Hi Bob. I was one of the viewers that requested this video and I just want to thank you for an excellent demonstration. Whenever we go to the farm to hunt it seems like we are always breaking something or modifying our deer stands and I always have my AHP 160 in tow due to its portability. Usually we are working with 16ga square tube and I run 3/32 on DCEN. Great to have you verify that.
I got me an everlast 140 for just that reason. the usefulness of a small light welder can't be underestimated but it really needs to be 110v and 220v compatible to be flexible.
Back in the 70’s I used to stick weld 18 ga galvanized sheet metal when building signs a Bellows Sign co in Akron, Ohio. The slightly vertical welds were much easier. We would always start with shorter rods, thus reducing the shake at rod tip. Galvanized coating produces zinc oxide fumes which are dangerous, but we didn’t know that back then. I always enjoyed fab work. Nice video.
I just love stick welding. For 14 to 11 gage sheet metal I use 2mm (5/64 inch) E7016 rods made by a Belgium company called Lastek. These rods run very nice at 40 to 45 amps DCEP with a very soft and controllable arc. On even thinner sheet (19 or 20 gage) I use 1,5mm (1/16 inch) 6013 rods from the same company on DCEN and 30-40 amps. When I use 1/8 or even 3/32 rods on 14 gage I have to weld really short stretches otherwise I just burn through the stuff.
Etol1963 I'm surprised it would work so well with EP. (With thin stuff you want the heat in your rod rather then the material -- for people wondering what the difference is between EN/EP)
Hi Len M. You are right about DCEN on the thin stuff, but the basic E7016 rods from Lastek run a lot better on DCEP than on DCEN like most basic rods. And with only 40 to 45 amps you don't put to much heat in the base material anyway. And those rod really run nice on only 40/45 amps. I also have 2mm E7018 basic rods from a company called Weldkar and they weld very nice on DCEP and totally crap on DCEN and they need at least 60 amps to not stick all the time. At 70 amps DCEP they run very nice but in my experience that is to much heat for 14 gage.
Arcstreams, what you state there is true, but there is a big difference between consumable smaw electrodes and non-consumable tig tungsten electrodes. The molten metal that comes of a smaw electrode on DCEP will be a lot hotter than that same metal coming of an smaw electrode on DCEN. The molten metal of a smaw electrode on DCEP will therefore put more heat in the base metal when it is deposited.
Nice demo. Made me think of back in the 60's and early 70's I was one of the few to have a Lincoln ac 225 buzz box. $50 new when I was 15 in '66 and welded a lot of new exhaust pipes and rusted out car frames for my buddies using 3/32" 6013 thru the early years. Thin exhaust pipes around16ga. fast and down hill with great results. That welder, which I still own came complete with helmet, cables and they even threw in a dual carbon rod holder for brazing and heating. I even used that welder to thaw frozen water lines many times on the 75 amp 100% duty cycle setting that had a circle around that setting to show that it is 100% duty cycle. Your video made me reminisce a bit and I bet a lot of other old timers started the same way. Keep them coming . Thanks, Ed K Cleve. Oh.
It's a great economical way to start out your welding ventures and home/farm and light welding repairs and projects. I see them on CL all the time for cheap. If you are going for a little more pricey welder I would step it up to an AC/DC rig or a multi purpose inverter style. With the right rod, and practice a 220 AC buzz box will serve you just fine. Good Luck.
I remember when I was 9 years old my first welder was a buzz box Lincoln 225 from J.C.Whitney for $75 delivered to my door. I welder so many things with the red tombstone machine. Nice to see others had a fond memory of using the welder. Keep the videos coming !
Phillip Bishop it's rediculous if you're a beginner. Spend $50 get a 300amp single phase bridge rectifier and boom it's a Cadillac. You'll be running 7014 rod like a pro.
Too much paint for the 6013 electrodes or even GTAW plus you would have quality control issues on cars with SMAW. Removing paint around holes or places that need patches is a lot of work for your average welder. Also, the smell of electrodes with the the smell of inner E-coat would smell like a lot like ass. I rather weld sheet with straight CO2 or CO2 with fluxed core, at least CO2 will eat the paint more easily.
Use a mig and do a tack at a time. So look out for the color of your previous tack, once is coming down from bright red tack it again. So youll be sticking an arc on top of your previous tack everytime....its a slow process and patience is a plus.
Lucius Irving you can clean the paint with an angle grinder and a cutting wheel, in fact, you’ll need several passes to strip the paint completely to bare metal I stopped using the grinding wheel for paint as it has the tendency to gather on the wheel, and increases vibrations until you consume that part of the wheel; a cutting wheel doesn’t pose this issue, but you want to drag it over your work to avoid making any cuts
Thank you. I tried using my 110v CC welder a few years back to butt weld miter joints on .065 wall square tubing using a 3000w generator in a truck yard. I got it done with 6013 rods, but I used DCEP and it was very tricky to maintain the arc. Thank you- great video. (and I realize that the generator is undersized by 2K watts at any weld voltage).
Great demonstration. I would like to see you guys do this with a 1/16 6013, I was using this to weld up some really thin square tubing I'm not 100% sure without going back and looking what the thickness was but it was a lot thinner than what you were welding on there. And the joint was like a flare bevel I guess because of the rounded corners on the square tubing. I had a heck of a time with the slag running out in front of my rod and I got a few stretches of really good weld but some stretches with slag inclusions. I tried to keep a rod angle to push the slag behind me but it was a booger, and a few times I did burn through the tubing.
i welded some heavy stuff a week ago with 7048 downhill. and i must say. the slag came off super nice. and it went superfast. you guys should make a vid on that. cuz alot of people dont have fluxcore settup. or only have 100 % co2. so downhill and uphill can be tricky for most people. Downhill 7048 is fast and gets the job done. with easy slag removal.
oh thats to bad. funny enought. 6010 rod here in norway is impossible to get. ive been to 4 different welding supply stores. and thay dont even know what it is. thay offer me 6013 :P so i have that. its funny how Metal is considered and handaled different from contry to contry. Here everyone uses 7016 instead of 7018. strangest thing
Looks like after i looked through half of the norwegian esab homepage. Esac.no I finally found "pipeweld 6010". Its a real 6010 electrode with all the specs it is supposed to have and looks to me like you can buy it in norway - maybe your welding distributor needs to order it and does not have it on the shelf - and maybe it is really expensive - but to me most likely it looks like you can buy it.....
first of all u probably need to show them a print of the actuall pipeweld 6010. and then get them to spessially order it to the store. and yes, everything is possible. if there is esab distributor here thay surely can get it for u. thats the only one ive found too. probably take 1 month for them, but u probbably gotta pay 3 times what u would buy if it would be in stock. and ran as our main distributor sells ELGA. and i had to ask 3 times just for a pack of 4047 aluminum rod pack for cast aluminium welding. and i after 3 months havent gottem them. complained 3 times. and now its on the way :P Not easy getting stuff thats not on the shelf. even if its distributors. i was even told from the elga distributor not to use the english book. becaus thay dont run stocks of some of the stuff there. :P haha
Good video. ive been using 1/16 308L rods for 10 years welding stainless 304, 316, 430 from 20g, 18g and 16g you have just got to have a machine that you can turn the power right down.
