You saved me a good bit of money and hassle lol, thank you for doing this video, i have a 94 accord that i thought would be simple to change the rotors on, i thought wrong, but i got it done, thanks to you
Hmm... I hated that design when I found out about this 8 years ago, so 5 years ago I found a slide in and out conversion kit that lets your rotors slide out just as easy as the rear and you can easily replace the hub or bearings. It's totally worth it! Piece of cake every time you do the job. Nothing's compressed r needing spell tools r ard banging anything in or out. Now I'm loving the car a whole lot more.
For a DIYer you made an awesome video. You did not finish about the broken stud story but here is what I do every time. Due to the inner bearing race sticking to the hub, I simply buy a new hub/studs assy so no cracked, stripped or broken stud issue. Press the new bearing on new hub & dont waste time cutting. The hub/studs assy is not expensive, no worries about safety of family in vehicle, no worries of full disassembly or wasted time. In my experience. Nice safety briefing & Eric referral.
Great job on this video. you were nothing if not thorough. Like you said at the end of the video, you're not a professional mechanic... But the problem with most of these videos is that the person who made it assumes it's being watched by professional mechanics, so they skip over a lot of details which usually turn out to make or break the project. Thanks a bunch.
Great instructional video! I had never heard of this type of rotor configuration either. If I ever run into it (I'm an amateur who does almost all of his own automotive maintenance and repair work), your video will help me immensely!
Its been a while since I removed mine, but I don't remember any play in that bearing. Usually when you have play in a bearing like that, its a sign that it is wearing and may eventually fail or seize. I am always paranoid with critical parts like wheel bearing, so I stay on the safe side and replace them with new ones. My justification is that the money I'm saving by doing it myself offsets the cost of the parts. Good luck!
I agree with hitman6191, for Honda owners in areas that see more rust and corrosion, where roads are salted in winter or near coastlines, this is a frustrating issue. I've seen videos from drier parts of the US where the hub, rotor and bearing assembly easily separates from the steering knuckle the way it should. I wrote Honda regional but the manager's reply was that this was not a design shortcoming. To replace only the rotor, there is a hub removal tool that separates the inboard and outboard parts of the inner race (sealed bearing-not meant to be separated), the outboard piece remains on the hub, as what happened in this video. The outboard inner race half is returned to its place in the bearing when the hub is placed on the wheel spindle and the spindle nut is tightened and torqued. A new bearing can be installed on the hub this way, without the use of a press. Bolt the new bearing to the knuckle then install hub onto spindle and tighten the spindle nut, this essentially "presses" the bearing onto the hub.
Doing same job now can’t get break rotor bolts out because socket would job off. Socket was tight on the bolts but would still jump even when pushing hard while trying to drive them off
At the time I couldn't find a video explaining how to use a slide hammer. I've found that experienced people such as yourself don't have any reason to post a how-to video so it ends up being amatuers like myself that try to figure it out and share our experience in a video. The problem being that my method may not be the most effective or time/cost efficient solution as the experienced mechanics.
If its tight ....most are. You are unknowingly damaging the bearing. It will take some time but it will have an early demise. High impact like that is rarely good. imho
They do have them as one assembly but, of course, they cost more than just a bearing. Not every outlet carries them, however, but if you search, you can find one. You can also buy a separate new hub and assemble a new bearing onto it in advance but the hub is approximately $100 or more each.
@@bonpun5066 thanks. For my Personal Record's and to Spread the word. Are the Rotors much smaller? You have to use Acura CL 2.3L 4cyl Wheel Hubs, Wheel Bearings & Rotors? Right. Do you change the Caliper's too though? Wagons Rotors are 11" I think. I heard you can do floating rotor setup too from prelude. But I don't know which is best for long term parts support. Since 4cyl Hub already hard to find, can't buy new. Accord Wagon I found out is similar to Accord Ex Sedan. But exact match is 6 Cyl Accord sedan/Coupe. Accord Wagons get some 11" front Rotor's Upgrade. Same as the 6cyl Sedan/Coupe. So just adds bit to the confusion.
