Dude, you have no idea how helpful this vid was. I just acquired my first commercial job on 30oz tumblers. I contact Jason, and he was MORE than helpful on the phone about his merch.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thanks... Totally stoked on it. Doing those tumblers and cork coasters. Just waiting on product to arrive from China. I need a rotary to get some training on the do's and don'ts before stock arrives.
I did a step of rotation test and I had me lower them, what would make change spontaneously…and I did a project yesterday with the same design five times and the size of each design came out a little differently… didn’t change any of the settings 🤷♀️
One common stepper motor step angle is 1.8 degrees per step or 200 (WHOLE) steps per motor revolution. It might say on the label/data plate on the motor. But if not, its almost always 1.8 (sometimes 0.9*) If you measure the size of the pulley on the motor itself and get the ratio between the drivewheel and the motor pulley, you can get the exact number of whole steps per revolution of the drivewheel. Then pick the microstep ratio (1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc) the machine is using for the Y-axis (usually set by dip switches on the motor driver) to multiply that figure by to get your actual steps per revolution.
Awesome video. Only issue I have is when it's time to add the circumference to Move section under distance, my distance is greyed out at 10 mm and will not allow me to change it. Did I miss a setting somewhere? The cup rotates less than an inch when I hit go. Around 4:19 in the video. My default setting is 10000 steps.
I have a question on the Mansfield. I love my rotary, however I keep getting a wave in my vertical lines. When I use the rotary that I bought with my OmTech, I don't have the waves. I have been searching for answers and saw a video where there may be a wiring problem with the 80w Black and Red. Any advise?
can you do a new vid on the pro? I have the 80w pro and I can't get the Y axis to function. I can't seem to figure out what I am doing wrong. thanks!!!!!
You didn't mention it in your video, (very helpful video BTW) but I assume you disabled Y axis homing in machine settings. When I do this (and write it to the controller) the Y axis position defaults to 10000mm after power cycling my laser (so I can swap cables). I end up having to use the down arrow button to run the Y axis back to 0 on the display. Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening?
What if I wanted to laser 7 shot glass cups in a row (stacked left to right) on a rotary? Do you have a tool (a rod/stick/other) that you use and recommend for placing in between multiple objects of the same size on a rotary? Thanks. Dianne
I appreciate your tutorial - I'm having such difficulty setting my rotary up. I've set up per this video. Thank You. However, I'm having major difficulty with the actual engrave on LB. My circles are oblong no matter what I do to counter. Thoughts?
Thanks for the great video, it got me up and running on my Mansfield Rotary this morning. Do you have any suggestions in how to fix waves in the engraving? I’m seeing ripples for lack of a better term in my lettering.
In Lightburn go to edit > Machine Settings, look in the X & Y axis settings section at the bottom, and look for the value of 'PWM Rising Edge Valid' on the X axis. Change that - if's it's checked, un-check it, or vice versa. Then, copy the new setting over to the Y axis as well. Try to engrave again and see if that fix your issue Look for "fixing skewed engraving" lightburnsoftware.github.io/NewDocs/ConfiguringRuida.html?fbclid=IwAR1OTF0zCbxmdDpIsOO5OSryHZQcYKB9go85pSdpVHk-d1FgkPGHDFxEuLo
Would be really cool if you could tell us what the controller in that machine is (so that people who make their own machine with GRBL controllers etc can also use your previous answer :)) . Thanks !!
@BeardedBuildsCo there are usually 8 switches on a controller, 1 -3 is supplied power. 4 is usually half/ or full power. And 5 - 8 is the stepper motor setting. There shouldn't be any guess work with it. It's all based on the switches and diagram. Some controllers are built into the laser. If yours is built in, you will need to read your owners manual and find out where it's located inside of the laser. It's usually very similar to an external controller but it's actually inside of the case
old video, but still useful so thank you for posting...I have a question....I'm setting up a Piburn chuck rotary in an Omtech 80w red/black machine and the distance section in the move tab is greyed out. I can adjust speed but not input distance. Any guidance?
@@BeardedBuildsCo Nope, I just tried, distance stays grayed out for current position and user origin.... Nevermind, I just figured it out, I had continuous jog enabled... I'll leave this post up in case anyone else comes along with the same issue, lol
ok i see all this but theres a steo im not getting my head round. How doyounknow where to actually place the rotary machine? im using an omtech 60w and i dont know where to place it at all once plugged in
For that you need to understand your start positions. If you use current position then it shouldn’t matter. You put the rotary in and then move the head to where you want it to start. Use your frame option in lightburn and it will help you visualize it.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Do different size tumblers not make a difference on tumblers? I was going through doing some and found that the steps for a 20oz were different and went too far on a wine tumbler. Had to go through process and re-set the info between wine tumbler and the other.
