i know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Sergio Sergio thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Well, with that shiny new header, you gotta get some nice Weber DCOE carbs on there! Might as well get a new cam while you're at it, and oh, isnt it time to upgrade the suspension?.......
There will definitely be an upgrade on the intake side over the winter including all new carbs, refreshed head and a new cam. I also have all new suspension for it, however we just wanted to focus on the exhaust and coolant modifications for this series. You can be sure to see a video of Speed Academy's Celica and the 2002 reuniting in the future and going for a drive together with all the new modifications.
One thing I noticed when you guys explained the line going from the upper radiator connector to the waterneck/thermostate housing: When turning the hose that it enters the waterneck from the upper side you risk creating an area where air bubbles can accumulate and make bleeding the system an absolute nightmare...
Hey nice workmanship..the only thing I worry about is the original hoses were all rubber so they were vey flexible however some of your hoses have very short sections of flexible hose which may transmit more vibration to the radiator etc...
It's very important to have flex, like you said. However, the Vibrant Race Hoses are flexible as well, actually more flexible than the original ones. The lower section is now longer to allows more flex, and the upper portion has the silicone piece that attaches to the waterpump which allows for flex as well as you can see at 10:17
Would you recommend using these hoses if the engine and radiator are on opposite sides of the car. Trunk to hood length. Let say 6-8 feet in each direction.
I thought the same lol, but it's just a lil 4 banger, not going to be generating enough heat to necessitate larger (wayyyy more expensive) fittings and line
how did Aaron clear the chips out of the radiator after drilling? i was thinking of making a custom oil cooler and intercooler and could use some tips -ryan
Hey Ryan, you could either vacuum them out, or blow them out from the other side. Ideally you want to de-bur the hole using a deburring tool. This will provide larger chips as opposed to a hand file which will create smaller chips that are much more difficult to remove.
6:57 Aren't those fittings going to choke your coolant flow a bit? The ID looks to be quite a bit smaller than the stock hose ID, and even a small difference in diameter will make a large difference in cross-sectional flow area.
You are right about it being smaller, the factory ID for the M10 engine is 1.25", and the -16AN hoses are 1" ID. We have seen this exact radiator setup (which also comes with -16AN bungs preinstalled) in many 1200+ WHP race setup (Drag and Circuit) 4 cylinder Honda Engines with no overheating issues (for comparison - Honda B and K series engines have 1.25" ID hoses from factory). We also have know that Will Au-Yeung's Vibrant Time Attack Civic (1000+whp, turbocharged 4 Cylinder K Series Engine) is currently equipped with -16 AN lines and not experiencing any overheating issues. You can see a video of his car setting the track record at Buttonwillow on our channel. -Art
Kinda what I was concerned about...the rad isn't important if you can't get the coolant to and from it fast enough. Those older engine designs didn't exactly have the most efficient water pumps - those Honda engines mentioned would have much better flow from the factory, and I wouldn't be surprised if they were running improved pumps, or possibly even electric helper pumps. If you reduce the ID from 1 1/4" to 7/8", you lose about a third of your cross-sectional area - 3.9 sq in vs. 2.6 sq in (-16 AN is a 1" OD, so that should be pretty close for the ID) - making a significant difference to possible flow rate and possibly increasing the likelihood of cavitation inside the pump at higher RPM (and of course, the easier the coolant flows, the less parasitic load from the water pump - another plus in terms of performance.) It may work, but it would be too marginal for my taste. On the other hand, I come from a country where the road surface sometimes melts on a nice, hot summer's day (you can sink your tyres into it if they spin, just like driving in thick mud), but it may be less of an issue where you blokes are. :-D
We agree, WD40 is a solvent but we are using it as a 'lubricant' in this situation so that they fittings don't go in completely dry. The size of the Upper and Lower Fittings and hoses is -16AN
@@VibrantPerformanceTV It's job (wd40) is to displace water but there's another spray I use available in the UK called GT85 which lubricates and prevents rust and generally used on bike chains. It''s a light lube and really good to have hanging around for these type jobs. I bought AN16 fittings for my EWP project on a Ford 289 mustang. Thanks for your video I can see that they can work as I was worried they might be too small as the standard hoses on a 65 Mustang are 1.5" (top) and 1.75" (bottom)!!
Really hope the hose material isnt rubber because that wd40 will just deteriorate that hose pretty quickly. Would suck to put that much effort in that system to have to redo it in a year or two. Silicone lube works best for assembling these hoses.
