Water Heater - Pressure Relief Valve | Repair and Replace
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- How do I replace a leaking pressure relief valve? In this episode of Repair and Replace, Vance shows how to replace the temperature and pressure relief valve in a gas or electric water heater. The T&P Valve is one of the most important safety features in a hot water tank. Over time the valve can become corroded and might not close all the way, causing water to leak out.
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00:00 Intro
00:54 What You'll Need
01:18 Disconnect the Water Heater
01:58 Drain the Water
02:52 Remove the Relief Valve
03:18 Replace the Relief Valve
04:17 Refill the Tank
05:05 Valve Opens Regularly?
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Need a new relief valve? Find an exact replacement on our website: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Temperature-Pressure-Relief-Valves-662940-HH41
Great 👍 video
@@randallnewbern9367 Thank you!
My pop valve just popped open and never shut off so I turned off the water to the house question is what do I need to replace
@@rockyreynolds4027 Thanks for watching. If the relief valve opened and didn't close properly then you'll have to install a new relief valve.
By far the best repair and replace videos. I love how you get right to the point; there's no fluff, biased opinions or non-stop gibberish as is in most all other repair videos by other people. You're straight forward, direct, concise, and knowledgeable. Perfectly done! I subscribed immediately after watching 2 videos. Your channel will be my #1 go to moving forward. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words, we're just happy that our videos are helping people. After watching hundreds of other tutorials, we have observed what helps us learn, and we've created a video format that makes sense to us and hopefully to many others. Cheers!
You guys are the best! Clear, concise, thorough and love the calm demeanor! I'm certainly a fan now!
Thank you Dana, we're glad to hear that you're enjoying our content! If you're curious we have an awesome playlist focused on "how it works". Full of a lot of great info: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
Guys, this is the kind of internet the utopians hoped for. Good people providing their knowledge for free, helping others.
I just followed your instructions to the letter and the job is done. Many thanks.
And happy new year!
You're welcome, we're just happy to contribute to the knowledge base on TH-cam. It takes a lot of effort to create videos of this quality but we feel that it's worth it! Cheers!
Great info, and thanks for your input. It is very clear and understandable 👌
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
I don't comment on a lot of Videos but I truly have to tell you that this Video is by far the BEST I've seen. Not only the wonderful knowledge but the calm and clarity in your voice is lovely! Thank You!
Thank you for your kind words! We're just happy that our videos are helping people out! We put a lot of time and effort making these videos easy to follow and we've got more on the way. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which you might find informative: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
I sprayed some WD40 in the valve where the spring is and let it leak for a whole day, then I released and closed the valve several times. And them I sprayed WD40 again and next day the leak stopped totally. The WD40 did loosen all the debris and calcification of water around the washer, the result a 20 years old Valve was functional like new and there absolutely no leak and saves you $39
@@beaujoe69That's $2 a year you saved for a safety critical piece of kit, good going! In fact, if you save all that money up, in only 5 years you'll be able to get a new can of WD40!
Thank you so much! This was super informative and so easy to follow. Everything explained perfectly! You've my mind at ease :)
You're very welcome! We're just happy to help and we try to put this same clarity in all our videos. For example here's one we did on multimeters and electricity basics, it has some great all around info: th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
Perfect tips. You covered the basics wonderfully. I replaced mine this morning, with your instructions, a 10 minute job at tops.
You're welcome Ross, we're glad that the video helped you with the repair!
Great video. Not only the information is concise , but the presentation is exquisite.
Thank you! We're glad that you found the video and the format helpful!
Just used this video. It was amazing. Plumber wasn’t even available and I got it fixed in less than 15 minutes. Thanks so much
You're welcome Carl! We're glad that the video helped you out!
Wonderful instructions! Thank you very much. Worked like a charm.
You're welcome Myroslav, we're glad that the video was helpful!
Hey , GREAT video ,
You went strait to the point.
Excellent teaching , and no bullshit .
your instructions are nice and clear
Thank you sir
You're welcome Rafael, we're glad you found it helpful.
