Super helpful! I do the same protocol with half crimp and saw huge improvements in my climbing from it. When I first started climbing, a bunch of training videos said to avoid full crimp to reduce risk of injury but now my full crimp sucks cause I never do it lol. Glad you made a vid on this! On another note, are there any lower body mobility drills/stretches that you recommend for climbing?
@@evanteeo Hey Evan! Glad you found it helpful 🙏. Totally hear you about lots of folks boldly stating it must be avoided. I don't have any videos for stretching at the moment, but maybe I should think about making one!
@@AlexTighe I think I'm gonna do just 2 weeks for now, because I'm going to Fontainebleau for a month afterwards so I'll prioritise climbing outside and then continue when I come back 💪 Will post updates in the comments 📰
@rbatsenko since you have an outdoor trip coming up, maybe you could just do a testing day a week or two before leaving. then wait until you return to start!
Great video very informative. Would you recommend using this same weekly protocol for the half crimp position? I dont believe I am ready to really train for full crimps. Ive heard a lot about the benefits of max hangs but it can be a bit intimidating with so many training plans out there. Is 10 seconds on a good rule of thumb along with the 3 minute rest.
@@skylerferguson2625 thanks! And absolutely. This protocol was adapted from a PhD study by Eva Lopez (Spanish climber who also made the Transgression/Progression hangboards I use in this video). Her work revolved around the half crimp. I've tweaked and adapted her basic routine over the years trying it in half crimp, open four, three finger drag, and full crimp. Ten second hangs can be a good starting point as you won't be able to lift as heavy a load as you would for say a 5 or 7 second hang. Try avoiding total failure by respecting the buffer zone of using a weight you could theoretically hold for 12-13s. If it's your first time, start slower than you think. You can always increase intensity down the line 😉
alex I noticed that when I train half crimp on hangboard my index finger wants to go straight. I think this is called a chisel grip. Should I try avoid this type of grip in my climbing / training? Thank you!
@@williamwu8575 Hey William! Thanks for chiming in. Great question for sure. My strongest grip is with all 4 fingers in a slightly open hand crimp (not half crimp, but not a three finger drag). The first few cycles of hang boarding I did with maximum weight, I let my fingers grab the hold whatever way felt best. The numbers def went up, but what I didn't realize is that I was actually training something I was already good at. I wouldn't say what you're experiencing is necessarily bad or something that you need to avoid in your climbing. It's natural for you and that's great! However, think about the style of climbing you want to be doing. If your gym/area has lots of flat edges where a half crimp would be helpful (e.g. Moonboard 2016 yellow holds), perhaps you could try forcing it on the hangboard by using less weight or a pulley system to take weight off while your body gets more comfortable. You could also see if keeping your thumb tighter to your index while doing your hangs (not wrapped over the finger though) helps you maintain half crimp form.
@ thank you for relying! I will try pay attention to my grip form and force strict half crimp on hang boards in the future. I do want to get better on edges… thanks again for giving the comprehensive advice =)
IMO you should boast about being a gymnast more. This is sth that differentiates you. Elite gymnast turned elite climber surely knows a thing or 2 about training.
Always appreciate your comments! One you left before was part of the motivation to through this vid together 😉. Hope some folks find it insightful! I do know a few other guys who competed on the NCAA D1 mgym circuit that turned climbers after 'retirement'. But it's definitely a small handful!
@AlexTighe Great to hear that. I try to support small creators, despite the fg yt constantly pushing stuff from say Mag M (that i never watch) in front of my eyes. Algorithm... Hope it catches you. You guys (gymnasts) must have had quite a jump start on rest of standard climbers.
Hey amigos! Have you ever trained the full crimp or seen gains using other training methods? Share your experience below!
Thanks for the video! I’ve never been comfortable in full crimp and do find it limits me in outdoor climbing. I’ll give this a go!
@@gasparmacalutas5689 stoked to hear you find it inspiring to try! start slow on big holds and work your way down. Good luck! 💪
Muy bueno tiooo!! 🎉
@@pablozamora7686 Gracias por los vídeos 😘. Iba a mandártelo este finde pero lo encontraste antes jaja. Tus consejos eran muy buenos 😉🙌
Super helpful! I do the same protocol with half crimp and saw huge improvements in my climbing from it. When I first started climbing, a bunch of training videos said to avoid full crimp to reduce risk of injury but now my full crimp sucks cause I never do it lol. Glad you made a vid on this!
