Developing C-41 Film at home made easy
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Check out my Street Photography zines & Lightroom Color Profiles: 👉 bit.ly/3QrSoq1
I am getting a lot of questions about developing film at home, so I thought it would be a good idea to make a video about how I develop color negative film at home. It is very easy and with the new CineStill TCS1000 it very simple to get the temperature spot on.
Hope you enjoy the episode, see you in the next video! :)
👉 Settings for low light STREET PHOTOGRAPHY:
• Settings for low light...
👉 I don't shoot from the hip, here is why:
• Shooting from the hip ...
👉 How to master manual focus:
• 5 Tips | HOW TO MASTER...
👉 How I scan 35mm film | Part 1:
• How I scan 35mm film |...
👉How I scan 35mm film | Part 2
• How I scan 35mm film |...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blog // www.robinschimk...
Instagram // / the_real_sir_robin
FYI, the Cinestill device is just a Sous Vide machine, they are usually cheaper than the Cinestill branded one, you can buy a cooking one and achieve the same result.
I really love how calm your demeanor is. When I'm developing film I'm always in a state of panic, but you are so chill and I love that.
Haha! What is the worst thing that, could happen? It's only film, nothing life threatening. 😁
I’m the same 😂. I’m always going “WHERES THE THEMOMETER, WHERE IS IT” 😂
How come? because of maintaining times when developing?
I overshot one development recently by 30 seconds or so and the images still were perfect.
😆after watching this I'm laughing like there's nooo way I can see myself just chillin like this without being stressed and 2nd guessing everything I did after I triple checked😂
I suppose it depends on what was shot. I personally know someone who had a chance to photograph this woman. He only had one shot at doing this? You know what he did? He photographed her using both film and digital cameras. This way, if he messed up the film during the development process, he'd still have digital photos of the subject. She wasn't wearing any clothes. This is why he wanted to develop the film himself. Taking it to a lab wasn't an option for him.
Do you mean to tell me that all my film gear, which is gathering dust because I refused to get rid of it, even when everyone told me that I was crazy, can be used again?? Well, this is fantastic!!
In the 90s i worked in a shop where it was my job to replace the chemistry in a kiosk machine. After about a year and a half of doing this once a week i developed a sensitivity to something in the photo chemicals. 25 years later if i go into the gardening section of a store, even a tiny whiff of the the chemicals they sell cause an instant, uncomfortable reaction. This is mostly like having a cold but ive heard people talking about chemical sensitivities suddenly getting bad to the point of causing significant health problems. Personally, I will wear a respirator when developing film but its probably an idea to at least have some ventilation.
Always read the SDS sheets of the chemicals you are working with at least this closely. They will have all the info you need on if it is a sensitizer or even what type of respiratory protection you need at certain concentrations. I do a lot of stuff with 3d printing and some of the resins for the resin printers are pretty nasty sensitizers. There are stories of people working with them for a couple years without gloves then all of a sudden developing a terrible blistering rash with any skin contact with the resin. Just keep in mind that with any respirator you are going to need organic vapor cartridges to protect against most chemicals and even then you have to make sure the cartridge is rated for the chemical you are being exposed to. The other big mistake i see people making all the time is when wearing a respirator you need to be clean shaven. This is why the military does not allow beards facial hair interferes with the seal on tight fitting respirators. The big takeaway is if you are going to wear a respirator make sure its actually going to protect you from the chemical you are working with and that you have a good seal so it can keep that chemical out.
you’re my hero. i recently started shooting my street photography on film; it cost me $50 to get three rolls developed and scanned. never again.
Steve K lol i went out and bought an espn v550 😂
I miss the time when film dev was everywhere. I missed it out totally because I was convinced I should make b&w pics to develop - that was stupid
Steve K that’s what I do
This was a video which helped me a lot. Note from my side. Thermometer is all you need and most of the case sink will hold the temperature just fine. I keep my canisters with 'magic chemistry' in the fridge. Take them out, put in hottest tap water in your sink and with a bit of experience you will handle just fine. Thanks for great input and very professional video!.
