People are on their phones WAY too much and I think what miffed a lot of people was the fact that they couldn't brag about the fact that they attended this show on their social media platforms but rather were instructed to live without their phone for an hour or so. It's really gross seeing all those phones out in the front rows of all these fashion shows, most of these people in attendance aren't even watching, they're just filming. At that point, why even have a show? The Row banning cell phone usage during the show is refreshing, good for them!!!!
As usual, you have such an interesting and insightful take on this topic. As someone who has been a fan of Mary Kate and Ashley for decades and has followed their careers in the fashion industry since their first line at Walmart, them asking people to not take photos or video at the show didn't surprise me. Given how intensely private and camera-shy they are these days (e.g., Ashley carried and birthed a kid without so much of a rumor about her being pregnant), I feel like the way they choose to live their lives is often reflected in the way they run their business. I also think there's an argument to be made that The Row is just a successful passion project. They're designing for women like themselves; very wealthy women who want elegant, understated, well-crafted pieces that can make up a wardrobe. They don't care about the aspirational shopper because they don't have to. The business is family-owned and operated so they don't have to cater to shareholders and it's evident they're not out to make billions because they already have them. With all that said, I'm still not sure if I would call the brand elitist. Elitism implies an air of superiority that I don't think The Row is trying to project. I think it's just a brand that's inaccessible to most, which means it's truly exclusive and therefore irksome to many lol.
I really don’t understand the big discourse with the no photos and “elitism.” You’re not allowed to record at a ballet, weddings, and art shows. (not always of course) and when I was younger there was this rule at dance recitals. It’s definitely choice of the artist and the fact of they encouraged people to write with pen and paper …. it’s definitely a tactic that keeps people in the present with their own thoughts.
Your point is definitely valid but fashion is always going to be different because the pure intention of fashion is commerce. Luxury fashion is also steeped in elitism and exclusivity from the get go (the unattainable nature of it is actually what creates the desire and draws people to aspire to it). So that’s why anything that creates an even bigger separation between the have and have nots can spark a conversation around elitism. Ultimately, like you said it’s the choice of the designer and I argued for and against it in the video. Just playing devils advocate and then seeing what everyone else thinks.
With current "quiet luxury" trend still ongoing.. social media over exposure gonna make their brand look boring and repetitive.. eventhough they've been doing it way before the trend
A point I made in the video & my issue with relying on just Vogue runway images is we miss out on the back details of every look which is actually a huge omission of information when you think about it. That’s why I do enjoy watching the videos that influencers post with the back details present. If I can’t get to the showroom this is the only way I get to see this stuff. For a journalist like me the more information the better which is why it can be an issue but I also understand most people don’t need to delve into collections that deep neither do they have the time to. This is my job, other people have more important responsibilities like taking care of their kids, their jobs, other interests etc.
@@FashionRoadmanI understand that issue with relying on Vogue Runway, but I think The Row wanting to dictate the visibility of their product (when and where the collection is seen) will in the long term be beneficial for the industry. If anything, I think the push should be for brands to find new ways to showcase their clothes in more comprehensive ways. Most already do, fashion runway footage usually catches the backs and sides of garments regardless of when the footage is debuted to the larger public. And if the public only has still images available, the encouragement should be for additional “detail” shots of the backs and sides to become commonplace. Really, I think the issue The Row has is with how people engage with instant gratification. It is truly absurd that establishment fashion media such as Vogue are expected to view, evaluate, and review collections within 1 or 2 hours. It’s even more absurd for there to be an expectation of the larger public to lend credence to any such review given the mechanical turnaround of such thoughts. There is nothing wrong with initial impressions, but these impressions are put forth as definitive, lasting statements. I can’t imagine they should be. There is a bad habit that has formed by way of instant gratification that things must be instantly and permanently judged. It’s like when a musician releases a project and within 20 minutes people are giving long winded takes about how terrible or great the project is. We’ve all seen it. A rapper, for example, will release an album and within minutes people are heralding it “album of the year” or “this is their worst project in 5 years” and so on. This conveyer belt process of instant access and instant judgement leads to instant turnover. It’s the constant scrolling phenomenon. We are trained to move on instantly from one thing to the next and process them all the same. It’s strange too because we aren’t seeing things fundamentally new, which leads to burnout. Algorithms are trained to give us more of what we view. If I enjoy movie clips, I will continue to see more and more movie clips until my entire interaction on any given site is movie clips. The clips may be of different movies, but the fundamental category remains the same. I dont think The Row fits well into this process (I dont think anything fits well into this process but I digress). The Row is extremely high quality, extremely expensive clothing that is meant to last lifetimes. Living is not instant. Life is complex, ever evolving and changing, always providing new stimuli, new experiences, and new perspectives. The things we carry with us throughout life live in their own way through us. We really ought not burn through them at unsustainable speeds. This instant process we’ve become trapped in, in my view, has created an “entitlement” and at the same time an inability to fulfill and insatiable need for more “instants.” I really don’t mean to come off like Ted Kaczynski lol. Anyway, I think the extreme reaction to the simple request by The Row to not have phones present at their show goes deeper than journalists feeling slighted or the public feeling left out due to whatever entitlement they perceive they deserve. I think The Row made a choice to - as much as they can - remove themselves from the conveyer belt of the instant. As an ideologically slower paced brand, I think this is the right choice. I think more companies should consider ways they can escape this impossible system as well.
I don't think what they're doing is elitist at all; I think its a direct rebuttal to how insanely fast paced EVERYTHING is in the social media age. You said it yourself, you might have a three hour turn around time to get your review of the ENTIRE collection up. The ENTIRE THING! That's insane and unsustainable, and I am willing to bet that it decreases the longevity of what The Row and all artists are doing. I think what they're trying to go for is staying power, where the clothes (or other art forms) aren't immediately forgotten about after being "engaged with" immediately. I think what they're trying to say is sit down, enjoy the clothes/art we made, and be present in that experience. Who really cares if a review of art comes out in three hours or three weeks? That art will still be available either way.
I wouldn't consider myself a fan of The Row's design style, but I'm consistently fascinated by their approach to luxury and branding. What particularly stood out to me among all the unique things they did for this season's collection was how they filmed the runway show using analog cameras. Going off of your point on how the process of developing the film is a suggestion to savor and slowly consume the collection, it's almost as if time has become a luxury in of itself. Indeed, only the ultra wealthy have the leisure time and fortune to be that intimate with the brand's designs.
That is such an interesting and well thought out point. In the current state of the world, you're lucky if you can afford time for leisure, so time is a luxury in this sense and if luxury is what the Row are aiming for, they've nailed it.
I was told the real buyers of Haute Couture, the ones with old money never attend anymore due to all the bloggers and influencers who have taken over the front row with phones.
Probably very true and it wouldn’t surprise me. It all depends on the reason the person goes to the shows. I genuinely don’t know what the huge fuss is about going to shows in general. If I can go to a showroom that’s perfect for me - where I actually get to see the garments up close and ask detailed questions about the collection to staff members of the brand or sometimes the designer themselves.
I’m so glad you said that you don’t get to see the clothes that well at the show. Often the models are galloping past you for less than a second and you get barely a brief impression of the clothes (to the benefit of some designers).
100% that’s why I keep trying to make it known to designers that I don’t mind if they give my show seats to someone else if I can come to the showroom / re-see. That’s the real place I can get into the nitty gritty of the clothes.
This “no phones/pictures” policy reminds me of some museums/artists’ policy on banning taking photos of their artworks. It’s very aligned with The Row’s love for art, too, visible in their stores and socials. Maybe it was as simple as that- a sit back & savour the art type of thing. And nothing about entitlement whatsoever.
I think The Row was hoping to create a sense of authenticity at their show, but WTF is authentic these days? I'm sure there were rounds of conversations in their design studio about how this "ask" might be handled by the public and press and I'm sure they did not care. As is often said, "any publicity is good publicity". But in their defense, when you see clips of runway shows often you just watch the audience trying to get the most instagramable image. I recently saw clips from a show and there was an "influencer" in the front row, chomping hard on gum, as he took pics of the show on his phone. It was the most distracting thing I could imagine witnessing. So in defense of the Row, in this case, it would be easier to focus on the fashion if no cameras were allowed and not those in the peanut gallery trying to enhance their own influence.
