How Bespoke Shoe Lasts are Made | By Dominic Casey
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2018
- Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, stops by LastMaker House in Eastbourne to get started on a bespoke pair of shoes. Dominic Casey, renowned last maker, and bespoke shoemaker go through the process of making Kirby's bespoke shoe last. Watch the amazing process that is making a bespoke shoe last!
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Love to see people exploring the magnificent world of bespoke tailoring and shoe making. The difference between bespoke and off the rack is night and day. Only problem is, once you've experienced that difference, you'll never go back!
I love watching a skilled craftsman perform his trade.
That shoemaker actually messed up on the last.
Trying really hard to cover it up.
Also kirby realises it.
@@Itsinayahxoxo How?
@@Itsinayahxoxo time code?
Must say, your interviewing style and directing style is fantastic Kirby. I do love that you have no ego, and manage to curbe the urge to interrupt and really let your guest shine. I also like when you follow up with questions for more details.
Keep the great videos coming, theese are becoming my favorite channel.
Yes, he doesn't even interrupt with "mmhmm" or anything else distracting. He just lets them speak and share their knowlege without interrupting.
I wish he would go back to this style of interview
Such a pleasure to watch, he is a true artisan, thank you Kirby.
I'm starting to think about beginning to consider imagining making my own shoes.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know a method to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Aries Gregory Instablaster :)
@@ariesgregory1072 dude, reset your password. there's a button like "i forgot my password" or something like that.
Did you ever get to contemplating
Did you give it a try
Thank you Kirby for the beautiful and exquisite work of art!
Dear Kirby, please do a similar video in documenting behind the scene working process of a bespoke suit. There are lack of exposure in the hand work and construction of a bespoke garment. Such a thorough video like your typical ones surely will educate a lot of viewers. Thanks
yes... we would love to! We have some content coming out with Huntsman, but there is still plenty more we could film.
The Hanger Project thanks! Looking forward to it..
Dominic: “nobody would ever want a shoe made out of a shape like that.”
Allen Edmonds: “hold my beer....”
😂
You really did them dirty, and they fully deserved it. 😂
I need to begin to start thinking about watching this video.
...it begins with a click ;)
Lol
He really is very non-commital 🤣
You can understand why though. One can remove, but one can’t put the wood back once it’s gone.
Amazing artisan craftsmanship..very classy looking last!
We filmed the first fitting in London last week!
I am glad to have found this channel. Amazing to see the bespoke process!
I was waiting for Kirby to start singing “Would you be my neighbor”! Brilliant! Cheers mates!!
This was a fantastic video. You're like Mister Rogers for adult men who like to dress well. You show us amazing behind the scenes content on how the clothing is made. Thank you.
You also have great theme music.
Had a moment when he said, because of the thickness of the pencil 0.0. such craftsmanship. EDIT: now I have to be aware of the muscles running through here up to the cone of your foot........ I cannot fathom this level of professionalism
Meanwhile, Kanye's trainer company - _"It's got gold and shiz on it; gimme eleventy-million dollars"_
Such an incredible process. I could never do it which makes me appreciate it so much more
Absolutely. One of those special crafts that literally takes a lifetime to really master.
Amazing stuff. A master at work
Thank you so much, Mr. Allison! This is the most important journey, next to series with Lee Miller. I've seen some vids about shoemaking but lastmaking vids are rarity.
Indeed!
Bravo maestro!!
Truly an artist.
Absolutely beautiful 👌🏼
Very interesting to be able to watch
Love the attention to detail
Another excellent video!
This is absolutely amazing. Thank you Mr. Allison for bringing this sort of content to us all. I know i will never be able to get a bespoke shoe but I can appreciate the craftsmanship involved.
Why can't you get a bespoke shoe?
@@ketherga bc spending more than 5K on a bespoke shoe is not in the budget. It's a luxury I don't have...
You can get them much cheaper in other countries such as Poland (check out Jan Kielman) which would cost you around 700GBP. And also in India which will be way cheaper around 100 quid. All the best.