After getting color film back from GOOD labs with spots and whatever else, I decided I should be able to do this myself. If there are spots and I processed the film, my fault. I've been developing B&W forever. I watched this, got the Tetenal, got the water heater, and my life has changed! It's so easy I don't know why I waited so long. :-)
so, 20-25 films for this 1L of developer? amazing ! I think this is the third or fourth time I’m watching this video
When pouring 102 solution into a Patterson tank (with two 35mm reels), you'll lose about 1~2 degrees in working solution temperature. It's best to use stainless steel tanks to develop color film. The alternative is to increase a sous vide from 102F to 103,104, or even 108 deg F as some people have used. The Paterson tank headspace will also cool down the chem as you agitate, the end result is 98 degrees by the time you finish with the first process.
I was taught that the Dev time should be the time you start pouring in the Dev to the time you start pouring in the Stop or Blix in the case of C-41.. not the time you pour out the Dev solution. Of course you will need to be ready to pour in the next solution in rapid succession, not messing with your mobile while the remaining droplets on your film cause processing blemishes.. now, here is a useful tip.. record a verbal cue for the complete process as an audio file on your phone, complete with countdowns to each key point in the process, and start that playing before you start with a countdown lead in the just follow your own verbal instructions in real time. It keeps your hands free to exercise the tasks. That's a bit of German logic, courtesy of the UK. 😮
Really nicely summed up video!
I've been wanting to get into film photography and I feared c41 developing would be much scarier than this based the little I had heard about it. Now I wanna give it a shot!
So I ruined my first batch of film lol! I'm actually not sure if I messed something up, or if it was my camera, or the scanning process or something with the chemicals. Regardless, I'm not giving up! I will perfect this!
Mistakes happen! Yes, keep going! 👏
I noticed your temperature control was.... not great not terrible. You need to keep the temperature of the chemicals (not the bath) to the exact 38C and keep it there. I do it by letting it bath for around 30 minutes. Always keep the tank in the bath. Only take it out for the liquid exchange. It's best to keep the temp of all liquids 38. See this page: analoguephotolab.com/mistakes-with-color-negatives/
Thank you! Simplified the process. Getting ready to do the same. E6 would be helpful.
👏
Notice the tetenal magicbox e6 - 15E and it's great. It says 1 shot dev. but I develop 3 rolls from single box
I have only developed black and white before. I found this video super helpful. Thank you for walking through this process and giving me the confidence to tackle C-41 development!
I like the idea of using a salad spinner to accelerate drying the film. Yes, please do show E6 processing.
stupid me. I always agitated the whole tank and it always got messy. I even bought a tank that holds three 120 rolls and that got very messy and the rolls came out pretty bad too. I'm going to just use this technique of just spinning them without lifting the whole tank and flipping it like a mad man every 30 seconds. Also, after each time I would flip it, I would open the lid again and rotate as well. Just a real messy situation and I considered selling all my developing tools. Thanks to this I'm going to try again and save money because I was giving it to a photo shop.
Yeah, that was the part that was really annoying and I am glad that it isn't really necessary. 🙏
that cinestill machine can cook steak & fish also lol...
btw, did not rinse between develop&blix, result as that smell
There is no need for rinsing in between. 😉
@@therealsirrobin you can make a rinse for 30" to avoid cross contamination and prserve the chemistry
you can use an android APP called Lab Timmer', it has pre determined timers for all colour processes
@@vaneaauzeac4401 Isn't it necessary to rinse after the stabilizer too?
@@csabapapp8481 with condition to use distiller water and fotoflo
Now I feel calm starting to develop 😂 Great video. thanks
When processing ANY film be sure the temperature of ALL chemicals AND WASH WATER are the EXACT SAME TEMPERATURE. If there is a temperature difference the result will be reticulation - the emulsion and the film base will expand and contract at different rates causing minute "cracks" in the emulsion. This will appear on your print as "larger grain" resulting in (probably) unwanted reduction of sharpness. - Bruce, former professional photographer.
Thanks a lot for this video and all the details during film processing! Much appreciate how you share experience with newbies like me. Good luck with what you plan to do next!
Thats actually far easier than I imagined I’ve done b n w before but always shied away from c41 thanks for this new sub for ya mate
👌
I pronounce thermometer as ther-mom-it-er, but your pronunciation made me realise why the word is the way it is. It is a meter for measuring thermal stuff, a thermo-meter!
You made it look very easy and clean, no spills. I’d try it soon!
🤯..... Mind Blown ! .... Will have a go at this over the next few weeks :)
Sure, especially considering the cracy prices in NZ, it's a very good idea. 👌
I always thought developing colour film was difficult, but you made it look very easy. Thanks for sharing this. 👍
In the 80's I use to find film developing so relaxing, C41, E-6. Paper, Cibachrome, Ektacolor and Ektachrome. The trick is cleanliness, consistency and contamination avoidance. There's the magic of unrolling the film and looking at the wet milky images.
