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Thank you for this video! I have this exact trailer and this was super helpful

Hi, I have an 885. My arms will lift my mower, but then start to slowly drop. Do you think it could be the bypass valve ? Many thanks Tony

Great video mate. Very detailed. I have a 990 that is giving me some problems when I lower the hydraulic. For some reason it doesn’t lower as much as it used to. Any idea what’s causing this?

My lowering needle valve is stuck! Any tips on how to remove it? I was thinking heat but i was unsure if there are any orings i might damage

My draft control needle is stuck any tips how to free it up?

I love your videos! I recently aquired a 990 and i have zero movement on the 3 point . Ill be re watching your videos for a couple weeks!

Case sells some parts for the david brown i have almost all the parts look up for any model db call your local case dealer for any help

Great video! I own a 990 select automatic in Vermont and haven’t really had much info on where to get stuff. This was great thank you.

I had the pleasure of doing this at the David Brown factory in Meltham, on a factory training course back in '81. A full weeks training on selectomatic hydraulics. I had forgotten most of it after 40 odd years

My PTO is stuck when it is in neutral. If I loosen the bolts I can turn the PTO.

A most knowledgeable chap who has posted highly detailed videos on here of his rebuild exploits on an old D.B. is Man From The Mist , ( Barry ) , there is also D3SShooter in Holland who has provided the most marvellous flowcharts of how the complex D.B. hydraulics SHOULD work , for parts I have used Gwynedd Farm Machinery in N.W. Wales , Mr J. Morgan is a mine of knowledge & info on these tough old tractors , the one golden rule that my late best friend who had 2 of them , one after the other , told me is , keep the right level of the right oil in the back end , & keep the oil perfectly clean & the filters changed / serviced . This make of tractor has many finely machined interactive valves built into a sensing block , the selectamatic block , & it just won,t tolerate muck , water or sludge getting into the oil , this will just jam the valves in the block & cause the hydraulics to behave as if they,ve got a poltergeist in them , they haven,t , just some unwanted debris . These valves are highly sensitive to their settings , & if not used regularly are prone to sticking , watch Barry,s videos , & D3SShooter,s & you,ll be wiser . As always , if beaten , contact Stuart at Barcley Williams , Honeybourne , Worcestershire , England . There are no electronics in these hydraulics to lose the plot & go wrong , it,s just physical things like the wrong oil ( too thick ) , or muck stuck in a valve or two , but setting them is quite an art , I think there are 4 stages to do , & one special gauge to use . Don,t abuse the relief valves on the hydraulic pump,s output , they are now unavaillable . Service your top link bracket regularly , because if double - acting , the springs are now unavaillable , which means buying a scrap one & making one good one out of 2 dodgy efforts , it can be done , I,ve done it . They dry out & lose their grease , there is no forced lubrication supply to the top link bracket , it,s just bolted down to the top of the PTO casting , you have to remove it , strip it down & clean the rust out , then liberally regrease everything . once done on the D/A ones , there is a welch plug on the top , this can be carefully twisted out & a few fluid ounces of E.P.90 gear oil squirted in to keep things lubed , then gently tap the plug back in . Take great note of the positioning of the operating cable between the top link bracket & the sensing box on the back of the R.H. halfshaft housing , it is always tensioned , & must work perfectly . Persons wanting to know how to set this either ask Barry or me on here , it,s a bit of an art . These were all made in a little South Yorkshire village set in a ravine , but were sold the world over , as was usual for industrialists , they made them for other companies as well , I,ve seen them on the net painted green & cream with american " Oliver " stickers on them . First company to put an excellent semi - powershift gearbox in a tractor - David Brown Hydrashift . A driver,s delight & marvellous timesaver .

Nice 990 my 990 is an early one to Have a nice time with your David Brown Greetings from Germany

Hi again. I'm now trying to fix noisy final drives on my Selectamatic DB880. I didn't know those were adjusted with shims ! Takes just a few thou and you're in trouble. We're about to finish the more noisy one. David Brown have put high quality made in England Timken tapered roller bearing in their final drives. They are pretty much like new. I changed only one and bought shims, O rings and new seals to adjust pinion shaft and carrier. I'd say that there are issues here : One - It's pretty hard to remove pinion cap without taking the whole final drive assembly out. Two - I don't know if David Brown dealers told the buyer at the time that it would need to be adjust on a regular base. Adding shims on pinion shaft and removing some on the carrier. Three - Shims were not the best option of adjustment in my point of view. But I'm nearly done and learned something new on DB's tractors. I will put 75/140 synthetic oil in final drives at the end. Only hope it will help the kill the noise at least a bit. I'm thinking of putting 80/90 gear oil in the transmission. What I've put last year was TDH oil. Your thoughts please ? At the time, farmers were probably putting 80/90 and not TDH. Thanks for answering.

Pls help is there any outer bearing in david brown

Congratulations on the subs! Woo Hoo! I love the old John Deere A. I'm revamping my shed so a bit unorganised as well. I'm sure I have some A stuff somewhere I'll check for you.

Solid old workhorse the 990.

Hi shane, nice to see you back. Ive uploaded a few videos on my db990 i talked to you about in your previous videos, feel free to have a look and leave a comment. Hope u like it and wish you luck with your john deere 🤞

Should slot the guide screws makes it easy to put in and take out with a long flat head screwdriver.

very helpful

hlo brother i need to talk with you . i,m from india and i have a david brown 990 .I want to restore it. i need your help.

Hi Shane, nice to see you back, you new,old place is amazing must have loads of good memories of it, can't wait to see the JD starting,

Congratulations on now over 1000 subscribers 👏 yes been a long time but time goes quickly as you get older love your new place and I've got barn envy!!! Love the john deere your get it running but don't paint her she's got perfect platina have you still got your land that you videoed when you fixed your hydraulics?

