Word of advice! When you're doing custom projects like this, don't be afraid to fab some things yourself. I went with a very custom exhaust flange for my NA 20b so I had to make my own. I simply cut some 1/8 particle board to finalize my design, and then I took that piece to the local water jet company to scan in and cut my 1/2" flanges. Total cost was $150 back in 2009. I use the same technique to make my own intake flanges so I can build custom intakes. If you gonna reply on outsiders for many parts, then your projects will struggle. Think outside the box. You can do it!
Couldn't agree more. I was thinking about it when he said about how difficult it is to source the flange Let alone buying it I was like "Don't you just have to make a template from cardboard and put it into 3d model or should I say cad? If that's out of your range you can just make the template and go to nearby machine shop, water jet, cnc shop, plasma table, Ecsetra. They can figure it out." My first project was I had to make a custom carb spacer for my uncle old pick up truck. I just make a custom template from cardboard, draw it onto the chunk of steel and cut it with grinder. Yes it will not be the most flat surface to be able to seal that's why I take it to machine shop. $10 bucks for them to deck the flange $5 for the Chunk metal I found on scrape yard. Works like a factory but will rust because it's a steel and factory uses aluminum wich hard to find this day. Same case like him.
@fisshuman And see, that's the beauty of making things yourself. You don't have to WAIT on others. Sure, it may not be the best quality or look the greatest, but when you're experimenting, functionality is what matters 1st. You can redo everything later to make it look pretty. Right now I've taken my engine down and refabing my intake set-up and building 2 versions because I want to see which design performs best. Also researching building myself and engine dyno with a retarder so I can test at home and in secret. 😉
Not afraid of the custom fab. Just irked when a part is listed for sale, and then doesn't come in. If there weren't any out there I'd have one cut by a local shop with a plasma cutter and go from there. I am excited to build a couple different iterations and see what it does!
@@RADPotential Well, let this be a learning lesson. Internet really is scary because it's hard to trust and not trusting something. I mean you continue doing it 3 times. If I were you, I would stop at the first one and make myself a custom flanges. Anyway, it's all good man, as long as you're not stopping the project like other TH-camrs who tried doing the same thing hahahaha.
If that hybrid flange doesn’t work, hit me up and I can draw one up for you that you can use send cut send or another laser cutter to make one cheap or even make a billet one
Personally, I think you’ve got two options… 1. split the Siamese port into two separate pipes. I did this on a peripheral port Renesis engine I built. The custom header I made used a divider that protruded past the face of the flange and into the port. It had a radius shape to ensure it butted up against the internal radius of the centre iron insert. 2. Ditch the Renesis side exhaust ports. Use the custom header flange to block these off and just run the peripheral exhaust ports. If you want to get real tricky, add valves to either the side or peripheral exhaust ports and have these open higher up in the rpm.
Can you further explain blocking off the side ports? Would just sealing it off with the flange be enough or would it be preferable to use something similar to jb weld to seal the port while assembling the engine?
@@jad007cafe7 I wouldn’t recommend using any kind of filler in the side exhaust ports. When making up a custom header flange, use this to cover over and block off the side exhaust ports.
Not sure any of it matters, its going to be chaos anyway. The peripheral exhaust and side exhaust may be from the same rotor, but the opening and closing timing are going to be different. So no single clean pulse anywhere! Going to be some weird resonance all over the rev range... need a lot of maths to work that one out.
Here's a thought. Get a gsl-se exhaust manifold and a renisis exhaust manifold and combine the 2. No need for a custom flange then. Just a thought by the way!
Grind a point in studs, put them in the holes pointing out, poke a piece of paper or wood to use as a template and use said template to cut a flange out of a piece of steel stock. Take your time drilling and use good lube, also take your time shaping the outer edge of the flange.
There is a very good book called Four-Stroke Performance Tuning by A graham bell. Maisteer created a video called How to fix the WORST sounding V12 Exhaust where he covered the exhaust tuning part of the book. i know a rotary is not a four stoke. it does not have stroke however it still applies.
