I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
Although off-topic re the Lab-Box, I had a negative comment re his developing technique using a water "stop" bath in this demo. Water doesn't stop anything. In fact, developing a film in chemical developer, then into water bath, then back and forth as required, is a classic method of contrast control in large format development, which I would have expected Matt to know. If your developing time is normally 12 or 15 minutes, then a water bath before fixed is not going to extend development a significant amount. But if as here, it is 4 minutes, using a water bath in lieu of stop bath is just extending development at a reduced rate until it is replaced with fixer. You sure as hell don't add a water bath and "go to lunch". Frankly, using a B&W development time of less than 4 minutes is just looking for trouble and inconsistent development from roll to roll. I'm anal about my development technique, and I'd never choose a film/developer combination requiring less than 5 minutes.
What about water stop bath in the case of stand development with 1+100 Rodinal though ? I just did that a couple days ago and my negatives look totally fine. But is there a risk they will become damaged over time ?
@@psirvent8 As I noted. when you are using long development times, the effective difference between using water and stop bath becomes insignificant because the a minute or two additional development in a water dilution isn't much different than an immediate termination of development in a stop bath. So, in a stand development process, usually using a development time of an hour, and with highly diluted developer. following development with a water bath is almost irrelevant. You could as easily skip any interim bath and go directly to a fixer.
If your camera uses auto rewind and doesn't leave a leader exposed, you can use a leader retriever. They're easy to use and usually only cost a couple of dollars.
If you read the manual, most have the option to leave the leader out. Nikon allowed this even starting with the F90. The trick is to find the way to configure it.
nice video, BUT.. Ilford also make a B&W film developing kit called their "simplicity" line, these have All the chemistry, BUT at lower volumes (2-3 rolls of film~ 500Ml solution you can produce from this kit- from memmory of the video, Need to check the msds/datasheets for the kit), so perfict if you are doing only a few rolls at home (to tide yourself over until you can access a proper darkroom again).
You are correct! The simplicity line is a great choice if you're developing a roll every now and then and want to cut down on waste. That said, if you're in a situation where this may be the only form of a "darkroom" you have access to and you need to develop more frequently, buying chemistry in bulk might be more financially viable in the long run.
Do you have issues with how the film loads onto the reel? I've developed 15-20 rolls of film (35mm and 120) and nearly every roll has issues with film touching at different points causing it to not develop correctly. The user has no control over how the film loads onto the reel and it never slides onto the rails like it is supposed to. I also have issues with the film getting crinkled along the edges. Any recommendations?
This is a tough one and honestly have never heard of this happening with the Lab-Box. Because this likely will take a lengthier answer, I would want you to be in contact with our film and darkroom specialist, Mat. You can contact him at mat(at)mpex(dot)com.
I had two times posting of emulsion on first frame. I asked to several expert and in a forum and all confirm that is a mechanic problem (not chemical). I realised that probably when film exits from reel it may be scracted by clamp
You do not say whether you are having this problem of film edge damage on 35mm, 120, or both, so this is something of a shot in the dark. Possibilities: (1) You are not centering the leader clip, that is, clipping right in the exact middle of the film. When the leader is drawing the film onto the reel, is it critical to have equal pressure on both sides of the film as it loads. (2) The LabBox reels were completely redesigned right before manufacturing started. The new designs may have some issues. Of course, it is critical that the reel flanges are properly mounted on the center core. There is nothing mechanically preventing you from mounting them 180 degrees out of alignment from each other. The reels spirals must be matching each other. The instructions state that there are guide marks and arrows imprinted in the core and reels flanges to guide assembly, but the instructions are vague and the marking on the parts may be very faint or missing. (On mine, they are useless.) (3) Films which use a particular type of plastic base simply do not mount properly. Nothing in the instructions about this, as apparently not discovered until users complained. See company's website for a list of films not usable in the Lab-Box.(4) Loading film onto the reel requires a smooth, relatively slow procedure. If you crank the winder too fast, you can create too much "pull" pressure on the film and cause it to collapse onto the next lower groove rather than spacing properly on the reel spiral.
