@@perpetualmoto the hi/lo trans bikes are a bit more work when changing the front sprocket but are so much more useable on the trails so it's a small price to pay. Thanks Brad.
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO! These tutorials are incredibly valuable! Thanks so much for taking the time to put these together! Cheers and keep the vids coming!
Thanks Brad for watching & commenting, greatly appreciated. I looked on YT & couldn't see anything on this topic, I thought it may be helpful to anyone thinking of doing this job.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 ur reading my mind bc I've been looking for this exact video...I didnt ask you...yet, but I was thinking about it! LOL, thanks again!
@@perpetualmoto the Oz Post CT110's don't have the sub trans but a version sold to farmers called the agricultural or 'ag' did & I know it was popular in the States. Hope the video proves useful.
Thanks John, the vid was done as a demo on an old engine which is in the queue for a rebuild. Changing sprockets is a common job but I couldn't see much online about the hi/lo box version so I thought I'd do a video to help anyone who is scratching their head over the job.
I’ve watched now, your vids on this and your two clutch ones, as I intend doing all the above. Your calm demeanour and videoing prowess are much appreciated and has inspired me to want to tackle my CT110 projects, with confidence, as I intend to do all of what you did in your videos, to my AG model CT110s. Two questions: Are your cir clip pliers Knippex? Secondly: Have you done a video on the teardown and reassembly on the top end of the engine? I’m practically a novice and need to do the rings/valves etc. I believe I have the tools for it… all the gear and no idea, sort of thing. Thanks.
Thanks for your kind words, I make the videos to show how easy it is & I deliberately use a cheap work table etc to show what can be done with basic tools. Yes well spotted, the circlip pliers are Knipex. There are videos showing head removal, cam chain change, valve grinding etc. I'm gradually adding to the videos covering the common jobs that may need doing. As for tools I'd suggest buying (if you don't have them already) a JIS screwdriver & bits, impact driver, clutch holding tool, clutch nut tool, impact gun can get you out of a hole too. I think you'll enjoy working on the engine & it's easier than you think.
Hi, the larger seal is 31x43x8 mm, g/box is 27x37x7 depending upon the model there are changes over the years with top hat spacers check with parts book for your bike. Are you pushing the clip inyo place with a screwdriver, if you try to use circlip pliers for the last few mm the ends of the pliers may stop the circlip clicking into place
I’ve watched this a few times to save myself pulling mine apart to check something. Part diagram lists the neutral switch as being inside the transmission however I see a component and a small hole (in the gasket I believe) That allows a part of the neutral circuit to go through into the casing behind it. Any idea on what that is ? Having trouble with the neutral light and trying to avoid tearing the thing down to it’s bowels to fix it
There's a copper plate on the end of the selector drum, but I think you mean if you look at 5:48 on the video inside the case top left there's a black plastic cigar shaped tube which is the second part of the neutral switch and the wire pushes onto a bullet terminal on its end. On the hi/lo version the wire is behind the small metal plate held in place by a case screw, If you remove the wire before taking the casing off, the black tube stays in the engine. if you leave the wire in place as I did in the video the tube comes out with the case. If you look at some of my other videos you'll see what I mean. Look at 'replacing cam chain pt 1 at 1:30 you'll see it in the case at top right with a white looking 'washer' around the bullet connector in the middle. It sounds more complicated than it is. Hope this helps.
I managed to find a diagram of the left crankcase cover and it does indeed list it. Fingers crossed this has crapped out and not the copper plate on the selector drum
Could be lots of things, need to dismantle & check everything. Could be not fully engaging caused by worn/bent selector or wear/play/damage in the operating lever fork. If fully engaging but jumping out could be damaged/missing spring behind the detent balls on the main selector rod. Could be worn/damaged dogs or gears. When checking the cause should be obvious except for the detent mechanism which is easy to miss. Check the manual operating lever fork in the case bottom held on by small circlip, could be worn/damaged etc. Hope this helps.
