I always release the pressure of the remaining water after the unit is powered off and I also run water through the system with the unit off before I start a wash to get any access air out of the system. Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much for this, seriously! I don’t think I would have thought about releasing the pressure with the unit off on my own. I already do the water through the system thing because my spigot is so far away from where I set up my pressure washer. I’m definitely going to start doing this. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment! I think you saved me from breaking another pressure washer.
I was thinking about doing that vary same thing by getting the remaining water out after the Active when off. I get the air out of the lines in the beginning. Thought about doing it at the end. I contacted Adams, they said you didnt have to do anything besides unplug the garden hose as long as your not storing the Active in the cold. But still think it would be a good idea to get the water out. Thats why i thought it would be good to power off the Active before doing so. I was following the instructions and heard the high pitched nose and was thinking it is tough on the Active. Thank you @driveway detailer for making this video and helping calm some fears. LOVE MY ACTIVE I also was thinking about changing the orfus to 1.1. Glad i didn't and watched your video. Do or anyone have advice on how long your garden hose should be? I notice some air in the line on my 25 ft hose. I dont know if it is water trying to be pulled thru the house and not enough water or not. I bought a jumper hose thinking this might be a good way of eliminating that. Anyone have any thoughts?
I have a 50ft garden hose. I haven’t noticed any issues with air in the lines. Someone commented on quick connects on the inlet letting air in the lines. I’ll have to pay attention over the next few weeks to see if I notice any performance issues.
@thedrivewaydetailer okay that's nice to know. I also was thinking from the comment above that I have a cheap garden hose that kinks. I think with that jumper hose it will help with not having a kink.
Registering the unit was the first thing I did. One of the major differences was the serial number on a sticker on the top of the unit. I haven’t really noticed a difference in pressure, but I can tell the unit runs more smoothly.
I also broke an Active 2.0, and a CAT (same company) The culprit with these two was a leak in my garden hose reel for water inlet. It also had two elbows, 100ft hose of poor quality that i discovered a kink in right where it connects to the (cheap) hose reel with plastic fittings. so dumb. I spent some time educating on water inlet requirements. This is all in the back of my sedan btw, the trunk. Hence the complicated water inlet system. I read some forums and articles but mainly chat GPT was most helpful in helping me understand water inlet requirements. Very important and not talked about enough in the mobile industry i think. Worth a chat with your ai. There's a formula to follow for your particular specs on your setup to ensure your unit is getting the water it needs. Hope this helps somebody. Going forward I think I am just nixing the whole fancy hose reel for water inlet and just rocking a loose hose with one quick connect. too many variables to worry about with a reel, elbows, connectors, potential for leaks is too worrisome for me for now. Best of luck you guys. I probably will be buying another active, not sure yet.
5:37 Not sure why Active recommends to disconnect the hose for this part. I close the supply valve to my garden hose, with it still connected to the unit which is also still powered on, and then I depress the short gun trigger while keeping a finger on the power button of the pressure washer. The pressure washer will operate as normal for a duration of time as there is still water in the garden hose, but you will feel the vibration and sound ramping up when the supply is insufficient and you immediately hit the power button. Definitely not good for the pump to be in that high pitched whining state as it is trying to cycle air instead of water which can be worsened by cavitation.
Just don’t let water inside the unit. Disconnect everything every time you stop using it. That’s it. This is why they make Shampoo levels, for falks like you guys 😂
thats crazy.. i have had my active for maybe a year now, and had no issues, i have it on a wash cart outside on the elements (i do cover it with a tarp tho), i never disconnect the hoses even tho its on quick releases. i never change the orficies of the cannons because i always thought you did that on the cheaper pressure washers that need help getting GPM or PSI, where the active thats not the issue, i always had it to a 50ft long flexzilla, and occasionally attach another 25ft braided line to extend when needed, and never had an issue, no surging or nothing.. never disconnect the hoses but i do release the pressure when im done by just turning off the machine and then pulling the trigger before i remove the gun... i have brass fitings, but i have only used DI water ( i have a tank on my cart).. anyways, best of luck with your new equipment, no reason to mess with it, just use it s intended.,,
I think my issue was how I released the pressure when I was done using it. Another commenter turns off the unit and then releases the pressure. I’m going to start doing that. I’m sure I won’t have any issues this time around. I should invest in a detail cart. It sounds pretty convenient. Thanks for watching!
I’ve watched a lot of videos about using quick connects on the 2.0 or any pressure washer and they always recommend not using any kind of teflon tape and hand snug every connection. I watched your first video when the 2.0 initially broke. What happened to your warranty claim? It’s good for 2 years for residential use.
I’ve learned that since I got my unit. I thought it was weird that was part of the original shut down instructions. Now I shut down the unit and then release the pressure. It’s been working much better for me. Thanks for watching!
