Just bought your jig for the S1 that you showed today. I have been thinking about making my own jig for it. My S1 is arriving “tomorrow” 😅 I think using my iPad will be lots of fun and convenient too. Thanks for the great video and how-to as always 😊
I bought the jig system on Etsy. I feel like xcs might have funked up how you had it setup. It does work pretty well. One thing I'll note, I was able to get it work with just the single 1/8 basswood sheet and the honeycomb(with it slid all the way forward so the front lip is past the jig). I do kinda want to make a larger one on the CNC to have use of the whole working area. One thing I did with my jigs I didn't hear you mention, for my round coasters, I did a cut for the 4ish inch slate coasters then did a 3in circle for my cork ones inside that one. So I didn't need to sacrifice a extra sheet but I'm able to use one jig for 2 different products
Have you had any issues with your engravings being off-location on your second (and subsequent) batches? Also, have you noticed that the crosshair indicator in XCS does not return to where it is in the bed after running a job, but a few mm off? Trying to run a batch now and can *not* get what’s on the screen to match what’s being engraved on the bed. If I set a design 2mm from the edge of a product in XCS, it engraves 3 or 4mm from where I want it to. Any suggestions/help? I’ve reached out to xTool, but they don’t seem to understand the question
I haven't noticed that with my machine. My crosshair seems to be dead on. Maybe the machine has lost a couple of steps. I am not that familiar with the mechanics of how they have it registering but belt tension would be my guess if it was an open gantry.
@@TheClackShack Working on the S1, unfortunately. I’m not ruling myself out of the equation, though. Still getting used to the machine, XCS, and Lightburn. Thank you for the response, sir!
@@TheClackShack Quick update: I’ve learned that between batches, I can send the laser home in the Framing drop down menu and that gives me much more consistent results. I just do it once between batches and send it on its way again
I bought everything to make the jig system and ordered your file yesterday. I cannot wait to get started because until now, I have only used the F1 so making multiples was out of the question for larger items. You mentioned that you are new to XCS. I have only used XCS so, since you have been using these machines much longer than I, my question is which do you like better, XCS or Lightburn? I would rather completely master one program.
@@TheClackShack Thank you so much for the quick reply since I know you are always super busy. I retired as of Monday, so I'm gathering tools so I can get started full time with the S1 and F1. I use Affinity for designing. Do you have an apple watch band jig for this system? If so, I would like to purchase. I noticed you were not using the new XCS version 2.0. I have both versions but heard some negative reviews concerning 2.0 and the F1 so I was wondering if you have tried it.
Great video with a great way to batch projects. Have you tried the camera setup with the S1? This is where you set calibration circles on the base, and just locate your batched items in any orientation, take a picture with your cell phone, and use you one template picture and it duplicates it to the other items. I have tried this with meatball picks and it works great!
So, when attempting to make your own jig, what should the length and width of the actual hole be? For example, I just bought some 12in x 12in mirrors to practice with my S1. If I wanted to create a jig, should the hole be exactly 12in? or slightly bigger to allow it to fit?
Could all this be done on 1/4" MDF? I like it because it's dead flat usually. Just bought the file and would like to get it cut out for my on the way riser kit.
super cool video thank you, im super new to engraving and my apologies for the noob question, what size is the wood (W/H) you have inside the S1? i dont have a wood cutter so i want to make sure i get the correct size to fit the S1 bed when i go to get it cut at Home Depot, thank you and again awesome video
Hello, thank you again for the video, I purchased the jig file. But have one question as I probably missed something, the 1st layer the base how did you cut it out with the screw hole? as it looks like it's in the gray area of the bed
Howdy! Fellow Alabamian here....I just purchased my S1 and I purchased your jig off of Etsy (so excited for the endless possibilities!) . I just set up my machine last night. I have to admit that I am very intimitated by this machine!! I just had one question (and I apologize if it is a dumb one) but when you are using the jig do you set up the crosshairs to the top of the item you are engraving or to the top of the jig?
@@TheClackShack My apologies but I am not sure what you mean. Are you able to break it down in simple terms? Thank you for your help and I love watching your videos. 😊
I have been thinking about a similar way to index. My idea was to score a crosshair into the jig and use that as the index point when the laser position shows in XCS and with the jig template loaded. Just line up the cross hairs in XCS and in the machine, good to go, so long as its square(ish) of course.
@@TheClackShack for sure. Your way at least prevents movement. Additionally I was thinking, if you had the riser, you could just make your own tray that would slide in, and that could be the jig holder, and replace the provided tray.