Thank you for such a detailed video of how to change the pressure relief valve.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Excellent commentary and fine explanarion on how to replace the TMP Valve. Thanks, Ted.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
You are great. Very articulate. Thanks.
Thank you Harry! We're glad that you found it helpful!
Thank you so much, excellent explanation
You're welcome Mohammed! We're glad that you found it helpful!
Thanks for your insight and for sharing it with us.
You're welcome! We're glad you found it informative!
Good instructional video! Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
beautifully explained - awesome job - thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the informative video.
You're welcome Ali!
Excellent work!
Thank you!!
Thanks, helped me get it done
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Mine spits some water a few times a week and towards the end you answered my question.Thank you.I kept turning the water temperature down thinking this might help but nothing changed.Sounds like this is normal then.
We're glad that you stuck around for that part of the video! Yes thermal expansion can happen in a lot of cases. As long as its not a huge amount of water then its usually not a problem for most people. A expansion tank will get rid of the problem though.
Well done. Thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks this video is very helpful
You're welcome!
Great video, thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks,this is most clear and Excellent demostración ever, Congratulations.
You're welcome Pedro, we're glad that you found the video helpful!
that was great im having a problem with a leak that I cant find
Thanks for watching Ray. If your hot water tank is still leaking, then this video we made can help you identify the leak th-cam.com/video/u_MTFlN5Rjs/w-d-xo.html
thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks about show it
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
After blocking in the gas supply, why put the dial on pilot instead of in the off position? Thanks for your help & great video!
Hi Kelly thank you for watching, we're glad you found this helpful! In these kinds of repairs its best to use caution and make sure that the gas is completely off so we instruct to turn the gas supply off, the gas control on the valve off and to turn the dial down to the lowest which is the Pilot setting. The dial on these types of gas valves only have heat settings and "Pilot" and do not have a labled "off" position.
Ok mine actually has an off setting. Didn’t notice in the video there was no off position. Very explanatory thanks again!
@@kellynewman5160 Yes some models have an off on the dial, and some don't. We're happy to help out though!
Great Video,
I have an electric hot water tank, firstly i would switch on the breaker and turn on the cold water line. as soon as the water tank fills up, it then flows directly out from the t/p valve i think, what could be the problem?
Thanks for watching. The T&P relief valve opens when the temperature or pressure gets too high. Either the tank is overheating or the relief valve is not closing properly and is letting water flow out.
Try lowering the temperature to see if it helps. If not then it might be good to replace the relief valve. www.amresupply.com/catalog/Temperature-Pressure-Relief-Valves-662940-HH41
The pressure relief valve in this video that had the green label that you replaced, Watts SL100XL-3M7 is the exact same valve that I have, and need to replace. What length is the probe, 3" or 4" so I know what to order.
Thanks
Thanks for watching. Sorry for the delayed response, sometimes not all comments show up in our notification feed. The water heater that was used in this video is not readily visible so we're not sure the exact length of the probe on this. Matching the exact specs on the labels should be adequate for finding a replacement as it will behave the same as the original.
Thanks for the video! I h am working with a water heater that has tprTPR valve pipe that runs into the wall and drains outside. It currently has a rigid copper pipe running from the valve into the wall, and I want to replace it with a flexible copper pipe, is this safe? Any tips?
Thanks for watching. It depends who you ask but to make sure that is within compliance, you'd have to check your local plumbing codes as this might differ from region to region.
Hey there great video! I opened my relief valve to release any sediment and since closing there has been a constant small leak coming through it. Should I be replacing it tomorrow ?
Thank you Jon, we're glad you found it helpful. If there is a small continuous leak then the relief valve is not closing properly and should be replaced.
I'm on the same boat. Drained water heater tank to get rid of deposits. Pressure valve was closed when I was done. Seems like it's stuck open. Continuous hot water being drained.
What should I look for when buying new pressure valve besides PSI?
@@AzBlkHawk Thanks for watching. You'll want to match the PSI and BTU per hour as well as making sure the thread size is the same.