@@thedrivewaydetailer I just got one and I read the instructions and it definitely says to do what you had been doing. Disconnect the water then release pressure. I am going to message active and see if that is correct because it does not make sense
@@thedrivewaydetailer They just replied (they have great customer service it seems). This is what they said - "It is definitely recommended to ensure that there is no water or pressure remaining in the pump when shutting down and storing. You would only need to run the motor for a few seconds, and it is completely safe to do so" So I dunno its either water remains in the system or you run the motor almost dry.
You don't use teflon tape on either GHT or M22 threads.... the leaks you probably have are either self created by using the teflon tape or over torquing and ruining the GHT washer
Someone else made a similar comment recently. I didn’t know m22 fittings didn’t need teflon tape. I’ll have to take the teflon tape off and try again. Thanks for watching!
@@thedrivewaydetailer Pretty simple way to know is if there's already something there for sealing like an o ring or a washer then that is what will be preventing leaks, they also don't need to be more than hand tight. However if it is just pipe on pipe then sealant or teflon could be helpful, as it helps you tighten deeper by reducing friction but also filling gaps from the imperfect threads
@@thedrivewaydetailer all you need to do is hand tighten those quick connects. any adapters that has an O ring, no tape and only hand tight. maybe tad bit with wrench on male connect since my hands were slippery. I think your 1.1 orifice was the issue in the long run. enjoy
had that unit i sold it as its not worth it for me just got a 1500 psi industrial electric unit from NorthStar on a cart with auto stop for 979$ has a replacable servicable pump and motor. getting 1150 psi at 2.3 gom with a 5.0 orifice. 💪 this thing will last for years so it will pay for itself soon.
That’s awesome for you. That sounds like a pretty great set up. The performance on the unit sounds outstanding. One day I’d like to upgrade to something a little heavier duty with replaceable parts. It just wasn’t in the budget this time.
I always release the pressure of the remaining water after the unit is powered off and I also run water through the system with the unit off before I start a wash to get any access air out of the system. Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much for this, seriously! I don’t think I would have thought about releasing the pressure with the unit off on my own. I already do the water through the system thing because my spigot is so far away from where I set up my pressure washer. I’m definitely going to start doing this.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment! I think you saved me from breaking another pressure washer.
So helpful. Just got my Active 2.0 and waiting on 50’ steel braided hose from Amazon.
I was thinking about doing that vary same thing by getting the remaining water out after the Active when off. I get the air out of the lines in the beginning. Thought about doing it at the end. I contacted Adams, they said you didnt have to do anything besides unplug the garden hose as long as your not storing the Active in the cold. But still think it would be a good idea to get the water out. Thats why i thought it would be good to power off the Active before doing so. I was following the instructions and heard the high pitched nose and was thinking it is tough on the Active. Thank you @driveway detailer for making this video and helping calm some fears. LOVE MY ACTIVE
I also was thinking about changing the orfus to 1.1. Glad i didn't and watched your video. Do or anyone have advice on how long your garden hose should be? I notice some air in the line on my 25 ft hose. I dont know if it is water trying to be pulled thru the house and not enough water or not. I bought a jumper hose thinking this might be a good way of eliminating that. Anyone have any thoughts?
I have a 50ft garden hose. I haven’t noticed any issues with air in the lines. Someone commented on quick connects on the inlet letting air in the lines. I’ll have to pay attention over the next few weeks to see if I notice any performance issues.
@thedrivewaydetailer okay that's nice to know. I also was thinking from the comment above that I have a cheap garden hose that kinks. I think with that jumper hose it will help with not having a kink.
Congrats on a new unit make sure you register it. That last step is definitely risky have you noticed more pressure with the new steel braided hoses.
Registering the unit was the first thing I did. One of the major differences was the serial number on a sticker on the top of the unit. I haven’t really noticed a difference in pressure, but I can tell the unit runs more smoothly.
I also broke an Active 2.0, and a CAT (same company) The culprit with these two was a leak in my garden hose reel for water inlet. It also had two elbows, 100ft hose of poor quality that i discovered a kink in right where it connects to the (cheap) hose reel with plastic fittings. so dumb. I spent some time educating on water inlet requirements. This is all in the back of my sedan btw, the trunk. Hence the complicated water inlet system. I read some forums and articles but mainly chat GPT was most helpful in helping me understand water inlet requirements. Very important and not talked about enough in the mobile industry i think. Worth a chat with your ai. There's a formula to follow for your particular specs on your setup to ensure your unit is getting the water it needs. Hope this helps somebody. Going forward I think I am just nixing the whole fancy hose reel for water inlet and just rocking a loose hose with one quick connect. too many variables to worry about with a reel, elbows, connectors, potential for leaks is too worrisome for me for now. Best of luck you guys. I probably will be buying another active, not sure yet.