@@1XSTEALTHTWINTURBOX1 Yes just get the Acura CL 2.3 hub, wheel bearings, and rotor. Your caliper and pads are interchangeable so you can keep the ones you have on your Accord
@@bonpun5066 very cool man if you ever know how to get these parts non salvage let us know so I could tell other people in the future as well. Basically have to track down that car in a junkyard.
If you jack up your car to get that tire off of the ground, grab the tire with one hand at 12:00 position, grab tire with other hand at 6:00 position. Push in at 12 & pull out at 6, then reverse push pull action every second. Rock the tire with some real force. If the tire seems to feel loose, then the bearing is bad. If you are not sure, try the other tire that you think is in good condition. A bad bearing will allow more tire wear on both the inner & outer tread pattern like low tire pressure.
buy long hub bolts for back side screw in and use hammer or air chisel ,and hit in circular motion til loosen ,then remove bolts and seperate,you do not have to remove knuckle.
After getting it apart and cleaning the rust off where the wheel bearing goes into the steering knuckle put some grease there and the next time it will be easier to remove. The grease will keep it from rusting,,,,,,,,,,,
These are the worse brake jobs. I hated it so much when I gotta do my dads 96 Accord. Pain in the freak'n a$$. Broke 2 of the bolts on the back of the spindle due to rust. Had to go through 2 different spindles from the junk yard. That was 1 yr ago. Now his bearing is going...Wish me luck, again!
another solution since your replacing the bearings anyways and you don't have the tools just buy the hub and bearings kit, the bearings is already pressed in the hub and sometimes you can get it thru ebay with free shipping
Wow. Wish I saw this video before I started the job. I have no access to a press. What a stupid set up. I have never encountered something like this that I couldn't just figure out on my own. How dumb. So frustrating haha.
what would be cool is that someone would just sell the wheel hub and bearing as one set. when you pop off the rotor you just replace. No need to further break down needed.
That design goes all the way back to 1991 and up you don't have to remove the whole knuckle assembly off of the car just undo the CV shaft nut, undo the lower ball joint nut break the lower ball joint free from the knuckle pull the knuckle assembly away then you can have a machinist or you can buy the remover (Looks like a steel hockey puck with a pilot on it). Insert the remover into the bearing and bang it out with a mallet.
The method that I explained in the video involves putting the whole knuckle on a press. So obviously to do that, you'll need to remove it from the vehicle. I've heard of these slide hammers that people use to hammer and pop it out while it is still mounted to the vehicle (although I've had no experience with that method). I recommend this method because you can replace the wheel bearings while you are taking it all apart.
Thinking could have prayed bp blaster where the back is and between the shield and rotor then take a block of wood and place it on the sides and hit with a hammer to get it unstuck without using a press now with the bearings yes probably a socket or press
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
I can tell you are not an experienced Mechanic but you did a really good job explaining this nice Job
You saved me a good bit of money and hassle lol, thank you for doing this video, i have a 94 accord that i thought would be simple to change the rotors on, i thought wrong, but i got it done, thanks to you
Hmm... I hated that design when I found out about this 8 years ago, so 5 years ago I found a slide in and out conversion kit that lets your rotors slide out just as easy as the rear and you can easily replace the hub or bearings. It's totally worth it! Piece of cake every time you do the job. Nothing's compressed r needing spell tools r ard banging anything in or out. Now I'm loving the car a whole lot more.
For a DIYer you made an awesome video. You did not finish about the broken stud story but here is what I do every time. Due to the inner bearing race sticking to the hub, I simply buy a new hub/studs assy so no cracked, stripped or broken stud issue. Press the new bearing on new hub & dont waste time cutting. The hub/studs assy is not expensive, no worries about safety of family in vehicle, no worries of full disassembly or wasted time. In my experience. Nice safety briefing & Eric referral.
Great job on this video. you were nothing if not thorough. Like you said at the end of the video, you're not a professional mechanic... But the problem with most of these videos is that the person who made it assumes it's being watched by professional mechanics, so they skip over a lot of details which usually turn out to make or break the project.
Thanks a bunch.
Good job, bud. I had tremendous trouble getting it done. Thanks for the video.
Great instructional video! I had never heard of this type of rotor configuration either. If I ever run into it (I'm an amateur who does almost all of his own automotive maintenance and repair work), your video will help me immensely!
