Perfect! I've just heard the term "Vapour blasting" & wanted to know what it was all about. The description of your home built machine explained it perfectly! I've just thought of a thousand things I could get started on already! 😆 Cheers mate!
I sub'd just because how professional you made a HF sand blasting cabinet look as a vapor blaster using plumbing fittings. I was waiting on you to start showing some crazy pex manifold... Nicely done project
If you go back to your Harbor Freight store equivalent, get an auxiliary air tank to put in-line from the compressor tank. Then buy a regulator to put on the aux tank, or more specifically the line between the aux tank and the air tool. This not only increases air capacity (which increases CFM by default) but it allows you to: 1. Control the pressure closer to the tool. 2. Set the compressor output regulator at the aux tank's maximum PSI, which effectively makes the aux tank part of the compressor tank, and should cycle the compressor less often. 3. Move the loud-*** compressor as far away as you want, because it will essentially be running headless once you get the system up and running. Just keep the aux tank and/or its regulator near the work space. 4. Gives a purpose for that one 50ft super-stiff air hose that you never use because it's a pain to drag around. Works great between the compressor and aux tank. I do this with a 6-gallon (loud AF) oil-less pancake compressor and an 11-gallon aux tank when I'm using a flooring nailer or framing nailer. It cycles the compressor about half as much in my use-case. Best of all, I don't have to listen to it, but I can still adjust the pressure without having to walk too far.
Pro-tip: Make a small (like 1 foot long) air hose with open-male connectors on each end. Then when you put the Tee on the aux tank, you can use 2 self-sealing female connectors. Use the small M-to-M hose between the hose coming from the compressor and the aux tank. That way you can isolate either the compressor or the aux tank without losing the built up pressure, just take out the short hose. Makes draining the system properly much easier too. Alternatively you could put a ball valve on the compressor side of the Tee, then use a male connector on the compressor side of that. The small M-M hose is a lot cheaper though.
I've run a similar setup since the mid 2000s with 2 11gal tanks and a old craftsman. 1 can be disconnected if I need air in the yard for filling tires. The main thing I'll say is watch your heat doing this and tank moisture. Filling a spare tank up to around 70-90 the compressor is usually ok, but if you're trying to put in 100-120 the compressor can struggle to keep that pressure up for sustained periods like running a air chisel or impact. So you will have to watch the heat of the compressor motor and also you will need to drain the tanks cause of moisture. If you do that and keep up on the oil changes it'll last and generally be fine for 95% of what you need to do. Just don't go trying to run a service shop like that lol
I’ve watched most videos and I think this is probably the best one. A lot of videos of people that are really proud of what they built I bet this one will probably work just as good. The only thing I would do is add a wiper.
Just a tip for those building one of these. Use Rain-X or a good wax to coat the glass you look through or even the inside of the cabinet. The water will run right off and make it easier to see for extended blasting.
As someone who does refurbishd wheels, mostly alloy I get the same finish with old garnet or glass. Then flat the finish with 240 dry rub then 400 then polish. I have a sandblast cabinet and compressor very similar but one step up with both. Though you can sand that casting without cleaning at all. I use the sandblast to clean off paint, renmants of brake grime and to clean off corrosion. Then use sandpaper, bad corrosin, s]=dissimialr materials like lead wheel weight has to be sanded out, normally is use 180 but sometimes 80 grit for the worst bits.
For components like wheels and engine casings I think the sandblaster is sufficient. The finish is not as good though (side by side comparison in real life shows a big difference) for intricate parts that you can't sand afterwards like carbs and the like, I think this conversion is the way to go.
You could setup a blow gun inside and use it to clear off the window, it could also be useful if you want to partially dry a part to get a better look at the finish.
amazing finish on that cover. I would never have believed you could achieve that with such a simple setup....awesome. I'm going to have to build one myself this Winter as my bike has sat in a damp leaky garage for the past 5 years and the aluminium is in a terrible state. Another excellent quality video .....now where are all those 'build your own' diy vapour blaster cabinet videos
@@2wheelworkshop I was responding to the other query here. I know you probably did as am I currently. I liked your Glass bead effect one but was wondering if you have tried a high temp water combo? Like 150*F + up to 25* more....
I only ever used the combo in the video. The pump died a while back so it is a sand blaster again now. I have a new pump but I am thinking about making a new improved cabinet for vapour.
Just to clear up a few misconceptions regarding vapor blasting. There is no vapor. It is merely a slurry of water and glass beads. It is not designed or intended to clean dirty parts which should first be done with a dry media blaster. The glass beads bounce off the surface and do not etch, hence the term "honing" is often referred to this process which is sometimes used in the aero industry. The working pressure should be below 50 lbs or breakage and short bead life will happen. The beads are bounced off the metal surface and leave a smooth surface. You can place machined parts with no risk to surfaces. You will get faster results with larger air and material lines. Add a valve to the output of the "agitation port to control the "agitation " force. This process is cleaner than mediablasting, leaving no impurities in the metal like dryblasting. Any part that is to be powder-coated or plated/anodized should be given a rinse of distilled water.
We call it Wet Blasting in the US. Love your Aussie (?) accent. What a nice setup. From what I have read, the minimum size compressor has to deliver 8 CFM for any kind of blasting. This is the major cost and drawback for weight, noise, price. The other issues I have not worked out yet is how do you recycle the used media? Is it enough to drain the water, rinse, drain again? The finish with vapor blasting is much smoother than dry sand blasting. Thanks for a great demo!
