Hi Dan - Good video and advice. Thanks for sharing. I bet you’ll have this running in no time! Definitely a shame how the cost of rear tires and wheels can exceed the value of the tractor, but that’s how it is.
A real good video Dan. One suggestion: I bought a couple of 2 cyls where there was a problem of bees' nest in the air cleaner which definitely affected how it ran. A couple of hours cleaning them out made all the difference.
I like to look the wiring over. I bought a 420 a while back and they had added a toggle switch to the dash and used what appeared to be an old lamp cord coming off the batter and and going to the coil. Only other advice I can offset is looking over axles/block for welds/cracks. And to remember if you buy it, you'll either have to fix or live with it the way that it is. I enjoy the videos.
Another interesting video. Will be watching to see how this turns out. As I mentioned in your shorts video I just picked up a 1942 and a 1950 A. Both engines are free and both hoods are intact and got them for about the value in parts. Will be getting a bore scope soon!
If it's complete its good to go. You can get every part you need. I live within 20 miles of a salvage yard. Ive been working on them since i was 13 years old back in the 80s. Before everyone started to fix them.
I agree and disagree. If it's not complete, how is that different than if you have to replace so much of the tractor it's not even original? My B was that way. At some point it may be better to be a donor for others than to rob a bunch for one. Plus it also becomes a question of cost. Meaning, is the cost to replace most of the tractor worth it? If the tractor is sentimental, go for it.
How do you check and see if like a tractor with a covered flywheel is free?? I’m looking at a 630 and it’s been sitting inside for 10+ years and I’d like to see if it’s free or not.
You can see if you can take the cover off. That'll have a tapered lock flywheel and you may want to see it's condition because they aren't cheap to replace. Back to your question though, you can try and engage the clutch and rock the tractor to see if the pulley spins. If it's engaged and the pulley spins, then the crank is spinning. Lastly, take a screwdriver and try and spin the flywheel near the starter using the starter ring gear on the flywheel. Good luck. I hope to work on a 30 series someday myself.
An update on the model A I bought, I though the engine was stuck so I poared stuff into the head to have it set, and as I was taking the clutch apart, it started spinning. So that problem is solved
Those are for the Power Lift system. Used for cultivators, the rockshaft and such. Just allows all up or all down. Precursor to the Powr-trol system that allowed fine adjustment.
@@DanielFarmChannel so the tractor has to be running to work it. It’s all the way up right now. It’s got 2 plows up front underneath and 3 on the rear behind the tires. I pressed the pedal nothing happened tho. But it was already all the way up.
@@DanielFarmChannelI figured out how to work it all after getting my Manual My B is a 42. Also have a 60 I’ve been working on and a A that is stuck I’m trying to free.
That is the case for a lot of tractors, sadly. Anything that needs saving isn't worth what you have to put into it. I paid just over scrap for this tractor. I'm torn what to do with it and still haven't decided. It would be a great parts tractor, but I like to save them.
Oil sludge clogging the oil pump screen. Worn out con rod bearings Water and sludge in the crankcase and trans/diff cases. Dry rusty clutch roller bearing with scored crankshaft and worn clutch/crank splines. Steering gears and rollamatic not lubricated. Buy a 70+ year old tractor only if it was stored indoors out of the weather. Carburetor and gas tank condition. This tractor needs $3000 in tires and wheels to start with 👎👎
You can get good used tires no problem. Besides tries are $1400. I know due to the fact I just priced them out. I have been rebuilding them since I was 13 years old back in the 80s, before everyone started fixing them.
Hi Dan - Good video and advice. Thanks for sharing. I bet you’ll have this running in no time! Definitely a shame how the cost of rear tires and wheels can exceed the value of the tractor, but that’s how it is.
Lots of $$$ to restore this one. Nice that people are willing to invest in keeping these things around.
A real good video Dan. One suggestion: I bought a couple of 2 cyls where there was a problem of bees' nest in the air cleaner which definitely affected how it ran. A couple of hours cleaning them out made all the difference.
