I'm doing this job right now. What a monumental PITA. Great job on the video. Saved me a ton of money. Shop wanted $600 per door for this. I am doing three doors.
Monumental PITA is 100% correct - so many little traps and tricks to watch out for. I finished the first door today, and I can see why a shop would charge $600!
Think yourself lucky. I've got all four doors to do. Weirdly on this car the tailgate lock is absolutely fine, whereas that is normally the first to go (when the washer fluid line pops off and dribbles fluid all over the lock module.) If only the side doors were as easy as the tailgate!
Aloha. As a heads up to anyone attempting this project, it can be done without removing the glass and window trim. You can remove the bottom bolt of the window track and push it enough to the side to get the old actuator out and the new one in. It was a tight squeeze but doable and much easier than all the extra steps of the window removal.
You are wrong. Both the window and the guide rail need to be removed. In addition to that, do not remove the lock from the panel, before removing it from the door. The plastic bracket remains attached to the metal panel and so does the lock. Comes out altogether. Video shows it wrong. When putting the door together, mount everything to the panel and then move it into the door. It is much easier, than mounting the lock itself to the door without being attached to the panel.
@@dacat8171 I just do it yesterday and its true you can remove the lock without removing the glass and window trim ,just take out the 2 bolts that have the glass trim and you can squeeze the lock. Be careful with the long metal that supports the door latch because it has only one position , following the back of the piece that supports the long cable of the internal opening (not in the front, i do that and the door lock was failing because it cant open or close propertly due to the metal of the latch being forced and was not mooving freely
@@Ivancp13 Removing the door lock may work the way you have done it, but it will cause damage at least to the lock and possibly break the levers that are attached to the door lock and which you need even if you replace the entire lock. You will have a very difficult time putting everything back into place, if the window trim is not removed. Removing both the window and the window trim takes a half hour, when doing it for the first time, but gives you massive space to deal with the door lock and saves you time when re-assembling it. The window definitely needs to be removed. Also I am not sure, if your car has got a central locking function or not. If there is a central locking system you have to go the extra mile, since the door lock is huge.
Perfect video, was really helpful. Few things, you dont need to remove the glass or the trim, just take out the 2 bolts from the trim and you can squeeze the doorlock pushing aside the trim. Other thing is that the 3 plastic bolts that supports attached the doorlock to the inside panel isnt needed, take it off and put some tape on that 3 black holes cause when it rains the water flows inside the door, so that why has to be well insulated. That piece is always or broken or just a pain in the ass, you can remove it and its no necessary
Thank you very much for posting this very detailed video with all the necessary steps, clearly stated and clearly shown! Much appreciate your effort in making this informative video.... But holy cow, could VW have possibly made this actuator part any more inaccessible or difficult to locate and replace?! This is exactly why I almost always buy and drive cars with MANUAL windows - nothing to break or replace.
It was still a bit of a pain back in the day. I remember doing this on a Mk1 GTI (front door obvs) and a MK2 5-door. Very fiddly and the doors were thinner meaning access was even tighter. Now on my third VW of this era (two Golfs, one Passat) and all three have had window or lock issues. VW dealers must have loved this design choice.
10:11 (Step 16) I found it much easier to pry up the window strip on the inside of the door - there's a series of clips built into the metal of the door that you can work the stripping off by twisting a flat-blade screwdriver in there.
Thanks. Two comments: (1) It is easier to push the plastic pin out of the centre of the glass retainer than using a screw. You can then also push the main plastic bush out and retrieve both from the bottom of the door once the panel is off. (2) The electrical connector to the door lock: the design of the locking mechanism means that often it will not release if there is or has been any tension on the plug. Before trying to unlock the plug, first of all PUSH it firmly ON to the connector, only then can you release the plug by pulling the small catch and then pull the connector off.
I think using a screw prevents the spreader pin from compressing, making it hard to pull out. Still, I'd be wary of pushing the pin through, as all that force is exerted on the small plastic clips that hold the pane holder to the rail...I wonder if that's how the Humble Mechanic broke his: th-cam.com/video/RF4w7uYgc8k/w-d-xo.html
And for the electrical connector, I found a small flat-blade screwdriver got the lock released easily (whereas using my fingers was both futile and painful!) - depending on which side of the vehicle you're working with.