I just replaced mine and after testing it the 2nd time later in a day (when the heater got full again and hot) it started dripping again.. same reason why i replaced the old one. And now it's just cold water, on the first test it was warm. Fml
my old relief valve was super tight and took quite a bit of muscle to loosened. do i have to get the new back on to same level of tightness?
Thanks for watching. You'll want to tighten the new relief valve so it is in the same position. If you screw it in and you think you can still get another turn out of it before it starts to really tighten then it might be worth tightening down.
Be mindful that the "tightness" sometimes comes from the threads "sticking" from a little bit of corrosion. This can make the valve seem like it is tighter as it takes more effort to break it loose.
If your drain valve was clogged would you be able to drain the tank to below the pressure relief valve by draining with through the pressure relief valve?
Thanks for watching. Opening the relief valve will drain the tank to just below the relief valve. If your drain valve is clogged you can always try a backflush which is outlined in this video:th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html It can also be helpful to install a full port ball valve which is mentioned in that video. You can build it using a 3/4" brass nipple, 3/4" brass ball valve and a 3/4" brass garden hose adapter.
hi, this was nice video, one doubt what type of pressure relief value is this.?
Thanks for watching. This is a spring loaded relief valve that uses a sensing bulb. These are quite standard in water heaters: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Temperature-Pressure-Relief-Valves-662940-HH41
I replaced my pressure relief value today with the same brand that I had. However my new one did not have a white probe attached to it. Is the probe necessary?
Thanks for watching. There is some variation between models even if the same brand as before. As long as the relief valve has the same ratings then it should be good to go.
I have a T&P relief valve that leaks. How do I know whether it is the fault of the valve or just the normal operation of a closed system. I would like to know so as not to waste my money and time on a new relief valve if that is not the issue.
Thanks for watching. The relief valve uses a bulb and spring which is calibrated for a specific pressure and temperature. When the relief valve opens, its an all or nothing situation. It will release a good amount of water all at once. Afterwards the valve should close and no water should continue to come out. If the valve is slowly letting a small amount of water out then the relief valve is faulty and should be replaced.
Alliteratively if the relief valve opens regularly or once a day, but closes properly afterwards, then its most likely an issue with thermal expansion.
thanks for the great and easy to follow video. got this done on my gas water heater no problem very quickly. old one leaking after opening it for the first time in 5+ years.
only thing I wanted to ask is on the threads everyone seems to love Teflon tape, but wouldn't a thread cream be more durable given heat, etc?
You're welcome m4gician! We're glad you found it helpful!
Teflon tape will hold up under heat but you can use pipe joint compound as well. Pipe joint compound is generally easier to apply but tends to be a little more messy than tape. If you're curious we did a video on pipe joint compound: th-cam.com/video/a0jFPj4W8bY/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@AmreSupply Hi there, I think there may be an issue with the geyser in my apartment. It displays an increasing temperature, even though it is not turned on. Despite this, I have not been connecting the geyser since there is already hot water coming from the shower and sink. However, over the past few days, the arrow on the geyser has been moving upward, and today, it is between the two and three dots. The geyser is electric with 2 pipes (hot & cold) at the bottom. What could be the problem??
Thanks for watching. Is Geyser a brand of Tankless (on demand) Water heaters? It also sounds like your apartment likely has a boiler to supply hot water to all the units?
Is the directions the same for a solar water heater? I went outside to do laundry and there was no leak, but after wash load done, there was water dripping . It's been dripping for about an hour. How long should it go on leaking to relieve itself?
Thanks for watching. If the pressure or temperature gets too high the relief valve will open and let a good amount of water out all at once. After it will close and no water should be dripping. There might be a small amount of water left dripping for an hour but If there is a slow continuous leak several hours after the valve has closed then that's a sign that the valve isn't making a good seal, and it would be best to replace it.
Would have been nice if the video would have mentioned how to figure out if the valve is working first before changing out a good one.
Thanks for watching. The reasons for changing a relief valve are written in the video description. This video is focused on repairing a leaking relief valve, that is not closing properly or has worn out threads. Other than this simple opening / closing test: th-cam.com/video/d7SYbOgAYhc/w-d-xo.html there is no easy way to verify if the valve is performing as it should at the rated temperature.
