Hi Tom, what a coincidence! I was looking for my book on bandsaw set up in my small library and remembered that I took it to our holiday home for some light reading. So utube occurred to me to see what’s available from other people’s experience of the ‘Inca 260” Hey presto I stumbled upon your video. The book I was after is the one you had in your hand, like you I bought it over 30yrs ago! You can nerd out about blades as much as you like, all information is good. Explaining how to fold the blade, this may sound better, one hand up the other down,twist the hands the opposite way ( so your forming a figure eight ) whilst bringing the hands together. Tensioning the blade, your system seems to be a lot more precise than just guessing the sideways movement, I’ll give it ago. With regard the blade positioning on the wheel tire, I’ve always placed it so that the gullet is on the tire but the actual teeth are just proud and that prevents unnecessary wear on the tire. Seems to work for me and tracking the blade is visually easy. I’ve never tried the diamond stone on the back of the blade so I’m going to try that. Thanks for giving us such a clear and practical tutorial on a piece of equipment that has so many different adjustments 😃👍
Wow, how cool is that?! Sounds like we are contemporaries and had nearly the identical experience and opinion of Mark. He was really something on that bandsaw! I’m so glad you found me and enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching, See you on the stream! 👍😎
I just bought a bandsaw a first for me. And it's this bandsawo damn near inca euro 342. Other than color seems identical. I wasnt sure if it was worth the price used 200 $ than I noticed that yourself and quite a few other professionals have one in there shop despite having larger saws decided if he thinks it's worth having it's a good one. And damn is it. Cant overstate how awesome it was to have a step by step on my exact saw from someone who knows wtf they're doing as I did not. I got it up and running flawlessly first try following your steps (open case sketchyness included) it cuts like a laser and just made 2 1x6s out of a 2x6 just to see if I could and i got perfect 90 faces with an old standard tooth 1/4 blade that came with it. excited to see how much better it can be with a timber wolf!! Thank you!!😄👍 Sort of feels like cheating after doing everything with a collection of vintage hand saws.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know how well it worked out for you, made my day too! I wish you all the best in your creative woodworking pursuits! 👍😎
Thank you for sharing the vid Tom, nice job. FYI, I’m a cyclist too and regularly use the parafanic dry lubes on my bike and in the shop. The brand I prefer is Boeshield T-9. The idea behind it is that it encapsulates contaminants and as that happens, dry booger bits will then flake off, which of course removes the crud from workings of the device, and that reduces wear. Importantly, the flaked away lubricant is no longer contributing to lubrication, it is effectively consumed, so it needs to be periodically refreshed; the nastier and more intensive the use, the more frequent the maintenance interval. On the bottle, the recommendation is to reapply every 200 miles of riding, more frequently in wet and or dirty conditions. My chains last a very long time, are very clean in appearance, and look practically brand new - it is a great product that also protects from rust. One downside I have noticed is that after it dries down, it remains kind of tacky and that means if I apply it to a cast iron top, it can be a bit grabby with the stock.
That’s awesome info, thanks! We have a bike store nearby in Concord, NH. I will have to check that out...or look on Amazon. I’m amazed how smoothly my trunnion on the saw is operating now, like new since it was cleaned and treated! Thanks again, Tom
@@EpicWoodworking It is quite satisfying to have a maintenance effort yield that kind of result. Smooth, like butta reminds you every time you use the tool; it brings a smile to my face.
Hey, RE your preference for 6tpi blades because of the cleaner cuts. Have you been able to directly glue up pieces cut with the 6tpi blade, or do you have to go back and joint the stock? This is a tricky situation, because it is safer and possible to cut 1/4” strips, which of course would be tricky and/or dangerous to process with either the jointer or planer. It seems that some roughness might get compressed away during glue-up and the tiny gaps would likewise be able to swell somewhat due to the moisture in the glue, in other words it seems like things would even themselves out. What are your thoughts? Will the joint look crummier?
It is possible to glue up right off the bandsaw, but it depends on the smoothness of the cut, and the smoothness is dependent on how well the bandsaw is tuned up overall…the guides, the drift angle being true, and the blade type. Personally I usually plane on the jointer ,or sometimes by hand, the surfaces of my edge glue joints. But you can always do a test glue up right off the bandsaw and I think you’ll find good results if everything is tuned out on the bandsaw. There’s a chair maker in the Midwest named Brian Boggs who has done some videos on band sawing and gluing up right off the bandsaw. Perhaps with a search you can find those if you’re interested. Hope that makes sense and helps, Thanks for watching!