@@thromboid yep wish I had read your comment about breaking the guides if you don't use a screw. I got away with it the first time I replaced the lock. Module but not this time. Window working with only one guide but not wise to break them. It's best to put the glass back with the white plug already installed. It will locate itself onto the slider fairly easily and does not appear to damage the slider in any way.
Hi! I haven't seen before the foam at the steel locking rods (two yellow one at the horizontal, and a grey wrapping one around the vertical rod). Were them a manufacturer fit, or have you put them on those? Did the help on decreasing the noise of the door lock mechanism?
Brilliant video. Very helpful. I just cant figure out on fitting the new lock motor how how the long metal rod connects to it. Theres like a plastic hook and a little hole cant seem to find out where to reconnect it
I only used steps 1 - 14. Too much hassle to change motor and never use rear lock. Made sure door was in "open" non deadlock mode. Looked at the six coloured wires to that connector and cut the cable at the door handle end just cutting those six wires. In effect that door is now non central locking but I just keep it locked now manually and wont get in difficulty if the door decides to deadlock and cant be opened which is also an MOT failure. Thank you for the video - took me a fair few hours to do but got there, referring to your video as I went along.
thanks a lot brother it's was an amazing videos, I was changing the cable lock and I was stuck then finally I got this videos so many thanks for the details and informatives steps from the beginning till the end i appreciate it.
Thanks, a brilliant video. Helped me no end. Wish I'd first read the below email about that electrical connector though! I couldn't get it off, gave up eventually and booked the car in with our mechanic friend instead. lolKeep up the videos!
Very detailed and informative. I got one question, my door is completely stuck, it will not open from the inside or outside, I managed to remove the door panel from the inside only, how can I get the door open to continue to follow your tutorial? Thank you very much
I have had this issue in the past. It's a difficult fix. If you can remove the interior panel with the door shut, unlocking and opening the door is going to require you to drill a hole through the door skin where it is usually covered by the panel in line with the release lever on your door lock mech. I used my new replacement to figure the exact spot. If you use a screwdriver through this hole to move the release lever, your door will open and you're ready to follow the video and replace the mech. Worked for me
When you install everything again, be careful with the pin that holds the window, I put the 2 together at the same time, tapping carefully until it clicked into place, because I tried putting the large one first and then the second and it fell to the bottom of the window. the door either of the 2
good video, however I reckon that I would leave the cable plugged in to lock until I can see it, but the most important one is this-DO NOT remove the bolt that secures the door handle, unscrew it about 10-12 turns, enough to free the handle
You prolly dont care but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Kristian Julian i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Actually, the replacement of the door lock is not that challenging, once you understand that all parts remain attached to the panel and the panel with all parts mounted including the door lock are to be removed in one step from the door. Key to success is to remove the window and the window guide rail completely. Some remarks: • no need to remove the speaker, • all wires remain connected • do NOT remove the rivets from the door lock bracket @ 7:05, since it is almost impossible to get them fixed. You need the bracket for an easy installation of the door lock. • window opener motor at 2:55 stays where it is Therefore, I am not that happy anymore with your video, since it does not show the replacement in the correct - easy - way.
@@dacat8171 I have put the job on hold. I was hoping it would be a quickie and I need to use the car in the next couple of days. Those plastic rivets are already broken so doing something with those is going to make it a longer job too.
@@chaos.corner 👍🏾 In order to get the bracket attached to the metal panel, I used zip ties. It worked out well. But the lock is a massive chunk. It feels wobbly. The only job the bracket needs to fulfill is to carry the lock out (when removing) and in, when installing the new one, without unplugging the electric wire. FYI I was not sure which door lock I needed and I therefore removed the door lock on the first day, purchased a new lock and put everything together on several days. There must have been at least one week when the window was secured only by duct tape. Duct tape also works in rain, I discovered. That repair was one of those moments when I thought >>why bother with that 25 yrs old car? ... why not get something new?
Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the two bolts that hold the mechanism onto the door frame are actually 8mm 12 point allen screws. . . that tool worked for me. I have no 12 point torx drivers.