@@BeardedBuildsCo hmmm. ok. thanks for the quick reply. I'm playing with it now and trying to figure it out. Think it may have to do with finding the "actual" right size/circumference for it to move. I can leave the steps the same and play with that number a little and it makes some difference. its hard with the wine tumblers cause every point of them is a different size. I just did one that was two sided and my measurements were correct in lighburn but I had a 2" gap between them on one side and 3" on the other side. Wouldn't be a big deal if you're only doing one image on a cup
I know it's been a while since you've posted this, but hopefully you can help. So what is the difference between entering your circumference in the Distance dialog and entering that same number in the Y axis field of the Move tab right above it? I ask, because that (Y axis in the Move tab) is what I have been doing and NOTHING I do seems to have any effect on the distance the rotary moves.
I don't know if its helpful much but you could use OBS Studio to screen record your screen making it a little easier to show viewers what you're doing on the computer. It's free and can be used in many creative ways, just a suggestion for the future!
Im new to this and i just setup my rotary. My question is. Once setup if i decide to use an object thats a different diameter and i plug that number into lightburn. Would i also have to resetup the rotation number by repeating these steps or would the initial calibration work for any size object
Thanks for your instructions very helpful. I purchased the same rotary axis. I have experienced some issues when trying to setup different diameter glasses. The rotary stops part way when testing the full rotation (arrow up) after one or two trials. If I test the distance in the reverse direction (arrow down) it completes the full rotation but only once or twice. Do you know why it cannot be tested always in the same direction (arrow up)?
Because you have run out of the theoretical work space. If you look at the controller it will show you the x and in this case specifically the Y coordinates. If it runs too far it hits the “limits” of the workspace.
Okay did some more work and you were spot on about the limit of the work space - that was my issue. Additionally I discovered that my wine glass calculation for full rotation was not coming out to an accurate 360 degree rotation. Turns out I was measuring the widest diameter where I was engraving the glass. The correct place to measure the glass is where the drive wheels contact the glass - when I reduced the diameter to that dimension everything worked out perfectly - no change in the steps/rotation. Many thanks for your expertise on this matter! Cheers!
When I change the steps per rotation in the software it doesn't change anything on the y-axis still spends roughly two full rotations around with the proper circumference calculated. Have changed the steps per rotation from 100 all the way up to 2000 with the same results both times. Any thoughts of what could cause this?
Looks like it's been two years since you made this video. Are you still using this rotary, and if so, how has it held up? have you had to replace the rubber tires at all?
@@BeardedBuildsCo My Mansfield rotary should be here today. Will be running it on an OMtech AF2028-80 Reviewing this video again. When changing tumblers or glassware, what in Lightburn needs to be changed? Will I have to change the steps per rotation every time I change to a different item with a different circumference? And I would imagine I would have to change the circumference value in Lightburn on the move page each time also? Thanks.
Yes it should as long as the plug is the same. Reach out to Jason and he will be able to make sure you have everything you need. www.mansfieldcustoms.com//product-page/co2-laser-rotary-attachment?AffCode=0B4184413A
I just got my rotary set up and cut my first cup. It has 3 separate logos on it. The first one looks fine but the next two (which are circle logos) came out oval… any ideas?
So you measure the diameter and enter it which then tells you the circumference for that diameter of object. THEN, you measure the circumference and get a number different from what the software calculated from your diameter. You use your measured circumference over the calculated circumference to calculate your steps. Is there a reason you didn't use the calculated 314.159 for your circumference? The difference in those two numbers would change your step value by a bit, and if you are doing things that fully wrap the tumbler, that WILL matter.
Is this video still current as far as getting the rotary to work? i followed this to the T and does nothing as shown in this video..... i see other videos that seem to overcomplicate it compared to what Brandt is showing in this video... someone please help!!???
@@BeardedBuildsCo thanks for the response! I posted on omtech group (anthony grindmode) if you wouldnt mind checking it out when you get a sec? thanks Brandt.....I cant figure this out
@@gracelarrea6477 that would usually be due to your steps per rotation being too low. Have you used a flexible table measure and measure to see exactly how far off it is?