You provided more useful information for stick welding in five minutes than I got than I got from my stick welding instructor some 40 years ago. Thank you. I have a project that requires 2x2 square tubing with 1/16 inch wall, mild steel. Any chance that could be done with an AC only Lincoln tombstone type welder? My only other options are oxy/acet welding (I’m mediocre)) or bronze brazing (which I’m very good at). Any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
I had needed to do some welding on my truck for a while and wasn't comfortable with the 6011 or 6013 I had in my garage. Well, at work (as a boilermaker) I finally got an "opportunity" to weld on an expansion joint that was as thin or thinner than the sheet metal on my body panels. The guy on the shift before me had a bunch of 7010 and a bunch of 6013. Neither ran right for me, no matter how hot or cold it would just not start. Once the 6013 did start, it just blew the holes out worse. Took myself down to the tool room and asked for a fat wad of 3/32 6010. Ask and ye shall receive. It worked beautifully once dialed in. So now I have a tall boy full of that same exact 6010, from the same supplier as work. Now I'm just waiting on a nice day to put those panels on.
That's thick sheet. Really thick! How about what we used to weld 1.6mm (16ga - 1/16"). Most of the welding I had to do in the field to repair grain handling equipment for farmers was 1.6mm. We used MMA (Stick) because it was done invariably in a paddock somewhere and blowing a gale. Besides it was before the days of small portable MIG units. Lincoln Petrol powered welder.
When doing SMAW on sheet, I have to use a bare rod, thicker than a coat hanger of like 1/4 of an inch. To fill holes that the my AC buzz box may have made over sheet. On my project, I just put fat tack welds on metal since it's paper thin.
nice video Mr. Moffat. i have some 6013 and ill try the DC-, never think about it!!! in your opinion, what would you think would be the thinnest material weldable with 1/16" 6013 ??
Never did like 6013 for anything , I found that it was bad for porosity. On thin metal I always used 6011 AC or DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) smallest rod available and lowest amperage setting. I found that the welds were not very pretty but sound. Just my two cents. Good video Bob.
I'm having hell welding some thin steel. I made me a set of half doors for my Suzuki samurai and all I have is an old Lincoln ac225 buzzbox. And its coming along but man it's slow and I dont know if I have it too hot or too cold. I keep blowing holes or the rod sticks like crazy. I'm running 40 amp rod stick. 80 amp burn holes. 60 amp burns holes. Using 3/32 6011
Your good with that 6013.I run DCEN too with a Hilco 3/32. Goes down fast. They call it RED EXTRA. Better flux than the regular red.No better sheet metal electrode exists.Over 14(thicker) I go to a 7014 on AC. This is in the field. In the shop I'm MIG or Oxy-acet. No TIG on mild steel. I save that for aluminum, which I'm not very good at. No practice
What about thin rusty sheet metal on equipment out in the field. Like door striker parts. With a miller 300amp gas welder and 3/32? 7018 rod? Or exhaust parts.
I'd love to see some videos using pulse mig welding on sheet metal. I've got an everlast welder with pulse mig now and want to be able to make the best use of it.
How do you know what to set the wire feed speed and voltage to? I took a 3G dual shield flux core test for 1 inch thick metal with a 1/4 inch backing. No specs. Winged the machine settings. Before the test they let me practice on a 1/4 inch thick metal plate, the whole weld slag fell off with a single scrape but when I transitioned to the 1in thick metal, that slag was stuck like glue! I bumped the voltage up some but had buck shots, didn't want to mess with the settings and make it worse and filed them down (saw from one of your previous videos that you should not point your gun upward for uphill, which I did- assuming that's where the buck shots came from) but how do you precisely know what to set the machine to for mig and flux? ...I passed the bend test but guessing they never called because it took me 3 hours to complete...even had undercut on my last cap bead (dangit! lol) guessing I should of filled it up a little bit more or/and turned down the voltage, maybe too hot?
Great Video and thanks for posting! Been fixing exhaust pipes with 3/32" 6013. What's your opinion on welding 16 gauge automotive exhaust pipe using a 3/32" 6013. Uphill/Downhill? Thanks..
@Hello WorldBesides using a thin electrode, add a thin galvanize wire that you fed with another hand. This won't burn the thin metal. Just be careful when you work with galvanized metal, provide good ventilation in your workshop
The day before this video I tried some 6013 1/16 rod on a hrizontal butt weld on 1/8 angle and plate. DC+ ran okay. I`ll give DC- a try next thanks for the video. Used 1/16 6013 because I had it laying around.
Hello. Would you demonstrate welding 11 Gauge sheet metal in the horizontal and or overhead position. Using a Self-shielding flux core wire. This fillet weld seems to be a common weld using purlins.
Yes. Also running stringer beads. Using mig on really thin gauge steel to reduce distortion or blow through always use Stringer beads and adjust amperage accordingly.
I need to weld 16gauge sheet metal and 1/8" box steel. I have a 110/220v 250 amp stick welder... Any suggestions on settings/electrodes? P.s. I only have 110 outlets
Thanks for the info. I'm chopping apart an electrical disconnect cabinet. Shortening the cabinets overall length by 6 inches. 16 gauge, 1/8" 6013 butt joint. Having issues with blowing through the material when I do a solid weld bead. Ive been doing small 2" beads, alternatimg sides and areas to keep the material from warping or blowing out.Running about 70 amps. Anything less and I get an inconsistent arc. Any suggestions?
I was MIG welding Some Thin sheet metal And some white powdery substance came out can you please let me know what that is It's about the thickness of corrugated metal
Remove the galvanizing past where your heat affected zone will be. Don't weld directly over the galvanized portion of the metal. Metal fume fever is no joke. Zinc is poisonous when vaporized. Better yet, just don't weld galvanized metal.
