I do not understand how there are so awkward! That actuator works perfectly. Without motor load, when increasing the pressure in the manifold the rod must give way, and even at high revolutions it must relax almost completely. This type of turbo, lacks a "discharge valve", and the overpressure is regulated by the inclination of turbine blades. I hope I have clarified things, and not to put more confusion.
VNT actuator was $65 ish shipped. I've spent at least $400-$500 so far on parts. Ugh!! My friend does work for VW and does most of the work on it. Doesn't seem like there are any actual TDI specialist that work there. New vacum lines and a new check valve near the N75 is next to try..After that, I guess I'll have to pull and clean the turbo.
I've not done anything latey..lol I've been so busy with work and training and a few weekends away at NHRA races, I've not driven it much. But I will say this, all the times I've driven it lately and over the last two months or so, it's not limped again..Weird!! It's such a random thing..Mostly on the Hwy. I don't know what to think.
That sux! I've wondered about my turbo as well but that wouldn't explain the fuel cut off valve or glow plug codes... Plus I've had mine go IN and OUT and then IN and OUT of limp in a matter of seconds on the hwy. or excellerating, like it is some sort of valve / electrical signal being interupted. I am leaning toward ECU / ECM issues or connection. I've read that some have had ecu's replaced to correct these issues. Let me know on that turbo. BTW, how much did a new turbo cost? Thanks!
Still haven't fixed mine. New N75 valve, New 109 relay, New coolant temp sensor, New #4 glow plug and a new Glow plug harness and I'm still getting these codes (P1538 Fuel Cut-off valve -N109 Intermittent and P0674 Cyl. 4 glow plug circuit Intemittent). And on occassion I get this one - P0245 Turbo/Super Charger Wasteg.Solonoid A Low / Intermittent. What do you / ya'll think my problem is? Starting to think I may have an ECU issue or something.
Hi everyone. I owned a 2006 SSangyong kyron and I had the same problems for more than a year, I took the car to different testers and many mechanics told me that the tester looked bad egr, but after consulting many mechanics and I did not finish. only checked some parameters and found that the supply voltage at n75 does not fluctuate at all remains at the maximum voltage. now what can be the problem? Check if you do not have the same problem.
Actuator is fine. Vnt control ring, rollers and blades will be covered in soot and oil, gluing it together. You need to remove turbo assembly, remove chra, disassemble clean and rebuild vnt hot side.
So, any results from the new turbo? After doing a little more research and asking questions of other TDI owners, I was advised to order a new VNT actuator for my stock turbo. I ordered it and it should be here in 4-5 days. I sure hope it fixes my problem. If not, Next I will try replacing all the vacum lines.
Never done anything with it yet. It could be a few different things according to a few people I've talked to. Bad N75 valve, Clogged turbo vains, my fuel cut off on the Injection pump (I'm getting a code for that), Or bad / leaking vacum hoses. Honestly I don't have time to mess with it. I wished I could find someone to diagnose and repair for me in the Atlanta area.
I got a problem with my golf mk3 TDI when I drive it on the motorways or go over 60-70 MPH the turbo cuts out and there's no power left, I plugged it on to the diagnostic machine and it came bk with 00575 code I changed the egr valve and n75 boost control but still the same thing please help thanks
i had the same problem whit my afn golf 3 the geometry of the turbo was stuck.turbo made too much boost that s why you are getting limp mode.clean the turbo variable geometry and the car will be like new .you can clean it whidout taken the turbo off .