My opinion is that you would need 5 into 1 tubing set up. Then thru a 3 inch exhaust for maximum flow. This is extremely interesting as a hybrid successfully put together could skyrocket these rx8s. Anyway I will shut up now 😂
Heck yeah I've been working down here in Missouri at The Rotary doctor for years it's cool to see the rotary heads Kyle Mohan racing he built one an offer is a custom exhaust flange thought about me and RX8 2 keep up the good work man it's nice to see other people excited about rotaries again
I drove a hybrid the other day and it was so much fun. Felt good. Keep doing what you're doing mate. It's about trying stuff and enjoying the journey!🎉
IMO it makes more sense to use a Turbo with the Bridgeport Hybrid Renesis RX8. use a MASSIVE exhaust housing and the smallest intake compressor that works. try targeting 10 - 20 PSI of boost.
I bought some flanges from a friend who was making them a few years back. They are individual flanges for each port rather than one big flange. That should allow the keg for a bit of movement. I had the choice of having 5 ports or just the 2 peripheral ones, but went for the later for ease of fabrication so the iron/side plates ports are basically just block off plates. Good luck with the build, mine is on the backburner!
Would be a bit more expensive, but you could probably piggyback off of the true dual design of the RacingBeat NA "true dual" exhaust for the FC. Might even be able to use the presilencer from that system.
From memory the shorter header will enhance top end performance thanks to the exhaust waves taking less time to reflect. The longer header is used when you want to reduce reversion at low rpm hence reducing the power losses caused by long duration porting (ie bridge and peripheral ports). So short for racing where you dgaf about low rpm power, Longer for street use.
Single flange seems like a potentially iffy idea given irons vs housings. Splitting it out to individual flanges may work out slightly better. As for the tuning effects of the exhaust... Well, the port timing ruins the thought of merging the peripheral and side ports early. The peripheral ports will be doing the absolute vast majority of exhaust flow, since they open a cool 25deg earlier than the side ports, and open far more rapidly. This means the events of the peripheral (or "primary" exhaust ports) will be the ones with the most possible tuning effect. The newly auxiliary side ports will be more or less just a dull "woosh" of what exhaust remains. Merge them immediately (log?) and pipe it separately. Also gives the ability to cap it and see how much it changes power.
I wonder if you could use an rx8 flange cut the exhaust components out, use a 13b exhaust flange separate the exhaust components and either weld together or use individually. I believe the rx8 centre exhaust flange opening is narrower to achieve the desired volume of exhaust gas for each firing rotor, I would keep this method. 😊
Printing metal parts is tricky, especially when they’re for exhaust components. Laser-sintered metal powder parts tend to have issues with surface finish and porosity. Not to mention cost, whereas a flat steel plate with a few CNC’d holes would be significantly cheaper.
I have a megan racing header and if you get the racing beat engine to header flange you can incorporate it into the renesis header. The racing beat flange is $82.03. You would have to cut it and weld it into the renesis header by cutting the flange to fit your rx7 flanges. The piping you c an figure out once you see the tubing routing of the header. I think that can work for you. Just an idea.
I know i have posted this a few times but... i had a builder who told me about building rx8 blocks for boost, saying all ports are no good. This was backed up by terry from arc who has experience saying the pp exhaust without the side ports will give you gains. But in NA form. The builder said he has had success filling the side ports with molten alloy fro irons. A YTer did this with zinc. Worked well until the zinc failed. Apparently, using material from the irons means it expands and shrinks as per the rest of the housing. You block the port at the end with a plate to seal it up. Curious if it is easier to just fill the ports and do a modified 13b header on it, or this is an evolution of the project, assuming the apex seals nuke like a few on here arw theorising.
Hey man I have been dreaming about doing this a hot minute. Like years. 5 years ago my buddy got an RX8 for 5500$ with little miles well less then 6 months later he hit a deer spilled coolant everywhere got it towed to his house. Well 3 weeks ago 2 days after you posted your vid I got it for 500$. I am super excited to follow along with you and am totally willing to flop data back and forth when it comes to it. ✌️
I’ve seen a picture of a renesis exhaust manifold and a Pp exhaust mani welded together. Not sure how well it worked as they went into witness protection after posting.
Maybe the best option would be to just block the Renesis exhaust ports, at the manifold. Exhaust timing differences between the Renesis exhaust and the PP one are different (talking about the same rotor), weird sxhit will happen there, if you leave both open.