Nice, I soon be but welding 1.5mm box to 3mm wall round seamless tubing with an stick welder. tack in place, then try and move the weld quick over too the thinner metal and back.
Wow! Your work is inspiring- you are educative. I'm looking into using my arc welder to do my VW bodywork (the old models with thicker metal- pardon me- I don't know the exact gauge). Is A.C applicable for the thin sheet metal using 6013? Thanks.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm pretty sure this is a response to a question I asked on one of your older videos. I'm sorry I wasn't more specific with my question, I've been trying to weld 3/32 thick RHS (1" * 1" with 1" * 2" legs) all at 90 degree angles to make a frame for a small table (for knife making, sharpening etc - nothing heavy) and have been having so much trouble not blowing holes through (even at amperage low enough that the electrode doesn't want to get going). Luckily I haven't moved onto the main project yet and have just been practicing on off-cuts to try and get the process down a little bit better. This has been a huge help for a home gamer learning the ropes of SMAW. Previously I had been running electrode positive at between 70 - 75 amps. Thank you again for the advice and the time you took to make this video.
Paul, thanks for the advice, I've been using the cheapest rods you can buy and they come in a shrink-wrapped cardboard box. Until now I've only been storing them with some silica gel beads after opening, so I'll definitely try cooking the electrodes. What temperature would you recommend? Just enough to drive off any residual water? Is there any risk to the oven getting contaminated?
+Kodizze I cook my rods on an electric grill. So I don't know what temperature I use really. Hot? Not super hot though. I set it on about 3 out of 7. A good heat. Damp rods is just one of those topics that no one really talks about much. I know I was having welding issues before I started drying rods. Issues I thought were just me. Drive that moisture out and give it a shot. If you're not drying rods at all now I bet you'll see an improvement. Unless you live in a desert.
If you can weld 14 gauge with 90 amps with a 1/8th inch electrode, how thin could you weld with a 1/16th inch 6013 at 30-35 amps? Also now I know a reason for running electrode negative, thanks for the great videos!
You can weld 26 gauge carbon steel with 1/16" 6013. The problem is you can only do small spot welds, and even that is tricky. To get the tack to wet to both sides and stick, the metal has to be clean. And stick welding is dirty. So as your tacks get closer together, you have to stop and clean between tacks. If you try to continue where you left off without cleaning, chances are your tack will fuse to only one side of the weld. Essentially, you can't keep your tiny spot puddle hot enough for long enough to reliably burn through the film of dirt/dust that the rod leaves, everywhere, without burning a hole. So you won't be doing any production work like this. But on the plus side, you only have to clean a very small area of metal for each tack. Clamp, clean target spot, tack, let cool, repeat. So a dremel tool with a grinding stone can be real handy. Leave the rest of the metal filthy and just clean a little spot immediately before each tack weld. Another tip is to heat the rod on a piece of scrap. Once it is glowing, you can strike a clean arc on your spot, and you can run a 1/16 6013 at only 12 to 18 A, depending on your electrodes and machine.
@@toomuchtruth Thanks. In case you try this, I still remember the process like it was yesterday. For 20-25 thousandths of an inch thick sheet metal, I would set my cheapo inverter welder to 18A, DCEN. 1/16th 6013. The scrap has to be right next to or on top of the project, because you have about 2 seconds to get a clean start on the project before the rod goes cold and you would have to scratch start, again. So after preheating the electrode, you have to whip it to your spot, change gears to steady and bring the rod gradually closer until it goes off. That instant it starts, you have to switch to feed mode, because even at low amps, this rod burns fast. So you have to be in a kinda robotic passive mode waiting for the starter gun to fire. Then jump off the blocks to start feeding into the metal, near perpendicular feed angle. It feels like just an instant, but the rod probably burns for half a second per tack. Too short and it won't stick, but the metal will warp and get dirty, causing problems on the next attempt. Too long and you have a hole. The preheating of the rod seems to allow the arc to start cleanly, and it also means you are putting a blob of red hot metal onto relatively cold sheet metal. If the sheet gets too hot before the blob sticks, it will burn through. I think DCEN also helps to get more heat into the rod and less into the metal.
@@mildyproductive9726 Great instructions man. I have to weld my exhaust so I'm looking to get a cheap welder, but I'd like to get something that can weld the widest range of material. I understand that flux core machines are better for thinner metal but for the same price stick is more powerful, so I might get a stick. Thanks for the pointers!
Would love to see you seam weld an exhaust . Resently did one my self had lots of issuses with blowing holes etc. as it was only my second time using a welder put it down to lack of experience etc . So some usefull tips advice. Show use how it's done..... I did manage it in th end after patching several holes it looked like a Frankenstein hack job. . But who's gona see it under the car ... So please can you do exhaust video thanks
Done lots of exhaust work with an old Lincoln AC225 welder. With 1/6th or 5/64 6011/6013/7014. The key is to have tight fitting joints, and to Clean..clean..clean the aluminized coating off the pipe. Keep the heat low, and jump around. Your not going to run a whole rod. 1-2 inches at a time.
+Weld.com I get helping people out and all but... If someone can't convert units, I'm not sure that I trust them to weld my stuff or determine if their weld or design is sound for the application!
Hey, if possible could you do some nickel welding ( if you have some nickel laying around) ? I'm not familiar with nickel welding. Material, filler, process and joint fit up up to you also. thanks and keep up the good work!!
Man, great! Ok, I gotta try it with negative! I was blowing through even 1/8th plate with 6013 on dcep, but then I also had the heat cranked up too high I'm sure. I don't know what I'm doing. :(((
What kind of difference would I get between a 1/8 3/32 and 1/16 rod (same rod, just different diam.) on the same kind of gauge sheet metal? Im welding up the bed of a pickup (or car...whatever, its a Ranchero..it's confused). I am patch welding and its not perfect, and I never welded before (other than doing practice beads on scrap metal and such...I will say, that looking at you...I suck...royally lol, BUT, looking at other channels with the name weld in them...I do better than those guys, so maybe there;s hope for me yet!)
With a small welder and/or thin metal, the small electrode helps a lot. Sizes smaller than 3/32 are more expensive and might have to be special ordered. But now we have the internet. You may have to search, and search and search some more, but somewhere out there is just the video, and just the electrode you need. Happy hunting.
