reminds me of how Netflix & other streaming services ultimately chose to release episodes weekly instead of all at once. It slows down binge-watching & reminds us of how we grew up watching a tv show on cable & waiting for an episode premiere 📺 Sure it’s little annoying but the wait builds up anticipation & allows you to enjoy the show more.
Exactly this! It allows you to take it in, savour it, move on with real life then come back.
I think it's nice. If you're invited as a guest, then you shouldn't use your phone.
If you're press, then you should be in a press section only. Not taking a front row seat that could've reserved for someone else.
Totally this.
In the old days, the photographers were at the bottom of the runway bc they took pictures. Then the magazine editors and buys were front row.
I actually love it. It’s the designer’s collection. Their content. They release images how and went they want to. They don’t have to allow cameras or phones. I find it very refreshing and creative.
Asking attendees to be present. I love it.
Good for them, they are a private company. Prada did this in the 90s.
Loro Piana, which has been by far my favorite brand for my lifestyle, does not participate in shows, they have presentation on mannequins and they release pictures of their collections. I love every 6 months looking at those pictures and fantasize which look I will choose for the upcoming season. I just saw the LP release of the FW 24/25, just stunning.But now it is almost spring, I will book my appointment at my local LP store and let's see what surprise will reserve for me. Each season I never end up going home with what I thought I loved 6 months ago on an images. So forget about blowing your budget on a Margaux and then running into Zara to get some cheap pants. Each season, pick one stunning outfit that you will wear and ,sooner than you think, you will have a fantastic wardrobe.
Mary, I love your videos! I looked at these photos on The Row's website, but your explanation of each look is like an education in art, photography and fashion! Well done!
While I missed watching the collection on youtube, I actually appreciate their decision. In the times of short-lived trends, k-pop starlets, and cheap designs, visual over-saturation, I see this as something that makes me respect the brand even more and check their website. I won't be surprised if other brands would follow their path.
Lovely to see you pick up on the East Asian references! Also the collection reminded me heavily of the Orient Express. Influencers aren’t exactly pillars of democracy themselves anyways, and Tamara Kalanic really did turn me off the brand for several months.
For the fashion press media world to so strongly push designers into designing “a universe” and a woman/man/other (think, the [insert brand]’s woman is…), as well as the common business sense to target your audience, it seems so strange the negative reaction to the phone ban. In as uncynical and respectful a way as this statement can be, Tiktokers and “influencers” who cannot afford The Row hold no weight in their business. And it seems the people who can afford it, enjoy the idea of exclusivity (the if you know you know, in-crowd mentality). Whether it be exclusivity in quality, price point, and now visual access. The “universe” (I hate the idea that designers should create “universes” to house their work in) The Row has cultivated is not democratic. Calvin Klein or Diesel or Tommy Hilfiger, for example, are democratic (to the degree any company can be). That is the ethos they have built. That is not the practice or goal of The Row, and that’s fine. And the complaints seem even more trivial given the collection was shown publicly within a week. The idea that people are owed instant gratification from a private person or business is pretentious. All thats really changed here is a one week delay until the larger public is able to view the collection. There really are no broader implications other than a business playing to their consumer base, increasing interest and allure, and wanting to control the flow of their visual output. It is not that insane, really.
Vanessa Friedman saying she's "grown up" enough to Mary-Kate and Ashley was a deliberate term.
LOVE how you refer to the possible price of the coat as "5 or 6 Margaux's" lol
I support The Row on their no influencers policy. Not all influencers, influence fashion in the right direction. Most just do it for a 15-mins fame and a quick money grab. The real deal comes from The Row clienteles, who live and breathe The Row's aesthetic to the very core.
Great idea. Participate in life, rather than observing and recording.
There were many pieces in this collection that I coveted, with the first swing trench coat at the top of the list! BRILLIANT ❣️❣️❣️
I think it was a really smart move. No doubt, they want to keep the focus solely on the brand. I wouldn't be surprised if other high end brands followed suit.
I love what they did! Not everything has to be NOW. I remember the joy and excitement of going to the store to pick up the September Issue of Vogue and see the trends...
Do not get me wrong, i am thrilled that we have access to infirmation, live streams.
But putting away the phone, taking it all in and being in the moment is precious❤
Honestly, looking forward for the hype to be over and influencers selling their Margoux (because it was never their style) and moving on to the next big thing
This was very refreshing. Such a shame when you are watching a show and see everyone on their phones. I also like that they didn't invite influencers. To me, influencers like Caro Daur have no real individual taste or aesthetic, they just buy into whats trending or what brand pays them the most (and all the power to them!). It makes no sense for someone like that to be at a Row show. I also think its interesting they did that after the rise of The Margaux, which now every influencer has. It is almost The Row's way of saying "we don't need you and don't want you", because in the end, I would think these type of influencers are not who Mary Kate or Ashley want representing their brand.
The pencil and paper idea is on brand. They want the intimacy that comes from the tangible.