I had the same problem. I removed the "Turbo Actuator" (I know that is not what it is really called) and moved the Trubo VNT arm, that the Actuator connects to, by hand. If it moves freely then your Turbo VNTs are normal. If it is hard to move the arm or the arm does not move completely from one side to the other, then you have two choices: (1) try and clean the intake side of the turbo with out removing it, and cross your fingers (2) take the turbo off (requiring you to remove the intake & exhaust manifold along with all that EGR junk.) look at the exhaust and intake turbo turbines. see if the main turbo shaft wobble. once out you can completely clean the VNTs. Now that the VNTs work you will have to make sure the "Turbo Actuator" is getting vacuem from the n75 boost control. You will need a Mighty Vac for this. Make sure the n75 is getting at least 15lb of vacuum. Then adjust the "Turbo Actuator" to full turbo at 15lbs. My problem was OVER BOOST. after adjusting the "Turbo Actuator" the TDI runs like a race car. You will also want to make sure your EGR valve & intake are not coked up with soot and oil. good luck.
I have a similair problem, turbo seems to be spooling fine till 2000rpm, but 2500-3000 its spiking/jerking, and if I drive uphill it starts to jerk really bad (the car itself doesnt jerk its only the sound of the turbo itself), and if I apply more gas, it just goes into limp mode, ive replaced boost solenoid, and diesel filter so far , and it improved a lot , but still the same thing .
hey sorry to reply such old comment, my bmw is doing the same thing . believe its actuator fault due to code , did u ever fix your car ? what was the cost
See my post above... I've replaced a lot of parts so far and it's still going into limp mode ( Replaced N75, Glow plug #4 and Glow plug harness, New MAF Sensor, New 109 Relay, New Coolant Temp Sensor, Swapped in two used relays for the Glow plug circuit #53 & #100 relays) I just ordered a new VNT actuator for my turbo. When I get it on and if that doesn't work, the only thing else I know to try is replace all my vacum lines.
No need for that most likely it was your vacuum problem either the pump or the niple where the first vacuum pipe is connected they tent to be lose and lose vacuum bosch ones are better then pieburg.
@@shinviews4717 If you read further it ended up being a bad ECU. I had plenty of people try to diagnose it but it ended up taking a long time after some modifications to figure out that it was the ECU.
Greetings. I recently started having this problem. Sometimes when I start the engine, the heater and engine lights come on. The revs start going crazy, as if the fuel is cutting off. It mostly happens all the time while driving, when you let off the gas. The turbine was removed and cleaned.
Well I just replaced my VNT Actuator and drove it today. Totally a waste of money and time. It went into Limp Mode within just a few miles. Switching from 1st to 2nd gear (low rpm / low boost) and it Limped. Mine is going to have to be something related to my P1538 Fuel Cut Off valve open circuit / ground intermittent code I'm getting. Electrical I guess but I have not clue where to look.
I'm having a low power / limp mode issue on my 02 TDI Golf ( ALH motor ). I'm here I may need to pull the turbo and clean inside so movement is good. Could this be my problem?
I will change VNT actuator tomorrow, hopefully it solves this. dont know if its a coincidence, but it all started after heavy rain, could be something electrical
mine opens all the way soon as turbo engages !!?!?!?!?! anyone have an idea of what could be wrong with it ? car feels like if it had a freaking nitrous !?!?!?! not to mention how much my clutch suffers
What was the solution in the end? If it's not the actuator itself, would it not be the control ring/nozzles inside the turbo (that the actuator actually moves) that are just carbon clogged?
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Nolan Brentley Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Did you ever fix your problem? I'm having power issues with my 00 TDI Golf too (USA). Last night I stomped it in 4th gear, all the way to the floor. No more than 2800 rpms. Just won't go.
@@sosmadmax2148 It's a common misconception that revving the engine will move the VNT mech to high boost. It's the other way round. At idle you are at max boost position so disconnecting the vac pipe moves the mechanism to lowest boost position. A very good way to see if you are getting full movement.
"VNT should move to full extent of range." In my case it do. When I remove vac hose from actuator, rod goes full length, when I plug again, vacuum pull rod all away to vacuum. What that means? Vacuum is good or turbo is not dirty?
