Thank you for not speeding through everything and for keeping any music you do include to be more relaxed rather than frenetic. Also, I personally enjoy hearing the actual noise of the work being done.
The first wooden ship I tried to build was a failure. Seeing a lot of new techniques with your videos. Thanks. Will help with my second attempt this winter.
Я очень заинтересован в вашем прогрессе в этом проекте, как и все те, которые вы делаете, обещает быть очень интересным, в июне этого года я закончил делать этот комплект Amati, теперь, воспользовавшись тем, что у меня есть вся техническая документация, я начал его снова от нуля до удвоенного размера, масштаб 1:32, и мне будет интересно посмотреть, как учитель, как вы, решает каждый шаг, Я уверен, что мне есть чему поучиться. Привет из Барселоны!!!
Спасибо! Я рада что вы нашли тут полезную информацию! Следующий выпуск запланирован на 17 сентября - "Первый слой обшивки"... Gracias! ¡Me alegra que hayas encontrado información útil aquí! El próximo número está programado para el 17 de septiembre: "La primera capa de entarimado" ...
Thank you for your excellent, and inspiring videos, I sometimes make ships when I lose interest in military modelling, though seldom, I will always enjoy working with wood. Thank you again.
Enjoying all the prepatory phases these kits go through to satisfy the need for order that you find so very beneficial. You orchestrate every element, as a composer may layer a work together symphonically. Its masterful.
Io uso la garza medica imbevuta di Vinavil acquoso riempitivo del fasciame interno ed una volta asciugato faccio una seconda passata con Vinavil denso che asciugando diventa come roccia e può essere riempito nelle fessure con stucco metallico e carteggiato! Il risultato é sensazionale e perfetto che oltre a coprire tutti i difetti dello scafo rende rigido il fasciame bloccandone il molleggio e facilitandone cosí la Carteggiatura!
@@OlhaBatchvarovSe Ti riferisci al fasciame rastremato per il raccordo Longitudinale non c'è problema perché lo Stucco Metallico aderisce perfettamente!
Ti faccio i miei complimenti fai dei lavori fantastici sei molto molto brava. Mi sono subito iscritto al canale così prendo idee dai tuoi lavori! Ciao!!!:)
This is really good. It's a practicum essentially. If you do the rigging step by step just like this video... That would help so many of us. It's good to see some master-level ship modeling on TH-cam.
Another adventure that will be fascinating to follow. I love your choice of piano music. A scroll saw would also have been useful to cut the filling blocks ;)
Thank you very much! Yes, this little sloop seems to be a pretty model! Indeed, one scroll saw can make this piece of work even better and faster. Just because I don't have it I use 2 machines... P.S. It was a waltz - my favorite style of music!
Olha, good morning. Beautiful presentation of a perfect work. I really liked the softer background music. So let's go to the next chapters!! Best regards.
Thank you very much! This is my favorite style of music - I love waltzes. It is a pity that they are a great rarity in the list of music without royalties...
Olha a quick question. I have this kit and am following along with your videos and the instructions, of course. I put in the thick false deck and unfortunately after the glue dried I noticed it was about 1/8 of an inch too high in the stern. Is that going to cause me troubles further down the road or is that false deck just there for a structural stability and I should be fine leaving it as is? I have not yet put in the wood between the frames which is the next step. Appreciate your advice at your convenience. Thanks very much.
If it's not too late, it's better to fix it, otherwise the guns you put on this deck may not hit the ports. If this is possible, you can heat the glue and press it to the end of the deck or peel it off and re-glue it! Of course if you're not interested in historical accuracy, then you can just cut the ports 1.8 higher and build on...
This kit does not have a lot of instructions, but there are very detailed drawings, but there are no recommendations either. The manufacturers generally leaves this part to the discretion of the modeler. Although some have already started writing recommendations for filling the spaces. This is necessary if you want to get perfectly correct lines of the ship...
@@OlhaBatchvarov that’s where the experience comes in. 😁 That’s the kind of details I like to see to incorporate in my future ship modeling. Thanks for the reply. 👍
Hi, Ohla! I'm curious because it's not shown on the video...did you make any provisions for the bearding line & tapering the bow, stem, or keel area? Or rabbet line? If not, why not? Thanks in advance & the model is beautiful!!!😊
If you do the same way I did, then you shouldn't make rabbet. Only tapering the bow and stern. In general, I did it by sanding both layers of the planking on the stern))) And stem on the bow...