Jared Jones The first # is the tensile strength of the metal, 6010, 7010, 8010, 9010.. next is which position, and last is the coating. but the fast freeze rods aren't anything like 7018. The 1, 2, etc is positions, the 0, 1, 3, 4, 8, etc is what the rod coating is. The 0 is cellulose. One trick if your 6010's are finger nailing on the ends (really brittle, cracking apart) just dunk it in water.
I like 6010 better than 7018 on 14ga. I do a lot of farm stuff. Small barns, etc. The 6010 runs at lower amps than the 7018. It tolerates dirty material better (who wants to grind prep all joints on something like hay rings). The strength is less than the 7018, but still an overmatch for 36ksi material.
Just found you :) Great video about exactly the rods and 3 types of arc I've been researching. :) You see, I've always been attracted to the idea of welding but spent 33yrs at finish woodworking. Now I have a place out in the rural countryside and would like to begin welding a little bit around the property. I believe I won't have much trouble w/ a little practice and a small Lincoln AC Buzz Box (used) for cheap, welding thicker metals like 5/32" or 1/4" metal like you find on a trailer or zero turn lawn mower. However, I would like to frame up and weld a carport w/red iron which is about 16, 14 or 11 gauge metal. Questions : a) Can I use an AC only welder for these smaller sizes ? What electrode would you recommend ? b) Will the benefits of an AC/DC (p/n) welder version be so substantial to me as a beginner doing infrequent projects as to justify the extra cost ? c) If so, would you recommend DC neg. arc ? And what electrode would you recommend for these thinner metals ? Thank you for your generous consideration, Sincerely .............................. Steph
BOB MOFFET, CAN YOU DO A DEMONSTRATION OF A BRANCH TEST, 90 DEGREE SADDLE WITH 8IN PIPE WELDED WITH THE STICK WELDING PROCESS (SMAW) IF POSSIBLE. THERE ARE NO VIDEOS ON TH-cam ABOUT HOW TO MEASURE, CUT, PREP AND WELD THIS TYPE OF JOINT, THANK YOU. IT WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED
Hey man, I'm really enjoying your videos, I bought a really cheap inverter dc stick welder and trying to weld thing tube steel. It's easier than it looks! I'm in Lawrence KS and grew up in Wichita KS so very familiar with Cowley county
Bob Moffatt hello Mr Moffatt,,I understand that you are a legend but how do u know you have a good weld ? I welded flat on a tjoint , and the bead came out pretty ,,7018 3/32 electrode,,is it a good weld?
That is exactly what I have done ever since, but back in 1974 when I first started welding I did not have such equipment, I ended up buying a device that used two carbon rods with which you brazed.
Bob, plused stick works amazing ! Get your hands on aa ewm, stel or htp machine with puksed stick - you cant believe what those machines can do! It really helps on thin material or really poor fitup....
I think is light can be even.mig is hard to welld he did really good only one thing might you all don't get have to change cables not normol.if don t just holes all over
Hi Bob. I was one of the viewers that requested this video and I just want to thank you for an excellent demonstration. Whenever we go to the farm to hunt it seems like we are always breaking something or modifying our deer stands and I always have my AHP 160 in tow due to its portability. Usually we are working with 16ga square tube and I run 3/32 on DCEN. Great to have you verify that.
I got me an everlast 140 for just that reason. the usefulness of a small light welder can't be underestimated but it really needs to be 110v and 220v compatible to be flexible.
Back in the 70’s I used to stick weld 18 ga galvanized sheet metal when building signs a Bellows Sign co in Akron, Ohio. The slightly vertical welds were much easier. We would always start with shorter rods, thus reducing the shake at rod tip. Galvanized coating produces zinc oxide fumes which are dangerous, but we didn’t know that back then. I always enjoyed fab work. Nice video.
I bet those fumes tasted great lol
I would assume nowadays you can use angle grinder and take off that galvanized coating ?
Thank you so much. This video took me from welding idiot that blows holes in his sheet metal, to just regular welding idiot.
I just love stick welding.
For 14 to 11 gage sheet metal I use 2mm (5/64 inch) E7016 rods made by a Belgium company called Lastek.
These rods run very nice at 40 to 45 amps DCEP with a very soft and controllable arc.
On even thinner sheet (19 or 20 gage) I use 1,5mm (1/16 inch) 6013 rods from the same company on DCEN and 30-40 amps.
When I use 1/8 or even 3/32 rods on 14 gage I have to weld really short stretches otherwise I just burn through the stuff.
Etol1963 That is good information. Thanks for the feedback and support.
Etol1963 I'm surprised it would work so well with EP. (With thin stuff you want the heat in your rod rather then the material -- for people wondering what the difference is between EN/EP)
Hi Len M.
You are right about DCEN on the thin stuff, but the basic E7016 rods from Lastek run a lot better on DCEP than on DCEN like most basic rods. And with only 40 to 45 amps you don't put to much heat in the base material anyway. And those rod really run nice on only 40/45 amps.
I also have 2mm E7018 basic rods from a company called Weldkar and they weld very nice on DCEP and totally crap on DCEN and they need at least 60 amps to not stick all the time. At 70 amps DCEP they run very nice but in my experience that is to much heat for 14 gage.
To clarify: What we call basic rods in europe are called low hydrogen rods in the US.
Arcstreams, what you state there is true, but there is a big difference between consumable smaw electrodes and non-consumable tig tungsten electrodes.
The molten metal that comes of a smaw electrode on DCEP will be a lot hotter than that same metal coming of an smaw electrode on DCEN. The molten metal of a smaw electrode on DCEP will therefore put more heat in the base metal when it is deposited.
I work for a sheet metal company, currently learning to operate the press break and work with bends but I have a huge respect for the art of welding.
Learn to weld asap ! I started in a sheet metal shop and didn't start welding until 5 years later !
Nice demo. Made me think of back in the 60's and early 70's I was one of the few to have a Lincoln ac 225 buzz box. $50 new when I was 15 in '66 and welded a lot of new exhaust pipes and rusted out car frames for my buddies using 3/32" 6013 thru the early years. Thin exhaust pipes around16ga. fast and down hill with great results. That welder, which I still own came complete with helmet, cables and they even threw in a dual carbon rod holder for brazing and heating. I even used that welder to thaw frozen water lines many times on the 75 amp 100% duty cycle setting that had a circle around that setting to show that it is 100% duty cycle. Your video made me reminisce a bit and I bet a lot of other old timers started the same way. Keep them coming . Thanks, Ed K Cleve. Oh.
