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Alex Tighe
Spain
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2006
I am an ex-elite gymnast from Philadelphia turned avid rock climber currently living in Madrid. Here you can find videos of some of my favorite boulder problems as well as some old gymnastics footage. Click on the links below to follow me on Instagram, Facebook, and my freelance business webpage!!
Climbing this boulder wasn't about the grade...
Climbing grades are a funny thing. Sometimes they're accurate, but often the number attached to your objective doesn't represent the full story. Learning to climb boulders or routes for the challenge (and not the grade) is a powerful lesson in climbing.
I started bouldering in La Pedriza Spain in 2015 and Air 7C has always been one of those nemesis problems managing to slip through my hands on many occasions through the years.
I had a chance to revisit this boulder in October 2024 and decided to make an unfiltered video to remember the experience. Will I finally send this boulder? Watch and find out!
Have questions about bouldering in La Pedriza? Thinking about going rock climbing in France or Spain? Tell us in the comments below!
-- Ways to support this channel 🙏 --
Like my content? Be sure to leave a comment and subscribe to my channel! 😎
Get a sweet 10% discount on climbing tees & apparel from dynamitestarfish.com with the code: alextighe 👕
You can also buy me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/theenglishninja ☕️
-- Featured Clips & Boulders 👇 --
0:00 La Pedriza Bouldering
0:44 Warm Up Climbs
1:38 Meet My Nemesis Boulder
3:09 Remembering the moves
4:33 Climbing Holds
5:44 Send Attempts
9:36 Air 7C
This video is all about what it took to climb my nemesis boulder! Featured climbers are Alex Tighe.
#bouldering #climbing #lapedriza
I started bouldering in La Pedriza Spain in 2015 and Air 7C has always been one of those nemesis problems managing to slip through my hands on many occasions through the years.
I had a chance to revisit this boulder in October 2024 and decided to make an unfiltered video to remember the experience. Will I finally send this boulder? Watch and find out!
Have questions about bouldering in La Pedriza? Thinking about going rock climbing in France or Spain? Tell us in the comments below!
-- Ways to support this channel 🙏 --
Like my content? Be sure to leave a comment and subscribe to my channel! 😎
Get a sweet 10% discount on climbing tees & apparel from dynamitestarfish.com with the code: alextighe 👕
You can also buy me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/theenglishninja ☕️
-- Featured Clips & Boulders 👇 --
0:00 La Pedriza Bouldering
0:44 Warm Up Climbs
1:38 Meet My Nemesis Boulder
3:09 Remembering the moves
4:33 Climbing Holds
5:44 Send Attempts
9:36 Air 7C
This video is all about what it took to climb my nemesis boulder! Featured climbers are Alex Tighe.
#bouldering #climbing #lapedriza
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Great one, thanks Alex! Going to try the protocol, as my open and half crimp are really strong, but my full crimp is dragging me down 😅
@@rbatsenko Appreciate it! Start slow and build up over time. Keep us posted with your progress 💪
@@AlexTighe I think I'm gonna do just 2 weeks for now, because I'm going to Fontainebleau for a month afterwards so I'll prioritise climbing outside and then continue when I come back 💪 Will post updates in the comments 📰
@rbatsenko since you have an outdoor trip coming up, maybe you could just do a testing day a week or two before leaving. then wait until you return to start!
Sick! But why you pronounce it like that? lol
@@MyMusicSosa Which word? The only two words that aren't English are the boulder's name Zarzamora and the village name Albarracín. Guess those two are my Americanized Spanish accent 🙃
@ you confused the r’s lol zarzamora is a soft r and albarracin is a hard one, you flipped them. But no biggie lol
@@MyMusicSosa haha just wait until you hear my pero, perro, caro, carro 🤣...it's a lost cause 🤣
@ 😭 yeah that will get you
Nothing beats situation when you go back after a few years to discover that a key foothold has been broken making your strength gains futile😊
Haha yeah that's happened to me once or twice! Interestingly, I'm 99% sure I was using the most obvious large foothold for the crux move for the majority of the video. But when I came back, my friend told me to give a slightly lower worse foothold a try...and it worked immediately! I ended up doing the problem on the first go from the ground that night :)
Muy bieeen makinaaa !!!
Jeje gracias Jordi! Otro paraíso de granito 😍
Those crimps look sooo sharp! Nice video Alex...
Haha yeah La Pedriza is known for being sharp. And this one is "tame" for the skin in comparison to some problems 🤣
nice vid the 7c looks great! I think I'm heading down to Madrid in a month is pedriza easily accessible from Madrid via public transport?
