I was a shipboard firefighter for 6 years, including crash & smash aircraft & ordinance. The thought of a building fire was always more terrifying than an engine room flooded with diesel fuel or even 500lb bombs burning on the flight deck. You guys pull some serious ninja technique! Salute!
fucking dont even want to be a firefighter but I trip out at how much yall train off the clock basically to improve your work standards...it really is a true test of your care for what you do...not sure how much a firefighter gets paid but I have thought about it..y'all are heros in every sense of the word
I am not a Firefighter, but as a young man I did aspire to be one. It was that or a police officer. Neither was to be, due to a medical condition. I love watching videos like yours because they show some of the precise training you undergo, and how dangerous and lethal your jobs can be. I have been forever inspired by the brotherhood, bravery, discipline and ethics that you all have; without people like you our society would not be a good one. Be blessed and be safe!
I'm 15 and am waiting patiently for 21 to be a firefighter but not one that stands outside a burning building one that goes in Anyways sorry to hear about your condition is it cancer or what
Be H Heart related. Thank God nothing as bad as cancer. I hope you go on to have a wonderful and fulfilling career as a life saver! Be safe and reach high.
So...Just wanted to make a comment about your "Barrel Knot". As someone mentioned, this is also referred to as a "Double Fisherman's Knot". In Rock Climbing, we use this knot as a backup, or a way of organizing/tying off the extra rope we have left over after our "Figure 8 followthrough" when tying up our Harnesses. I only thought this worth mentioning because I'd never consider using that as a primary knot, in particularly with so little of a tail left. I will concede that this application is safe. You've more experience and research than I. However, I see not why one would not want to leave a longer tail and tie a second "Barrel Knot". Why not, It can be easily tied in under 5 SECONDS. That's 5 Seconds that will make the knot safer, and perhaps...more importantly, add to the confidence you have in your' knot. Great Job out there though. Thank You for your service!!!!
Hello Thomas - CMC also refers to it as a "scaffold knot". The main reason it works well for securing the rope to the hook is that it keeps everything more streamlined, which can be important when storing your system for rapid deployment. You definitely could double up the knot and/or leave more tail if so desired - The only reason I don't is that I trust the knot. We have training systems with literally hundreds and hundreds of rappels on them and once the knot loads the tail doesn't slip at all. As I'm sure you know much this (like anything else) comes down to personal preference - Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Dale, I combined concepts between this load and your previous load with the Crosby hook. As I like the quick loop for the easy ability to lasso a tool or other object, with 30" of tail beyond the "8" I was able to both barrel knot the CMC hook and keep a 5" quick loop before following through with the rest of the "8". You may or may not like it, but I don't wanna be fooling around trying to get a section of rope through the of the hook in order to lasso a tool to use as an anchor. Let me kno
hi dale. me llamo david de cd mexico, exelente video ,mismo que me sirvio de mucho ya que yo soy brigadista contra incendios avansado. y soy maquinista de un camion bombero, un saludo, no dejes de compartir tu material y el material que publicas me sirve para perfeccionar mis ejercicios proximamente asistire al curso de la 1041 nfpa , un saludo..amigo.
Thanks for the quick reply! I've got another question if you don't mind. Do you think the web will hold a knot as good as rope? And if so what knot would you use to tie it onto a hook or carabiner. I'm piecing everything together as i get the money and am going to have to run with a carabiner on the anchor end for a little while.
Dave, They are not selling the Flash hook, only the FlashLite. Does that change your opinion? I currently use a Crosby, but based on this video, I want to try the CMC. I have lots of younger guys at fh asking about my system so if the CMC works well, I will recommend that to them
Jay, You can still purchase the original Flash from distributers if you look on line - With that being said I switched over to the FlashLite quite a while ago and have been very pleased with its performance. The original Flash was light, but the new version is the lightest hook on the market (that I know of at least) - That along with its thickness and lower profile makes it very easy to carry. I am seeing more and more variations of anchor hooks popping up on the market which can make it difficult for guys to decide which is best, but I've deployed the Flash and FlashLite on all sorts of materials on a variety of windows and locations and haven't been disappointed yet - Practice is the key though regardless of what hook or system you purchase - Good luck!