I just installed a tankless water heater “fogatti” on my Rv travel trailer, Do I need to add a pressure relief valve ?
Thanks for watching. It's best to check your local plumbing codes for what is needed for the installation. Even though tankless water heaters don't have a sizable tank, there is still pressure so some sort of safety device is often needed if it isn't already included in the heater.
Hello, this video is amazing, I just had one question.on my new valve everything is exactly the same excet the old one says 100000 btu and the new one says 105000 btu. Will this be a problem?
Thanks for watching, we're really glad you found it helpful! When replacing a relief valve the (PSI) and the temperature (°F) must be matched as this means the pressure relief valve will open at the same conditions as the old one. The BTU / hour is the relieving capacity of the valve. The new valve must be the same or higher to be able to discharge enough water fast enough to protect the water heater. So in your case a greater BTU is perfectly ok.
@@AmreSupply thank you very much, I was unable to find any information on the subject on my own. Followed your instructions to a "T" this worked perfectly!
@@1000Ducks You're welcome, we're happy to help! Its good that the repair went smoothly! If you're curious, we have many more videos on our channel, for example here's one on multimeters and electricity. It might be a refresher or it might be new information for you, either way there are some good visualizations: th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
Omg thanks so much! A plumber just tried to charge me $500 to replace this valve smh
You're welcome Kaw Shin, we're glad the video helped you repair your water heater and save some money!
$500
That's highway robbery
@@raymondboone9717 tell me about it
$500 is more than DOUBLE of what you should be paying for this job. The guys a criminal.
I would say its a 80 or less job
Do I take it off to bring to the store to make sure it's the same size?
Thanks for watching. You can remove it and go to the store but you can also measure the thread diameter. Relief valves are usually 3/4" wide or 1" wide. As well the stem length might differ between tanks.
Then just match the temperature and BTU ratings and you'll be good to go.
My cooper pipe leads to the wall not down on my water heater. How to check the valve leakage in this case?
Thanks for watching. In this case its difficult to visually see if the valve closes all the way. You can still open the valve and close it and listen to it. If there are threads you might be able to disconnect the pipe to isolate the relief valve but this requires spinning the pipe, so my guess is that it might be difficult to access without cutting into it.
Our relief value kept on leaking and the guy who installed our hot water tank put a hot water expansion tank on the hot water side not cold. We live in the city with high PSI so unsure if this is normal? Checked today and noticed the relief valve bucket had small amounts of water in it again. Could the valve be bad? The water tank is only 6 months old.
Thanks for watching. The expansion tank can go on the hot side it will still protect against thermal expansion. If the relief valve has only opened once so far it is possible that it has just worked as intended and opened as the temperature got to the threshold. If it continues to open even when the tank seems to be working normally then it's a sign that the valve is wearing out. It normally takes more than 6 months for a relief valve to start having problems so it's best to keep an eye on it.
My release valve said 2,000 btu bu the replacement said 1,000 btu for prpane water heater. It fit but does the btu have to be the same? Thank you and God Bless you and your family everyone.
Hi Shauna, thank you for watching. PSI refers to the maximum pressure rating of the relief valve BTU is the maximum temperature rating that the relief valve can discharge.
Even though some relief valves have the same sized threads and can be screwed into the water heater, you must match both PSI and BTU or the relief valve will not properly function to protect the water heater.
@@AmreSupply Thank you so much, I will look for one at a different store exactly like mine. God Bless you and your family and everyone else.
@@bigrigchristfollower9020 You're welcome Shauna! All the best to you and your family as well!
How do you know when your temp and pressure relief valve needs replacing?
Thanks for watching. If the valve is leaking then it needs to be replaced. Alternatively if you test the valve and no water comes out then the valve has failed and will also need to be replaced. The valve needs to be able to open freely to protect the water heater from high temperatures and pressure.