I succeded on my first try. With a lomochrome film. So proud 😸
Excellent. Yes, please do E6
Yes, Please do an E6 one, and not just 35 mm stock, but can you do some 120 as well.
You didn't show us your pics! I also have the Cinestill temperature regulator, great thing
Thanks for your work and sharing your video! It's so helpful!
Very straight forward explanation. Good video ! Blix is nasty stuff, I had my own experience with it . Anyway nice to see it in a clean way. ✌🏼
Excellent and very helpful video, thank you.
Just do this.
*HITS WITH DOUBT*
Great video!! Thank you! I really want to try developing my own film now!
Go for it!
Thank you Kind Sir, that was marvellous and motivating.
Great video, can you show us how you scan or maybe you have already a video about that ??
Thanks for sharing
I already did videos on scanning. However, I will do an update one in the not so distant future. 👌
You made it look nice and simple, great video 😊
Thank you!
That is a nice looking souvid stick
what do you do with the chemical once they're expired? do you just pour it down the drain or you have to dispose it specially?
Thanks for the excellent tutorial
That fancy "temperature control" thing looks and sounds exactly like the "sous vide"-cooker I use. I have a model called aicok sv-8001. You can get those on ebay
I assume cinestill took an already existing sous vide cooker (that many amateur developers use) and got it produced with new label (and price tag ;-) )
The cinestill TCS 1000 is basically a re-branded Sous-Vide . Just get a cheap sous-vide and you're fine.
Messed up c41 for years. Tried tetenal, Bellini and kodak mostly with bad results. Going to try that Hong Kong lab next at 3 dollars a film cheaper than home processing.
very helpful! Hope see more "how I shoot"👍👍👍
Will come later this year!
Thanks, that's easier than I thought, I gonna try it :)
Great movie. Thank you very much. I am interested in the E6 development movie. I hope you do it.
It's already on the channel!
Vielen Dank für das tolle Video. Ich werde nächsten Monat mal mit der Entwicklung starten :)
Danke dir Tobias! 🙂
Vielleicht könntest du mir noch zwei Fragen beantworten:
1) Muss der Entwickler unbedingt in einem Lichtdichten Gefäß gelagert werden oder reicht auch ein normales? (Die Chemikalien werden natürlich dunkel gelagert, es geht nur um den Behälter)
2) Versteh ich das Richtig das du mit einem angemischten Liter Entwickler ca. 25 Filme entwickelst? Also mit dem Gesamten Kit dann ca. 63 Filme?
Schon einmal vielen Dank 😊
awesome video, this is how a great tutorial should be. excellent.
Thank you very much!
Don't waste your money on that cine still rubbish, if you want to go this route you can buy a generic "sous vide" immersion circulator for less than half the price and it will do the exact same job.
was scrolling through the comments looking for anyone else thinking "bullshit thats a cheapo sous vide stick" 🤣
I can't give any source, but I read somewhere that the CineStill one is calibrated for more precision at a lower temperature range ( ~20-45 degrees celsius), so it could be more precise. If it actually matters that much with modern chemicals, I wouldn't know.
@@SatumangoTheGreat More precise than that meat thermometer he's using?
It would be great, if you make a video about developing Black and White film.
Will do that for sure, should come first half of this year!
How much liquid do you put inside? It seems you pour it approximately
also interested in this
The patterson tank need 500ml for one roll (thats important or otherwise you will get stains from the air in your tank!) and 600ml for two rolls.
Hello Sir Robin. Welcome back.
I wasn't gone.👏
Thank you so much for this video! It's not rocket science as I thought! I will try for sure!
Just one quick question about the Cinestill gadget. What will be the advantages over a regular sue vide gadget where you can do C-41 and steaks? 😂
Haha! Yes, it's super easy and most people should have no trouble developing color negative film at home.
@@therealsirrobin So, if I'm buying a sue vide gadget I will do alright?
@@JuanKis the cinestill product looks very much like an already available sue vide product.
@@oJ862 Thank you! I just bought one on AliExpress for $50! Thank you!
Juan Kis it’s the same thing. I have one too. You’ll be fine.
Yeah! E6 please! 👌
How long is the shelf life? Do you add time to the development every couple of rolls to compensate? And how many rolls do you generally get out of one batch of chemistry?