Hello. I have a question whether you will make sails for this ship in addition, I know that they are not in the kit. otherwise you have very dexterous hands.
Hi, might you ever consider building the USS Constitution 1:76 scale by Model Expo? It’s my next project and I would love to see how you would approach it!
Hi Olha ... congrats for the videos ! just a quick question ... why did you not plank the 1st deck BEFORE intalling it ? Will not be more difficult after ? Thanks ... Cheers from Greece !!
Thank you! Because the manufacturer simplifies the design and ignores the details. I will put waterways and scuppers before planking the deck... That's why I don't use the instructions!
Lovely work. I have only built Artesania models as they are virtually the only ones we can buy in Australia. I would like to try other models and was thinking Amati or Occre. Which make would you recommend for quality of wood and parts etc.
Thank you! This is my second kit from their Victory Models collection made by Amati. I am satisfied with how easy it is to build a ship, as well as the quality of materials and instructions. And in this kit there are also 12 very detailed drawings! I can't say anything about Occre because I never built their kits!
Всегда пожалуйста! Я думаю - смогу делать 1 видео в месяц. По факту то что вЬІ видете тут на видео - ето 5 дней работ включая ожидание вЬІсЬІхания клея. Ето примерно 20% времени от всего потраченного вместе с написанием пошагового пособия и фото/видео редактирования...
I plan to rig and additionally sew sails for this ship (I expect to make this project in a year). I will record the whole process on video and write a detailed blog with explanations to the video. Approximately 1 video per month. It depends not so much on the time spent on construction as on writing and photo&video editing. Based on this model, I will make a step-by-step guide, which I was constantly asked by the channel's subscribers - so it will be a slow process. P.S. In fact, it took 5 days to build the model that you see in the video, together with waiting for the glue to dry. This is approximately 20% of the time spent on the production of this tutorial.
Usually for skeleton I use Titebond II or any PVA of the D3 standard. I now live in a place with terribly high humidity in summer and it became necessary...
I was told one has to sand off the char from the laser cuts in order to get a good glue joint. I notice you do not sand it off, so I'm going to quit all that sanding.
It depends on what part needs to be glued. Because the laser cuts at an angle, and therefore for ideal gluing, it is sometimes necessary to sand the part (keel, stem, stern post) to an ideal angle of 90 degrees. But if it is only a skeleton, then this error can be neglected... If you use PVA glue of course! P.S. Traces of resin from laser cutting can be washed off with hot water or alcohol. If the part is charred, it is a defective kit!..
Love watching you build . One question, why do you pull the the nails after you have glued the deck down . With all respect to the shipyard owner . LOL
Olga, good afternoon! I know about the Amati models not by hearsay, they are just terrible quality. To make a normal model, you need to replace a lot of silumin and metal parts with wooden ones, make them from scratch. The assembly of such models turns into an assembly from scratch. But I have only encountered models from their usual line, not Victory models (this is their special series). Please tell me, in your opinion, is it possible to assemble a good quality model from this set, using only what is given in the box?
If you need to have all of the parts made for you, then you should stick with plastic models. This company makes very good models. I have made a few models and have no problems. Yes, I have made my own parts from those not we're not to my satisfaction. Wooden models offer a "Challenge".
I agree - you choose Amati when you want a challenge . But this is exactly something I look for when choosing my next model. Now I work on Endeavour 1934 1:80. I have done many parts myself. from scratch. changed the design of the mast and boom. made some metal parts from scratch. But isn't it the essence of the modeler's work?
@@jasonguttman548 I am very sorry for you that you have not tried high-quality wooden models, where there is no cheap silumin and there is a good instruction. Very good models from Amati?)) Make plastic models yourself)
Good afternoon! This is my second box from the "Victory Models" series - and it impressed me. Quite the opposite - here is a bunch of parts made of laser cutting wood. I was told on the forum that not so long ago the skeleton was made of plywood (about 6 years ago), now this part is made of MDF. It is possible that the manufacturer has upgraded this kit, because it looks much better than my previous one. The only silumin detail is a boat - but for me it's not a problem because I always make my own boats. I have a video unpacking here: th-cam.com/video/1mN5dtO7Kcw/w-d-xo.html
@@jasonguttman548 Yes, it's true! The manufacturers give you a basis on which you can add everything that was historically or according to the drawings missed in the kit to simplify construction for beginners!