You are absolutely right about the compressor. The blaster set up is cheap by comparison. I change the water as needed when it gets dirty but the media lasts a long time and you don't need much.
If you're looking for a beautiful finish on aluminum just use crushed walnut shells at a medium pressure. Leaves a lovely smooth satin finish. No muss no fuss and best of all no water.
I really need to make one of these but I travel so much that I dont have anywhere to put one and my dads shop is the only place for one and its already full to the brim. Y'all have got the most evil sounding birds in NZ/AUS. I have never got used to them lol.
They are great to have but together with the compressor, they take up a lot of space. The bloody Cockatoo's all hang around a tree over my back fence and make a huge racket every time I want to film.😡
Great video mate - thanks for sharing. Clear and succinct. What happens to the debris from all the parts you clean? How is that filtered out / removed?
Thanks - You should pitch a program for one of the SKY channels. Let's not forget, American Pickers started just by filming what they did and then pitching at a TV channel. DO IT, what have you got to lose.
Thank you. That is probably the most encouraging comment any of my videos has ever received. I don't know if I have the drive to try and start a show. I'm still struggling to get videos out on TH-cam on a consistent basis.
I can't remember whatever grit of glass bead I have (fine). I threw away the bag ages ago. I used mine to blast all the internals of my xs650 engine, and it was fine. Just had to make sure all the beads were washed out prior to rebuilding.
I enjoyed this, but one tiny suggestiong might've been 15 seconds explaining why a vapor blaster vs sandblasting. But I enjoyed it, and can see the utility of it. liked and sub'd.
Great video. The waste water and debris. Does it just drain into the bin below or is the bin sealed to stop spills. How about air pressure? And where do you get the glass bead. Cheers bud. Jon.
Thought about converting to vapour blasting but decided against it mainly because I do OHV cylinder heads and using even glass beads its a major pain as you spend about 30 minutes cleaning the head and another 5 hours going over and over and over again to make sure no glass beads debri is anywhere left in the head on assembly.. switched over to using soda on aluminum heads and that takes more time cleaning and almost no time after cleaning as the soda cannot damage jack shit if you miss anything on assembly. and if you used baking soda in a vapor blaster it would disappear as soon as you pour it in .. so using ultrasonic cleaning followed up with cosmetic soda blasting to make heads look like new and not have to worry about left over cleaning media ... removing core plugs in cylinder heads are simply a massive pain with a pucker factor of ten with each and every one if you use glass beads/slurry and remove all the plugs to run cleaning brush through all the oil galleys.. soda blasting and ultrasonics remove all the risk.. also seen thousand dollar ultrasonic machines still leave residue after cleaning hence the soda blasting and the use of a $200 ultrasonic cleaner
I'm thinking the same thing. The pump died recently and it's a sand blaster again now. I recently did a quick video on building a DIY metering valve which was a huge improvement on the stock syphon tube.
Thanks @@2wheelworkshop I am planning an upcoming build that has a lot of old cast alloy parts so I will definitely have to make one of these. as soon as I upgrade my compressor :(
Awesome video mate! Can you tell me how much in total the blast cabinet modifications cost you, including the pump, hoses, nozzle, bucket and fittings? Cheers!
Hi, What would be your recommendations be or thoughts? Would there be any problem’s of getting ALL the dirt and debris “glass bead” out of the engine block and all components after the blasting? Some engine builder’s don’t like any blasting at all, they say, there’s a chance that there’s debris form the cleaning process, even though we believe it’s clean out, that could ruin the finish build? Thank you for the info in your video.
I have built an almost identical setup as this cant get it to mix slurry to a near 50/50 mix,more like 20/80, the smaller number being media, what ratio of water to media do you use ? Thanks
At a guess I would say Max 10/90 media/water. As it swirls, the media concentrates in the middle near the pick-up. The pump I have is quite powerful and it gets a really good swirl going.
I think doing open air vapour blasting would chew up a lot of blasting media and become quite expensive. I have blasted all the cexternal components to 2 XS650 engines in my set-up without any problem. I wouldn't try doing a complete engine even if I could fit it into blaster. That stuff will make it's way into a lot of places you don't want it.
I’ve heard the term vapor blasting but never witnessed it in action until today. Thanks for sharing. But of course now my mind is thinking about new questions that I did not know I had until I saw your video, lol isn’t that the way it normally works? Not trying to be negative just wondering what the differences are between glass beads dry versus wet? Again thanks for sharing, and your system appears to really do a nice job
Thanks mate. I have found that the vapour blaster gets a much nicer and more consistent finish than I am able to achieve with plain bead blasting. Lots of people use them for delicate aluminium parts like carburettors where bead blasting would be too abrasive.
Have used bead blasters many many times over the years so know what they are good and bad at, dust/beads around the unit and in the workplace would have to be the biggest downside. Is this the reason reason for mixing with water? Or is there something else I’m not thinking of? Cheers.
It is a bit more gentle than the same bead would be dry and the finish is a lot nicer. People use them on carbs pretty extensively. Unfortunately this particular setup doesn't really cut down the mess at all. It's's just a wet mess that dries before it causes a slip hazard🤣
I'm pretty happy with it. There are better compressors out there but for the money I definitely can't complain. It is a lot less noisy than the cheap Chinese 1hp compressor I had before.