Our brand new water heater pressure relief valve seems to discharge a very tiny amount of water from the brand new tank only when we take showers. only enough water to only saturate a few paper towels. This never happened on the old tank. Is it okay to put a bucket under the valve drain pipe and leave it be?
Hi Samuel, thanks for watching! Since that is only happening when you take showers what you are describing is the expansion of the cold water in the tank similar to what is shown at 5:22 . Best to keep monitoring it, but if its only a small amount then you'll be alright to just put a bucket under the drain tube. Overall an expansion tank would be needed to completely fix the problem.
@@AmreSupply much appreciated for your reply! I will monitor it and look into adding an expansion tank. I will subscribe to your channel!
@@samuelneil2691 We're happy to help and we're glad to have you as a subscriber!
Something is bothering me. If I open the cold water supply and the hot water exit to get wrid of air won't this just create a water flow? Should I allow the tank to fill up first before bleeding it? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching. If you only open up the hot water on the faucet, then water will only flow when there is enough pressure. If you open both the hot and cold then the cold will flow as it is still pressurized.
how to open pressure relief valve? It's spring is not working after i pulled the flip thingy too tight
Thanks for watching. It is possible that the relief valve is jammed or stuck closed. If this is the case then it would be best to install a new one.
Every time we take a shower we have water on the basement floor coming from the relief valve. No pan under the tank. Just moved in the house, should I just replace the valve or just put a bucket to catch the water?
Hi Derrick, thank you for watching. What you're describing is thermal expansion. This is solved by adding a thermal expansion tank. Putting a bucket to catch the water will prevent it from leaking onto the floor, but you'll likely have to empty it regularly.
Wait. So if I turn on the valve is there supposed to be water or no? I turned on ours and it keeps flowing with water. Is it supposed to empty after awhile while turn on or will it keep draining water when leave it on?
Thanks for watching. The relief valve is a safety valve which will open if the pressure or temperature gets too high, there is a spring inside that will automatically close the valve after some water has been discharged.
If you manually open the valve and lock it open it it will continue to flow until the water is below that line. If the cold supply line is open, then the water will not stop flowing out of the valve.
If the valve isn't closing properly, then you'll need to install a new relief valve.
Is it necessary to turn off the Main water valve before installation or just the cold water valve only? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Just turning off the cold water valve will be fine as this will prevent the water heater from filling when you are doing the repair.
@@AmreSupply Thank You. Really appreciate the response.
@@Indiana_Ape You're welcome!
Can you open the relief valve while everything is still connected?
Thanks for watching. Yes you can open the relief valve to test it manually. It will release a good amount of water so make sure you have a bucket.
How do I fit a dado rail with panel
Thanks for watching. Can you rephrase your question? I am not sure what you are asking.
BIG QUESTION HERE…. My pressure relief pipe will often dump boiling hot water constantly (like a hose on full blast) for literally hours at a time wasting TONS of water. What might be the problem? Any help appreciated
Thanks for watching. It could be a faulty relief valve and in some cases installing a new one might fix the problem. If it doesn't fix it then it could be an issue with thermal expansion which would need a thermal expansion tank to act as a buffer.
Any tips on a stuck valve? Can't turn it right or left and tried different wrenches.
Thanks for watching. You could use some penetrating oil and let it soak into the threads. As well you could add a snipe or an extension to the wrench. Even a piece of copper pipe can be used as an extension, this will increase the leverage and will help get it turning.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for responding. Will wd-40 work?
@@2bin A penetrating oil is best if you have that as an option. Standard WD-40 isn't designed as a penetrating oil but can still help loosen the rust. Also keep if the threads are completely seized, you might not be able to remove it without damaging the tank. It may take several applications of the penetrating oil to help break it loose.
@@AmreSupply thank you.
Are the replacement valves a standard size?
Thanks for watching. Most water heaters will use a valve with a 3/4" thread and will be a similar physical size. You will have to match the ratings on the tag exactly or it will not provide the same protection for your water heater: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Temperature-Pressure-Relief-Valves-662940-HH41
I want to add an extended plastic TP valve pipe. I tried unscrewing it as you did and the pipe won't budge. I sprayed it with WD40 and it still won't move. I'm afraid to force it because I'm afraid I might break the TP valve. Any suggestions?