What an absolute privilege it is to see a master craftsman at work, or for those amongst us that are sensitive to correct use of gender pronouns, craftsperson. Thank you so much for sharing.
Muy buen trabajo, pero eso es un kit. Me gustaría que hagas uno sin tanta maquinaria y sin disponer de tanta madera usando cosas caseras, cartones o diferentes tipos de tergopoles de alta densidad. Serían más fáciles de fabricar y muchísimo más liviano, aunque se que utilizas madera balsa. Creo también que el montaje al ser muy exacto no hace falta el uso de pegamento. Igual, tus trabajos me sirven de guía para hacer uno yo.
Доброго времени суток! По факту - 5 дней. Так как чисто технологически нужно бЬІло ждать каждЬІй раз пока клей вЬІсохнет перед заполнением шпаций, перед малковкой и финишной шлифовкой! По времени бЬІло все довольно бЬІстро кроме малковки - вот на нее я действительно потратила день между завтраком, ужином и уборкой дома))))
Hi Olha... That took alot of time to cut those filler blocks nice work. Maybe a small palm sander might have worked a little faster. Great video as always.
Comunque quel lavoro di riempimento tra ordinata e ordinata non sarebbe necessario se ordinate e chiglia fossero di buon compensato e non di cartone presso fuso.
Non sono d'accordo con te qui. Per un telaio in compensato, è necessario riempire tutti gli spazi in modo che il modello non si attorcigli in futuro, perché il compensato lo fa molto facilmente a causa dei cambiamenti di umidità. E con l'MDF hai subito una cornice perfettamente piana. Pertanto, ho riempito solo gli spazi in cui è difficile piegare le assi...
Thank you very much! You can ask anything you are interested in here in the comments! Or use the feedback on my website - the link in the description below the video!
Gracias! Tienes razón! Desde el momento en que me casé y me mudé a la casa de mi esposo, mis manos nunca han visitado un salón de manicura ... Incluso el peluquero que ahora veo solo para las vacaciones, porque es (resulta) una pérdida de su dinero, es lo único que me hace extrañar mi vida pasada...
@@OlhaBatchvarov no lo decía por la manicura lo decía por las heridas que se te ven sobre todo en la mano izquierda tienen que trabajar mirando más por tus manos
Круто. а какое дерево вы использовали для заполнения шпаций ? Вы выбрали достаточно легкий путь обработки шпаций бормашинка ))) Меня соседи убъют если я буду часами шуршат бормашинкой ))) Я скелет модели клеил на эпоксидную смолу. Незнаю правльно это или нет но скелет жидковат и сделан из трехслойной фанеры 4 мм. В вашем же случае шпангоуты толстые и похоже сделаны из МДФ
Такой "Жидкий" силовой набор можно вЬІровнять заполнив шпации пенополистиролом (утеплителем) и только в носу и корме деревом липЬІ или того что есть под рукой... Епоксидка ето конечно круто, моделисти используют ее кто строит ходовие модели...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Дякую Вам за пораду. Гарних моделей та натхнення. Буду допроацьовувати свою модель 12 апостолов за допомогую Ваших робіт та тим що Ви ділетесь з нами технологіями та секретами.
www.shipphotographer.com/post/hms-pegasus-1776-in-scale-1-64-issue-1-workshop-on-examples
🔥Here you can find a Step-By-Step Guide based on this model🔥
Thank you for not speeding through everything and for keeping any music you do include to be more relaxed rather than frenetic. Also, I personally enjoy hearing the actual noise of the work being done.
Glad you enjoy it!
The first wooden ship I tried to build was a failure. Seeing a lot of new techniques with your videos. Thanks. Will help with my second attempt this winter.
I will be very happy if these videos help you!
An ABSOLUTE WEALTH of knowledge i have gotten from you in 12min. Brilliant thankyou.
My pleasure!
Hi there - it's awesome to get that look over your shoulder. I've learned quite a bit already. Thanks a lot!
You're very welcome!
I am glad you liked it!
You are an inspiration.
its always a pleasure to watch you build
Thank you!
Yess step by step. Slowly so we can learn please. 🙏
Toujours plaisir de vous voir travailler !!....Des leçons de précision !!