+DALE G. PEKEL Dale, thanks for the reply. I ordered the FlashLite and will let you know how it works out. 10-4 on the training. I help run most of the training at our department and believe fully in you cannot train enough. Thank you again and have a safe and happy New Year
Thanks for putting out such great videos. I have learned a lot from watching your channel. I'm building my personnel escape kit and was wondering what your opinion is in CMC's escape web vs their escape rope. The web seems like a lighter and less bulkier package. Thanks for everything you do!
What are your thoughts on the type of rope to be used? The Sterling rope appears to be much better but expensive. Have you done any research into that aspect?
Even with the barrel knot as its always drilled can a safety overhand knot impede the escape system I understand that the barrel knot will bind to itself when the system is loaded but just for additional security?
Hi I'm a newly hired FF and I'm looking to learning and choosing my PES. So far I really like the flashlite hook, my question is for the rope my friend mentioned something about technora from CMC 8.5 mm would that be a good rope to attach never heard of that I've only use kernmantle before just checking I was reading seems like it's a better rope actually but I wanna get your opinion on it.
I switched from the regular Flash hook to the FlashLite. I currently use Sterling FireTech 32 Technora rope which is 7.5mm Kevlar, but CMC also makes a great Technora escape line - 7.5mm is all you need. It's incredibly strong and takes up less room than larger diameter escape lines. I'm not a fan of escape webbing, but it does provide for a more compact and lighter weight system. You have a ton of choices now a days and in the end it really comes down to personal preference.
One more thing how many ft would you suggest I've been told you should have between 50-100ft should I go with 75ft, and I love your videos I've been learning a lot from them and I keep going over it.
I carry 40 feet - When using the hook as an anchor in the corner of a window it will easily get you down to the ground on most 4 story buildings. Anymore than 50 feet takes up a lot of room in your gear or requires a larger bag to carry and in my opinion it's way too bulky. Look at it this way: Most window sills (in living areas of residential buildings) are 2 - 3 feet of the floor. The distances between floors in residential buildings is usually around 10 feet - Taking these numbers into consideration: A 2nd floor window sill would be around 13 feet off the ground - If the window sills were equal all the way up (lets say in an apartment building) the 3rd floor window sill would than be 23 feet off the ground, the 4th floor would be 33 feet, the 5th floor 43 feet, etc. etc. If the window sills were 4 feet off the floor and the distance between floors was 12 feet your numbers would look like this: 2nd floor window 16 feet off the ground, 3rd floor 28 feet, 4th floor 40 feet, etc. etc. Also remember that when your reach the end of your rope (if you have a safety stop knot tied in the end your rope) it will terminate at waist level which adds another 3 - 4 feet of length to your rappel - So a 40 foot system is actually a 43 - 44 foot system. Now add in the fact that you can easily drop (feet first) another 5 feet w/o serious injury a 40 foot system will cover a lot of distance! This is why I only carry 40 feet and why I would say don't bother with anymore than 50 feet.
Thanks for the reply. After doing some additional research, I think I'm going to go with the Flash Lite. Did you get my message on your main page asking if you were the one who compared all of the hooks in a video, the only name I can remember was the Fesh. I can't seem to find it. Thanks again for all of your time and effort in these educational videos.
How did you feel about training with the actual escape system vs a trainer escape system? Do you find it dangerous/ reckless to do training and practicing on the same personal escape system that carry in your bunker gear? Do you feel training may weaken the integrity of the rope and other equipment?
Hello Nathan, thanks for your question. I'm not a fan of training with a front line system. I do feel it weakens the software/rope, especially when training with it over and over. With that being said; Purchasing a training system that duplicates your front line one is not very practical for most FFs.......We have training systems in the classes I teach that have hundreds and hundreds of deployments/rappels on them and they're still going strong, but we always put students on a belay just in the event the unexpected happens - Regardless of the arguments, using your front line system multiple times will weaken the rope to some degree, especially if it gets shocked loaded - The question is how much. Keeping the system 'virgin" helps to ensure confidence that it will hold up in an actual emergency.