@@TheClackShackI was thinking about using the honeycomb panel and a couple of magnets. Just slide the jig into one corner and then use a couple of magnets to secure it. Am I missing something important? 🤔
I just got my S1 set up. I have never used a laser engraver before or used this type of software so I have a lot to learn. I take it you have to use all the same thickness targets as the thickness of the material used to make the jig? Is this a correct assumption? I really enjoy your videos and look forward to learning more from you. Thanks for sharing.
Sir, I would like to know the length and width of the material you use for the S1 jig kit. I ordered the file and will be using 5mm thick material. Thanks. Vester Whitmore
I’ll try to get this worded right so you know what I’m asking. Let’s say you’re using your coaster jig today. When done you put everything away, shut down the laser for the night. Then tomorrow you want to do more coasters. So you put the jig in, coasters in the jig, pull up the file. Does the laser know where the jig is when reading the file or do you have to align it, frame it, focus it. Basically tell the laser where the jig is or does it remember where when it reads the file. Hope that makes sense.
Just bought and downloaded it for my XTool S1 with the riser. Well worth what I paid to save me time and get right to work on making projects using the jig. Thank you for putting in all the work to get this jig system done. Can't wait to get the jig files cut out and test it out. I am sure it will work great. If I may ask, when you show the jig file in XCS (at 8:47 into the video) it looks like it's outside of the working area at the bottom by about .75 or so. Does XCS not warn you about that? I know I get a warning that I am outside the working area.
I had to go all the way to the front to use it for indexing. If you go all the was down it will let you know. The front length was needed to make it sturdy and keep it square
I’m so confused. Are you using relative coordinates or something? Your image looks like it is on the right side of the bed instead of the middle where the jig is located
One major benefit you mentioned was fmusing the center area for faster engraving but you didnt show that. I just wonder because i havent run into any errors at the edges of the work area which tells me I'm running to slow lol
@@TheClackShack yah I jacked my speeds up and it seems at around 350 or so the pieces need to be about 4" from the edge. I didn't have time to fiddle but it wouldn't take much to find both true boundaries I imagine.
I purchased the jig and cut it all out but am confused. The pieces when placed together do. not leave a lip around the edge on the final piece for something to sit on. I love the design and am sure I did something wrong. I cut the three pieces, two with the notches and one without.
Thank you. I actually took the third layer and made the inside square a 1/8 in smaller to get the lip now it fits perfect! I can’t thank you enough for this jig for my S1! So excited to give it a try!
Just run the auto focus. lol. The depth does not make any difference after that. The jig is great, though. Gives me ideas for making an adjustable jig. It would be interesting to see a comparison between it running an engrave job at high speed on the jig versus running more items at a time at the speed it can run closer to the left. Do you actually get more engraves per hour? Is there a maximum distance you can go to the right and still have it engrave at top speed? It is a good thing the machine won't slam the laser head into the side of the case. rofl.
Put something on the edge and you will get a pop up telling you the software is going to adjust the speed. I find small batches or big batches, run time is same or slower if speed is compromised.
Thanks Clack for helping us S1 owners. Any little help I can get appreciate it!
Very welcome. Glad you like it
This is excellent. Thank you for not just selling your product but teaching us how to help ourselves. BRAVO
I bought your jig to get me started. it was well worth the $5. I don't know why there were negative reviews. You are an enabler
Thanks.. enjoy
This looks like you have a winner, Great Job I put one in my cart and will order still waiting on my
xTool S1 40watt to arrive this week.
Thanks.. It works well for me.
Love learning about the XCS! I just learned that I can run XCS on my iPad now. I can also cut via wireless!
Cool
This helped a bunch. Thanks for all you do!
Glad to hear it!
Just bought your jig for the S1 that you showed today. I have been thinking about making my own jig for it. My S1 is arriving “tomorrow” 😅
I think using my iPad will be lots of fun and convenient too. Thanks for the great video and how-to as always 😊
Have fun...
I bought the jig system on Etsy. I feel like xcs might have funked up how you had it setup. It does work pretty well. One thing I'll note, I was able to get it work with just the single 1/8 basswood sheet and the honeycomb(with it slid all the way forward so the front lip is past the jig). I do kinda want to make a larger one on the CNC to have use of the whole working area. One thing I did with my jigs I didn't hear you mention, for my round coasters, I did a cut for the 4ish inch slate coasters then did a 3in circle for my cork ones inside that one. So I didn't need to sacrifice a extra sheet but I'm able to use one jig for 2 different products
Yes, some folks don't get it and insist on a round one.
