I use the same method of tightening just not with the torque wrench. I will likely might buy one eventually because I'm OCD and a tool lover anyway. I've true'd and laced a few using a (dating myself) VHS lacing video I order from Bucannon (spoke manufacture). Explained it really well and had multiple patterns. Early days of YT and not a ton there on it. I have a set of take off KTM ones for the gas gas. I was actually thinking of buying some colored rims and lre-acing with some earlier KTM OEM spokes and nipples. I was told before a certain year the OEM is thicker. They fit in the KTM hub so no drilling. So... sort of cheaper upgrade. I have a set of Tadasoko unused black rims laying around (picked them up cheap on craigslist) several years back, but they stamped for a Honda CF. Guy had sold the bike and never laced them. Not sure their is any real difference as the angles are likely all the same. The width and number of holes in the same. The KTM ones are listed with a different part number though. I've thought about ebay selling those to fund the project.
I'd be interested in a wheel truing video as my wheels have seen better days. Do you start by loosing all the spokes, get them "hand" tight, and then start tightening each spoke like how you mentioned? That's what I've tried in the past but didn't know if there was something I was missing.
It depends on what’s going on. If you’re starting with a wheel that’s just a bit out of whack but not bad then yes. If it’s bent quite a bit it’s a different process
I've always done my spokes by feel in the 3 count method you use without any any issues. I broke down and bought the Tusk spoke torque wrench, set it to the KTM spec(I believe it was ~52in lbs) and put my front rim way out of true😐 I've wondered how this happened, what I came up with was because I hand tightened previously. When went around with the torque wrench some of the spokes were actually tighter than what I had set and I ended up with uneven tension on the rim. Next time I use the spoke torque wrench, I'm going use a higher torque spec and make sure none of the spokes are over it.
Love to hear how it goes. In my experience, the tighter the better with spokes. To a point obviously but I knew a guy who built wheels for Metzger and he would go til they almost rounded off.
I'm new at this. Just used the torque tool also. It seems to have went good. One thing I realized is what you said. Spokes on used wheels can tend to stick throwing the torque setting off. I think it's a good idea to at least move every spoke a little just to know it's not seized up and your getting a false reading. Would love your thoughts seems to make sense to me .
@@jordanonofer3886 Using the torque tool, I learned to use a little WD40 or penetrating oil on the nipples and to "crack" them loose before setting the torque.
You never ever ever go more than a half a turn on each spoke if you have to go more skip it and come back. If you have to go around 10 times oh well thats how you end up with horrible wheel hop.
I have one of these. Used it once. I found that some spokes were under-torqued while others were over-torqued. In my efforts to bring them all up to the same tension I un-trued the wheel. I chased this around for an hour before I quit. New wheels are one thing but do you have a recommended procedure for wheels with ride time on it?? My Tusk wrench is collecting dust but I'd love to put it back into use.
The one I’ve done from completely disassembled, I made sure to turn the nipples by the same number of turn all the way around with the same do one skip three pattern. I started with like 6 turns just to take up the slack, then once all the spokes had the slack took up, I torqued them all evenly at a low torque, never turned more than a half turn. Then used the same procedure for final torque. Doing it a little at a time and methodically made it not perfect but completely acceptable. I think going for acceptable from the start seems way easier than tinkering with truing it.
I thought so also. I'm new at this. I went on the lower end just to keep them snug and in the ball game. Just did my first wheel the other day. Seems good. Gonna have someone I know check it that's a guru at it to be sure.
I think I would start at a low torque setting and slowly increase so you don’t pull the hub towards the side you start on.
I use the same method of tightening just not with the torque wrench. I will likely might buy one eventually because I'm OCD and a tool lover anyway. I've true'd and laced a few using a (dating myself) VHS lacing video I order from Bucannon (spoke manufacture). Explained it really well and had multiple patterns. Early days of YT and not a ton there on it. I have a set of take off KTM ones for the gas gas. I was actually thinking of buying some colored rims and lre-acing with some earlier KTM OEM spokes and nipples. I was told before a certain year the OEM is thicker. They fit in the KTM hub so no drilling. So... sort of cheaper upgrade. I have a set of Tadasoko unused black rims laying around (picked them up cheap on craigslist) several years back, but they stamped for a Honda CF. Guy had sold the bike and never laced them. Not sure their is any real difference as the angles are likely all the same. The width and number of holes in the same. The KTM ones are listed with a different part number though. I've thought about ebay selling those to fund the project.