Dale, I agree its fiscally not practical to have a second complete VRS. I am currently in the process of gathering the components to build a VRS like yours. With your experience in mind, what piece of equipment would you say takes the most wear and tear? Obliviously the rope would be first, would you say the F4 DCD or the CMC hook would be next? I agree that your front line system should be kept 'virgin' but also feel training with the system is of utmost importance.
If you practice from a low level prop wear and tear on the Hook and F4 is about the same - If you do a lot of full height rappels (2 stories or more) the F4 will show more wear. If you don't abuse either of them (drop or drag them on the ground) both will hold up just fine. The F4 unlike a lot of other DCDs can take a ton of slides and still function just fine - After time (200 - 300 rappels) others like the CMC EA, Petzl EXO, HALO and similar DCDs with an internal bollard, mech or cam will wear out - Especially with Kevlar rope. The braking device will no longer grab the rope causing the rope to slip and slide through the device. The F4s design isn't effected nearly as negatively.
One more thing to add - If you practice a lot of victim rescue techniques using the Flash as a DCD (What I call the Byrne Technique) and lower a load/victim from a 2nd floor or higher you will start to wear a grove in the Flash around the spine and hitching slot - More so if you use Kevlar rope than an all nylon or polyester fiber). This will compromise the integrity and strength of the Hook. Something also to add and note: The anodized coating over the aluminum is actually harder than the aluminum itself and once it wears through is creates a hard edge (microscopically) causing more wear and tear on the rope. Once the anodized coating is gone the aluminum will wear out a lot faster.
Thanks for the great info Dale! One last question if I may... do you think the brand or style caribiner manners for the auxiliary carabiner, as long as it has a lock (screw-lock)? Have you found better luck with the SMC vs another brand? Steel vs aluminum?
I currently carry the 2nd generation Escape Artist by CMC - They have come out with a few other variations beyond the one I have, but I still like the older version due to its compact size. As you may know there are a lot of different auto locking/self braking DCDs on the market now - I have variety of others that I provide in the classes I teach including; CMCs latest Escape Artist models, the Sterling F4, The Petzl EXO and the Halo by Xtreme Rescue. In the end each one as you can imagine has its pros and cons. Thanks for your question brother!
Yes - I have the Sterling Lightning GT and provide it in the classes I teach - Very nice hook, but my current favorite is the CMC FlashLite due to it's thin profile, light weight and solid performance.
It's a 30 inch ProBar (Halligan) - It weighs around 9-9.5lbs. My personal favorite is the LeatherHead 30" Halligan with the "Stepped" Adz (about 10.5 lbs.) : www.leatherheadtools.com/halligan-bar
hello I write from chile, I'm a volunteer firefighter and fire all of my country and I'm interested in this product as I purchase? is an emergency fastastico anchor. I want to buy one Casanova Francisco Leon, Santiago, Chile
The knot you are making is called a double running knot. There is absolutely no reason to make the tail so small. The fact is, a longer tail will only give you something more to grab on. I have never put so much weight on the knot so I would not simply tie it off like you did. What I WOULD do is tie it off with a longer tail and also tie a half hitch at the end to make sure there is absolutely no way possible to have slippage. You may have to tie off really quickly and if you do it wrong you could end up with a single running knot that is not so strong. A half hitch at the end will eliminate any possibility of slippage. I am no expert, but I know knots enough to know that is the best way to tie it off.
Apperantly it is also called a poachers knot. A barrel knot alone is called a stopper knot. What you are doing is creating a slipped loop so I don't think that would be a propper name for what you are doing. You're right though, there are many names. As far as the longer end, it probably is irrelevant but It's better to be safe than sorry in my opinion. If your hand slips you than have extra rope to grab, if the knot isn't tight enough and slips you than have extra tail to allow it to tighten. I am thinking along the lines of you having to make the knot quickly and exit a building. You're not going to have the time to make a perfect knot and so mistakes could happen.. Thank you for your response.