You fitted the circling the wrong way round, the rounded edges should be fitted towards the heat with the square edges towards the outside ,so the circuit is more secure, less likely to come of ,other wise a good video
Thanks for your input. Not sure what you mean by 'circlng.' If you mean the splined washer, yes the manual says fit with sharp edge out, in my description I mention this & also that the washer on this engine didn't seem to have a distinct sharp edge. If you mean the circlip, I fitted it as I was taught as an apprentice diesel mech 40 yrs ago.
We can only guess at the reason. Maybe Honda thought the new more powerful 125cc engine didn't need it or that the bike would not be used on steep tracks. I'd say because the engine is shared among many bikes that it was to standardise the engine & keep costs down. I think the new ct125 is way over priced, a Suzuki 250 v strom is $2k cheaper.
At 6:09 in your video you remove the sprocket I don't see the bushings. I have two bushings. One has a big flange that goes against the seal and the other bushing goes on the outside of the sprocket. When I put the crankcase back on. the sprocket is really tight and will not move. This is the second seal I've put in with the same issue.
When I fitted the sprocket it was a snug fit on the shaft the bushings must've been in place. The manuals show the bushings A & B as they call them it sounds like you have them in the correct way. It's difficult to diagnose without seeing it. All you've done is change the seal? Have you put on a new sprocket at the same time? If so measure the width of old & new sprocket with the bushes in place. It must be something simple.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1984/ct110-a-trail-110/transmission-kick-starter-spindle part numbers 10 11 & 21. Make sure you have the bushes the correct way. Do you have the correct oilseal? The seals are different for bikes with & without the aux trans. Check part number 21 in the diagram for the correct oilseal.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 I'm almost 100% sure I have the correct oil seal but it would make sense if it wasn't the correct one because to me it seems to be 1mm too thick. On the parts diagram there are 2 different part numbers for item #21. One has NOK Do you know what that means?
Thanks for watching & commenting. This bike bought in parts has 35,000km on the speedo. My other bike that I rode into the outback has approx 65,000km, it's impossible to be certain as the speedo cable was broken when I bought it.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 That is outstanding , makes me laugh as I was concerned about the mileage on two Trail 90's we have bought . The 77 has approxmately 900 kilometers and the second 78 about 3500 . I am retired and we live in the province of Alberta , Canada . Truely appreciate your videos on these wonderful bikes , we'll keep them running for decades .
@@luckydog7299 the CT110s weren't sold directly to the public, when Aus Post retired their bikes they were sold at auction. Most of the bikes had at least 30,000km, you're lucky to be able to buy bikes with such low mileages, yes they will last for decades. Glad you find the videos useful, truly appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Enjoy your bikes & retirement. I'm sure Alberta is a great place to trail ride!
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 I have a question about the oiling system on a CT 90 that you likey know the answer too , about the clutch center spring and plunger bits . My 90 plunger seems to be hollow ? is this correct ?
@@luckydog7299 yes that's correct, it allows oil to the crankshaft big end. Make sure you fit it with the spring in first. I've a clutch video which shows this in detail. At 5:30 min it shows the oil pass pipe th-cam.com/video/4uc6Qs4FjYI/w-d-xo.html hope this helps
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Here's a link to a parts diagram,
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1984/ct110-a-trail-110/sub-transmission
thanks for adding the link, its about time to for me to replace the chain and sprockets on my CT
@@perpetualmoto the hi/lo trans bikes are a bit more work when changing the front sprocket but are so much more useable on the trails so it's a small price to pay. Thanks Brad.
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO! These tutorials are incredibly valuable! Thanks so much for taking the time to put these together! Cheers and keep the vids coming!
Thanks Brad for watching & commenting, greatly appreciated. I looked on YT & couldn't see anything on this topic, I thought it may be helpful to anyone thinking of doing this job.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 ur reading my mind bc I've been looking for this exact video...I didnt ask you...yet, but I was thinking about it! LOL, thanks again!