Chris Vidarte It is always nice to have something to aspire to, so don’t give up on the idea! A lot of these new, independent bespoke shoemakers are quite reasonable. They do not come with the cost structures of the large, historic houses. I believe Dominic Casey’s price is around £2,500. Still expensive, indeed, but half the cost of some of the high street firms.
You definitely could have it in your budget if you were willing to save for it. It's all about what you're willing to prioritize.
This is some fine craftmanship. Something I fear will eventually die out
Daniel J. Hopefully not! There has actually been a recent resurgence within the bespoke shoe trade fueled by the internet, which has been able to showcase and broadcast their incredible work.
Daniel J. I’m with you on this. Sadly the world we live in dictates that those with practical artisan skills can’t afford any luxuries or even a home of their own. Take any director and ask them to do this and they would be completely useless.
Skills such as these are so completely devalued as to make them unattractive or even unviable to anyone wanting to create a sustainable existence for themselves.
Every time Dominic shook Kirby's hand, Kirby's hand turned red. That is sure a firm handshake!
referring to this videos picture composition...beautiful background choice in the part outside at the end and your outfits look nice together and nicely contrasting.
Finally! I was waiting for the second part of this series, was wondering if there was an issue!
We have one more segment airing today!
Yes!
Yes but it will make
Thank you Kirby
This is amazing. I can't wait to purchase my own bespoke shoes in the future. Are you going to continue the video with fitting and final product?
Arian Tontowi I’ll be in London this Friday for the fitting, which we will of course film! Hoping to also get some of the making on camera, also.
If i was ever lucky enough to have him make me a pair of shoes, i'd never ask 'how much' ... Awesome video. People not really in the know often say, well what's the difference from a few dollar pair of chain store shoes and bespoke. Amazing differences,..
fantastic.
Love your shows. Really entertaining and informative. Keep up the great work Kirby.👍👍👍
Marvelously interesting
Why do I needed to know all this? Weird times bro... But it's awesome 😍
Fantastic video.
Can you advise me, What wood to use? Maple is expensive and not easy to get.
Rewatching this, and it might be the least Kirby has talked in a video ever.
😅😂
Actually good
was thinking of using 3d scanning for videogames to make a digital last for my self then make a Gerber file to 3d print it. so basically stand on a plate as a camera rotates around your foot and then in software make the last shape to lower the polygon count. you can sculpt it like clay in software then print a hollow shell last to design the shoe as needed. also, you could photo scan the paper patterns you make to save them for later adjustments.
John Garvey I was thinking the same thing.
Plastic would work well
This is simple, but also complicated. I had no idea how much went into making a shoe form for the foot.
Aha. He's a lefty craftsmen. I love to see lefties at work, b/c the impression seems to be that things are harder for us, but as you can see, he's not struggling at all. The ratio of lefties to right handed folk is actually changing. There are more lefties today than 50 years ago, b/c the taboo has diminished.
спасибо .
I'm betting this has been asked before, but why not just pour a mold/cast of your foot and get a near exact last made?
I've been wondering the same thing. Based on the 6 other likes on your comment, there are at least 8 of us.
Other bespoke makers do cast.
Because the last works as a guide for shoe making. Its not a copy of your foot. Its explained during the video and the previous one
It is very easy, because you get a copy of your foot, if you try to make a shoe with those measurements and that mold will be an authentic failure, why? Because you must know how to adjust that mold and apply or reduce measures as the mold has been taken.
Nowadays, there are no craftsmen who know how to make lasts from a plaster model, nor do they know how to make a piece of wood, much less know how to make a shoe alone, they need a team composed of designer, cutter, dresser, editor ... .... I have been an artisan since I was 8 years old ... so you can imagine
@@construcciondeguitarrasman7744 I have no idea what you are trying to say...
this is actually interesting.
i would like to know how to get materials from you, like good polish, lasts and some other items like that
Angela Adeh HangerProject.com
Love this video. Thanks to both of you. I am a professional leather worker who started forty years ago. I’ve done almost no shoe work, but that is changing. I have a pair of oversized lasts that I plan to fit to my feet. This presentation is helpful.