Merci!
Как всегда восхищаюсь Вашей работой. Удачи Вам.
Большое спасибо!
Одновременно и бальзам на душу и прекрасное учебное пособие. Огромнейшая благодарность!!!
Всегда пожалуйста!
Я рада что вам понравилось!
beautiful model and work - tyvm for posting
My pleasure!
спасибо за видео. Как легко и понятно без ненужных обьяснений. Просто МОЛОДЕЦ!
Спасибо!
Я рада что вам понравился мой стиль немого кино!
Great to see this one Olha, I always enjoy watching you building. It is absolutely inspiring to me and I learn every time.
Thank you very much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You did a super good work
Thank you!
Я очень заинтересован в вашем прогрессе в этом проекте, как и все те, которые вы делаете, обещает быть очень интересным, в июне этого года я закончил делать этот комплект Amati, теперь, воспользовавшись тем, что у меня есть вся техническая документация, я начал его снова от нуля до удвоенного размера, масштаб 1:32, и мне будет интересно посмотреть, как учитель, как вы, решает каждый шаг, Я уверен, что мне есть чему поучиться.
Привет из Барселоны!!!
Спасибо!
Я рада что вы нашли тут полезную информацию!
Следующий выпуск запланирован на 17 сентября - "Первый слой обшивки"...
Gracias!
¡Me alegra que hayas encontrado información útil aquí!
El próximo número está programado para el 17 de septiembre: "La primera capa de entarimado" ...
The Pegasus...nice ship to build, one of six in my fleet. I'll be following along too.
Thank you!
Great start on another beautiful ship. 🙂
God Bless. 🙏🏻😇🙏🏻
Thank you kindly!
Thank you for your excellent, and inspiring videos, I sometimes make ships when I lose interest in military modelling, though seldom, I will always enjoy working with wood. Thank you again.
My pleasure!
Fantastic video yet again! Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
Thank you!
О, щось новеньке!.. Дякую! %-)
Заходьте ще!
@@OlhaBatchvarov Обов'язкове!.. ;-)
Probably the best video,of its kind I’ve ever seen. Thanks very much.
Thank you very much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
magnifique travail très soigné.
Merci!
Lavoro da professionisti...👏👏👍
Grazie!
Enjoying all the prepatory phases these kits go through to satisfy the need for order that you find so very beneficial. You orchestrate every element, as a composer may layer a work together symphonically. Its masterful.
Thank you very much!
@@OlhaBatchvarov I have the highest regard for your talents. So thankful having met you here. Have a wonderful evening.
Intrestesting video I am learning with every one thank you
Thank you very much!
Glad you enjoyed it
It is really great that a woman find away to this beautiful hobby.
Thank you!
Nice!
Thanks!
bravo
Thank you!
Super
Thanks
Восхитительно !!!
Спасибо!
Отлично!
Спасибо!
Beautiful work, Olha! Wish I could afford one of these kits.
Thank you!
Maybe one day!
Io uso la garza medica imbevuta di Vinavil acquoso riempitivo del fasciame interno ed una volta asciugato faccio una seconda passata con Vinavil denso che asciugando diventa come roccia e può essere riempito nelle fessure con stucco metallico e carteggiato! Il risultato é sensazionale e perfetto che oltre a coprire tutti i difetti dello scafo rende rigido il fasciame bloccandone il molleggio e facilitandone cosí la Carteggiatura!
Sì, anche questa opzione può essere utile. E tale riempimento trattiene le unghie?
@@OlhaBatchvarovSe Ti riferisci al fasciame rastremato per il raccordo Longitudinale non c'è problema perché lo Stucco Metallico aderisce perfettamente!
Ti faccio i miei complimenti fai dei lavori fantastici sei molto molto brava. Mi sono subito iscritto al canale così prendo idee dai tuoi lavori! Ciao!!!:)
Sono contento che ti sia piaciuto qui!
This is really good. It's a practicum essentially. If you do the rigging step by step just like this video... That would help so many of us.
It's good to see some master-level ship modeling on TH-cam.
Thank you!
This is exactly what I plan to do on this model!
Another adventure that will be fascinating to follow.
I love your choice of piano music.
A scroll saw would also have been useful to cut the filling blocks ;)
Thank you very much!