I like to look the wiring over. I bought a 420 a while back and they had added a toggle switch to the dash and used what appeared to be an old lamp cord coming off the batter and and going to the coil. Only other advice I can offset is looking over axles/block for welds/cracks. And to remember if you buy it, you'll either have to fix or live with it the way that it is. I enjoy the videos.
Great advice and thank you for contributing. I'll keep that in mind for myself.
Another interesting video. Will be watching to see how this turns out. As I mentioned in your shorts video I just picked up a 1942 and a 1950 A. Both engines are free and both hoods are intact and got them for about the value in parts. Will be getting a bore scope soon!
If it's complete its good to go. You can get every part you need. I live within 20 miles of a salvage yard. Ive been working on them since i was 13 years old back in the 80s. Before everyone started to fix them.
I agree and disagree. If it's not complete, how is that different than if you have to replace so much of the tractor it's not even original? My B was that way. At some point it may be better to be a donor for others than to rob a bunch for one. Plus it also becomes a question of cost. Meaning, is the cost to replace most of the tractor worth it? If the tractor is sentimental, go for it.
and check clutch driver for crankshaft and driver for splines worn
How do you check and see if like a tractor with a covered flywheel is free?? I’m looking at a 630 and it’s been sitting inside for 10+ years and I’d like to see if it’s free or not.
You can see if you can take the cover off. That'll have a tapered lock flywheel and you may want to see it's condition because they aren't cheap to replace. Back to your question though, you can try and engage the clutch and rock the tractor to see if the pulley spins. If it's engaged and the pulley spins, then the crank is spinning. Lastly, take a screwdriver and try and spin the flywheel near the starter using the starter ring gear on the flywheel. Good luck. I hope to work on a 30 series someday myself.
An update on the model A I bought, I though the engine was stuck so I poared stuff into the head to have it set, and as I was taking the clutch apart, it started spinning. So that problem is solved
just dam cool technology I bought one running paid less than used lawn mower for that price I just had to own it 😅
What do the two pedals on the back to attached to that spring. I just got my b trying to learn.
Those are for the Power Lift system. Used for cultivators, the rockshaft and such. Just allows all up or all down. Precursor to the Powr-trol system that allowed fine adjustment.
@@DanielFarmChannel so the tractor has to be running to work it. It’s all the way up right now. It’s got 2 plows up front underneath and 3 on the rear behind the tires. I pressed the pedal nothing happened tho. But it was already all the way up.
@blakechambers56 cool. If you'd like, send me a picture at DanielFarmChannel@gmail.com. what year is your B?
@@DanielFarmChannelI figured out how to work it all after getting my Manual My B is a 42. Also have a 60 I’ve been working on and a A that is stuck I’m trying to free.
I like old John Dreere tractors 🚜
Nice video Dan. What year and model is this tractor.
It's either a 1943 or 1944. I can't read one of the numbers and the frame rails tells me it's one of those years.
Great info thank you.
Thank you
I hope you didn't give much for this one, it will definitely cost more than it will be worth.
That is the case for a lot of tractors, sadly. Anything that needs saving isn't worth what you have to put into it. I paid just over scrap for this tractor. I'm torn what to do with it and still haven't decided. It would be a great parts tractor, but I like to save them.
Few to no parts are usable from that wreck.
Oil sludge clogging the oil pump screen.
Worn out con rod bearings
Water and sludge in the crankcase and trans/diff cases.
Dry rusty clutch roller bearing with scored crankshaft and worn clutch/crank splines.
Steering gears and rollamatic not lubricated.
Buy a 70+ year old tractor only if it was stored indoors out of the weather.
Carburetor and gas tank condition.
This tractor needs $3000 in tires and wheels to start with 👎👎
You can get good used tires no problem. Besides tries are $1400. I know due to the fact I just priced them out. I have been rebuilding them since I was 13 years old back in the 80s, before everyone started fixing them.