You and Steve Ramsey are my go-to guys, Colin. You both take so much of the nonsense and tool snobbery out of woodworking , which makes it so much more accessible for normal people. For this I thank you!
🤣🤣 Couldn't have said it better! Tool snobbery. We come here to get skills and tips on the trade; not to find out which bells and whistles are on which brands.
From all my trials with different jointing methods I have found that you need almost a perfectly flat board in order to joint well. If it has a cup, forget it, you will not get a straight edge until you flatten it. I now use my router sled to flatten it, then take it to either my TS sled or router table to joint. It will never be as good as a real jointer, but it does a pretty good job. My point is that for anyone thinking this is an easy way to get around needing a jointer, just be prepared to run into issues if you don't have at least one really, really flat face to place on the table or sled. if your board is turned due to a cup, or whatever, your jointed edge will be at an angle. So basically you either need to find a perfect board and try to joint it before the moisture changes in your shop, or be prepared to have to take time to flatten one side.
I’ve been saying this till I’m blue in the face, but nobody I’ve found making these videos seem to mention it as though it’s not essential, so you finish with a square edge. Good on you for bringing this up 👍
A router sled is nothing more than a small planer. And with a planer you can use a sled to joint as well. So I would disagree with you, but we can discuss further :-)
Another technique: Router table with Spiral bit (up to 2"!) with the out feed face of the fence set (shimmed) forward 1/64" or 1/32" beyond the in feed fence face, and then set the face of the out feed flush to the cutting edge of the but - and run the wood piece edge through it till it is straight! Real simple set up - perfect results - really appreciate your topic/content!! Thanks
I always look forward to your videos. I have only been woodworking for about 40 years, but I almost always learn a new tip, trick, technique or something else from you. Thanks.
Fabulous video how-to Colin. I like the router idea where the cutter is moving rather than the piece. I've also found it easier to use a straight edge and circular saw when handling longer pieces because I find it difficult to run longer pieces tight against the fence all the way through a table saw cut. Moving the motor instead of the piece is an advantage to me. I'm thinking about a 4 piece 3" thick table top, 10" wide each and about 5 feet long and how to join with limited tools. My worries are the handling of heavy material on a table saw and keeping straight against the fence with of course a long enough jig. We are rather unseasoned with jigs and table saw helper pieces at the moment. Panel or track saws have this advantage when pieces get big, heavy, or even long. As my knowledge increases of wood techniques I can always glean something from your videos or a light bulb turns on to an idea.
This is super helpful. Again... I only saw this because I searched for videos on jointing without a jointer. It didn’t show in my top searches. But it showed up as a suggestion as the next video. I don’t know why your videos don’t sow more.
My jointer is just an old 6" cast iron Craftsman but I'm glad to have it. I can at least flatten on it. Your techniques #1 and #2 look like they would work really well for lumber that's longer than I would care to joint on a smaller jointer, a situation that I see coming like a freight train.
I had that same jointer. I have a small 10' x 16' shop, once I figured out hand planes I got rid of it. I like a quieter and less dusty environment too. Not for all but I like it. I am also the type of moron that would take the board in the video and take a rip hand saw to true up the edge first too.
I needed this, I'm new to building things like this, I can't afford to pay for a planer and really don't have the room for it too. Thanks for what you do on this channel, I've learned a lot
You seem familiar to me. I knew a George and Elaine Knecht in Gerritsen Beach in Brooklyn NY around 1963-1967 time frame. Just figured you may be related. Just curious, your name reminded me of childhood friends. I love your TH-cam channel and wood shop videos.
I have a Freud thin kerf rip blade and absolutely love it but you should let your viewer know they also need a thin kerf riving knife/splitter so the wood doesn’t bind.
plywood against the fence double sided tape the board onto the plywood with the fence set to rip atleast a little bit of the board off the entire length pass it though pull off plywood, flip board so straight cut edge is against the fence do step 2 without the plywood in place done- also works for squaring off the ends as well
Not Freud Diablo. Freud Industrial. The thin one may be Diablo though. But I believe Freud Industrial also makes thin kerf blades. I think they are much better than the Diablo blades. Also may want to mention using a blade stabilizer with the thin kerf blades to prevent wobble. Great video though, as usual.
I had to think about it too. It allows you to cut a thicker plank, since the thickness of #2's baseplate eats up cut depth. You also don't have an overhang of wastewood that droops and falls as you cut. #3 also shields you from the saw blade, good for beginners.
