If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
I thought I'd comment here because it's hard to find infos on pre-LSI Oil filter housing, and I happened to struggle with it (again). The Pre-LSI Oil filter housing comes with a detachable spring and cage. When they are present, the oil filter is REALLY HARD to separate from the housing. I had to use an oil filter wrench to have enough leverage to get it off both times. If the spring and cage has been lost to the age, what several persons on the community recommend is to get a MANN filter: those work well without the spring and cage. If you still have a spring and cage, do NOT buy the MANN filter, as the spring and cage won't fit. I'm using a Purflux one, but you may need to choose another brand available locally (I don't think it's worldwide). As a hint, it should have plastic on both sides (the MANN one does not), though I'm not sure it's a surefire way to choose. Another hard to find info: in the Pre-LSI oil filter housing, there is a black plastic tube (see at 7:23 the tube protuding from the center of the housing? That's black on the Pre-LSI one) that is detachable and CAN unscrew and fall when you remove the oil filter. Don't make the mistake of throwing it away. From personal experience, you can run without it if you have the factory spring and cage. But if you try to run without it while also missing the factory spring and cage, even with a known-good MANN filter, you will have the low oil pressure at idle. Revving up a bit makes it go away, then it comes back after a few seconds at idle.
I found that the oil filter housing is easier to loosen if you bring the engine up to operating temperature before you do the job. The heat of the engine causes the housing threads to expand and contract from one another
Recently came across your channel as I was after a guide to dropping the subframe. Your videos and production quality are incredibly impressive! You have earned a loyal subscriber!
I still use your How-too vids for referenece- Its oil and filter change and two years agao, i had oil gush out where it WASNT seated- due to the tight fit. Mine still has the pastic cage in place, so I still use it- just in case!
Hi, Excellent videos. I believe I need to replace the oil drain back plunger. Would appreciate any advice on how to remove the oil drain back plunger. Thank you.
Arguably left me more confused. I have the crossland filter that was given to me from my auto parts shop, so is it no good? I had to forcefully remove the filter as it was stuck in the housing and couldn’t be clear of the orientation as it came out. My guide sleeve also looks different to the one you drew, and the owners manual is useless! Classic Mini headaches lol… Should be a simple oil change now I’m worried about oil pressure.
Your probably better asking in a Mini forum on Facebook as I found it very confusing as well. My Mini didn't have the issue so I think it was just the first ones originally. A Mini group will have some experienced members that will know about it better I expect.
My daughter felt I should be the co driver on a Welsh Rally for some reason. I did request we try not to end up on the roof with the wheels spinning away lol
hi mark , thanks for the video , the oil filter cap was not a easy removal hhhh , but you did it , just want to say that mini recommand castrol oil BMW LongLife-01 A3/B4 spécification ,and not the C3 , i know that castrol is a little bit expensive , other brand is ok but you should respect the oil specification , thaks again and keep going
Thank you for the comment and compliment. I was lucky the housing didn't shatter. There seems to be some controversy over the oil as it's recommended that in Europe Long-life 04 is used but apparently this isn't advised in North America due to the sulphur content in the fuel. Hayne's here in the Uk says Long-Life 04. As usual everything is as clear as mud lol. Are you in the US or Europe AA ZT ?
@@CoatsandGaiters in the past i had the same problem with the oil filter housing , it was so stuck that i forced to loosen the cap , a few days later i got a big oil leek , i remeved the oil filter changed the seal , the leek was always there , i ended up changing completely the oil filter housing maybe he got cracked somewhere . for the oil specification i learne something I didn't think there was a problem with the fuel thank you , i live in europe im from france
@@aazt5792 Wonder why they get stuck. I know two dissimilar metals can react together and cause a current flow and corrosion but the top and base are the same metals. Wonder if people over tighten then miss a service or two and it locks on good and proper. Thank fully it's not leaked and I've done a 100 miles in it. My worry was breaking the tool more than the car haha. My allegiance is with my tools over my cars.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think there are many reasons , people neglected servicing there cars , over tightening the cap , forgrting to lubricate the seal , and so on
Thanks for the detail here. I'm curious though; Why did you remove the filter before draining the oil? Then I'm thinking you wouldn't need to worry about oil running down the filter housing (or does it not drain).