These hoses are "E85" safe; Aaron had done it this way with all the lines in the RWD CRX about 4+ years ago. We have yet to have a leak from any of the oil, water or fuel lines he's done.
The type of hose used there looks like either startlite which has an elastomer smooth bore inner tube (safe for all water, lube, fuel or air) or if they're using the fancier stuff (I forget the technical name) it has a nylon bore, either way wd-40 won't touch the stuff
I used to argue that, til I found out it's basically fish oil, not as much lubricity as needed for bearings, but perfectly fine as an install lube. Nice and light, no residue to worry about.
No need for those race fittings on that old turd of a engine. It is like putting a giant carbon GT wing on a Yugo. You kids know they make OE fitment cooling products right?
Adam Jordan That and they are trying to teach people how to build a cooling system in a roundabout way. I don't get why people cant understand that these guys are trying to teach us not just spend $300 on hoses for no reason.
Wow, loved that cold start especially the "skrrraap pop! pop! ka ka ka" that was amazing!!!! Corsa LOOK OUT!!....LOL...LOL
My hat is off to you guys for making your videos more entertaining than the Speed Academy's. You have my vote ;)
I must say it sounds fabulous!
i know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Dallas Chandler Instablaster ;)
@Sergio Sergio thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Sergio Sergio It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out!
@Dallas Chandler you are welcome xD
Aaron's fab skills are amazing!
Wow what a gold channel
That first start is so good!
Well, with that shiny new header, you gotta get some nice Weber DCOE carbs on there! Might as well get a new cam while you're at it, and oh, isnt it time to upgrade the suspension?.......
There will definitely be an upgrade on the intake side over the winter including all new carbs, refreshed head and a new cam. I also have all new suspension for it, however we just wanted to focus on the exhaust and coolant modifications for this series. You can be sure to see a video of Speed Academy's Celica and the 2002 reuniting in the future and going for a drive together with all the new modifications.
Thanks for the support brace trick!
Nobody needs to order any,takes so little effort to make
One thing I noticed when you guys explained the line going from the upper radiator connector to the waterneck/thermostate housing:
When turning the hose that it enters the waterneck from the upper side you risk creating an area where air bubbles can accumulate and make bleeding the system an absolute nightmare...
FYI...I vote your build "The Winner"...Header that is....LOL
YES you absolute fucking legends pap pap boom boom
love dat BMW pap pap boom boom
Fire in the bay, fire in the bay, your manifolds not hot, manifold can never be hot
where can i buy me some vibrant performance cardboard?
Gerrit-Jan Bergwerf I think if you order some stuff from them they send you some complementary performance cardboard ;P
Hey nice workmanship..the only thing I worry about is the original hoses were all rubber so they were vey flexible however some of your hoses have very short sections of flexible hose which may transmit more vibration to the radiator etc...
It's very important to have flex, like you said. However, the Vibrant Race Hoses are flexible as well, actually more flexible than the original ones. The lower section is now longer to allows more flex, and the upper portion has the silicone piece that attaches to the waterpump which allows for flex as well as you can see at 10:17
Would you recommend using these hoses if the engine and radiator are on opposite sides of the car. Trunk to hood length. Let say 6-8 feet in each direction.
That's some pretty small ID coolant piping. Looks nice though!
I thought the same lol, but it's just a lil 4 banger, not going to be generating enough heat to necessitate larger (wayyyy more expensive) fittings and line
My favorite part is the "you want to consider that"
Gotta love Vibrant Performance hardware, it's a shame when ordering to the UK we get screwed by import duties.
Contact BTN Performance, they are our direct UK Dealer
Any Norwegian Vibrant dealers?
It would also be BTN Performance, as they are our master distributor for all of Europe.
Thanks
how did Aaron clear the chips out of the radiator after drilling? i was thinking of making a custom oil cooler and intercooler and could use some tips -ryan
Hey Ryan, you could either vacuum them out, or blow them out from the other side. Ideally you want to de-bur the hole using a deburring tool. This will provide larger chips as opposed to a hand file which will create smaller chips that are much more difficult to remove.
Hey how much would it cost for this set up on a different car for just the large upper and lower rad hose?
Would really depend on the length, type of fittings and amount of hose you are running.
6:57 Aren't those fittings going to choke your coolant flow a bit? The ID looks to be quite a bit smaller than the stock hose ID, and even a small difference in diameter will make a large difference in cross-sectional flow area.