I had had the agitation jet side open (1/2" BSP T) from memory and the other side into a barb for the feed hose. Its not critical, just play around with outlet sizes on the agitation jet so that it stirs enough to mix the slurry but not so much that it spills everywhere.
It died after about a year of pretty heavy use. It was a cheap chinese unit though, so I kinda expected that. The cabinet is a sand blaster at the moment but I have a new pump and I am considering building a stainless vapour cabinet.
@@2wheelworkshop Always nice to have a project or twelve to work on ;) Good luck and hope to see more content. I'm a fab guy and I'm interested in making a highly efficient, compact and durable unit. Looking into the cost/benefit ratio of high end, high dollar screw type pumps. My reasoning is that's the weak link. It's directly responsible for the consistency of the finish, correct? Along with nozzle wear I would also assume. Anyway, I could ramble on about ideas and such. Be well!!
You are correct that the pump is the weak link (as far as longevity is concerned) but as far as the consistency goes, as long as it is powerful enough to mix the slurry and get it to the gun it's fine. Once the air is flowing it syphons really well.
Just had a look and it doesn't look like they make the exact model that I have any more. Here is a link to something similar (same motor and pump with a slightly smaller tank)www.bluedm.com.au/piston-air-compressor-electric-3hp-18-cfm-100l-125-psi/
I've got same cabinet... I've kept it as dry blast. But I picked up one of the hafco big units with a front door access. If I bought it new at machinery house it would've cost me near on $2500. But found one locally second hand for $850 so that has been now converted to a wetblast/vapor blast cabinet. Seriously need to upgrade my compressor tho...
@@2wheelworkshop yeah mate I rebuilding 3 Goldwings. Same thing with the wheels. I could do them but was pain in the arse. My primary reason for this big cabinet. I can fit whole engine in it. Shame can't attach pics I'd show you what I've done...
@@2wheelworkshop I was looking at same one you have but blue Diamond don't list it at present.. Just saw it a couple days ago too.. BUT 🤔😊 they have the 10hp at $1800...which will mean I have to have 3 phase installed... Hmmm. They also advertised a 4hp as well... Which is that upper end of single phase
@@2wheelworkshop yeah... It sure is.. Especially here in WA.... The mining state... Just bang on an extra zero.... and WA... WAIT AWHILE! I know someone not far away from me that has the vixen unit.... His compressor shit itself and rkns he will spend 15k on one... And he isn't even a business 🙁 I'm in a residential area so petrol/diesel option is prob gonna bit bit more noisier than I'd like. I've been scouring auctions as well...
@@2wheelworkshop well its better than going through the trouble of installing a wiper. But you could also try car wax or better yet use ceramic coating. Just throwing out ideas my friend.
Bead blasting is just using glass bead in a sand blaster. I didn't make up the name but if you think about it, 100psi through a 3mm jet behind a stream of water will turn it to vapour. Wouldn't get very far cleaning parts without the glass bead though.
Something no one talks is the biggest issue with dry blasting is these old bikes have asbestos gaskets. Vapour blasting is the only safe way to remove it.
@@2wheelworkshop amazing hey, that blows me away actually. It truely is something no one even mentions. This video alone has 100k views, over 140 comments and I'm the first to mention it. I wasnt impressed when I found out that after the fact. I soda blasted my head of a old honda with the barrel blaster, literally everything you read on the internet says that baking soda is a safe blast media... not knowing about the gaskets, I remember thinking clear as day, "does anyone really know what happens if you get a lung full of baking soda" so I wore a mask anyway... and kept up that habbit even with the cabinet I'd always wear a respirator. I assume all gaskets are made of the stuff now. And pleae don't freak out like I did, if you were born in one of the worlds finest and most advanced medical facilitys, an Australian hospital...you've been exposed.
That is definitely something I will keep in mind in future. I'm not overly concerned about the exposure in the hospital though. They were still building with it when I was a young kid.
@@2wheelworkshop yeah I mean we live in Australia, the hospital thing is just a ironic fact that is fun to tell people. Its more common in the air than people think, which is a good thing I suppose
Thanks mate. If you exceed the compressors recommended duty cycle you run the risk of overheating and potentially damaging it. I can't say that I haven't gotten impatient and run this compressor for longer with no damage but I try to stick to the 6 on 4 off.
A 80 gallon with 17scfm or higher is what you are shooting for in air compressor for ANY type of blaster, they consume a lot of air.. I had a 60 gallon 5 hp at my last shop and it managed but i did have to give it breaks every 15minutes. Now have a 80 gallon twin 18 scfm which works better on my harbor freight vapor blaster that i plumbed with 5/8" hoses.
If I was you I’d look at using an old compressor tank as a secondary supply tank you’d have twice the volume to use before it kicks in again to fill up just a thought
Why are you using compressed air when you can get 3000 psi from a pressure washer at a far cheaper cost than an air compressor ? I’ve been running my vapour blaster with a Karcher for the last 10 years , try it out 👍
@@2wheelworkshop The XS650 has a number of oil passages drilled through the cases then filled with ball bearings and epoxy (?). Did the vapour blaster remove the filler?
I thought the name didn't make much sense either at first but when you think about it, once you pump 100psi behind the water it turns to vapour pretty quick.
@@2wheelworkshop I had seen them advertised and saw how insano expensive they were and was blown away hahaha! MotoIQ just did a video with MonTune about their Vixen AquaBlast cabinet, it's pretty sweet set up for sure but obscene with how much they cost lol
He should just spray the inside surface of the glass window with Rain-X, and no water will stick to it at all, keeping it basically crystal clear as he works.