This is a great take. Also the Olsen twins whole attitude is very “fuck you.” You are right, they don’t need to conform to a traditional Fashion Week template. They can really do do it their way which a lot of brands/designers can’t say.
I fully support the Row with their initiative. On the more obvious level, it is well-known that camera distracts people from actually seeing, memorising, experiencing things (this idea about photographs alienating people from the true experience goes at least as far back as Erich Fromm's "to have or to be", it is also reminiscent of Benjamin's "work of art in the age of mechanical reproduction", but there's some nuance, one can also remember Debord or Baudrillard). And yet, if the Olsens stopped here, I believe that talks of elitism or even hypocricy could hold some truth to them. But they have proposed a clever alternative: sketches in fact help people to spot, understandб and memorize elements of design, be it clothing or architecture. This is the reason why sketching was considered a crucial activity when I studied architecture. It is also slower than photography and requires thoughtfullness and contemplation. So this thoughtful gesture by the Row made me love it even more. It is not elitism but respect to the show attendants.
Thank you so much for your videos! I adore haut couture, but am not a part of that world. When I watch your videos, it is like watching documentaries about far away lands that I love learning about. Again, thank you. OH! I lived in Paris. That is a beautiful hotel room! You are very lucky to have it
I loved this. Fascinating topic. Regarding the "bought" journalists and magazines - it's such a shame. Seems like so many people are bought or sponsored that it's hard to get any real critical information or know who to trust.
While them discouraging sharing the runway online does seem a bit pretentious as they are essentially saying to the audience that you can't fully appreciate the show if you're focused on sharing the show and not experiencing the show, it does seem like a very clear way to essentially force people to actually view the show (the main purpose of being at a runway show). It also encourages the idea that there are some things that are simply not accessible to the general public, and that people should be ok with that. With easy access to almost any information through the internet, it's interesting to see a brand go against this, and I think it can encourage fans to look deeper into the brand (beyond a quick google search of the show) as the show may not be readily available.
Very interesting take. I do also agree that not everything has to be open / available to the general public. In fact, sometimes opening everything up to the anyone can be detrimental to a space for many different reasons. It does tend to be the case that for some strange reason people feel like they must be included in everything. For example, I personally will never be a customer for The Row so I would never expect or care to visit the show or showroom. The Row is one of those brands that I talk about once in a blue moon because there isn’t really much to say season to season compared to other brands that really interest me like Loewe, Thebe Magugu etc.
For a label whose show is probably a comparatively meditative affair compared to most other shows - no flashy set, no celebrity models, no conceptual statements - the decision to not let anyone photograph or film the show really doesn’t lead to missed social media opportunities. At the end of the day it’s back to basics - buyers, press and clients watching the show firsthand. I am definitely not their target market - I’m not rich enough to dress so expensively yet so unassumingly. But for a brand which prioritises wardrobing over seasonality I just don’t find sufficient innovation to justify all the hoohah or to create the sort of loyalty they seem to earn. Seeing them on the rails juxtaposed with Jil Sander and Bottega and Dries, I find the latter labels far more interesting in terms individual pieces, and even finishing. The Row is great at identifying the archetypes of an Everyday wardrobe - the tuxedo blazer, the trench , the penny loader... all in the dusky neutrals so so beloved of every brand from COS to Hermès, so yeah for the woman or man who can afford it by all means buy it, everything works with everything. I just don’t feel there’s enough being tweaked to count as design. And occasionally when they do do something quirky, like crochet, it just seems like an anomaly and honestly a bit of a tired one (who hasn’t done a doily or crochet blanket by now?)
Definitely agree with what you’re saying. It also doesn’t help that due to the quiet luxury trend, many brands like Gucci have entered an era with a more subdued aesthetic. It has created a landscape where you can buy the same clothes across 20+ luxury brands. Fashion at the top level has never lacked individuality to this extent since I’ve been covering it.
As complicated as my feelings about Phoebe Philo are, I loved her quote "The chicest thing is when you don't exist on Google." The Olsen twins, as famous as they are have an almost negligible social media footprint. I think it's because 1) they could afford to do it in a way other designers can't because they are the celebrities other celebrities are excited to see in the wild and know they have a reliable client base regardless and 2) I've heard about the outrage from fashion journalists more than I've heard about almost any other show this season. I think not capturing the fact that you are in attendance and focusing on the clothes will separate the wheat from the chaff going forward. I think the true luxury is not needing to prove you were there. I'm excited about the lookbook and I've no doubt the Olsens will open up their showroom to people they consider valuable in terms of coverage. I don't think an emphasis on the clothes and not the spectacle (whose kid was modeling, what was the concept, who was front row) will hurt them in the long or short term. Ironically this approach DIDN'T work for Phoebe Philo, partly because she never had the household name cache MKA do and partly because her collection just wasn't that good, but was still in terms of price point, poor website design and lack of alternative outlets, largely inaccessible.
Wow. I honestly have never been into The Row, and I remember when they first dropped. I think the style, cut, and design of Phoebe is on a much higher level.
Good for the banning of cell phones at The Row. I'm in my sixties and have attended plenty of fashion shows over the decades although smaller more intimate shows and long before cell phones were invented. I don't get why people can't just be in the moment these days. I find the constant arms extended and cell phones aimed at about everything and everybody very distracting. And I won't even get into selfie sticks. And yes, there were cameras/film photography back in the day taking footage of some shows, but those were professional photographers documenting, not Loddy, Doddy, and everybody aiming cells phones at everything with glaring blue screens. And there were fashion journalists taking notes on paper with pen. Also if I saw something in a fashion show that I was interested in buying later, then I wrote it down. Plus, actual clients would also get invites to shows and didn't have to be ones who were spending celebrity money. There were catalogues and not only for high end fashion. And there were sales associates who regularly contacted one when certain items came in of possible interest. There were also trunk shows. One also looked at fashion magazines, especially the September issue of Vogue. Everyone wasn't in such a revolving door hurry for everything. And there wasn't the overexposure of fashion items like there is now. There's little element of anticipation and surprise left these days. Greetings from Los Angeles
That's the problem now. Once upon a time it was an exclusive club which is now pedestrian with bloggers and influencers who I seriously doubt can afford what they are viewing or filming.
I definitely agree that there is a huge focus on the distraction around most of theshows these days rather than on the clothes which should be the main reason why everyone is there (to focus on the clothing being presented). Just ask people what they think about a show these days at it becomes evident that most people don’t even care about the clothes they just saw. I think it’s just a systemic problem. Brands realised that being less geeky and pure about fashion + focusing on celebrities and glamour instead will make them more money and they were right. The drawback to it all is that it takes away from the artfulness and craft of fashion. It’s the same reason why brands get away with crazy prices for horrible quality garments. It’s because most customers won’t demand more because they can’t even tell the difference between a well made and badly made garment Just a side note - I do write all my notes on my phone haha, maybe I’m just used to it. I even write whole articles on my phone sometimes 😂
Thank you for the honest opinion without gashing about this item and that. About The Row- I like the Margaux bag look, it suits my style, but the clothes did not swayed me, you can find every element in lots of other brands and not as expensive. This ‘if you know you know’ attitude is playing to exclusivity as a one of the main attraction of this label. Just my vert little couch potato opinion.
I haven’t really looked at the Row because of pricing. I do believe in good quality clothing even for basics however I feel for most of us there’s a diminishing returns aspect to this. At least for me I look into washability/wear and tear. Are these clothes lasting longer than items you can pick up at other brands with similar material content? I mean the cut and fit can make up for the added cost with the row. Something I learned a couple years ago when I did a lot of traveling was to be more in the moment. I used to record and take photos like crazy but I felt like I wasn’t really enjoying either experiences. Now I only pull my phone out to snap a pic or two. You do realize at popular travel places how much people are on their phones. And don’t get me started on the atrocious selfie manners people have. Getting mad at people because you accidentally showed up in their pic or your taking “too long” to look at things you may never visit again. It’s ridiculous.
weren't shows supposed to be for buyers [I mean resellers etc] and journalists and not a public theatre for everybody like an actual Stage show? People who want to buy the product will have access on the website in the end but maybe the general audience is not necessary at the show?. [speaking as an outsider but I do enjoy watching shows] I think the commentators meant this by 'real fashion' ... they stated it stupidly though lol
That's my understanding. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't The Row do shows like that for their buyers? They have such a dedicated customer base that it's hard to imagine they wouldn't.
