i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Enzo Alijah thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
What a lot of people seem to forget is ISO simply amplifies the sensor voltage, it doesn't increase or decrease the number of electrons in the well of each photosite, therefore it doesn't change the sensor's exposure to light, simply interprets the already captured signal to a different strength.
Hey Justin, Thank you. Super helpful. Like you, I have a shot on RED many times in the past and embarrassed to admit that I really had no idea how to properly expose. I just purchased a new Red Komodo-X, thus now deep-diving into the process. Cheers!
This is a great breakdown. I used to shoot - move into post recently, but I'm back to shooting so I'm playing catch up with camera tech since film school. Since I ordered the Komodo I've been watching YT videos on it up and down, and they don't compare. What a thorough and articulate breakdown of RED exposure dos and don'ts. Bravo.
This is without a doubt one of the best videos on Komodo that I've come across -- maybe even *the* best. I'm new to Red system and the Info you shared here is super helpful. Thank you!!
Great video. I love this little camera. I like to think of ISO as a digital gain of the signal after the light has hit the sensor on any camera. So the more you pump up the ISO, the more digital noise you introduce into your image. The difference with RAW is that ISO data isn't baked into the footage you import to your editing program. Coming from a music background, I often compare to sound - whenever you boost the volume of your recorded audio digitally in post-production, you introduce noise as well.
Very very similar We even use the same term Signal to noise ratio The noise is always there, it's just the more you push important data into the lower shadows and then lift them the more you boost the noise
@@JustinPhillip hey man, on the Komodo with a speedbooster such as the canon version, does it let you open up your lens by an extra stop? Say f2.8 turns to f2? On my gh7 and speedbooster I can open up my lenses by one more stop so that’s where I’m coming from with that question. Is it an automatic thing with more light coming in or do you get control to open it up more? Seems like I can’t find a clear answer online. Thanks !
Great video! However, a more accurate explanation is that there is a native ISO of 800, and the 'ISO' settings on the camera function as Exposure Indexes. Once you understand the Push and Pull process in film technology, you'll realize that these ISO numbers represent exactly that-pushing or pulling the exposure while your camera operates on a single fixed stock rated at 800.
This is the best hands-on video about the Komodo. Now i know there are some things I don't want to deal with on the Komodo just to get that sweet Redraw codec. What I get from this video is that you need a crew to use this camera optimally as opposed to other cameras that are not as sensitive.
Cheers mate! Exactly what I needed to know. I have been using a red one for a week and I could not make sense of its light metering logic. Apart from the traffic light being only one and off/on, the rest pretty much applies to the red one too. Thanks again and all the best.
Really want to thank you for this content it has allowed me to prepare and inform myself prior to receiving my first Red camera. I cannot contain my excitement! I was at NAB when the styrofoamred camera was on display for the very first introduction and we watched Peters war filming sample in the tent of the first production ever shot on red. Polar Bear Productions thanks you as I return to filming after taking a long break waiting for this Red opportunity. Great job Justin.
Very cool! I haven't been interested in RED (the price range previous to the Komodo was certainly a big reason) but this is really interesting both for RED and every other camera. Underneath the hood, a sensor is a sensor. Each element of a sensor gets hit by photons and that causes electrons to get knocked off, creating a voltage for that sensor element, which is then read. At the low end of how that sensor works, when there are very few pixels, the resulting voltage is very low and random (noise.) In the middle, there is a roughly linear relationship between photons hitting it and the voltage that builds up. At the high end, the sensor's voltage maxes out and stops being linear, thus the pixel is clipped high. That basic physics operates for every sensor in every brand. It's really cool that RED is more directly showing the user what is happening on the sensor elements - too low voltage (dark/noise) or too high (light/clipped) instead of only running it through some pre-processing - what you're mentioning about showing the operator IRE info. Even though Blackmagic handles "raw" differently, the physics applies at the sensor level, so I'm going to look at the BMPCC exposure vs. dynamic range chart again and see if it makes more sense to me from the "RED-esque" point of view with their traffic lights and goal posts.