Please allow me on comment on use of the language. The word “actually” has no meaning and adds nothing to any sentence. It is so abused in this video that I found it difficult to keep listening. I urge both of you to repeat some of the sentences you used here without that word. You will discover that you have said the same thing but more cleanly and efficiently.
All the best,
James H.
North Carolina
Aren’t there technology to do that using CNC like machines or 3D printing? Just asking.... it would be great...
Thank you for the very interesting video, Kirby. My question is, what type of wood is used for such shoe lasts? Are there different types of wood that shoemakers choose from, or is there an "industry standard" that all shoemakers use? I have a feeling that part of this decision depends on the wood's rings; it's probably visually easier to shape the last if the wood has very distinctive rings.
Probably limewood or basswood .
Most of the time its actually mahagoni.
Beech, Oak or hornbeam or other hard wood. Certainly not Mahogany it is not hard enough and would only make one shoe due to splitting.
@@francispaul5621 Didnt read so much bullshit for a longtime. please do not write such nonsense! Most of the time its mahagoni.
creative thinking of craftmanship, more information and #basicskilldevelopment of videos please
should be called last adjusting
Quite a work of art!
While I appreciate the skill and labour involved correlates to the cost, one wonders if there aren't more efficient methods? Such as a foot casting or computer controlled lasar measurement and last cutout. Certainly not as Old World artisan but may slide price down to grasp of middle class.
I've never heard of a foot scanner that produced a beautiful last...
B A
That kind of thing will be available soon enough. There are already body scanners used by clothing manufacturers to get a better idea of how people’s size/shape has changed in the last decades...to optimize off the rack clothing.
Won‘t be long till we just get scanned in such a machine and then order clothing/shoes either made to measure, or at least with a recommendation as to which brand/line is most likely to fit well. Can’t wait personally. Handcrafted stuff is wonderful indeed, but not affordable for most. Modern technology will provide a nice compromise between this kind of thing and mass produced garbage.
Reebok is already pioneering this technology. This is a few years back and I do not know the results but they were using lasers to map the specific foot then 3d printing it. There are already people doing 3d print outs of lasts that were made using scans of ones feet. These are exact copies of your feet, far beyond what a bespoke last maker could do in the same time or price point.
@@AsAnAtheistFilms A last is not a replica of a foot, but the inside of a particular shoe design for a foot accounting for; among other things heel height, toe spring, leather thickness and anything else that occurs to the last makers based on customer needs. A bespoke service by definition is a unique service and therefore would not justify the cost of high volume production software and hardware. Hope this explains a little, Reebok among others are looking to get their production shoe sizes down to S,M, L…something to look forward to then 🤣
Kirby can you do a video on hats about them styles of hats etc or am I the only one who wears a hat these days you have done shoes gloves Suits etc but not mentioned hats
do the lasts need to be kept in a humidity controlled environment?
What type wood is best? Could this reduction method work on injection molded last? I want to meet this man 😭
Cedar would make sense, as it's water-absorbent.
FYI = @30:29 the bottom right corner popup tickler is mis-spelled
"PLEASE SUSBSCRIBE"
Does anyone know what tool he is using in 8:12
Can a last be made from a 3D printer? It seems like a better way to make it unless there is something that I am not thinking of. Grateful Grandpa
How do you get the lasts out of the shoes when finished?
If has Screw you take them off with a Screwdriver, and for pulling out you can use 2 things, A rope to tie on the last and on the foot then you pull up and the other way is use a iron hook then pull from the last
What's song name?
Can you explained with top side and front view x ray of the person foot and explained what you are saying to shape the last. Also 3 d reconstruction of the foot in one cycle of human step where human transfer their body weight through heal strike phase swing phase and toe off phase! The beast is no shoes but foot were does why prevent foot get contamination from the ground surface ,moor boot for example is beast design for walking.
All leather shoes used to be pretty easy to get. They seem to have vanished from the stores. I have allergies that make cloth and foam in the shoes not really work for me. So I've been trying to learn how to make my own shoes as I can't buy them anymore. I'm still trying to figure out how he gets a block of wood that large without splitting. I've got mostly Oak and very few pine trees to work with. He says there's no curves with what his starting with. As an engineer, there are plenty of curves with what he started with. As a tutorial, there is an enormous amount of information missing from this video. I will keep looking and hope that I eventually figure out how to make decent shoes. I'm tired of wearing those plastic clog things. I suppose at least I'm not allergic to them after I air them out out for a year or so.
you can laminate straight grained segments together to make a sturdy block. Most modern glues are stronger than the wood.