Thanks for watching. The relief valve is made out of brass so it can handle a little of force. Additionally the way that it is screwed into the water heater means that it won't move when you unscrew the drain valve. You might just need a longer wench or an extension to get the torque needed to unscrew the drain pipe.
@@AmreSupply The TP valve was warm from the hot water in the tank. I figured it had made the threads expand. So what I did was soak a rag in cold water and wrap it around the valve to get the threads to contract. After a couple of minutes, the pipe turned pretty easy. Thanks for replying to my comment.
@@billyboy1621 Thank you for the update! We're just glad to hear that it worked.
Where 2 purchase a drain tube connection ,or 2 do ur self to a pvc pipe!?
Thanks for watching. You can buy a new drain tube at AMRE www.amresupply.com/catalog/Dip-Tubes-Drain-Tubes-Nipples-647772-PP2A
Water just keeps dripping from the bottom of the copper drain tube on my water heater...i have to keep dumping the bottle of water every day..any thoughts????..same procedure ya think?? Its driving me crazy
Thanks for watching. If water is dripping from the discharge pipe, then the relief valve is likely not closing properly and will need to be replaced. The steps outlined in this video apply to that.
Question...what would cause it to overheat in the first place?
Thanks for watching. A faulty gas control valve, or an issue with the burner itself could cause temperature issues. Any pressurized tank and even something as small as a Stovetop Moka pot will come with a pressure relief valve. Without any way of automatically releasing the pressure, any pressurized vessel is a potential bomb.
Ok...thank you!!!
Does relief valve have to be routed outside
Thanks for watching. In most cases the relief valve can just drain into a floor drain, but check your local plumbing codes as they might be different.
The pipe leads to the wall not down ...on my water heater..so I'm confused where does the water go if I relieve the pressure
Thanks for watching. In some cases the relief valve is connected to a drain or a pipe that drains elsewhere.
Black pipe Union is missing between 45 elbow and gas control.
Thanks for watching. You have a good eye. We constructed this set to film all the water heater videos in this series, that small detail would have helped complete the set.
after replacing the release, the new one is still leaking. What could be the possible cause of the problem?
Thank you for watching. It is possible that the threads on the tank are corroded or have a buildup of calcium. As well it can be good to inspect the threads for any nicks or damage that might prevent a good seal.
@@AmreSupply
I took off the valve again and carefully cleaned the threads. I noticed that the inner threads are not looking too good. It is a shame because I purchased the exact same valve that was on it, so it must have been the previous owners. Thanks again for the fast reply.
@@1naelillo You're welcome we're just happy to help. Even if the inner threads are rough, one could try applying more teflon tape and reinstalling the valve making sure that it is screwed in very tightly. Now if the damage is significant enough you might need a new tank.
Mine keeps whistling and I replaced it and its still doing it
Thanks for watching. The whistling could be because of high pressure water from the inlet or a excessive temperature. You could try lowering the temperature to see if it helps reduce the whistling. As well the thermostat inside the control valve could be faulty causing the water heater to run hotter than normal.
I did change but still water dripping out what should I do?
Hi Alex, thank you for watching. Its possible that the threads are either dirty or are worn out preventing a good seal. You could try cleaning the threads on the tank and re-installing the relief valve. Alternatively it could be leaking from another place but just dripping down near the relief valve, so see if you can see a trail of water down the side of the water heater.
I did everything I could I have to call a plumber to fix that so I find out main pressure control meter messed up pressure of water was so high thank to my brain it start working and I turn of main but thank you so much for answering
@@alexraymond9965 You're welcome, we're just happy to help in what ever way we can. Excessive water pressure would definitely create issues. We're glad that you narrow down the source of the problem.
My pressure relief valve squeals when it’s cold. I replaced it and the new one squeals when the ambient temperature is cold too . What can I do please?
Thanks for watching. Does it squeal when you open it or when it is sitting closed?