I don't know if that can still help you but to get the best finish with a router (and the safest use too), set the speed as high as possible for the bit diameter. A typical flush trim bit is 1/2" wide (~13mm), a template bit is 5/8" (~16mm). With these diameters, you can go at full speed without any concern, which is generally 22000-30000 rpm depending on your router power. If you see burning marks or if it vibrates too much, you can decrease the speed, but I would stay in the upper half of you router's range. I rarely use the other half myself.
I'm not sure about those thin kerf blades. I've been getting wobble with them. I changed to a thicker blade and the wobble was gone. This was even on a brand new saw with no bearing wear. any comments/suggestions?
Hey, Colin, I used a 48" level with grip tape on one edge to joint a couple of boards and it seemed to work fine. I also used a 12" level with Temu double sticky tape (trying it out) with a small piece, and it too worked fine. Is that advisable?
If the edges are wonky the wood will rock against the fence as you push it through. This will transfer to the cut edge and also risk kick back. You should only use a flat edge against the fence.
After using the first jig to get the first straight edge. Why not just use the fence to get the second straight edge? I do filling get why we need the second jig in this video. Thanks!
Nevermind. I think I get it now. This was 3 separate ways to get a straight edge. Thanks Colin. The way you explain things is very intuitive and helpful.
I've done this long enough that I know I could figure out why, but I'm just too lazy. So why would you ever want to use that last jig, rather than using the straight board on the other side of the blade, just riding along the fence? No jig needed. Like I said, I'm sure there's probably a good reason, but I'm busy building a couple end tables, and don't have the time to ponder on it, or test it.
Different methods are more appropriate for the size of the piece you are jointing. For instance, the L fence and router method would work well on a large panel that wouldn't fit on a tapering jig.
I've watched and loved many of your videos but lately the number of commercials is really too much. I know you need to earn a living off of this but there are so many it really kills the joy (for me). :(
“Purchasing wood” Funny how people will use the word “purchase” whenever they are on TV or radio, video, etc. I guess it sounds more official or proper sounding but I guarantee you they won’t use the word “purchase” in every day life with friends, etc. I’m going to the lumber store to purchase some 2x4’s. No way, friends would laugh you silly. I’m going to BUY some 2x4’s That’s better. Do you purchase cheeseburgers too? Funny things people say.
You and Steve Ramsey are my go-to guys, Colin.
You both take so much of the nonsense and tool snobbery out of woodworking , which makes it so much more accessible for normal people. For this I thank you!
🤣🤣 Couldn't have said it better! Tool snobbery. We come here to get skills and tips on the trade; not to find out which bells and whistles are on which brands.
From all my trials with different jointing methods I have found that you need almost a perfectly flat board in order to joint well. If it has a cup, forget it, you will not get a straight edge until you flatten it. I now use my router sled to flatten it, then take it to either my TS sled or router table to joint. It will never be as good as a real jointer, but it does a pretty good job.
My point is that for anyone thinking this is an easy way to get around needing a jointer, just be prepared to run into issues if you don't have at least one really, really flat face to place on the table or sled. if your board is turned due to a cup, or whatever, your jointed edge will be at an angle.
So basically you either need to find a perfect board and try to joint it before the moisture changes in your shop, or be prepared to have to take time to flatten one side.
I’ve been saying this till I’m blue in the face, but nobody I’ve found making these videos seem to mention it as though it’s not essential, so you finish with a square edge. Good on you for bringing this up 👍
A router sled is nothing more than a small planer. And with a planer you can use a sled to joint as well. So I would disagree with you, but we can discuss further :-)
Another technique: Router table with Spiral bit (up to 2"!) with the out feed face of the fence set (shimmed) forward 1/64" or 1/32" beyond the in feed fence face, and then set the face of the out feed flush to the cutting edge of the but - and run the wood piece edge through it till it is straight! Real simple set up - perfect results - really appreciate your topic/content!! Thanks
I always look forward to your videos. I have only been woodworking for about 40 years, but I almost always learn a new tip, trick, technique or something else from you. Thanks.
You can also use a smaller diameter blade on your "under powered" table saw to reduce strain on the motor.
@
Then smaller and thinner for ultra underpowered saws
3 Good options that are tried, tested and true! 👌🏽
Cheers mate 👍🏽
Wow unbelievable! This guy is the woodworker guru. His knowledge is beyond real. Great video!!
Fabulous video how-to Colin.