Also after resetting service inspection value to 15500, i drove my car 20 miles, but the service inspection value is still at 15500 and not getting decreased, why is that?
@@mak4661 I sadly don't have a Mini anymore so you might be best asking in the Mini group on Facebook. This guys know the Mini inside out. Sorry I couldn't help but have no owners manuals anymore.
Hi Mark No Cage? How did you get on with your filter? My ordered part SKOF-0860124 also comes without cage inside. Says its suitable for my R50 but It would be if the car had the old housing wouldnt it .... Did yours in the vid crumple once wet? Lee
Hi Mark, i just wanted to know your thoughts. I’m trying to get to the bottom of something. I recently changed my timing chain on my r50 mini and fitted a new hydraulic chain tensioner. At the same time I changed the oil and oil filter. I now have a weird situation where if the car is sat for a week and I go to start it, there’s a horrendous rattle for a couple of seconds until the oil pressure builds up. It never did this before, so I suspect it’s either something to do with the new oil filter I fitted or return back valve playing up or it’s the hydraulic tensioner. What do you think it might be?
Wonder if the oil is draining out the system while sat. Normally there's a spring valve in the oil filter housing housing at the bottom to keep the oil in the filter. Sounds like the chain rattling. Does it take a while for the oil pressure light to go out as if you had just done an oil change? Don't forget the filter issues with the old one and the new life cycle impulse ones as they had a cage inside and a spring. Might be worth checking if the filter was the correct one for you car.
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks for replying. The oil pressure light goes out straight away even after standing for a week, as if everything is working as normal in that regard. The type of oil filter housing cap I have is the one with a cage and spring. The filter itself also has a cage. I checked all this this morning. I have changed the filter this morning so I’ll see if this makes any difference. I think my return valve is also working ok. The filter was the cheapest thing to replace. If this doesn’t fix it, I’m going to change my hydraulic tensioner which came with the BGA chain kit. I wonder if the BGA ones aren’t very good. The one I took out was a febi Bilstein but unfortunately I threw it away. I might have to bite the bullet and buy another febi one. Not sure what else to do really.
@@petea7323 just to check when you put the tensioner in did you leave the plastic bit on it as initially I removed mine thinking it was a protective cover and didn’t realise it was part of the tensioner itself.
@@CoatsandGaiters I know what you mean. I don’t believe I removed it but can’t remember. I’m going away for work for a week, on my return I’ll start the car and see if this new oil filter has made any difference (I have my doubts)
@@CoatsandGaiters hello Mark. Just a quick update on this. I replaced my oil filter from a Crossland branded one to a Bosch and the startup rattle has completely disappeared. I left my car for 6 days without starting it and started up with no issues. Maybe somehow the crossland filter was allowing the oil to drain back into the sump. I’ve read online a bad filter on these cars can cause oil pressure issues on startup. I’ve read Mann and Bosch are the ones to go for.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
I thought I'd comment here because it's hard to find infos on pre-LSI Oil filter housing, and I happened to struggle with it (again).
The Pre-LSI Oil filter housing comes with a detachable spring and cage. When they are present, the oil filter is REALLY HARD to separate from the housing. I had to use an oil filter wrench to have enough leverage to get it off both times.
If the spring and cage has been lost to the age, what several persons on the community recommend is to get a MANN filter: those work well without the spring and cage.
If you still have a spring and cage, do NOT buy the MANN filter, as the spring and cage won't fit. I'm using a Purflux one, but you may need to choose another brand available locally (I don't think it's worldwide). As a hint, it should have plastic on both sides (the MANN one does not), though I'm not sure it's a surefire way to choose.
Another hard to find info: in the Pre-LSI oil filter housing, there is a black plastic tube (see at 7:23 the tube protuding from the center of the housing? That's black on the Pre-LSI one) that is detachable and CAN unscrew and fall when you remove the oil filter. Don't make the mistake of throwing it away.