Not sure if you understand. Escape systems are intended to be pre-rigged; Meaning the knot is prettied on the hook. We have training systems that have hundreds and hundreds of rappels on them and the knot once cinched gets so tight you have to cut it off to replace the rope. It really is the BEST knot to use for this application. This isn't just my opinion - Consult some of the top rope rescue instructors from CMC (the same company that makes the Anchor Hook) and they will tell you the same thing. In the end if you prefer to use a different knot in your setup that's up to you.
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't know why I watched this video, but I'm glad I did, hats off to fire fighters around the globe!
I was a shipboard firefighter for 6 years, including crash & smash aircraft & ordinance. The thought of a building fire was always more terrifying than an engine room flooded with diesel fuel or even 500lb bombs burning on the flight deck. You guys pull some serious ninja technique! Salute!
You, brother, are my hero. Stranded in a flaming ship in deep water..hell no! Regards from a structural firefighter sister.
fucking dont even want to be a firefighter but I trip out at how much yall train off the clock basically to improve your work standards...it really is a true test of your care for what you do...not sure how much a firefighter gets paid but I have thought about it..y'all are heros in every sense of the word
Thank you for your kind words
That's a nice knot. Almost like a double constrictor knot, which you also have to cut off, but requires multiple passes.
I am not a Firefighter, but as a young man I did aspire to be one. It was that or a police officer. Neither was to be, due to a medical condition. I love watching videos like yours because they show some of the precise training you undergo, and how dangerous and lethal your jobs can be. I have been forever inspired by the brotherhood, bravery, discipline and ethics that you all have; without people like you our society would not be a good one. Be blessed and be safe!
I'm 15 and am waiting patiently for 21 to be a firefighter but not one that stands outside a burning building one that goes in
Anyways sorry to hear about your condition is it cancer or what
Be H why 21? Here it is 18.
Be H
Heart related. Thank God nothing as bad as cancer. I hope you go on to have a wonderful and fulfilling career as a life saver! Be safe and reach high.
Thank you @brad penrod
@reed Norris I live in New Mexico that's just that way it is I guess
I know this is a weird question but are you christian @brad penrod
Thanks for this video, it was very useful 😊🙏 I would like a system like that one day.
Nice video thank you that's also called a double fishers mans knot... your barrel knot
So...Just wanted to make a comment about your "Barrel Knot". As someone mentioned, this is also referred to as a "Double Fisherman's Knot". In Rock Climbing, we use this knot as a backup, or a way of organizing/tying off the extra rope we have left over after our "Figure 8 followthrough" when tying up our Harnesses. I only thought this worth mentioning because I'd never consider using that as a primary knot, in particularly with so little of a tail left. I will concede that this application is safe. You've more experience and research than I. However, I see not why one would not want to leave a longer tail and tie a second "Barrel Knot". Why not, It can be easily tied in under 5 SECONDS. That's 5 Seconds that will make the knot safer, and perhaps...more importantly, add to the confidence you have in your' knot. Great Job out there though. Thank You for your service!!!!
Hello Thomas - CMC also refers to it as a "scaffold knot". The main reason it works well for securing the rope to the hook is that it keeps everything more streamlined, which can be important when storing your system for rapid deployment. You definitely could double up the knot and/or leave more tail if so desired - The only reason I don't is that I trust the knot. We have training systems with literally hundreds and hundreds of rappels on them and once the knot loads the tail doesn't slip at all. As I'm sure you know much this (like anything else) comes down to personal preference - Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Dale, I combined concepts between this load and your previous load with the Crosby hook. As I like the quick loop for the easy ability to lasso a tool or other object, with 30" of tail beyond the "8" I was able to both barrel knot the CMC hook and keep a 5" quick loop before following through with the rest of the "8". You may or may not like it, but I don't wanna be fooling around trying to get a section of rope through the of the hook in order to lasso a tool to use as an anchor. Let me kno
hi dale. me llamo david de cd mexico, exelente video ,mismo que me sirvio de mucho ya que yo soy brigadista contra incendios avansado. y soy maquinista de un camion bombero, un saludo, no dejes de compartir tu material y el material que publicas me sirve para perfeccionar mis ejercicios proximamente asistire al curso de la 1041 nfpa , un saludo..amigo.