Eddie Kawecki How difficult is it using the 220 AC only Lincoln buzz box? This is something I am needing to do soon.
It's a great economical way to start out your welding ventures and home/farm and light welding repairs and projects. I see them on CL all the time for cheap. If you are going for a little more pricey welder I would step it up to an AC/DC rig or a multi purpose inverter style. With the right rod, and practice a 220 AC buzz box will serve you just fine. Good Luck.
I remember when I was 9 years old my first welder was a buzz box Lincoln 225 from J.C.Whitney for $75 delivered to my door. I welder so many things with the red tombstone machine. Nice to see others had a fond memory of using the welder. Keep the videos coming !
Phillip Bishop it's rediculous if you're a beginner. Spend $50 get a 300amp single phase bridge rectifier and boom it's a Cadillac. You'll be running 7014 rod like a pro.
Great info! Did this today successfully (no holes) with 3/32 6010 at 60 amps and with 1/8 6013 DCEP at 110 amps and fast travel speed.
It would be nice to see you run the same joint on progressively thinner material to see what the practical limit is.
I would love to see some automotive sheet metal repair work.
Eric Morrison pissers youtube
Too much paint for the 6013 electrodes or even GTAW plus you would have quality control issues on cars with SMAW. Removing paint around holes or places that need patches is a lot of work for your average welder. Also, the smell of electrodes with the the smell of inner E-coat would smell like a lot like ass.
I rather weld sheet with straight CO2 or CO2 with fluxed core, at least CO2 will eat the paint more easily.
@@luciusirving5926 sand the paint off.
Use a mig and do a tack at a time. So look out for the color of your previous tack, once is coming down from bright red tack it again. So youll be sticking an arc on top of your previous tack everytime....its a slow process and patience is a plus.
Lucius Irving you can clean the paint with an angle grinder and a cutting wheel, in fact, you’ll need several passes to strip the paint completely to bare metal
I stopped using the grinding wheel for paint as it has the tendency to gather on the wheel, and increases vibrations until you consume that part of the wheel; a cutting wheel doesn’t pose this issue, but you want to drag it over your work to avoid making any cuts
this helped me so much, i wish i wouldve seen before burning holes into my work. Thank you so much, going to try it tomorrow!
Thank you. I tried using my 110v CC welder a few years back to butt weld miter joints on .065 wall square tubing using a 3000w generator in a truck yard. I got it done with 6013 rods, but I used DCEP and it was very tricky to maintain the arc. Thank you- great video. (and I realize that the generator is undersized by 2K watts at any weld voltage).
Great demonstration. I would like to see you guys do this with a 1/16 6013, I was using this to weld up some really thin square tubing I'm not 100% sure without going back and looking what the thickness was but it was a lot thinner than what you were welding on there. And the joint was like a flare bevel I guess because of the rounded corners on the square tubing. I had a heck of a time with the slag running out in front of my rod and I got a few stretches of really good weld but some stretches with slag inclusions. I tried to keep a rod angle to push the slag behind me but it was a booger, and a few times I did burn through the tubing.
Good video, but 14 ga is pretty darn thick. Please do a video on really thin sheet metal like 16 ga and thinner.
like the sheet metal you'd find on a car body.
14 gauge is thicker than 1/8 not very then at all. I wanna see 1/16th tube welded up
@@Jdww89 14 ga. is .0747 in. thick and 1/16in. = .0625 1/8 in. is .125 (far thicker than 14 ga.)
14ga = 2mm
1/8 = 3.2mm
14 gauge pretty thick and downhill angle???
Thanks!
Here in Mexico, 18 gauge is welded using 6013 routinely when fabricating gates and doors.
I've welded miles of 18ga. butt, and vertical fillet with 6011 down hand using an ancient Lincoln torpedo welder.
.
i welded some heavy stuff a week ago with 7048 downhill. and i must say. the slag came off super nice. and it went superfast. you guys should make a vid on that. cuz alot of people dont have fluxcore settup. or only have 100 % co2. so downhill and uphill can be tricky for most people. Downhill 7048 is fast and gets the job done. with easy slag removal.
I can't get that rod around here any more. Everyone runs flux /metal cored now. Fun stuff though.
oh thats to bad. funny enought. 6010 rod here in norway is impossible to get. ive been to 4 different welding supply stores. and thay dont even know what it is. thay offer me 6013 :P so i have that. its funny how Metal is considered and handaled different from contry to contry. Here everyone uses 7016 instead of 7018. strangest thing
Looks like after i looked through half of the norwegian esab homepage. Esac.no I finally found "pipeweld 6010". Its a real 6010 electrode with all the specs it is supposed to have and looks to me like you can buy it in norway - maybe your welding distributor needs to order it and does not have it on the shelf - and maybe it is really expensive - but to me most likely it looks like you can buy it.....
first of all u probably need to show them a print of the actuall pipeweld 6010. and then get them to spessially order it to the store. and yes, everything is possible. if there is esab distributor here thay surely can get it for u. thats the only one ive found too. probably take 1 month for them,
but u probbably gotta pay 3 times what u would buy if it would be in stock. and ran as
our main distributor sells ELGA. and i had to ask 3 times just for a pack of 4047 aluminum rod pack for cast aluminium welding. and i after 3 months havent gottem them. complained 3 times. and now its on the way :P
Not easy getting stuff thats not on the shelf. even if its distributors.
i was even told from the elga distributor not to use the english book. becaus thay dont run stocks of some of the stuff there. :P haha
blaster91 that is crazy .... unbelievable by american standards .... here 6010 everybody has them .... 4.5 kg can $24 lincoln 5p+
Good video. ive been using 1/16 308L rods for 10 years welding stainless 304, 316, 430 from 20g, 18g and 16g you have just got to have a machine that you can turn the power right down.
You provided more useful information for stick welding in five minutes than I got than I got from my stick welding instructor some 40 years ago. Thank you.
I have a project that requires 2x2 square tubing with 1/16 inch wall, mild steel. Any chance that could be done with an AC only Lincoln tombstone type welder? My only other options are oxy/acet welding (I’m mediocre)) or bronze brazing (which I’m very good at). Any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Would it be ok to stick weld a 18 gauge galvenized sheet metal ? What stick would you recommend ?
I had needed to do some welding on my truck for a while and wasn't comfortable with the 6011 or 6013 I had in my garage.
