My personnal solution to decrease heat : drill holes in the shell midway top/base avoiding touching the wires inside. The worst enemy of electronics is HEAT.
@@thomastrzepacz9614 , depends the situation/need , top off will produce un-diffused light , i did it in my garage : i like the strong spot light pattern.
Another way to extend the life of the bulb is to connect a 5 uf capacitor in series with the bulb. BigClive did something similar on his channel to turn regular bulbs into "Dubai" bulbs that only use 3 watts without taking the bulb apart.
They use low-efficacy diodes in the first place. And yes they drive them hot :) Bought LM301B boards and an 80% efficient Mean Well driver resulting in 160lm/w efficient light :) Instead of 100lm/w of the cheap LEDs or 210lm of the most efficient filament LEDs from Philips, Osram, and Ledvance.
Man, I put eagerly the like for the work you published. Glad to see such explanatory video. I wanted to make such myself, but since it's present already there is no need to be for yet another one. This is very good investment in case of nature - longer life less trash on dumpsters. Longer life means you don't need to use scaffolding or very complicated ladder in highly reachable places, also it means less electricity consumption. Of course, quality of light is affected a little bit, but this is totally ok when we speak about some rarely used places. Consider drilling holes in plastic cap and base for the heat outflow. If lamp is in the closed or semi-closed fixture, holes are invisible and will decrease temperature.
This is the first lamp that I see (and I've seen dozens of them) that has a resistor easily changeable in the top plate. BTW, most of LED lamps have a current regulator inside; changing a resistor in series with the LED chain will make the regulator change the output voltage in order to keep the same current; I can't see how this could extende the lamp's lifetime.
A change in the resistor, is suppose to change the voltage drop across the load, either way. I supposed the regulator have to be a constant voltage or current regulator. Check out the characteristics of the regulator.
You would be right, if it was a series resistor. The resistor he changed, is a reference resistor. the regulator puts 1.25 volts constant through the resistor, so, divide 1.25 by the value of the resistor to get the approximate current available to the LED's. He went from 65.7 milliamps to 34.7 milliamps, by swapping the 19 Ohm resistor with a 36 Ohm resistor. even though the bulb is dissipating 47.2% less heat, it doesn't lose quite that much in intensity. Running the LED elements at lower current makes them more efficient, allowing more lumens per watt. This is a good "hack".
19Ohm? That's a weird value?? Anyway, you can measure before removing it from circuit to avoid being unable to measure it due to mechanical damage (or if you desolder it, bridging solder). It's not like a capacitor that way. It doesn't even have to be very accurate. You're just gonna use a higher value resistor anyway. Also, you have the soldering iron, so why risk damage to the soldering pads with brute force?
@@valentinsteam I actually bought some cheap pots and took out the resistor on the board and replaced it, drilled a hole in the side of the plastic and mounted the pot there. Dimmable led bulb for 90 cents.
36.4 Ohm? Wooow. That's a pretty low quality resistor! Is that supposed to be 33 or 39 Ohm? I mean, it is within tolerance, and it doesn't really matter...
@@realdevbro447 Silicone sealant. But if is a indoor LED bulb, you can just fit the plastic case to the base firmly; most of times it will fit tightly.
If we talk about reduction of heat; the emission of heat has been taken over by resistance from LEDs. But heat will remain in bulb; in this case too. Hence no heat reduction and no life extension of LEDs as well. Please correct me.
you are right but here the heat pressure is concentrated on the resistor, and the resistor is away from the leds, so directly the leds are not affected by the heat so i think maybe this should work. the heat generated from the resistor has only one place to go and that is in the air surrounding it and little bit through the terminals. this shouldnt be bothering the leds that much i feel. one would only know if these things work by running this bulb on daily basis snd observe the outcome and lifespan.
Reduction of heat can only be achieved by reducing the voltage or current through the entire load, this will either, increase or reduce the power on the load; the result is maximum, or overdrive, quick burn out, or reduced power to load, less power to load, longer life to for the load, (at acceptable brightness).
