Hello Paul, I would strongly advise to Put the pistons on and fit the barrel with the drive side crankcase off and then rotate to make sure that you have clearance between the conrod and the barrel. You should be fine as A65 have 75mm bore and they are oversquare but it wouldn't hurt to check it. I did the same when Billet conrods were put into my 1973 Triumph 500 T100R Daytona, I know it's a bit of an issue with 650 Triumphs as they have a 71mm bore and a longish stroke and they can foul the barrel as can BSA A10's. Solution with the Triumph650 is to Dremel the cylinder till you have clearance. A better way is to fit a Morgo 750 and then no issue as they are 75mm bore, I hope the info was of some use to you. Cheers.
Thanks Paul for a motivating video shot a few weeks ago . My RE has been sitting almost 7 years , I’ve ordered a Hickcocks carburetor Stage One ( Amal ) set up . I’m close to get it running now .
I will be opening up my A65 engine as there is a knock I am not happy abut. Your videos are great, and will help me a lot. Question: To eliminate the end float I guess you put shims on the timing side, where do you get these shims? Any recommended shop for that? Thanks, TG
Sorry, but shimming the crank is a full engine strip, as the shims fit between the drive side main bearing inner race and the crank - there is no easy way.
Going by my experience with swapping pistons and going from alloy to forged steel conrods in Royal Enfield Bullet engines where there were no problems, I am not worried about it and I doubt there is much, if any difference tbh.
Love these A65 videos. Shame their lack of reliability creates so much content. What is the cause of the original timing side bush failure? Given the explosive nature of this engine and it now sports the R&R rods where you not tempted to fit the Ford tractor bush or contemplate the SRM conversion. Does fitting an inline modern oil filter help preserve the original bush?
Thanks, I think poor servicing and too few oil changes are the main culprits. The existing bush was original and too good to disturb, otherwise a Ford tractor bush might have been considered. Adding a filter can certainly only help.
Hi Paul, I may have missed something but, did you use the original crank and timing side bush in the new cases, in other words did you remove the timing side bush and fit it in the replacement cases
Hi Charlie, no, the bush in the replacement cases was very good and of standard size and the journal on the crank from the blown up engine was less worn than on the donor engine's crank. The crank from the blown up engine survived intact and hasn't been reground and the fit in the timing side bush was very good.
We had many A 65 A 50 engines with excessive end float. Would cause a knock at idle. Poor quality control in the mid to late sixtys. Porous inlet manifolds on 650 s etc
G'day Paul, bloody well done end couldn't get any tighter if it was it wouldn't run when hot, question, on one of your earlier videos you mentioned using a type of long reach (electro) sparkplug, what brand and what are they called please, those conrods look the part are they much more costly than standard ones, looking forward to the ongoing rebuild, cheers mate, Neil 🤠. PS out on a ride with mates tomorrow can't wait.😊
Hi Neil, those plugs were the protruded electrofe type, they come in short and long reach but the centre electrode sticks out further. Example in NGK speak would be where a B8ES would be an ordinary long reach, a BP8ES would be it's long nosed equivalent. The conrods were reasonably priced and came from Burton Bike Bits, similar more expensive ones can be had from SRM.
I thought it would in the past, but found out on a previous A65 build which had been a little tight on end float that a gasket compound didn't help as I had hoped, so it doesn't make any noticeable difference in my experience at least.
love these A65 videos, helps us guys out who are trying to learn a thing or two to keep our old bikes alive
that was a real cliffhanger, phew! endfloat in spec and
you have to be chuffed with todays efforts paul, the 250
included.👍
Thank you!
Hello Paul, I would strongly advise to Put the pistons on and fit the barrel with the drive side crankcase off and then rotate to make sure that you have clearance between the conrod and the barrel.