@@perpetualmoto the Oz Post CT110's don't have the sub trans but a version sold to farmers called the agricultural or 'ag' did & I know it was popular in the States. Hope the video proves useful.
Great video as usual which I had watched when I first on my one has I was left with a ball bearing I eventually found where it had come from m8😉
haha good one Andy!
Started a mini freakout when you mentioned the two other thrust washers…. My 1973 does not have those whew !
Yes Sean I think there are some subtle differences over the years, it's impossible to cover every one. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Great info as usual! Thanks for this
Thanks John, the vid was done as a demo on an old engine which is in the queue for a rebuild. Changing sprockets is a common job but I couldn't see much online about the hi/lo box version so I thought I'd do a video to help anyone who is scratching their head over the job.
I’ve watched now, your vids on this and your two clutch ones, as I intend doing all the above.
Your calm demeanour and videoing prowess are much appreciated and has inspired me to want to tackle my CT110 projects, with confidence, as I intend to do all of what you did in your videos, to my AG model CT110s.
Two questions: Are your cir clip pliers Knippex?
Secondly: Have you done a video on the teardown and reassembly on the top end of the engine? I’m practically a novice and need to do the rings/valves etc.
I believe I have the tools for it… all the gear and no idea, sort of thing.
Thanks.
Thanks for your kind words, I make the videos to show how easy it is & I deliberately use a cheap work table etc to show what can be done with basic tools. Yes well spotted, the circlip pliers are Knipex. There are videos showing head removal, cam chain change, valve grinding etc. I'm gradually adding to the videos covering the common jobs that may need doing. As for tools I'd suggest buying (if you don't have them already) a JIS screwdriver & bits, impact driver, clutch holding tool, clutch nut tool, impact gun can get you out of a hole too. I think you'll enjoy working on the engine & it's easier than you think.
Struggling to get the circlip back on after replacing the gearbox seal. Is there two different seals? Could you help at all?
Hi, the larger seal is 31x43x8 mm, g/box is 27x37x7 depending upon the model there are changes over the years with top hat spacers check with parts book for your bike. Are you pushing the clip inyo place with a screwdriver, if you try to use circlip pliers for the last few mm the ends of the pliers may stop the circlip clicking into place
I’ve watched this a few times to save myself pulling mine apart to check something. Part diagram lists the neutral switch as being inside the transmission however I see a component and a small hole (in the gasket I believe) That allows a part of the neutral circuit to go through into the casing behind it. Any idea on what that is ? Having trouble with the neutral light and trying to avoid tearing the thing down to it’s bowels to fix it
There's a copper plate on the end of the selector drum, but I think you mean if you look at 5:48 on the video inside the case top left there's a black plastic cigar shaped tube which is the second part of the neutral switch and the wire pushes onto a bullet terminal on its end. On the hi/lo version the wire is behind the small metal plate held in place by a case screw, If you remove the wire before taking the casing off, the black tube stays in the engine. if you leave the wire in place as I did in the video the tube comes out with the case. If you look at some of my other videos you'll see what I mean. Look at 'replacing cam chain pt 1 at 1:30 you'll see it in the case at top right with a white looking 'washer' around the bullet connector in the middle. It sounds more complicated than it is. Hope this helps.
I managed to find a diagram of the left crankcase cover and it does indeed list it. Fingers crossed this has crapped out and not the copper plate on the selector drum
Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful.
my sub transmission pops out of high gear when under full load. Any ideas what might be causing this?
Could be lots of things, need to dismantle & check everything. Could be not fully engaging caused by worn/bent selector or wear/play/damage in the operating lever fork. If fully engaging but jumping out could be damaged/missing spring behind the detent balls on the main selector rod. Could be worn/damaged dogs or gears. When checking the cause should be obvious except for the detent mechanism which is easy to miss. Check the manual operating lever fork in the case bottom held on by small circlip, could be worn/damaged etc. Hope this helps.