The colour photos have a very painterly feel to them. Think Vermeer. The way the women are posed as solitary figures within sumptuous interiors, lost in their own thoughts and with a wonderful play of chiaro scuro. It's Like saying: "observe our works of art". If you focus on the clothing only you lose out on the full experience of these images. I'm not surprised that they wanted to control the picturesl that are released. After all, what could be the more exclusive then dictating precisely how your collection looks like in social media immediately after the release of the collection? A logical and intelligent move that feeds into the exclusivity of the brand. Instead of hype and frenzy, you have silence, contemplation, a play of light, a feeling and much beauty. I'm impressed.
It’s their show. They can decide what they want. We still love The Row!
Life goes on without phones ...x
I never understood why there are so many cameras out at shows. High definition, detailed photos are published online and are available virtually instantly afterwards. Your snaps taken at from the corner of the second row is very unlikely to be better or more illuminating than the brands' professional photographer, taking shots with their professional equipment, at the most optimum angles and lighting. You're just missing the show for nothing.
From a brand's perspective, the mise-en-scène and fantasy is shattered when you see rows of hundreds of illuminated screens too. The vast majority of viewers of the show will be at home watching the recorded version, it's not a good look when a dramatic shot of great work is interrupted by these squares or light littering half of the screen. More of this please, the Row.
I find it refreshing, its nice to have it presented to the broader audience in a different way. i love that trench coat dress, so cool! great video 💝
I am obsessed with the black raw edge midi dress and those retro coats are gorgeous! When people come to our house for dinner or any events I notoriously take their cell phones and put them in a basket and...wait for it....EVERYONE has the most fabulous time! I love those ladies even more now!!!
Finally, you should be fully present for the shows collection. Instead of constantly worrying about taking photos/videos. Any journalists/press should be able to take photographs but have their dedicated section of the show venue.
Amen to banning cell phones. I always find it distracting when I see cell phones in runway shows. Less social media will likely mean fewer people buying the clothes who really can't afford them, then going into credit card debt. We've gone too far into negative territory with influencers.
I love that they banned phones. People should have their full attention on the show and enjoy it. I’ve just recently found your channel and I love how detailed your explanation of their show is. Wish I could afford to buy one of their pieces and they would come in petite sizes. 😀
Thank you Mary for your amazing video
The variety of textures in the KKUWAN pack is impressive. From smooth leather to textured suede, there's something for everyone.
Runway shows are an important part of a brands’ artistic expression as well. I don’t really understand why they couldn’t ban phones AND also have a single videographer take a video of the runway show and publish it? Seeing clothes animated and seeing how they move is also an important part of understanding a collection and helps communicate artistic vision.
I thought it was bold & refreshing. You have to draw the line, so good for them! They are continually fighting back society’s push to make them an oversaturated brand. The love for the margeaux bag has “viralized” their brand to so many new eyes/tiktokers I feel like this was there push back/ reaction to that. You can still see pics or go in the store if it’s really that big of a deal. Fashion lovers used to do this in the past to actually feel the clothes as well. Nowadays you do feel pressured to capture every moment on your phone instead of just enjoying it. So good for them, they know their demographic.
Loved your video! I actually think it’s more democratic that we all get to see the images at the same time, because we can’t all attend the show obviously. I agree with you, they aren’t about influencers like other brands and yet they have become a trend in social media! Yes, the irony..To me it just says they remain loyal to their original customers/inspiration (as you articulated so well!) and their brand. Thank you! ❤️
The Row is simply the most covetable brands in fashion sectors today. Everyone who is anyone who cares about anything to do with fashion is thinking about how they can look like MK&A Olsen from the moment their alarm goes off in the morning. Thats said, they're confident enough in their brand and aren't hungry enough to "need" influencer's and celebs snapping and filming to entice. Truth is, everyone who is almost anyone is wearing it. Jlaw and Zoe K amongst others are buzzing around daily in NYC, that's all the advertising they need. Plus, like who wants to go to a great deal of trouble creating something special only to have people completely distracted by their phones? I love it and think "thank goodness!" Maybe other brands will follow. Those little twins are majooooorrrr trend setters. can't wait to see.
Good points on this topic!
I liked your comment and especially the Margaux currency 😀
Loved ❤❤❤❤❤ your review. It was spot on. Now just wish I could afford to buy a few of these delightful goodies……..🤗🇨🇦
I love following what The Row brand does every season, and yet what they did this time didn't annoy me, rather it felt so refreshing. That decision they made, makes me respect the designer duo even more. I'm disgusted with the buzz and obsession around influencers and celebrity during the shows. I do not care what they are wearing, I want to see pieces that the creators make.
For me seeing items on regular people, no matter how wealthy or not they personally are, makes the brand and the whole experience more real, while seeing someone famous wearing any piece from any designer house makes it more of an illusion like something I would not or could not get my hands on.
I'm all from banning phones/cameras. Enough already. This is not a public interest matter, there is no basis for being "indignant" about access to information. . I hope fashion houses all follow suit (and people at their weddings, events, etc.). There will be images, just be in the moment! This is such nonsense young- generational outrage about this request (clearly, I grew up in pre-internet times and, as much as I love the digital world, there are worthwhile things we can recover, like actual attention spans and.....old fashioned patience).
I'm all for banning phones but they should consider allowing cameras for the press at least.