Hello. My 1.9 TDi PD AJM doesn't go into limp-mode but , every time I'm starting the car and go to work in the morning , the engine gets boost from turbo after 2500rpm , and then the car is fine nomatter how long I drive. It runs ok. If i want 180km/h , it goes to 180km/h , I go to 4000 rp no problem no limp mode. Any ideas ? I used a hand vacuum pump and I noticed that the actuator moves very late , as if were sticky vanes or something. How can I know wich is my problem ? VNT or ACTUATOR ? thanks
@@ozgurera not yet. May be a Turbo Problem, leaving oil to escape in the exhaust part. The oil may not be too much (maybe 0.5L in 10 000 - 12 000 km ). That oil goes directly to geometry and makes the vanes to become sticky from time to time, depending if you drive daily, only in the city or combined with highway. I observed improvements/ power restoration after I got it to highway and giving it full throtle in 4th gear ( 4000 rpm ), making big temperatures inside turbine. After some acceleration in 3rd - 4th at 4000 RPM, and again and again, got my engine running smooth next days in the cold state, with normal power, with no issues at all. This is what I think: VNT/TURBO problem , but it's not confirmed yet by mechanics
👍🏻 same here. The soot makes the vnt plate sticking. I have experienced that and all that you need to do is cleaning. If not, the vnt system and turbine will get fried.
Check you have vacuum first then make sure the vacuum actuator works everything there is ok pull your exhaust side of the turbo off your vanes in there are probably gunked up and either seized or only partially working.If so clean and make sure everything is moving with ease and free put back together and you should be fine.
Diagnosed my B5 passat 1999 1.9 tdi with laptop, VCDS programm, it said the boost pressure solenoid might be problem and some hoses maybe are faulty, I cleaned my boost pressure solenoid (N75),which provides boost for turbine(cleaned it from inside), now it's stable(turbine) even after those 3k rpm, the problem is basically fixed, because my car doesn't want to lose the power anymore when coming near those 3k rpm. Havent tried to go to 4k RPM, but, the power disappearing issue has gone .
@@albinh.3149 Hello, when I replaced my N75, there were no results at start, but I realised my turbo got clogged pretty fast again because the old N75 didn't move the vanes inside the turbo and so it got stuck again. //// Basically, you have to take out your turbine and clean up the geometry, vanes, there are tutorials on youtube how to do it. Only then the car felt like it started to breath and have power again after all these years. Also the vacuum wastegate on turbine which is sucked with the help of you vacuum pump and which is regulated by N75 is not aligned like it came from factory, then it might be also a problem and it might not fully open or close. But if you havent touched it then all good. Just gotta clean the turbo vanes inside the hot part of the turbo. - but if you have touched the rod alignment of wastegate actuator, it should be around 18 mm Hg when it hits the stop screw when sucked up with hand vacuum pump(can be bought on amazon or aliexpress, or probably any car store). If cleaning out turbo doesnt work then you gotta check all your Vacuum Lines for any leaks, check also brake booster connections (also associated with vacuum and brakes) - if you can, get a smoke machine, or create a DIY smoke machine, also tutorials on youtube how to and then check if there are any leaks from pipes/hoses. Other than that, can't remember of anything else, text me again if you still have issues, good luck on fixing the problem :) - if you have steam / discord - I could send you all the videos, things associated with these problems which helped me and that would speed up your fixing pretty fast. -- also I remembered - you gotta take off your INTAKE Manifold (silver color) and completely clean it up from any black gunk/residue from the burned fuel, that is pretty hard but you can soak it up overnight in some diesel/petrol or some other chemical and then brush off everything you can inside it. Blowtorch also helps a lot - also tutorials on youtube on how to blowtorch your intake manifold. that also was dirty and limits the air intake channel rooms / air intake amount.
my cars on 140k and turbo still sounds smooth as silk. will probably change the oil rings soon though just to be sensible. nothing bad about vgt. basically antilag.