He changed the ic resistor not series resistor, and ic resistor is control the signal of current gain and it will decrease power consumption and led brightness
I love messing around with these everyday items and modifying them in any way possible. However it's just too obvious what the higher resistor value will do. My personal approach wouldn't ever include making the bulb decrease in intensity. I want to double or triple the output. I want that led squad to burning blindingly, smoking bright, like a tactical weapon! I know, I don't havre to get a step ladder out and fuxc around every time one dies. Lasting interminably is soooo dull and boooring. Let's get some dynamics. Some over the top heat sinks loaded with computer fan motors strapped tightly to our small array, potentially blinding, hopefully dangerously intense. Like an arc welder. If you get a half dozen or so powered up correctly, I mean a half dozen of the small groups, which I call a squad, all lined out, parallel circuited to the nearest 15 Amp breaker, you can have a wild and unnatural, untamed bright party, bordering on the neighbors might call whichever emergency unit they see fit, if they can even find there little black phone after FOOLISHLY staring out their kitchen window,mouths agape, burning a temporary blind spot in their vision apparatus(not really, wrong wavelength, but reasonably causing any pupil in the area to pin out, thus being vision inhibited for a spell, a witness to a veritable luminary volcanoes of sorts, strangely quiet but for the fan motors silent, alarming in its own right and fascinating we can create such a ridiculous spetical with a few power cords, a troop of xfmrs, and some various and sundry collected for the price of manual extraction led lights, never designed for the task they face, yet aurprisingly resilient and much much more powerful during their limited lifespan than any one would imagine. I understand you can, at times, view a bright spot coming from an anonymous source, while peering down at earth from an orbiting craft. Now THATS going to be hard to top, but I'm thinking about it. Nearly harmless fun For an old guy like myself, kind of a hobby, superhacking things, where I can. Keeps me out of trouble mostly. There's plenty of fun to be had, all sorts of mischief , always harmless, hopefully alarming, activities like the homemade hydrogen balloons that lent their accumulated lift to carry aloft one or two oxy-acetylene balloons and a long thin fuse. Ah but that's ,a story for a different time. Have fun- AND DONT BURN THE HOUSE DOWN!!!!😁,,-- ,
My personnal solution to decrease heat : drill holes in the shell midway top/base avoiding touching the wires inside. The worst enemy of electronics is HEAT.
if possible just leave top off....
@@thomastrzepacz9614 , depends the situation/need , top off will produce un-diffused light , i did it in my garage : i like the strong spot light pattern.
true. i do it in neon lamps. they live 4-5 years. heat goes up. transistors fail easly from big heat.
You could put a giant heat sink from a CPU right on the LED as well... Or you could just change the resistor and do it right. 😋
Another way to extend the life of the bulb is to connect a 5 uf capacitor in series with the bulb. BigClive did something similar on his channel to turn regular bulbs into "Dubai" bulbs that only use 3 watts without taking the bulb apart.
They use low-efficacy diodes in the first place. And yes they drive them hot :) Bought LM301B boards and an 80% efficient Mean Well driver resulting in 160lm/w efficient light :) Instead of 100lm/w of the cheap LEDs or 210lm of the most efficient filament LEDs from Philips, Osram, and Ledvance.
Man, I put eagerly the like for the work you published. Glad to see such explanatory video. I wanted to make such myself, but since it's present already there is no need to be for yet another one. This is very good investment in case of nature - longer life less trash on dumpsters. Longer life means you don't need to use scaffolding or very complicated ladder in highly reachable places, also it means less electricity consumption. Of course, quality of light is affected a little bit, but this is totally ok when we speak about some rarely used places. Consider drilling holes in plastic cap and base for the heat outflow. If lamp is in the closed or semi-closed fixture, holes are invisible and will decrease temperature.
This is the first lamp that I see (and I've seen dozens of them) that has a resistor easily changeable in the top plate.
BTW, most of LED lamps have a current regulator inside; changing a resistor in series with the LED chain will make the regulator change the output voltage in order to keep the same current; I can't see how this could extende the lamp's lifetime.
In this particular lamp the current seems to be governed by the IC, and that is set by the 90 ohm resistor.
A change in the resistor, is suppose to change the voltage drop across the load, either way. I supposed the regulator have to be a constant voltage or current regulator. Check out the characteristics of the regulator.
Apparently a higher resistance reduces the current in the current regulator. That's what BigClive showed on his channel.
You would be right, if it was a series resistor. The resistor he changed, is a reference resistor. the regulator puts 1.25 volts constant through the resistor, so, divide 1.25 by the value of the resistor to get the approximate current available to the LED's. He went from 65.7 milliamps to 34.7 milliamps, by swapping the 19 Ohm resistor with a 36 Ohm resistor. even though the bulb is dissipating 47.2% less heat, it doesn't lose quite that much in intensity. Running the LED elements at lower current makes them more efficient, allowing more lumens per watt. This is a good "hack".
19Ohm? That's a weird value?? Anyway, you can measure before removing it from circuit to avoid being unable to measure it due to mechanical damage (or if you desolder it, bridging solder). It's not like a capacitor that way. It doesn't even have to be very accurate. You're just gonna use a higher value resistor anyway. Also, you have the soldering iron, so why risk damage to the soldering pads with brute force?
Isn't it a better idea to use led strips insted of light bulbs ? because leds in led strips are more spread so won't overheat.
Strips require metal surface to be fix, or they accumulate more heat
For small heat reduction (and bright) you can add classic diodes in series
Would putting a small potentiometer in series with the new resistor work to make it variable?