After their childhoods and their college years, they are understandably wary.
Oh, they are very adept to utilise their "wariness" as it suits them...a controversy is the best "unpaid" advertising...kudos...but don't get too cocky...
I love The Row and I LOOOOOVE this move.
You look good. I loved that they did the no cell. Geez can’t we take a break. We got to see it a little later. Let’s face it they are at the top of there game. Let them wield a little power. I bought this season scuba skirt only 790$. Lol also the very thin Cadel trench. Which I love. It’s past season so cheaper
It blows my mind that people watch any live events through their phones 🤓 what a sad state of affairs, if I’m lucky enough to be at an event in person, I fully immerse in it, why wouldn’t you ☺️ !!
Love the coats … I am totally ok that row draws a line
Their show. Their call.
Honestly I do not care if the audience takes or not photos/videos but not being able to access digitally to the collection ("us the public" during fashion week) made me feel so far away from the brand, it made me feel like the brand it's becoming so elitist (fashion in general is already so unreachable IRL and only accesible on the net). I'm so glad that the photos are accesible on the website now! but I am very envy of those who could experience the collection which proves the point of the ban lol
1:22 that is such a bullshit statement. U can wait a few days and professional pictures will be uploaded online. Like from every other show too. This is not about elitism. It’s the houses way of dealing with an audience and to be honest, good they did it. Everytime i go somewhere people are taking pictures instead of enjoying the moment. Super stupid
This is so on brand for the social media-less heads of this company I’m frankly shocked that so many people were shocked lol. I think it’s interesting how we’re so accustomed to the unfettered access of so much in the world that people start feeling entitled to access art, immediately, for free, even at the expense of the artist’s vision for their piece or show.
Now for the photography: he seems very influenced by Saul Leiter without being derivative. Which is PERFECT for creating this atmosphere of elegant women of a time long gone. As a photographer myself, this is the most excited about images from a show I’ve been in a long time.
I agree! I was more shocked by those in shock! Ohh great point about the photography inspiration, it was so nicely done❤
The 50s were a horrible horrible time for women in so many ways .... 😅 No we dont want anything reminding us of those days. Thanks
It's really not a big deal. This is a private company.
I like that they didn’t allow phones. When you see showed everyone in the audience is just holding up phones to post content, they aren’t taking in what they are seeing as they are too preoccupied.
I’m sorry, but I’m utterly sick of seeing the Margaux everywhere. It wasn’t a bag I wanted, but now it’s a definite no. Sometimes influencers can have the opposite effect. 🤷🏻♀️
Forgot to add…The Row know what they are doing - they have everyone talking about this. Now watch other designers copy them…
I like it!
Exclusivity, is the basis of any high end fashion label. Why do you want peasants and sheeple lowering the value of a brand that your face, name, and reputation is attached to. The quite luxury aesthetic was trending last year for a reason and unfortunately that made a certain demographic of people believe class is about a fashion style and not behavior and having money because the aesthetic became accessible. People who can afford to wear the row behavior is different.
💗💗💗
I love love love all of your points as always. Even though I truly loved their approach to this runway season, I also completely respect and understand why, especially journalists, were upset. I’m such an analog girl myself, and have only/will only ever use film for my own brand so I know the delicacy that goes into that process. I love the simplistic/metaphoric “taking back of the reigns” this year and found it to be quite refreshing. In a world where everyone has, and is entitled to, a very public opinion, I relate to the desire to curate visuals in order for the most authentic opinions to be made 🤎
As a fellow millenial I say these influencers can cry all the crocidile tears they want as they create more temper tantrum content that they aren't invited to this show. WHO GIVES A FLYING F@#%?! Seriously. This era of pandering & narcisissm needs to end. I'm a thrift store shopper. That is my budget. Am I going to cry because I can't see some stupid compilation on TikTok??? NO. I'm going to wait patiently, respect the Olsen's creative process, look at their website, go, "Wow I can't afford that, but it's beautiful & inspiring." Then shop my own closet, because I literally have majority of these silhouttes in my closet currently anyway & then move on with my life.
I'm going to echo someone else's comment from this comment section. "Less phones in public spaces."
It really creates a lot of visual clutter, & takes away from the natural beauty that surrounds us ALL the time.
Seriously. Tiktok has really only blown up in the past 3 years and frankly we were just fine before it. If the Row wants to go pre-tik tok, maybe even several decades back, for 10 minutes I'm all for it. Fully agree, so much inspiration in how I can find new ways to style existing items. Thank you so much for watching❤️
To Vanessa, and all the others (with no life) who felt Frustrated: GET A LIFE (or a good lover) get out of your bubbles
The ROW is influencer
First
Ahhhhh first of all I just have to thank you for the kindest sweetest shoutout 🥹🥰😍 sending to my mother immediately who will be overjoyed with your kind words 🥰🥰🥰
My mother began collecting The Row when it certainly was not cool to do so, but she simply couldn’t get enough. Now that’s she’s been a client for so long, our other family members of serval generations/ages have began or want to begin buying The Row this year which just makes me so happy to see how timeless and generation-less it is 🖤