Thanks for this structured and step-by step explanation of how to expose with a Komodo! I'm looking to buy one myself next year, and this guide is very helpful in so many ways! Keep up the good work :D
From my point of view, all cameras capable of shooting raw work the same way. Perhaps there is something more to take care with on red cameras that I don’t know, but ISO value is always metadata applied to the raw signal, as well as white balance. In blackmagic cameras, the only thing to take into account regarding ISO is the number of stops of highlights and shadows you have later to work with, just because if you shot at a very low iso, you have to give it physically more light, hence you’re destroying the highlights and cleaning the shadows, and if you set a quite high iso value, you’re filling your shadows with noise, whereas your highlights are protected because the iso boost makes you close the iris or crank up the shutter speed to let less light get into the sensor. What that means is that iso, more than affecting deeply, is conditioning your real exposure. What’s more, if you shot with the native iso of a camera (to my understanding, the one that preserves the highest number of stops above and below middle grey), you’re getting the most out of the sensor and boosting exposure in post would be the same as rising or lowering the iso value. Only the extreme situations would make one set the lowest iso value (when there isn’t a huge dynamic range in the image), or the highest (when protecting the highlights is paramount)
Kinda true..but a HUGE difference is that other camera manufactures that have 'RAW' images actually still have a native iso but boost a signal from say 400 ISO to 640. Is the 640 data from the actual sensor? No, its a combination of the 400 ISO plus a boosted electronic amplification to come up with 640. So the 'RAW' image from other cameras is pure data, yes...but it is a hybrid mix of a native signal plus internal electronic 'boosting' to achieve their version of a 'pure' signal. This video really helped explain that th-cam.com/video/QfLkWyhGh7A/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=REDDigitalCinema
Wow. Great video. So when the RGB traffic lights light up it’s essentially a warning? But it doesn’t start to negatively affect my image until the goal post becomes filled? Am I understanding that correctly? And how much does a goalpost need to become filled before I need to make an aperture change based off your experience? 25% filled?
traffic lights mean 2% of all pixels in that channel are gone. On the “over” side, i never let any of the goal posts fill up. On the under side, its kind of up to taste, but anywhere up to half full is generally fine for underexposed
@@JustinPhillip thank you! That is very helpful. When you say you never let the “over” side fill up, are you talking about at any level or just never let it fill up all the way?
@@colehughes RED recommends never letting anything fill in on the goal posts for the over side. Bad enough if the traffic lights turn on. Over exposure is really hard to recover from, even in RAW
This was beautiful. I understand that you had to explain it a couple of times. But you made it very clear und easy from the first one. Thank you. I don't shoot with Red but I love to learn about everything and have a broad understanding of multiple aspects of the industry
Mahalo! I ordered mine. Been so hungry for more info. Been doing the trainings too! I just can't wait. Glad you are doing more doc with this. It's what I do and now want to take to next level. =) Appreciate this!
It’s crazy, I see so many positive comments, and like nobody talking about the fact that he says there are only 3 ways to fix this, but then only mentions 1 way. Of course most of us know how, still.
Justin, I must commend you on this nicely made video on exposing the Komodo using some of the tools built within the system. But there is a correction, the Komodo DOES have a native ISO. The issue that many run into is that they use ISO as a tool in adjusting the exposure of the image. But like you mentioned, the exposure adjustments should be made with the shutter, aperture or adjusting the intensity of light(light fixture) coming through the lens and hitting the sensor. The ISO is NOT a "gain" function of exposure on a RED. When you use the exposure tool and you see that there is no change to the image when adjusting the ISO that is one of the examples that the sensor has a native ISO. The sensor is not increasing or decreasing in sensitivity when making that adjustment with the ISO.
You are really putting gold out here, real insights on red raw. I like your devotion and rigour to the craft, a lot fast food knowledge on the web, wonder if we can fin this red book for sale?
ARRI is the same. You raise or lower the ISO it changes the highlight/shadow dynamic range distribution. I just think of raising or lowering the ISO as over or under exposing. Raise the ISO gives you more highlight room but raises the noise floor. Lowering does the opposite. This is somewhat confusing to DSLR users who usually think of in dark situations you raise the ISO, when you really should do the opposite.