Well, at work (as a boilermaker) I finally got an "opportunity" to weld on an expansion joint that was as thin or thinner than the sheet metal on my body panels.
The guy on the shift before me had a bunch of 7010 and a bunch of 6013. Neither ran right for me, no matter how hot or cold it would just not start. Once the 6013 did start, it just blew the holes out worse.
Took myself down to the tool room and asked for a fat wad of 3/32 6010. Ask and ye shall receive. It worked beautifully once dialed in.
So now I have a tall boy full of that same exact 6010, from the same supplier as work. Now I'm just waiting on a nice day to put those panels on.
That's thick sheet. Really thick! How about what we used to weld 1.6mm (16ga - 1/16"). Most of the welding I had to do in the field to repair grain handling equipment for farmers was 1.6mm. We used MMA (Stick) because it was done invariably in a paddock somewhere and blowing a gale. Besides it was before the days of small portable MIG units.
Lincoln Petrol powered welder.
Thanks for the vid am teaching myself how to weld coz I have to fix my house and times are tough. Videos like yours are awesome.
When doing SMAW on sheet, I have to use a bare rod, thicker than a coat hanger of like 1/4 of an inch. To fill holes that the my AC buzz box may have made over sheet. On my project, I just put fat tack welds on metal since it's paper thin.
Awesome. You made that beautiful weld look easy... I know from experience that is a tricky weld to do that good 😎
This post is 4 years old. But I have to ask can 6013 be used to weld truck frame ???
nice video Mr. Moffat. i have some 6013 and ill try the DC-, never think about it!!! in your opinion, what would you think would be the thinnest material weldable with 1/16" 6013 ??
Never did like 6013 for anything , I found that it was bad for porosity. On thin metal I always used 6011 AC or DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) smallest rod available and lowest amperage setting. I found that the welds were not very pretty but sound. Just my two cents. Good video Bob.
I hear ya, fuck the E6013! but I need it from my dad for some thin metal projects.
A quick lick with a grinder or flap wheel and it 😻purrrrrfect. It just takes a little longer that’s all
Using a high nickel rod such as for stainless steel is THE trick for this sort of thing.
I'm having hell welding some thin steel. I made me a set of half doors for my Suzuki samurai and all I have is an old Lincoln ac225 buzzbox. And its coming along but man it's slow and I dont know if I have it too hot or too cold. I keep blowing holes or the rod sticks like crazy. I'm running 40 amp rod stick. 80 amp burn holes. 60 amp burns holes. Using 3/32 6011
Your good with that 6013.I run DCEN too with a Hilco 3/32. Goes down fast. They call it RED EXTRA. Better flux than the regular red.No better sheet metal electrode exists.Over 14(thicker) I go to a 7014 on AC. This is in the field. In the shop I'm MIG or Oxy-acet. No TIG on mild steel. I save that for aluminum, which I'm not very good at. No practice
Thanks so much! Could you use this for auto body sheet metal?
What about thin rusty sheet metal on equipment out in the field. Like door striker parts. With a miller 300amp gas welder and 3/32? 7018 rod? Or exhaust parts.
I'd love to see some videos using pulse mig welding on sheet metal. I've got an everlast welder with pulse mig now and want to be able to make the best use of it.
How do you know what to set the wire feed speed and voltage to? I took a 3G dual shield flux core test for 1 inch thick metal with a 1/4 inch backing. No specs. Winged the machine settings. Before the test they let me practice on a 1/4 inch thick metal plate, the whole weld slag fell off with a single scrape but when I transitioned to the 1in thick metal, that slag was stuck like glue! I bumped the voltage up some but had buck shots, didn't want to mess with the settings and make it worse and filed them down (saw from one of your previous videos that you should not point your gun upward for uphill, which I did- assuming that's where the buck shots came from) but how do you precisely know what to set the machine to for mig and flux? ...I passed the bend test but guessing they never called because it took me 3 hours to complete...even had undercut on my last cap bead (dangit! lol) guessing I should of filled it up a little bit more or/and turned down the voltage, maybe too hot?
What happened with Wyatt is he gone for good I like the videos we have been getting from bob lots of great information just curious
Great Video and thanks for posting! Been fixing exhaust pipes with 3/32" 6013. What's your opinion on welding 16 gauge automotive exhaust pipe using a 3/32" 6013. Uphill/Downhill? Thanks..
AMAZING.. would it be possible to spot weld thin metal with a stick at 80 amps?
Can you run a 6013 vertically or will it droop?
I don't consider 14GA to be sheet metal. I think anything larger than 18GA isn't sheet metal
You all are crazy did your coopins fall on your head while trying to weld overhead.
@Hello WorldBesides using a thin electrode, add a thin galvanize wire that you fed with another hand. This won't burn the thin metal. Just be careful when you work with galvanized metal, provide good ventilation in your workshop
The day before this video I tried some 6013 1/16 rod on a hrizontal butt weld on 1/8 angle and plate. DC+ ran okay. I`ll give DC- a try next thanks for the video. Used 1/16 6013 because I had it laying around.
Hello. Would you demonstrate welding 11 Gauge sheet metal in the horizontal and or overhead position. Using a Self-shielding flux core wire. This fillet weld seems to be a common weld using purlins.
Would fast travel speed help avoiding overheating hence potential holes?
Yes. Also running stringer beads. Using mig on really thin gauge steel to reduce distortion or blow through always use Stringer beads and adjust amperage accordingly.
I need to weld 16gauge sheet metal and 1/8" box steel. I have a 110/220v 250 amp stick welder... Any suggestions on settings/electrodes?
P.s. I only have 110 outlets
Thanks for the info. I'm chopping apart an electrical disconnect cabinet. Shortening the cabinets overall length by 6 inches. 16 gauge, 1/8" 6013 butt joint. Having issues with blowing through the material when I do a solid weld bead. Ive been doing small 2" beads, alternatimg sides and areas to keep the material from warping or blowing out.Running about 70 amps. Anything less and I get an inconsistent arc. Any suggestions?
I was MIG welding Some Thin sheet metal And some white powdery substance came out can you please let me know what that is It's about the thickness of corrugated metal
White powder is zinc oxide.
REQUEST : Please show some tips on Mig welding galvanized sheet steel! Would love your input.