I just received mine from Amazon. It came with a 1/4" blade. I used it and was unhappy with the cut. It wasn't smooth. It was like a wash board. I thought it probably was a cheap blade and ordered a higher quality 3/16 inch 10 TPI blade. I installed it and I still get the wash board effect on my cuts. I have tried different blade tensions and blade positions on the wheel and still not change. Do you have any helpful suggestions?
Since this is a bandsaw video I’m wondering if you meant to say tablesaw or bandsaw? If bandsaw, there are usually a few bolts underneath the table which attach the table to the trunnion. There is usually some play that will allow you to turn the saw table in the direction needed. This video by Michael Fortune might be helpful as well fb.watch/afm1GIJHOB/ Hope that helps! Thanks for watching 👍😎
Tom you are truly a great Craftsman and I enjoy your videos as they are extremely informative. My only concern is being a little more efficient with time.
Thanks for the kind words Dan. Yeah, the livestream offers a different format where a little personal thing or related story can be well received by some or thought as wasted time. I am so on to the next project that I don’t go back and edit the live-streams which would help to tighten them up. I don’t know if you’re meaning the courses I have offered, including the recent free ones. In those I try to stay with basically “just the facts” of the processes to building the projects. Thanks for watching! Tom
Tom, I know this is out of topic with the video but I would like to know your opinion of spokeshaves. Mostly straight cut, curve cut and brand you prefer or recommend. Thanks
Hey John, Thanks for the question. I have found I primarily use a straight soled spokeshave, my favorite being an old Stanley 151. It’s easy to adjust and works well in a lot of situations. There are other new brands out there I haven’t tried but my guess is many would perform well. I will be doing more on spokeshaves as we go along. I hope for now that’s helpful, thanks again! Tom
I bought bandsaw just like this one,, the guy almost gave it to me…… He thought is was broke, I got it home and did a visual inspection………. The wheel belts was to big and the blade was backward 😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 This bandsaw is a gem and I love it.
Ooh, nice find!! I love my Inca as well. The earlier models were all made in Switzerland, known for their engineering precision. Mine was made after some time in France, although still to the same specs I think. I bought mine new in 1990…for around $700, which was a lot for a smaller saw at the time. But I’m still using it most everyday, so I’d say you got a great deal! 👍😎
Hi Tom, good session on the band saw, learned a few good tips. I have a 14" delta band saw I like it alot, thinking of adding additional height to it. Could use the extra height, delta has a 4" or 6" spacer. Do you think it could cause problems? I know I would need a larger blade. See you next week on SNL.
Thanks Steve! I know many people who have added the riser to their bandsaws and had no problems. But given I have no personal experience, I’m not sure what might be the best advice there. See you next week! 👍
Tom, not sure if you covered it but my question is about the un-tensioning lever.......this is the lever that allows you to un-tension the blade when not used for a while without upsetting the setup tension. I more often then not forget to use it and after a week of not using the Bandsaw realise it’s still tensioned......do you think this is detrimental or just myth that it needs to be done? Cheers
Oh thanks for mentioning that Mike. I forgot to say something about de-tensioning the blade when not using. I don’t have one of those levers on either of my bandsaws but from what I’ve heard, and it makes sense given the less continual stress, the blades do last longer if they are de-tensioned. But I’m sure if I had one I would be just like you and forget to ever do it...and then someday I would write to someone who pretended to know what he was talking about, and ask him to confirm it didn’t really matter anyway 😎. No worries, saw on! 👍 Thanks for watching, Tom
I have the same 10” Inca bandsaw but my wheels are flat (not crowned). I, too, bought it due to Mark Duginske’s recommendation and he mentioned that the flat tires on the unit were an advantage. Seems odd that your wheels are crowned.
Hmm, I missed Mark Duginski’s comment on the advantages of the flat wheels. I need to check mine again. But I have replaced them once or twice and I vaguely remember seeing Mark Duginski showing a technique during a demo where he wrapped sandpaper around a stick and sanded a slight crown onto his tires...which is why and how mine got their crown. Either way, it’s been a nice saw for me for almost thirty years now 😎 Thanks Chris!
@@EpicWoodworking To crown or not to crown is an interesting topic. Flat minimizes the issue of blade drift, yet introduces the issue of the teeth prematurely destroying the tires. For that matter, the tooth set could actually position the blade root at a bias to the surface of the wheels and make for a slightly unadjustable bias between the two. I wonder if the more limited contact area of the crown might play a role in absorbing shock and other cutting stresses that could cause the blade to break. That said, it is worth noting that every piece of manufacturer’s literature and guides, videos included, that I have seen suggest crowning the tires, some Carter urethane replacement tires came pre-crowned, and my Italian Laguna’s factory tires came slightly crowned.