@@BeardedBuildsCo 2042 - Regardless of steps - I've "shrunk" my file by 4 x and it seems to work when "Framing" but then when I Send file to machine, it doesn't spin the rotary When I complete your setup I have to put in a LOWER number in the "DISTANCE" area. You state to measure the cup and my cup measures 285mm around. I place that in the spot and it goes around about 4 times. If I put in 76 - it's almost perfect. not making sense. I'm sure it's a very simple setting once I figure it out. for the first time.
Nope. Still very jagged results. Vibrating not as bad but still vibrating. I can get it to rotate circumference and land back on mark with new steps per rotation
When I change the steps per rotation I can’t get it low enough to not pass my beginning marker?!? I am working in inches and 100 as low as I can set it in lightburn and it still goes past my starting point. Any suggestions?!
Steps per rotation are not in mm or in. It is steps. Start some were around 4000 and make sure you are using the right distance (your object circumference) in your move panel.
Dude, you have no idea how helpful this vid was. I just acquired my first commercial job on 30oz tumblers. I contact Jason, and he was MORE than helpful on the phone about his merch.
Awesome I’m glad it was helpful! Good luck on the gig!
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thanks... Totally stoked on it. Doing those tumblers and cork coasters. Just waiting on product to arrive from China. I need a rotary to get some training on the do's and don'ts before stock arrives.
I was struggling with a piece of junk Chinese rotary. Broke down and bought that Mansfield rig. Very happy. Thanks man.
By far the easiest to follow tutorial I have watched. I found my steps per rotation in under 2 minutes of testing. Liked and subscribed!
I’m glad it helped!
Yes, Squished
Then your steps per rotation are off. You will need to increase them.
I did a step of rotation test and I had me lower them, what would make change spontaneously…and I did a project yesterday with the same design five times and the size of each design came out a little differently… didn’t change any of the settings 🤷♀️
@@gracelarrea6477 what rotary are you using? Is the cup getting pinched at all as it is trying to rotate?
Great video and timely. Been trying to set mine up and your video is the first one to explain it for novices. Thanks
I've been banging my head against a wall - this was really helpful. Thank you!
One common stepper motor step angle is 1.8 degrees per step or 200 (WHOLE) steps per motor revolution. It might say on the label/data plate on the motor. But if not, its almost always 1.8 (sometimes 0.9*) If you measure the size of the pulley on the motor itself and get the ratio between the drivewheel and the motor pulley, you can get the exact number of whole steps per revolution of the drivewheel. Then pick the microstep ratio (1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc) the machine is using for the Y-axis (usually set by dip switches on the motor driver) to multiply that figure by to get your actual steps per revolution.
Thanks for the video, clear and simple. Much appreciated.
Thanks for this video. Just got a rotary for my laser so I'm getting that setup today.
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Great video!!! Easy to follow along! Thank you for previous advice, everything has been accurate and very helpful!
Great Video for us Chinese Laser owners. Thanks.
Thank you!
Really appreciate your content, it has helped me shorten the learning curve tremendously!
Glad the content helps!
Thanks man! looking every where for this info!
The BEST explanation ever! Love the videos. Thank you so much!!!
You’re welcome!
Great video, got me set up, thank you so much!
Finally a decent answer - thank you so much!
You’re welcome!
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Awesome video. Only issue I have is when it's time to add the circumference to Move section under distance, my distance is greyed out at 10 mm and will not allow me to change it. Did I miss a setting somewhere? The cup rotates less than an inch when I hit go. Around 4:19 in the video. My default setting is 10000 steps.
Thank you so so so much for this great tutorial
You’re welcome!
Some stepper drivers are sensitive to power disconnects when the machine is on. Never unplug a stepper when the machine is powered on.
Great video. Very simple explanation.
Thank you!
I have a question on the Mansfield. I love my rotary, however I keep getting a wave in my vertical lines. When I use the rotary that I bought with my OmTech, I don't have the waves. I have been searching for answers and saw a video where there may be a wiring problem with the 80w Black and Red. Any advise?
Thank you for your video!
You’re welcome!
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
Great video. Have you used the AF2440 with the Mansfield? I'm trying to figure out the steps for a full turn.
can you do a new vid on the pro? I have the 80w pro and I can't get the Y axis to function. I can't seem to figure out what I am doing wrong. thanks!!!!!
Is their a setting for the rotary in lightburn or the ruida controller that will stop the stepper motor from overheating while using the rotary?
