Dude, I'm a pool serviceman with 25 years experience and I have a few thoughts... 1. That salt cell/housing looks like a Zodiac or Aquasphere D-series, a particularly bad cell due to poor quality unions and constant cracking at the cable end due to the reverse pole Pos/neg ports and the gas sensor connection being too close together. 2. There is an unnecesary gas trap when the system would have been better installed as Australian Gov Srandard ABOVE the MPV. Since you installed the new filter from scratch you should have known that and done it correctly. It would have only taken a few extra minutes to do it right. 3. Filter looks like an Emaux, a low grade filter at best, although they do run well for a while at least. I could be wrong of course. Certainly the old filter you pulled out was well past its use-by date, it looked like a John Shenton or maybe an FPI series, gotta be 25 years old. The new filter won't come close to surviving that long. 4. Pump appears to be an Onga LTP model, probably a 750. As well as being a cheap pump with a short lifespan, the distance from the skimmer box means that a pump with a larger reservoir is recommended. 5. The drawline pipe to the pump should be immediate, even a short horizontal is not recommended as it can trap air. You said "It is definitely not ideal to have to drain pools and acid wash them, but in this case it had to be done". Disagree. That pool was not bad at all, certainly not bad enough to require emptying it. In a case like that I would have taken a completely different route. Firstly, 40l liquid chlorine and 10lt HCL acid and then a scrub, then run the system for 24 hour on Recirculation (circ, bypass) to kill every bit of living algae etc in the entire systen including the pipes. YOUR system only kills and removes what is in the pool. In 24 hours the algae would all be dead and the stains on the wall starting to life, the pool would be beautifully blue but very cloudy, and the chlorine would have lost its potency, although the pH will still be quite low which is good.. Then I would have changed the filter setting to Filter model, put in a litre of Ultra Clarifier or a similar p9olymer (NOT FLOC!) and put my robot in the pool with the basket removed so it keeps scrubbing and stirring up the pool. I would ask the occupants to backwash after 12 hours and then 24 hours and restart the robot a few times a day, this method keeps the dirt stirred up so the filter and pump do all the work and you can avoid vacuuming to waste. Yes, I am aware that polymers work better with a high pH but it is better to keep the pH low for a bit longer to move the stains. In 48 hours the low pH would have really made inroads, the rest of the stains will lift in the following days. Once the pool is clean enough to see the bottom I would correct the stabilizer and salt level and add Phosphate Remover if necessary, and then use Sodium Bicarb to neutralize the pH. This method takes a few days to acheive, but it is a lot safer, less abusive to the pool surface, can be down on ANY pool not just concrete, avoids risk to yourself of acid inhalation, skin burns and slipping over (the transition between the shallow and deep is extremely slippery in an empty algae coated pool) and MOST importantly, uses very little water other than a few backwashes. In Australia dumping 50000lt of water is a SIN, and even worse it appears you drained it through the existing waste line, which means it has been illegally tapped into sewer as no storm water drain, septic tank or soakwell could have handled that quantity of water. Be careful. I don't know what the rules are over east (I assume it is over east as it is overcast and Perth is sunny most of the time) but dumping into the sewer comes with big fines from the Water Authority. Anyway, not posting this to be a bitch, just pointing out a few points that could save you a lot of trouble legally and practically. Best of luck with everything.
Sounds like you just want to walk into a job and sell all new equipment. If that works for then good for you. We try to do what’s necessary and not over sell. As far as dumping water. Don’t make an assumption on where it goes. Got 25 years experience. Use some of it. You have also made an assumption that waste line is illegal tapped into the sewer. Do you know the local rules for this job site?? Probably not? Do you know weather it to storm water or not? Probably not. Draining a pebble Crete pool and cleaning properly is no different to the initial acid wash the interior gets before its first fill time. That comes with time and knowledge. You will get there dude. At the end of the day. The client preferred the pool be emptied and started again. Quicker result for them. And we are in the customer service industry. While we could fix it without draining they got what they wanted far quicker. Anyways not posting to bitch. Just to give you some knowledge.
Nice clean 😮
Thanks! 😃
what append to the frogs??