From personal experience, you can run without it if you have the factory spring and cage. But if you try to run without it while also missing the factory spring and cage, even with a known-good MANN filter, you will have the low oil pressure at idle. Revving up a bit makes it go away, then it comes back after a few seconds at idle.
Brilliant information. Thank you
I found that the oil filter housing is easier to loosen if you bring the engine up to operating temperature before you do the job.
The heat of the engine causes the housing threads to expand and contract from one another
Thank you for that.
Recently came across your channel as I was after a guide to dropping the subframe. Your videos and production quality are incredibly impressive! You have earned a loyal subscriber!
Thank you for that Ahmed. I do try my best to make quality videos using 3 cameras running at the same time.
Cold oil is 5 weight. Hot oil is 30 weight. I just drain the cold and thin oil since all the oil is in the pan not up in the valve train.
I still use your How-too vids for referenece- Its oil and filter change and two years agao, i had oil gush out where it WASNT seated- due to the tight fit. Mine still has the pastic cage in place, so I still use it- just in case!
Hiya Patrick, hope your keeping well. I was in my daughters Mini the other day, they are still fun to be in aren't they.
Great video, just bought a mini for first time and need to know how this was done.
Thank you, hope you enjoy your mini. I did love them but a bit more expensive to buy sadly.
Hi, Excellent videos. I believe I need to replace the oil drain back plunger. Would appreciate any advice on how to remove the oil drain back plunger. Thank you.
Arguably left me more confused. I have the crossland filter that was given to me from my auto parts shop, so is it no good? I had to forcefully remove the filter as it was stuck in the housing and couldn’t be clear of the orientation as it came out. My guide sleeve also looks different to the one you drew, and the owners manual is useless!
Classic Mini headaches lol… Should be a simple oil change now I’m worried about oil pressure.
Your probably better asking in a Mini forum on Facebook as I found it very confusing as well. My Mini didn't have the issue so I think it was just the first ones originally. A Mini group will have some experienced members that will know about it better I expect.
Thanks for your help, From Mexico! ♥️
Thank you for the comment. Hope it helped you.
Excellent tutorial 👍🏼
Thank you
Yes, mines a football car and only gets used going to matches (non league) But it’s easier to park and cheap to run.
My daughter felt I should be the co driver on a Welsh Rally for some reason. I did request we try not to end up on the roof with the wheels spinning away lol
Thanks... excelent tutorial!!! ❤
Thank you
The filter also needs to be filled with oil hence why you needed that extra amount of oil at the end
hi mark , thanks for the video , the oil filter cap was not a easy removal hhhh , but you did it , just want to say that mini recommand castrol oil BMW LongLife-01 A3/B4 spécification ,and not the C3 , i know that castrol is a little bit expensive , other brand is ok but you should respect the oil specification , thaks again and keep going
Thank you for the comment and compliment. I was lucky the housing didn't shatter. There seems to be some controversy over the oil as it's recommended that in Europe Long-life 04 is used but apparently this isn't advised in North America due to the sulphur content in the fuel. Hayne's here in the Uk says Long-Life 04. As usual everything is as clear as mud lol. Are you in the US or Europe AA ZT ?
@@CoatsandGaiters in the past i had the same problem with the oil filter housing , it was so stuck that i forced to loosen the cap , a few days later i got a big oil leek , i remeved the oil filter changed the seal , the leek was always there , i ended up changing completely the oil filter housing maybe he got cracked somewhere . for the oil specification i learne something I didn't think there was a problem with the fuel thank you , i live in europe im from france
@@aazt5792 Wonder why they get stuck. I know two dissimilar metals can react together and cause a current flow and corrosion but the top and base are the same metals. Wonder if people over tighten then miss a service or two and it locks on good and proper. Thank fully it's not leaked and I've done a 100 miles in it. My worry was breaking the tool more than the car haha. My allegiance is with my tools over my cars.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think there are many reasons , people neglected servicing there cars , over tightening the cap , forgrting to lubricate the seal , and so on
@@aazt5792 just glad it came off ok
So you don't take the spring out of the old one to put in the new one .? Thanks.