Seen brands like samual windsor shoes handmade goodyear welted Italian leather but so cheap because there made in India but do you get the quality anyone tried them
I’ll post the video documenting the creation of my bespoke underpants.
this is a fantastic skill, but why wouldnt a type of casting or 3D printing produce a more accurate last?
Because classic process makes legend
New technology makes Nike pathetic shoes
@@bidyutbikashtalukdar8675 read my query again, and perhaps make an intelligent comment. I get the traditional aspect as referenced in my comment. Surely the point of a custom shoe is a perfect fit. If there's a better way to obtain a more perfect facsimile of the foot, why would contemporary makers not consider that method?
He mentions this about 1/3 of the way through the video. The last isn't supposed to be exactly following the shape of the foot
@@favre4721 sure, but wouldn't as close a replica as possible be desirable?
No. He's trying to make a last, not a wooden sculpture of his foot. Two very different things.
How about 3d scanning the foot and 3d printing the model?
I think that there is an interesting application here for low-end MTO. One could scan their foot and then have the computer determine which stock last would be the best fit. Maybe it would make some small last adjustment recommendations... but I don't think it would ever achieve the level of art of a bespoke shoe. Fundamentally, lastmaking is sculpture. Someone is interpreting the foot into a three-dimensional shape that is meant to be beautiful and elegant.
I’m gonna do a kickstarter with this idea lmaoo
@@Dankyjrthethird :D
Does anyone know how long these skills have been around? Would shoes that fitted like this have been made for medieval monarchs?
I would love to be his apprentice
Why not use a mold? rubber or gypsy
The Last Comes First
is it suposed to be that much extra space in the front inside? also why is Kirby so awkward here?
The tip length can be as large as you want but only first you need to have enough room for the overall toes, above of 0.5cm, only problem is this kind of shape of pointy shoes are better for people that has the 2toe larger, people with the big toe large it will leave a lot of room in the rest of the toes
Jealous in the same extreme. I wear a kafo on in leg which is badly fitted in the foot area causing agonising pain My orthotist had eventually agreed to allow nhs shoes to be provided which basically do not fit either foot. Sadly I cannot afford bespoke footwear and never realized such intricate measuring could be taken hi now feel even more "let down " by the "system"
The way they adjust the final shoev is to add 2 or 3 foam insoles which they assume is adequate
Couldn’t the last be made to the exact specs the modern way; using a laser mapping of the foot and a 3D printer?
Yes! They already do this: www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYXM8EG/
@@kirbyallison You're joking. LOL
@@kirbyallison LOL Didn't expect this hahhaha
These two keep talking over one another
Lasers and CNC
Nice video of show and tell. Too much 'tell' however.
Why not just make a plaster cast of each foot?
It needs to be able to hold nails... Plaster would fall apart
This guy is great but he won't let Kirby get a word in.
спасиба . на учите мне . тоже
How the lasts work? Pull them apart to show how they work.
Surely he could make the left shoe to fit his size 9.5 instead of a 10. Why pay for bespoke shoes when only one fits?
haha your name is kirby
Never knew Captain Jack Sparrow made shoes. 🧐
It´s not a first time i´ve noticed how Kirby gives hand to people for handshake. He holds it for himself. People must reach for his hand or to come closer. It´s disrespectful.
Can a shoe last be made with a 3D printer? Grateful Grandpa
I didn't understand why he would make both a size 10 when the left is 9½, surely that defeats the purpose of bespoke.
No man, the thing is always make the last with the biggest size of the feet, after that the shoemaker can customize, sand it down or layers of Leather Bulge out areas that tighten only if one size is not above 1size more, maybe because they have 2 people working different, the carpenter could have different knowledge, i as shoemaker i make both shoe and last myself, bcz i can feel the person's feet, how he walks, Foot type, with that, the anatomical knowledge learned and woodworking, i said what I learned but maybe they have a different idea
This guy so looks the part 😂
It's a bit ridiculous, I'd like to see your shoes on and the opinion of the customers, that's essential to know how you work.