10:09 I think the review being released 1 week after the show is great.... It allows you to internalize and analyze the collection without rushing into it. Bravo for this and I hope it becomes the norm (again).
im actually a fan of a certain type of elitism in luxury fashion, it’s what luxury is built on. it’s kinda the whole point lol. if everyone can have it or experience it then it’s not really luxury. luxury is about exclusivity, desire and aspirational envy. it’s about wanting to be a part of the in-crowd. now, there’s different types of elitism and exclusivity. there’s the type that says “this is the in-crowd and it’s fixed and static and there’s no way in for anyone who’s not already a part of it”, which is the type i don’t like. then there’s the type that says “this is the in-crowd and there’s a way in, you just have to be clever enough to find it” and “that by finding the way in you’ve proven you’re worthy of being a part of it”, which is the type i appreciate
I did not see the no phones rule as elitist at all, not sure why it even came up. I found it extremely refreshing for a brand to encourage people who are invited to the fashion show/presentation to be actually PRESENT. Fashion month is A LOT to digest even as just a consumer and fashion lover. We can wait for look book photos to come out later especially when we’re seeing a million other brand fashion shows and contents the same day. It’s too much content I feel like I don’t even have the time or space to breathe or digest the garments in the shows!!
You nailed it when you steered the conversation to the digital age demoractising fashion. Anyone that groups all ‘Influencers’, for one eample, into one group (of annoying posers) is cearly threatended. I gave up on Vogue magazine long before anyone had a pager because I was insulted that the first half of the magazine was all advertising, more importantly it was unrelatable. It is easy to sling hate at certain In fluencer cringe etc…but ultimatley this is the most elitist dismissal of a new wellspring of creativity. Frankly I find it almost overwhelming at times - to be exposed to so much exceptional craftsmenship online….and then, there are TH-camrs who exlusivley show their ‘Row Wadrobe’. How can that even be ‘a thing’?
I personally didn't even consider it being elitist. My friend and I just discussed how it was kind of awful to see how many people just filmed it and didn't seem really present for the show instead of really absorbing the wonderful artwork in front of them. We actually really loved that The Row did this. People are going to see the show anyway from official images and videos. The Row might be a bit different case, but from a designer position, I understand wanting the clothes to have full attention. I love the idea they have here, regardless the exclusivity of the brand. I always feel sorry for the people who worked so hard on the show when people in the audience are there just to take some footage to let everyone know that they were there instead of immersing themselves in the experience.
Fashion journalism which is about personal like or dislike is worthless, the value is in describing the clothes, pointing out details of construction, color, fabric, relation to other designers and other eras and other cultures.
depends on what the brand wants how do they want to be represented do they want to control their on narrative. Yes you are excluding more consumers but that’s what exclusivity is . It’s excluding consumers and making it appear to not be feasible but at the same time leaving it up to the consumers to have them eventually think that it is feasible that they can get it and turning that into exclusivity. It’s up to the designer on control their narratives and thats what the row is doing
i mean, the row's decision does decrease the cultish behavior towards influencers and celebrities who promote/attend the show by turning the attention towards the brand itself. and if we're being honest, every high fashion brand has elitist elements because that's kinda the point. i think there is pros and cons to what they did but i feel like putting phones away is a valid ask. i've gone to many concerts where the artists ask the audience to do that because they want us to be in the moment. also, influencers could always share what they wrote on their notepads which would be a cool way to get the conversation going about the show. that's my current take.
Ah yes I definitely agree. High fashion and elitism go hand in hand, it’s the exclusivity that creates the desire - I just specifically used that word because it works as a hook on TH-cam to create a discussion
BLESSING's BRO. SO WELCOME TO PARI💐 VERY CLASSICALE PRESENTATION LIKE IT STRONG POINTS REALLY ENJOYED SEEING THE 60's CRISTALBAL B.collection one of my favorite blast back to the past thank you keep on keeping on.
In the past, there was a barrier to technology which prevented the masses from consuming runway. That barrier no longer exists, so it’s silly for The Row to try and replicate a weakness from bygone eras. Also, from a business pov, this doesn’t sound like the most sustainable decision, especially on the dawn of technological innovation when it comes to consumer image capture devices.
This was such an interesting take on the whole situation since the controversy started ive heard nothing but negative reviews about it, appealing to elitism and such. Nonetheless i wish this concept could also apply for less known brands that are starting or have less money. I wonder if it could work out. I have a small brand and sometimes it frustrates me having to constantly resort to reels or tiktok since not even the publications of photos are relevant to the algorithm. I wish there was a way out of this situation 😢
For me, it's actually kinda crazy that this particular The Row show was the first ever to do the phone banning. Took them long enough. I hope they continue this policy. It's refreshing and it's great.
it's definitely a contrast to other brands' reliance on product placement, celebrity endorsement and hype as a marketing tactic. The Row has an instagram which includes a lot of points of reference, inspiration, including art and architecture- both things that sort of need to be experienced in person to be truly understood. The story is the brand started with the search for the perfect t shirt, also something that needs really to be worn to be understood.
The most elitist thing about the row is the CLOTHES. The thing the row is trying to get people to look at 😂. Most people can’t afford the clothes so why do people get mad that they want people to experience the aura of the runway show?
The Row has great style, but it’s all about basic clothes that are projecting a look of comfortable wealth. If an unknown brand did the same, they couldn’t charge the same or be as successful. The twins play a role. However, the decision not to allow phones is a fantastic one, as you said, it’s on brand, and keeps an air of exclusivity. They have great marketing and great product, and it’s more of a curated brand, than a creative designer brand, which is much needed these days. It has an air of 90s fashion, one of the best periods in fashion.
The twins are definitely a huge factor in the success for sure because it’s not like The Row revolutionised anything in fashion. It’s just nice, well made clothing that’s super expensive. I like the aspect of what they provide being an easy to wear cohesive wardrobe for rich women that allows them to always look nice and not have to overthink things (the quote of theirs that I read in the video perfectly illustrates their target consumer) Luckily for the Olsen twins they have an endless network of contemporaries and friends who can afford what they’re charging.
I think what they’re doing is perfectly on brand. They’re all about quiet luxury and exclusivity. This keeps it that way. They don’t need to do what everyone else does. This brand will be around forever.
Everybody talks about how fashion needs to slow down. I mean does it really make sense to show a collection months before it drops in this fast social media age? That only gives the fast fashion companies the possibilities to produce waste playing catch up and the new designs beeing outdated on instagram at release. Fashion weeks essentially are just fairs for the fashion market. I wouldn't mind products presented on FWs beeing closed to public and releasing the footage at the actual drops. In that sense the row just hit bullseye.
They are a luxury brand, I remember at some point they sold a 100k crocodile leather backpack.. doesn’t it sound elitist from the get go ? It’s okay. Not everything has to be accessible, many of their outfits are overpriced and made for people with more disposable income than they know what to do with
The Olsen's are private. Their whole ethos is privacy. Their first statement crocodile backpack back in 2011 sold out at a cool $39,000! They don't want people to scramble for their vibe. They are Hollywood and they are in a small club. People have to get over it.
i feel like they should make it about experiencing the fashion not exclusivity if you remove people’s ability to capture the moment with phones they have a responsibility to record not even just good, but great footage and share excellent runway photos no phones just for the sake of no phones is a poor idea though
I like the suggestion that there can be a balance between analog and full digital access. Personally I do find it alarming that there is so much focus on the pre-show guest arrivals. I can’t help but feel that it’s just one big circus and that the focus is being taken away from the main event: the designer’s aesthetic message and proposals for the new season. Is anyone else besides me tired of seeing yet another Hermès unboxing from the braggadocio, over caffeinated fashion influencers? It’s becoming hackneyed in my opinion.