@@randallstewart175 I feel like I am pretty careful about attaching the clip properly to the film and loading it onto the reel. The crinkling is usually on the edges. I've also double checked the assembly of my reel and it is good to go. The film pieces getting stuck together is all over. I've started filling the tank with warm water when I load the film onto the reel and I roll it slowly to ensure all of the film is wet as it loads. Since starting to use this technique I've had very few problems with my 120 film, but still having issues with the 35mm. That tells me the 35mm reel is not loading the film correctly onto the rail and keeping space between each layer of the coil. Could just be my particular reel, but I will screenshot your recommendations and pay attention to them next time. Thanks for your response.
Hi Joe, I think for the purpose of demonstration and proof of concept, Mat skipped the rinse process here he does normally rinse every batch he develops :)
First time? Congrats we're super excited for you to get started! We recommend only black and white for the Lab Box and luckily, ilford makes a simplicity kit (includes 4 chemicals for developing b&w) that can help you develop two rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120 with the lab box! We have it in stock! mpex.com/ilford-b-w-simple-film-kit.html
Typically Mat does wash after fixing, that said for the purposes of showing that the film was developed in this video in a timely manner, he opted to skip that step, but it is important!
Hey Vivica! Mat uses powdered chemicals he mixes himself like D-76 (or FPP D96) and advises to wait 24 hours after mixing to mitigate any issues with specks of unmixed developer. You can also used premixed developer in the Lab Box as well. If you have questions you can always give us a call at 614-261-1264.
We sell them! Give us a call at 614-261-1264 or check out our go-to in our darkroom for black and white HC110 (just needs a little dilution with water: mpex.com/kodak-hc-110-developer-quart-to-make-4-gallons.html
@@pottymoufstudios2985 According to our dark room specialist here at our company, if its a liquid developer that you've diluted or mixed, it's ready to go once mixed well. Dry chemicals (powders) require a bit more time.
Not an issue with Midwest Photo (which is a great company), but I despise Lab-Box's marketing. (1) They act like/allude that they invented this. The fact of the matter is that Lab-Box is a straight up copycat version of the decades' old Agfa Rondinax daylight loading tank (th-cam.com/video/Gdc6T6ydARQ/w-d-xo.html). (2) If you listen to them, using a changing bag is like such a nightmare. Like, "Oh my god, I can't develop my film without a darkroom because using a changing bag is sooooo soooooo difficult, such a nightmare! I can't deal with it. Thank god for Lab-Box!" Really?
I don't know what skills you mean. If you've ever used this device, you know that it leaves as much room to hone your skills as a washing machine does when you close the lid. After wroting my comment I've switched to traditional tank (which actually aquire some skill) and I have no problems what so ever. In my opinion existence of such device have just no sense. But You can have Your opinion and and positive expirience i guess. And we could just leave it like this. But in my opinion there are some designs flods (like assuming same springiness of developed material and not assuming change of smoothness and friction of material that box is created of and it's wearing in time...) having that in mind I have to say it's heavily overpriced. Especially when You compare it with traditional tanks.
So after I’ve paid $15 for the film, then $50 for the chemicals for a 12 shot roll of film. $65 for 12 shots@ $5.50ea. shot. Just to get to this stage. I was going to get into this, but now it seems just too expensive.
Chemicals are good for many, many rolls. My cost to develop is ~1$ a roll. Chems aren't a one-time use. Also, the chemicals I use (Cinestill) are 20-30$ for 40+ rolls.
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Just purchased one so excited to start developing my own film hopefully all goes well
I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
Very good, detailed video. Want this! Thanks.
Good straightforward video
Although off-topic re the Lab-Box, I had a negative comment re his developing technique using a water "stop" bath in this demo. Water doesn't stop anything. In fact, developing a film in chemical developer, then into water bath, then back and forth as required, is a classic method of contrast control in large format development, which I would have expected Matt to know. If your developing time is normally 12 or 15 minutes, then a water bath before fixed is not going to extend development a significant amount. But if as here, it is 4 minutes, using a water bath in lieu of stop bath is just extending development at a reduced rate until it is replaced with fixer. You sure as hell don't add a water bath and "go to lunch". Frankly, using a B&W development time of less than 4 minutes is just looking for trouble and inconsistent development from roll to roll. I'm anal about my development technique, and I'd never choose a film/developer combination requiring less than 5 minutes.
What about water stop bath in the case of stand development with 1+100 Rodinal though ?