Hello buddy thanks for your video. I have I basically 2 problems in my Skoda Laura co passenger side lock. 1st is it does not shows on door open light on dashboard when the door is opened. 2nd is when I press unlock button for the door the co passenger side door does not unlocks. it stays locked. after repeated pressing on the door's lock & unlock button the lock finally unlocks. can you please let me know where exactly the issue can be
Судя по тому , что я сейчас увидел , я всё таки делаю вывод , что среди инженеров фольцвагена , натуралов не было от слова совсем !!! Как можно было так всё усложнить ??? До этого я думал , что передние двери тяжело разобрать и собрать ни чего не испортив , но я ещё ни разу не разбирал задние ... Это что- то , нормальный человек такое не изобретёт ! 😅😂😂😂
Sooo many plastic things that can break, I'd rather renew the front suspension using only combination wrenches.. Good video thou. Some day I'll fix my door lock with this and the other video. Thanks.
That's a lot to do, and I'm sure the car will have extra rattles and stuff. I think I'll pass on this one and just let my car get more and more ghetto.
Te salut. Am schimbat recent o incuietoare la o usa spate , un golf 4 - 2003, totul a decurs ok. Inainte de asta, atunci cand incuiam masina din telecomanda imi confirma inchiderea cu acel blink al semnalizarilor dar si ulterior, incuiat fiind, daca apasam din telecomanda pe butonul inchidere mai facea iarasi blink din semnalizari. Acum dupa ce am schimbat acea incuietoare, imi face blink cand inchid dar nu si ulterior cand apas iarasi butonul inchis. Ce sa fie ? Mentionez ca in rest totul functioneaza in regula pe inchidere.
Normally, careless & cheap engineering lead to bad products. But One has to spend a lot of resources to engineer something this level of stupid. German logic
yes they spend alot of money and engineering and pass the bill onto the car buyer and then when theres trouble ,stupidity rises its ugly head ,theres no reason for all this if the unit was built simper and worked better look at the Toyota stuff like this way handier and hardly breakes down from my perspective
Muy buen video ,muy útil Pero mas allá de eso,sería lindo preguntarle al que diseño esta puerta en que estaba pensando cuando lo hizo,cual es el motivo de hacer algo tan rebuscado
Dewald Venter Use a welding wire about 15cm long. Make sure one end has a hook. As you pull the door handle slide the wire in the gap. You want to feel for a hook usually on the left but could be right side and pull. This will help unlock the door. I did this on my jammed door which wouldn’t open from the inside or outside.
@@Servicetutorials You cant get at the lower screwson the inside panel for starters if the door wont open have a look and see ,dewald is correct, if the door refuses to open
@@johnnoonan5802 You can if you remove the rear seat base and then use a right angle torx key of the correct length. Tilt seat base forward and unclip it and you should just have enough space to wiggle a torx bit in there. You might find one in a cycling tool kit as they use torx bolts on Shimano chain ring bolts.
1 complaint only, please an explanation how that plug on window lifter .when you put it back how do you squease together to lock onto window onto lifter .
Salut, Mircea! Daca ti-a ramas blocata, inseamna ca ai probleme cu broasca. Incearca totusi sa o deschizi si sa o inchizi din cheie si sa o lovesti usor in dreptul broastei, poate se deblocheaza. Altfel va trebui sa demontezi fata de usa si sa o deblochezi manual care e mult mai complicat.
I thought front door where the easiest? Am i wrong? Im doing back left door and now the front left is playing up. Id rather sell the car than keep changing these bloody locks. Preferred my ford mondeo was alot easier lol
Great Video, but Ive seen others where you did not have to remove the glass. In my case its a stuck actuator so if I can free it and get it to unlock Ill disconnect the central locking and continue using the door manually. I would have preferred your explanation with the video rather than the cheesy music.
Bro bro bro... so that's right that's right,your vid its the best,for me a +10 perfect explained!Loved! but... This is a super shit system oh my god!! You can see this to much easy,but other person it goes crazy haajahahhahaahaa awesome for change this part you need a Master dude,I'm belive ball,seriously. Now,I'm making a Vw T5 with the same problem,and its very big,its my first time,and your vid I will serve me for oriantation...omg Looks,bmw E36, Extracting door panel. Go up the window. Dissamble the door lock. End. Other models,no comments😂😂 Ok dude thanks for your time,best wishes.