You didn't mention it in your video, (very helpful video BTW) but I assume you disabled Y axis homing in machine settings. When I do this (and write it to the controller) the Y axis position defaults to 10000mm after power cycling my laser (so I can swap cables). I end up having to use the down arrow button to run the Y axis back to 0 on the display. Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening?
Do you still like your rotery machine after the past year is it still on your radar as a good machine keep the videos coming 2 thumbs up.
Yes this is still the rotary that I recommend
www.mansfieldcustoms.com//product-page/co2-laser-rotary-attachment?AffCode=0B4184413A
How do you endure the rotary is parallel with the gantry? Great video!
For that rotary you dont have to flip the dip switches on the y driver to match current of the rotary motor?
I just received my rotary just like this one. How do i get the bed to lower more so I can use it? I have about 4 to 5 inches of room to go lower.
What if I wanted to laser 7 shot glass cups in a row (stacked left to right) on a rotary? Do you have a tool (a rod/stick/other) that you use and recommend for placing in between multiple objects of the same size on a rotary? Thanks. Dianne
I have a Omtech 60 watt auto focus. Do you know if that rotary will work in my machine bed or will I have to remove the honeycomb. Thanks
Yes it will work.
LB documentation says you have to enter the steps per rotation for one full rotation of your roller and not of your object. So what to do?
I appreciate your tutorial - I'm having such difficulty setting my rotary up. I've set up per this video. Thank You. However, I'm having major difficulty with the actual engrave on LB. My circles are oblong no matter what I do to counter. Thoughts?
I always stretch any circular items 9-10% along the width of the design.
Thanks for the great video, it got me up and running on my Mansfield Rotary this morning. Do you have any suggestions in how to fix waves in the engraving? I’m seeing ripples for lack of a better term in my lettering.
In Lightburn go to edit > Machine Settings, look in the X & Y axis settings section at the bottom, and look for the value of 'PWM Rising Edge Valid' on the X axis.
Change that - if's it's checked, un-check it, or vice versa. Then, copy the new setting over to the Y axis as well.
Try to engrave again and see if that fix your issue
Look for "fixing skewed engraving"
lightburnsoftware.github.io/NewDocs/ConfiguringRuida.html?fbclid=IwAR1OTF0zCbxmdDpIsOO5OSryHZQcYKB9go85pSdpVHk-d1FgkPGHDFxEuLo
Would be really cool if you could tell us what the controller in that machine is (so that people who make their own machine with GRBL controllers etc can also use your previous answer :)) . Thanks !!
Not sure what difference the controller makes but this is a ruida controller.
@BeardedBuildsCo there are usually 8 switches on a controller, 1 -3 is supplied power. 4 is usually half/ or full power. And 5 - 8 is the stepper motor setting. There shouldn't be any guess work with it. It's all based on the switches and diagram. Some controllers are built into the laser. If yours is built in, you will need to read your owners manual and find out where it's located inside of the laser. It's usually very similar to an external controller but it's actually inside of the case
Go tell someone that has never worked with steppers that and see what kind of look you get from them…
Thanks for this info....!
Sure thing!
Can you turn the rotary so that an object has room to fit through the pass-through doors?
Do the steps have to be determined anew for each job or just once? Do I have to determine the circumfence for each part and enter it where?
On a roller rotary once you have configured the steps that it. The roller does not need the circumference or diameter.
@@BeardedBuildsCo thank you very much
So I have a problem with my red dot pointer, the bead is scattered
old video, but still useful so thank you for posting...I have a question....I'm setting up a Piburn chuck rotary in an Omtech 80w red/black machine and the distance section in the move tab is greyed out. I can adjust speed but not input distance. Any guidance?
You likely need to change your start from position to current position or user origin. Then that field should open up. Let me know
@@BeardedBuildsCo Nope, I just tried, distance stays grayed out for current position and user origin.... Nevermind, I just figured it out, I had continuous jog enabled... I'll leave this post up in case anyone else comes along with the same issue, lol
@johndeaux9987 yep, that will do it
Does this need redone every time you do a different size cup?
No
How is the rotary holding up? ordering omtech 80 and looking at the different options for rotaries.
Still running tumblers today!
How to set it up for gbrl?
Im using atomstack by the way?
ok i see all this but theres a steo im not getting my head round. How doyounknow where to actually place the rotary machine? im using an omtech 60w and i dont know where to place it at all once plugged in
For that you need to understand your start positions. If you use current position then it shouldn’t matter. You put the rotary in and then move the head to where you want it to start. Use your frame option in lightburn and it will help you visualize it.