Shelf life of C-41 chemistry depends on the brand - you can buy chemistry for original process with a separate bleach and fix. Also, there is the Tetenal version made nowadays by many different companies with a combined bleach-fix, "blix". With the latter, mixed bleach-fix is often the first to fail after a few months. Original version has a bleach and fix that last almost forever, but part C of the color developer will fail eventually, no matter how well you store it. This happens in 3-6 months after opening the bottle. It will turn almost black (it should be colorless or light yellow). This happens without warning. This part contains CD-4, the color developing agent, and after oxidizing it will not work properly. Before opening it will keep very well - for years. Mixed chemistry will keep for a few months (not two weeks as some manufacturers claim). If the developer turns dark and opaque, don´t use it, as it can ruin your film. With one liter, you can safely develop at least 12 films 135/36, probably over 20. Just look for your developer changing color to almost black, or for any deviations in negatives. Color casts may appear if chemistry is old or exhausted. Mix a new batch if needed.
Time could be added to the development time. What needs to be said, you can seldom control a process by hand in a tank with an one-second accuracy. You must count pouring your chemistry in and out, and it will work at least partially until the next stop. We are talking about 15 seconds longer developer time after about 6-8 rolls, as standard time for C-41 color developer is just 3 min 15 sec. I mean, you can calculate a time of 3:27, but you probably would deviate from the standardized time anyway by 12 seconds. I this video, the development time is extended for about 30 seconds because of waiting and talking when blix should be poured immediately This is much more than the time needed for compensating for exhausted developer.
I never heard about the Cinestill, thanks way cheaper than JOBO !
Really cool. Thanks for posting.
Hello Sir Robin. Thank you for your video: seems simple enough but you do have mastered the procedure and the material. I have two questions: 1/what do you do wuth the chemicals once they're out of order?? and 2/do you just leave the film to dry or do you wipe it? Thans again for your videos
Hello Nicholas. I can collect old chemicals in a cannister and bring it to a recycling facility that most cities in Germany have. And I don't wipe the film.
A very nice informative video. But I have a few doubts: Can you explain what was added at 6:59 of the video from the translucent jug? Was it a distilled water or what is that fluid did you fill the Paterson Tank with ? Also how many films do you think can be developed with one Tetenal c-41 kit? Do these chemicals require to be stored in a room temperature or in a refrigerator? Please reply.
May I ask a stupid question? When you're agitating, are you just spinning in one direction or are you turning backwards and forwards?
Bring on E6!
E6 is +1 bottle more. Exactly the same thing. Actually even the blix and stab are exactly the same substance as for C41
Thank you for the great demonstration! how many times this chemical can use?and if the developing time will change after a few times uses?
1L of mixed developer lastets me for more than 20 rolls but you have to compensate by adding time. How much is described in the manual.
I would like to see E6 and it's cost. Thanks for sharing
how long do u keep ur chemicals, if u haven’t used it that much ? i mean both in the mixed bottles and the chemicals as them self.
great videos btw. !!
Great video Robin! I bought a 2L kit and decided to mix all the powder at once and put half away for later but I may have mixed the powder in 1400ml of water rather than the 1600ml recommended, and then topped it up with more water to make around 2L. Will this affect the agitation time when I am developing in my tank?
Great ! Nice n easy ! Does the stabiliser have a wetting agent to help avoid drying marks ?
No, that's an extra step right at the end.
Robin, have you seen the Filmomat developing machine? It'd be a great investment if you're shooting a lot of film and need to develop it. It is expensive, but I think it'd be worth the investment.
Eine Frage:
I have ordered the exact same kit and in the instructions it shows that I can mix up different working solutions, i.e. 0.5 l, 1.0l or 2.5l.
My question is if I only mix up 0.5l does that also get me that same amount of developments that it says on the box or does it have to be 2.5l for that to be possible?
Danke im Voraus und LG aus Zürich
Very nice video ! So we one liter of chemistry we can go up to 25 rolls ? No need to replenish ?
Is replenishing possible to save even more costs and make more rolls ?
Very helpful video! I have one question tho! What to do with the water from the pre-wash and in between washs?! Is it safe to just dispose in the sink?
Great video, just ordered a Tetenol kit, have developed black and white but new to colour. I noticed that you didn't wash film after the stabiliser, is it not required un like black and white when using fixer?
No, it's not required!