Thanks for the quick reply! I've got another question if you don't mind. Do you think the web will hold a knot as good as rope? And if so what knot would you use to tie it onto a hook or carabiner. I'm piecing everything together as i get the money and am going to have to run with a carabiner on the anchor end for a little while.
Very informative - thank you
Dave, They are not selling the Flash hook, only the FlashLite. Does that change your opinion? I currently use a Crosby, but based on this video, I want to try the CMC. I have lots of younger guys at fh asking about my system so if the CMC works well, I will recommend that to them
Jay, You can still purchase the original Flash from distributers if you look on line - With that being said I switched over to the FlashLite quite a while ago and have been very pleased with its performance. The original Flash was light, but the new version is the lightest hook on the market (that I know of at least) - That along with its thickness and lower profile makes it very easy to carry. I am seeing more and more variations of anchor hooks popping up on the market which can make it difficult for guys to decide which is best, but I've deployed the Flash and FlashLite on all sorts of materials on a variety of windows and locations and haven't been disappointed yet - Practice is the key though regardless of what hook or system you purchase - Good luck!
+DALE G. PEKEL Dale, thanks for the reply. I ordered the FlashLite and will let you know how it works out. 10-4 on the training. I help run most of the training at our department and believe fully in you cannot train enough. Thank you again and have a safe and happy New Year
Thanks for putting out such great videos. I have learned a lot from watching your channel. I'm building my personnel escape kit and was wondering what your opinion is in CMC's escape web vs their escape rope. The web seems like a lighter and less bulkier package. Thanks for everything you do!
What size rope do you use in your escape system with the escape artist?
Cmc says 7.5mm but other say 7.5mm to 8mm...
What are your thoughts on the type of rope to be used? The Sterling rope appears to be much better but expensive. Have you done any research into that aspect?
Awesome, thanks!
Even with the barrel knot as its always drilled can a safety overhand knot impede the escape system I understand that the barrel knot will bind to itself when the system is loaded but just for additional security?
What kind of rope do you use? I have the Sterline RIT 500, and I find it is very versatile.
Would you get the eye sewn on if you had the option? Do you trust the barrel knot more/less?
Hi I'm a newly hired FF and I'm looking to learning and choosing my PES. So far I really like the flashlite hook, my question is for the rope my friend mentioned something about technora from CMC 8.5 mm would that be a good rope to attach never heard of that I've only use kernmantle before just checking I was reading seems like it's a better rope actually but I wanna get your opinion on it.
Flash* not flashlite
I switched from the regular Flash hook to the FlashLite. I currently use Sterling FireTech 32 Technora rope which is 7.5mm Kevlar, but CMC also makes a great Technora escape line - 7.5mm is all you need. It's incredibly strong and takes up less room than larger diameter escape lines. I'm not a fan of escape webbing, but it does provide for a more compact and lighter weight system. You have a ton of choices now a days and in the end it really comes down to personal preference.
Thank you so much!
One more thing how many ft would you suggest I've been told you should have between 50-100ft should I go with 75ft, and I love your videos I've been learning a lot from them and I keep going over it.
I carry 40 feet - When using the hook as an anchor in the corner of a window it will easily get you down to the ground on most 4 story buildings. Anymore than 50 feet takes up a lot of room in your gear or requires a larger bag to carry and in my opinion it's way too bulky. Look at it this way: Most window sills (in living areas of residential buildings) are 2 - 3 feet of the floor. The distances between floors in residential buildings is usually around 10 feet - Taking these numbers into consideration: A 2nd floor window sill would be around 13 feet off the ground - If the window sills were equal all the way up (lets say in an apartment building) the 3rd floor window sill would than be 23 feet off the ground, the 4th floor would be 33 feet, the 5th floor 43 feet, etc. etc. If the window sills were 4 feet off the floor and the distance between floors was 12 feet your numbers would look like this: 2nd floor window 16 feet off the ground, 3rd floor 28 feet, 4th floor 40 feet, etc. etc. Also remember that when your reach the end of your rope (if you have a safety stop knot tied in the end your rope) it will terminate at waist level which adds another 3 - 4 feet of length to your rappel - So a 40 foot system is actually a 43 - 44 foot system. Now add in the fact that you can easily drop (feet first) another 5 feet w/o serious injury a 40 foot system will cover a lot of distance! This is why I only carry 40 feet and why I would say don't bother with anymore than 50 feet.