Haha some influencers definitely do too much, especially when they pretend like they love brands that pay them for partnerships and send them free gifts yet recommend their audience to part with their hard earned money to buy stuff that they wouldn’t buy with their own money. The focus on pre show guests is actually quite annoying in a logistic sense. It means that most shows are 20-40 minutes late because the show won’t start unless certain VIPs are present and have taken all their pre show pictures. This makes it hard for me to plan during fashion week and set my showroom appointments at the right time
I think it's pretentious. The row basically use existing timeless pieces and price tag them heavily. They post a lot of art ect, a kind of gentlewoman lifestyle. I did not know how I feel about that, because I like the pieces. Banning phones in order to make people observe the details of the collection is pretentious, because there are no details to 60s pill box hats, leather sandals, doc Martens boots, ballerinas, canvas sports shoes, trench coats, cotton shirts, satin and silk slip dresses ect. they are like that for decades and the row does not change that in any way, but make it of good material, thats it.
The Row being elitist doesn't necessarily bother me because if it isn't for me, then it just isn't for me. I'm not passionate about the brand, but I can acknowledge that the clothes are very nicely designed and visually appealing. With that said, we wouldn't care as much if they weren't elitist and I think that's true for most of fashion. The significance of garments is heightened by the price tag and exclusivity of the brand. The Row not allowing cell phones at the show only piques our interest more. It's like not being invited to a party in high school, but you know the prettiest girl in school or coolest people will be there so you get FOMO. Being able to record the show yourself is a relatively new concept in the grand scheme of fashion, we used to rely on professional photographers and journalists to learn about them. This made the fashion industry more exclusive, not only by price but by presence. That meant your average person could care less about fashion week or designer clothing. Out of sight, out of mind. Most of us can't afford to participate in the consumption or lifestyle of these brands, nor do we have the cache to be invited to their events. Now that our favorite influencers can be on live and make IG stories at a luxury show, it feels more inclusive. We've become accustomed to that and in a way entitled to it. The reality is that all luxury houses are elitist. That's how it always has been and always will be. As @yoonytakeuchi said, "-insert luxury brand here- would be nothing if not elitist."
The row and lemaire are for wealthy minimalists who just dont want to buy uniqlo U lol as a maximalist who loves Jean paul Gaultier Undercover Vivienne Westwood etc. I cannot relate
But Phoebe's Celine was exiting, it was covetable, The Row not so (I like their aesthetic but...yeah). So while they occupied the space Phoebe left they did not fill it, at least for me.
If John Galliano did what The Row has done, regarding previous Margiela show, it would've been a cult classic. Like Fw89, and yes they had cameras and videos, but I'm talking about the insane blowjob that show gets for being so different, and how if you aren't that quirky avant garde brand then you are being pretentious (Fw89 is top ten show of all time by the way).
How is banning filming in a show elitist? I don't understand. Elitist in my opinion would be if you're not invited at all and they only invite rich costumers and press.
Especially if you want to take a picture to be reminded of some looks that stood out / would work for X store - but I guess that’s what the showroom is for so it won’t be too much of an issue.
I completely understand wanting to control the brand narrative but at the same time some of the best images I've seen from shows have been from audience members. It feels like a gimmick but it's clear because it's from The Row. Either was it's no sweat off my back as there are plenty of brands who do not feel the need to gatekeep audience access to their product.
This is an interesting point that I’ve seen others make. Because most of us are not customers of The Row anyway (this is even my first video ever talking about the brand), them limiting access to shows didn’t really change our lives much. Maybe if it was a brand that more people resonate with the response would have been different.
It does ruin the elitism and with that the illusion around fashion that is used to sell it to the upper classes, where in the past someone like Margiela would have taken the steps to broaden the class boundaries of fashion you have more youtubers today than ever explaining to people in a very accessible way and sharing the history and analysing it, so the knowledge and culture get passed on to more people. And so nobody gets a free pass to lower the standards of the way collections are made, so they can't sell it as well if it doesn't have an intellectual spin anymore. So elitism I would say brings us back to a time where not only was fashion less accessible but was also held to lower standards intellectually. Which makes it harder to sell to only people with loads of money who can only buy it as a status symbol.
I disagree with you regarding the influencers. I think most of them are flakes who don't have an idea of what they are looking at. There is no analysis, description or critique, they simply brag about the freebies they get and the outfits they can borrow for the day. I don't really know what their purpose is. The exceptions are people like Bliss Foster, Loic Pregent and Haute Le Mode, but the others are just a waste of time. That's my opinion.
I agree with you but then again I guess when I think of influencers I’m more thinking of ones that I feel should be at the shows which is an endless list. Just on TH-cam alone - Tuba Avalon, FashionLover4, Haute Le Mode, Understitch, Rian Phin, Loic Prigent, Bliss Foster, Inkarlcerating, etc (the list goes on) - I’m so detached from the type of influencer / content creator that has nothing to say other than just boasting about what brands have sent them without any useful critique or base level knowledge of fashion history. It’s my bad for not clarifying further.
@@FashionRoadman You should do an episode on this. I think many of us would love to know why there is so much attention given to one type of influencer and not another.
Non-celeb who dress like that give me insidious sadistic, constantly instigating my downfall behind my back vibe. It doesn't help the fact that their personality matches their banality. On my guard and 1000% professional when in those professional setting 😁
It's a runway SHOW.. I think it's rude to have your phones out, just like it would be in a theater. Also, it's their show, they can do what they want. What's the big deal? I don't read it as elitist, I read it as an authentic effort to get the focus on fashion instead of on social media presentation.
personally i don't understand the need to film the entire show when their's a professional doing that already 😅 i understand taking a photo of your favorite look, but filming the entire thing is too much
People are on their phones WAY too much and I think what miffed a lot of people was the fact that they couldn't brag about the fact that they attended this show on their social media platforms but rather were instructed to live without their phone for an hour or so. It's really gross seeing all those phones out in the front rows of all these fashion shows, most of these people in attendance aren't even watching, they're just filming. At that point, why even have a show? The Row banning cell phone usage during the show is refreshing, good for them!!!!
I totally agree with you. I don't even need to write a comment now. So glad somebody else agrees.
Yes! I loved it!❤🎉
As usual, you have such an interesting and insightful take on this topic. As someone who has been a fan of Mary Kate and Ashley for decades and has followed their careers in the fashion industry since their first line at Walmart, them asking people to not take photos or video at the show didn't surprise me. Given how intensely private and camera-shy they are these days (e.g., Ashley carried and birthed a kid without so much of a rumor about her being pregnant), I feel like the way they choose to live their lives is often reflected in the way they run their business.
I also think there's an argument to be made that The Row is just a successful passion project. They're designing for women like themselves; very wealthy women who want elegant, understated, well-crafted pieces that can make up a wardrobe. They don't care about the aspirational shopper because they don't have to. The business is family-owned and operated so they don't have to cater to shareholders and it's evident they're not out to make billions because they already have them. With all that said, I'm still not sure if I would call the brand elitist. Elitism implies an air of superiority that I don't think The Row is trying to project. I think it's just a brand that's inaccessible to most, which means it's truly exclusive and therefore irksome to many lol.
truer words were never spoken
Well thought and stated.
Agreed. Nothing to add.
You've said it all so well🙌🏾
❤
The Row would be nothing if not elitist.
The Row is definitely not "fashion".🤪
@@OlObuffaloit’s not it’s high quality pieces for stylish and not fashionable people( they can have the row too)
I really don’t understand the big discourse with the no photos and “elitism.” You’re not allowed to record at a ballet, weddings, and art shows. (not always of course) and when I was younger there was this rule at dance recitals.
It’s definitely choice of the artist and the fact of they encouraged people to write with pen and paper …. it’s definitely a tactic that keeps people in the present with their own thoughts.
Your point is definitely valid but fashion is always going to be different because the pure intention of fashion is commerce. Luxury fashion is also steeped in elitism and exclusivity from the get go (the unattainable nature of it is actually what creates the desire and draws people to aspire to it). So that’s why anything that creates an even bigger separation between the have and have nots can spark a conversation around elitism.
