Dangers of Surfing Pipeline- Shaun Tomson
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- www.TheSurfChan...
Shaun Tomson sits down to explain the risk and reward of surfing one of the world's most famous waves known as, Pipeline. Located on Oahu's North Shore, Pipeline serves as the proving grounds for most up and coming athletes.
___
The Surf Channel is an original, free, ad supported television network delivered on cable, satellite and IPTV services, web and wireless. The Video On Demand television network will be found on cable, satellite, telco and digital. Distribution partners include: Comcast, Cox Communications, DirecTV, Dish Network, Filmon.com.
For industry news around the clock and to find out about the upcoming television launch, check out:
www.TheSurfChan...
/ thesurfchannel
/ thesurfchannel
/ thesurfchannel
* Twitter/Instagram your best barrel face to win prizes every month to #TheSurfChannel #BarrelFace, and 'Like' us on Facebook to join history's first network dedicated to the great sport of surfing.
Producer/Director: Selma Al-Faqih
Editor: Justin Restaino
![โฮ่ง! (SUGOI) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nFp4zjAARFs/mqdefault.jpg)
I paddled out at Pipe when I was 15 too. Trying to keep with the group in 10 to 12' perfect conditions with about 50 other people in the water (1968)... got caught by a heft growler trying to get into the lineup and sucked backwards over the falls, hammered onto the coral reef for a lesson in humility. Paddled in and never went out there again! I'm still surfing but know my limitations.
A friend of mine from Florida went to Hawaii in the early 1970 to make part of his surf movie. He brought by some photos taken of a day they filmed - class 8'-10' Pipe and it looked like he got some great barrel - magazine material. I was duly impressed. but then my friend recounted how he went into the lineup when a macker came thru second reef - 10+ and he was right in the spot but he froze on the takeoff. After that he was labeled a "chicken" and got burned on smaller waves he could surf there. To surf Pipe you almost have to be suicidal.
I don't think fear mongering is intended but of coarse the pipe has a reputation.Like all things when you fall offf you need to get back on as soon as mentally possible to overcome your fears
***** yer good at being a dick grom
Most of us mortal men who have surfed or still do, have that one life threatening moment. Mine was Huntington Beach in '83 during the giant swell in March I believe. Caught in the impact zone on 20 foot giant walls of death isnt an experience I will ever forget. Surf Pipeline...nope...watch that from the beach!
2 and a half minutes of captivating, dark, ominous footage and commentary about pipeline. completely undone by a cheerful 5 second outro with Shaun looking like he has guzzled a litre of dirty bong water. ka pai.
'undone' ? Nah - cheerful outro is good. Cheer up !
311i0t this is fucking hilarious
311i0t 🤣🤣🤣lmao
Can’t stop laughing!
Believe this guy - he knows better that most. If you aren't 100% confident,100% fit, and maybe half crazy, don't even think about it.
then why is Jamie O'brein out there? well he is 100% confident, 65% fit and 100% crazy
Technique
Chris S : blah blah blah
JOB is way more fit than he may look...watch enough videos and some of the recoveries he makes would take great core strength
I would love to sit down, have a drink with Shawn and listen to him reminisce about that explorer era, when everything was new. Class act, class act.
if you've never been slammed by let alone a 6' wave on a sandy bottom, you can't imagine the power and repercussions of a wave like this. Hat off- I couldn't and wouldn't
Being shoved to the bottom and swished around like a rag doll is never fun
Jiandi P I've surfed it a handful of times. Can't wait to surf it again. I remember it being the only wave that when I ate it, and came up, I hadn't been pushed in to shore at all. Still right in the impact zone with the lip landing on me, and it has a weird way of making you face directly at the wave when you come up from a wipeout, all dizzy and seeing stars. Usually when I come up , I am facing the shore, I dunno why.
Lol I was literally just saying on a different video " I get scared at 6ft on a sandy bottom" it literally feels like a small car hits you
The first time I ever bought a surf magazine was in 1982, and had Shaun Tomson on the cover. I still have it. Fascinating individual and primo surfer, with a style like no other.
Shaun Tomson The Legend himself...