Is it same problem like mine? Have not limp mode, just lack of power and higher fuel consumption. th-cam.com/video/IWYOj7mH-nk/w-d-xo.html And this is rod movement th-cam.com/video/e1aCbh90KYM/w-d-xo.html
@@kennymike3040 Hi, check the solenoid valve n75 is not defective, if the solenoid valve is ok check its supply, if the voltage at the solenoid valve is constant, it is necessary a reset to the machine computer. You could also check the vacuum hoses not to be broken ... with respect
I do not understand how there are so awkward!
That actuator works perfectly. Without motor load, when increasing the pressure in the manifold the rod must give way, and even at high revolutions it must relax almost completely. This type of turbo, lacks a "discharge valve", and the overpressure is regulated by the inclination of turbine blades. I hope I have clarified things, and not to put more confusion.
VNT actuator was $65 ish shipped. I've spent at least $400-$500 so far on parts. Ugh!!
My friend does work for VW and does most of the work on it. Doesn't seem like there are any actual TDI specialist that work there. New vacum lines and a new check valve near the N75 is next to try..After that, I guess I'll have to pull and clean the turbo.
I've not done anything latey..lol
I've been so busy with work and training and a few weekends away at NHRA races, I've not driven it much.
But I will say this, all the times I've driven it lately and over the last two months or so, it's not limped again..Weird!! It's such a random thing..Mostly on the Hwy. I don't know what to think.
I have the exact same issue, apart from mine is being caused by carbon build up and not the actual actuator
That sux! I've wondered about my turbo as well but that wouldn't explain the fuel cut off valve or glow plug codes... Plus I've had mine go IN and OUT and then IN and OUT of limp in a matter of seconds on the hwy. or excellerating, like it is some sort of valve / electrical signal being interupted. I am leaning toward ECU / ECM issues or connection. I've read that some have had ecu's replaced to correct these issues. Let me know on that turbo. BTW, how much did a new turbo cost? Thanks!
What does cause low boost or overboost?
Still haven't fixed mine. New N75 valve, New 109 relay, New coolant temp sensor, New #4 glow plug and a new Glow plug harness and I'm still getting these codes (P1538 Fuel Cut-off valve -N109 Intermittent and P0674 Cyl. 4 glow plug circuit Intemittent). And on occassion I get this one - P0245 Turbo/Super Charger Wasteg.Solonoid A Low / Intermittent. What do you / ya'll think my problem is? Starting to think I may have an ECU issue or something.
So did a new turbo fix the problems
this is it! thanks!
...good day sir thanka 4 d video
Hi everyone. I owned a 2006 SSangyong kyron and I had the same problems for more than a year, I took the car to different testers and many mechanics told me that the tester looked bad egr, but after consulting many mechanics and I did not finish. only checked some parameters and found that the supply voltage at n75 does not fluctuate at all remains at the maximum voltage. now what can be the problem? Check if you do not have the same problem.
Worn spring in actuator, doesnt create enough opposite force to counteract vacuum and force down actuator lever..
This can be bad n75 vacuum vale, doesnt release vacuum when dont need pressure.
mass airflow sensor is ok??
my do the same.in my case was the valve n75.sending error values .if i pass the 4.000rpm the car enter in limp mode(turbo off automaticaly).
Actuator is fine. Vnt control ring, rollers and blades will be covered in soot and oil, gluing it together. You need to remove turbo assembly, remove chra, disassemble clean and rebuild vnt hot side.
So, any results from the new turbo? After doing a little more research and asking questions of other TDI owners, I was advised to order a new VNT actuator for my stock turbo. I ordered it and it should be here in 4-5 days. I sure hope it fixes my problem. If not, Next I will try replacing all the vacum lines.
Never done anything with it yet. It could be a few different things according to a few people I've talked to. Bad N75 valve, Clogged turbo vains, my fuel cut off on the Injection pump (I'm getting a code for that), Or bad / leaking vacum hoses. Honestly I don't have time to mess with it. I wished I could find someone to diagnose and repair for me in the Atlanta area.
that acutator is so bad it stuck can be seen and engine is suffering from it
I got a problem with my golf mk3 TDI when I drive it on the motorways or go over 60-70 MPH the turbo cuts out and there's no power left, I plugged it on to the diagnostic machine and it came bk with 00575 code I changed the egr valve and n75 boost control but still the same thing please help thanks
i had the same problem whit my afn golf 3 the geometry of the turbo was stuck.turbo made too much boost that s why you are getting limp mode.clean the turbo variable geometry and the car will be like new .you can clean it whidout taken the turbo off .