Ultimately, like you said it’s the choice of the designer and I argued for and against it in the video. Just playing devils advocate and then seeing what everyone else thinks.
@@FashionRoadman omg thank you for your time to respond. Your channel has been my new replacement for netflix!!! 🫶🫶🫶
With current "quiet luxury" trend still ongoing.. social media over exposure gonna make their brand look boring and repetitive.. eventhough they've been doing it way before the trend
I think there's a point of 'overlap' with every trend. Overlap of the trend cycle, and the brand that has also been doing it for a while.
The less pictures online the better for me, Vogue runway is enough, I don’t care for seeing influencers and celebrities in everything.
A point I made in the video & my issue with relying on just Vogue runway images is we miss out on the back details of every look which is actually a huge omission of information when you think about it. That’s why I do enjoy watching the videos that influencers post with the back details present. If I can’t get to the showroom this is the only way I get to see this stuff.
For a journalist like me the more information the better which is why it can be an issue but I also understand most people don’t need to delve into collections that deep neither do they have the time to. This is my job, other people have more important responsibilities like taking care of their kids, their jobs, other interests etc.
@@FashionRoadmanvery valid point
@@FashionRoadmanI understand that issue with relying on Vogue Runway, but I think The Row wanting to dictate the visibility of their product (when and where the collection is seen) will in the long term be beneficial for the industry. If anything, I think the push should be for brands to find new ways to showcase their clothes in more comprehensive ways. Most already do, fashion runway footage usually catches the backs and sides of garments regardless of when the footage is debuted to the larger public. And if the public only has still images available, the encouragement should be for additional “detail” shots of the backs and sides to become commonplace.
Really, I think the issue The Row has is with how people engage with instant gratification. It is truly absurd that establishment fashion media such as Vogue are expected to view, evaluate, and review collections within 1 or 2 hours. It’s even more absurd for there to be an expectation of the larger public to lend credence to any such review given the mechanical turnaround of such thoughts. There is nothing wrong with initial impressions, but these impressions are put forth as definitive, lasting statements. I can’t imagine they should be. There is a bad habit that has formed by way of instant gratification that things must be instantly and permanently judged. It’s like when a musician releases a project and within 20 minutes people are giving long winded takes about how terrible or great the project is. We’ve all seen it. A rapper, for example, will release an album and within minutes people are heralding it “album of the year” or “this is their worst project in 5 years” and so on. This conveyer belt process of instant access and instant judgement leads to instant turnover. It’s the constant scrolling phenomenon. We are trained to move on instantly from one thing to the next and process them all the same. It’s strange too because we aren’t seeing things fundamentally new, which leads to burnout. Algorithms are trained to give us more of what we view. If I enjoy movie clips, I will continue to see more and more movie clips until my entire interaction on any given site is movie clips. The clips may be of different movies, but the fundamental category remains the same. I dont think The Row fits well into this process (I dont think anything fits well into this process but I digress). The Row is extremely high quality, extremely expensive clothing that is meant to last lifetimes. Living is not instant. Life is complex, ever evolving and changing, always providing new stimuli, new experiences, and new perspectives. The things we carry with us throughout life live in their own way through us. We really ought not burn through them at unsustainable speeds. This instant process we’ve become trapped in, in my view, has created an “entitlement” and at the same time an inability to fulfill and insatiable need for more “instants.” I really don’t mean to come off like Ted Kaczynski lol.
Anyway, I think the extreme reaction to the simple request by The Row to not have phones present at their show goes deeper than journalists feeling slighted or the public feeling left out due to whatever entitlement they perceive they deserve. I think The Row made a choice to - as much as they can - remove themselves from the conveyer belt of the instant. As an ideologically slower paced brand, I think this is the right choice. I think more companies should consider ways they can escape this impossible system as well.
I don't think what they're doing is elitist at all; I think its a direct rebuttal to how insanely fast paced EVERYTHING is in the social media age. You said it yourself, you might have a three hour turn around time to get your review of the ENTIRE collection up. The ENTIRE THING! That's insane and unsustainable, and I am willing to bet that it decreases the longevity of what The Row and all artists are doing. I think what they're trying to go for is staying power, where the clothes (or other art forms) aren't immediately forgotten about after being "engaged with" immediately. I think what they're trying to say is sit down, enjoy the clothes/art we made, and be present in that experience. Who really cares if a review of art comes out in three hours or three weeks? That art will still be available either way.
I wouldn't consider myself a fan of The Row's design style, but I'm consistently fascinated by their approach to luxury and branding. What particularly stood out to me among all the unique things they did for this season's collection was how they filmed the runway show using analog cameras. Going off of your point on how the process of developing the film is a suggestion to savor and slowly consume the collection, it's almost as if time has become a luxury in of itself. Indeed, only the ultra wealthy have the leisure time and fortune to be that intimate with the brand's designs.
That is such an interesting and well thought out point. In the current state of the world, you're lucky if you can afford time for leisure, so time is a luxury in this sense and if luxury is what the Row are aiming for, they've nailed it.
I was told the real buyers of Haute Couture, the ones with old money never attend anymore due to all the bloggers and influencers who have taken over the front row with phones.
Probably very true and it wouldn’t surprise me. It all depends on the reason the person goes to the shows. I genuinely don’t know what the huge fuss is about going to shows in general. If I can go to a showroom that’s perfect for me - where I actually get to see the garments up close and ask detailed questions about the collection to staff members of the brand or sometimes the designer themselves.
Yes that’s partly true The Row’s VVIP clients get showroom invites to Paris
Oh I wouldn't doubt that at all. If I had a luxury brand, I wouldn't have phones either.
I've heard that some houses put on two shows🤔 I thought those were the ones the buyers attend?
The range of the meaning of “interesting” always kills me 💀
😂
Love that comment
I’m so glad you said that you don’t get to see the clothes that well at the show. Often the models are galloping past you for less than a second and you get barely a brief impression of the clothes (to the benefit of some designers).
100% that’s why I keep trying to make it known to designers that I don’t mind if they give my show seats to someone else if I can come to the showroom / re-see. That’s the real place I can get into the nitty gritty of the clothes.
This “no phones/pictures” policy reminds me of some museums/artists’ policy on banning taking photos of their artworks. It’s very aligned with The Row’s love for art, too, visible in their stores and socials. Maybe it was as simple as that- a sit back & savour the art type of thing. And nothing about entitlement whatsoever.
I think The Row was hoping to create a sense of authenticity at their show, but WTF is authentic these days? I'm sure there were rounds of conversations in their design studio about how this "ask" might be handled by the public and press and I'm sure they did not care. As is often said, "any publicity is good publicity". But in their defense, when you see clips of runway shows often you just watch the audience trying to get the most instagramable image. I recently saw clips from a show and there was an "influencer" in the front row, chomping hard on gum, as he took pics of the show on his phone. It was the most distracting thing I could imagine witnessing. So in defense of the Row, in this case, it would be easier to focus on the fashion if no cameras were allowed and not those in the peanut gallery trying to enhance their own influence.
This is a great take. Also the Olsen twins whole attitude is very “fuck you.” You are right, they don’t need to conform to a traditional Fashion Week template. They can really do do it their way which a lot of brands/designers can’t say.
I fully support the Row with their initiative.
On the more obvious level, it is well-known that camera distracts people from actually seeing, memorising, experiencing things (this idea about photographs alienating people from the true experience goes at least as far back as Erich Fromm's "to have or to be", it is also reminiscent of Benjamin's "work of art in the age of mechanical reproduction", but there's some nuance, one can also remember Debord or Baudrillard). And yet, if the Olsens stopped here, I believe that talks of elitism or even hypocricy could hold some truth to them. But they have proposed a clever alternative: sketches in fact help people to spot, understandб and memorize elements of design, be it clothing or architecture. This is the reason why sketching was considered a crucial activity when I studied architecture. It is also slower than photography and requires thoughtfullness and contemplation. So this thoughtful gesture by the Row made me love it even more. It is not elitism but respect to the show attendants.