With the title, I expected to see something with 'vapour'. Gas pressure etching/cleaning from an acid or at the very least steam. Why is it called 'Vapuor' Blasting?? It's just wet sand blasting. Michael 🇦🇺
I thought the same thing but that is the universally accepted name for this type of blasting so if I want people to find/watch my video I would be silly to call it anything else.
I appreciate you taking the time to show me your setup. It really helps when your getting started. Thanks!
Thanks mate. I'm glad the video was helpful
Perfect! I've just heard the term "Vapour blasting" & wanted to know what it was all about. The description of your home built machine explained it perfectly!
I've just thought of a thousand things I could get started on already! 😆
Cheers mate!
No worries. Glad it helped.
The matte finish looks great!
Thanks mate
I sub'd just because how professional you made a HF sand blasting cabinet look as a vapor blaster using plumbing fittings. I was waiting on you to start showing some crazy pex manifold... Nicely done project
Thanks mate. I appreciate it
👍 like your set up, easy enough to follow, looks like it works really well..like the results you showed us too. Top job. 🙂
If you go back to your Harbor Freight store equivalent, get an auxiliary air tank to put in-line from the compressor tank. Then buy a regulator to put on the aux tank, or more specifically the line between the aux tank and the air tool.
This not only increases air capacity (which increases CFM by default) but it allows you to:
1. Control the pressure closer to the tool.
2. Set the compressor output regulator at the aux tank's maximum PSI, which effectively makes the aux tank part of the compressor tank, and should cycle the compressor less often.
3. Move the loud-*** compressor as far away as you want, because it will essentially be running headless once you get the system up and running. Just keep the aux tank and/or its regulator near the work space.
4. Gives a purpose for that one 50ft super-stiff air hose that you never use because it's a pain to drag around. Works great between the compressor and aux tank.
I do this with a 6-gallon (loud AF) oil-less pancake compressor and an 11-gallon aux tank when I'm using a flooring nailer or framing nailer. It cycles the compressor about half as much in my use-case. Best of all, I don't have to listen to it, but I can still adjust the pressure without having to walk too far.
Pro-tip:
Make a small (like 1 foot long) air hose with open-male connectors on each end. Then when you put the Tee on the aux tank, you can use 2 self-sealing female connectors. Use the small M-to-M hose between the hose coming from the compressor and the aux tank. That way you can isolate either the compressor or the aux tank without losing the built up pressure, just take out the short hose. Makes draining the system properly much easier too.
Alternatively you could put a ball valve on the compressor side of the Tee, then use a male connector on the compressor side of that. The small M-M hose is a lot cheaper though.
Thats an awesome idea. I've been thinking about a lean too off the back of my shed to house the compressor. Space is becoming an issue.
@@2wheelworkshop
Nice. I made this cheap vid to explain it.
th-cam.com/video/ykrJYnWBYNQ/w-d-xo.html
Yah these are killer tips.
I've run a similar setup since the mid 2000s with 2 11gal tanks and a old craftsman. 1 can be disconnected if I need air in the yard for filling tires. The main thing I'll say is watch your heat doing this and tank moisture. Filling a spare tank up to around 70-90 the compressor is usually ok, but if you're trying to put in 100-120 the compressor can struggle to keep that pressure up for sustained periods like running a air chisel or impact. So you will have to watch the heat of the compressor motor and also you will need to drain the tanks cause of moisture. If you do that and keep up on the oil changes it'll last and generally be fine for 95% of what you need to do. Just don't go trying to run a service shop like that lol
I’ve watched most videos and I think this is probably the best one. A lot of videos of people that are really proud of what they built I bet this one will probably work just as good. The only thing I would do is add a wiper.
Cheers mate, that's an absolute ripper! Take the rest of the day off 👌
Thanks mate
Looks good but a lot work just to do a bit of my own stuff. Very clear directions on his build of the unit.
Wow! I just learned something very new to me. Thank you very much for sharing.
No worries mate. Thank you.
Great job got me really keen to try it !
Thanks mate.
thank for such a down to earth descriptive video.
Great video and a cool presentation. Love the accent too. Lol
Got me thinking about setting one up myself.
Thanks mate. They are definitely worth the effort
Amazing result. The cabinet is doable financially, the compressor is the big cost.
Thanks mate. You are 100% on the money about the compressor
I picked up a similar Peerless model (made in Brisbane) for $500 used recently, there's not much to go wrong with them so buying used is a good option
That was a good buy so long as it is in good condition. They may be simple but I have seen my fair share of clapped out compressors.
excellent idea !
Nice rig, now I want to make one! Thanks
Thanks mate
Just a tip for those building one of these. Use Rain-X or a good wax to coat the glass you look through or even the inside of the cabinet. The water will run right off and make it easier to see for extended blasting.
I've had a few people suggest this. Definitely something I will start doing.
Great video, I’m now going to build one 👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks man
Very informative video! Thanks!
Thank you
That's fantastic. I'm going to do the same to my sand blaster
It's pretty handy
As someone who does refurbishd wheels, mostly alloy I get the same finish with old garnet or glass. Then flat the finish with 240 dry rub then 400 then polish.
I have a sandblast cabinet and compressor very similar but one step up with both.