My hands sweat just thinking about the one and only time I went out on just a four-foot day. I got sucked over the falls backwards tying to paddle over a wave; a helpless feeling. I ended on the reef spread-eagle on my back. I couldn't move because of the downward pressure of the turbulent water. Fortunately I wasn't injured, because I wasn't bounced or dragged, just pinned. It could have been bad. I'll leave Pipe for the pros.
love how the video is really serious and has this scary feel to it, then in the end Shaun is smiling like his high as a kite. 2:24
Took a while to realise "Pappan" was the same wave as 'Pipeline'.
What are ya? A moron?
@@carlmarks8170 what are ya? A guy who’s gonna respond to a comment made six years ago trying to insult the guy?
ya mon..the beach vibrates when the big sets roll in..it takes massive balls to paddle out at Pipe period.Loved the footage of young Shawn rippin.
+Tee Larkin did you just say mon??? lel
Tee Larkin ii
"If you want the ultimate thrill, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price." Mark Foo
Shaun, you are always a legend. I know someone who casually tried pipe as a good local surfer, but had no knowledge there. He showed me the massive scars on the bottom of his forearms from a brush at pipe and that really showed me the danger. I went to pipe twice (and watched) but never surfed it as I was quite young and had no business out there. Even today ,I love surfing but I know Pipe is for the professional and purely committed who want it more than anything else. Seems still to crowded. Good but short video. I'm sure you have more knowledge to give regardless if most of us will never surf it. Still great to live through others' experiences. I think you would do well to make other videos that tell stories and share experiences on the edge. Discuss times with your world title year, MR, and I am sure a plethora of other interesting experiences. Entertaining for 9 to 5 folk who surf but sometimes only have time on the internet.
Seems to me that one of the best ways to show the dangers of pipeline is to show what it looks like underwater.
if you've ever watched north shore you would know what it looks like under the waves 😂
fnog9 Rocks, reef, n more rocks. Shore line in hawaii is not all sand like most people think.
Id like to know more about its mechanics and dangers! where the well done underwater documentary?
I can remember being in the lineup on a couple of occasions with Shaun in Durban, South Africa in the 70's, 80's.. we lived in the same town, he is a truly great guy in real life.
Thanks for the good vibes.
It always amazes me to read the comments after watching a video on Pipeline or Teahupoo for example. Several people will say, 'gosh I've got to go learn to surf and surf these spots'. Crazy talk. If you haven't been surfing at a very high level for a long time, don't surf there or anywhere near those conditions, (big waves, shallow bottom, fast moving waves).
Old school surfing legend....Multiple times Gunston 500 winner...watched him in a surf off against Rabbit,Mark,other big names in 1978 at Cave Rock,Bluff,South Africa......Got barreled on a monster wave,from deep inside and the spectators went nuts,thinking he was toast on the reef.Seconds later he popped out,made the entire section...a great master making long barrels.
I was having the ride of my life surfing 30 foot Pipeline, but then I woke up!
feelsbadman
Always got time to listen when Shaun speaks about surfing.
2:11 "that can be that last pounding you're ever gonna get" LMAOOOOO
Why do u only have 3 likes after 3 years ur famous wut
Shaun Thomson visited my high school
It was awesome
Opened this video and got a life insurance ad 🥴
2:09 'As its happening to you, you never know, that could be the last pounding your ever going to get' lol
Such a great spokesperson.. Surfing's great ambassador!!!
absolute legend! 1977 world champion...this guy is the business, watched him make history at kommetjie against Brad Gerlach from California in 1986, the oke was unbeatable, Ill never forget that day🤙🏻
Hey Shaun, used to see you at Montezuma in Durban, Ernie lived next to my aunt, 10B. Good video. Keep well.
Listen to Daddy Shaun!He really has been there and done it but with class and wisdom.Respect Shaun
Great vid,the legend tells it as it is .never been to Hawaii but love watching the old surf flicks such as free ride with Shaun and MR surfing big pipe and backdoor, loved there style !
When the wave breaks here. Don't be there or you're gonna get drilled.