Can all be done more accurately with machine tools
Great video from you both, but very very long winded. Talking about building the shape of the heel for few minutes, c'mon get on with it. Unusual for a Brit. Even Kirby was bored.
Nice suit but it looks really out of place in that workshop.
He's the client not the artisan, traditional attire for a gentleman to wear when in town.
I repair my shoes.
Why not just wear sandals? I mean, you cannot get more comfortable than that.
According to hugo jacomet this is made-to-measure and not bespoke. Hmm
Irene Vergara 😂 I know Hugo. And I know Hugo knows what bespoke is. And this is bespoke.
@@kirbyallison hello sorry! Maybe i didnt understand that interview with hugo where he differentiated bespoke and made to measure. Thank you for correcting me :)
@@kirbyallison although, hugo did mention in that interview that made-to-measure is done by starting with a pre-made last then customizing from then. Now, im confused
Yes, and no. It really comes down to the scope of modifications. In a good MTO program, adjustments are quite minor and normally limited to building up the instep. Mr. Casey is starting from a large pre-carved last to save him the trouble of having to cut large chunks out of a square block of wood. The end result, though, is the same. Once he is complete, every shape and dimension of the last will have been carved into it by hand. This is bespoke. The starting block is just a small shortcut that has no effect on the final outcome.
just chop his legs off and make your shoes...
i dont want to sound like a hater, but why not invest in a 3d printer - scan his foot and print it in plastic! it will save a lot of time!
It’s a shame that with the technology revolution that this will soon be a lost skill.... 3D printing lasts from scans already exist... soon that will be the norm
methinks they don't like each other
That shoemaker actually messed up on the last.
Trying really hard to cover it up.
Also kirby realises it.
time code?
You commented this literally six times but failed to explain when and where
Wouldn't bespoke start with a block of wood, not a last blank? This is just customization.
No man, it's a precut last, it's a shortcut and faster, but after he carves it into the shape of the client, it's bespoke bcz it's fully made based in the measurements of the client just started with a precut piece, you can start with the block and the result will be same but it takes extra hours wasted and tools Worn out, customization in the last shoemaking is modifying the tip, sand a bit or add some leather layer for the Tight parts with a already made shoe last, but never changing structure overall
@@alessiocai9952 . Correct about it being more wasteful, but starting with a block of wood is true bespoke. Just like starting without any pattern is bespoke in clothing even though a suit jacket or pants or shirt will be basically the same shape no matter the measurements. If you start with a pattern or blank or whatever, it is customized. Still better than off the rack, but not true bespoke.
@@lujadosyning the definition is wrong, true bespoke is, tailored made clothes or something for wear, it means particularly tailored to fit a customer, starting with precut things it's the same, it will give you dame results, it's like saying, instead you buy wood blocks, you forge shoemaker tool by yourself, with carbon steel, and anvil, then you cut a raw three by yourself, sand the whole tree and cut block and make a last from that last wood?
@@lujadosyning only small business with low resources i think they would do it by themself the wood block, because you can't pay a worker a week's job only for him to carve from a piece of wood that it's so much money that goes in the pay and government, you meant by artisan
@@alessiocai9952 it is clear that we won't agree. If a bespoke tailor came to me with a pattern and offered to adjust it to my measurements, I would not believe it to be bespoke. If a bespoke last maker came to me with a last blank and offered to adjust it to my measurements, I would not accept that as bespoke. You would. The last maker would take you as a client and I would find someone willing to start from raw wood. It doesn't need to be an issue.
I don’t understand how the intended viewer for something as interesting and artisan as this is over-written by this god-awful repetitive music. Can we just have silence and listen to what the craftsman is saying? If not, then how about some good classical music rather than this three note endless half-wit repetition?
That waist coat he is wearing in this video needs work! Look at the rolls in it.
PLEASE USE 3D PRINTING,RATHER THAN GUESSES AND IMAGINATIONS.