Remove the galvanizing past where your heat affected zone will be. Don't weld directly over the galvanized portion of the metal. Metal fume fever is no joke. Zinc is poisonous when vaporized. Better yet, just don't weld galvanized metal.
i agree needs to be thinner i guess love to see him use my ac 225 on some thin sheet ;]
Can you make a video on 18-20 gauge on galvanized steel (or any sheet metal) butt joint or lap joint with the mug process?
I would love to see a fillet weld on 14ga c purling to 3/16, stick and mig configurations.
Thanks for your video!!!!
How thin material is possible to weld this way?
i also learned with 6011 and 6013 ..its great stuff..can weld anything with it..
Great video Bob as always. Great information always learning from you thanks and keep up the good work.
I used the same rod as you have and same gauge metal ..at 70amps it melted the metal completely. Why would that be?
Nice, I soon be but welding 1.5mm box to 3mm wall round seamless tubing with an stick welder. tack in place, then try and move the weld quick over too the thinner metal and back.
7014 on ac. just enough amps to keep it lit. short atc is essential
What about welding sheet metal with a ac stick welder
Wow! Your work is inspiring- you are educative.
I'm looking into using my arc welder to do my VW bodywork (the old models with thicker metal- pardon me- I don't know the exact gauge). Is A.C applicable for the thin sheet metal using 6013?
Thanks.
You guys don’t have a video on 16G mig welding. it seems to be common for grease duct systems. could we see some of that?
I was would like to see the steps to welding cast iron if possible.... Thanks Mr. Moffett
show the weld difrence between 6010 5p+ and 5p rods on t joint 2 f and what polarity do you run 6011 rods on
I run E6011 on AC or DCEP
Thank you so much for this video! I'm pretty sure this is a response to a question I asked on one of your older videos. I'm sorry I wasn't more specific with my question, I've been trying to weld 3/32 thick RHS (1" * 1" with 1" * 2" legs) all at 90 degree angles to make a frame for a small table (for knife making, sharpening etc - nothing heavy) and have been having so much trouble not blowing holes through (even at amperage low enough that the electrode doesn't want to get going). Luckily I haven't moved onto the main project yet and have just been practicing on off-cuts to try and get the process down a little bit better. This has been a huge help for a home gamer learning the ropes of SMAW. Previously I had been running electrode positive at between 70 - 75 amps. Thank you again for the advice and the time you took to make this video.
Are you baking your rods? When all else fails cook them suckers. Doing that helps me out a lot. Don't think they're dry, *KNOW* they're dry!
Paul, thanks for the advice, I've been using the cheapest rods you can buy and they come in a shrink-wrapped cardboard box. Until now I've only been storing them with some silica gel beads after opening, so I'll definitely try cooking the electrodes. What temperature would you recommend? Just enough to drive off any residual water? Is there any risk to the oven getting contaminated?
+Kodizze I cook my rods on an electric grill. So I don't know what temperature I use really. Hot? Not super hot though. I set it on about 3 out of 7. A good heat. Damp rods is just one of those topics that no one really talks about much. I know I was having welding issues before I started drying rods. Issues I thought were just me. Drive that moisture out and give it a shot. If you're not drying rods at all now I bet you'll see an improvement. Unless you live in a desert.
does this stick fit for motorcycle frame welding
Thanks a million for the tips. Works great
which rod will you recommend for 4x4 or 6x6 tubular steel?
If you can weld 14 gauge with 90 amps with a 1/8th inch electrode, how thin could you weld with a 1/16th inch 6013 at 30-35 amps? Also now I know a reason for running electrode negative, thanks for the great videos!
You can weld 26 gauge carbon steel with 1/16" 6013. The problem is you can only do small spot welds, and even that is tricky. To get the tack to wet to both sides and stick, the metal has to be clean. And stick welding is dirty. So as your tacks get closer together, you have to stop and clean between tacks.
If you try to continue where you left off without cleaning, chances are your tack will fuse to only one side of the weld. Essentially, you can't keep your tiny spot puddle hot enough for long enough to reliably burn through the film of dirt/dust that the rod leaves, everywhere, without burning a hole.
So you won't be doing any production work like this. But on the plus side, you only have to clean a very small area of metal for each tack. Clamp, clean target spot, tack, let cool, repeat. So a dremel tool with a grinding stone can be real handy. Leave the rest of the metal filthy and just clean a little spot immediately before each tack weld.
Another tip is to heat the rod on a piece of scrap. Once it is glowing, you can strike a clean arc on your spot, and you can run a 1/16 6013 at only 12 to 18 A, depending on your electrodes and machine.
@@mildyproductive9726 Great info! thanks
@@toomuchtruth Thanks. In case you try this, I still remember the process like it was yesterday.
For 20-25 thousandths of an inch thick sheet metal, I would set my cheapo inverter welder to 18A, DCEN. 1/16th 6013. The scrap has to be right next to or on top of the project, because you have about 2 seconds to get a clean start on the project before the rod goes cold and you would have to scratch start, again. So after preheating the electrode, you have to whip it to your spot, change gears to steady and bring the rod gradually closer until it goes off. That instant it starts, you have to switch to feed mode, because even at low amps, this rod burns fast. So you have to be in a kinda robotic passive mode waiting for the starter gun to fire. Then jump off the blocks to start feeding into the metal, near perpendicular feed angle. It feels like just an instant, but the rod probably burns for half a second per tack. Too short and it won't stick, but the metal will warp and get dirty, causing problems on the next attempt. Too long and you have a hole.
The preheating of the rod seems to allow the arc to start cleanly, and it also means you are putting a blob of red hot metal onto relatively cold sheet metal. If the sheet gets too hot before the blob sticks, it will burn through. I think DCEN also helps to get more heat into the rod and less into the metal.
@@mildyproductive9726 Great instructions man. I have to weld my exhaust so I'm looking to get a cheap welder, but I'd like to get something that can weld the widest range of material. I understand that flux core machines are better for thinner metal but for the same price stick is more powerful, so I might get a stick. Thanks for the pointers!
this surprised me and i would definately like to see 1/16 rod
Bob you’re the best 👍
I ran some 6013's yesterday around 75 amps AC with the Lincoln Electric "Buzz Box" ran a smooth arc though
I learned how to weld with 6013 on my first everlast welder. It brings back some good memories.
Could I use 7018 3/32?
Try 6011 and w a 7018 but... Break the flux off of the 7018 and use it as a filler metal. On any thickness. Just want to see what you can do.