Though you can sand that casting without cleaning at all. I use the sandblast to clean off paint, renmants of brake grime and to clean off corrosion. Then use sandpaper, bad corrosin, s]=dissimialr materials like lead wheel weight has to be sanded out, normally is use 180 but sometimes 80 grit for the worst bits.
For components like wheels and engine casings I think the sandblaster is sufficient. The finish is not as good though (side by side comparison in real life shows a big difference) for intricate parts that you can't sand afterwards like carbs and the like, I think this conversion is the way to go.
Proper vapor blasting seals the Aluminium and stops it from Oxidising again too
nice setup ideea Broodie!
Thanks mate
You could setup a blow gun inside and use it to clear off the window, it could also be useful if you want to partially dry a part to get a better look at the finish.
Thats an idea I might incorporate into my next vapour blaster build
amazing finish on that cover. I would never have believed you could achieve that with such a simple setup....awesome.
I'm going to have to build one myself this Winter as my bike has sat in a damp leaky garage for the past 5 years and the aluminium is in a terrible state. Another excellent quality video .....now where are all those 'build your own' diy vapour blaster cabinet videos
Didn't you see them on TH-cam? th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=vapor+blasting+cabinet+
I probably watched them all before building mine
@@2wheelworkshop I was responding to the other query here. I know you probably did as am I currently. I liked your Glass bead effect one but was wondering if you have tried a high temp water combo? Like 150*F + up to 25* more....
I only ever used the combo in the video. The pump died a while back so it is a sand blaster again now. I have a new pump but I am thinking about making a new improved cabinet for vapour.
Hey mate. Did you end up making a new vapour cabinet? What would you change if you did. Thanks
Good work and an excellent video and you give credit where credit is due - KUDOS
wow , that does a awesome job
It definitely makes life easier.
there are yt videos about collection point changes at base pickup as well to help with flow especially dry blasting.
Yeah I have got a video up for that as well.
Need a windshield Waipa 😂😂😂 Cheers mate 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Just to clear up a few misconceptions regarding vapor blasting. There is no vapor. It is merely a slurry of water and glass beads. It is not designed or intended to clean dirty parts which should first be done with a dry media blaster. The glass beads bounce off the surface and do not etch, hence the term "honing" is often referred to this process which is sometimes used in the aero industry. The working pressure should be below 50 lbs or breakage and short bead life will happen. The beads are bounced off the metal surface and leave a smooth surface. You can place machined parts with no risk to surfaces. You will get faster results with larger air and material lines. Add a valve to the output of the "agitation port to control the "agitation " force.
This process is cleaner than mediablasting, leaving no impurities in the metal like dryblasting. Any part that is to be powder-coated or plated/anodized should be given a rinse of distilled water.
We call it Wet Blasting in the US. Love your Aussie (?) accent. What a nice setup. From what I have read, the minimum size compressor has to deliver 8 CFM for any kind of blasting. This is the major cost and drawback for weight, noise, price. The other issues I have not worked out yet is how do you recycle the used media? Is it enough to drain the water, rinse, drain again? The finish with vapor blasting is much smoother than dry sand blasting. Thanks for a great demo!
You are absolutely right about the compressor. The blaster set up is cheap by comparison. I change the water as needed when it gets dirty but the media lasts a long time and you don't need much.
If you're looking for a beautiful finish on aluminum just use crushed walnut shells at a medium pressure. Leaves a lovely smooth satin finish. No muss no fuss and best of all no water.
I will give that a shot. Thanks mate.
@@2wheelworkshop pun intended?? Lol
🤣 completely unintentional.
No where near the results of vapor blasting btw.
@@outkast187 Try it before you comment. Shells leave a beautiful satin finish.
I need to get myself a workshop. 🙂 Want to buy an old Holda XR400 and rebuild it. This will do magic on the frame and engine. Awesome video.
Thanks mate
Be cheaper just to buy a new dirt bike
@@dreece2000you can't buy a new XR400R anymore. New bikes are not the same.
I really need to make one of these but I travel so much that I dont have anywhere to put one and my dads shop is the only place for one and its already full to the brim. Y'all have got the most evil sounding birds in NZ/AUS. I have never got used to them lol.
They are great to have but together with the compressor, they take up a lot of space. The bloody Cockatoo's all hang around a tree over my back fence and make a huge racket every time I want to film.😡
Great video mate - thanks for sharing. Clear and succinct.
What happens to the debris from all the parts you clean? How is that filtered out / removed?
A lot of it comes out when I change the water but eventually I just chuck the whole lot and use new stuff.
works great
You are a legend!
Thanks mate. Much appreciated
That’s cool
I need one
Thanks mate
Thanks - You should pitch a program for one of the SKY channels. Let's not forget, American Pickers started just by filming what they did and then pitching at a TV channel. DO IT, what have you got to lose.
Thank you. That is probably the most encouraging comment any of my videos has ever received.
I don't know if I have the drive to try and start a show. I'm still struggling to get videos out on TH-cam on a consistent basis.
Very cool
Thanks mate
Very helpful video
Thanks mate
Nice setup! What grit of glass beads do you use? Can it be use on critical parts like cylinder head face, valves, pistons and sleeves?
I can't remember whatever grit of glass bead I have (fine). I threw away the bag ages ago. I used mine to blast all the internals of my xs650 engine, and it was fine. Just had to make sure all the beads were washed out prior to rebuilding.
Yep! She's a beaut.