On another note, are there any lower body mobility drills/stretches that you recommend for climbing?
@@evanteeo Hey Evan! Glad you found it helpful 🙏. Totally hear you about lots of folks boldly stating it must be avoided.
I don't have any videos for stretching at the moment, but maybe I should think about making one!
Great one, thanks Alex! Going to try the protocol, as my open and half crimp are really strong, but my full crimp is dragging me down 😅
@@rbatsenko Appreciate it! Start slow and build up over time. Keep us posted with your progress 💪
@@AlexTighe I think I'm gonna do just 2 weeks for now, because I'm going to Fontainebleau for a month afterwards so I'll prioritise climbing outside and then continue when I come back 💪 Will post updates in the comments 📰
@rbatsenko since you have an outdoor trip coming up, maybe you could just do a testing day a week or two before leaving. then wait until you return to start!
Great video very informative. Would you recommend using this same weekly protocol for the half crimp position? I dont believe I am ready to really train for full crimps. Ive heard a lot about the benefits of max hangs but it can be a bit intimidating with so many training plans out there. Is 10 seconds on a good rule of thumb along with the 3 minute rest.
@@skylerferguson2625 thanks! And absolutely. This protocol was adapted from a PhD study by Eva Lopez (Spanish climber who also made the Transgression/Progression hangboards I use in this video). Her work revolved around the half crimp.
I've tweaked and adapted her basic routine over the years trying it in half crimp, open four, three finger drag, and full crimp.
Ten second hangs can be a good starting point as you won't be able to lift as heavy a load as you would for say a 5 or 7 second hang. Try avoiding total failure by respecting the buffer zone of using a weight you could theoretically hold for 12-13s. If it's your first time, start slower than you think. You can always increase intensity down the line 😉
alex I noticed that when I train half crimp on hangboard my index finger wants to go straight. I think this is called a chisel grip. Should I try avoid this type of grip in my climbing / training? Thank you!
@@williamwu8575 Hey William! Thanks for chiming in. Great question for sure.
My strongest grip is with all 4 fingers in a slightly open hand crimp (not half crimp, but not a three finger drag). The first few cycles of hang boarding I did with maximum weight, I let my fingers grab the hold whatever way felt best. The numbers def went up, but what I didn't realize is that I was actually training something I was already good at.
I wouldn't say what you're experiencing is necessarily bad or something that you need to avoid in your climbing. It's natural for you and that's great! However, think about the style of climbing you want to be doing. If your gym/area has lots of flat edges where a half crimp would be helpful (e.g. Moonboard 2016 yellow holds), perhaps you could try forcing it on the hangboard by using less weight or a pulley system to take weight off while your body gets more comfortable. You could also see if keeping your thumb tighter to your index while doing your hangs (not wrapped over the finger though) helps you maintain half crimp form.
@ thank you for relying! I will try pay attention to my grip form and force strict half crimp on hang boards in the future. I do want to get better on edges… thanks again for giving the comprehensive advice =)
@@williamwu8575 For sure! Keep me posted if you think of it. Always happy to answer Q's if I can 🙌
@@AlexTighe I love your videos! Actually ordered a pair of madrock drone 2.0 lv after watching your review. Hopefully they fit!
IMO you should boast about being a gymnast more. This is sth that differentiates you. Elite gymnast turned elite climber surely knows a thing or 2 about training.
Always appreciate your comments! One you left before was part of the motivation to through this vid together 😉. Hope some folks find it insightful!
I do know a few other guys who competed on the NCAA D1 mgym circuit that turned climbers after 'retirement'. But it's definitely a small handful!
@AlexTighe Great to hear that. I try to support small creators, despite the fg yt constantly pushing stuff from say Mag M (that i never watch) in front of my eyes. Algorithm... Hope it catches you. You guys (gymnasts) must have had quite a jump start on rest of standard climbers.
@@middle-agedclimber Can't deny that some aspects of gym helped, but others...like the constant search of perfection...have their pitfalls... 😅