What’s ISO advice can you give for shooting on Red or Arri cam. When you shoot in low key style (when you want take maximum from shadows but without noise)
@@Lululu239 Honestly 200 ISO will give you cleanest shadows. I did that for a music video once that was very silhouette. ARRI noise pattern is pleasant though so I don't mind shooting a little higher and getting some noise. Same with the komodo. But for really really clean shadows 200 iso.
Dude! I have been looking for someone to explain this info. Why does red always have to be different than the norm. Thank you. You may have just saved my show.
Thanks for ur video:) I use sony fx3 but it looks interesting and I think "ISO" in red camera just means "EI" in other camera like It has only one iso internally and u just adjust brighness of well exposed images(which was not over or under expose as much as they lose their detail)
Good explanation.. This is basically similar to Sony’s fs7/fx9 cine-EI mode.. where there’s exposure index (iso) only applies to the lut right but not the SLog3 image right? Not sure if you used or own a Sony camera.. but it reminds me of that. A lot of ppl I work with just doesn’t understand why the iso (EI) not working when on Cine-EI mode..
This is how every "real" cinema camera work. Arri's also work in EI. and as you say the Sony cinema line, including the Venice. In my mind this is one of the determining factors of a cinema camera. Even though blackmagics a great for the price point, it's a whole different workflow to the pro cameras
This can be pretty confusing for a lot of people, but in all seriousness, if you have ever shot raw in any camera youd know how to expose properly. The only real way to reach proper exposure is to give the camera the light it needs. Everybody should learn how to use false color., its such a powerful tool. Exposing to the right is actually a good thing most of the time, just know that in all cameras(except for dual native iso cams) "iso" is just digital gain, and even in dual native cams, its just gain until you hit the second circuit.
My Gear List: kit.co/jpOnFilm
This is the best Red Exposure video I have ever watched! That includes tutorials from Red Digital Cinema's own TH-cam channel. Thank you so very much!
Wow thank you! I know all my terms probably arent accurate, (Photons for example), but i think the overall message is there 😆
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Hudson Khalid instablaster ;)
@Enzo Alijah thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Enzo Alijah it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
What a lot of people seem to forget is ISO simply amplifies the sensor voltage, it doesn't increase or decrease the number of electrons in the well of each photosite, therefore it doesn't change the sensor's exposure to light, simply interprets the already captured signal to a different strength.
Hey Justin, Thank you. Super helpful. Like you, I have a shot on RED many times in the past and embarrassed to admit that I really had no idea how to properly expose. I just purchased a new Red Komodo-X, thus now deep-diving into the process. Cheers!
Congrats!
I’m really glad you explained this and I don’t even own a red.
Did u want it?, cuz i want it bad :)
Very very informative
This is one of the most helpful videos I've ever seen on TH-cam. Thanks for explaining it so well.
This is a great breakdown. I used to shoot - move into post recently, but I'm back to shooting so I'm playing catch up with camera tech since film school. Since I ordered the Komodo I've been watching YT videos on it up and down, and they don't compare. What a thorough and articulate breakdown of RED exposure dos and don'ts. Bravo.
Thanks! You're gonna love the Komodo!
This is without a doubt one of the best videos on Komodo that I've come across -- maybe even *the* best. I'm new to Red system and the Info you shared here is super helpful. Thank you!!
Well done bro! I never understand the people that dislikes informative videos like this. Keep it up!
Very interesting and useful to know these technical aspects, even without using a Red camera. Thank you!
Great video. I love this little camera. I like to think of ISO as a digital gain of the signal after the light has hit the sensor on any camera. So the more you pump up the ISO, the more digital noise you introduce into your image. The difference with RAW is that ISO data isn't baked into the footage you import to your editing program.
Coming from a music background, I often compare to sound - whenever you boost the volume of your recorded audio digitally in post-production, you introduce noise as well.
Very very similar
We even use the same term Signal to noise ratio
The noise is always there, it's just the more you push important data into the lower shadows and then lift them the more you boost the noise
This explains sooo much regarding my under exposed footage. I know I turned the iso up on the shoot. This is so helpful. Thanks 🙏🏿🙏🏿
Nice information in this video. Quick and to the point! Thank you so much for clearly explaining r3d exposure to me
I hope you understand how incredibly helpful this video is. I had no idea about any of this! Thank you thank you thank you
Thanks Justin - First video I found that explains this so well :)
you are a better version of jarold undone, less nerdy , informative and practical
Learned so much from this! Thanks for setting us all up for success
You bet! 🙌🏼
Thank you for taking the time to make this for us.