For the length of tube needed I don't think it'll fit or be worth the cost. That dude had a 2 port turbo manifold about 10in runners which would be a $1000+ stainless part. Or a $3000+ inconel part. For a 5-6 port long tube, who knows the cost.
I remember being told the 12A liked 2 pipes going all the way back but the 13B did not. Just a comment to help the algorithm and hopefully another confirmation of what others may have said?
I think you should just build a log style manifold, and then eventually tune the exhaust when you can get more data on the motor. It’d also be cool to see a megaphone utilized on a rotary
Maybe don't go crazy on the first manifold iteration?... Just get the engine running and broken in. At the end of the day it sounds like this is always going to be a wanted and needed part for the Ren-hybrid… when you have proof of concept. Outside of that, this video below looks so promising for a small header, like for an RX8, I've been thinking about doing this for a standard renisis myself if I can get some help; VIDEO: 3D printed 13B custom exhaust manifold: th-cam.com/video/rJtX_xwq_4M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=p4CGtNAAvUID0Scx
I pick up my 8 this week and get it on the track next month. I definitely think a shorty log manifold with a proper tapered merge would have a market…. I’d like to see a proper long tube since the BHR seemed to make power…. But a discussion for another day.
I want to build one of these engines but make a 12a one. Keep the 12a center iron instead of the rx8 one so you don’t combine exhaust pulses so you could run a twin screw turbo. Would be a fun little engine
Collect the two peripheral ports at short tube length (25"?) Collect the siamese port 1/3 further back/ 33". Since the sismese port is mixed at the flange, it isn't going to scavenge but it's velocity can help with any venturi effect downstream.
Assuming you can separate the saimese port you have 6 ports now. Each set with different port timing. On top of that the renesis ports have an extra 1-2 inches of runner vs the gsl ports. Also the gsl ports are the only ports with intake overlap to try and scavenge. Unless you bridgeported early enough to overlap with the ren ports Lots of variables going on. Side, peri, center Timing & RunnerLength. Then what overlaps and what rpm do you want to focus your scavenge off of. Then how does this affect the different stages of the intake system 🤔 What will probably be found out is you can target and get scavenge in high RPM (maybe actually benefit from a bridgeport) but then lose out the low and mid torque that the renesis intake had with no overlap.
It would be real RAD to put this engine in an NC Miata, since they essentially share the same platform. You could end up 227kg/500lbs lighter, which would remedy the weak torque in low rpms and make the acceleration, center of gravity and handling even better!
My car did way better with as long of an individual primary tubes as I could do it was a noticeable difference. Also it would be interesting maybe to collect the 4 main ports and try and keep the seimese port separate as long as possible
I think you might be better off with a single runner in the center, merge them into a single 3", and let er rip. Then we can all go down the header rabbit hole together. After it runs
My advice. Go str8 to a machine shop and have them custom make the flange and exhaust manifold for you. Shouldn't be that hard for a competent machinist
I got a whole saw we could just blow 5 holes through your hood and straight pipe em up - - would save you from buying back bumpers. No was watching kmr & his before he won with that main race - he built rx8 x7 ( he said what 2 he thought would work), I wish I had your problems, your like living the dream. I can't believe how expensive this all got. And I own 2 rx7s so, a 81 &a 90 . I love what your teaching us. Watch most on roku tv . Tony ...
I have in the shopping cart everything to make my hybrid engine n/a waiting for your research. And I've looked at plates and they're hard to get and exhaust manifolds are another odyssey to build them. Thank you for this video. I look forward to those results. P.S: Build two exhaust manifolds. And I'll buy the other one from you XD
Lol love the comedy! More money into the flang then the whole car! Love it ! Got my eye on a 1400 silver rx8 with red n black interior only 70k says it dont run ... ( probably coils or pluged cat ) just gotta convince the wife
How do you plan on dealing with the RX-8/Renesis engine mount and it's close proximity to the exhaust ports? I feel like that's the hardest part of making a more complex header is just finding the room for it.
That comment about chips motorsports... is there an official statement anywhere regarding that? I've heard many a rumors, but would like to know for sure(he still has a set of my side irons ): ).