Its been a while since I removed mine, but I don't remember any play in that bearing. Usually when you have play in a bearing like that, its a sign that it is wearing and may eventually fail or seize. I am always paranoid with critical parts like wheel bearing, so I stay on the safe side and replace them with new ones. My justification is that the money I'm saving by doing it myself offsets the cost of the parts. Good luck!
Good call on using the old rotor as a support. I raise a glass
I agree with hitman6191, for Honda owners in areas that see more rust and corrosion, where roads are salted in winter or near coastlines, this is a frustrating issue. I've seen videos from drier parts of the US where the hub, rotor and bearing assembly easily separates from the steering knuckle the way it should. I wrote Honda regional but the manager's reply was that this was not a design shortcoming. To replace only the rotor, there is a hub removal tool that separates the inboard and outboard parts of the inner race (sealed bearing-not meant to be separated), the outboard piece remains on the hub, as what happened in this video. The outboard inner race half is returned to its place in the bearing when the hub is placed on the wheel spindle and the spindle nut is tightened and torqued. A new bearing can be installed on the hub this way, without the use of a press. Bolt the new bearing to the knuckle then install hub onto spindle and tighten the spindle nut, this essentially "presses" the bearing onto the hub.
Brad I need to replace one lug nut screw. So I just need to remove the hub from my 95. Do I have to remove all that? Or is there an easier way?
Wow, found this video at the end of 2023🤯
That's crazy hard bad desien,,,,fning nuts..... thank your. You are professional now.....
Doing same job now can’t get break rotor bolts out because socket would job off. Socket was tight on the bolts but would still jump even when pushing hard while trying to drive them off
謝謝，感謝分享！
What are the length and thread pitch for the 4 bolts you just took off?
Quick solution is a slide hammer with a stud attachment takes me 30 mins both sides and your done I've done hundreds like this works everytime
At the time I couldn't find a video explaining how to use a slide hammer. I've found that experienced people such as yourself don't have any reason to post a how-to video so it ends up being amatuers like myself that try to figure it out and share our experience in a video. The problem being that my method may not be the most effective or time/cost efficient solution as the experienced mechanics.
lgonzalez1154 hit me up explain me how asap im going to change mine i need help soy-flow@hotmail.com
www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/122005_08.pdf
If its tight ....most are. You are unknowingly damaging the bearing. It will take some time but it will have an early demise. High impact like that is rarely good. imho
Brad Grissom its a called a "slide hammer hub puller"
They do have them as one assembly but, of course, they cost more than just a bearing. Not every outlet carries them, however, but if you search, you can find one. You can also buy a separate new hub and assemble a new bearing onto it in advance but the hub is approximately $100 or more each.
Is this the same on all Honda Accord Wagons? I have 95 Honda Accord EX Vtec Wagon.
I haven't taken my rim off yet because I just got the car.
Yes and it sucks ass. I converted using the Acura CL 2.3l hub with new rotors and bearings. Definitely worth it
@@bonpun5066 thanks.
For my Personal Record's and to Spread the word.
Are the Rotors much smaller?
You have to use Acura CL 2.3L 4cyl Wheel Hubs,
Wheel Bearings & Rotors? Right.
Do you change the Caliper's too though?
Wagons Rotors are 11" I think.
I heard you can do floating rotor setup too from prelude.
But I don't know which is best for long term parts support.
Since 4cyl Hub already hard to find, can't buy new.
Accord Wagon I found out is similar to Accord Ex Sedan. But exact match is 6 Cyl Accord sedan/Coupe.
Accord Wagons get some 11" front Rotor's Upgrade. Same as the 6cyl Sedan/Coupe.
So just adds bit to the confusion.
@@1XSTEALTHTWINTURBOX1 Yes just get the Acura CL 2.3 hub, wheel bearings, and rotor. Your caliper and pads are interchangeable so you can keep the ones you have on your Accord
@@bonpun5066 very cool man if you ever know how to get these parts non salvage let us know so I could tell other people in the future as well.
Basically have to track down that car in a junkyard.