I like the router idea where the cutter is moving rather than the piece. I've also found it easier to use a straight edge and circular saw when handling longer pieces because I find it difficult to run longer pieces tight against the fence all the way through a table saw cut. Moving the motor instead of the piece is an advantage to me.
I'm thinking about a 4 piece 3" thick table top, 10" wide each and about 5 feet long and how to join with limited tools. My worries are the handling of heavy material on a table saw and keeping straight against the fence with of course a long enough jig. We are rather unseasoned with jigs and table saw helper pieces at the moment. Panel or track saws have this advantage when pieces get big, heavy, or even long.
As my knowledge increases of wood techniques I can always glean something from your videos or a light bulb turns on to an idea.
This is super helpful. Again... I only saw this because I searched for videos on jointing without a jointer. It didn’t show in my top searches. But it showed up as a suggestion as the next video. I don’t know why your videos don’t sow more.
Nice meeting you today ,the guy in the white truck
My jointer is just an old 6" cast iron Craftsman but I'm glad to have it. I can at least flatten on it. Your techniques #1 and #2 look like they would work really well for lumber that's longer than I would care to joint on a smaller jointer, a situation that I see coming like a freight train.
I had that same jointer. I have a small 10' x 16' shop, once I figured out hand planes I got rid of it. I like a quieter and less dusty environment too. Not for all but I like it. I am also the type of moron that would take the board in the video and take a rip hand saw to true up the edge first too.
I'd love a link to that straight edge. If you trust, it I would too. Thanks for all of your instructional content.
I needed this, I'm new to building things like this, I can't afford to pay for a planer and really don't have the room for it too. Thanks for what you do on this channel, I've learned a lot
All three in one place. Thanks.
Thanks, your video is absolutely helpful, very detailed and a lot of experience in it 👍🏻
Old knowledge never dies.
...thank YOU VERY MUCH !!!!
Nicely done & explained Colin! 👍👍👏👏😉😉
You seem familiar to me. I knew a George and Elaine Knecht in Gerritsen Beach in Brooklyn NY around 1963-1967 time frame. Just figured you may be related. Just curious, your name reminded me of childhood friends. I love your TH-cam channel and wood shop videos.
I have a Freud thin kerf rip blade and absolutely love it but you should let your viewer know they also need a thin kerf riving knife/splitter so the wood doesn’t bind.
Only if they need one.
Love This Machine
Thank you, I really appreciate it
Nice vid
Thanks
Thanks for the great video Colin. 👍
Fantastic tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
as usual, perfect. thank you.
Thank you
Great stuff pal
Really enjoyed it 😊. Very informative 👍
I could use this technique to make new planks that are of the same dimensions as the older one.
Genius. I need to make a tapering jig like that. My table saw miter tracks are garbage so i cant use any jig that requires the slots
Thank you great video
plywood against the fence
double sided tape the board onto the plywood with the fence set to rip atleast a little bit of the board off the entire length
pass it though
pull off plywood, flip board so straight cut edge is against the fence
do step 2 without the plywood in place
done- also works for squaring off the ends as well
this will be used by myself. Just starting, have a 10" table saw, and no jointer in the foreseable future. but this one seems a no-brainer :3
Great tips as always! Thanks!
Three useful and informative tips. Thanks.
richard
--
The second Law of Demos (and Frisbee): Never make a statement more predictive than "Watch this."
Not Freud Diablo. Freud Industrial. The thin one may be Diablo though. But I believe Freud Industrial also makes thin kerf blades. I think they are much better than the Diablo blades. Also may want to mention using a blade stabilizer with the thin kerf blades to prevent wobble. Great video though, as usual.
Making a bigger plexi glass plate for the trim router would do as well though ..
Jus a suggestion.....
Thanks for sharing that!
Merci Très bonne information.
Cool!!! Thank You For The Info!!!! 😎👍😃
Super useful & helpful tips!
My router is the "all purpose tool". I use it as a saw, router, planer, drill, jointer etc.
Nice instructive quality video.
I’m confused on the primary reason to use version 3 instead of the sled. Seems like it is more complicated than a sled or a router
It is, there is no need for an L fence, just use the sled with clamps.
I think the reason would be space - it takes up much less space.
Not only less space, its geared towards beginners who may not have a router or other things....
I had to think about it too. It allows you to cut a thicker plank, since the thickness of #2's baseplate eats up cut depth. You also don't have an overhang of wastewood that droops and falls as you cut. #3 also shields you from the saw blade, good for beginners.