If I could get my hands on a hybrid flange, I'd take measurements from it and write a .fnc code and machine a bunch of them at the machine shop I work at
Mr Rad, you are a gentleman and a scholar. 👌 Did you call Kyle Mohan? Sure he won't be using a hybrid flange anytime soon...🤣 If we lived in a prefect world the siamese port should have been blocked off altogether.
If you get one of the NA rx7 plates you can block it off and then just port the intake ports. But it is a vicious circle where you are redesigning the 6port fc engine basically with side exhaust ports that aren't needed along with a different intake design which was designed around no intake overlap.
I divided the center plate port on my hybrid it's a semi-peripheral. Power is good.hybrids don't brap like the non Genesis. Will be replacing the center plate with a non renesis soon. . Will not do a redness hybrid ever again
I've heard people give reports of issues with the stock height rx8 apex seals in builds like this but never knew how much truth there were to these claims. Is this build using the rx8 rotors and apex seals, or did you swap it out for a different rotating assembly?
Mister Rad, I have a question and the internet does not have an answer. I am currently turbo charging my 12a, or at least doing the homework to try to. My question is this: what is stopping me from using the front cover from a 13b, so that I can use an ECU and delete the distributor from the 12a. From what I know, I should be able to bolt on a later gen front cover and run what I would like to run. I am mostly doing it for the challenge, but I would like to put 2-4lbs of boost in the engine just for the fun sounds and feel. What's your expert take? Thanks.
i would blank the middle port and just run the outer ones… im just scared that carbon is goin to collect in the port… a different centre iron might have been a better solution
I don't know about anyone else, I keep thinking what if, rotary swapped miata, exocar. Scary light, Scary fast, depending on setup, 2 to 1, power to weight ratio, quicker than the Agera 1, if the tires grip.
What would happen if you ran a small turbo off only the center iron exhaust with a wastegate to atmosphere? Would that put werid back pressure in the system?
It probably wouldn't spool much since the other exhaust ports would be the path of least resistance... It would be similar to just running an open wastegate. BUT if you ran the other ports to a turbo and used the intermediate housing ports for a wastegate, it just **might** work. However, you will probably get a ton of unwanted heat building up in the intermediate housing ports when the wastegate is closed causing heat issues around that port. 100% uncharted territory.
Going to pickup my first RX8 saturday! Yes, I am aware of what I am getting myself into. Or atleast mentally prepared for what Im getting into. 04 87k on body 35k on motor any advice before or after pickup?
Okay hear me out, this is ABSOLUTELY a stupid damn idea with a thousand reasons why it shouldnt work With those siamesed center ports, what if you pumped colder air into those to flush air out of the other exhaust ports at a higher velocity. Feed a shop vac into the center port on a dyno and let the remaining 4 ports do the exhausting just for science
also i'm sure you've already thought of this, but i'll post it anyway. all header component web sites i know of, sell stars for 4-1 collectors. i'm sure you could make something like that for a 2-1 collector. and then turn it the other way, and you can use it as a splitter instead of a collector
if you're pulling out a perfectly fine 13b msp out of the yellow car, can i snag it from you for cheaps? i promise i'll swap it into my ranger right away
Blink twice if THEY'RE making you LS swap it.
Word of advice! When you're doing custom projects like this, don't be afraid to fab some things yourself. I went with a very custom exhaust flange for my NA 20b so I had to make my own. I simply cut some 1/8 particle board to finalize my design, and then I took that piece to the local water jet company to scan in and cut my 1/2" flanges. Total cost was $150 back in 2009. I use the same technique to make my own intake flanges so I can build custom intakes. If you gonna reply on outsiders for many parts, then your projects will struggle. Think outside the box. You can do it!
Couldn't agree more. I was thinking about it when he said about how difficult it is to source the flange Let alone buying it I was like "Don't you just have to make a template from cardboard and put it into 3d model or should I say cad? If that's out of your range you can just make the template and go to nearby machine shop, water jet, cnc shop, plasma table, Ecsetra. They can figure it out." My first project was I had to make a custom carb spacer for my uncle old pick up truck. I just make a custom template from cardboard, draw it onto the chunk of steel and cut it with grinder. Yes it will not be the most flat surface to be able to seal that's why I take it to machine shop. $10 bucks for them to deck the flange $5 for the Chunk metal I found on scrape yard. Works like a factory but will rust because it's a steel and factory uses aluminum wich hard to find this day.