What would you need that for? LED bulbs are plug and play, no potentiometer needed
@@valentinsteam I actually bought some cheap pots and took out the resistor on the board and replaced it, drilled a hole in the side of the plastic and mounted the pot there. Dimmable led bulb for 90 cents.
36.4 Ohm? Wooow. That's a pretty low quality resistor! Is that supposed to be 33 or 39 Ohm? I mean, it is within tolerance, and it doesn't really matter...
Was that a 5 watt resistor?
What type of adhesive is recommended for sealing the bulbs back on? I think I heard you say thermal paste, but I'm not sure.
Definitely not thermal paste.
@@realdevbro447 Silicone sealant.
But if is a indoor LED bulb, you can just fit the plastic case to the base firmly; most of times it will fit tightly.
I think he said thermal glue, meaning a heat resistant glue, but often it screws or clips back in, which is sufficient.
If we talk about reduction of heat; the emission of heat has been taken over by resistance from LEDs. But heat will remain in bulb; in this case too. Hence no heat reduction and no life extension of LEDs as well. Please correct me.
you are right but here the heat pressure is concentrated on the resistor, and the resistor is away from the leds, so directly the leds are not affected by the heat so i think maybe this should work. the heat generated from the resistor has only one place to go and that is in the air surrounding it and little bit through the terminals. this shouldnt be bothering the leds that much i feel. one would only know if these things work by running this bulb on daily basis snd observe the outcome and lifespan.
Reduction of heat can only be achieved by reducing the voltage or current through the entire load, this will either, increase or reduce the power on the load; the result is maximum, or overdrive, quick burn out, or reduced power to load, less power to load, longer life to for the load, (at acceptable brightness).
He changed the ic resistor not series resistor, and ic resistor is control the signal of current gain and it will decrease power consumption and led brightness
@@techbears670 👍😇
he replaced the ic current sensing resistor so the leds get less current so they heat less
Why did you order though hole resistor instead of an SMT?
Do you know how hard it is to solder SMD stuff by hand? Its pretty understandable
He will solder on to the wire stubs left by clipping the old resistor instead of desoldering it.
It would have been so much easier to install a sliding dimmer switch and put a piece of duct tape across the top quarter of the slot.
What is the resistance ohm?
2
90ohms
It varies from bulb to bulb, and from manufacturer to manufacturer.
@@tyjohnston5889 36 Ohms
@@rishanranatunga4851 Thank you!
You get what you pay for. 💯
I love messing around with these everyday items and modifying them in any way possible.
However it's just too obvious what the higher resistor value will do. My personal approach wouldn't ever include making the bulb decrease in intensity. I want to double or triple the output. I want that led squad to burning blindingly, smoking bright, like a tactical weapon!
I know, I don't havre to get a step ladder out and fuxc around every time one dies. Lasting interminably is soooo dull and boooring. Let's get some dynamics. Some over the top heat sinks loaded with computer fan motors strapped tightly to our small array, potentially blinding, hopefully dangerously intense. Like an arc welder.
If you get a half dozen or so powered up correctly, I mean a half dozen of the small groups, which I call a squad, all lined out, parallel circuited to the nearest 15 Amp breaker, you can have a wild and unnatural, untamed bright party, bordering on the neighbors might call whichever emergency unit they see fit, if they can even find there little black phone after FOOLISHLY staring out their kitchen window,mouths agape, burning a temporary blind spot in their vision apparatus(not really, wrong wavelength, but reasonably causing any pupil in the area to pin out, thus being vision inhibited for a spell, a witness to a veritable luminary volcanoes of sorts, strangely quiet but for the fan motors silent, alarming in its own right and fascinating we can create such a ridiculous spetical with a few power cords, a troop of xfmrs, and some various and sundry collected for the price of manual extraction led lights, never designed for the task they face, yet aurprisingly resilient and much much more powerful during their limited lifespan than any one would imagine.
I understand you can, at times, view a bright spot coming from an anonymous source, while peering down at earth from an orbiting craft.
Now THATS going to be hard to top, but I'm thinking about it. Nearly harmless fun For an old guy like myself, kind of a hobby, superhacking things, where I can. Keeps me out of trouble mostly. There's plenty of fun to be had, all sorts of mischief , always harmless, hopefully alarming, activities like the homemade hydrogen balloons that lent their accumulated lift to carry aloft one or two oxy-acetylene balloons and a long thin fuse. Ah but that's ,a story for a different time.
Have fun- AND DONT BURN THE HOUSE DOWN!!!!😁,,--
,
buy a ceramic socket base to hold the bulb
they sit in a toilet roll quite nicely
That's what I would use as well for fixing them. Together with a length of cord and plug, it's my quick test set up.😊
If an LED bulb runs hot enough to need a ceramic socket, it isn't going to last long! anything over 90°C, those LED elements are toast.
Buy in bulk, buy online.