Have you had any issues with your engravings being off-location on your second (and subsequent) batches? Also, have you noticed that the crosshair indicator in XCS does not return to where it is in the bed after running a job, but a few mm off? Trying to run a batch now and can *not* get what’s on the screen to match what’s being engraved on the bed. If I set a design 2mm from the edge of a product in XCS, it engraves 3 or 4mm from where I want it to. Any suggestions/help? I’ve reached out to xTool, but they don’t seem to understand the question
I haven't noticed that with my machine. My crosshair seems to be dead on. Maybe the machine has lost a couple of steps. I am not that familiar with the mechanics of how they have it registering but belt tension would be my guess if it was an open gantry.
@@TheClackShack Working on the S1, unfortunately. I’m not ruling myself out of the equation, though. Still getting used to the machine, XCS, and Lightburn. Thank you for the response, sir!
@@TheClackShack Quick update: I’ve learned that between batches, I can send the laser home in the Framing drop down menu and that gives me much more consistent results. I just do it once between batches and send it on its way again
I bought everything to make the jig system and ordered your file yesterday. I cannot wait to get started because until now, I have only used the F1 so making multiples was out of the question for larger items. You mentioned that you are new to XCS. I have only used XCS so, since you have been using these machines much longer than I, my question is which do you like better, XCS or Lightburn? I would rather completely master one program.
Lightburn is better for file design, XCS is easier at running the machine
I prefer designing files in lightburn. The XTool machines are controlled better with xcs. The wireless control in xcs works great.
@@TheClackShack Thank you so much for the quick reply since I know you are always super busy. I retired as of Monday, so I'm gathering tools so I can get started full time with the S1 and F1. I use Affinity for designing. Do you have an apple watch band jig for this system? If so, I would like to purchase. I noticed you were not using the new XCS version 2.0. I have both versions but heard some negative reviews concerning 2.0 and the F1 so I was wondering if you have tried it.
thank you
You're welcome
Great video with a great way to batch projects. Have you tried the camera setup with the S1? This is where you set calibration circles on the base, and just locate your batched items in any orientation, take a picture with your cell phone, and use you one template picture and it duplicates it to the other items. I have tried this with meatball picks and it works great!
No, that is way more complex than I care to devote time to. I just use jigs.
So, when attempting to make your own jig, what should the length and width of the actual hole be? For example, I just bought some 12in x 12in mirrors to practice with my S1. If I wanted to create a jig, should the hole be exactly 12in? or slightly bigger to allow it to fit?
Tight enough to keep movement down. The closer the more accurate.
Just got your jig kit. I'm a little confused as to where you glue the Squaring insert.
To one of the jig panels. That makes it removable
Could all this be done on 1/4" MDF? I like it because it's dead flat usually. Just bought the file and would like to get it cut out for my on the way riser kit.
It could. Be careful not to break out the small hole for the screw
super cool video thank you, im super new to engraving and my apologies for the noob question, what size is the wood (W/H) you have inside the S1? i dont have a wood cutter so i want to make sure i get the correct size to fit the S1 bed when i go to get it cut at Home Depot, thank you and again awesome video
I want to say it is 20x13
Hello, thank you again for the video, I purchased the jig file. But have one question as I probably missed something, the 1st layer the base how did you cut it out with the screw hole? as it looks like it's in the gray area of the bed
The file is cut in the work area. Once played, it isn’t
@@TheClackShack Thank you
What’s the Red Cross hair top left of the workspace? I am new to XCS too. First use today with D1 as I purchased the P2 and need to learn it
The location of the laser head. It is a feature of the S1.
Howdy! Fellow Alabamian here....I just purchased my S1 and I purchased your jig off of Etsy (so excited for the endless possibilities!) . I just set up my machine last night. I have to admit that I am very intimitated by this machine!! I just had one question (and I apologize if it is a dumb one) but when you are using the jig do you set up the crosshairs to the top of the item you are engraving or to the top of the jig?
Home machine and work from absolute coordinates. Set focus on the item
@@TheClackShack My apologies but I am not sure what you mean. Are you able to break it down in simple terms? Thank you for your help and I love watching your videos. 😊
@@Heather-Richards-2 xTool S1 jig system- The S1 just got even better
th-cam.com/video/2dn57nYr8NI/w-d-xo.html
I have been thinking about a similar way to index. My idea was to score a crosshair into the jig and use that as the index point when the laser position shows in XCS and with the jig template loaded. Just line up the cross hairs in XCS and in the machine, good to go, so long as its square(ish) of course.