Same case like him.
@fisshuman And see, that's the beauty of making things yourself. You don't have to WAIT on others. Sure, it may not be the best quality or look the greatest, but when you're experimenting, functionality is what matters 1st. You can redo everything later to make it look pretty. Right now I've taken my engine down and refabing my intake set-up and building 2 versions because I want to see which design performs best. Also researching building myself and engine dyno with a retarder so I can test at home and in secret. 😉
Not afraid of the custom fab. Just irked when a part is listed for sale, and then doesn't come in. If there weren't any out there I'd have one cut by a local shop with a plasma cutter and go from there. I am excited to build a couple different iterations and see what it does!
@@RADPotential When you said the price on those, I was OUT. Hell naw! Lol!
@@RADPotential Well, let this be a learning lesson. Internet really is scary because it's hard to trust and not trusting something.
I mean you continue doing it 3 times. If I were you, I would stop at the first one and make myself a custom flanges.
Anyway, it's all good man, as long as you're not stopping the project like other TH-camrs who tried doing the same thing hahahaha.
If that hybrid flange doesn’t work, hit me up and I can draw one up for you that you can use send cut send or another laser cutter to make one cheap or even make a billet one
Personally, I think you’ve got two options…
1. split the Siamese port into two separate pipes. I did this on a peripheral port Renesis engine I built.
The custom header I made used a divider that protruded past the face of the flange and into the port. It had a radius shape to ensure it butted up against the internal radius of the centre iron insert.
2. Ditch the Renesis side exhaust ports. Use the custom header flange to block these off and just run the peripheral exhaust ports.
If you want to get real tricky, add valves to either the side or peripheral exhaust ports and have these open higher up in the rpm.
Can you further explain blocking off the side ports? Would just sealing it off with the flange be enough or would it be preferable to use something similar to jb weld to seal the port while assembling the engine?
@@jad007cafe7 I wouldn’t recommend using any kind of filler in the side exhaust ports.
When making up a custom header flange, use this to cover over and block off the side exhaust ports.
Your channel has the best rx8 content on youtube !
Not sure any of it matters, its going to be chaos anyway. The peripheral exhaust and side exhaust may be from the same rotor, but the opening and closing timing are going to be different. So no single clean pulse anywhere! Going to be some weird resonance all over the rev range... need a lot of maths to work that one out.
Here's a thought. Get a gsl-se exhaust manifold and a renisis exhaust manifold and combine the 2. No need for a custom flange then. Just a thought by the way!
ITS GOING IN THE YELLOW LETSGOOOOO
Grind a point in studs, put them in the holes pointing out, poke a piece of paper or wood to use as a template and use said template to cut a flange out of a piece of steel stock. Take your time drilling and use good lube, also take your time shaping the outer edge of the flange.
There is a very good book called Four-Stroke Performance Tuning by A graham bell. Maisteer created a video called How to fix the WORST sounding V12 Exhaust where he covered the exhaust tuning part of the book. i know a rotary is not a four stoke. it does not have stroke however it still applies.
Scared me with the title of this video! Long time subscriber, trying to navigation patron but would love to suport you with any design work you need!
My opinion is that you would need 5 into 1 tubing set up. Then thru a 3 inch exhaust for maximum flow. This is extremely interesting as a hybrid successfully put together could skyrocket these rx8s. Anyway I will shut up now 😂
Heck yeah I've been working down here in Missouri at The Rotary doctor for years it's cool to see the rotary heads Kyle Mohan racing he built one an offer is a custom exhaust flange thought about me and RX8 2 keep up the good work man it's nice to see other people excited about rotaries again
I drove a hybrid the other day and it was so much fun. Felt good. Keep doing what you're doing mate. It's about trying stuff and enjoying the journey!🎉
Because of your “tubes” references, I myself every other day I say it exactly with the Wolverine’s voice, so that’s that 😂
Success....tubes hahahaa
Keep it up! Don't let the US Department of Rotor Security stop the progress lol
IMO it makes more sense to use a Turbo with the Bridgeport Hybrid Renesis RX8.
use a MASSIVE exhaust housing and the smallest intake compressor that works.
try targeting 10 - 20 PSI of boost.