Yes, there IS a bus (50 mins aprox) to manzanares and the sectors are relatively close to the bus stop (20-30 mins). But other sectors are much further
@herbiejohnson No way!! That's super cool. La Pedriza is absolutely accessible by public transport as are several other climbing areas. I went all over the place in Madrid by bus/train before meeting Lucie and have walked to almost every sector imaginable in La Pedriza from the bus stops. Some are quite a hike like the other commenter mentioned, but nothing crazier than what you two did in Targa. Shoot meet a message on IG and I'll share more tips 🙌
Have you ever had a nemesis boulder? Would love to hear about your experience!
why it's getting easier?
@@lucaa4480 Some of the hand holds have gotten larger over the years allowing for a greater variety of methods to climb the boulder.
How did the stiff drone 2.0s rubber feel on thr Albarracín sandstone? Im going their in march and my pair of drone cs' are on their way iut and im looking to get a replacement either another pair of cs or drone 2s
@@hyau23 Regardless of rock type or area, I evaluate each climb and individual move before selecting which shoe (or shoes) to use. For most technical heel hooks I'm grabbing the Drones, but for things that are a bit more footwork intensive I opt for softer shoes. Since I don't have other Mad Rock models yet, that means my blue Muiras. It was probably a 50/50 split between the shoe usage in Albarracín. When used, the Drones did fine!
I don't think that's sweat, it's just the natural grease of human hands, which reacts chemically with the minerals. This phenomenon also happens to "museum caves", since a lot of people touch the walls and such, and it's not because they're sweaty
@@tovawr Not a geologist but that's an interesting comparison!
I swear every year it gets downgraded. About 7b/7a+ now id say
@@hyau23 yeah I've seen people give it grades all across the spectrum. on one hand it's nice that it's accessable to more people, but on the other hand it's a bummer to see the effects of over traffic.
Donde está Alex? Cabrera? Muy bonito!
@@DiegoLeivaMarketingDigital eso es!!
Super helpful! I do the same protocol with half crimp and saw huge improvements in my climbing from it. When I first started climbing, a bunch of training videos said to avoid full crimp to reduce risk of injury but now my full crimp sucks cause I never do it lol. Glad you made a vid on this! On another note, are there any lower body mobility drills/stretches that you recommend for climbing?
@@evanteeo Hey Evan! Glad you found it helpful 🙏. Totally hear you about lots of folks boldly stating it must be avoided. I don't have any videos for stretching at the moment, but maybe I should think about making one!
zarzaparilla is more polished xd
@@lastshadow123 same piece of rock lol.
By far one of the best reviews of a microphone I've ever seen. You covered every aspect!
@@KryptonicHD really appreciate that!! had them a few months now and like them a lot. they do very well in wind with the wind muff as I found out one day where I did a vlog with 50-70km/h gusts 😂
Thanks for sharing this! I popped my A4 pulley today while climbing and it's a real bummer. Glad to see it's possible to keep climbing and recover in a relatively short amount of time. Similar to you I was feeling strong and didn't feel any pain or soreness in my finger before the injury. My first attempt of the session I heard and felt a small pop in my left ring finger. I didn't feel any pain at first and the pop was quiet enough that I thought maybe I had cracked my finger. I waited 30 minutes to see if any swelling or pain occurred. After 30 minutes I could not put any load on my left hand in half crimp due to the inflammation and pain.
@@OrangutangRockClimbing Shoot! Sorry to hear about your injury today. Sucks for sure. Since it's your ring finger, you might be able to do some climbing with just the front two like I did. Could be a great time to work on slabs! Hope it's a speedy recovery 🙏
@@AlexTighe Thanks! Maybe I'll finally learn to like pockets haha
El desayuno me ha gustado 😊😜🦾💪
Seguramente mejor que esa crema de almendra que compraste por accidente 🤮😂
@AlexTighe que cabron jajajaja aún la tengo ya se me había olvidado
Loved the "where tf is the downclimb" part. My exact 1st climb ever in Font. You are not alone :)
Haha glad someone can relate! I have more than my fair share of stories of getting stuck on top of boulders....... 😅😅
heck yeah that was sick. I struggle with the same thing, getting nervous after you find out you can totally send and just messing up stupid stuff every try lol
Thanks Mark! I usually try to remind myself that those feelings are totally normal and just push through anyways...but some days are better than others 😅
Full video with these classics and more 👉th-cam.com/video/iNDbU8vHMpc/w-d-xo.html
5 +
@@JorgeReparaz todos 🍄
@AlexTighe jajajaj 💪🐗💚🙈
Que guapoo
@@genichi9205 yeahhh 🤘! Habrá que visitarnos en Targasonne (2 horas de Barcelona) si vuelves a España!
What brand are those Jeans! Looks very stretchy 😮
@@williamwu8575 They are by Simond and you can find them at Decathlon (big box store in many EU countries). I think they were around €50-55 last time I checked. I've been buying them for years 🙂
@ went to Decathlon today but they don’t have my size =( will keep an eye on these for sure!
