I didn't have a prybar with as tight a bend when I rebuilt my Dana60. Instead, I was able to use a gear puller with a spacer between the jaws to prevent them from slipping out. I think I like your method better (if nothing else, it was much faster).
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE the best thing I have found to remove these stubborn spindle bearings is a cheap but very effective Chinese made 3 jaw pilot bearing puller ( found on ebay ) . The design is so PERFECT to remove these bearings . The 3 jaws fit precisely under the bearing & once adjusted / locked down , there is no way for the jaws to slip off . Plus this puller works on so many other similar applications ...you or anyone else won't be disappointed in purchasing this 3 jaw pilot bearing puller.
@@faronf2006 - I actually have one of those, but I bought it after I had already removed this one. I'll have it for next time. Thanks for the input! Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE I tried the pry bar method from the back of the spindle bearing BUT it did not even budge . So then I did like you & removed a few of the old needle bearings to knock the bearing out on the outer face & it worked. But now that I have the 3 jaw pilot bearing puller , I too will be using it for future jobs like this .Plus it makes it good if a person is wanting to clean & reuse a good old bearing .
If the bearing was ~0.22 inches deep and the soft black washer was 0.186 inches thick, then the washer would sit below the surface that the hard beveled washer will rest upon. I thought the soft washer has to be at the same height or a little above the surface. This way there will be less chance for water infiltration.
Working on a Dana 35. This helps.
Excellent. I have a Dana 30 and a Dana 44 to do myself, both for early Broncos. Good luck with yours, Scott
Thanks for posting !
Thanks for commenting! Scott
Great work Scott the project really is coming along?👍
Thanks YDOC! Slowly but surely! Scott
I didn't have a prybar with as tight a bend when I rebuilt my Dana60. Instead, I was able to use a gear puller with a spacer between the jaws to prevent them from slipping out. I think I like your method better (if nothing else, it was much faster).
David - Nicely done! I didn't think of that. Thanks for the input, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE the best thing I have found to remove these stubborn spindle bearings is a cheap but very effective Chinese made 3 jaw pilot bearing puller ( found on ebay ) . The design is so PERFECT to remove these bearings . The 3 jaws fit precisely under the bearing & once adjusted / locked down , there is no way for the jaws to slip off . Plus this puller works on so many other similar applications ...you or anyone else won't be disappointed in purchasing this 3 jaw pilot bearing puller.
@@faronf2006 - I actually have one of those, but I bought it after I had already removed this one. I'll have it for next time. Thanks for the input! Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE I tried the pry bar method from the back of the spindle bearing BUT it did not even budge . So then I did like you & removed a few of the old needle bearings to knock the bearing out on the outer face & it worked. But now that I have the 3 jaw pilot bearing puller , I too will be using it for future jobs like this .Plus it makes it good if a person is wanting to clean & reuse a good old bearing .
Is he talking about removing bearing or seat ?
It's the bearing.
If the bearing was ~0.22 inches deep and the soft black washer was 0.186 inches thick, then the washer would sit below the surface that the hard beveled washer will rest upon. I thought the soft washer has to be at the same height or a little above the surface. This way there will be less chance for water infiltration.