I bought some flanges from a friend who was making them a few years back. They are individual flanges for each port rather than one big flange. That should allow the keg for a bit of movement. I had the choice of having 5 ports or just the 2 peripheral ones, but went for the later for ease of fabrication so the iron/side plates ports are basically just block off plates. Good luck with the build, mine is on the backburner!
Would be a bit more expensive, but you could probably piggyback off of the true dual design of the RacingBeat NA "true dual" exhaust for the FC. Might even be able to use the presilencer from that system.
Algorithm engagement, increase science related videos with 1 result per video
From memory the shorter header will enhance top end performance thanks to the exhaust waves taking less time to reflect. The longer header is used when you want to reduce reversion at low rpm hence reducing the power losses caused by long duration porting (ie bridge and peripheral ports). So short for racing where you dgaf about low rpm power, Longer for street use.
Single flange seems like a potentially iffy idea given irons vs housings. Splitting it out to individual flanges may work out slightly better.
As for the tuning effects of the exhaust... Well, the port timing ruins the thought of merging the peripheral and side ports early. The peripheral ports will be doing the absolute vast majority of exhaust flow, since they open a cool 25deg earlier than the side ports, and open far more rapidly. This means the events of the peripheral (or "primary" exhaust ports) will be the ones with the most possible tuning effect. The newly auxiliary side ports will be more or less just a dull "woosh" of what exhaust remains. Merge them immediately (log?) and pipe it separately. Also gives the ability to cap it and see how much it changes power.
Can't wait to see this at NCM! Be ready for a black and yellow NC in your rearview haha.
I'll be out there this fall in the RX7 for sure!!
I wonder if you could use an rx8 flange cut the exhaust components out, use a 13b exhaust flange separate the exhaust components and either weld together or use individually. I believe the rx8 centre exhaust flange opening is narrower to achieve the desired volume of exhaust gas for each firing rotor, I would keep this method. 😊
lol. What do all RX8 owners have "not a ton of money” 😂😂 that’s a meme
3d print the part/test with plastic and then order it from shapeways or another 3d print service. You can get it printed in steel and other materials.
Printing metal parts is tricky, especially when they’re for exhaust components. Laser-sintered metal powder parts tend to have issues with surface finish and porosity.
Not to mention cost, whereas a flat steel plate with a few CNC’d holes would be significantly cheaper.
I have a megan racing header and if you get the racing beat engine to header flange you can incorporate it into the renesis header. The racing beat flange is $82.03. You would have to cut it and weld it into the renesis header by cutting the flange to fit your rx7 flanges. The piping you c an figure out once you see the tubing routing of the header. I think that can work for you. Just an idea.
I know i have posted this a few times but... i had a builder who told me about building rx8 blocks for boost, saying all ports are no good. This was backed up by terry from arc who has experience saying the pp exhaust without the side ports will give you gains. But in NA form.
The builder said he has had success filling the side ports with molten alloy fro irons. A YTer did this with zinc. Worked well until the zinc failed.
Apparently, using material from the irons means it expands and shrinks as per the rest of the housing. You block the port at the end with a plate to seal it up.
Curious if it is easier to just fill the ports and do a modified 13b header on it, or this is an evolution of the project, assuming the apex seals nuke like a few on here arw theorising.
Hey man I have been dreaming about doing this a hot minute. Like years. 5 years ago my buddy got an RX8 for 5500$ with little miles well less then 6 months later he hit a deer spilled coolant everywhere got it towed to his house. Well 3 weeks ago 2 days after you posted your vid I got it for 500$. I am super excited to follow along with you and am totally willing to flop data back and forth when it comes to it. ✌️
The BHR Long Tube is what I have on my RX-8
Get it done!! got my fully peripheral ported renesis hybrid in my mx5 and runinng!!
I’ve seen a picture of a renesis exhaust manifold and a Pp exhaust mani welded together. Not sure how well it worked as they went into witness protection after posting.
6:29 "Tubes"
Wow great job man, patiently waiting to see the project
Maybe the best option would be to just block the Renesis exhaust ports, at the manifold. Exhaust timing differences between the Renesis exhaust and the PP one are different (talking about the same rotor), weird sxhit will happen there, if you leave both open.