Couldn't help but notice that no lube or grease was applied to the gears or shafts inside the sub-transmission. Was lubing performed off-camera?
You're correct. Also gaskets etc, this is an older engine which is to be stripped for rebuild. The video was a demo to show the parts.
Muchas gracias
de nada
You fitted the circling the wrong way round, the rounded edges should be fitted towards the heat with the square edges towards the outside ,so the circuit is more secure, less likely to come of ,other wise a good video
Thanks for your input. Not sure what you mean by 'circlng.' If you mean the splined washer, yes the manual says fit with sharp edge out, in my description I mention this & also that the washer on this engine didn't seem to have a distinct sharp edge. If you mean the circlip, I fitted it as I was taught as an apprentice diesel mech 40 yrs ago.
Why this high low gearbox not available in new ct models ? Any idea ? Thanks👍
We can only guess at the reason. Maybe Honda thought the new more powerful 125cc engine didn't need it or that the bike would not be used on steep tracks. I'd say because the engine is shared among many bikes that it was to standardise the engine & keep costs down. I think the new ct125 is way over priced, a Suzuki 250 v strom is $2k cheaper.
At 6:09 in your video you remove the sprocket I don't see the bushings. I have two bushings. One has a big flange that goes against the seal and the other bushing goes on the outside of the sprocket.
When I put the crankcase back on. the sprocket is really tight and will not move. This is the second seal I've put in with the same issue.
When I fitted the sprocket it was a snug fit on the shaft the bushings must've been in place. The manuals show the bushings A & B as they call them it sounds like you have them in the correct way. It's difficult to diagnose without seeing it. All you've done is change the seal? Have you put on a new sprocket at the same time? If so measure the width of old & new sprocket with the bushes in place. It must be something simple.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1984/ct110-a-trail-110/transmission-kick-starter-spindle part numbers 10 11 & 21. Make sure you have the bushes the correct way. Do you have the correct oilseal? The seals are different for bikes with & without the aux trans. Check part number 21 in the diagram for the correct oilseal.
I have an old CT90 engine with hi/lo I'll have a look tomorrow. My bike in the video is a 1985 Australian 'ag' bike maybe they were modified.
This video from socal Bruce is same as my sprocket, bushes but not the flanged bushes. It may help. th-cam.com/video/wIYiYmidxq0/w-d-xo.html
@@Free_Ranger_CT110
I'm almost 100% sure I have the correct oil seal but it would make sense if it wasn't the correct one because to me it seems to be 1mm too thick.
On the parts diagram there are 2 different part numbers for item #21. One has NOK
Do you know what that means?
Once agin thank you for your videos , may I ask as to how many kilometers you have on your bike ?
Thanks for watching & commenting. This bike bought in parts has 35,000km on the speedo. My other bike that I rode into the outback has approx 65,000km, it's impossible to be certain as the speedo cable was broken when I bought it.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 That is outstanding , makes me laugh as I was concerned about the mileage on two Trail 90's we have bought . The 77 has approxmately 900 kilometers and the second 78 about 3500 . I am retired and we live in the province of Alberta , Canada . Truely appreciate your videos on these wonderful bikes , we'll keep them running for decades .
@@luckydog7299 the CT110s weren't sold directly to the public, when Aus Post retired their bikes they were sold at auction. Most of the bikes had at least 30,000km, you're lucky to be able to buy bikes with such low mileages, yes they will last for decades. Glad you find the videos useful, truly appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Enjoy your bikes & retirement. I'm sure Alberta is a great place to trail ride!
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 I have a question about the oiling system on a CT 90 that you likey know the answer too , about the clutch center spring and plunger bits . My 90 plunger seems to be hollow ? is this correct ?
@@luckydog7299 yes that's correct, it allows oil to the crankshaft big end. Make sure you fit it with the spring in first. I've a clutch video which shows this in detail. At 5:30 min it shows the oil pass pipe th-cam.com/video/4uc6Qs4FjYI/w-d-xo.html hope this helps