Thanks mate
I enjoyed this, but one tiny suggestiong might've been 15 seconds explaining why a vapor blaster vs sandblasting. But I enjoyed it, and can see the utility of it. liked and sub'd.
Good point. Thanks mate
Great video. The waste water and debris. Does it just drain into the bin below or is the bin sealed to stop spills. How about air pressure? And where do you get the glass bead. Cheers bud. Jon.
Thanks mate. It all just runs back into the bin in a continuous loop. Air pressure between 70 and 100psi.
isnt it possible to divert some of the air to blast on the screen to keep it clear?
Thought about converting to vapour blasting but decided against it mainly because I do OHV cylinder heads and using even glass beads its a major pain as you spend about 30 minutes cleaning the head and another 5 hours going over and over and over again to make sure no glass beads debri is anywhere left in the head on assembly.. switched over to using soda on aluminum heads and that takes more time cleaning and almost no time after cleaning as the soda cannot damage jack shit if you miss anything on assembly. and if you used baking soda in a vapor blaster it would disappear as soon as you pour it in .. so using ultrasonic cleaning followed up with cosmetic soda blasting to make heads look like new and not have to worry about left over cleaning media ... removing core plugs in cylinder heads are simply a massive pain with a pucker factor of ten with each and every one if you use glass beads/slurry and remove all the plugs to run cleaning brush through all the oil galleys.. soda blasting and ultrasonics remove all the risk.. also seen thousand dollar ultrasonic machines still leave residue after cleaning hence the soda blasting and the use of a $200 ultrasonic cleaner
I'm thinking the same thing. The pump died recently and it's a sand blaster again now. I recently did a quick video on building a DIY metering valve which was a huge improvement on the stock syphon tube.
You can use soda in a vapour blaster. Just keep adding it until it stops dissolving and then add a bit more.
I have heard that. I might give it a go when I get my pump replaced.
Hey mate. What size is the Poly T to fit on the pump? Thanks
I need one of these in my shed life.
can you share a link to the guy from NZ that had the best plans?
Thanks @@2wheelworkshop I am planning an upcoming build that has a lot of old cast alloy parts so I will definitely have to make one of these.
as soon as I upgrade my compressor :(
Awesome video mate! Can you tell me how much in total the blast cabinet modifications cost you, including the pump, hoses, nozzle, bucket and fittings? Cheers!
Thanks man. I couldn't tell you exactly (it was a while ago) but I remember it being between $800-900 aud including cabinet
How much Bar/psi your pressure ?
Looks minty!
Which media are you using?
Thanks mate. It's a really fine glass bead. Can't remember what grade exactly because I through out the bag.
Hi, What would be your recommendations be or thoughts? Would there be any problem’s of getting ALL the dirt and debris “glass bead” out of the engine block and all components after the blasting? Some engine builder’s don’t like any blasting at all, they say, there’s a chance that there’s debris form the cleaning process, even though we believe it’s clean out, that could ruin the finish build? Thank you for the info in your video.
There is definitely a chance there will be something left over. I did it with my engine but I was very thorough when cleaning. It hasn't blown up yet.
I have built an almost identical setup as this cant get it to mix slurry to a near 50/50 mix,more like 20/80, the smaller number being media, what ratio of water to media do you use ? Thanks
At a guess I would say Max 10/90 media/water. As it swirls, the media concentrates in the middle near the pick-up. The pump I have is quite powerful and it gets a really good swirl going.
what sort of setup would you use for open air vapour blasting?
looking to blast a motorcycle engine
I think doing open air vapour blasting would chew up a lot of blasting media and become quite expensive. I have blasted all the cexternal components to 2 XS650 engines in my set-up without any problem. I wouldn't try doing a complete engine even if I could fit it into blaster. That stuff will make it's way into a lot of places you don't want it.
I’ve heard the term vapor blasting but never witnessed it in action until today. Thanks for sharing.
But of course now my mind is thinking about new questions that I did not know I had until I saw your video, lol isn’t that the way it normally works?
Not trying to be negative just wondering what the differences are between glass beads dry versus wet?
Again thanks for sharing, and your system appears to really do a nice job
Thanks mate. I have found that the vapour blaster gets a much nicer and more consistent finish than I am able to achieve with plain bead blasting. Lots of people use them for delicate aluminium parts like carburettors where bead blasting would be too abrasive.
Do you just purchase the fittings for the pump from bunnings and also the brass fittings for the gun and air line fittings?
I got the pump from ebay and the brass fittings from Thrifty Link.
Have used bead blasters many many times over the years so know what they are good and bad at, dust/beads around the unit and in the workplace would have to be the biggest downside. Is this the reason reason for mixing with water? Or is there something else I’m not thinking of? Cheers.
It is a bit more gentle than the same bead would be dry and the finish is a lot nicer. People use them on carbs pretty extensively. Unfortunately this particular setup doesn't really cut down the mess at all. It's's just a wet mess that dries before it causes a slip hazard🤣
@@2wheelworkshop
Thanks very much for the answer, those beads on smooth concrete can be deadly.
How the pump mix the sand with the water? the pump will not brocken quickly with the mixture?
The pump is designed for dirty water. Having said that, the first one died after a year of pretty consistent use. Good thing they are cheap.
Wonder if you can use soda to replace the glass beads.
I have heard you can but you need a lot of it for it to be effective
what material is this? blaster
Where did you get the check valve I can only find 3 port ones?
I picked it up from the local hardware store
sweet setup
Thanks mate
Hey mate where did you get that foot pedal from?