@@AmreSupply it squeals as soon as the ambient temperature gets close to freezing 🥶. It wakes me up. I go outside and release the pressure and it stops for a few minutes. So I replaced it again; and the third one is still doing it . This is a solar system so the tank is cold
@@AmreSupply it squeals when it’s sitting closed .
@@denisovanhybrid9610 Thanks for clarifying. We haven't done too much with solar systems, so I'm not familiar with this particular set of issues. It might be worth exploring some forums geared towards solar systems as there are always users who are happy to help out and share their experiences.
@@AmreSupply I’m lost - can’t find anything- don’t see how the solar affects it - as it’s just a tank with a standard pressure/ temperature relief valve like any other
No discussion on maybe the valve is working properly. My water pressure regulator failed and pressure was building up in the water supply to reach 150 PSI and the valve was releasing the water pressure as intended. Always check the water pressure first.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I unscrewed it without draining down it was hard to get new one on with water spraying out. I should have watched this video first. I drove home with my clothes soaking wet.
Thanks for sharing your experience. There are ways of creating an air lock but to be safe draining the tank below the level of the valve can definitely simplify things.
I just changed it but it started leaking at the threads. I applied teflon and joint compound on the threads while installing.
I removed it cleaned it cleaned it again and this time applied blue monster compound from the home depo. But it’s still leaking. Any suggestions?
Thanks for watching. It is possible that it needs another full turn when you tighten it. Sometimes it can feel like it is tight but can still be turned more.
As well, is there any indication that the threads on the tank are rusted or are damaged in any way? If there are pits in the threads then it can prevent a good seal.
@@AmreSupply yes threads are damaged upon close inspection. Should i apply epoxy? Rectorseal 200
@@HmHaroon88 Depending on how bad that damage is sometimes it means replacing the tank. I can't speak to the use of that particular product but like anything else make sure to check the temperature and pressure ratings of the product.
We don't have a specific video on repairing threads or re-tapping the threads though but its something we might look into in the future.
You don't need to turn the gas off, just set it to pilot.
Thanks for watching. You are right, but for our videos we have made the decision to be diligent about disconnecting power or the gas supply before any of our repairs.
So a slow drip is probably nothing wrong?
Thanks for watching. If the slow drip persists and is steady day to day then that water will add up. In that case the relief valve might not be sealing properly on the valve. There could also be sediment preventing the valve from closing. You can always open for 5 seconds as this might help re-seat the valve.
@@AmreSupply Will give that a shot and check on it, thanks for the input. The damn thing is only 2 years old lol
@@EvilJ069 You're welcome, just keep us posted on what you find!
Test it and you may flood your basement! Make sure you have a new valve!!!
Thanks for watching. The test is to verify if the valve can open and close if needed. If the valve did break and was unable to close then one would want to shut off the cold water supply which would create an air lock, preventing more air from being released.
I tapped out when he used the wrench backwards.
Thanks for watching. If you do a quick search you'll find that there is an ongoing debate about the proper direction to use crescent wrenches. The argument is a difference between strength and potential slippage. There are some that say that it matters a lot and others that say that it doesn't matter at all and like most things on the internet, its highly polarized. We hope that you still found the video helpful.
4:30. Take aerator off!
Thanks for watching. Just curious, what would change by taking the aerator off?
@@AmreSupply - many of the houses that you would be doing this could have galvanized pipe that is old. That typically has rust in it that when you evacuate the line and get air in it it dislodge rust particles which clog up the aerator. By removing it it allows these particles to pass through. Generally speaking any time the water is turned off and air gets in the lines you should take off the aerator to flush the system
@@condor5635 Thank you for clarifying, that is an excellent point!
The title should be replacing only ! not repairing the valve
Thanks for watching. The series name is "Repair & Replace" as the videos within the series shows repairs and replacements of parts.
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Thanks for watching!
I replaced the relief valve and then replaced the guts in the pressure regulating valve. The relief is still leaking, should I replace it again?
Thanks for watching. Is it leaking at the threads or though the discharge pipe itself? Is it a slow continuous leak or does the leak happen once or twice a day?