V1 to V2 notable differences: The frame is now significantly lighter. The new CNC side plate is lighter and perfectly fits the DJI O3 AU camera. The new battery anti-slip pad is more “sticky” and has better adhesion. Added keystone to even further reduce arm vibration. Added bottom screw gasket. Added motor wire protection tubes. The four middle screws on the top plate are now countersunk and sit flush, to eliminate possible battery damages during crashes. The new TPU arm protectors are now lighter and allow for easier dissassebly. All models now come with two types of TPU antenna mount (with or without GPS mount). The thickness of the bottom and middle plates has been adjusted to 2.5mm. The connection structure between the arm and the clamp plate is slightly adjusted to distribute stress better. XT60 plug cutout on the top plate is now symmetrical, allowing installation of the XT60 in both orientations.
I bought two Voladors II’s a deadcat and the X. Between the Demibot, the Tanq and the Volador I do believe they are the strongest frames out there based on the design and materials used. Sweeet 👍👍🇺🇸👊😎👍👍
I built DC V1 and now building DC VII. Only one issue, the 12MM screws shown in this video are actually 10MM screws, even though the plastic baggy sticker says 12MM.
Where did you install the capacitor in this build? I am building drone with the VX5 frame, and the have no idea where to put the capacitor. There is not enough space between the VTX and the FC ESC stack.
I put my capacitor up front right behind the camera. You can use some spare wire run from Vbat + & - under the ESC up to the front, and stuck the capacitor to the frame with double sided tape and a tiny zip tie to keep it in place.@@maetthum
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have assembled the drone with this frame, honestly the best I have ever had. I only have a problem with the compatibility of the battery, could you advise me on a 6S battery that is compatible with the length of the cable? I have the RLINE but it is too short. Thanks in advance, regards
I would rather not use the original screws for O3 camera, as they are too short and the cap is too wide, so they touch the frame (or are dangerously close), and squeeze too much. The ones that come with Volador II pack are just perfect (M2x5 screws), so they are a little longer and they are meant for the camera.
Does rocksteady work well with the silicon mounting on the o3? I have a tanq and rocksteady doesn't work because of the tpu camera mount. To much vibrations. Looking to switch to this frame I think
![☀ Мои новые дроны для съемок. Сборка по красоте [FlyFishRC Valador + Flash]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NRVOmrNWN9Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![☀ Мои новые дроны для съемок. Сборка по красоте [FlyFishRC Valador + Flash]](/img/tr.png)
simply THE strongest Frame you can get
Thank you for your accomplishment.
V1 to V2 notable differences:
The frame is now significantly lighter.
The new CNC side plate is lighter and perfectly fits the DJI O3 AU camera.
The new battery anti-slip pad is more “sticky” and has better adhesion.
Added keystone to even further reduce arm vibration.
Added bottom screw gasket.
Added motor wire protection tubes.
The four middle screws on the top plate are now countersunk and sit flush, to eliminate possible battery damages during crashes.
The new TPU arm protectors are now lighter and allow for easier dissassebly.
All models now come with two types of TPU antenna mount (with or without GPS mount).
The thickness of the bottom and middle plates has been adjusted to 2.5mm.
The connection structure between the arm and the clamp plate is slightly adjusted to distribute stress better.
XT60 plug cutout on the top plate is now symmetrical, allowing installation of the XT60 in both orientations.
Excellent build video.
It is so nice of you to share these information with other people and let people know the details of our product.😘
How come he did not use a capacitor in the build???
at home its wireless
I bought two Voladors II’s a deadcat and the X. Between the Demibot, the Tanq and the Volador I do believe they are the strongest frames out there based on the design and materials used. Sweeet 👍👍🇺🇸👊😎👍👍
It is my pleasure🥰
I built DC V1 and now building DC VII. Only one issue, the 12MM screws shown in this video are actually 10MM screws, even though the plastic baggy sticker says 12MM.
I am so sorry to hear that. You can consult our customer service staff, they can help you find a solution.
@@flyfishrc i have this same problem.
Same how did you solve this?
@@tankki1583 I had left over screws that i used for it from building so many quads.
Where did you install the capacitor in this build? I am building drone with the VX5 frame, and the have no idea where to put the capacitor. There is not enough space between the VTX and the FC ESC stack.
Put it in the cavity of the center board. You can use solid-state capacitors, which are smaller in size.
@@piercel8553 That is where all the cables go. The place for capacitor is really the minus of this frame.
I don‘t get it where to put the original capacitor…
I put my capacitor up front right behind the camera. You can use some spare wire run from Vbat + & - under the ESC up to the front, and stuck the capacitor to the frame with double sided tape and a tiny zip tie to keep it in place.@@maetthum
does this build require longer camera cable?
I wanna fly this thing! Been looking to get ahold of the v2 to test it and review it.
69 dolla at race day quads
Good enjoyment.😀
Would like to build mine but it’s taken forever to get in the mail. Still waiting.
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have assembled the drone with this frame, honestly the best I have ever had. I only have a problem with the compatibility of the battery, could you advise me on a 6S battery that is compatible with the length of the cable? I have the RLINE but it is too short. Thanks in advance, regards
good job👍
I don't understand the gps mount are the m2 screws supposed to screw into little lock nuts
3:29 cap under the esc
what ESC and fc you use
Hello, what size of gps module fits in that frame, the small one, or the big one? Greetings from germany.
Like to know as well. Thanks.
Dimensions of the unit they use in the video is 20x20x11mm. The name of the unit is m8qmc-5883L
What size screw is needed to mount GoPro m3 or ?5?
What PID settings do you recommend?
Why you don't show how the condensator is mount in the frame ? where is it ?
What does the keystone supposedly do?
Where did you put the Condo
Anyone can tell me if i can put the hardware of my nazgul5hd inside this frame? thanks in advance
Could you tell me names of ESC and FC you used in this video?
I would rather not use the original screws for O3 camera, as they are too short and the cap is too wide, so they touch the frame (or are dangerously close), and squeeze too much. The ones that come with Volador II pack are just perfect (M2x5 screws), so they are a little longer and they are meant for the camera.
I'm happy for you that you finally found a solution, and if you have any questions next, you can consult our customer service staff
Does rocksteady work well with the silicon mounting on the o3? I have a tanq and rocksteady doesn't work because of the tpu camera mount. To much vibrations. Looking to switch to this frame I think
where is the capacitor?
I don‘t get it where to put the original capacitor…
what engines do you recommend for this frame?
Engines :), that is just a fun name, brouht a smile to my face. I use Flyfish Sword motors, 2207/1850KV. You can always use higher.
@@jurijavsenakHello friends, what PID settings do you recommend ?
Je comprends moi je n’ai pas de M2*12 j’ai que des M2*10
重量多少
very poor video