Great information thank you!
Curious question don’t know if I missed it but with the router what speed do you have it set to ? Thank you so much for all of your videos !!!
I don't know if that can still help you but to get the best finish with a router (and the safest use too), set the speed as high as possible for the bit diameter. A typical flush trim bit is 1/2" wide (~13mm), a template bit is 5/8" (~16mm). With these diameters, you can go at full speed without any concern, which is generally 22000-30000 rpm depending on your router power.
If you see burning marks or if it vibrates too much, you can decrease the speed, but I would stay in the upper half of you router's range. I rarely use the other half myself.
6:00 thats me.. got an 80t on my saw and it starts rough since the blade is heavier.
I'm not sure about those thin kerf blades. I've been getting wobble with them. I changed to a thicker blade and the wobble was gone. This was even on a brand new saw with no bearing wear. any comments/suggestions?
All good!
How can I flatten a side of a 2x4 if I don’t have a jointer or planer? It’s a bit narrow to run on the table saw.
Hey, Colin, I used a 48" level with grip tape on one edge to joint a couple of boards and it seemed to work fine. I also used a 12" level with Temu double sticky tape (trying it out) with a small piece, and it too worked fine. Is that advisable?
Nice!
Colin do you sell shirts or stocking caps or hats with wood work web on them
Awesome 👌🆒️🙌
if the board is only 1 and 1/4 thick how would you join that?
Would it not be easier with a router table and fence
@@mrxmry3264 In essence, making your router table a small jointer.
My way is Just track saw then table saw. Easy and always work.
Why do we use jigs to hat reference the fence when we could just use the fence?
If the edges are wonky the wood will rock against the fence as you push it through. This will transfer to the cut edge and also risk kick back. You should only use a flat edge against the fence.
Does anybody know what kind of wood that was?
How do you like you work bench you built?
Can I ask why you didn’t just cut the last cut directly on the fence - why did you do it on the doubling fence jig ? Thank you
It looks like he did that to show another way to get a jointed edge.
I think you'll cut the reference board if you use fence directly.
After using the first jig to get the first straight edge. Why not just use the fence to get the second straight edge? I do filling get why we need the second jig in this video. Thanks!
Nevermind. I think I get it now. This was 3 separate ways to get a straight edge. Thanks Colin. The way you explain things is very intuitive and helpful.
What is the thickest board you can joint with a router?
Is it not possible to continue with ONLY a router to make this join?
I've done this long enough that I know I could figure out why, but I'm just too lazy. So why would you ever want to use that last jig, rather than using the straight board on the other side of the blade, just riding along the fence? No jig needed. Like I said, I'm sure there's probably a good reason, but I'm busy building a couple end tables, and don't have the time to ponder on it, or test it.
Is that “aluminum straight edge” a HIRSCH CUTTER’S EDGE guide???
I don't know.
A pattern bit
What is the difference in kerf size between the regular blade and the thin kerf blade?
regular kerf is 1/8th “ a thin kerf blade is 3/32nds"
You have to depend on your fence being absolutely 90% square, better to use a sliding sled that uses mitre guides instead!!
Unless your mitre guides are not really parallel to the blade... look at my Makita, eh
Just buy a jointer. You wont regret it.
Not fond of the third method. Seems over kill, just run it with the tapering jig and done. 🤷🏻♂️
Different methods are more appropriate for the size of the piece you are jointing. For instance, the L fence and router method would work well on a large panel that wouldn't fit on a tapering jig.
I've watched and loved many of your videos but lately the number of commercials is really too much. I know you need to earn a living off of this but there are so many it really kills the joy (for me). :(
The third example is ridicules. It is very unsafe. Why not use the fence as the straight edge and not use the jig at all.
I'm wondering this same thing. I'm sure there must be a reason that I'm not getting.
“Purchasing wood” Funny how people will use the word “purchase” whenever they are on TV or radio, video, etc. I guess it sounds more official or proper sounding but I guarantee you they won’t use the word “purchase” in every day life with friends, etc. I’m going to the lumber store to purchase some 2x4’s. No way, friends would laugh you silly. I’m going to BUY some 2x4’s That’s better. Do you purchase cheeseburgers too? Funny things people say.
He's Canadian. Maybe they use purchase in conversation up there, eh?
DID YOU KNOW THE WORD "DIABLO" IS A SPANISH WORD THAT TRANSLATES TO "DEVIL"?
Yeah, and?