I just did that a couple days ago and my negatives look totally fine.
But is there a risk they will become damaged over time ?
@@psirvent8 As I noted. when you are using long development times, the effective difference between using water and stop bath becomes insignificant because the a minute or two additional development in a water dilution isn't much different than an immediate termination of development in a stop bath. So, in a stand development process, usually using a development time of an hour, and with highly diluted developer. following development with a water bath is almost irrelevant. You could as easily skip any interim bath and go directly to a fixer.
I can't imagine this would be practical for users of newer SLRs that don't have the ability to rewind and leave the leader exposed.
If your camera uses auto rewind and doesn't leave a leader exposed, you can use a leader retriever. They're easy to use and usually only cost a couple of dollars.
If you read the manual, most have the option to leave the leader out. Nikon allowed this even starting with the F90. The trick is to find the way to configure it.
@@billrosmus6734 for some Nikon's (we believe the F100 at least) it requires a special software or firmware, but yes this is possible!
I loved this video! so insightful! im hoping for one for Christmas :)
Very cool!
I miss my old own darkroom!
If you're ever in Columbus OH, we have a rentable one in our store!
Great video thanks!
It may hold 500mL but the instructions say to use 250mL.....
Podría haber mostrado como quedan las fotos...Igual bien la caja lab
nice video, BUT.. Ilford also make a B&W film developing kit called their "simplicity" line, these have All the chemistry, BUT at lower volumes (2-3 rolls of film~ 500Ml solution you can produce from this kit- from memmory of the video, Need to check the msds/datasheets for the kit), so perfict if you are doing only a few rolls at home (to tide yourself over until you can access a proper darkroom again).
You are correct! The simplicity line is a great choice if you're developing a roll every now and then and want to cut down on waste. That said, if you're in a situation where this may be the only form of a "darkroom" you have access to and you need to develop more frequently, buying chemistry in bulk might be more financially viable in the long run.
2:33 Shouldn't there be two metal rods on top of the film cutter blade? You seem to have lost one..
As ars-imago lab-box, Developing film negatives except dark. Don't expose film into sunlight?
Do you have issues with how the film loads onto the reel? I've developed 15-20 rolls of film (35mm and 120) and nearly every roll has issues with film touching at different points causing it to not develop correctly. The user has no control over how the film loads onto the reel and it never slides onto the rails like it is supposed to. I also have issues with the film getting crinkled along the edges. Any recommendations?
This is a tough one and honestly have never heard of this happening with the Lab-Box. Because this likely will take a lengthier answer, I would want you to be in contact with our film and darkroom specialist, Mat. You can contact him at mat(at)mpex(dot)com.
I had two times posting of emulsion on first frame. I asked to several expert and in a forum and all confirm that is a mechanic problem (not chemical). I realised that probably when film exits from reel it may be scracted by clamp
You do not say whether you are having this problem of film edge damage on 35mm, 120, or both, so this is something of a shot in the dark. Possibilities: (1) You are not centering the leader clip, that is, clipping right in the exact middle of the film. When the leader is drawing the film onto the reel, is it critical to have equal pressure on both sides of the film as it loads. (2) The LabBox reels were completely redesigned right before manufacturing started. The new designs may have some issues. Of course, it is critical that the reel flanges are properly mounted on the center core. There is nothing mechanically preventing you from mounting them 180 degrees out of alignment from each other. The reels spirals must be matching each other. The instructions state that there are guide marks and arrows imprinted in the core and reels flanges to guide assembly, but the instructions are vague and the marking on the parts may be very faint or missing. (On mine, they are useless.) (3) Films which use a particular type of plastic base simply do not mount properly. Nothing in the instructions about this, as apparently not discovered until users complained. See company's website for a list of films not usable in the Lab-Box.(4) Loading film onto the reel requires a smooth, relatively slow procedure. If you crank the winder too fast, you can create too much "pull" pressure on the film and cause it to collapse onto the next lower groove rather than spacing properly on the reel spiral.
@@randallstewart175 I feel like I am pretty careful about attaching the clip properly to the film and loading it onto the reel. The crinkling is usually on the edges. I've also double checked the assembly of my reel and it is good to go.