I had the same problem. I removed the "Turbo Actuator" (I know that is not what it is really called) and moved the Trubo VNT arm, that the Actuator connects to, by hand. If it moves freely then your Turbo VNTs are normal. If it is hard to move the arm or the arm does not move completely from one side to the other, then you have two choices:
(1) try and clean the intake side of the turbo with out removing it, and cross your fingers
(2) take the turbo off (requiring you to remove the intake & exhaust manifold along with all that EGR junk.) look at the exhaust and intake turbo turbines. see if the main turbo shaft wobble. once out you can completely clean the VNTs.
Now that the VNTs work you will have to make sure the "Turbo Actuator" is getting vacuem from the n75 boost control. You will need a Mighty Vac for this. Make sure the n75 is getting at least 15lb of vacuum. Then adjust the "Turbo Actuator" to full turbo at 15lbs.
My problem was OVER BOOST. after adjusting the "Turbo Actuator" the TDI runs like a race car. You will also want to make sure your EGR valve & intake are not coked up with soot and oil.
good luck.
@@linonelar how to clean without taking it off ?
Sticky vanes??? Owen cleaner???
I would just try a new MAP sensor this is cheap and will stop most limp mode problems as this controls signals to the other valves
Very good master
I have a similair problem, turbo seems to be spooling fine till 2000rpm, but 2500-3000 its spiking/jerking, and if I drive uphill it starts to jerk really bad (the car itself doesnt jerk its only the sound of the turbo itself), and if I apply more gas, it just goes into limp mode, ive replaced boost solenoid, and diesel filter so far , and it improved a lot , but still the same thing .
Check the neutral position switch or the crankshaft sensor if it's a Nissan
hey sorry to reply such old comment, my bmw is doing the same thing . believe its actuator fault due to code , did u ever fix your car ? what was the cost
See my post above... I've replaced a lot of parts so far and it's still going into limp mode ( Replaced N75, Glow plug #4 and Glow plug harness, New MAF Sensor, New 109 Relay, New Coolant Temp Sensor, Swapped in two used relays for the Glow plug circuit #53 & #100 relays) I just ordered a new VNT actuator for my turbo. When I get it on and if that doesn't work, the only thing else I know to try is replace all my vacum lines.
No need for that most likely it was your vacuum problem either the pump or the niple where the first vacuum pipe is connected they tent to be lose and lose vacuum bosch ones are better then pieburg.
@@Naughty_Squad Check my updates. It turned about being a bad ECU. We swapped out with a known good eco and it never happened again.
@@protectandswerve you could have saved all that time by diagnostics
@@shinviews4717 If you read further it ended up being a bad ECU. I had plenty of people try to diagnose it but it ended up taking a long time after some modifications to figure out that it was the ECU.
Greetings. I recently started having this problem. Sometimes when I start the engine, the heater and engine lights come on. The revs start going crazy, as if the fuel is cutting off.
It mostly happens all the time while driving, when you let off the gas.
The turbine was removed and cleaned.
Hello my w210 mercedes actuactor stays allways up and does not move
my car has no power and intercooler tube does not boost
what can be the prb?
Change your engine's actuator assembly if need so turbocharger too...
Well I just replaced my VNT Actuator and drove it today. Totally a waste of money and time. It went into Limp Mode within just a few miles. Switching from 1st to 2nd gear (low rpm / low boost) and it Limped. Mine is going to have to be something related to my P1538 Fuel Cut Off valve open circuit / ground intermittent code I'm getting. Electrical I guess but I have not clue where to look.
egr or injector related possibly
is alh ?