One thing to try if the door won't open (from inside or outside): pop the cover off next to the exterior door handle, then use a pick or screwdriver to pop out the handle insert, and then try unlocking from the inside. If the handle cable doesn't have enough slack, the mechanism won't reset when released and will fail to unlatch.
@@MrMats0n Haha. It is called a "TRIPLE SQUARE" bit, That is the technical term, if you were to go to amazon or a hardware store and buy the set. If you said "spine bit" nobody would know what to buy.
Wow, the VW engineers really went all out to design this task to be as difficult as possible.
Probably 😁
guys from seat improved upon their design and soldered the little part of the window frame to the metal door cover, making it even less accesible.
I'm doing this job right now. What a monumental PITA. Great job on the video. Saved me a ton of money. Shop wanted $600 per door for this. I am doing three doors.
Monumental PITA is 100% correct - so many little traps and tricks to watch out for. I finished the first door today, and I can see why a shop would charge $600!
Think yourself lucky. I've got all four doors to do. Weirdly on this car the tailgate lock is absolutely fine, whereas that is normally the first to go (when the washer fluid line pops off and dribbles fluid all over the lock module.) If only the side doors were as easy as the tailgate!
Aloha. As a heads up to anyone attempting this project, it can be done without removing the glass and window trim. You can remove the bottom bolt of the window track and push it enough to the side to get the old actuator out and the new one in. It was a tight squeeze but doable and much easier than all the extra steps of the window removal.
Thank you for the info! 👍
You are wrong. Both the window and the guide rail need to be removed.
In addition to that, do not remove the lock from the panel, before removing it from the door. The plastic bracket remains attached to the metal panel and so does the lock. Comes out altogether. Video shows it wrong.
When putting the door together, mount everything to the panel and then move it into the door. It is much easier, than mounting the lock itself to the door without being attached to the panel.
@@Servicetutorials
@@dacat8171 I just do it yesterday and its true you can remove the lock without removing the glass and window trim ,just take out the 2 bolts that have the glass trim and you can squeeze the lock. Be careful with the long metal that supports the door latch because it has only one position , following the back of the piece that supports the long cable of the internal opening (not in the front, i do that and the door lock was failing because it cant open or close propertly due to the metal of the latch being forced and was not mooving freely
@@Ivancp13
Removing the door lock may work the way you have done it, but it will cause damage at least to the lock and possibly break the levers that are attached to the door lock and which you need even if you replace the entire lock.
You will have a very difficult time putting everything back into place, if the window trim is not removed. Removing both the window and the window trim takes a half hour, when doing it for the first time, but gives you massive space to deal with the door lock and saves you time when re-assembling it.
The window definitely needs to be removed.
Also I am not sure, if your car has got a central locking function or not. If there is a central locking system you have to go the extra mile, since the door lock is huge.
These videos without all the banter and heavy breathing are the BEST! THANKS!
Thank you for the feedback!
Perfect video, was really helpful. Few things, you dont need to remove the glass or the trim, just take out the 2 bolts from the trim and you can squeeze the doorlock pushing aside the trim. Other thing is that the 3 plastic bolts that supports attached the doorlock to the inside panel isnt needed, take it off and put some tape on that 3 black holes cause when it rains the water flows inside the door, so that why has to be well insulated. That piece is always or broken or just a pain in the ass, you can remove it and its no necessary
Thank you for the info!
Thank you very much for posting this very detailed video with all the necessary steps, clearly stated and clearly shown! Much appreciate your effort in making this informative video.... But holy cow, could VW have possibly made this actuator part any more inaccessible or difficult to locate and replace?! This is exactly why I almost always buy and drive cars with MANUAL windows - nothing to break or replace.
It was still a bit of a pain back in the day. I remember doing this on a Mk1 GTI (front door obvs) and a MK2 5-door. Very fiddly and the doors were thinner meaning access was even tighter. Now on my third VW of this era (two Golfs, one Passat) and all three have had window or lock issues. VW dealers must have loved this design choice.
10:11 (Step 16) I found it much easier to pry up the window strip on the inside of the door - there's a series of clips built into the metal of the door that you can work the stripping off by twisting a flat-blade screwdriver in there.
correct.Work from the B style to the rear.