They are dead
They were cane toads.
Move your camera into the horizontal position.
Dude, I'm a pool serviceman with 25 years experience and I have a few thoughts...
1. That salt cell/housing looks like a Zodiac or Aquasphere D-series, a particularly bad cell due to poor quality unions and constant cracking at the cable end due to the reverse pole Pos/neg ports and the gas sensor connection being too close together.
2. There is an unnecesary gas trap when the system would have been better installed as Australian Gov Srandard ABOVE the MPV. Since you installed the new filter from scratch you should have known that and done it correctly. It would have only taken a few extra minutes to do it right.
3. Filter looks like an Emaux, a low grade filter at best, although they do run well for a while at least. I could be wrong of course. Certainly the old filter you pulled out was well past its use-by date, it looked like a John Shenton or maybe an FPI series, gotta be 25 years old. The new filter won't come close to surviving that long.
4. Pump appears to be an Onga LTP model, probably a 750. As well as being a cheap pump with a short lifespan, the distance from the skimmer box means that a pump with a larger reservoir is recommended.
5. The drawline pipe to the pump should be immediate, even a short horizontal is not recommended as it can trap air.
You said "It is definitely not ideal to have to drain pools and acid wash them, but in this case it had to be done". Disagree. That pool was not bad at all, certainly not bad enough to require emptying it. In a case like that I would have taken a completely different route. Firstly, 40l liquid chlorine and 10lt HCL acid and then a scrub, then run the system for 24 hour on Recirculation (circ, bypass) to kill every bit of living algae etc in the entire systen including the pipes. YOUR system only kills and removes what is in the pool. In 24 hours the algae would all be dead and the stains on the wall starting to life, the pool would be beautifully blue but very cloudy, and the chlorine would have lost its potency, although the pH will still be quite low which is good.. Then I would have changed the filter setting to Filter model, put in a litre of Ultra Clarifier or a similar p9olymer (NOT FLOC!) and put my robot in the pool with the basket removed so it keeps scrubbing and stirring up the pool. I would ask the occupants to backwash after 12 hours and then 24 hours and restart the robot a few times a day, this method keeps the dirt stirred up so the filter and pump do all the work and you can avoid vacuuming to waste. Yes, I am aware that polymers work better with a high pH but it is better to keep the pH low for a bit longer to move the stains. In 48 hours the low pH would have really made inroads, the rest of the stains will lift in the following days. Once the pool is clean enough to see the bottom I would correct the stabilizer and salt level and add Phosphate Remover if necessary, and then use Sodium Bicarb to neutralize the pH.
This method takes a few days to acheive, but it is a lot safer, less abusive to the pool surface, can be down on ANY pool not just concrete, avoids risk to yourself of acid inhalation, skin burns and slipping over (the transition between the shallow and deep is extremely slippery in an empty algae coated pool) and MOST importantly, uses very little water other than a few backwashes. In Australia dumping 50000lt of water is a SIN, and even worse it appears you drained it through the existing waste line, which means it has been illegally tapped into sewer as no storm water drain, septic tank or soakwell could have handled that quantity of water. Be careful. I don't know what the rules are over east (I assume it is over east as it is overcast and Perth is sunny most of the time) but dumping into the sewer comes with big fines from the Water Authority.
Anyway, not posting this to be a bitch, just pointing out a few points that could save you a lot of trouble legally and practically. Best of luck with everything.
Sounds like you just want to walk into a job and sell all new equipment. If that works for then good for you. We try to do what’s necessary and not over sell.
As far as dumping water. Don’t make an assumption on where it goes. Got 25 years experience. Use some of it. You have also made an assumption that waste line is illegal tapped into the sewer. Do you know the local rules for this job site?? Probably not? Do you know weather it to storm water or not? Probably not.
Draining a pebble Crete pool and cleaning properly is no different to the initial acid wash the interior gets before its first fill time. That comes with time and knowledge. You will get there dude.
At the end of the day. The client preferred the pool be emptied and started again. Quicker result for them. And we are in the customer service industry. While we could fix it without draining they got what they wanted far quicker.
Anyways not posting to bitch. Just to give you some knowledge.