I'm having a low power / limp mode issue on my 02 TDI Golf ( ALH motor ). I'm here I may need to pull the turbo and clean inside so movement is good. Could this be my problem?
Whats bad in it.. can anyone please explain me... In detail... It would be a great help..
Check the vacuum solenoid
Merci
I will change VNT actuator tomorrow, hopefully it solves this. dont know if its a coincidence, but it all started after heavy rain, could be something electrical
did you solved your problem with new VNT actutator?
Is it not ment to move when reving it or what
mine opens all the way soon as turbo engages !!?!?!?!?! anyone have an idea of what could be wrong with it ? car feels like if it had a freaking nitrous !?!?!?! not to mention how much my clutch suffers
Michal better than not moving at all or enough
thats the reason that i change turbo in my bora 1.9 tdi
actuator bad or geometry dirty??
Geometry dirty! Is not VNT....
Top
What was the solution in the end?
If it's not the actuator itself, would it not be the control ring/nozzles inside the turbo (that the actuator actually moves) that are just carbon clogged?
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Bodhi Arlo Instablaster ;)
@Nolan Brentley Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Nolan Brentley It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Bodhi Arlo happy to help =)
i think looks good
yees
I think just need some oil
👍👍👏
Did you ever fix your problem? I'm having power issues with my 00 TDI Golf too (USA). Last night I stomped it in 4th gear, all the way to the floor. No more than 2800 rpms. Just won't go.
TheCompyshop and you ? resolved
No need to rev the engine, just pull the vac pipe off and on while at idle - VNT should move to full extent of range.
What vac pipe
@@sosmadmax2148 from actuator
@@sosmadmax2148 It's a common misconception that revving the engine will move the VNT mech to high boost. It's the other way round. At idle you are at max boost position so disconnecting the vac pipe moves the mechanism to lowest boost position. A very good way to see if you are getting full movement.
"VNT should move to full extent of range."
In my case it do. When I remove vac hose from actuator, rod goes full length, when I plug again, vacuum pull rod all away to vacuum. What that means? Vacuum is good or turbo is not dirty?
@@zzmen01 I'd say it means both. If you're having problems it's probably not turbo or vacuum system that is bad.
Hello. My 1.9 TDi PD AJM doesn't go into limp-mode but , every time I'm starting the car and go to work in the morning , the engine gets boost from turbo after 2500rpm , and then the car is fine nomatter how long I drive. It runs ok. If i want 180km/h , it goes to 180km/h , I go to 4000 rp no problem no limp mode. Any ideas ? I used a hand vacuum pump and I noticed that the actuator moves very late , as if were sticky vanes or something. How can I know wich is my problem ? VNT or ACTUATOR ? thanks
Have you resolved the issue? Having the same problem ..
@@ozgurera not yet. May be a Turbo Problem, leaving oil to escape in the exhaust part. The oil may not be too much (maybe 0.5L in 10 000 - 12 000 km ). That oil goes directly to geometry and makes the vanes to become sticky from time to time, depending if you drive daily, only in the city or combined with highway.
I observed improvements/ power restoration after I got it to highway and giving it full throtle in 4th gear ( 4000 rpm ), making big temperatures inside turbine. After some acceleration in 3rd - 4th at 4000 RPM, and again and again, got my engine running smooth next days in the cold state, with normal power, with no issues at all.
This is what I think: VNT/TURBO problem , but it's not confirmed yet by mechanics
I think its dirty geometry
Shutting the engine off abruptly like that is a big No No trust me..
Yeah was thinking that. Big rev and off 5 seconds later isn't gonna help matters
Get the damn camera set
your vnt actuator is not bad. the vnt assembly inside the turbo is full of carbon. remove turbo, clean vnt, reinstall.
👍🏻 same here. The soot makes the vnt plate sticking. I have experienced that and all that you need to do is cleaning. If not, the vnt system and turbine will get fried.
Porqué no lo traducen al español
Actuator NOT bad, it's working
I have no power after 2.5k rpm. Please help.