Yes, this little sloop seems to be a pretty model!
Indeed, one scroll saw can make this piece of work even better and faster. Just because I don't have it I use 2 machines...
P.S. It was a waltz - my favorite style of music!
Basic universal ship modeling techniques visually explained.
Olha, good morning.
Beautiful presentation of a perfect work.
I really liked the softer background music. So let's go to the next chapters!!
Best regards.
Thank you very much!
This is my favorite style of music - I love waltzes. It is a pity that they are a great rarity in the list of music without royalties...
Olha a quick question. I have this kit and am following along with your videos and the instructions, of course. I put in the thick false deck and unfortunately after the glue dried I noticed it was about 1/8 of an inch too high in the stern. Is that going to cause me troubles further down the road or is that false deck just there for a structural stability and I should be fine leaving it as is? I have not yet put in the wood between the frames which is the next step. Appreciate your advice at your convenience. Thanks very much.
If it's not too late, it's better to fix it, otherwise the guns you put on this deck may not hit the ports. If this is possible, you can heat the glue and press it to the end of the deck or peel it off and re-glue it!
Of course if you're not interested in historical accuracy, then you can just cut the ports 1.8 higher and build on...
@@OlhaBatchvarov perfect. Thanks very much. I fixed it!
Did that kit say to fill the spaces with basswood, or is that something you learned to do from your decades of experience building ship models?
This kit does not have a lot of instructions, but there are very detailed drawings, but there are no recommendations either. The manufacturers generally leaves this part to the discretion of the modeler. Although some have already started writing recommendations for filling the spaces.
This is necessary if you want to get perfectly correct lines of the ship...
@@OlhaBatchvarov that’s where the experience comes in. 😁 That’s the kind of details I like to see to incorporate in my future ship modeling. Thanks for the reply. 👍
@@FranksModelAviationWorkshop My pleasure.
Hola Olha , esos tacos de madera los trae el kit ....?????? . Es un placer verte trabajar . Gracias .
¡Muchos gracias!
No, esta madera no está incluida. Usé Boxwood para rellenar los espacios...
Hi, Ohla! I'm curious because it's not shown on the video...did you make any provisions for the bearding line & tapering the bow, stem, or keel area? Or rabbet line? If not, why not? Thanks in advance & the model is beautiful!!!😊
If you do the same way I did, then you shouldn't make rabbet. Only tapering the bow and stern. In general, I did it by sanding both layers of the planking on the stern))) And stem on the bow...
Hello. I have a question whether you will make sails for this ship in addition, I know that they are not in the kit. otherwise you have very dexterous hands.
Great now do a 1/24 scale model 😎
Thank you!
I already have such a scale in my collection! Check out my Pinky Schooner playlist…
Muy buena edición de vídeo y música, el trabajo increíble como siempre 👌
Gracias!
Me alegro de que te guste!
Hi, might you ever consider building the USS Constitution 1:76 scale by Model Expo? It’s my next project and I would love to see how you would approach it!
This is a majestic ship - but I'm still thinking how to finish my 4 current projects)))
Hi Olha ... congrats for the videos ! just a quick question ... why did you not plank the 1st deck BEFORE intalling it ? Will not be more difficult after ? Thanks ... Cheers from Greece !!
Thank you!
Because the manufacturer simplifies the design and ignores the details. I will put waterways and scuppers before planking the deck... That's why I don't use the instructions!
Lovely work.
I have only built Artesania models as they are virtually the only ones we can buy in Australia.
I would like to try other models and was thinking Amati or Occre. Which make would you recommend for quality of wood and parts etc.
Thank you!
This is my second kit from their Victory Models collection made by Amati. I am satisfied with how easy it is to build a ship, as well as the quality of materials and instructions. And in this kit there are also 12 very detailed drawings!
I can't say anything about Occre because I never built their kits!
Спасибо за видео! Какой диаметр отверстия и способ крепления
болтов для подставки? Когда ждать следующие видео ?
Всегда пожалуйста!
Я думаю - смогу делать 1 видео в месяц. По факту то что вЬІ видете тут на видео - ето 5 дней работ включая ожидание вЬІсЬІхания клея. Ето примерно 20% времени от всего потраченного вместе с написанием пошагового пособия и фото/видео редактирования...
that false deck is so clever! it looks like it'd add a lot of stability & stiffness to the skeleton; i wonder why more models don't seem to do it?