@williamwu8575 bummer! you might be able to order them online and have them shipped to the store? then you could just return them if they don't fit right.
Love!!!❤❤
@@jordilliki habrá que repetir!!
Hey amigos! What did you like most from this video?! 🤔
Kaaah Ching!!!!
@@JoeTigheOnline literally happy campers 😂
alex… how do i get leaner for climbing. i feel like my body/ weight hinders my ability to climb. is it as simple as maintaining a calorie deficit?
@jamescarter-x3p Hey James! I'd recommend reaching out to a sports nutritionist for advice on your specific needs as that is not one of my areas of expertise. Wish I could be more helpful!
Haber si lo haces en el Pas de la casa guapeton😂😊❤
@@JorgeReparaz una noche con la nube de Mordor y ya no hay magnesio 😂😂
@@AlexTighe jajajajaj ya ves... Haces bien , enseña como no hacer DAB en un video de estos , me gusta guapetón
@@JorgeReparazbuena idea papafrita 🍟
So what exactly makes it V13?
@masteroogway1210 It's a test of power endurance and the roof is completely horizontal. There's a move at the start that's kinda fingery before reaching the big flake in the middle. Then the crux move is a pretty big reach so you've got to make it there with enough strength left. Then don't punt the last boulder 😜
How chiselled is that?!?!
@@stevesmith8588 It's about a 3/4 pad or full pad crimp on a 60-70 degree overhang.
@ It looks manufactured. Sad.
About to order these for our basketball league. Since you have it already would you say it would hold up attached to a basketball jersey?. Great review by the way
@@melvinmccoy72 🙏🙏...I think it should be fine unless they get bumped by a flying arm from another player. They work just fine keeping the microphone inside the shirt with the magnet part outside. Not sure how it would sound if your camera is at one end of the court with your player facing the opposite direction at the other end (broken connection between the mic and receiver). I'd try keeping the camera at mid court to see what happens.
@@AlexTighe wouldn't it be better putting the mic on the outside of the shirt?
I've used them a few times with the mic inside so the shirt acts like a wind muff. I wasn't able to hear a difference. Def something to experiment with!
@AlexTighe Thanks
Thanks for the video! I’ve never been comfortable in full crimp and do find it limits me in outdoor climbing. I’ll give this a go!
@@gasparmacalutas5689 stoked to hear you find it inspiring to try! start slow on big holds and work your way down. Good luck! 💪
Legitimately curios question: wouldn’t the next person want the holds tick marked? I’m always personally glad to see tick marks already on the boulder I’m about to try.
@@AlchemyInstruments Great question! And I totally understand that folks have differing opinions on this one 🙏 I usually end up erasing old tick marks anyways because either they weren't placed how I'd use them (i.e. marking for the index finger versus the middle finger) or I just don't like them visually (I prefer tiny dots when possible). So I try to pay that forward to the next person hoping they might enjoy their own process of discovery too.
Oh yes, personaly I like to have the holds painted in colours. That reminds me from the gym...
@@AlexTighe oh ok those details make perfect sense! I definitely have to pay more attention to tick marks in those ways next time. Can definitely be a useful habit that will help with a nice burly send!
the magnet strenght is what i was looking for, i wanted to use it for volleyball games. great review
@@toastinos4205 I think it'd probably be just fine for volleyball! The only moment I could imagine it falling off would be if you dove for the ball and slid across the ground while having the mic too low. You could maybe get around that by wearing it on the necklace and tucking it inside your jersey!
Muy bueno tiooo!! 🎉
@@pablozamora7686 Gracias por los vídeos 😘. Iba a mandártelo este finde pero lo encontraste antes jaja. Tus consejos eran muy buenos 😉🙌
what would you say the range is for these mics? i see 1000ft but seems excessively too good to be true. Thanks
Maybe, just maybe they could do 1000ft....BUT you'd need a perfect line of sight between the microphone and the receiver. Not sure if it's 1000ft, but I am pretty darn far away at 11:41. I actually rode the bike down the mountain three separate times. The noise cancelation feature didn't sound very good at all imo. The second time, Lucie was too far behind me (maybe 4-6 car lengths) so some parts got choppy. Then the third time she stayed close (the clips you see starting at 9:35) and it sounded nice!
@@AlexTighe Thanks!! what great tech packed in such small device! appreciate the quick response
8:00 Use that as an intermediate! Is that the word you're looking for =D
Ah YES! Lucie and I speak together in Spanish so it's hard to switch to English for filming. I always forget vocab 😅
Great video very informative. Would you recommend using this same weekly protocol for the half crimp position? I dont believe I am ready to really train for full crimps. Ive heard a lot about the benefits of max hangs but it can be a bit intimidating with so many training plans out there. Is 10 seconds on a good rule of thumb along with the 3 minute rest.