That was the best plan I've seen on the web , brilliantly executed just like a boss well done.
Thank you!
Thanks. Saved me tons of time trying to figure it out on my own.
@@stevemueller4914 thank you too for the feedback!
Thanks a lot. I was able to change my door lock thanks to your video
Thank you for the feedback!
Thanks. Two comments: (1) It is easier to push the plastic pin out of the centre of the glass retainer than using a screw. You can then also push the main plastic bush out and retrieve both from the bottom of the door once the panel is off. (2) The electrical connector to the door lock: the design of the locking mechanism means that often it will not release if there is or has been any tension on the plug. Before trying to unlock the plug, first of all PUSH it firmly ON to the connector, only then can you release the plug by pulling the small catch and then pull the connector off.
I think using a screw prevents the spreader pin from compressing, making it hard to pull out. Still, I'd be wary of pushing the pin through, as all that force is exerted on the small plastic clips that hold the pane holder to the rail...I wonder if that's how the Humble Mechanic broke his:
th-cam.com/video/RF4w7uYgc8k/w-d-xo.html
And for the electrical connector, I found a small flat-blade screwdriver got the lock released easily (whereas using my fingers was both futile and painful!) - depending on which side of the vehicle you're working with.
Yes, I struggled with those VW connectors until I realised you have to push the connector IN while you release the retaining clip.
@@thromboid yep wish I had read your comment about breaking the guides if you don't use a screw. I got away with it the first time I replaced the lock. Module but not this time. Window working with only one guide but not wise to break them.
It's best to put the glass back with the white plug already installed. It will locate itself onto the slider fairly easily and does not appear to damage the slider in any way.
Hi!
I haven't seen before the foam at the steel locking rods (two yellow one at the horizontal, and a grey wrapping one around the vertical rod). Were them a manufacturer fit, or have you put them on those? Did the help on decreasing the noise of the door lock mechanism?
Very good Demonstration! Thank you.I try it by my self😮.
Thank you for the feedback!
Brilliant video. Very helpful. I just cant figure out on fitting the new lock motor how how the long metal rod connects to it. Theres like a plastic hook and a little hole cant seem to find out where to reconnect it
Merci infiniment !!!!!!! grâce a vous je l'ai changé moi même le 12 août dernier !!!!!! MERCI !!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@davidmarchal9509 👍
Thanks for making this detailed video! It helped a lot!!!!
Thank you too for the feedback!
I only used steps 1 - 14. Too much hassle to change motor and never use rear lock. Made sure door was in "open" non deadlock mode. Looked at the six coloured wires to that connector and cut the cable at the door handle end just cutting those six wires. In effect that door is now non central locking but I just keep it locked now manually and wont get in difficulty if the door decides to deadlock and cant be opened which is also an MOT failure. Thank you for the video - took me a fair few hours to do but got there, referring to your video as I went along.
thanks a lot brother it's was an amazing videos, I was changing the cable lock and I was stuck then finally I got this videos so many thanks for the details and informatives steps from the beginning till the end i appreciate it.
thx for the good video. A very good help, my centrale doorlock was broken.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks, a brilliant video. Helped me no end. Wish I'd first read the below email about that electrical connector though! I couldn't get it off, gave up eventually and booked the car in with our mechanic friend instead. lolKeep up the videos!
WoW its like stripping a hydron collider
Cheers. 👍🏾
Exactly what I need.
✌🏾
Glad to help!
Can u make another video putting back together? It’s just hard? Amazing music, addictive. Thanks in advance
Watch in reverse.
Das bisher beste Erklärvideo
Good and very detailed video. Helped me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback!
Very detailed and informative.
I got one question, my door is completely stuck, it will not open from the inside or outside, I managed to remove the door panel from the inside only, how can I get the door open to continue to follow your tutorial?
Thank you very much
I have had this issue in the past. It's a difficult fix. If you can remove the interior panel with the door shut, unlocking and opening the door is going to require you to drill a hole through the door skin where it is usually covered by the panel in line with the release lever on your door lock mech. I used my new replacement to figure the exact spot. If you use a screwdriver through this hole to move the release lever, your door will open and you're ready to follow the video and replace the mech. Worked for me
Thanks for the vid, the expansion plug was the key :-)
Hi, I need some help, how I reconnect that hard wire/ rod that connects to the lock ?