Yeah that sounds good. I’m always cautious when I hear about silicone use around the workshop because I’ve had some nightmare silicone contamination problems in the finishing room 😎
It ist very dangerous to run the machine without the front cover especially tightening the blade. When it breaks it may cause hard hurt to your body!! 👎👎. Stay healthy!! Greetings
I've had my Inca for well over 30 years now and, sadly, the manual is long gone, but you can find a PDF version here www.inca-maschinen.ch/ws/media-library/9b14e6f8c36d403da9bd5034a5abb4ae/bandsaege_euro260_neu.pdf It's worth noting that, on page 5, when it's talking about fitting a new blade, it says "Adjust the tracking of the blade so that the teeth protrude slightly from the rubber layer".
Thanks Peter. That’s interesting and I’ve heard a number of conflicting advisements on proper blade tracking over the years. Alex Snodgrass swears the gullet should track over the center of the wheel. I took Mark Duginski’s advice as he was THE Inca bandsaw guy back when I bought it. He advised to crown the wheel and the blade would then track more easily in the center where, in his opinion, it performed best, and because of the crown the set on the teeth did not scar the tire. Hard to argue with the performance I witnessed him getting during an Inca demo, very impressive. Thanks again! 👍😎
Hi Tom, what a coincidence! I was looking for my book on bandsaw set up in my small library and remembered that I took it to our holiday home for some light reading. So utube occurred to me to see what’s available from other people’s experience of the ‘Inca 260” Hey presto I stumbled upon your video. The book I was after is the one you had in your hand, like you I bought it over 30yrs ago! You can nerd out about blades as much as you like, all information is good. Explaining how to fold the blade, this may sound better, one hand up the other down,twist the hands the opposite way ( so your forming a figure eight ) whilst bringing the hands together. Tensioning the blade, your system seems to be a lot more precise than just guessing the sideways movement, I’ll give it ago. With regard the blade positioning on the wheel tire, I’ve always placed it so that the gullet is on the tire but the actual teeth are just proud and that prevents unnecessary wear on the tire. Seems to work for me and tracking the blade is visually easy. I’ve never tried the diamond stone on the back of the blade so I’m going to try that. Thanks for giving us such a clear and practical tutorial on a piece of equipment that has so many different adjustments 😃👍
Wow, how cool is that?! Sounds like we are contemporaries and had nearly the identical experience and opinion of Mark. He was really something on that bandsaw! I’m so glad you found me and enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching, See you on the stream!
👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking you certainly will Tom 😁👍
I just bought a bandsaw a first for me. And it's this bandsawo damn near inca euro 342. Other than color seems identical. I wasnt sure if it was worth the price used 200 $ than I noticed that yourself and quite a few other professionals have one in there shop despite having larger saws decided if he thinks it's worth having it's a good one. And damn is it. Cant overstate how awesome it was to have a step by step on my exact saw from someone who knows wtf they're doing as I did not. I got it up and running flawlessly first try following your steps (open case sketchyness included) it cuts like a laser and just made 2 1x6s out of a 2x6 just to see if I could and i got perfect 90 faces with an old standard tooth 1/4 blade that came with it. excited to see how much better it can be with a timber wolf!! Thank you!!😄👍
Sort of feels like cheating after doing everything with a collection of vintage hand saws.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know how well it worked out for you, made my day too! I wish you all the best in your creative woodworking pursuits! 👍😎
Tom cracks me up. Good program and presenter. Very enjoyable.
Thank you Charles! Okay, so now it’s confirmed at least one person thinks I can be funny 😎
Thank you for sharing the vid Tom, nice job.
FYI, I’m a cyclist too and regularly use the parafanic dry lubes on my bike and in the shop. The brand I prefer is Boeshield T-9. The idea behind it is that it encapsulates contaminants and as that happens, dry booger bits will then flake off, which of course removes the crud from workings of the device, and that reduces wear.
Importantly, the flaked away lubricant is no longer contributing to lubrication, it is effectively consumed, so it needs to be periodically refreshed; the nastier and more intensive the use, the more frequent the maintenance interval. On the bottle, the recommendation is to reapply every 200 miles of riding, more frequently in wet and or dirty conditions. My chains last a very long time, are very clean in appearance, and look practically brand new - it is a great product that also protects from rust.
One downside I have noticed is that after it dries down, it remains kind of tacky and that means if I apply it to a cast iron top, it can be a bit grabby with the stock.