Dude thanks so much for this! I sold my s1h and I’m looking to getting a Komodo OG. This is so helpful!
perfect time to buy!
@@JustinPhillip agree!!
@@JustinPhillip hey man, on the Komodo with a speedbooster such as the canon version, does it let you open up your lens by an extra stop? Say f2.8 turns to f2? On my gh7 and speedbooster I can open up my lenses by one more stop so that’s where I’m coming from with that question. Is it an automatic thing with more light coming in or do you get control to open it up more? Seems like I can’t find a clear answer online. Thanks !
Hands down the best video I’ve seen about red Komodo.
Thanks for the help!
The Red workflow is something else. I bet your having a blast.
Ohhhhh yeah, buddy!
Wowwwww I needed this video thank you 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Bloody sensational video, mate. I'm shooting with it for the first time tomorrow. Cheers!
Great video! However, a more accurate explanation is that there is a native ISO of 800, and the 'ISO' settings on the camera function as Exposure Indexes. Once you understand the Push and Pull process in film technology, you'll realize that these ISO numbers represent exactly that-pushing or pulling the exposure while your camera operates on a single fixed stock rated at 800.
This is the best hands-on video about the Komodo. Now i know there are some things I don't want to deal with on the Komodo just to get that sweet Redraw codec. What I get from this video is that you need a crew to use this camera optimally as opposed to other cameras that are not as sensitive.
This was so helpful! Thank you so much for making this video
Cheers mate! Exactly what I needed to know. I have been using a red one for a week and I could not make sense of its light metering logic. Apart from the traffic light being only one and off/on, the rest pretty much applies to the red one too. Thanks again and all the best.
This was definitely worth the watch
Really want to thank you for this content it has allowed me to prepare and inform myself prior to receiving my first Red camera. I cannot contain my excitement! I was at NAB when the styrofoamred camera was on display for the very first introduction and we watched Peters war filming sample in the tent of the first production ever shot on red. Polar Bear Productions thanks you as I return to filming after taking a long break waiting for this Red opportunity. Great job Justin.
Great job and demo on an often overlooked topic! Thanks!
dope video bro!!!! it's the best out here
Very cool! I haven't been interested in RED (the price range previous to the Komodo was certainly a big reason) but this is really interesting both for RED and every other camera. Underneath the hood, a sensor is a sensor. Each element of a sensor gets hit by photons and that causes electrons to get knocked off, creating a voltage for that sensor element, which is then read. At the low end of how that sensor works, when there are very few pixels, the resulting voltage is very low and random (noise.) In the middle, there is a roughly linear relationship between photons hitting it and the voltage that builds up. At the high end, the sensor's voltage maxes out and stops being linear, thus the pixel is clipped high. That basic physics operates for every sensor in every brand. It's really cool that RED is more directly showing the user what is happening on the sensor elements - too low voltage (dark/noise) or too high (light/clipped) instead of only running it through some pre-processing - what you're mentioning about showing the operator IRE info. Even though Blackmagic handles "raw" differently, the physics applies at the sensor level, so I'm going to look at the BMPCC exposure vs. dynamic range chart again and see if it makes more sense to me from the "RED-esque" point of view with their traffic lights and goal posts.
Thanks so much Justin. Very helpful video.
Excellent information, you rock!!!
it like finally clicked for me the way RED exposure works, THANK YOU!
Great!
Justin is awesome! Technical in detail and functional in the fact he actually works works lol
So very helpful - thank you!
Thanks for this structured and step-by step explanation of how to expose with a Komodo!