Best video I’ve seen, thank you 👍🏼
Saved me 😂
Thank you for watching!
When you install everything again, be careful with the pin that holds the window, I put the 2 together at the same time, tapping carefully until it clicked into place, because I tried putting the large one first and then the second and it fell to the bottom of the window. the door either of the 2
Thank you for the info!
good video, however I reckon that I would leave the cable plugged in to lock until I can see it, but the most important one is this-DO NOT remove the bolt that secures the door handle, unscrew it about 10-12 turns, enough to free the handle
You prolly dont care but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Kristian Julian i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Kristian Julian it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Franco Mitchell happy to help :D
Great tutorial, could you tell me would it be same procedure for a 2005 golf 5 1.9 TDI. Also rear door wont open.
Thanks
Hi! You can see the video tutorial here: th-cam.com/video/AqFyirbnB2g/w-d-xo.html
Actually, the replacement of the door lock is not that challenging, once you understand that all parts remain attached to the panel and the panel with all parts mounted including the door lock are to be removed in one step from the door.
Key to success is to remove the window and the window guide rail completely.
Some remarks:
• no need to remove the speaker,
• all wires remain connected
• do NOT remove the rivets from the door lock bracket @ 7:05, since it is almost impossible to get them fixed. You need the bracket for an easy installation of the door lock.
• window opener motor at 2:55 stays where it is
Therefore, I am not that happy anymore with your video, since it does not show the replacement in the correct - easy - way.
I don't know about easy. But I'm going to do it your way.
Could you explain how to remove the window and the guide rail before the panel is off? (Edit: I think I worked it out)
@@chaos.corner
Did you succeed?
@@dacat8171 I have put the job on hold. I was hoping it would be a quickie and I need to use the car in the next couple of days. Those plastic rivets are already broken so doing something with those is going to make it a longer job too.
@@chaos.corner
👍🏾
In order to get the bracket attached to the metal panel, I used zip ties. It worked out well. But the lock is a massive chunk. It feels wobbly.
The only job the bracket needs to fulfill is to carry the lock out (when removing) and in, when installing the new one, without unplugging the electric wire.
FYI I was not sure which door lock I needed and I therefore removed the door lock on the first day, purchased a new lock and put everything together on several days. There must have been at least one week when the window was secured only by duct tape. Duct tape also works in rain, I discovered.
That repair was one of those moments when I thought >>why bother with that 25 yrs old car? ... why not get something new?
Yeah given the amount of effort this door is staying locked or unlocked form the inside….
Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the two bolts that hold the mechanism onto the door frame are actually 8mm 12 point allen screws. . . that tool worked for me. I have no 12 point torx drivers.
It's a Torx if it's 6 sided, these are called Tripple-Square bits and have 12 points as you had mentioned and yes, this is the M8 (8mm) sized bit
Some places are calling it triple squared, and some call it a 12 point spline. It's not a Torx though.
Very very good.
Thank you for your feedback!
Hello buddy thanks for your video. I have I basically 2 problems in my Skoda Laura co passenger side lock. 1st is it does not shows on door open light on dashboard when the door is opened. 2nd is when I press unlock button for the door the co passenger side door does not unlocks. it stays locked. after repeated pressing on the door's lock & unlock button the lock finally unlocks.
can you please let me know where exactly the issue can be
Судя по тому , что я сейчас увидел , я всё таки делаю вывод , что среди инженеров фольцвагена , натуралов не было от слова совсем !!! Как можно было так всё усложнить ??? До этого я думал , что передние двери тяжело разобрать и собрать ни чего не испортив , но я ещё ни разу не разбирал задние ... Это что- то , нормальный человек такое не изобретёт ! 😅😂😂😂
The step 16, it is better to push the moulding from inside the door with the fingers
Gracias no podía desarmar mi coche gracias a tu vídeo ya lo desarme suerte
Great info! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Sooo many plastic things that can break, I'd rather renew the front suspension using only combination wrenches.. Good video thou. Some day I'll fix my door lock with this and the other video. Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback!
That's a lot to do, and I'm sure the car will have extra rattles and stuff. I think I'll pass on this one and just let my car get more and more ghetto.