Machineryhouse.com.au.
Part no# 3SC0011
Does the pump go into the garbage container to recirculate your water?
Yes
Why not use potters ballotini number 12 glass bead dry blast?
I have never tried that specific blasting media but out of everything I have tried, the vapour blaster gives the best and most consistent finish.
Do you mind share the spec on the submersible water pump
It's an 1800W, 24,000 L/H, but it is overkill. I reckon you could get away with far less.
The various components all seem very affordable, except for the robotic arms and hands at 6:16 You didn't mention those or where you got them from.
How do you like that compressor? Still going good? Is the noise a problem?
Cheers
I'm pretty happy with it. There are better compressors out there but for the money I definitely can't complain. It is a lot less noisy than the cheap Chinese 1hp compressor I had before.
@@2wheelworkshop awesome thanks for that. I agree, for $1200 and 370lpm free air, can’t really go wrong. I’ll pick mine up this Friday.
Cheers
Nice video, thanks! What are the specs of that slurry pump?
Thanks mate. It was an 1800w 24000L/H. It died a while ago so I am looking at alternatives atm.
@@2wheelworkshop Ive always liked Makita products. Im looking at a 1100 w, 18000L/H. You think it Will do?
I think that would be fine. As long as it is stiring up the slurry and getting it to the gun. The air acts to syphon once you are blasting anyway.
@@2wheelworkshop Hi again! Do the outlets from the T-connector on the pump have the same size? Im about to make one. Bought the Makita pump.
I had had the agitation jet side open (1/2" BSP T) from memory and the other side into a barb for the feed hose. Its not critical, just play around with outlet sizes on the agitation jet so that it stirs enough to mix the slurry but not so much that it spills everywhere.
Is the water just on a constant recycle?
Yeah mate. It's a closed system. It all flows back into the reservoir to be cycled through the gun again.
Can you recycle the residue water?
I wouldn't bother. It lasts a long time and by the time you change it it is full of fine bits of rust/paint/anything else you have been blasting.
Fair dinkum setup mate. Thanks for sharing! How's that pump holdin up
It died after about a year of pretty heavy use. It was a cheap chinese unit though, so I kinda expected that. The cabinet is a sand blaster at the moment but I have a new pump and I am considering building a stainless vapour cabinet.
@@2wheelworkshop Always nice to have a project or twelve to work on ;) Good luck and hope to see more content. I'm a fab guy and I'm interested in making a highly efficient, compact and durable unit. Looking into the cost/benefit ratio of high end, high dollar screw type pumps. My reasoning is that's the weak link. It's directly responsible for the consistency of the finish, correct? Along with nozzle wear I would also assume. Anyway, I could ramble on about ideas and such. Be well!!
You are correct that the pump is the weak link (as far as longevity is concerned) but as far as the consistency goes, as long as it is powerful enough to mix the slurry and get it to the gun it's fine. Once the air is flowing it syphons really well.
Great build looks really useful. How's the submerged pump holding up pumping slurry?
Sorry about that I obviously cursed it!
He said it was a "trash pump" so it should be pretty robust.
It actually died just after he asked the question but all my comments were deleted when I moved my channel.
@@2wheelworkshophow long did it last?
About 5 months. It must have got water in it because it was tripping the breaker every time I turned it on.
Hey mate, do you have a link to the compressor?
Just had a look and it doesn't look like they make the exact model that I have any more. Here is a link to something similar (same motor and pump with a slightly smaller tank)www.bluedm.com.au/piston-air-compressor-electric-3hp-18-cfm-100l-125-psi/
@@2wheelworkshop thanks mate. Did you use a certain brand of glass bead?
I've got same cabinet... I've kept it as dry blast. But I picked up one of the hafco big units with a front door access. If I bought it new at machinery house it would've cost me near on $2500. But found one locally second hand for $850 so that has been now converted to a wetblast/vapor blast cabinet. Seriously need to upgrade my compressor tho...
@@2wheelworkshop yeah mate I rebuilding 3 Goldwings. Same thing with the wheels. I could do them but was pain in the arse. My primary reason for this big cabinet. I can fit whole engine in it. Shame can't attach pics I'd show you what I've done...
@@2wheelworkshop your compressor... Single phase? 3hp? Mine is 3hp... It can do the job but doesn't have the storage so works really hard...
@@2wheelworkshop I was looking at same one you have but blue Diamond don't list it at present.. Just saw it a couple days ago too.. BUT 🤔😊 they have the 10hp at $1800...which will mean I have to have 3 phase installed... Hmmm.
They also advertised a 4hp as well... Which is that upper end of single phase
@@2wheelworkshop yeah... It sure is.. Especially here in WA.... The mining state... Just bang on an extra zero.... and WA... WAIT AWHILE!
I know someone not far away from me that has the vixen unit.... His compressor shit itself and rkns he will spend 15k on one... And he isn't even a business 🙁
I'm in a residential area so petrol/diesel option is prob gonna bit bit more noisier than I'd like. I've been scouring auctions as well...
You should use RainX on the inside. Just a suggestion.
You are the second person to suggest this today. Might be onto something. Thanks mate.
@@2wheelworkshop well its better than going through the trouble of installing a wiper. But you could also try car wax or better yet use ceramic coating. Just throwing out ideas my friend.
@@2wheelworkshop make that three 😅 I was about to suggest that before I read this comment 👍
🤣
I thought vapour blasting involved vapour, not beads. What is bead blasting then?
