How to Replace Chevy Cobalt Lower Control Arm NO MORE CLUNKS!

[@johncraddock9871]

Why did you skip the bushing replacement in the control arm? Did you do it without a press? I'm worried about starting this and getting stuck.

[@HardwayLearning]

Excellent question!
I bought a fully assembled arm with the bushing in it. Check out description! They're pretty cheap, not worth the hassle pressing the bushing IMO

[@johncraddock9871]

​@@HardwayLearningI should have paid better attention. I bought the bushings cause they were cheap. Second guessing my decision.
Curious what impact driver you are using. My air driver won't budge the 21mm bolt

[@HardwayLearning]

@@johncraddock9871 Milwaukee M18 1/2" Impact. They are spendy, but I haven't run into a single bolt that thing hasn't been able to remove. amzn.to/3Btlxwx

[@brendanbuster]

Aluminum knuckles = race car

[@HardwayLearning]

I don't think anything can make a Chevy Cobalt a racecar

[@brendanbuster]

@@HardwayLearning **Cobalt SS has entered the chat...but then was modified by a suburban teen and melted a hole in the piston**

[@turbo_co27]

@@HardwayLearning only weak point is the rods. Upgrade those and you can make as much power as you want.

[@HardwayLearning]

@@turbo_co27 on the non SS block or the SS block?

[@turbo_co27]

@@HardwayLearning the blocks are the same but the SS’s, Saabs, and 05-06 LE5’s have forged internals. Afaik, you could just buy the bottom end of a Saab 9-3 and bolt it on and have an engine that’ll take 500hp.

[@bvward]

Fair amount of rust... I take it this is not your "summer" car?☺

[@HardwayLearning]

It's the wife's, doesn't get driven much, but MN winters are brutal! Only ~80,000 miles on that hog

[@JacobScherer]

Loose is fast!

[@HardwayLearning]

Loose is scary!