Thanks 😃
Thanks dude
Thank you too for watching!
Thanks so much, your video was the best reference while the complete process.
Thank you for the feedback!
Muito bom e util o seu video! bem explicado e sem enrolação! parabéns por ter ajudado um monte de pessoas !
Obrigado!
I'd rather buy another door from the yard and paint it instead of changing that module
:)))
Alin Ciovica for real Lol and the worse is when you quote a customer and the window repair is more than the car is worth
You know you could lose glass or something
My thought too
Same here. Only vw.
Oh dear... I've replaced both front window regulators before, but this looks harder.
Te salut.
Am schimbat recent o incuietoare la o usa spate , un golf 4 - 2003, totul a decurs ok.
Inainte de asta, atunci cand incuiam masina din telecomanda imi confirma inchiderea cu acel blink al semnalizarilor dar si ulterior, incuiat fiind, daca apasam din telecomanda pe butonul inchidere mai facea iarasi blink din semnalizari.
Acum dupa ce am schimbat acea incuietoare, imi face blink cand inchid dar nu si ulterior cand apas iarasi butonul inchis. Ce sa fie ?
Mentionez ca in rest totul functioneaza in regula pe inchidere.
Absolutely excellent. Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Normally, careless & cheap engineering lead to bad products. But One has to spend a lot of resources to engineer something this level of stupid.
German logic
Yeah, I wuz going to fix the lock actuator, but, I think I'll just reach over and manually unlock/lock it, now...
@@nplus1watches35 So true...for the time and hassle you could probably do 10,000 manual locks. Seriously.
yes they spend alot of money and engineering and pass the bill onto the car buyer and then when theres trouble ,stupidity rises its ugly head ,theres no reason for all this if the unit was built simper and worked better look at the Toyota stuff like this way handier and hardly breakes down from my perspective
Wovon zum Teufel redest du
Muy buen video ,muy útil Pero mas allá de eso,sería lindo preguntarle al que diseño esta puerta en que estaba pensando cuando lo hizo,cual es el motivo de hacer algo tan rebuscado
solaudiocar has hecho esto ya?
jaja y esa tontería que es, rebuscado????
El abridor y cerrador de la puerta está dañado. A mi 03 Jetta le pasò eso. Me tomò un fin de semana arreglarlo.
Gracias compadre muy buen video felicidades
Jaime Soberanes Gracias!
do you have an video for an 2006 vw jetta it on the back door replace rear door lock module
Unfortunately, no
Very nice, thanks!
Good Video, thanks. Terrible music though
Thank you for your feedback!
Good video very helpful. the music is terrible though. Why they can't make these easier to replace baffles me.
how do you get to the mechanism when the door is closed and refuses to open
Hi! You just have to remove the inner door panel.
Dewald Venter Use a welding wire about 15cm long. Make sure one end has a hook. As you pull the door handle slide the wire in the gap. You want to feel for a hook usually on the left but could be right side and pull. This will help unlock the door. I did this on my jammed door which wouldn’t open from the inside or outside.
@@Servicetutorials You cant get at the lower screwson the inside panel for starters if the door wont open have a look and see ,dewald is correct, if the door refuses to open
@@johnnoonan5802 You can if you remove the rear seat base and then use a right angle torx key of the correct length. Tilt seat base forward and unclip it and you should just have enough space to wiggle a torx bit in there. You might find one in a cycling tool kit as they use torx bolts on Shimano chain ring bolts.
Per il montaggio del tutto? C'è un tutorial? Grazie
No, sorry.
1 complaint only, please an explanation how that plug on window lifter .when you put it back how do you squease together to lock onto window onto lifter .
How did you do it, Clive? I'm faced with this problem in the coming days and have been stressing about it since I popped it out.
Salut! Am si eu o usa de pasat b5, blocata. Dreapta spate ( nu mai pot sa o deschid deloc) cum sa o deschid macar si ce so fi stricat? Ms
Salut, Mircea! Daca ti-a ramas blocata, inseamna ca ai probleme cu broasca. Incearca totusi sa o deschizi si sa o inchizi din cheie si sa o lovesti usor in dreptul broastei, poate se deblocheaza. Altfel va trebui sa demontezi fata de usa si sa o deblochezi manual care e mult mai complicat.