Thank you so much for your videos! I adore haut couture, but am not a part of that world. When I watch your videos, it is like watching documentaries about far away lands that I love learning about. Again, thank you. OH! I lived in Paris. That is a beautiful hotel room! You are very lucky to have it
Glad you enjoyed the video! ❤️
I loved this. Fascinating topic. Regarding the "bought" journalists and magazines - it's such a shame. Seems like so many people are bought or sponsored that it's hard to get any real critical information or know who to trust.
While them discouraging sharing the runway online does seem a bit pretentious as they are essentially saying to the audience that you can't fully appreciate the show if you're focused on sharing the show and not experiencing the show, it does seem like a very clear way to essentially force people to actually view the show (the main purpose of being at a runway show).
It also encourages the idea that there are some things that are simply not accessible to the general public, and that people should be ok with that. With easy access to almost any information through the internet, it's interesting to see a brand go against this, and I think it can encourage fans to look deeper into the brand (beyond a quick google search of the show) as the show may not be readily available.
Very interesting take. I do also agree that not everything has to be open / available to the general public. In fact, sometimes opening everything up to the anyone can be detrimental to a space for many different reasons. It does tend to be the case that for some strange reason people feel like they must be included in everything.
For example, I personally will never be a customer for The Row so I would never expect or care to visit the show or showroom. The Row is one of those brands that I talk about once in a blue moon because there isn’t really much to say season to season compared to other brands that really interest me like Loewe, Thebe Magugu etc.
For a label whose show is probably a comparatively meditative affair compared to most other shows - no flashy set, no celebrity models, no conceptual statements - the decision to not let anyone photograph or film the show really doesn’t lead to missed social media opportunities. At the end of the day it’s back to basics - buyers, press and clients watching the show firsthand. I am definitely not their target market - I’m not rich enough to dress so expensively yet so unassumingly. But for a brand which prioritises wardrobing over seasonality I just don’t find sufficient innovation to justify all the hoohah or to create the sort of loyalty they seem to earn. Seeing them on the rails juxtaposed with Jil Sander and Bottega and Dries, I find the latter labels far more interesting in terms individual pieces, and even finishing. The Row is great at identifying the archetypes of an Everyday wardrobe - the tuxedo blazer, the trench , the penny loader... all in the dusky neutrals so so beloved of every brand from COS to Hermès, so yeah for the woman or man who can afford it by all means buy it, everything works with everything. I just don’t feel there’s enough being tweaked to count as design. And occasionally when they do do something quirky, like crochet, it just seems like an anomaly and honestly a bit of a tired one (who hasn’t done a doily or crochet blanket by now?)
Spot on!
Definitely agree with what you’re saying. It also doesn’t help that due to the quiet luxury trend, many brands like Gucci have entered an era with a more subdued aesthetic. It has created a landscape where you can buy the same clothes across 20+ luxury brands. Fashion at the top level has never lacked individuality to this extent since I’ve been covering it.
As complicated as my feelings about Phoebe Philo are, I loved her quote "The chicest thing is when you don't exist on Google." The Olsen twins, as famous as they are have an almost negligible social media footprint. I think it's because 1) they could afford to do it in a way other designers can't because they are the celebrities other celebrities are excited to see in the wild and know they have a reliable client base regardless and 2) I've heard about the outrage from fashion journalists more than I've heard about almost any other show this season.
I think not capturing the fact that you are in attendance and focusing on the clothes will separate the wheat from the chaff going forward. I think the true luxury is not needing to prove you were there. I'm excited about the lookbook and I've no doubt the Olsens will open up their showroom to people they consider valuable in terms of coverage. I don't think an emphasis on the clothes and not the spectacle (whose kid was modeling, what was the concept, who was front row) will hurt them in the long or short term. Ironically this approach DIDN'T work for Phoebe Philo, partly because she never had the household name cache MKA do and partly because her collection just wasn't that good, but was still in terms of price point, poor website design and lack of alternative outlets, largely inaccessible.
I must be very chic indeed because I do not exist on Google
Wow. I honestly have never been into The Row, and I remember when they first dropped. I think the style, cut, and design of Phoebe is on a much higher level.
Hard agree on all points.
Good for the banning of cell phones at The Row. I'm in my sixties and have attended plenty of fashion shows over the decades although smaller more intimate shows and long before cell phones were invented. I don't get why people can't just be in the moment these days. I find the constant arms extended and cell phones aimed at about everything and everybody very distracting. And I won't even get into selfie sticks.
And yes, there were cameras/film photography back in the day taking footage of some shows, but those were professional photographers documenting, not Loddy, Doddy, and everybody aiming cells phones at everything with glaring blue screens. And there were fashion journalists taking notes on paper with pen. Also if I saw something in a fashion show that I was interested in buying later, then I wrote it down. Plus, actual clients would also get invites to shows and didn't have to be ones who were spending celebrity money.
There were catalogues and not only for high end fashion. And there were sales associates who regularly contacted one when certain items came in of possible interest. There were also trunk shows. One also looked at fashion magazines, especially the September issue of Vogue.
Everyone wasn't in such a revolving door hurry for everything. And there wasn't the overexposure of fashion items like there is now. There's little element of anticipation and surprise left these days.
Greetings from Los Angeles
That's the problem now. Once upon a time it was an exclusive club which is now pedestrian with bloggers and influencers who I seriously doubt can afford what they are viewing or filming.
I definitely agree that there is a huge focus on the distraction around most of theshows these days rather than on the clothes which should be the main reason why everyone is there (to focus on the clothing being presented).
Just ask people what they think about a show these days at it becomes evident that most people don’t even care about the clothes they just saw. I think it’s just a systemic problem. Brands realised that being less geeky and pure about fashion + focusing on celebrities and glamour instead will make them more money and they were right. The drawback to it all is that it takes away from the artfulness and craft of fashion.
It’s the same reason why brands get away with crazy prices for horrible quality garments. It’s because most customers won’t demand more because they can’t even tell the difference between a well made and badly made garment
Just a side note - I do write all my notes on my phone haha, maybe I’m just used to it. I even write whole articles on my phone sometimes 😂
If it was my show, I would do the same
I second that
right?@@OfficialROZWBRAZEL
Thank you for the honest opinion without gashing about this item and that. About The Row- I like the Margaux bag look, it suits my style, but the clothes did not swayed me, you can find every element in lots of other brands and not as expensive. This ‘if you know you know’ attitude is playing to exclusivity as a one of the main attraction of this label. Just my vert little couch potato opinion.
I haven’t really looked at the Row because of pricing. I do believe in good quality clothing even for basics however I feel for most of us there’s a diminishing returns aspect to this. At least for me I look into washability/wear and tear. Are these clothes lasting longer than items you can pick up at other brands with similar material content? I mean the cut and fit can make up for the added cost with the row.
Something I learned a couple years ago when I did a lot of traveling was to be more in the moment. I used to record and take photos like crazy but I felt like I wasn’t really enjoying either experiences. Now I only pull my phone out to snap a pic or two. You do realize at popular travel places how much people are on their phones. And don’t get me started on the atrocious selfie manners people have. Getting mad at people because you accidentally showed up in their pic or your taking “too long” to look at things you may never visit again. It’s ridiculous.
weren't shows supposed to be for buyers [I mean resellers etc] and journalists and not a public theatre for everybody like an actual Stage show? People who want to buy the product will have access on the website in the end but maybe the general audience is not necessary at the show?. [speaking as an outsider but I do enjoy watching shows] I think the commentators meant this by 'real fashion' ... they stated it stupidly though lol
That's my understanding. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't The Row do shows like that for their buyers? They have such a dedicated customer base that it's hard to imagine they wouldn't.
10:09 I think the review being released 1 week after the show is great.... It allows you to internalize and analyze the collection without rushing into it. Bravo for this and I hope it becomes the norm (again).