I am intrigued.
Dale, Having a difficult time locating a captive eye aluminum caribiner what type are you using?
Thanks for the reply. After doing some additional research, I think I'm going to go with the Flash Lite. Did you get my message on your main page asking if you were the one who compared all of the hooks in a video, the only name I can remember was the Fesh. I can't seem to find it. Thanks again for all of your time and effort in these educational videos.
Hey great video
What kind of flash light and strap do you have on your helmet
Lars
Have you been able to compare this to the Sterling Lightning hook at all? They look almost identical
How did you feel about training with the actual escape system vs a trainer escape system? Do you find it dangerous/ reckless to do training and practicing on the same personal escape system that carry in your bunker gear? Do you feel training may weaken the integrity of the rope and other equipment?
Hello Nathan, thanks for your question. I'm not a fan of training with a front line system. I do feel it weakens the software/rope, especially when training with it over and over. With that being said; Purchasing a training system that duplicates your front line one is not very practical for most FFs.......We have training systems in the classes I teach that have hundreds and hundreds of deployments/rappels on them and they're still going strong, but we always put students on a belay just in the event the unexpected happens - Regardless of the arguments, using your front line system multiple times will weaken the rope to some degree, especially if it gets shocked loaded - The question is how much. Keeping the system 'virgin" helps to ensure confidence that it will hold up in an actual emergency.
Dale, I agree its fiscally not practical to have a second complete VRS. I am currently in the process of gathering the components to build a VRS like yours. With your experience in mind, what piece of equipment would you say takes the most wear and tear? Obliviously the rope would be first, would you say the F4 DCD or the CMC hook would be next? I agree that your front line system should be kept 'virgin' but also feel training with the system is of utmost importance.
If you practice from a low level prop wear and tear on the Hook and F4 is about the same - If you do a lot of full height rappels (2 stories or more) the F4 will show more wear. If you don't abuse either of them (drop or drag them on the ground) both will hold up just fine. The F4 unlike a lot of other DCDs can take a ton of slides and still function just fine - After time (200 - 300 rappels) others like the CMC EA, Petzl EXO, HALO and similar DCDs with an internal bollard, mech or cam will wear out - Especially with Kevlar rope. The braking device will no longer grab the rope causing the rope to slip and slide through the device. The F4s design isn't effected nearly as negatively.
One more thing to add - If you practice a lot of victim rescue techniques using the Flash as a DCD (What I call the Byrne Technique) and lower a load/victim from a 2nd floor or higher you will start to wear a grove in the Flash around the spine and hitching slot - More so if you use Kevlar rope than an all nylon or polyester fiber). This will compromise the integrity and strength of the Hook. Something also to add and note: The anodized coating over the aluminum is actually harder than the aluminum itself and once it wears through is creates a hard edge (microscopically) causing more wear and tear on the rope. Once the anodized coating is gone the aluminum will wear out a lot faster.
Thanks for the great info Dale! One last question if I may... do you think the brand or style caribiner manners for the auxiliary carabiner, as long as it has a lock (screw-lock)? Have you found better luck with the SMC vs another brand? Steel vs aluminum?
Dude, ur surname Pekel means hell in Slovenian! :D
+Matej Hosner FIRE FIRE. Give them Pekel! :D
How well does a gloved hand fit in the cmc. I know it's fits nicely in the nars. Trying to decide which to get
Do you have a preference between the single and double version of the escape artist?