I use a book I’ve had for years. It’s called the Bicycle wheel by Jobst Brandt.
I'd be interested in a wheel truing video as my wheels have seen better days. Do you start by loosing all the spokes, get them "hand" tight, and then start tightening each spoke like how you mentioned? That's what I've tried in the past but didn't know if there was something I was missing.
It depends on what’s going on. If you’re starting with a wheel that’s just a bit out of whack but not bad then yes. If it’s bent quite a bit it’s a different process
Great timing! I have a brand new set of wheels to do.
Right on!
I've always done my spokes by feel in the 3 count method you use without any any issues. I broke down and bought the Tusk spoke torque wrench, set it to the KTM spec(I believe it was ~52in lbs) and put my front rim way out of true😐 I've wondered how this happened, what I came up with was because I hand tightened previously. When went around with the torque wrench some of the spokes were actually tighter than what I had set and I ended up with uneven tension on the rim. Next time I use the spoke torque wrench, I'm going use a higher torque spec and make sure none of the spokes are over it.
Love to hear how it goes. In my experience, the tighter the better with spokes. To a point obviously but I knew a guy who built wheels for Metzger and he would go til they almost rounded off.
I'm new at this. Just used the torque tool also. It seems to have went good. One thing I realized is what you said. Spokes on used wheels can tend to stick throwing the torque setting off. I think it's a good idea to at least move every spoke a little just to know it's not seized up and your getting a false reading. Would love your thoughts seems to make sense to me .
@@jordanonofer3886 Using the torque tool, I learned to use a little WD40 or penetrating oil on the nipples and to "crack" them loose before setting the torque.
great video bro
I may be more excited for you to get your Beta than you are 😂
Can’t wait to hear what you have to say about it
🤣😂
You never ever ever go more than a half a turn on each spoke if you have to go more skip it and come back. If you have to go around 10 times oh well thats how you end up with horrible wheel hop.
That’s a great point. But obviously this wheel ended up straight
I didnt see you measure wheel hop.@highlandcycles
@@Mostviews111just because someone didn’t do it the way you do it doesn’t mean they did it wrong
Yup - read your service manual. Mine says 6Nm or 4.4lb/ft not 80 like he is doing
@@IdahoDirtBiker9908 I do it how I was taught in school by the engineers who designed the shit im sure they know more than you and me.
I have one of these. Used it once. I found that some spokes were under-torqued while others were over-torqued. In my efforts to bring them all up to the same tension I un-trued the wheel. I chased this around for an hour before I quit.
New wheels are one thing but do you have a recommended procedure for wheels with ride time on it??
My Tusk wrench is collecting dust but I'd love to put it back into use.
I’ll make a vid
The one I’ve done from completely disassembled, I made sure to turn the nipples by the same number of turn all the way around with the same do one skip three pattern. I started with like 6 turns just to take up the slack, then once all the spokes had the slack took up, I torqued them all evenly at a low torque, never turned more than a half turn. Then used the same procedure for final torque. Doing it a little at a time and methodically made it not perfect but completely acceptable. I think going for acceptable from the start seems way easier than tinkering with truing it.
I’m not sure what is worse tightening, spokes, or cleaning air filters!
Neither get done enough 🤣
Cleaning air filters is satisfying to be honest. Spoke tightening is annoying
Its surprising how loose the spokes can be on new bikes prior to a break in ride
No kidding
PRC!!!🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽
KTM spoke torque is 5.4nm or 48in-lbs. 80 seems pretty high.
2 things. I’m not sure that it’s accurate as far as true torque. And I have found that tighter is better as long as you keep it round.
@@highlandcycleswhat do you mean as true torque? Like the wrench isn’t accurate? I have always done mine to 48 in-lbs. i guess i should up mine?
@@justincallahan1833 yeah. It might be correct torque but it’s hard to calibrate and it’s an inexpensive tool. It’s more about being consistent
How was your ride? Looked fun I might come that way and ride if y'all let rookies in the group. Ha
Was awesome. Everyone is welcome
You’re doing them almost more than double what they call for….. they call for 44 inch pounds
I thought so also. I'm new at this. I went on the lower end just to keep them snug and in the ball game. Just did my first wheel the other day. Seems good. Gonna have someone I know check it that's a guru at it to be sure.
Torque specs in manual
Dude 40 to 50 in lbs
That's what I thought also. But I'm new at this. I have a yz 250x