There's a guy working on a BMW IQ7 who 3d printed whole wet inconel intake and exhaust. Maybe contact him for 3D model and print with him.
For the length of tube needed I don't think it'll fit or be worth the cost.
That dude had a 2 port turbo manifold about 10in runners which would be a $1000+ stainless part. Or a $3000+ inconel part. For a 5-6 port long tube, who knows the cost.
I remember being told the 12A liked 2 pipes going all the way back but the 13B did not. Just a comment to help the algorithm and hopefully another confirmation of what others may have said?
Buy a Renesis header, and a 13B header, sawzall, welding, BOOM goes the dynamite.
I think you should just build a log style manifold, and then eventually tune the exhaust when you can get more data on the motor. It’d also be cool to see a megaphone utilized on a rotary
Maybe don't go crazy on the first manifold iteration?... Just get the engine running and broken in. At the end of the day it sounds like this is always going to be a wanted and needed part for the Ren-hybrid… when you have proof of concept. Outside of that, this video below looks so promising for a small header, like for an RX8, I've been thinking about doing this for a standard renisis myself if I can get some help; VIDEO: 3D printed 13B custom exhaust manifold: th-cam.com/video/rJtX_xwq_4M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=p4CGtNAAvUID0Scx
i was thinking of the same video. Seems a lot easier than welding
I pick up my 8 this week and get it on the track next month. I definitely think a shorty log manifold with a proper tapered merge would have a market…. I’d like to see a proper long tube since the BHR seemed to make power…. But a discussion for another day.
I want to build one of these engines but make a 12a one. Keep the 12a center iron instead of the rx8 one so you don’t combine exhaust pulses so you could run a twin screw turbo. Would be a fun little engine
Collect the two peripheral ports at short tube length (25"?) Collect the siamese port 1/3 further back/ 33". Since the sismese port is mixed at the flange, it isn't going to scavenge but it's velocity can help with any venturi effect downstream.
5 exhaust 5 turbos
Been watching your videos for some years now. And I absolutely love every single one! It’s awesome
Assuming you can separate the saimese port you have 6 ports now. Each set with different port timing. On top of that the renesis ports have an extra 1-2 inches of runner vs the gsl ports.
Also the gsl ports are the only ports with intake overlap to try and scavenge. Unless you bridgeported early enough to overlap with the ren ports
Lots of variables going on.
Side, peri, center Timing & RunnerLength. Then what overlaps and what rpm do you want to focus your scavenge off of. Then how does this affect the different stages of the intake system 🤔
What will probably be found out is you can target and get scavenge in high RPM (maybe actually benefit from a bridgeport) but then lose out the low and mid torque that the renesis intake had with no overlap.
It would be real RAD to put this engine in an NC Miata, since they essentially share the same platform. You could end up 227kg/500lbs lighter, which would remedy the weak torque in low rpms and make the acceleration, center of gravity and handling even better!
My car did way better with as long of an individual primary tubes as I could do it was a noticeable difference. Also it would be interesting maybe to collect the 4 main ports and try and keep the seimese port separate as long as possible
I think you might be better off with a single runner in the center, merge them into a single 3", and let er rip. Then we can all go down the header rabbit hole together. After it runs
My advice. Go str8 to a machine shop and have them custom make the flange and exhaust manifold for you. Shouldn't be that hard for a competent machinist
I got a whole saw we could just blow 5 holes through your hood and straight pipe em up - - would save you from buying back bumpers. No was watching kmr & his before he won with that main race - he built rx8
x7 ( he said what 2 he thought would work), I wish I had your problems, your like living the dream. I can't believe how expensive this all got. And I own 2 rx7s so, a 81 &a 90 . I love what your teaching us. Watch most on roku tv . Tony ...
i dont doubt you did it but KMR makes that exhaust flange
I have in the shopping cart everything to make my hybrid engine n/a waiting for your research.
And I've looked at plates and they're hard to get and exhaust manifolds are another odyssey to build them.
Thank you for this video.
I look forward to those results.
P.S: Build two exhaust manifolds. And I'll buy the other one from you XD
Lol love the comedy! More money into the flang then the whole car! Love it ! Got my eye on a 1400 silver rx8 with red n black interior only 70k says it dont run ... ( probably coils or pluged cat ) just gotta convince the wife
To better our community IMO share your findings and blueprints.