You are right about it being smaller, the factory ID for the M10 engine is 1.25", and the -16AN hoses are 1" ID. We have seen this exact radiator setup (which also comes with -16AN bungs preinstalled) in many 1200+ WHP race setup (Drag and Circuit) 4 cylinder Honda Engines with no overheating issues (for comparison - Honda B and K series engines have 1.25" ID hoses from factory). We also have know that Will Au-Yeung's Vibrant Time Attack Civic (1000+whp, turbocharged 4 Cylinder K Series Engine) is currently equipped with -16 AN lines and not experiencing any overheating issues. You can see a video of his car setting the track record at Buttonwillow on our channel.
-Art
aussiebloke609 with a decent radiator setup, I feel like the difference would be negligible.
With a factory water pump??
Kinda what I was concerned about...the rad isn't important if you can't get the coolant to and from it fast enough. Those older engine designs didn't exactly have the most efficient water pumps - those Honda engines mentioned would have much better flow from the factory, and I wouldn't be surprised if they were running improved pumps, or possibly even electric helper pumps. If you reduce the ID from 1 1/4" to 7/8", you lose about a third of your cross-sectional area - 3.9 sq in vs. 2.6 sq in (-16 AN is a 1" OD, so that should be pretty close for the ID) - making a significant difference to possible flow rate and possibly increasing the likelihood of cavitation inside the pump at higher RPM (and of course, the easier the coolant flows, the less parasitic load from the water pump - another plus in terms of performance.) It may work, but it would be too marginal for my taste.
On the other hand, I come from a country where the road surface sometimes melts on a nice, hot summer's day (you can sink your tyres into it if they spin, just like driving in thick mud), but it may be less of an issue where you blokes are. :-D
What size are the AN fittings? Oh by the way WD40 isn't a lubricant.
We agree, WD40 is a solvent but we are using it as a 'lubricant' in this situation so that they fittings don't go in completely dry. The size of the Upper and Lower Fittings and hoses is -16AN
@@VibrantPerformanceTV It's job (wd40) is to displace water but there's another spray I use available in the UK called GT85 which lubricates and prevents rust and generally used on bike chains. It''s a light lube and really good to have hanging around for these type jobs.
I bought AN16 fittings for my EWP project on a Ford 289 mustang. Thanks for your video I can see that they can work as I was worried they might be too small as the standard hoses on a 65 Mustang are 1.5" (top) and 1.75" (bottom)!!
Really hope the hose material isnt rubber because that wd40 will just deteriorate that hose pretty quickly. Would suck to put that much effort in that system to have to redo it in a year or two. Silicone lube works best for assembling these hoses.
These hoses are "E85" safe; Aaron had done it this way with all the lines in the RWD CRX about 4+ years ago. We have yet to have a leak from any of the oil, water or fuel lines he's done.
The type of hose used there looks like either startlite which has an elastomer smooth bore inner tube (safe for all water, lube, fuel or air) or if they're using the fancier stuff (I forget the technical name) it has a nylon bore, either way wd-40 won't touch the stuff
What size r the an fittings u r using
For the Coolant setup, -16AN fittings were used
hey wats the song in the background
How do I get one of those custom Mufflers? LOL
You can order them through our distribution channel, feel free to check our website, we have plenty of options:
vibrantperformance.com
We’re are they located in Montreal
We are located in Mississauga, Ontario
arron looks like elmer fud
Now you need to bash in the sheetmetal so that stupid bundle of snakes doesn't rub when the motor mount flexes.
gave me a laugh.. pa pa pa!
Funny part is that's how I describe honda car noise
I died.
So $300 in hoses and fittings and paying someone to tig it all? I'll stick to rubber hoses lolol
Posh!
Meep
Kkkk
WD40 is a penetrant not a lubricant.
I used to argue that, til I found out it's basically fish oil, not as much lubricity as needed for bearings, but perfectly fine as an install lube. Nice and light, no residue to worry about.
No need for those race fittings on that old turd of a engine. It is like putting a giant carbon GT wing on a Yugo. You kids know they make OE fitment cooling products right?
Phone User get to know what makes builds unique..average backyard builder would use rubber i feel you
Old turd of an engine? BMW used to use production m10 blocks to make 1500hp F1 engines. They're fantastic little motors and easy to work on.
Adam Jordan That and they are trying to teach people how to build a cooling system in a roundabout way. I don't get why people cant understand that these guys are trying to teach us not just spend $300 on hoses for no reason.
Heh, are they spending your money on that car? No? Then shh, it's not your problem.