Whats a duck dive
DS K it’s were you go under the wave with the board to save energy but with short boards I think I don’t surf but I rlly want to
I’m a Goose that was a quote in the movie north shore
Yeah? Yeah. No.
Nobody listens to Turtle.
Tomson, what a legend.
Thank you shauno, you make us durban O's proud 💪
i surfed pipe when i was 11 at 8' conditions right now im 14 and to this day I have no idea how i did it
Very cool Shaun. I enjoyed your book "Surfer's Code."
Shaun the Master in his Day!
is that Rob from Bats....?
Respect ...Shaun..from the time before leashes
True when that wave holds you under its pray time.i know this from my days when I surfed with laird Hamilton and the boys
sure you did
Thank you for sharing your life. Truly impressive lifestyle... Respectfully, Scott
dreaming of that place over fifty years!! to old now
Much respect 🙏
Eres el surfista mas bello y que admiro de mi adolescencia, recorte todas las fotos tuyas de las revistas de Surfing que llegaron a Venezuela
shaun tomson...dat guy could surf.. on his day, phenomenal...
Bless you Shaun.
Owwwwe mind blowing thank goodness for the people that film this amazing
Just turned 17 surfing 3rd reef Pipe..well I never really "surfed" until a couple years later but caught waves. Saw horrid wipeouts, took a few but the worst was seeing people die, kids washed off the beach Mark Martinson''s dog drown and nothing anyone could do. Guess I'm old now but watching Pipe( never surf it again too old and it's just too crowded anyway) is almost as mesmerizing as chopes
Shaun T, amazing guy
ST and MR on a strong right at the pipe. priceless.
First time I surfed Pipeline was a few months before I turned 13 and every year I get back to Pipeline I am grateful to be able to ride those perfect barrels
shaun thomson most class surfer ever
In Sydney it'll be twice overhead and in Hawaii they'll say it's 3ft.
Which is music from video clip ???
This happened to my friend Greg when he and his family went on vacation to Hawaii back in 72, it was serious, boy what bad luck, but he was ok, His little brother and sister even got to meet Don Ho, Somehow in the end it all worked out.
They make it look so easy!
surfed my whole life, been there twice, I won't attempt it.
Instinctive was the best description for it
Shaun Thompson is definitely one of the greatest surfers of all time.
*Thomson
@@carlmarks8170 Got it Merks. 😹
@@carlmarks8170 *Tomson
1:15 Shaun Tomson is a legend.....kinda. I've seen enough interviews and footage to make me wonder just what a "decent" bloke Mr. Tomson might have been back in the day. Regardless of whether he is a good bloke or not does anyone know the name of the hero in this clip that Shaun snaked and yet still made it through the barrel and staked a claim? Would love to know who he is. Super gracious dude to observe Mr. Tomson drop in on him and yet still navigate the barrel and claim the stoke.
Hey Alex, I was the guy in the back and the guy in front was super legend Mark Richards - we shared it.
God bless y’all!! The Lord is always by your side no matter what!!
I went Boogie Boarding at Princeville Kauai and a month later a Tiger Shark bit off a surfer's foot in the same break...
I love you Shaun
Sorry, I don't know anything about surfing. Can you please explain me how can you stick to the surf even in drops, is it only a matter of paraffin ? is it so sticky and waterproof. Thanks
iTube22100 Now there are pads for shortboards, but yeah, only paraffin. In contact with water it become really sticky, your skin kinda grip on it.
Olsak Thank you, it was quite incomprehensible for me :o)
Mitch Richardson What does it mean ?
+iTube22100 its waxed
+Haikelele sorta like grip tape on a skateboard
Probably the most challenging and dangerous waves in the world.
His Majesty Shaun T.
Icon of surf.
Caraca que vaca!
Super cool
LEGEND
Pipeline is definitely extreme danger and even the best local guys have had serious injuries surfing the wave..
awesome
Dropping in on head high swell for the first few dozen times was scary. Can't imagine triple head high with a break so fast. Straight down 20 feet either to your death or the ride of a lifetime. Paddle hard, jump up fast and start tuning that bitch or your in the rocks.
