...and there it is! Fantastic work mate. You're not wrong, this vid will definitely give me the heads up on the installation of my bar, very helpful and again, thank you.
Cheers Chris. It was definitely the part I was sweating. In the end there was more flexibility here to get it a bit off and still make it work. Thanks for watching and commenting
Couple of suggestions, if I may. (1) Good idea to use split tubing over the positive cable. If that sucker wears through you've got no "protection" (ie: fuse etc). (2) That isolation switch isn't going to cut the mustard for the amps that the winch will draw. Suggestion here is to take the POS cable directly to the battery and if you want an in-cab isolation set-up, use the small gauge NEG wire that is part of the solenoid pack. To do that, run a speaker cable pair from the switch in the cab, down to the winch control box....one wire goes to the original NEG mounting point and the other one goes to the wire itself. This is the best way of being able to isolate the winch without compromising the HIGH AMP cabling.
cheers Bill, I don't recall the rating off the top of my head but it was supplied from Runva as part of the kit. As was the extension cable to go from the switch to the battery. I do know that I checked out the specs of the winch at full load vs the rating of the switch and from a numbers on paper perspective it was sufficient. I will be doing the isolation in the cab though, exactly like you have outlined. I'm already getting sick of having to lift the bonnet to engage the switch to use the winch. I'm just running out of space in the cab for places to put things :( Plus I keep misplacing the keys for the bloody thing. In a perfect world ..............
@@DENMONKEY hahaha, yes mate I know what you mean about lack of space for extra switches. My Silverado has NO blank switch spaces from the factory, so I've had to improvise big time with all my extra switches. As for losing keys...I keep one hidden on the vehicle for just such occasions. Happy 4 wheeling champ.
agreed. some of the modern 4wds are more car like and less functional for what we use them for...well some of us. I don't use it to pick up kids at school. With regards keys, i was referring to the key for the isolator. theyre cheap enough though. I might take your advice though and stick a car key somewhere on the vehicle. It would be a bit crap being out bush on your own and locking the keys in it. cheers Mate
Hi DenMonkey, Awesome instruction video! Were you able to fit the winch post bullbar install, or does it have to be premounted on the bullbar prior to install?
Hey Tom, I mounted it into the bar before putting the bar on but I think there is plenty of room to do it after the fact. It will be a little tight to work on but the winch itself should fit no problem
Enjoyed watching this on the way to work. Incidentally I saw a Paj this morning with bar and that little piece of remaining bumper around the head light was a black moulding that appears to have been supplied with the bar, making the whole cutting/trimming process obsolete. Much easier but would look worse with a white car like yours. Question on the light bar, can you have them up there? I wanted to do the same but the fun police say no to anything above bonnet line here in WA.
funnily enough we discussed this exact thing during the install. Why don't they offer the bumper bits already cut down. Although I guess they'd have to go through the car manufacturers which would probably be costly. We figured if they came in white you could always paint them. I guess, since you already have that part and wont be using it anyway................ light bar ? good question. I posted a few pics on my FB page and it prompted a few comments, with varied opinion with each thinking they were right on what is or is not legal in NSW. I was able to find stuff on all other states but NSW. Seems WA is one of the toughest and I'm guessing one where they are the most useful. Anyway, I have brackets on their way to swing it under the top bar, so I can install my ham radio antennas up on top where it is now. who knows who makes these bloody laws.
DENMONKEY oh don’t get me started on the nanny laws in WA. I think the reason you can’t have anything above bonnet line is for the perspective of pedestrian impact. Good luck if you have a bull bar or even still with anything given the typical impact speeds. Good vid as usual. Pitty about those bloody indicators eh? Bit how ya goin for ARB.
That was my basic understanding too re the pedestrian. I remember those old Mercedes emblems on tops of the bonnets and I thought things like that were the reason for the change. I do vaguely recall they had a spring in them though to lay back in case of an impact. Yeah, if they make it over the bar then good luck to them. not happy at all with those indicators following the way they want you to install them. That said, I could probably just use a long bolt with a washer on the back to do the job. Some things like that give ya the poops, because there is no way they don't know how rubbish they are, yet still went ahead with it. That tells me it's a conscious decision to screw their customers.