The film pieces getting stuck together is all over. I've started filling the tank with warm water when I load the film onto the reel and I roll it slowly to ensure all of the film is wet as it loads. Since starting to use this technique I've had very few problems with my 120 film, but still having issues with the 35mm. That tells me the 35mm reel is not loading the film correctly onto the rail and keeping space between each layer of the coil. Could just be my particular reel, but I will screenshot your recommendations and pay attention to them next time. Thanks for your response.
Isn't it inconvenient to retire the film from the camera and keep a bit of it outside the canister, or eventually to tear out a few centimetres out?
It depends on how you prefer to shoot, some people are okay with using a leader retriever and some shooters know the tricks to keep the leader out!
If your camera automatically rewinds the film all the way into the canister, how do you load the film into the box?
There is a tool for that called film retriever tool which is the most common. There is also other methods.
so you don't rinse after fixing ??
Hi Joe, I think for the purpose of demonstration and proof of concept, Mat skipped the rinse process here he does normally rinse every batch he develops :)
Can you please comment the links for the chemicals to use? First time developing film!
First time? Congrats we're super excited for you to get started! We recommend only black and white for the Lab Box and luckily, ilford makes a simplicity kit (includes 4 chemicals for developing b&w) that can help you develop two rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120 with the lab box! We have it in stock! mpex.com/ilford-b-w-simple-film-kit.html
Why don't you wash the film after fixing?
Typically Mat does wash after fixing, that said for the purposes of showing that the film was developed in this video in a timely manner, he opted to skip that step, but it is important!
Isn't this another glorified AGFA RONDINAX, without the Thermometer?
Is it a modern daytime development tank? Yes. Is it glorified? Seems a little harsh, it's good quality!
Did you mix your chemicals or are they already premixed?
Hey Vivica! Mat uses powdered chemicals he mixes himself like D-76 (or FPP D96) and advises to wait 24 hours after mixing to mitigate any issues with specks of unmixed developer. You can also used premixed developer in the Lab Box as well. If you have questions you can always give us a call at 614-261-1264.
@@MidwestPhoto where can I get pre mixed chemicals?
We sell them! Give us a call at 614-261-1264 or check out our go-to in our darkroom for black and white HC110 (just needs a little dilution with water: mpex.com/kodak-hc-110-developer-quart-to-make-4-gallons.html
@@MidwestPhoto can you start developing right after you mixed the chemicals?
@@pottymoufstudios2985 According to our dark room specialist here at our company, if its a liquid developer that you've diluted or mixed, it's ready to go once mixed well. Dry chemicals (powders) require a bit more time.
Not an issue with Midwest Photo (which is a great company), but I despise Lab-Box's marketing. (1) They act like/allude that they invented this. The fact of the matter is that Lab-Box is a straight up copycat version of the decades' old Agfa Rondinax daylight loading tank (th-cam.com/video/Gdc6T6ydARQ/w-d-xo.html). (2) If you listen to them, using a changing bag is like such a nightmare. Like, "Oh my god, I can't develop my film without a darkroom because using a changing bag is sooooo soooooo difficult, such a nightmare! I can't deal with it. Thank god for Lab-Box!" Really?
NEVER! Never, buy this thing i can't count 120 rolls i destroyed using this .
Skill issue
I don't know what skills you mean. If you've ever used this device, you know that it leaves as much room to hone your skills as a washing machine does when you close the lid. After wroting my comment I've switched to traditional tank (which actually aquire some skill) and I have no problems what so ever. In my opinion existence of such device have just no sense. But You can have Your opinion and and positive expirience i guess. And we could just leave it like this. But in my opinion there are some designs flods (like assuming same springiness of developed material and not assuming change of smoothness and friction of material that box is created of and it's wearing in time...) having that in mind I have to say it's heavily overpriced. Especially when You compare it with traditional tanks.
@@user-mm2jg7pn7b I have this and use it often. Have never had an issue with it
So after I’ve paid $15 for the film, then $50 for the chemicals for a 12 shot roll of film. $65 for 12 shots@ $5.50ea. shot. Just to get to this stage.
I was going to get into this, but now it seems just too expensive.
Chemicals are good for many, many rolls. My cost to develop is ~1$ a roll. Chems aren't a one-time use. Also, the chemicals I use (Cinestill) are 20-30$ for 40+ rolls.