This is one of the new developments of the manufacturer, I think they will now apply this technology to all their new projects...
Are you going to rig this ship soon I am interested in seeing the rigging great work keeped it up .John
I plan to rig and additionally sew sails for this ship (I expect to make this project in a year).
I will record the whole process on video and write a detailed blog with explanations to the video. Approximately 1 video per month. It depends not so much on the time spent on construction as on writing and photo&video editing. Based on this model, I will make a step-by-step guide, which I was constantly asked by the channel's subscribers - so it will be a slow process.
P.S. In fact, it took 5 days to build the model that you see in the video, together with waiting for the glue to dry. This is approximately 20% of the time spent on the production of this tutorial.
What kind of glue did you use plz
Usually for skeleton I use Titebond II or any PVA of the D3 standard.
I now live in a place with terribly high humidity in summer and it became necessary...
How did you get started building model ships?
Together with the first magazine Deagostini and their galleon in 2010...
I was told one has to sand off the char from the laser cuts in order to get a good glue joint. I notice you do not sand it off, so I'm going to quit all that sanding.
It depends on what part needs to be glued. Because the laser cuts at an angle, and therefore for ideal gluing, it is sometimes necessary to sand the part (keel, stem, stern post) to an ideal angle of 90 degrees. But if it is only a skeleton, then this error can be neglected...
If you use PVA glue of course!
P.S. Traces of resin from laser cutting can be washed off with hot water or alcohol. If the part is charred, it is a defective kit!..
Love watching you build . One question, why do you pull the the nails after you have glued the deck down . With all respect to the shipyard owner . LOL
Nails interfere with sanding and work further. And also at contact with PVA can rust...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Thanks, want to build one of these . 👍
Olga, good afternoon! I know about the Amati models not by hearsay, they are just terrible quality. To make a normal model, you need to replace a lot of silumin and metal parts with wooden ones, make them from scratch. The assembly of such models turns into an assembly from scratch. But I have only encountered models from their usual line, not Victory models (this is their special series). Please tell me, in your opinion, is it possible to assemble a good quality model from this set, using only what is given in the box?
If you need to have all of the parts made for you, then you should stick with plastic models. This company makes very good models. I have made a few models and have no problems. Yes, I have made my own parts from those not we're not to my satisfaction. Wooden models offer a "Challenge".
I agree - you choose Amati when you want a challenge . But this is exactly something I look for when choosing my next model. Now I work on Endeavour 1934 1:80.
I have done many parts myself. from scratch. changed the design of the mast and boom. made some metal parts from scratch. But isn't it the essence of the modeler's work?
@@jasonguttman548 I am very sorry for you that you have not tried high-quality wooden models, where there is no cheap silumin and there is a good instruction. Very good models from Amati?)) Make plastic models yourself)
Good afternoon!
This is my second box from the "Victory Models" series - and it impressed me. Quite the opposite - here is a bunch of parts made of laser cutting wood. I was told on the forum that not so long ago the skeleton was made of plywood (about 6 years ago), now this part is made of MDF. It is possible that the manufacturer has upgraded this kit, because it looks much better than my previous one. The only silumin detail is a boat - but for me it's not a problem because I always make my own boats.
I have a video unpacking here: th-cam.com/video/1mN5dtO7Kcw/w-d-xo.html
@@jasonguttman548 Yes, it's true! The manufacturers give you a basis on which you can add everything that was historically or according to the drawings missed in the kit to simplify construction for beginners!
@ 5:28 what is the name of that saw?
This is a 4'' Table Saw - Byrnes Model Machines
Link in the card on the top right
Como eu consigo um projeto desses??🛠️
Link direto na descrição abaixo do vídeo!
What an absolute privilege it is to see a master craftsman at work, or for those amongst us that are sensitive to correct use of gender pronouns, craftsperson. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you!
Muy buen trabajo, pero eso es un kit. Me gustaría que hagas uno sin tanta maquinaria y sin disponer de tanta madera usando cosas caseras, cartones o diferentes tipos de tergopoles de alta densidad. Serían más fáciles de fabricar y muchísimo más liviano, aunque se que utilizas madera balsa.
Creo también que el montaje al ser muy exacto no hace falta el uso de pegamento.