Seems to be a real problem area. I don’t think BMW have tackled this problem very well. Still leaves you a bit unknowing what your meant to do.
Thanks for the detail here. I'm curious though; Why did you remove the filter before draining the oil? Then I'm thinking you wouldn't need to worry about oil running down the filter housing (or does it not drain).
Thank you. Normally removing the filter or undoing it will allow the oil in the housing to drain back into the sump.
What does the next value mean after service inspection value, i have reset that value too, which is 716 now after reset. Kindly brief me on that.
Also after resetting service inspection value to 15500, i drove my car 20 miles, but the service inspection value is still at 15500 and not getting decreased, why is that?
@@mak4661 I sadly don't have a Mini anymore so you might be best asking in the Mini group on Facebook. This guys know the Mini inside out. Sorry I couldn't help but have no owners manuals anymore.
Ohh its ok, thanku for the guidance.
GREAT VIDEO VERY HELPFUL
Thank you
Very good, he is very meticulous.
Thank you
Hi Mark No Cage?
How did you get on with your filter?
My ordered part SKOF-0860124 also comes without cage inside. Says its suitable for my R50 but It would be if the car had the old housing wouldnt it ....
Did yours in the vid crumple once wet?
Lee
Mine was ok and had no issues. Car now sold and all was ok. Really confusing area isn’t it.
@@CoatsandGaiters It is, cheers for the confirmation, I'll stick it in and see what happens
@@leemch6343 I believe you can still buy the old original filters for the spring and cage type of housing
Indeed, guessed that would be the case which made me wonder if I had ordered the wrong one
Hi Mark, i just wanted to know your thoughts. I’m trying to get to the bottom of something. I recently changed my timing chain on my r50 mini and fitted a new hydraulic chain tensioner. At the same time I changed the oil and oil filter.
I now have a weird situation where if the car is sat for a week and I go to start it, there’s a horrendous rattle for a couple of seconds until the oil pressure builds up. It never did this before, so I suspect it’s either something to do with the new oil filter I fitted or return back valve playing up or it’s the hydraulic tensioner. What do you think it might be?
Wonder if the oil is draining out the system while sat. Normally there's a spring valve in the oil filter housing housing at the bottom to keep the oil in the filter. Sounds like the chain rattling. Does it take a while for the oil pressure light to go out as if you had just done an oil change? Don't forget the filter issues with the old one and the new life cycle impulse ones as they had a cage inside and a spring. Might be worth checking if the filter was the correct one for you car.
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks for replying. The oil pressure light goes out straight away even after standing for a week, as if everything is working as normal in that regard.
The type of oil filter housing cap I have is the one with a cage and spring.
The filter itself also has a cage. I checked all this this morning.
I have changed the filter this morning so I’ll see if this makes any difference. I think my return valve is also working ok. The filter was the cheapest thing to replace.
If this doesn’t fix it, I’m going to change my hydraulic tensioner which came with the BGA chain kit. I wonder if the BGA ones aren’t very good. The one I took out was a febi Bilstein but unfortunately I threw it away. I might have to bite the bullet and buy another febi one. Not sure what else to do really.
@@petea7323 just to check when you put the tensioner in did you leave the plastic bit on it as initially I removed mine thinking it was a protective cover and didn’t realise it was part of the tensioner itself.
@@CoatsandGaiters I know what you mean. I don’t believe I removed it but can’t remember. I’m going away for work for a week, on my return I’ll start the car and see if this new oil filter has made any difference (I have my doubts)
@@CoatsandGaiters hello Mark. Just a quick update on this. I replaced my oil filter from a Crossland branded one to a Bosch and the startup rattle has completely disappeared. I left my car for 6 days without starting it and started up with no issues. Maybe somehow the crossland filter was allowing the oil to drain back into the sump. I’ve read online a bad filter on these cars can cause oil pressure issues on startup.
I’ve read Mann and Bosch are the ones to go for.
.👍👍
Thank you