What a superb closeup video, so helpful. Thanks Shane. My 990's quandrant lever is buckling and not moving easily..so it's strip it down time, and probably new washer tome time!
My brother 3d printed the block in nylon from you drawings. Had the 996 wing and wheel back on so I could move it for new machine coming tomorrow. I am going to change a few things round, fitting new block and i forgot one spacer on the quadrant. Put a bolt and nylock nut in hand brake, as i new it would be coming off again.Hand brake works fine now. If the hydraulics don't work after that. Spool valve and 2 way ram will be fitted I think. I had my fork lift on it today and had to keep changing levers round to get it to work. It sort of worked. Diff lock working also.M😀
Awesome! Do you think the nylon block will work and handle the pushrods? I guess it's really only a guide block, so maybe? Anyway, it should be good enough to see if working I guess. I'd love to see a pic of it. Your adventures are the reason I thought of modeling it up in the first place! Phenomenal idea on using a bolt and nyloc nut on the parking brake!!!!! I'm most definitely going to do this. I hate that little roll pin! Great idea.
@@path.of.discovery I drilled the hole in the hand bake lever slightly larger also. The small bolt on the quadrant guide/lock fits. I put a vid on Instagram in the next few days showing the block. M 😀
@@path.of.discovery Hi Shane, for me it's now over. Next year, I will take care of loader cylinders (leaks). Then, it will be the loader itself (fixing and painting) and trying to find a way to install a power steering cylinder on to help managing the weight of the loader in front. It finally was a good experience at the end even if it's more of a pain in the ass process.
You make it look so easy. Well done. A standard torque figure for those bolts should do fine. It's just fastening, nothing getting squashed or deformed, so no reason for less or more here, at least in my opinion 🙂🚜🔧 Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰
Lol, thanks Jon! I can't help it really! The folks at work say the same thing. Of course part of my actual job IS teaching/coaching (lean/agile software dev principles & practices). Just the way I'm wired I guess... Thanks as always for watching and commenting Jon!
For path of discovery. Well that explains it shows in all of your videos I had a feeling you must tutor or have done in the past excellent 👍 👌 it's what makes you unique keep up the good work 👏
Hi Shane. I think I read a post from Ollek that said the chamfers on the distance piece go towards the pin so yours looks correct. I can’t understand why it makes a difference though. I’ve been looking back at photos of mine and I’m not sure that both distance pieces have the chamfer. It works, so I’m not going to take it to bits again. One thing though - there’s no washer shown in the parts manual behind the nyloc, at least not in the later 880 manual. Not sure why you would need it with a nyloc, but won’t do any harm as there’s plenty of thread on the connecting rod.
Ok thanks for the chamfer info, same though, I don't see why it'd make a difference. You're absolutely right about that washer. Checked the parts diagram and it's not there. Just my luck too that I finished doing the adjustments today and buttoned it all up and just now checking comments on today's video! Checked my disassembly video and yep, there's a washer there... 🤷♂ I guess maybe I put it on when I went through all this a year or so ago maybe? I was missing a washer for the screws that hold the Quadrant front plate on... May have gotten mixed in with the connecting link parts bag on the first go-round on this and put there by mistake... who knows! Like you said though, it won't hurt anything and I'm NOT about to take it all apart again now that I've got it all adjusted correctly! Guess it'll be right there till I do this again (hopefully never). Thanks David!
v important to check the tensionnon the quadrant lever nut regular - if loose the lever can fly back to raise the arms - a nieghbour got killed trapped between the arm and mudguard - lever sprang back!
Hi Nick, great advice! Mine was getting quite loose before I took it all to pieces. I've got it all adjusted now (video coming soon-ish) and the control arm is much stiffer than it was but still free enough for good movement. I'm quite happy with it, but may tighten up a bit more once there's some weight on the arms and I can see how it feels. Thanks a bunch for watching and commenting!
When l had to replace this, there was no hole in that connecting link, so l tied some twine around the spring and threaded it through the back and has someone pull, worked but another thing that was tricky, and l think you’ve got them spacers in the right position, I had to set that rod up so the arms would lift high enough when you pull the quadrant all the way back so the lift lock would engage
Hi Glenn, no hole there would be an absolute nightmare! I can definitely see how that'd be tricky to do. About the arms lifting and the latch, you reminded me I just learned something from the forum about that. Apparently the arms won't go high enough to engage the latch until the control arm is fully back against the spring (in select position). Ollek says it's normal that the lever must be in constant pumping (fully back) in order to get the lift latch engaged. Didn't know until I read that. Anyway, thanks a bunch for watching and commenting! dbtc.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17723
Thanks Barry! It was pretty easy. Getting that spring and distance piece on is the hard part and once I remembered to use a wrench like I did, it was just bolting it on!
I have a david brown 995 and the 3 point works in the wrong direction up on the control is down and down is up. It goes up quickly and down very slow. Not sure whats wrong and was wondering if you had any ideas. Just bought the tractor and dont know any history
Hi and thanks for the comment! It could be the tractor is in traction control mode (TCU)? The quadrant handle is different when in that mode. Not sure though. Be sure to get an operators manual and service manual. I've got a video that I'll link below to the right spot where I talk about where to find manuals online: th-cam.com/video/5nYhhXXpGFw/w-d-xo.html
While I'm flattered that you think my videos are worthy to sell, I don't think I'm going to be putting them out on CD or DVD. I've saved everything I've made, and if youtube ever goes away or something happens, I may do something then. Thanks!
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What a superb closeup video, so helpful. Thanks Shane. My 990's quandrant lever is buckling and not moving easily..so it's strip it down time, and probably new washer tome time!