Igual, tus trabajos me sirven de guía para hacer uno yo.
¡Gracias!
Esto es tilo. Balsa o poliestireno: no es adecuado para modelos tan grandes, ya que es necesario doblar las tablas en el cuerpo...
@@OlhaBatchvarov gracias por tu respuesta, me sirvió también para saber qué materiales usar. Saludos desde Argentina
Оля, доброго времени суток :)
Сколько времени (чистой работы без перерывов) ушло у вас на этот этап (включая подгонку деревянных вставок)?
Доброго времени суток!
По факту - 5 дней. Так как чисто технологически нужно бЬІло ждать каждЬІй раз пока клей вЬІсохнет перед заполнением шпаций, перед малковкой и финишной шлифовкой! По времени бЬІло все довольно бЬІстро кроме малковки - вот на нее я действительно потратила день между завтраком, ужином и уборкой дома))))
Так вот чем занимаются жёны судомоделистов))))
Жени подводних корабельних археологов)))
To je modelářka..Co?
Šalupa války
Hi Olha... That took alot of time to cut those filler blocks nice work. Maybe a small palm sander might have worked a little faster. Great video as always.
Thank you!
Comunque quel lavoro di riempimento tra ordinata e ordinata non sarebbe necessario se ordinate e chiglia fossero di buon compensato e non di cartone presso fuso.
Non sono d'accordo con te qui. Per un telaio in compensato, è necessario riempire tutti gli spazi in modo che il modello non si attorcigli in futuro, perché il compensato lo fa molto facilmente a causa dei cambiamenti di umidità. E con l'MDF hai subito una cornice perfettamente piana. Pertanto, ho riempito solo gli spazi in cui è difficile piegare le assi...
@@OlhaBatchvarov OK!! Grazie della risposta, buon modellismo , un cordiale saluto e alla prossima.
For a expensive kit it's bad MDF is used, it should be a good ply for the cost
On the contrary - MDF is easy to work with and it does not warp like plywood, which provides a perfectly straight hull...
good afternoon, the dimensions are in centimeters of your super ship. how to communicate with you ?? I am from another country.
Thank you very much!
You can ask anything you are interested in here in the comments! Or use the feedback on my website - the link in the description below the video!
Buen trabajo pero tienes que cuidarte más las manos muchacha
Gracias!
Tienes razón! Desde el momento en que me casé y me mudé a la casa de mi esposo, mis manos nunca han visitado un salón de manicura ... Incluso el peluquero que ahora veo solo para las vacaciones, porque es (resulta) una pérdida de su dinero, es lo único que me hace extrañar mi vida pasada...
@@OlhaBatchvarov no lo decía por la manicura lo decía por las heridas que se te ven sobre todo en la mano izquierda tienen que trabajar mirando más por tus manos
29.01.2023
If you are so good why not try to build the ships from scratch without buying a kit….
I build from scratch too!)))
Here is a separate playlist:
th-cam.com/play/PL2yU7nOqNxV9FyCahCx8j5zCcj2Dtt_N8.html
is not very good your very expirions!!!??
?
Stopped watching never seen the confedirate ship completed unsubscriced as of now stage 3 and never seen a completion
Wooden ships are sometimes built for years - the completion of PEGASUS can be at least a year, or even more...
sorry i understand to keep interrest you cant stay one project ,from Texas and the ship is my history. wont bother you again
@@glendastephenson8054 good
Childish
Круто. а какое дерево вы использовали для заполнения шпаций ? Вы выбрали достаточно легкий путь обработки шпаций бормашинка ))) Меня соседи убъют если я буду часами шуршат бормашинкой )))
Я скелет модели клеил на эпоксидную смолу. Незнаю правльно это или нет но скелет жидковат и сделан из трехслойной фанеры 4 мм. В вашем же случае шпангоуты толстые и похоже сделаны из МДФ
Такой "Жидкий" силовой набор можно вЬІровнять заполнив шпации пенополистиролом (утеплителем) и только в носу и корме деревом липЬІ или того что есть под рукой... Епоксидка ето конечно круто, моделисти используют ее кто строит ходовие модели...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Дякую Вам за пораду. Гарних моделей та натхнення. Буду допроацьовувати свою модель 12 апостолов за допомогую Ваших робіт та тим що Ви ділетесь з нами технологіями та секретами.