@@skylerferguson2625 thanks! And absolutely. This protocol was adapted from a PhD study by Eva Lopez (Spanish climber who also made the Transgression/Progression hangboards I use in this video). Her work revolved around the half crimp. I've tweaked and adapted her basic routine over the years trying it in half crimp, open four, three finger drag, and full crimp. Ten second hangs can be a good starting point as you won't be able to lift as heavy a load as you would for say a 5 or 7 second hang. Try avoiding total failure by respecting the buffer zone of using a weight you could theoretically hold for 12-13s. If it's your first time, start slower than you think. You can always increase intensity down the line 😉
IMO you should boast about being a gymnast more. This is sth that differentiates you. Elite gymnast turned elite climber surely knows a thing or 2 about training.
Always appreciate your comments! One you left before was part of the motivation to through this vid together 😉. Hope some folks find it insightful! I do know a few other guys who competed on the NCAA D1 mgym circuit that turned climbers after 'retirement'. But it's definitely a small handful!
@AlexTighe Great to hear that. I try to support small creators, despite the fg yt constantly pushing stuff from say Mag M (that i never watch) in front of my eyes. Algorithm... Hope it catches you. You guys (gymnasts) must have had quite a jump start on rest of standard climbers.
@@middle-agedclimber Can't deny that some aspects of gym helped, but others...like the constant search of perfection...have their pitfalls... 😅
alex I noticed that when I train half crimp on hangboard my index finger wants to go straight. I think this is called a chisel grip. Should I try avoid this type of grip in my climbing / training? Thank you!
@@williamwu8575 Hey William! Thanks for chiming in. Great question for sure. My strongest grip is with all 4 fingers in a slightly open hand crimp (not half crimp, but not a three finger drag). The first few cycles of hang boarding I did with maximum weight, I let my fingers grab the hold whatever way felt best. The numbers def went up, but what I didn't realize is that I was actually training something I was already good at. I wouldn't say what you're experiencing is necessarily bad or something that you need to avoid in your climbing. It's natural for you and that's great! However, think about the style of climbing you want to be doing. If your gym/area has lots of flat edges where a half crimp would be helpful (e.g. Moonboard 2016 yellow holds), perhaps you could try forcing it on the hangboard by using less weight or a pulley system to take weight off while your body gets more comfortable. You could also see if keeping your thumb tighter to your index while doing your hangs (not wrapped over the finger though) helps you maintain half crimp form.
@ thank you for relying! I will try pay attention to my grip form and force strict half crimp on hang boards in the future. I do want to get better on edges… thanks again for giving the comprehensive advice =)
@@williamwu8575 For sure! Keep me posted if you think of it. Always happy to answer Q's if I can 🙌
@@AlexTighe I love your videos! Actually ordered a pair of madrock drone 2.0 lv after watching your review. Hopefully they fit!
Hey amigos! Have you ever trained the full crimp or seen gains using other training methods? Share your experience below!
Just came across your page and review. The joy in which you were able to show your insightful testing was great. NEW subscriber now.
Really appreciate the comment. Hope you found the vid helpful!
@@AlexTighe Absolutely!! Thanks for taking the time to review and share.
Bro what are these comments! So sciency. Cool to see you responding to everyone too! Excellent work, they look fun. Would’ve been nice to have the grades in the description 👍🏻
@@spage0 Haha TH-cam at it's finest?? No idea why these comments got started but it's pretty funny and def beats the "V2 in my gym" fad. I have to look lots of them up 😅. Bindu is 8A+ que Cosmos is 8A.
Jug, jug, jug, chipped hold lol
@@stephenfletcher4117 it's suspiciously perfect 😅😅😅. apparently it was way smaller years ago!
thank you so much for the video!! I need a wireless micro for yoga videos and had the same fear of moving the magnet but I trust its stability now! :)
You're welcome 🤗! I think the Hollyland Lark M2 might be a great option (and budget friendly) for yoga. We've used the microphones quite a bit since this video, even wearing them for an entire day of climbing/hiking without removing. I usually use the receiver with my camera and the USB-C receiver for doing voiceovers directly with my laptop. It's only fallen off once, but we were loading our van with climbing gear and the microphone was physically bumped which we felt right away.
Venga
@@EKdlwoasred 💥💥💥
Nice send🎉
@@CliffHangers89 thanks Connor 🫡🙌
holy hell, amazing
@@JustaConceptOfTime a game of patience for sure! appreciate the comment 🙌
Great send Alex. I hope the Andorra bouldering development keeps treating you!!
@@herbiejohnson Thanks Herbie! Still a few open projects in this area. Maybe next summer it's time to start exploring a few other high alpine choss we've found on maps 😜
Vaya pedazo video Alex, brutal!!🥰🥰 Un abrazo grande!🤜🏻🤛🏻
@@escaladaalavida Gracias Lobo!! Otro sitio que te espera una visita 🐺