Those wipeouts at Pipeline were terrifying.
Great video
The cameraman never gets hurt.
Awsome
Which is a more devastating wave in a wipeout, Pipeline or Teahuppo??
Pipeline...no doubt...way more likely to get sent directly into the limestone reef at pipe. Your more likely to get cut at Teahupoo...and end up with a staff infection. As far as I know Teahupoo has yet to claim a life, while Pipeline has a quite a list of fatalities and serious injuries. Tahiti looks crazier because the wave is so thick and below sea level...Pipe is more dangerous because the wave is so unpredictable and the reef is like an uneven concrete slab.
An Elightented One
Thanks for getting back on this. Great explanation. Teahupoo is such a knarly looking wave, I'm surprised no one has died there! But the body count at Pipeline certainly tells the tale... tragic.
tiffsaver Actually a couple of guys died in Teahupoo since 2000. That's from what I heard and read, never surfed there though.
TheElementsOfLife didn't know that. guess it'll get more dangerous as it gets more and more crowded.
Yep, too many people that want to play with fire! Good thing is that it's pretty far from everywhere and it's quite expensive to get there! Still that nasty lip manages to scare the majority of people
The biggest danger is the crowds. A platform diver can jump from 10 meters and stop their plunge within five feet of water
Nice ..
Aloha! “From one dumb Howly greatful bitch!”
I Almost Drowned at MAKAHA BEACH! PIPELINE in 1973-
Due to my own ignorance of the power of the sea;
I almost drowned on Makaha pipeline beach
Where they hold surfing championships. I got caught in the sand rushing out pulling me under the first beach wave which pulled me in an undertow way out to sea.. to the Pipeline- As people just laughed!I surfaced a few times- fighting the power of the sea-each time getting the air knocked out of my lungs by huge waves as the
20 ft waves pushed me deep under and kept me under for a long time - so long - dragging me on the bottom as coral ripped my skin and bathing suit off and I’m a strong swimmer!!
I lost my breath as it kept me under beating me against the bottom for minutes. It took me under 3 times dragging me farther out to sea where the 20 foot pipeline waves were...I went under for the last time as a 20 foot wave knocked all the air from my lungs and I said “ I’m gonna die! As the monster wave took me under, I felt something yanking on my left foot and I remember thinking “This is great- I’m drowning and being eaten by a great white Shark at the same time!” As my oblivious date ignored my peril- unaware of my fight for life; suddenly I popped to the surface and a huge Hawaiian man with arms as big as both my thighs said
“You dumb Howly Bitch! What are you doing out here- you don’t know how to swim!” I clung to his massive arm thanking him, begging him “please don’t leave me-I’m so frightened”. He asked me where my date was and I told him I didn’t know- somewhere bodysurfing! The waves on the shore were breaking over 6feet High. He took me almost to the shore and then told me-“I can’t take you all the way in- my weight will crush you !- so when you feel your body hit the sand, you get up and scramble, crawl as fast as you can to get out of the water and don’t stop until you are on dry sand!”
It took what little energy I had left and as I collapsed in the hot dry sand- I only had my bikini top left and was too tired to give a shit while tourists laughed at me pulling sand over my lower body- my exposed area. I couldn’t walk for atleast an hour. I never got his name or got to thank him in a proper way and I’ve always been sad about that; because he came out there and saved my miserable life! I always include him in my prayers- signed “one greatful Dumb Howly Bitch! 😌🙏🏻☦️
That wonderful huge Hawaiian God of a hero MAN had saved my life. Sometime later my date (first and last date) showed up and asked me if I-was ok? I told him NO!
Please take he back to my hotel! I noticed his face was bloody- I asked him if he had an accident? He said: “ Yeah! That 6’8” 300 pound Hawaiian came and pulled him out of the water and kicked his Ass! Saying I had almost drowned’
I refused the McDonalds Hamburger he wanted to buy me! And never saw him again as they shipped him back to Vietnam- for another tour- hoping he survived 🇺🇸🙏🏻
To this day I still pray for My anonymous hero somewhere on North Beach on the island of Awahoo, Hawaii.