Same goes with my car, after around 3k rpm it goes into a limp mode(no power)
Check you have vacuum first then make sure the vacuum actuator works everything there is ok pull your exhaust side of the turbo off your vanes in there are probably gunked up and either seized or only partially working.If so clean and make sure everything is moving with ease and free put back together and you should be fine.
Diagnosed my B5 passat 1999 1.9 tdi with laptop, VCDS programm, it said the boost pressure solenoid might be problem and some hoses maybe are faulty, I cleaned my boost pressure solenoid (N75),which provides boost for turbine(cleaned it from inside), now it's stable(turbine) even after those 3k rpm, the problem is basically fixed, because my car doesn't want to lose the power anymore when coming near those 3k rpm. Havent tried to go to 4k RPM, but, the power disappearing issue has gone .
@@QeinnI completley replaced the N75 and still have the Problem. What else would you suggest?
@@albinh.3149 Hello, when I replaced my N75, there were no results at start, but I realised my turbo got clogged pretty fast again because the old N75 didn't move the vanes inside the turbo and so it got stuck again. //// Basically, you have to take out your turbine and clean up the geometry, vanes, there are tutorials on youtube how to do it. Only then the car felt like it started to breath and have power again after all these years. Also the vacuum wastegate on turbine which is sucked with the help of you vacuum pump and which is regulated by N75 is not aligned like it came from factory, then it might be also a problem and it might not fully open or close. But if you havent touched it then all good. Just gotta clean the turbo vanes inside the hot part of the turbo. - but if you have touched the rod alignment of wastegate actuator, it should be around 18 mm Hg when it hits the stop screw when sucked up with hand vacuum pump(can be bought on amazon or aliexpress, or probably any car store). If cleaning out turbo doesnt work then you gotta check all your Vacuum Lines for any leaks, check also brake booster connections (also associated with vacuum and brakes) - if you can, get a smoke machine, or create a DIY smoke machine, also tutorials on youtube how to and then check if there are any leaks from pipes/hoses. Other than that, can't remember of anything else, text me again if you still have issues, good luck on fixing the problem :) - if you have steam / discord - I could send you all the videos, things associated with these problems which helped me and that would speed up your fixing pretty fast. -- also I remembered - you gotta take off your INTAKE Manifold (silver color) and completely clean it up from any black gunk/residue from the burned fuel, that is pretty hard but you can soak it up overnight in some diesel/petrol or some other chemical and then brush off everything you can inside it. Blowtorch also helps a lot - also tutorials on youtube on how to blowtorch your intake manifold. that also was dirty and limits the air intake channel rooms / air intake amount.
Do not buy vehicles with vnt/vgt it will not last long, or change your turbo fgt that can cope up with the same power
you are talking out of your arse lol
mannerz91 Anal Linguistics indeed.
my cars on 140k and turbo still sounds smooth as silk. will probably change the oil rings soon though just to be sensible. nothing bad about vgt. basically antilag.
do you recommend vnt-17 upgrade over problem stock vnt-15?
Is it same problem like mine? Have not limp mode, just lack of power and higher fuel consumption.
th-cam.com/video/IWYOj7mH-nk/w-d-xo.html
And this is rod movement
th-cam.com/video/e1aCbh90KYM/w-d-xo.html
And how you fix the problem ? Just replace VNT actuator ?
This may be the problem with me as well
th-cam.com/video/E7yzFa5TsxQ/w-d-xo.html
I solved the problem, only had to reset the computer
My hiluc kun25 non vnt, the actuator not moving, what the problem? My hilux have low power now. It is hard to get 130km
@@kennymike3040 Hi, check the solenoid valve n75 is not defective, if the solenoid valve is ok check its supply, if the voltage at the solenoid valve is constant, it is necessary a reset to the machine computer. You could also check the vacuum hoses not to be broken ... with respect
Needs water. Add half cup of water to oil for better boost to actuator.
Tit 😂