You should be fine as A65 have 75mm bore and they are oversquare but it wouldn't hurt to check it. I did the same when Billet conrods were put into my 1973 Triumph 500 T100R Daytona,
I know it's a bit of an issue with 650 Triumphs as they have a 71mm bore and a longish stroke and they can foul the barrel as can BSA A10's.
Solution with the Triumph650 is to Dremel the cylinder till you have clearance. A better way is to fit a Morgo 750 and then no issue as they are 75mm bore,
I hope the info was of some use to you. Cheers.
Thanks for that, and a very good point, but at present I have no pistons and the barrels need reboring and painting before they can be used.
Funny, in the USA, we call them C clamps. But yes, I can see they look like a G.
Thank you I always enjoy the A65 content
G'day mate, in Australia we call them some time G and you will also hear C, a rose 🌹 by any name is still a rose, cheers mate, keep safe, Neil 🤠.
Thanks Paul for a motivating video shot a few weeks ago . My RE has been sitting almost 7 years , I’ve ordered a Hickcocks carburetor Stage One ( Amal ) set up . I’m close to get it running now .
hi Paul all looking very nice
Coming along nicely.
I will be opening up my A65 engine as there is a knock I am not happy abut. Your videos are great, and will help me a lot. Question: To eliminate the end float I guess you put shims on the timing side, where do you get these shims? Any recommended shop for that? Thanks, TG
Sorry, but shimming the crank is a full engine strip, as the shims fit between the drive side main bearing inner race and the crank - there is no easy way.
Thanks Paul.
Got to regain your sanity after that mammoth session getting some sense out of that Albion 5 speed.
How do the new conrods compare weight wise to the originals? Does the crank need to be balanced?
Going by my experience with swapping pistons and going from alloy to forged steel conrods in Royal Enfield Bullet engines where there were no problems, I am not worried about it and I doubt there is much, if any difference tbh.
Love these A65 videos. Shame their lack of reliability creates so much content.
What is the cause of the original timing side bush failure? Given the explosive nature of this engine and it now sports the R&R rods where you not tempted to fit the Ford tractor bush or contemplate the SRM conversion. Does fitting an inline modern oil filter help preserve the original bush?
Thanks, I think poor servicing and too few oil changes are the main culprits. The existing bush was original and too good to disturb, otherwise a Ford tractor bush might have been considered. Adding a filter can certainly only help.
Hi Paul, I may have missed something but, did you use the original crank and timing side bush in the new cases, in other words did you remove the timing side bush and fit it in the replacement cases
Hi Charlie, no, the bush in the replacement cases was very good and of standard size and the journal on the crank from the blown up engine was less worn than on the donor engine's crank. The crank from the blown up engine survived intact and hasn't been reground and the fit in the timing side bush was very good.
We had many A 65 A 50 engines with excessive end float. Would cause a knock at idle. Poor quality control in the mid to late sixtys. Porous inlet manifolds on 650 s etc
G'day Paul, bloody well done end couldn't get any tighter if it was it wouldn't run when hot, question, on one of your earlier videos you mentioned using a type of long reach (electro) sparkplug, what brand and what are they called please, those conrods look the part are they much more costly than standard ones, looking forward to the ongoing rebuild, cheers mate, Neil 🤠. PS out on a ride with mates tomorrow can't wait.😊
Hi Neil, those plugs were the protruded electrofe type, they come in short and long reach but the centre electrode sticks out further. Example in NGK speak would be where a B8ES would be an ordinary long reach, a BP8ES would be it's long nosed equivalent. The conrods were reasonably priced and came from Burton Bike Bits, similar more expensive ones can be had from SRM.
@@paulhenshaw4514 hi mate thanks for you reply, all way their with help, have a great day, cheers, Neil 🤠.
Will the gasket sealant increase the .0015 clearance at all? Had to ask but probably a dumb question!
I thought it would in the past, but found out on a previous A65 build which had been a little tight on end float that a gasket compound didn't help as I had hoped, so it doesn't make any noticeable difference in my experience at least.
Thank you for that!