I'm looking to buy one myself next year, and this guide is very helpful in so many ways! Keep up the good work :D
Thank you for making this! Just got my Komodo and these tips were much needed
From my point of view, all cameras capable of shooting raw work the same way. Perhaps there is something more to take care with on red cameras that I don’t know, but ISO value is always metadata applied to the raw signal, as well as white balance. In blackmagic cameras, the only thing to take into account regarding ISO is the number of stops of highlights and shadows you have later to work with, just because if you shot at a very low iso, you have to give it physically more light, hence you’re destroying the highlights and cleaning the shadows, and if you set a quite high iso value, you’re filling your shadows with noise, whereas your highlights are protected because the iso boost makes you close the iris or crank up the shutter speed to let less light get into the sensor. What that means is that iso, more than affecting deeply, is conditioning your real exposure. What’s more, if you shot with the native iso of a camera (to my understanding, the one that preserves the highest number of stops above and below middle grey), you’re getting the most out of the sensor and boosting exposure in post would be the same as rising or lowering the iso value. Only the extreme situations would make one set the lowest iso value (when there isn’t a huge dynamic range in the image), or the highest (when protecting the highlights is paramount)
Kinda true..but a HUGE difference is that other camera manufactures that have 'RAW' images actually still have a native iso but boost a signal from say 400 ISO to 640. Is the 640 data from the actual sensor? No, its a combination of the 400 ISO plus a boosted electronic amplification to come up with 640. So the 'RAW' image from other cameras is pure data, yes...but it is a hybrid mix of a native signal plus internal electronic 'boosting' to achieve their version of a 'pure' signal. This video really helped explain that th-cam.com/video/QfLkWyhGh7A/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=REDDigitalCinema
Awesome video!!! Thank you for this explaination of exposure!!
Wow. Great video. So when the RGB traffic lights light up it’s essentially a warning? But it doesn’t start to negatively affect my image until the goal post becomes filled? Am I understanding that correctly? And how much does a goalpost need to become filled before I need to make an aperture change based off your experience? 25% filled?
traffic lights mean 2% of all pixels in that channel are gone. On the “over” side, i never let any of the goal posts fill up. On the under side, its kind of up to taste, but anywhere up to half full is generally fine for underexposed
@@JustinPhillip thank you! That is very helpful. When you say you never let the “over” side fill up, are you talking about at any level or just never let it fill up all the way?
@@colehughes RED recommends never letting anything fill in on the goal posts for the over side. Bad enough if the traffic lights turn on. Over exposure is really hard to recover from, even in RAW
This was beautiful. I understand that you had to explain it a couple of times. But you made it very clear und easy from the first one. Thank you.
I don't shoot with Red but I love to learn about everything and have a broad understanding of multiple aspects of the industry
I LOVE technical explanations like this. My Red Komodos come in today. You’re teaching me a ton.
Update: Just got my Komodos. Omg… they’re incredible. I’m used to ZCam and Blackmagic but this is different.
@@JonRatzlaff im from the future and mine comes today :)))))))
Perfectly explained! Thanks.
Thanks a lot for your explanations and tips!!
Thank you dude! Explains a lot of questions that I had.
Awesome video man! Great job
This video probably saved me a trip to rehab... thanks for what you’re doing for the community, especially the newbies...
thank you!
This video is really good for understanding how to expose on the Red Komodo. Thank you sir.
one of the best lessons i have seen online!
dude this was SO good and so helpful. 🙌
Thanks for this video dude, very informative. Just bought my first red.
Nice!
Well explained. Thank you!
Mahalo! I ordered mine. Been so hungry for more info. Been doing the trainings too! I just can't wait. Glad you are doing more doc with this. It's what I do and now want to take to next level. =) Appreciate this!
This video is Excellent !!! Thank you so much for this information!!
Very useful guide. Thank you!
I appreciate this so much.
This was a great explanation thank you
Great explanation. Thank you Justin!
Thank you for this, great video!
Very good and interesting video. I wish you did a similar tutorial about exposure for blackmagic pocket cinema cameras.
oh but i have th-cam.com/video/zjLD_r4opQg/w-d-xo.html
It’s crazy, I see so many positive comments, and like nobody talking about the fact that he says there are only 3 ways to fix this, but then only mentions 1 way. Of course most of us know how, still.
he mentioned (1)aperture, (2)shutter angle and (3)the light on set.
Amazing video ! its very illuminating! Thank u Justin, Keep ip up :D
No problem! Thanks!
best fast and easy exposure video for red cinema everseen!!!
thank you
awesome!
Best explanation ever…. So many Komodo users don’t get this at all🤦🏻♂️
.. coming from black magic pocket .. I did not know it. And I own a Komodo-c for a couple weeks 😂
Dude you're the man! You really broke it down! Salute!!!