Did you actually develop 25 rolls of film with your 1 liter of prepared chemicals? -- Nice that you presented Cinestill's temperature control system. Now I definitely know it is not for me (using warm water from the tap is much faster and cheaper for me). Thanks, you saved me some money there :-)
Yes I did that. You have to keep the water at a specific temperature and I am not sure if that is possible with tap water. It's not a problem when developing the first couple of rolls because the temperature isn't dropping that fast but developing times get longer with used chemicals and then it will get an issue. The TCS 1000 makes the whole process a lot easier.
so u dont use a squeegee or any wipe in the negative when it hangs?? or any photoflo??
Stabilizer = photoflow
Let see the results~~~!
Thanks for the video very informative.
I have a question.
Can I mix one box of the Tetenal Colortec chemistry, but develop only 3-4 films, and the chemistry store without air for the next development? If yes, how long can the liquid be stored and how I need to store it right?
What do you do with the exhausted chemicals? Are they more toxic than B&W chemicals?
There is a recycling facility in most german towns where you can easily get rid of it. 👍
Hi sir Robin !
I am learning developing negative film. I just finished watching your videos. Thnx you alot .
There is a few question I would like to ask you : is the time to develop all color films be the same even they are in different iso ? Example: one roll of portra 400 n one roll of Fuji color 200, will the developing time be the same ? Can I put both of them in the same tank to develop both together ?
Hope to hear from you 💕
Отличное видео! Большое спасибо!
Great video thank you :)
Hi, thanks for sharing your work. Big Fan! One question, is this chemistry works fine with Vision 3 500T? No issue with rem-jet layer? Like with your other video (Tetenal chemistry)? Thank again!
It's the same chemistry like in my other video. ✌️
whats the black cup? any link to that funny pot. thx! enjoy life stay healthy🙏🏻
Thank you Max! 😊
outstanding!
yes please make a video about developing fuji velvia 50
Velvia is unlikely, I don't shoot landscapes and for people Velvia isn't a good choice.
Sorry i forgot.
No worries. I have some Provia 100 instead. 👌
Thanks for the video. I have a stainless steel tank and reels that I used for black and white. Can I use it for color too?
Sure, that also works for color.
how long are you storing the chemicals for? or at which point would the age affect the result?
Hey great tuto thanks, my film looks good, I’m just worried that I have some droplets on the negative, they will disappear after dry or I miss something?
You have to use distilled water to mix the chemicals and then you should have no problems. 👌
@@therealsirrobin Distilled water. Confirmation I’ve been waiting for scrolling through the comments. I don’t recall hearing in the video which btw is a great tut. Look fwd to do my v first roll now. Thank you!
Do Ektachrome development process pl0x
one question: for how long did you leave the pre-wash in there? My first three attempts of developing resulted in a yellowish gradient coming from the sides of the film - not a possible light leak since I'm using a Hasselblad.
I saw that you didn't check the exact temperature of the pre-wash...
What it the quantity of each solution do you pour into the developing tank, can you provide details?
Very interesting thank you. Is your method for shaking film the same as for black and white film? I imagine so? thanks :)
Would love to see the E-6 version!
It's online since a while. 🙂
isn't it better to have a wash with water after each chemical?
How much time can you keep the chemicals before it is used ? Thx
Depends on the brand I guess. Have used the Tetenal kit over a couple of months and had no issues.
Great video! One important question I have is how much of each developer, Blix, stabiliser did you put in for 1 roll of 35mm film? its hard to tell from the video.
it should say on your developing tank
I heard that tetenal has shut down shop where did you get yours from buddy is it back stock
It's called new tetanal I think , a couple of workers bough the part of tetanal and they will sell the chemicals now
@@briansegarra9312 yeh ok I bought a 1ltr pack recently and they said as they did
Exactly, they also have their own online shop now.
yeh ok I will have to check that my darkroom supplier gave me that information his old school
Thanks for such a great video! Out of interest, how many rolls can you get through with all three chemicals and what do you do with the waste?
I would say at least 50 rolls (35mm). I collect the drained chemicals and bring them to a special recycling facility.
the_real_sir_robin thank you! and is that 50 rolls for all the chemicals or do these have different shelf lives?
'C4 at home'. I thought you'd moved to a different kind of chems, lol
Next time. 😅
@@therealsirrobin Explosive content, lol 😁
Hi - just a quick question. With all the chemicals, do you just keep pouring it into the tank until it is full?
Also, do you constantly use one funnel? Or do you have 3 different funnels for the different chemicals ?