Bead blasting is just using glass bead in a sand blaster. I didn't make up the name but if you think about it, 100psi through a 3mm jet behind a stream of water will turn it to vapour. Wouldn't get very far cleaning parts without the glass bead though.
Where did you get the foot pedal from? Great video!
@@2wheelworkshop sweet thanks Brodie.....I'll check it out. Unfortunately Eastwood doesn't ship outside of the US....
Just ordered !!! Thanks mate !
Put some rain x on the inside of the glass.
Seems to be the general consensus. Thanks mate.
Something no one talks is the biggest issue with dry blasting is these old bikes have asbestos gaskets. Vapour blasting is the only safe way to remove it.
I never even thought of that. Good point
@@2wheelworkshop amazing hey, that blows me away actually. It truely is something no one even mentions. This video alone has 100k views, over 140 comments and I'm the first to mention it. I wasnt impressed when I found out that after the fact. I soda blasted my head of a old honda with the barrel blaster, literally everything you read on the internet says that baking soda is a safe blast media... not knowing about the gaskets, I remember thinking clear as day, "does anyone really know what happens if you get a lung full of baking soda" so I wore a mask anyway... and kept up that habbit even with the cabinet I'd always wear a respirator. I assume all gaskets are made of the stuff now. And pleae don't freak out like I did, if you were born in one of the worlds finest and most advanced medical facilitys, an Australian hospital...you've been exposed.
That is definitely something I will keep in mind in future. I'm not overly concerned about the exposure in the hospital though. They were still building with it when I was a young kid.
@@2wheelworkshop yeah I mean we live in Australia, the hospital thing is just a ironic fact that is fun to tell people. Its more common in the air than people think, which is a good thing I suppose
What are the consequences for going over the 6 mins work time 4 min break what’s the max you could work in one go, great video dude
Thanks mate. If you exceed the compressors recommended duty cycle you run the risk of overheating and potentially damaging it. I can't say that I haven't gotten impatient and run this compressor for longer with no damage but I try to stick to the 6 on 4 off.
@@2wheelworkshop thanks for getting back to me, great work mate
A 80 gallon with 17scfm or higher is what you are shooting for in air compressor for ANY type of blaster, they consume a lot of air.. I had a 60 gallon 5 hp at my last shop and it managed but i did have to give it breaks every 15minutes. Now have a 80 gallon twin 18 scfm which works better on my harbor freight vapor blaster that i plumbed with 5/8" hoses.
mate where you at melbourne ????
I work in Melbourne
@@2wheelworkshop i do a bit on bikes VMX and vintage re fin heads side covers alloy welding in the ferntree gully
Thats awesome man.
If I was you I’d look at using an old compressor tank as a secondary supply tank you’d have twice the volume to use before it kicks in again to fill up just a thought
I've had a few people suggest that. I'm thinking about building a lean too behind my shed and putting a secondary tank inside.
Why are you using compressed air when you can get 3000 psi from a pressure washer at a far cheaper cost than an air compressor ? I’ve been running my vapour blaster with a Karcher for the last 10 years , try it out 👍
I thought about that but went with this set-up as it is tried and proven. I would love to see your set-up I.e. gun design, feed/scavenging etc.
sorry if you addressed this in the vid, what is the advantage of a vapor blaster vs a sand blaster, once again sorry if this was addressed in the vid
@@2wheelworkshop ahhh I see, things for my own knowledge for later cheers man!
@@2wheelworkshop The XS650 has a number of oil passages drilled through the cases then filled with ball bearings and epoxy (?). Did the vapour blaster remove the filler?
Do yano actually what happened to Josh I haven't heard nothing from is channel for a long time now?
No idea. I have been wondering as well
Bitching explanation and beard🤷🏻♂️🤣
I’m subbed now🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Thanks mate. You're a legend 👊
hello,Sir
what chemicals do you mix in the water?
No chemicals. Just water and fine glass bead.
Más información
Where's the Vapor?
I thought the name didn't make much sense either at first but when you think about it, once you pump 100psi behind the water it turns to vapour pretty quick.
You mean I don't have to pay $12,000+ for a vapor blasting cabinet???
$500 to start and a potential $100 for a pump replacement every year or so.
@@2wheelworkshop I had seen them advertised and saw how insano expensive they were and was blown away hahaha! MotoIQ just did a video with MonTune about their Vixen AquaBlast cabinet, it's pretty sweet set up for sure but obscene with how much they cost lol
Did he say baby blasting cabinet. Bit cruel.
My ratio has been like 1 percent glass bead 99 percent water no matter what I've done.
He should just spray the inside surface of the glass window with Rain-X, and no water will stick to it at all, keeping it basically crystal clear as he works.
Good idea
@@2wheelworkshop Great video here though. That is one SWEET vapor blasting setup you've made, with fantastic results on that engine cover.
Thanks mate. Much appreciated
Jealous. Not got the space tbh. You mentioned the cost of the cabinet but not the pump. Aussie prices but might be interesting for you neighbours.
With the title, I expected to see something with 'vapour'. Gas pressure etching/cleaning from an acid or at the very least steam. Why is it called 'Vapuor' Blasting?? It's just wet sand blasting. Michael 🇦🇺
I thought the same thing but that is the universally accepted name for this type of blasting so if I want people to find/watch my video I would be silly to call it anything else.
quit talking up at the end of your sentences