5:37 Not sure why Active recommends to disconnect the hose for this part. I close the supply valve to my garden hose, with it still connected to the unit which is also still powered on, and then I depress the short gun trigger while keeping a finger on the power button of the pressure washer. The pressure washer will operate as normal for a duration of time as there is still water in the garden hose, but you will feel the vibration and sound ramping up when the supply is insufficient and you immediately hit the power button. Definitely not good for the pump to be in that high pitched whining state as it is trying to cycle air instead of water which can be worsened by cavitation.
Just don’t let water inside the unit. Disconnect everything every time you stop using it. That’s it.
This is why they make Shampoo levels, for falks like you guys 😂
thats crazy.. i have had my active for maybe a year now, and had no issues, i have it on a wash cart outside on the elements (i do cover it with a tarp tho), i never disconnect the hoses even tho its on quick releases. i never change the orficies of the cannons because i always thought you did that on the cheaper pressure washers that need help getting GPM or PSI, where the active thats not the issue, i always had it to a 50ft long flexzilla, and occasionally attach another 25ft braided line to extend when needed, and never had an issue, no surging or nothing.. never disconnect the hoses but i do release the pressure when im done by just turning off the machine and then pulling the trigger before i remove the gun... i have brass fitings, but i have only used DI water ( i have a tank on my cart).. anyways, best of luck with your new equipment, no reason to mess with it, just use it s intended.,,
I think my issue was how I released the pressure when I was done using it. Another commenter turns off the unit and then releases the pressure. I’m going to start doing that. I’m sure I won’t have any issues this time around. I should invest in a detail cart. It sounds pretty convenient.
Thanks for watching!
I’ve watched a lot of videos about using quick connects on the 2.0 or any pressure washer and they always recommend not using any kind of teflon tape and hand snug every connection. I watched your first video when the 2.0 initially broke. What happened to your warranty claim? It’s good for 2 years for residential use.
They didn’t honor the claim because I didn’t have the model number/ serial number of the unit. I wasn’t too upset about it because I was expecting it.
I’ve heard quick connects to the inlet makes way for air to enter resulting in unwanted air in the pump…
I removed the quick connect on mine and just screwed it in manually and noticed improvement
I haven’t heard that. Maybe I’ll try taking mine off and see if the performance improves.
Thanks for watching!
not sure on that, maybe person with those issues had a bad qc.. had mine with one for about a year and never surged..
Did Active help with the cost replacement?
No. They couldn’t do anything because I didn’t have the serial number.
@@thedrivewaydetailer Hopefully this one will be trouble-free for you. Thanks
On your house line you don't need Teflon tape. It is an m22 fitting. Not required
Good to know. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching!
Never run the pump while it’s dry.
Unfortunately I learned that the hard way.
Your last unit burned up because you run it dry every time you used it. Never disconnect the water unless the power is off
I’ve learned that since I got my unit. I thought it was weird that was part of the original shut down instructions. Now I shut down the unit and then release the pressure. It’s been working much better for me.
Thanks for watching!
@@thedrivewaydetailer I just got one and I read the instructions and it definitely says to do what you had been doing. Disconnect the water then release pressure. I am going to message active and see if that is correct because it does not make sense
I’d be interested to know what their response is. Thanks for watching!
@@thedrivewaydetailer They just replied (they have great customer service it seems). This is what they said -
"It is definitely recommended to ensure that there is no water or pressure remaining in the pump when shutting down and storing. You would only need to run the motor for a few seconds, and it is completely safe to do so"
So I dunno its either water remains in the system or you run the motor almost dry.
You don't use teflon tape on either GHT or M22 threads.... the leaks you probably have are either self created by using the teflon tape or over torquing and ruining the GHT washer
Someone else made a similar comment recently. I didn’t know m22 fittings didn’t need teflon tape. I’ll have to take the teflon tape off and try again.
Thanks for watching!
@@thedrivewaydetailer Pretty simple way to know is if there's already something there for sealing like an o ring or a washer then that is what will be preventing leaks, they also don't need to be more than hand tight. However if it is just pipe on pipe then sealant or teflon could be helpful, as it helps you tighten deeper by reducing friction but also filling gaps from the imperfect threads
@@thedrivewaydetailer all you need to do is hand tighten those quick connects. any adapters that has an O ring, no tape and only hand tight. maybe tad bit with wrench on male connect since my hands were slippery. I think your 1.1 orifice was the issue in the long run. enjoy
had that unit i sold it as its not worth it for me
just got a 1500 psi industrial electric unit from NorthStar on a cart with auto stop for 979$ has a replacable servicable pump and motor. getting 1150 psi at 2.3 gom with a 5.0 orifice. 💪 this thing will last for years so it will pay for itself soon.
That’s awesome for you. That sounds like a pretty great set up. The performance on the unit sounds outstanding. One day I’d like to upgrade to something a little heavier duty with replaceable parts. It just wasn’t in the budget this time.