My brother 3d printed the block in nylon from you drawings. Had the 996 wing and wheel back on so I could move it for new machine coming tomorrow. I am going to change a few things round, fitting new block and i forgot one spacer on the quadrant. Put a bolt and nylock nut in hand brake, as i new it would be coming off again.Hand brake works fine now. If the hydraulics don't work after that. Spool valve and 2 way ram will be fitted I think. I had my fork lift on it today and had to keep changing levers round to get it to work. It sort of worked. Diff lock working also.M😀
Awesome! Do you think the nylon block will work and handle the pushrods? I guess it's really only a guide block, so maybe? Anyway, it should be good enough to see if working I guess. I'd love to see a pic of it. Your adventures are the reason I thought of modeling it up in the first place!
Phenomenal idea on using a bolt and nyloc nut on the parking brake!!!!! I'm most definitely going to do this. I hate that little roll pin! Great idea.
@@path.of.discovery I drilled the hole in the hand bake lever slightly larger also. The small bolt on the quadrant guide/lock fits. I put a vid on Instagram in the next few days showing the block. M 😀
Hi Shane, I'm done with my DB880 restoration. I want to thank you for all you've shared with us since the beginning. Good luck with your DB !
Yay! Hope it all works! Thanks for the kind words
@@path.of.discovery Hi Shane, for me it's now over. Next year, I will take care of loader cylinders (leaks). Then, it will be the loader itself (fixing and painting) and trying to find a way to install a power steering cylinder on to help managing the weight of the loader in front. It finally was a good experience at the end even if it's more of a pain in the ass process.
You make it look so easy. Well done.
A standard torque figure for those bolts should do fine. It's just fastening, nothing getting squashed or deformed, so no reason for less or more here, at least in my opinion 🙂🚜🔧
Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰
Thanks a bunch! I would say it's the magic of editing, but in this case, it really was just that easy! Thanks for watching!
Well you made that look easy another well explained video my nickname for you is teacher 😀
Lol, thanks Jon! I can't help it really! The folks at work say the same thing. Of course part of my actual job IS teaching/coaching (lean/agile software dev principles & practices). Just the way I'm wired I guess... Thanks as always for watching and commenting Jon!
For path of discovery. Well that explains it shows in all of your videos I had a feeling you must tutor or have done in the past excellent 👍 👌 it's what makes you unique keep up the good work 👏
Hi Shane. I think I read a post from Ollek that said the chamfers on the distance piece go towards the pin so yours looks correct. I can’t understand why it makes a difference though. I’ve been looking back at photos of mine and I’m not sure that both distance pieces have the chamfer. It works, so I’m not going to take it to bits again. One thing though - there’s no washer shown in the parts manual behind the nyloc, at least not in the later 880 manual. Not sure why you would need it with a nyloc, but won’t do any harm as there’s plenty of thread on the connecting rod.
Ok thanks for the chamfer info, same though, I don't see why it'd make a difference. You're absolutely right about that washer. Checked the parts diagram and it's not there. Just my luck too that I finished doing the adjustments today and buttoned it all up and just now checking comments on today's video! Checked my disassembly video and yep, there's a washer there... 🤷♂ I guess maybe I put it on when I went through all this a year or so ago maybe? I was missing a washer for the screws that hold the Quadrant front plate on... May have gotten mixed in with the connecting link parts bag on the first go-round on this and put there by mistake... who knows! Like you said though, it won't hurt anything and I'm NOT about to take it all apart again now that I've got it all adjusted correctly! Guess it'll be right there till I do this again (hopefully never).
Thanks David!
v important to check the tensionnon the quadrant lever nut regular - if loose the lever can fly back to raise the arms - a nieghbour got killed trapped between the arm and mudguard - lever sprang back!
Hi Nick, great advice! Mine was getting quite loose before I took it all to pieces. I've got it all adjusted now (video coming soon-ish) and the control arm is much stiffer than it was but still free enough for good movement. I'm quite happy with it, but may tighten up a bit more once there's some weight on the arms and I can see how it feels. Thanks a bunch for watching and commenting!
When l had to replace this, there was no hole in that connecting link, so l tied some twine around the spring and threaded it through the back and has someone pull, worked but another thing that was tricky, and l think you’ve got them spacers in the right position, I had to set that rod up so the arms would lift high enough when you pull the quadrant all the way back so the lift lock would engage
Hi Glenn, no hole there would be an absolute nightmare! I can definitely see how that'd be tricky to do. About the arms lifting and the latch, you reminded me I just learned something from the forum about that. Apparently the arms won't go high enough to engage the latch until the control arm is fully back against the spring (in select position). Ollek says it's normal that the lever must be in constant pumping (fully back) in order to get the lift latch engaged. Didn't know until I read that. Anyway, thanks a bunch for watching and commenting!
dbtc.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17723
Hi Shane you made that look so easy, gotta take mine back to put the rockshaft in, dtill waiting for waether to improve so we can paint.
Thanks Barry! It was pretty easy. Getting that spring and distance piece on is the hard part and once I remembered to use a wrench like I did, it was just bolting it on!
My draft control needle is stuck any tips how to free it up?
I have a david brown 995 and the 3 point works in the wrong direction up on the control is down and down is up. It goes up quickly and down very slow. Not sure whats wrong and was wondering if you had any ideas. Just bought the tractor and dont know any history
Hi and thanks for the comment! It could be the tractor is in traction control mode (TCU)? The quadrant handle is different when in that mode. Not sure though. Be sure to get an operators manual and service manual. I've got a video that I'll link below to the right spot where I talk about where to find manuals online:
th-cam.com/video/5nYhhXXpGFw/w-d-xo.html
Can i buy a cd of these hydraulic repairs to DB 990
While I'm flattered that you think my videos are worthy to sell, I don't think I'm going to be putting them out on CD or DVD. I've saved everything I've made, and if youtube ever goes away or something happens, I may do something then. Thanks!