That’s awesome info, thanks! We have a bike store nearby in Concord, NH. I will have to check that out...or look on Amazon. I’m amazed how smoothly my trunnion on the saw is operating now, like new since it was cleaned and treated! Thanks again, Tom
@@EpicWoodworking It is quite satisfying to have a maintenance effort yield that kind of result. Smooth, like butta reminds you every time you use the tool; it brings a smile to my face.
Thank god you got the drill press issue solved. It was driving me crazy :) You have restored my faith in Powermatic.
Yeah, I love that it’s gone too! Crazy the set screw was never installed...and thanks to Peter it’s back to how it was supposed to be!
Hey, RE your preference for 6tpi blades because of the cleaner cuts. Have you been able to directly glue up pieces cut with the 6tpi blade, or do you have to go back and joint the stock?
This is a tricky situation, because it is safer and possible to cut 1/4” strips, which of course would be tricky and/or dangerous to process with either the jointer or planer. It seems that some roughness might get compressed away during glue-up and the tiny gaps would likewise be able to swell somewhat due to the moisture in the glue, in other words it seems like things would even themselves out. What are your thoughts? Will the joint look crummier?
It is possible to glue up right off the bandsaw, but it depends on the smoothness of the cut, and the smoothness is dependent on how well the bandsaw is tuned up overall…the guides, the drift angle being true, and the blade type.
Personally I usually plane on the jointer ,or sometimes by hand, the surfaces of my edge glue joints. But you can always do a test glue up right off the bandsaw and I think you’ll find good results if everything is tuned out on the bandsaw. There’s a chair maker in the Midwest named Brian Boggs who has done some videos on band sawing and gluing up right off the bandsaw. Perhaps with a search you can find those if you’re interested.
Hope that makes sense and helps, Thanks for watching!
Another good one Tom! Thanks for all you do!
Thank you!
I just received mine from Amazon. It came with a 1/4" blade. I used it and was unhappy with the cut. It wasn't smooth. It was like a wash board. I thought it probably was a cheap blade and ordered a higher quality 3/16 inch 10 TPI blade. I installed it and I still get the wash board effect on my cuts. I have tried different blade tensions and blade positions on the wheel and still not change. Do you have any helpful suggestions?
I would like to know … How to align the table saw table so the grooves in the table are exactly aligned parallel to the blade… ????
Since this is a bandsaw video I’m wondering if you meant to say tablesaw or bandsaw?
If bandsaw, there are usually a few bolts underneath the table which attach the table to the trunnion. There is usually some play that will allow you to turn the saw table in the direction needed. This video by Michael Fortune might be helpful as well fb.watch/afm1GIJHOB/
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching 👍😎
Tom you are truly a great Craftsman and I enjoy your videos as they are extremely informative. My only concern is being a little more efficient with time.
Thanks for the kind words Dan. Yeah, the livestream offers a different format where a little personal thing or related story can be well received by some or thought as wasted time. I am so on to the next project that I don’t go back and edit the live-streams which would help to tighten them up. I don’t know if you’re meaning the courses I have offered, including the recent free ones. In those I try to stay with basically “just the facts” of the processes to building the projects.
Thanks for watching! Tom
Tom, I know this is out of topic with the video but I would like to know your opinion of spokeshaves. Mostly straight cut, curve cut and brand you prefer or recommend. Thanks
Hey John,
Thanks for the question. I have found I primarily use a straight soled spokeshave, my favorite being an old Stanley 151. It’s easy to adjust and works well in a lot of situations. There are other new brands out there I haven’t tried but my guess is many would perform well.
I will be doing more on spokeshaves as we go along. I hope for now that’s helpful, thanks again! Tom
I bought bandsaw just like this one,, the guy almost gave it to me…… He thought is was broke, I got it home and did a visual inspection………. The wheel belts was to big and the blade was backward 😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 This bandsaw is a gem and I love it.
Ooh, nice find!! I love my Inca as well. The earlier models were all made in Switzerland, known for their engineering precision. Mine was made after some time in France, although still to the same specs I think. I bought mine new in 1990…for around $700, which was a lot for a smaller saw at the time. But I’m still using it most everyday, so I’d say you got a great deal! 👍😎
So happy your drill press got fixed finally! 😂😂
Yes, me too Madison...the funny part was wearing off and got to be plain annoying, thanks! 😎
Excellent advice, as always. Thanks!
BTW: Good work fixing the drill press. That rattling must have been annoying. 😎
Yes, it’s a big difference to have it quieted down as it was meant to be 👍 Thanks!