Would love to see you seam weld an exhaust . Resently did one my self had lots of issuses with blowing holes etc. as it was only my second time using a welder put it down to lack of experience etc . So some usefull tips advice. Show use how it's done..... I did manage it in th end after patching several holes it looked like a Frankenstein hack job. . But who's gona see it under the car ... So please can you do exhaust video thanks
Done lots of exhaust work with an old Lincoln AC225 welder. With 1/6th or 5/64 6011/6013/7014. The key is to have tight fitting joints, and to Clean..clean..clean the aluminized coating off the pipe. Keep the heat low, and jump around. Your not going to run a whole rod. 1-2 inches at a time.
Hi you do great videos, my little problem is I don't no imperial only metric the welding rods and the steel here are in metric keep up the good work
Thanks so much for the input. Good stuff.
Michael, we are going to try and start putting metric measurements in all the videos as well.
Thank you for that it will be a big help
Maybe just flash some text on the screen when Bob mentions a measurement.
+Weld.com I get helping people out and all but... If someone can't convert units, I'm not sure that I trust them to weld my stuff or determine if their weld or design is sound for the application!
Can you do this with flux core?
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
I heard that 6011 Hobart rods are good for sheet metal
How did it not burn through? have you welded 14 gauge rhs or shs with the stick? Great video thank you for uploading.
Can u please upload a demo for 2F using electrode E6013 please
Hey, if possible could you do some nickel welding ( if you have some nickel laying around) ? I'm not familiar with nickel welding. Material, filler, process and joint fit up up to you also. thanks and keep up the good work!!
Man, great! Ok, I gotta try it with negative! I was blowing through even 1/8th plate with 6013 on dcep, but then I also had the heat cranked up too high I'm sure. I don't know what I'm doing. :(((
I'd love to see a video on repairing tractor rims that have rusted and started flaking out.
Very nice weld !
What kind of difference would I get between a 1/8 3/32 and 1/16 rod (same rod, just different diam.) on the same kind of gauge sheet metal? Im welding up the bed of a pickup (or car...whatever, its a Ranchero..it's confused). I am patch welding and its not perfect, and I never welded before (other than doing practice beads on scrap metal and such...I will say, that looking at you...I suck...royally lol, BUT, looking at other channels with the name weld in them...I do better than those guys, so maybe there;s hope for me yet!)
With a small welder and/or thin metal, the small electrode helps a lot. Sizes smaller than 3/32 are more expensive and might have to be special ordered.
But now we have the internet. You may have to search, and search and search some more, but somewhere out there is just the video, and just the electrode you need. Happy hunting.
This Guy is a Pro 👍
so is pushing better than pulling for thin metal
Sure answered my questions for my first weld of something that is not junk metal lol
I havent tried 7010 before is it sort of like 6010 or 7018?
Jared Jones 6010 and 7010 are way different than 7018.
Jared Jones The first # is the tensile strength of the metal, 6010, 7010, 8010, 9010.. next is which position, and last is the coating. but the fast freeze rods aren't anything like 7018. The 1, 2, etc is positions, the 0, 1, 3, 4, 8, etc is what the rod coating is. The 0 is cellulose. One trick if your 6010's are finger nailing on the ends (really brittle, cracking apart) just dunk it in water.
Ohh ok, thanks for the advice though
Jared Jones 7010 is a cellulose rod just like 6010. it has a higher tensile strengh though
Thank you ! Helped me lot !! Great video!!
Very useful for making your own fuel tanks
GREAT DEMO!!! THANKS!!!!
Thats a really nice weld!
Can you weld thinner prices without over penetrating?
I use 3/32 7018 all the time on 14 gage outside
I like 6010 better than 7018 on 14ga. I do a lot of farm stuff. Small barns, etc. The 6010 runs at lower amps than the 7018. It tolerates dirty material better (who wants to grind prep all joints on something like hay rings). The strength is less than the 7018, but still an overmatch for 36ksi material.
Just found you :) Great video about exactly the rods and 3 types of arc I've been researching. :) You see, I've always been attracted to the idea of welding but spent 33yrs at finish woodworking. Now I have a place out in the rural countryside and would like to begin welding a little bit around the property. I believe I won't have much trouble w/ a little practice and a small Lincoln AC Buzz Box (used) for cheap, welding thicker metals like 5/32" or 1/4" metal like you find on a trailer or zero turn lawn mower. However, I would like to frame up and weld a carport w/red iron which is about 16, 14 or 11 gauge metal.
Questions :
a) Can I use an AC only welder for these smaller sizes ? What electrode would you recommend ?
b) Will the benefits of an AC/DC (p/n) welder version be so substantial to me as a beginner doing infrequent projects as to justify the extra cost ?
c) If so, would you recommend DC neg. arc ? And what electrode would you recommend for these thinner metals ?
Thank you for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ..............................
Steph
BOB MOFFET,
CAN YOU DO A DEMONSTRATION OF A BRANCH TEST, 90 DEGREE SADDLE WITH 8IN PIPE WELDED WITH THE STICK WELDING PROCESS (SMAW) IF POSSIBLE. THERE ARE NO VIDEOS ON TH-cam ABOUT HOW TO MEASURE, CUT, PREP AND WELD THIS TYPE OF JOINT, THANK YOU. IT WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED
Hey man, I'm really enjoying your videos, I bought a really cheap inverter dc stick welder and trying to weld thing tube steel. It's easier than it looks! I'm in Lawrence KS and grew up in Wichita KS so very familiar with Cowley county
would you be a dear and do something on laser welding
Radical Edwards I will as soon as I get the laser welder fixed.
Bob Moffatt hello Mr Moffatt,,I understand that you are a legend but how do u know you have a good weld ? I welded flat on a tjoint , and the bead came out pretty ,,7018 3/32 electrode,,is it a good weld?
great weld there !👍😃
Like to see 24 gauge or a car panel welded with stick. I tried it many years ago and gave up trying after a while.
24 gauge is tough. Smallest rod available and multiple tacks. I would GMAW weld it with .023 wire. Or GTAW.
That is exactly what I have done ever since, but back in 1974 when I first started welding I did not have such equipment, I ended up buying a device that used two carbon rods with which you brazed.
Bob, plused stick works amazing ! Get your hands on aa ewm, stel or htp machine with puksed stick - you cant believe what those machines can do! It really helps on thin material or really poor fitup....
Can u drag rod on that
I think is light can be even.mig is hard to welld he did really good only one thing might you all don't get have to change cables not normol.if don t just holes all over