Looking forward to see the John Deer restoration. 99% chance it starts no problem. That new shed looks good. I'll see if there is any knowledge that I can find here in UK on it. M 😀

Do you have calcium filled rear tires or just air?

My piston is also stuck but this is a good opportunity to get it out very nice videos of you and Barry

Great stuff, I have a 885 with loader and as much as I love it, it is worn out. Great to see how well they work when repaired, I will do the same sometime soon.

Good job man i know all about david browns tractors but zetor tractors are a way easier to get air out of fuel system sometines no need to open bleed screw just pump air out and start and zetor were ahead of their time with all standard extras

I live in the village where David Brown tractors were made. They are simple to work on, reliable and long lasting. Unlike modern tractors the electrics are basic. Good luck with your project, I doubt that you will have many problems!👍🇬🇧

What a superb closeup video, so helpful. Thanks Shane. My 990's quandrant lever is buckling and not moving easily..so it's strip it down time, and probably new washer tome time!

Hello can you please help me please but im having same problem but keep bleeding it keeps on getting airlock go round tightin everything done all injetors everything to do with fuel keeps happening

Hi Shane I need to split my 990 between the axle and gear box , do I need to pull the pto housing first ? Or can I split right at the gearbox and rear axle ?

Shane, I am having trouble with the hour meter drive assembly on my 990 (later model orange and white ) have you ever worked on this? Thanks, Al

Hi from 🇮🇪 , great video 👏 very clear and detailed. Quick query for you !! We put a front loader on our 996 with the necessary pipe work. The front loader works vise Vera sometimes times (as in , even with a heavy load - as your dropping it will shoot right back up with lever in decent mode) Wondering if you think if any of the valves in you video would be the cause ?

Bonjour J'aurais besoin de votre aide

Hi Shean, great video, Wonder if you can help me witha hydralice problem on the lifting arms, I can't see any info on the problem anywhere. Anywa whats happening is when the lifting lever is in the down possition when I start the tractoe the arms come up, after they are up they want go down with lever in down posstion. very irritating, ant idea what is causing this please? Thanks, Ian.

Were is the paper filter?

C1191A FRAM on my CASE1294 / replacement with wix 33166 🐺

Hello Shane, I appreciate your videos very much. I have had a DB 990 Selectamatic 1973 model for 30 years. I recently loss the Hydraulics on it when for some unknown reason the Intermediate Gear that drives the Hydraulic Pump unscrewed from its housing - no damage it just unscrewed. Your video working with the PTO was invaluable. I accidentally discovered that the "O" on the discharge of the Hydraulic Pump was bad while I was rotating the gear on the pump by hand, I heard and saw a hissing sound from air and oil leaking around the "O" Ring. I have been searching for a 9mm x 3mm CS 90 Durometer "O" ring as per your recommendation. I finally found one but it is not 90 Durometer, and would be concerned about using it. I have obtained a standard replacement from Case-IH Dealer here in Kentucky and will have to use it if I can't find the upgraded ring. Where can I find one? They can be ordered from China on Ebay but who knows what quality they might be. Thanks for the help.

If engine runs beed again. The problem is the handpump is on the other side of the engine You can not See if there is still air in it

Nice sound

Do you have any info on bleeding the air out of the hydraulics? I can only find vague information. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a 990 selectamic

Tractor is built after March 1966

The most difficult part of the job

Hello nice nice video I have a question I see that you have the select lever on tcu mode..but why is it not in the middle? Kind regards from Germany

My name is David Brown and I have 3 David Browns, two 880 selectamatics and a 996. One of the 880's is in rough shape and has a flat tire so I will probably use it for parts, The other 880 needs work on the hydraulics and the 996 runs great and I have had is since 2010. I had a 990 seletamatic in the early nineties when I had a hobby farm and I wish I had not sold it. I grew up in the 60's and 70's working on a dairy farm and the the guy I worked for had Case tractors but the neighbor had a DB.

Hello Shane, Excellent job on this video. I'm currently in the middle of the same job on my DB990 as you did and yours and Barry's video have been very helpful. The Hydraulics suddenly failed while I was working with the tractor. For reason that may forever remain a mystery; the Hyd Pump Intermediate drive gear's mounting shaft back completely out and it and the gear were just laying in the bottom of the casting. The Shaft has right hand thread and that gear turns to the right since the PTO Power mounted gear turns counter clockwise the same as the Engine; so if something had locked up in the gearing the torque would have been in the clockwise (tightening) direction of the threaded intermediate gear's shaft. I'm going to replace the bearing and would like to replace the shaft too because the inside race has done a bit of spinning on the shaft - no much .001" undersized. But of course a new shaft is not available. There is currently a .010" shim between the rear face of the race and the face of the casting that should lock the inside race in place; so I made and added an additional .003" shim; I may add an additional .001" or .002" shim. I will use some Loctite on the thread shaft - probably use Blue but tempted to use Red when I remount the shaft. Like you I also found that the "O" ring on the discharge side of the pump was bad. I discovered it while manually turning the Pump's Gear and I heard a hissing sound. One strange thing was that I did not have a single wrench or socket (metric or otherwise) in my tool box that would fit the four suction pipe flange bolts.

What is the number of this 990I can verify the age of this tractor

That's an early selectamatic

Lookin to buying a DB 1210. Hopefully your video will help get the tractor to start. Hasn't ran in a few years.

Hey Shane, great videos, they’ve helped so much. Quick question. What oil did you put in it? Thanks