...and there it is! Fantastic work mate. You're not wrong, this vid will definitely give me the heads up on the installation of my bar, very helpful and again, thank you.
too easy mate, welcome
If it falls off, I'll let you know to have it installed at the shop instead :)
Top job. Soo glad I didn't need to cut for my NM. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Chris. It was definitely the part I was sweating. In the end there was more flexibility here to get it a bit off and still make it work. Thanks for watching and commenting
Couple of suggestions, if I may. (1) Good idea to use split tubing over the positive cable. If that sucker wears through you've got no "protection" (ie: fuse etc). (2) That isolation switch isn't going to cut the mustard for the amps that the winch will draw. Suggestion here is to take the POS cable directly to the battery and if you want an in-cab isolation set-up, use the small gauge NEG wire that is part of the solenoid pack. To do that, run a speaker cable pair from the switch in the cab, down to the winch control box....one wire goes to the original NEG mounting point and the other one goes to the wire itself. This is the best way of being able to isolate the winch without compromising the HIGH AMP cabling.
cheers Bill,
I don't recall the rating off the top of my head but it was supplied from Runva as part of the kit.
As was the extension cable to go from the switch to the battery.
I do know that I checked out the specs of the winch at full load vs the rating of the switch and from a numbers on paper perspective it was sufficient.
I will be doing the isolation in the cab though, exactly like you have outlined.
I'm already getting sick of having to lift the bonnet to engage the switch to use the winch.
I'm just running out of space in the cab for places to put things :(
Plus I keep misplacing the keys for the bloody thing.
In a perfect world ..............
@@DENMONKEY hahaha, yes mate I know what you mean about lack of space for extra switches. My Silverado has NO blank switch spaces from the factory, so I've had to improvise big time with all my extra switches. As for losing keys...I keep one hidden on the vehicle for just such occasions. Happy 4 wheeling champ.
agreed. some of the modern 4wds are more car like and less functional for what we use them for...well some of us. I don't use it to pick up kids at school.
With regards keys, i was referring to the key for the isolator. theyre cheap enough though.
I might take your advice though and stick a car key somewhere on the vehicle. It would be a bit crap being out bush on your own and locking the keys in it.
cheers Mate
Hi DenMonkey, Awesome instruction video! Were you able to fit the winch post bullbar install, or does it have to be premounted on the bullbar prior to install?
Hey Tom, I mounted it into the bar before putting the bar on but I think there is plenty of room to do it after the fact. It will be a little tight to work on but the winch itself should fit no problem
Enjoyed watching this on the way to work. Incidentally I saw a Paj this morning with bar and that little piece of remaining bumper around the head light was a black moulding that appears to have been supplied with the bar, making the whole cutting/trimming process obsolete. Much easier but would look worse with a white car like yours. Question on the light bar, can you have them up there? I wanted to do the same but the fun police say no to anything above bonnet line here in WA.
funnily enough we discussed this exact thing during the install. Why don't they offer the bumper bits already cut down. Although I guess they'd have to go through the car manufacturers which would probably be costly.
We figured if they came in white you could always paint them.
I guess, since you already have that part and wont be using it anyway................
light bar ? good question. I posted a few pics on my FB page and it prompted a few comments, with varied opinion with each thinking they were right on what is or is not legal in NSW. I was able to find stuff on all other states but NSW. Seems WA is one of the toughest and I'm guessing one where they are the most useful.
Anyway, I have brackets on their way to swing it under the top bar, so I can install my ham radio antennas up on top where it is now.
who knows who makes these bloody laws.
DENMONKEY oh don’t get me started on the nanny laws in WA. I think the reason you can’t have anything above bonnet line is for the perspective of pedestrian impact. Good luck if you have a bull bar or even still with anything given the typical impact speeds. Good vid as usual. Pitty about those bloody indicators eh? Bit how ya goin for ARB.
That was my basic understanding too re the pedestrian. I remember those old Mercedes emblems on tops of the bonnets and I thought things like that were the reason for the change. I do vaguely recall they had a spring in them though to lay back in case of an impact. Yeah, if they make it over the bar then good luck to them.
not happy at all with those indicators following the way they want you to install them. That said, I could probably just use a long bolt with a washer on the back to do the job.
Some things like that give ya the poops, because there is no way they don't know how rubbish they are, yet still went ahead with it.
That tells me it's a conscious decision to screw their customers.
Thought these were called the deluxe bar? Black bar work on white looks better than colour matching imo.
there is a deluxe bar, its basically the same but has fog lights in the lower. this one is the base version (commercial)
Hello i am from INDIA... what is the cost of front bumper guard ARB