Quiet Luxury is the new excess. Plus it’s super comfortable with the best fabrics on the planet
im actually a fan of a certain type of elitism in luxury fashion, it’s what luxury is built on. it’s kinda the whole point lol. if everyone can have it or experience it then it’s not really luxury. luxury is about exclusivity, desire and aspirational envy. it’s about wanting to be a part of the in-crowd.
now, there’s different types of elitism and exclusivity. there’s the type that says “this is the in-crowd and it’s fixed and static and there’s no way in for anyone who’s not already a part of it”, which is the type i don’t like. then there’s the type that says “this is the in-crowd and there’s a way in, you just have to be clever enough to find it” and “that by finding the way in you’ve proven you’re worthy of being a part of it”, which is the type i appreciate
I did not see the no phones rule as elitist at all, not sure why it even came up. I found it extremely refreshing for a brand to encourage people who are invited to the fashion show/presentation to be actually PRESENT. Fashion month is A LOT to digest even as just a consumer and fashion lover. We can wait for look book photos to come out later especially when we’re seeing a million other brand fashion shows and contents the same day. It’s too much content I feel like I don’t even have the time or space to breathe or digest the garments in the shows!!
You nailed it when you steered the conversation to the digital age demoractising fashion. Anyone that groups all ‘Influencers’, for one eample, into one group (of annoying posers) is cearly threatended. I gave up on Vogue magazine long before anyone had a pager because I was insulted that the first half of the magazine was all advertising, more importantly it was unrelatable. It is easy to sling hate at certain In fluencer cringe etc…but ultimatley this is the most elitist dismissal of a new wellspring of creativity. Frankly I find it almost overwhelming at times - to be exposed to so much exceptional craftsmenship online….and then, there are TH-camrs who exlusivley show their ‘Row Wadrobe’. How can that even be ‘a thing’?
I personally didn't even consider it being elitist. My friend and I just discussed how it was kind of awful to see how many people just filmed it and didn't seem really present for the show instead of really absorbing the wonderful artwork in front of them. We actually really loved that The Row did this. People are going to see the show anyway from official images and videos. The Row might be a bit different case, but from a designer position, I understand wanting the clothes to have full attention. I love the idea they have here, regardless the exclusivity of the brand. I always feel sorry for the people who worked so hard on the show when people in the audience are there just to take some footage to let everyone know that they were there instead of immersing themselves in the experience.
I agree with the Row for not allowing video and photo taking during the fashion show.
13:35, aaaaaah, very good point...depends on the type of lens you use which is a whole other deeper conversation about "3D" pop lenses.
Fashion journalism which is about personal like or dislike is worthless, the value is in describing the clothes, pointing out details of construction, color, fabric, relation to other designers and other eras and other cultures.
depends on what the brand wants how do they want to be represented do they want to control their on narrative. Yes you are excluding more consumers but that’s what exclusivity is .
It’s excluding consumers and making it appear to not be feasible but at the same time leaving it up to the consumers to have them eventually think that it is feasible that they can get it and turning that into exclusivity.
It’s up to the designer on control their narratives and thats what the row is doing
i mean, the row's decision does decrease the cultish behavior towards influencers and celebrities who promote/attend the show by turning the attention towards the brand itself. and if we're being honest, every high fashion brand has elitist elements because that's kinda the point. i think there is pros and cons to what they did but i feel like putting phones away is a valid ask. i've gone to many concerts where the artists ask the audience to do that because they want us to be in the moment. also, influencers could always share what they wrote on their notepads which would be a cool way to get the conversation going about the show. that's my current take.
Ah yes I definitely agree. High fashion and elitism go hand in hand, it’s the exclusivity that creates the desire - I just specifically used that word because it works as a hook on TH-cam to create a discussion
The Row doesn't need or want "Influencers"!
BLESSING's BRO. SO WELCOME TO PARI💐 VERY CLASSICALE PRESENTATION LIKE IT STRONG POINTS REALLY ENJOYED SEEING THE 60's CRISTALBAL B.collection one of my favorite blast back to the past thank you keep on keeping on.
In the past, there was a barrier to technology which prevented the masses from consuming runway. That barrier no longer exists, so it’s silly for The Row to try and replicate a weakness from bygone eras. Also, from a business pov, this doesn’t sound like the most sustainable decision, especially on the dawn of technological innovation when it comes to consumer image capture devices.
This was such an interesting take on the whole situation since the controversy started ive heard nothing but negative reviews about it, appealing to elitism and such. Nonetheless i wish this concept could also apply for less known brands that are starting or have less money. I wonder if it could work out. I have a small brand and sometimes it frustrates me having to constantly resort to reels or tiktok since not even the publications of photos are relevant to the algorithm. I wish there was a way out of this situation 😢
You’re probably the first TH-camr I have watched who called it Twitter “X”
I would love to ban photos being taken but for start up brands we unfortunately need the exposure
Really enjoyed this video and I'm subscribed to your channel now. And I agree with your points.
For me, it's actually kinda crazy that this particular The Row show was the first ever to do the phone banning. Took them long enough. I hope they continue this policy. It's refreshing and it's great.
it's definitely a contrast to other brands' reliance on product placement, celebrity endorsement and hype as a marketing tactic. The Row has an instagram which includes a lot of points of reference, inspiration, including art and architecture- both things that sort of need to be experienced in person to be truly understood. The story is the brand started with the search for the perfect t shirt, also something that needs really to be worn to be understood.
It's giving Jil Sander.
Very chic.
The most elitist thing about the row is the CLOTHES. The thing the row is trying to get people to look at 😂. Most people can’t afford the clothes so why do people get mad that they want people to experience the aura of the runway show?
its not elitism. its genius. If i were a brand, i would ban phones. Infuencer is a joke of a job lets be real - lets go back to pen and paper.
Always enjoy your content !
The Row has great style, but it’s all about basic clothes that are projecting a look of comfortable wealth. If an unknown brand did the same, they couldn’t charge the same or be as successful. The twins play a role. However, the decision not to allow phones is a fantastic one, as you said, it’s on brand, and keeps an air of exclusivity. They have great marketing and great product, and it’s more of a curated brand, than a creative designer brand, which is much needed these days. It has an air of 90s fashion, one of the best periods in fashion.
The twins are definitely a huge factor in the success for sure because it’s not like The Row revolutionised anything in fashion. It’s just nice, well made clothing that’s super expensive. I like the aspect of what they provide being an easy to wear cohesive wardrobe for rich women that allows them to always look nice and not have to overthink things (the quote of theirs that I read in the video perfectly illustrates their target consumer)
Luckily for the Olsen twins they have an endless network of contemporaries and friends who can afford what they’re charging.
I think what they’re doing is perfectly on brand. They’re all about quiet luxury and exclusivity. This keeps it that way. They don’t need to do what everyone else does. This brand will be around forever.
You are very knowledgeable.
I will subscribe ❤
Everybody talks about how fashion needs to slow down. I mean does it really make sense to show a collection months before it drops in this fast social media age? That only gives the fast fashion companies the possibilities to produce waste playing catch up and the new designs beeing outdated on instagram at release. Fashion weeks essentially are just fairs for the fashion market. I wouldn't mind products presented on FWs beeing closed to public and releasing the footage at the actual drops. In that sense the row just hit bullseye.
They are a luxury brand, I remember at some point they sold a 100k crocodile leather backpack.. doesn’t it sound elitist from the get go ? It’s okay. Not everything has to be accessible, many of their outfits are overpriced and made for people with more disposable income than they know what to do with
The Olsen's are private. Their whole ethos is privacy. Their first statement crocodile backpack back in 2011 sold out at a cool $39,000! They don't want people to scramble for their vibe. They are Hollywood and they are in a small club. People have to get over it.
i feel like they should make it about experiencing the fashion not exclusivity
if you remove people’s ability to capture the moment with phones they have a responsibility to record not even just good, but great footage and share excellent runway photos
no phones just for the sake of no phones is a poor idea though
first video ever seen from you, the algo led me here, subscribed.
New favorite channel
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I like the suggestion that there can be a balance between analog and full digital access. Personally I do find it alarming that there is so much focus on the pre-show guest arrivals. I can’t help but feel that it’s just one big circus and that the focus is being taken away from the main event: the designer’s aesthetic message and proposals for the new season.
Is anyone else besides me tired of seeing yet another Hermès unboxing from the braggadocio, over caffeinated fashion influencers? It’s becoming hackneyed in my opinion.
Haha some influencers definitely do too much, especially when they pretend like they love brands that pay them for partnerships and send them free gifts yet recommend their audience to part with their hard earned money to buy stuff that they wouldn’t buy with their own money.