I never got his name but he’s still in my heart.❤️🙏🏻☦️
“Stay out of the Ocean on North Beach - unless you are with a Native or are a Navy Seal! 🌊🌊🌊🌊🌊
Lol 😂
Much love. ❤️🙏🏻🌊☦️
I wonder if he has been to oZ? mind my ignorance, no offence but pipeline just doesnt seem that bad. Im only basing this off of what people say, the points that are listed as bad are just the norm here. Like he says "coral right beneath you". My local Oz break literally sucks dry on one half of the wave, ie no water beneath you in the wrong sections. You may argue that "Yeh but there's more population at pipeline", yeh that may be true but I'd rather a population of people than sharks (two of my friends have been bitten, both fortunate enough not to die). Im not sure why all breaks have to be a competition but seem as it is, Ill put my 2 cents in. Just saying. (excuse the bad English, over worked).
素敵中景色よかったです❤️
I went down the slide at the pool one time...
got hurt pretty bad though.
is that a dolphin or what? shows it on the big wipe out & in description pic
Pipeline looks like a challenging wave.
Great place for beginners when it is firing. 💯😜
Pipeline is a matter of luck! Just like riding motorcycles!!! You can die any time!
No matter how many times you can make it out of the water without scratches or getting an amazing barrel. You will have the bad days and truly can loose it all in a second. Chances a much higher than other places.
Every time I tried to go Pipe with my Hawaiian friends they pulled me back offering me other better spots.
It's not only the power of the wave and the reef itself, but the crowd too. You will stay watching everyone and get one wave per every 3 hours sitting, "paying your dues". It takes much longer at Pipe.
In the long run it is worthy, but only for those who are willing to get some broken bones and stitches and risk their lives. It's a huge hype that is fed by contest, pictures and movies. The more you go the greater the risk. The more time passes, worse the crowd. The older you get the worse is the experience. Helmet will help you just like riding motorcycles. Good luck.
your wave your rule bro. no excuse😎🙏
nice
Er muita onda mano
I learned to surf at Pipeline by myself. I didn't realize it was so dangerous! I wish I had watched this video first. One thing's for sure: if I ever go back, it will be during the day next time.
sure you did bud
I used to surf there all the time when I was younger. One day I was in the parking lot when a couple of tourists came up and asked me; Excuse me, where is Pip'o'lini? I look at my friend and I'm thinking we aren't in Italy! LoL!
It took me a few to figure out it was Pipeline the wanted! LoL!
East coast inner city guy here who knows jack shit on waves. Surfers are absolutely NUTZ...that has to be the most insane, scary and most dangerous sport IMO. Big props to all you who do it cause if I see a wave I am running like hell.
Shaun fucking Thompson!! legend
awesome and good eyes at the end xD good shit u hit
I like the surfers from the 70s and 80s . theyre style was so cool , not so much of these hot dog kids with attitudes now days. my first surf board was a mark richards twin fin , freakin awsome board.
I think about.
Shaun Thompson looking old now. I think he must be in his 60s. He was world champion in 1977 I think it was. Correct me if I am wrong.
+Jackie Ramage Its called aging...everyone does it.
marcuelcajon you don't say...
+Jackie Ramage Yes you're right.In fact that pipemasters was on ABCs wide world of sports,with Fred Hemmings as the commentator.BTW Shaun beat Gerry Lopez and Rory Russell.
gnarly
well guy surfers or wanna bees. If it is too much to handle you can always surf your eyes for the lovelies that stroll by from time to time. Thank you lovelies. Yesterday's Maui contest was a great watch as time allowed. Beat football. (I wonder what the ladies do if they are not out surfing?)
I could take anything piha could dish out back when guards were few I was hit by a silver shark and it took me a hour to be able to walk to my car my board saved me from certain trauma my forehead was grazed my wetsuit was cut from chest to hip it was that close respect nature ,nature of rips tides and the sharks in them
Dang!
Than there is Bethany Hamilton that shreds pipe more than many of the pro guys ever do - and does this with one arm!
Even in the best of conditions its dangerous enough. I nearly drown trying to surf all the time.