If you jack up your car to get that tire off of the ground, grab the tire with one hand at 12:00 position, grab tire with other hand at 6:00 position. Push in at 12 & pull out at 6, then reverse push pull action every second. Rock the tire with some real force. If the tire seems to feel loose, then the bearing is bad. If you are not sure, try the other tire that you think is in good condition. A bad bearing will allow more tire wear on both the inner & outer tread pattern like low tire pressure.
buy long hub bolts for back side screw in and use hammer or air chisel ,and hit in circular motion til loosen ,then remove bolts and seperate,you do not have to remove knuckle.
Thanks for this video, you saved me!
After getting it apart and cleaning the rust off where the wheel bearing goes into the steering knuckle put some grease there and the next time it will be easier to remove. The grease will keep it from rusting,,,,,,,,,,,
i did mine it wast that bad. actualy the key thing is that you have a common sense and a 20 ton hydraulic press which i bought from harbor freight.
great video. very informative
any help is always worth it thanks.
These are the worse brake jobs. I hated it so much when I gotta do my dads 96 Accord. Pain in the freak'n a$$. Broke 2 of the bolts on the back of the spindle due to rust. Had to go through 2 different spindles from the junk yard. That was 1 yr ago. Now his bearing is going...Wish me luck, again!
Good job man.
another solution since your replacing the bearings anyways and you don't have the tools just buy the hub and bearings kit, the bearings is already pressed in the hub and sometimes you can get it thru ebay with free shipping
Can you give us a link on where to find this conversion kit? It does sound like a good idea!
This helped alot bud, thanks so much..
good idea to press with the old rotor.
with this and erics version i have a better idea . nice video!
Wow. Wish I saw this video before I started the job. I have no access to a press. What a stupid set up. I have never encountered something like this that I couldn't just figure out on my own. How dumb. So frustrating haha.
Good job on this video!
They are called Captive rotors young fella.
what would be cool is that someone would just sell the wheel hub and bearing as one set. when you pop off the rotor you just replace. No need to further break down needed.
That design goes all the way back to 1991 and up you don't have to remove the whole knuckle assembly off of the car just undo the CV shaft nut, undo the lower ball joint nut break the lower ball joint free from the knuckle pull the knuckle assembly away then you can have a machinist or you can buy the remover (Looks like a steel hockey puck with a pilot on it). Insert the remover into the bearing and bang it out with a mallet.
Awesome video.
Great video though Brad
The method that I explained in the video involves putting the whole knuckle on a press. So obviously to do that, you'll need to remove it from the vehicle. I've heard of these slide hammers that people use to hammer and pop it out while it is still mounted to the vehicle (although I've had no experience with that method). I recommend this method because you can replace the wheel bearings while you are taking it all apart.
Thinking could have prayed bp blaster where the back is and between the shield and rotor then take a block of wood and place it on the sides and hit with a hammer to get it unstuck without using a press now with the bearings yes probably a socket or press
Good job.
Thanks for this bit of knowledge !! Just wish I had searched 1hr of @#%& earlier thanks again
Nice job
You are a genuies.
no me dice como cambiar los rotores traseros de un honda acvord 1995
Wow thanks buddy
good job
good info thanks
cool tips!
I just used wd40 let it sink in and it slips right out
there should be no in and out play in a bearing if so your bearing is bad
This wouldn't be a difficult job if the hub just popped out like that.
still cant get the dang thang out! aaarrrrggggghhhh.... thanks, tho. very helpful
Best to get the entire hub assembly kit. Bearings already attached. You just pop it into the rotor.
Ya disregard that comment. Left muy youtube signed in
Why does he call the brake disk a brake rotor?
A better way - search youtube for . . . .
1990-1997 Accord Brake Job (Captive Rotor Replacement) Hub Over Rotor Part 1
Se ve bien explicado pero me gustaría q este traducido al español latino...por q no entiendo nada de lo q dice este gringo.
its called a captive rotor
Check Eric the Car guys version. Much simpler than this guys hard to understand method
This is vid of explenation not action vid actually doing it
wow, complicated as shit for a damn rotor
Lol use a press it's like the easiest thing to do
whao
horrible design Honda ****head shake**
Great video