9:50 all so smooth, you must've had some practice
Former IAFF FF here. I've been out of it for quite a while. What is the descender device you are using called? Thanks.
I currently carry the 2nd generation Escape Artist by CMC - They have come out with a few other variations beyond the one I have, but I still like the older version due to its compact size. As you may know there are a lot of different auto locking/self braking DCDs on the market now - I have variety of others that I provide in the classes I teach including; CMCs latest Escape Artist models, the Sterling F4, The Petzl EXO and the Halo by Xtreme Rescue. In the end each one as you can imagine has its pros and cons. Thanks for your question brother!
Do you have any experience/thoughts on the PMI Spec hook?
Have you checked out the Sterling hooks? Both gated and non-gated?
Yes - I have the Sterling Lightning GT and provide it in the classes I teach - Very nice hook, but my current favorite is the CMC FlashLite due to it's thin profile, light weight and solid performance.
+DALE G. PEKEL copy that, thanks brother
What about the Talon hook from Fire Innovations?
Is there a reason I can't copy your video for company training? I am using Free FLV Converter.
Now $105 + shipping. Any idea who might carry it cheaper??
Try Bendlin Fire Equipment in Butler Wisconsin - They have a website and gave us a quote of $87.00 for the FlashLite
What escape belt do you use?
At 7:42 I'm trying to learn what the tools are Is that a Halligan? Roughly 10.3lbs and at 30" at the most?
It's a 30 inch ProBar (Halligan) - It weighs around 9-9.5lbs. My personal favorite is the LeatherHead 30" Halligan with the "Stepped" Adz (about 10.5 lbs.) : www.leatherheadtools.com/halligan-bar
DALE G. PEKEL My favorite is a T.N.T Denver Tool axe I think that's how you say it I'm not sure, it looks like a Zombie apocalypse Tool lol.
DALE G. PEKEL doesn't leather head make NY hooks too right.
hello
I write from chile, I'm a volunteer firefighter and fire all of my country and I'm interested in this product as I purchase? is an emergency fastastico anchor.
I want to buy one
Casanova Francisco Leon, Santiago, Chile
too bad my department doesn't allow or issue harnesses that can be used to bail out with.
That does not seem like a good idea. And, do firefighters usually carry a rope with them?
We Carry rope is a pouch on your belt that sits under your turn out coat it stays protected from heat our snags works good
which kind of rope are you using?
Sterling FireTech 32 (7.5mm Technora)
thank you
For some reason all of my comment didn't post. Let me know if you wanna see what I came up with, I can send a pic.
SCOTT
The knot you are making is called a double running knot. There is absolutely no reason to make the tail so small. The fact is, a longer tail will only give you something more to grab on. I have never put so much weight on the knot so I would not simply tie it off like you did. What I WOULD do is tie it off with a longer tail and also tie a half hitch at the end to make sure there is absolutely no way possible to have slippage. You may have to tie off really quickly and if you do it wrong you could end up with a single running knot that is not so strong. A half hitch at the end will eliminate any possibility of slippage. I am no expert, but I know knots enough to know that is the best way to tie it off.
Apperantly it is also called a poachers knot. A barrel knot alone is called a stopper knot. What you are doing is creating a slipped loop so I don't think that would be a propper name for what you are doing. You're right though, there are many names. As far as the longer end, it probably is irrelevant but It's better to be safe than sorry in my opinion. If your hand slips you than have extra rope to grab, if the knot isn't tight enough and slips you than have extra tail to allow it to tighten. I am thinking along the lines of you having to make the knot quickly and exit a building. You're not going to have the time to make a perfect knot and so mistakes could happen.. Thank you for your response.
Not sure if you understand. Escape systems are intended to be pre-rigged; Meaning the knot is prettied on the hook. We have training systems that have hundreds and hundreds of rappels on them and the knot once cinched gets so tight you have to cut it off to replace the rope. It really is the BEST knot to use for this application. This isn't just my opinion - Consult some of the top rope rescue instructors from CMC (the same company that makes the Anchor Hook) and they will tell you the same thing. In the end if you prefer to use a different knot in your setup that's up to you.