Appreciate it!
that was awesome and I don't even shoot red but I edit red footage everyday so it helps me understand the raw file.
awesome!
Thank you a lot ❤
man how i wished i knew this ten days ago, very useful, thanks
Some really useful info here. Nice work!
Justin, I must commend you on this nicely made video on exposing the Komodo using some of the tools built within the system. But there is a correction, the Komodo DOES have a native ISO. The issue that many run into is that they use ISO as a tool in adjusting the exposure of the image. But like you mentioned, the exposure adjustments should be made with the shutter, aperture or adjusting the intensity of light(light fixture) coming through the lens and hitting the sensor. The ISO is NOT a "gain" function of exposure on a RED. When you use the exposure tool and you see that there is no change to the image when adjusting the ISO that is one of the examples that the sensor has a native ISO. The sensor is not increasing or decreasing in sensitivity when making that adjustment with the ISO.
bingo
But that is exactly what he said hahaha
Dope!!! Second time watching this.
You are really putting gold out here, real insights on red raw. I like your devotion and rigour to the craft, a lot fast food knowledge on the web, wonder if we can fin this red book for sale?
Thank you for this video, I really! Really! needed it, hope I will be half confident to use the Red Camera like my Lumix S1H
Really great tutorial! Thank you very much!
you explained it so well, i got it
Love it! Great vid
Thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome video. Helped a lot
Dang , that was very helpful! Thank
You buddy!
You bet!
This is the most confusing stuff ever but thank you for explaining it and going through the topic
Thanx a lot! Very educational video.
That was such an amazing video! So helpful! Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge
Great! Thank you!
ARRI is the same. You raise or lower the ISO it changes the highlight/shadow dynamic range distribution. I just think of raising or lowering the ISO as over or under exposing. Raise the ISO gives you more highlight room but raises the noise floor. Lowering does the opposite. This is somewhat confusing to DSLR users who usually think of in dark situations you raise the ISO, when you really should do the opposite.
What’s ISO advice can you give for shooting on Red or Arri cam. When you shoot in low key style (when you want take maximum from shadows but without noise)
@@Lululu239 Honestly 200 ISO will give you cleanest shadows. I did that for a music video once that was very silhouette. ARRI noise pattern is pleasant though so I don't mind shooting a little higher and getting some noise. Same with the komodo. But for really really clean shadows 200 iso.
Dude! I have been looking for someone to explain this info. Why does red always have to be different than the norm. Thank you. You may have just saved my show.
Thanks for ur video:) I use sony fx3 but it looks interesting and I think "ISO" in red camera just means "EI" in other camera like It has only one iso internally and u just adjust brighness of well exposed images(which was not over or under expose as much as they lose their detail)
Good Video -- Key takeaway, if you want to use the Red System, or any cinema system, learn how to use a light meter and read light and work with light
Very technical, but very informative, nice!
Great video, helped a lot thank you!
So helpful!
The best vídeo ever for exposing with Red Komodo!
Thanks!
Thanks for this video.
Great insight @Justin thanks for sharing
You bet!
This was very helpful.
Good explanation.. This is basically similar to Sony’s fs7/fx9 cine-EI mode.. where there’s exposure index (iso) only applies to the lut right but not the SLog3 image right? Not sure if you used or own a Sony camera.. but it reminds me of that. A lot of ppl I work with just doesn’t understand why the iso (EI) not working when on Cine-EI mode..
This is how every "real" cinema camera work. Arri's also work in EI. and as you say the Sony cinema line, including the Venice. In my mind this is one of the determining factors of a cinema camera. Even though blackmagics a great for the price point, it's a whole different workflow to the pro cameras
This can be pretty confusing for a lot of people, but in all seriousness, if you have ever shot raw in any camera youd know how to expose properly. The only real way to reach proper exposure is to give the camera the light it needs. Everybody should learn how to use false color., its such a powerful tool. Exposing to the right is actually a good thing most of the time, just know that in all cameras(except for dual native iso cams) "iso" is just digital gain, and even in dual native cams, its just gain until you hit the second circuit.
Thank you. This helped alot
Great job, very helpful.
Thanks!
Thanks so much man!