@@Servicetutorials Multumesc mult!!
14:23 Note that that fucking bolt it's hidden under the door seal, on a Golf MK4.
Great help thx.
Thank you for watching!
Buen video y bien explicado!!!
so you pick the easiest door. You should have done the drivers door. There is more going on there.
No, the driver’s door it is more easy to remove it.
I thought front door where the easiest? Am i wrong? Im doing back left door and now the front left is playing up. Id rather sell the car than keep changing these bloody locks. Preferred my ford mondeo was alot easier lol
Great Video, but Ive seen others where you did not have to remove the glass. In my case its a stuck actuator so if I can free it and get it to unlock Ill disconnect the central locking and continue using the door manually. I would have preferred your explanation with the video rather than the cheesy music.
exelente sos un crak abrazo mariano dr argentina !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks !!!
hamza lag Thank you for watching!
Super
THanks very well demonstrated
Thank you for the feedback!
omg, thank you. especially 9:14
Looks great too bad there's that annoying music
Bro bro bro... so that's right that's right,your vid its the best,for me a +10 perfect explained!Loved!
but...
This is a super shit system oh my god!!
You can see this to much easy,but other person it goes crazy haajahahhahaahaa awesome for change this part you need a Master dude,I'm belive ball,seriously.
Now,I'm making a Vw T5 with the same problem,and its very big,its my first time,and your vid I will serve me for oriantation...omg
Looks,bmw E36,
Extracting door panel.
Go up the window.
Dissamble the door lock.
End.
Other models,no comments😂😂
Ok dude thanks for your time,best wishes.
Stept 16 comment:It can be taken out by hand and u dont bent it like u did ;)
Good video but too many steps to accomplish this task. But I am experienced in doing this sort of thing.
The music was utterly annoying
Melhor vidio do mundo...
Muchas gracias!
Ok..but i can't open the door so i can not unscrew the 2 screws from the bottom of the door..what to do in this scenario..? Please respond
Hi Stefan! You can try open it by hitting the door in the same spot where the door lock module is.
You can reach the bolts even with the door closed, not easy but they are accessible.
VoeViking Ok Thanks for advice.
One thing to try if the door won't open (from inside or outside): pop the cover off next to the exterior door handle, then use a pick or screwdriver to pop out the handle insert, and then try unlocking from the inside. If the handle cable doesn't have enough slack, the mechanism won't reset when released and will fail to unlatch.
@@thromboid i never fixed that door :)) and i totaled the car 3 months ago..but your answear might help others leeell
OF course VW uses some super odd/hard to find "TRIPLE SQUARE SET" for the door lock removal. . . smh why why why
Trey Camp same thoughts. I thought Germans were practical
Its a normal spine bit though..
@@MrMats0n ? Spine bit?? Do you mean TORX? this is not a torx, it's a Triple Square, which is not the same as torx. It's a special driver bit set.
@@MrMats0n Haha. It is called a "TRIPLE SQUARE" bit, That is the technical term, if you were to go to amazon or a hardware store and buy the set. If you said "spine bit" nobody would know what to buy.
XZN is the other name.
how to replaced back door the one always put bags the big one not that one if a person entered
Jimmy Sindane For wich model?
8:38 fail ... plate with lock its easier and not break plastic
How to remove door lock module when the door are locked?
se esforzaron para hacerlo bien complicado...
3:04 not do this a lock with plate
Change the title because it's misleading. It's how to remove, NOT REPLACE the door lock module. Understand the difference?
Perfect
Multumim!
Thank you!
This video would of been better with you talking your way through it, instead of having to put up with the crap music.
Thank you for your feedback! 👍
Una chapuza de mano de obra. El cableado se saca con las grapas, no tirando a lo burro y rompiendo la cinta de sujeccion
danke danke danke!
I used Braun Screwdiver and not Philips ... burn me!
Gracias
Por favor que musica es ? me gusta mucho
Bloody racket - How can anyone concentrate of that noise
What song is this?
its not a song its just NOISE
Lo desarmastes mal la cerradura sale con todo y la tapa el plástico lo.dañastes te falta técnica
👍👌🙌
👍
fuck this music blows more than justin beiber in a gay bar
but i cant open the door