There are other ways but this was the best I could find without mods to the machine.
@@TheClackShack for sure. Your way at least prevents movement. Additionally I was thinking, if you had the riser, you could just make your own tray that would slide in, and that could be the jig holder, and replace the provided tray.
Still no good way to secure it without mods. @@ianmccaul1797
@@TheClackShackI was thinking about using the honeycomb panel and a couple of magnets. Just slide the jig into one corner and then use a couple of magnets to secure it. Am I missing something important? 🤔
As long as you always place it in the same spot and don't run enough power to slide it, it could work.@@philipershler420
What material do you use for the jig as after i cut it does seem like everything is out of line.
I use 4.5 mm luan, Unless you have machine issues or moved something, it should be correct. It is not material specific.
I just got my S1 set up. I have never used a laser engraver before or used this type of software so I have a lot to learn. I take it you have to use all the same thickness targets as the thickness of the material used to make the jig? Is this a correct assumption? I really enjoy your videos and look forward to learning more from you. Thanks for sharing.
Not really a requirement, the jig just holds things still.
Sir, I would like to know the length and width of the material you use for the S1 jig kit. I ordered the file and will be using 5mm thick material. Thanks. Vester Whitmore
12x20
Thank you!!!!
I’ll try to get this worded right so you know what I’m asking. Let’s say you’re using your coaster jig today. When done you put everything away, shut down the laser for the night. Then tomorrow you want to do more coasters. So you put the jig in, coasters in the jig, pull up the file. Does the laser know where the jig is when reading the file or do you have to align it, frame it, focus it. Basically tell the laser where the jig is or does it remember where when it reads the file. Hope that makes sense.
You save the file when it’s built and then reopen it to use again. You will still have to focus. Each jig panel has to have a save file for it
Just bought and downloaded it for my XTool S1 with the riser. Well worth what I paid to save me time and get right to work on making projects using the jig. Thank you for putting in all the work to get this jig system done. Can't wait to get the jig files cut out and test it out. I am sure it will work great. If I may ask, when you show the jig file in XCS (at 8:47 into the video) it looks like it's outside of the working area at the bottom by about .75 or so. Does XCS not warn you about that? I know I get a warning that I am outside the working area.
I had to go all the way to the front to use it for indexing. If you go all the was down it will let you know. The front length was needed to make it sturdy and keep it square
I’m so confused. Are you using relative coordinates or something? Your image looks like it is on the right side of the bed instead of the middle where the jig is located
Er left
Just XCS with absolute
What size wood did you use for this jig? As well as the thickness?
12x20 is the workspace, 4 to 5 mm
@@TheClackShack thank you.. Where do you get yours from or do you have a recommendation
@@tiffmarkley local hardware store
One major benefit you mentioned was fmusing the center area for faster engraving but you didnt show that. I just wonder because i havent run into any errors at the edges of the work area which tells me I'm running to slow lol
I got it twice engraving the mirrors until I moved it to the center. I am running the newest version of XCS and it may not be public yet.
@@TheClackShack yah I jacked my speeds up and it seems at around 350 or so the pieces need to be about 4" from the edge. I didn't have time to fiddle but it wouldn't take much to find both true boundaries I imagine.
I purchased the jig and cut it all out but am confused. The pieces when placed together do. not leave a lip around the edge on the final piece for something to sit on. I love the design and am sure I did something wrong. I cut the three pieces, two with the notches and one without.
Yes, You do not have the pieces correct if that is the case. The part marked 3rd layer should be the third piece. The center has rounded corners.
Thank you. I actually took the third layer and made the inside square a 1/8 in smaller to get the lip now it fits perfect! I can’t thank you enough for this jig for my S1! So excited to give it a try!
I just installed my riser and I must’ve done something wrong because I don’t have a screw hole anywhere near the hole in the jig.
Is yours a European machine? I have found that they made it different
I’m in Georgia
Just run the auto focus. lol. The depth does not make any difference after that. The jig is great, though. Gives me ideas for making an adjustable jig.
It would be interesting to see a comparison between it running an engrave job at high speed on the jig versus running more items at a time at the speed it can run closer to the left. Do you actually get more engraves per hour?
Is there a maximum distance you can go to the right and still have it engrave at top speed? It is a good thing the machine won't slam the laser head into the side of the case. rofl.
Put something on the edge and you will get a pop up telling you the software is going to adjust the speed. I find small batches or big batches, run time is same or slower if speed is compromised.