I just ordered an omtech 50 W laser Do you know if I order a 2 phase or a 3 phase for the Mansfield rotary.thank you in advance.
2 phase is what you need. Please use my affiliate link.
So when I change to different size cups do I need to change any of the setting in light burn. Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Nope, with the 4 wheel rotary you don’t have to make any changes once you have the steps calibrated.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Do different size tumblers not make a difference on tumblers? I was going through doing some and found that the steps for a 20oz were different and went too far on a wine tumbler. Had to go through process and re-set the info between wine tumbler and the other.
I use the same steps on a 20oz yeti and a 64oz growler yesterday.
@@BeardedBuildsCo hmmm. ok. thanks for the quick reply. I'm playing with it now and trying to figure it out. Think it may have to do with finding the "actual" right size/circumference for it to move. I can leave the steps the same and play with that number a little and it makes some difference. its hard with the wine tumblers cause every point of them is a different size.
I just did one that was two sided and my measurements were correct in lighburn but I had a 2" gap between them on one side and 3" on the other side. Wouldn't be a big deal if you're only doing one image on a cup
I know it's been a while since you've posted this, but hopefully you can help. So what is the difference between entering your circumference in the Distance dialog and entering that same number in the Y axis field of the Move tab right above it? I ask, because that (Y axis in the Move tab) is what I have been doing and NOTHING I do seems to have any effect on the distance the rotary moves.
Thank You!!
You’re welcome!
I don't know if its helpful much but you could use OBS Studio to screen record your screen making it a little easier to show viewers what you're doing on the computer. It's free and can be used in many creative ways, just a suggestion for the future!
I actually use OBS now! Thank you for watching and the tips!
Im new to this and i just setup my rotary. My question is. Once setup if i decide to use an object thats a different diameter and i plug that number into lightburn. Would i also have to resetup the rotation number by repeating these steps or would the initial calibration work for any size object
On a roller/ 4 wheel rotary the object diameter does not matter. You also do not have to change the steps.
Thanks for your instructions very helpful.
I purchased the same rotary axis. I have experienced some issues when trying to setup different diameter glasses. The rotary stops part way when testing the full rotation (arrow up) after one or two trials. If I test the distance in the reverse direction (arrow down) it completes the full rotation but only once or twice. Do you know why it cannot be tested always in the same direction (arrow up)?
Because you have run out of the theoretical work space. If you look at the controller it will show you the x and in this case specifically the Y coordinates. If it runs too far it hits the “limits” of the workspace.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thank you for your reply - Is there a way to ignore these limits or do I just have to keep going up and down on repeat rotations?
Okay did some more work and you were spot on about the limit of the work space - that was my issue. Additionally I discovered that my wine glass calculation for full rotation was not coming out to an accurate 360 degree rotation. Turns out I was measuring the widest diameter where I was engraving the glass. The correct place to measure the glass is where the drive wheels contact the glass - when I reduced the diameter to that dimension everything worked out perfectly - no change in the steps/rotation. Many thanks for your expertise on this matter!
Cheers!
Perfect! You are correct in your discoveries. I’m glad you got it dialed in!
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
One final question - how do you slow down the Y axis so the rotary does not spin too fast for the rapid movements?
Where did you get the 317 distance from? Thanks
This is the measurement of the circumference of my tumbler. Measure your tumbler and use that.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thanks
When I change the steps per rotation in the software it doesn't change anything on the y-axis still spends roughly two full rotations around with the proper circumference calculated. Have changed the steps per rotation from 100 all the way up to 2000 with the same results both times. Any thoughts of what could cause this?
You likely need to be 5000+
I'll give it a try, thanks
is it safe to assume then every time I change out the object to be engraved ill have to adjust the steps per rotation?
I don’t change anything when I switch between different sized mugs other than the focus.
What do you do if your rotary will only spin half way?
You likely need to increase your steps per rotation drastically.
Looks like it's been two years since you made this video. Are you still using this rotary, and if so, how has it held up? have you had to replace the rubber tires at all?
Still running strong through thousands of tumblers.
@BeardedBuildsCo Good to hear. Getting ready to pull the trigger one I think.
@@BeardedBuildsCo My Mansfield rotary should be here today. Will be running it on an OMtech AF2028-80 Reviewing this video again. When changing tumblers or glassware, what in Lightburn needs to be changed? Will I have to change the steps per rotation every time I change to a different item with a different circumference? And I would imagine I would have to change the circumference value in Lightburn on the move page each time also? Thanks.