Hi Tom, good session on the band saw, learned a few good tips. I have a 14" delta band saw I like it alot, thinking of adding additional height to it. Could use the extra height, delta has a 4" or 6" spacer. Do you think it could cause problems? I know I would need a larger blade. See you next week on SNL.
Thanks Steve! I know many people who have added the riser to their bandsaws and had no problems. But given I have no personal experience, I’m not sure what might be the best advice there.
See you next week! 👍
Tom, not sure if you covered it but my question is about the un-tensioning lever.......this is the lever that allows you to un-tension the blade when not used for a while without upsetting the setup tension. I more often then not forget to use it and after a week of not using the Bandsaw realise it’s still tensioned......do you think this is detrimental or just myth that it needs to be done?
Cheers
Oh thanks for mentioning that Mike. I forgot to say something about de-tensioning the blade when not using. I don’t have one of those levers on either of my bandsaws but from what I’ve heard, and it makes sense given the less continual stress, the blades do last longer if they are de-tensioned.
But I’m sure if I had one I would be just like you and forget to ever do it...and then someday I would write to someone who pretended to know what he was talking about, and ask him to confirm it didn’t really matter anyway 😎. No worries, saw on! 👍 Thanks for watching, Tom
@@EpicWoodworking 😛😛
I have the same 10” Inca bandsaw but my wheels are flat (not crowned). I, too, bought it due to Mark Duginske’s recommendation and he mentioned that the flat tires on the unit were an advantage. Seems odd that your wheels are crowned.
Hmm, I missed Mark Duginski’s comment on the advantages of the flat wheels. I need to check mine again. But I have replaced them once or twice and I vaguely remember seeing Mark Duginski showing a technique during a demo where he wrapped sandpaper around a stick and sanded a slight crown onto his tires...which is why and how mine got their crown. Either way, it’s been a nice saw for me for almost thirty years now 😎 Thanks Chris!
@@EpicWoodworking To crown or not to crown is an interesting topic. Flat minimizes the issue of blade drift, yet introduces the issue of the teeth prematurely destroying the tires. For that matter, the tooth set could actually position the blade root at a bias to the surface of the wheels and make for a slightly unadjustable bias between the two.
I wonder if the more limited contact area of the crown might play a role in absorbing shock and other cutting stresses that could cause the blade to break. That said, it is worth noting that every piece of manufacturer’s literature and guides, videos included, that I have seen suggest crowning the tires, some Carter urethane replacement tires came pre-crowned, and my Italian Laguna’s factory tires came slightly crowned.
My Inca 260 is crowned.
Edit: no they where actually straight. It surprised me and I need to rethink some earlier truths.
I use a form of dry silicon lube on my table saw. Seems to work well and I don't think it collects dust that gums things up like and oil base lube.
Yeah that sounds good. I’m always cautious when I hear about silicone use around the workshop because I’ve had some nightmare silicone contamination problems in the finishing room 😎
Tom i like Alex Snodgrass's bandsaw video I like his explanation of bandsaw drift
Yes, he’s great with the bandsaw!! 👍
Thanks for watching 😎
Position the deepest part of the gullet in the middle of the wheel. No blade drift. Alex is dead on with this. Watch his video.
Fresh blades are bandsaw magic. (maybe the equivalent would be cleaning your tablesaw blade)
Yeah, nothing like a fresh start! Thanks 👍
i send you a dollar bill if you'll put it toward a set of feeler gauges.
It ist very dangerous to run the machine without the front cover especially tightening the blade. When it breaks it may cause hard hurt to your body!! 👎👎.
Stay healthy!!
Greetings
I need less talking and more doing. Your stories are great but I don't have time.
I've had my Inca for well over 30 years now and, sadly, the manual is long gone, but you can find a PDF version here
www.inca-maschinen.ch/ws/media-library/9b14e6f8c36d403da9bd5034a5abb4ae/bandsaege_euro260_neu.pdf
It's worth noting that, on page 5, when it's talking about fitting a new blade, it says "Adjust the tracking of the blade so that the teeth protrude slightly from the rubber layer".
Thanks Peter. That’s interesting and I’ve heard a number of conflicting advisements on proper blade tracking over the years. Alex Snodgrass swears the gullet should track over the center of the wheel. I took Mark Duginski’s advice as he was THE Inca bandsaw guy back when I bought it. He advised to crown the wheel and the blade would then track more easily in the center where, in his opinion, it performed best, and because of the crown the set on the teeth did not scar the tire. Hard to argue with the performance I witnessed him getting during an Inca demo, very impressive. Thanks again! 👍😎