The focus on pre show guests is actually quite annoying in a logistic sense. It means that most shows are 20-40 minutes late because the show won’t start unless certain VIPs are present and have taken all their pre show pictures. This makes it hard for me to plan during fashion week and set my showroom appointments at the right time
@@FashionRoadman 😊
I think it's pretentious. The row basically use existing timeless pieces and price tag them heavily. They post a lot of art ect, a kind of gentlewoman lifestyle. I did not know how I feel about that, because I like the pieces. Banning phones in order to make people observe the details of the collection is pretentious, because there are no details to 60s pill box hats, leather sandals, doc Martens boots, ballerinas, canvas sports shoes, trench coats, cotton shirts, satin and silk slip dresses ect. they are like that for decades and the row does not change that in any way, but make it of good material, thats it.
The Row being elitist doesn't necessarily bother me because if it isn't for me, then it just isn't for me. I'm not passionate about the brand, but I can acknowledge that the clothes are very nicely designed and visually appealing. With that said, we wouldn't care as much if they weren't elitist and I think that's true for most of fashion. The significance of garments is heightened by the price tag and exclusivity of the brand. The Row not allowing cell phones at the show only piques our interest more. It's like not being invited to a party in high school, but you know the prettiest girl in school or coolest people will be there so you get FOMO.
Being able to record the show yourself is a relatively new concept in the grand scheme of fashion, we used to rely on professional photographers and journalists to learn about them. This made the fashion industry more exclusive, not only by price but by presence. That meant your average person could care less about fashion week or designer clothing. Out of sight, out of mind. Most of us can't afford to participate in the consumption or lifestyle of these brands, nor do we have the cache to be invited to their events. Now that our favorite influencers can be on live and make IG stories at a luxury show, it feels more inclusive. We've become accustomed to that and in a way entitled to it. The reality is that all luxury houses are elitist. That's how it always has been and always will be. As @yoonytakeuchi said, "-insert luxury brand here- would be nothing if not elitist."
Great commentary. And Yes, the clothes are beautiful and yes, it's definitely gatekeepers. 😊
Amazing video. I'm curious. Are there any high street brands that are similar to the row? Asking as a broke naija chic.
These brands aren’t necessarily cheap but they have a sort of similar vibe to The Row and they’re way cheaper - Cos, Arket, Joseph.
COS
The row and lemaire are for wealthy minimalists who just dont want to buy uniqlo U lol as a maximalist who loves Jean paul Gaultier Undercover Vivienne Westwood etc. I cannot relate
Huge price differences in price from the Row v Lemaire
Really thoughtful review.
16:19, a martingale tab for gods sake, lol. The late Leon Talle brought up how people don't know what that is.
I remember when someone had to quick sketch the designs as they came down the runway.
But Phoebe's Celine was exiting, it was covetable, The Row not so (I like their aesthetic but...yeah). So while they occupied the space Phoebe left they did not fill it, at least for me.
If John Galliano did what The Row has done, regarding previous Margiela show, it would've been a cult classic. Like Fw89, and yes they had cameras and videos, but I'm talking about the insane blowjob that show gets for being so different, and how if you aren't that quirky avant garde brand then you are being pretentious (Fw89 is top ten show of all time by the way).
BJ
I need an overproduced potato sack coat, yes, the Row.
i cant read
What men fashion magazines do you recommend?
love this vid u my inspiration
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How is banning filming in a show elitist? I don't understand. Elitist in my opinion would be if you're not invited at all and they only invite rich costumers and press.
I think we feel entitled to content and brands. Not everything is for everyone to see and have
Was this the show where they took phones away and gave everyone pen and pad? Nevermind you covered this. Is the row the brand of Mary Kate and Ashley?
Yes, yes and yes to your questions ❤️
What’s elitist about a pen and a notebook it’s cheaper than a thousand dollars iPhone
Telling people how they should enjoy the show, maybe I have bad hand writing or cant sketch/write fast enough.
THIS DOES NOT DISTRACT YOURSELF POLICY SOUNDS LIKE CONCENTRATING ON WATCHING THE FASHION IN REAL LIFE. ENJOY AND GET THE LOOK AND FEEL!
If you’re a buyer for a shop or retail, it seems silly for The Row to prevent photos or videos
Especially if you want to take a picture to be reminded of some looks that stood out / would work for X store - but I guess that’s what the showroom is for so it won’t be too much of an issue.
I completely understand wanting to control the brand narrative but at the same time some of the best images I've seen from shows have been from audience members.
It feels like a gimmick but it's clear because it's from The Row. Either was it's no sweat off my back as there are plenty of brands who do not feel the need to gatekeep audience access to their product.
This is an interesting point that I’ve seen others make. Because most of us are not customers of The Row anyway (this is even my first video ever talking about the brand), them limiting access to shows didn’t really change our lives much. Maybe if it was a brand that more people resonate with the response would have been different.
Great idea. People can watch the show with their eyes instead of through the phone lens.
It does ruin the elitism and with that the illusion around fashion that is used to sell it to the upper classes, where in the past someone like Margiela would have taken the steps to broaden the class boundaries of fashion you have more youtubers today than ever explaining to people in a very accessible way and sharing the history and analysing it, so the knowledge and culture get passed on to more people. And so nobody gets a free pass to lower the standards of the way collections are made, so they can't sell it as well if it doesn't have an intellectual spin anymore. So elitism I would say brings us back to a time where not only was fashion less accessible but was also held to lower standards intellectually. Which makes it harder to sell to only people with loads of money who can only buy it as a status symbol.
They have never NOT been elitist at their prices. Its not even about the phones.
I disagree with you regarding the influencers. I think most of them are flakes who don't have an idea of what they are looking at. There is no analysis, description or critique, they simply brag about the freebies they get and the outfits they can borrow for the day. I don't really know what their purpose is. The exceptions are people like Bliss Foster, Loic Pregent and Haute Le Mode, but the others are just a waste of time. That's my opinion.
I agree with you but then again I guess when I think of influencers I’m more thinking of ones that I feel should be at the shows which is an endless list. Just on TH-cam alone - Tuba Avalon, FashionLover4, Haute Le Mode, Understitch, Rian Phin, Loic Prigent, Bliss Foster, Inkarlcerating, etc (the list goes on) - I’m so detached from the type of influencer / content creator that has nothing to say other than just boasting about what brands have sent them without any useful critique or base level knowledge of fashion history. It’s my bad for not clarifying further.
@@FashionRoadman You should do an episode on this. I think many of us would love to know why there is so much attention given to one type of influencer and not another.
The Row is a business. money matters.
I think the row was super smart…. A lot of the people backing up elitism were not so smart
Do Ashley and Mary still run the company? It's one of the very few luxury labels I don't consider tacky.
Non-celeb who dress like that give me insidious sadistic, constantly instigating my downfall behind my back vibe. It doesn't help the fact that their personality matches their banality. On my guard and 1000% professional when in those professional setting 😁
I like this convo I want more of these non labels quality not quants product needs to be better
The future is offline.
It always HAS been! Look at the damned prices. I like it and would buy it if I didn’t need food or a roof over my head.
Give it 2 years they'll be putting on big fashion shows 😂😂😂
Idk about you guys but The Row has always been and will always be elitist 😅
i think ashley is the cuter twin. MK still cute too tho. all the clothes are equally fire
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Anybody reading this comments I implore you please go back and watch a Donna Karen show from the 80s or 1999 2000 2001
10:10, interesting, long line medium format and all film cameras.
It's a runway SHOW.. I think it's rude to have your phones out, just like it would be in a theater. Also, it's their show, they can do what they want. What's the big deal? I don't read it as elitist, I read it as an authentic effort to get the focus on fashion instead of on social media presentation.
I think the correct term is discreet, not elitist.
I am so baffled as to when being elite became a bad thing.
personally i don't understand the need to film the entire show when their's a professional doing that already 😅 i understand taking a photo of your favorite look, but filming the entire thing is too much
You guys keep comparing them to Phoebe Philo but not to Donna Karan who they really get it from also Phoebe Fado gets it from Donna Karan