Did you have an issue with the bolt head below the main motor not having clearance to thread in.
I’m not sure what you comment is in reference to.
Will this rotary work on my Chinese laser?
Yes it should as long as the plug is the same. Reach out to Jason and he will be able to make sure you have everything you need.
www.mansfieldcustoms.com//product-page/co2-laser-rotary-attachment?AffCode=0B4184413A
How did you move the laser head down the y-axis after swapping in the rotary?
You can move the gantry by hand if you need to. I usually try to get it into position before I disconnect the Yaxis.
My cup won’t spin when I hit the up arrows after entering my values. Any clue what I did wrong?
You probably ran out of theoretical space. Check the coordinates of the y axis on your controller.
I just got my rotary set up and cut my first cup. It has 3 separate logos on it. The first one looks fine but the next two (which are circle logos) came out oval… any ideas?
I stretch all of my circle logos 9% width wise to compensate for this visual mind game.
@@BeardedBuildsCo I was concerned about slipping. Any other tips like that? I am so happy I found your tinfoil and tape trick.
is your rotary 2 or 3 face motor?
2 phase for omtech machines
My Lightburn window does not have that option that you clicked to rotate cup. How do I get it.
There are tabs and you need to click the move tab. If it is not there at the top go to windows and find it in the list and select it.
I have a K40, i've tried to change the MM per rotation and it stops short no matter how many times i raise my MM per rotation. Any ideas?
Change the steps per rotation - 2750 steps per rotation / roller diamet 20mm / object 100mm / circum 314mm works for me with a k40
I have the same version lighburn but it doesnt give me the rotary setup option
Lightburn wont show that with certain controllers, my Trotec controller is one..it has to be set up and enabled in the controller itself.
So you measure the diameter and enter it which then tells you the circumference for that diameter of object. THEN, you measure the circumference and get a number different from what the software calculated from your diameter. You use your measured circumference over the calculated circumference to calculate your steps. Is there a reason you didn't use the calculated 314.159 for your circumference? The difference in those two numbers would change your step value by a bit, and if you are doing things that fully wrap the tumbler, that WILL matter.
This is a classic do what I said not what I did. The videos were spliced together and had two different values.
How do I find the diameter for the 4 wheel rotary from omtech?
Use a set of calipers and measure the drive wheels.
Is this video still current as far as getting the rotary to work? i followed this to the T and does nothing as shown in this video..... i see other videos that seem to overcomplicate it compared to what Brandt is showing in this video... someone please help!!???
Hard to help without knowing what the problem is.
@@BeardedBuildsCo thanks for the response! I posted on omtech group (anthony grindmode) if you wouldnt mind checking it out when you get a sec? thanks Brandt.....I cant figure this out
My engraving smaller coming out smaller then my design, an inch…what could be the problem??
Are they squished?
Yes
@@gracelarrea6477 that would usually be due to your steps per rotation being too low. Have you used a flexible table measure and measure to see exactly how far off it is?
You dont have to measure the circumfrence, if you enter the diameter, lightburn tells you.
I'm having issues with my "Steps per rotation" - no matter what number is in that location - the tumbler spins 4 complete cycles
How high are your steps?
@@BeardedBuildsCo 2042 - Regardless of steps - I've "shrunk" my file by 4 x and it seems to work when "Framing" but then when I Send file to machine, it doesn't spin the rotary
When I complete your setup I have to put in a LOWER number in the "DISTANCE" area.
You state to measure the cup and my cup measures 285mm around. I place that in the spot and it goes around about 4 times. If I put in 76 - it's almost perfect.
not making sense. I'm sure it's a very simple setting once I figure it out. for the first time.
@@RickSwartwood okay so do you have the steps figured out? Are you using a Mac?
@@RickSwartwood did you ever figure this out? I'm going thru the same thing.... nothing makes sense
anyone else have their rotary give them a nasty vibration? I cant find any info on that
This is usually because the steps are way off.
Thank you for the response. Yes I think I'm discovering that.. why even put the 4100 on there??
Nope. Still very jagged results. Vibrating not as bad but still vibrating. I can get it to rotate circumference and land back on mark with new steps per rotation
Does this need redone every time you do a different size cup?
When I change the steps per rotation I can’t get it low enough to not pass my beginning marker?!? I am working in inches and 100 as low as I can set it in lightburn and it still goes past my starting point. Any suggestions?!
Steps per rotation are not in mm or in. It is steps. Start some were around 4000 and make sure you are using the right distance (your object circumference) in your move panel.