Dang man you should have asked @Robdahm to make you a flange lol. But all in all man that freaking blows
Dude same sh*t. A part is all I need to get my RX8 running 😢
How do you plan on dealing with the RX-8/Renesis engine mount and it's close proximity to the exhaust ports? I feel like that's the hardest part of making a more complex header is just finding the room for it.
like and commenting to feed the algorithm
Flange is going to show up tomorrow now that you've given up and made a video today about the flange not showing up.
I'm hoping so!
That comment about chips motorsports... is there an official statement anywhere regarding that? I've heard many a rumors, but would like to know for sure(he still has a set of my side irons ): ).
Would sealing the stock side ports with something like jb weld work? That way you can use a normal exhaust manifold with only 2 exhaust ports
When it comes in, make a template!!!!
Are you going to me able to use the stock engine mount bracket with the new exhaust manifold?
If I could get my hands on a hybrid flange, I'd take measurements from it and write a .fnc code and machine a bunch of them at the machine shop I work at
Even Kyle Mohan Racing doesn't offer the flansches?
Check out formula Mazda’s headers, very 2 stroke like expansion chambers.
Do a 4 rotor RX8!
Mr Rad, you are a gentleman and a scholar. 👌
Did you call Kyle Mohan? Sure he won't be using a hybrid flange anytime soon...🤣
If we lived in a prefect world the siamese port should have been blocked off altogether.
If you get one of the NA rx7 plates you can block it off and then just port the intake ports. But it is a vicious circle where you are redesigning the 6port fc engine basically with side exhaust ports that aren't needed along with a different intake design which was designed around no intake overlap.
I divided the center plate port on my hybrid it's a semi-peripheral. Power is good.hybrids don't brap like the non Genesis. Will be replacing the center plate with a non renesis soon. . Will not do a redness hybrid ever again
Fill the center plate ports
I've heard people give reports of issues with the stock height rx8 apex seals in builds like this but never knew how much truth there were to these claims. Is this build using the rx8 rotors and apex seals, or did you swap it out for a different rotating assembly?
Mister Rad, I have a question and the internet does not have an answer. I am currently turbo charging my 12a, or at least doing the homework to try to. My question is this: what is stopping me from using the front cover from a 13b, so that I can use an ECU and delete the distributor from the 12a. From what I know, I should be able to bolt on a later gen front cover and run what I would like to run. I am mostly doing it for the challenge, but I would like to put 2-4lbs of boost in the engine just for the fun sounds and feel. What's your expert take? Thanks.
Stock port hybrid with a semi pp port that opens up after 6k please!!!
I think you could pull 300whp with the right tune on e85
Itb on the pp
i would blank the middle port and just run the outer ones… im just scared that carbon is goin to collect in the port… a different centre iron might have been a better solution
I don't know about anyone else, I keep thinking what if, rotary swapped miata, exocar. Scary light, Scary fast, depending on setup, 2 to 1, power to weight ratio, quicker than the Agera 1, if the tires grip.
Rx8 boom tube exhaust.
turbo center chamber turbulance solved with more power
why cant you make 2 3 in 1 by splitting the middle port?
Thanks for doing this for us
I thought racing mazdatrix the flange?
I5 hood stack all the way
Your the man bro!
What would happen if you ran a small turbo off only the center iron exhaust with a wastegate to atmosphere? Would that put werid back pressure in the system?
It probably wouldn't spool much since the other exhaust ports would be the path of least resistance... It would be similar to just running an open wastegate. BUT if you ran the other ports to a turbo and used the intermediate housing ports for a wastegate, it just **might** work. However, you will probably get a ton of unwanted heat building up in the intermediate housing ports when the wastegate is closed causing heat issues around that port. 100% uncharted territory.
@@surrrithux we sounds like a fun experiment when senior rad hits 100k subs
I've been using my Hybrid for 3 years on my B2200 if u need help
Awesome video mate haven't watched it yet but I'm sure it will be great 😂
I still think you should your name to Mr RX-8 lol
Design your own!, send cut send? Pcbway?
What's up with a log style manifold ?
log manifold
Going to pickup my first RX8 saturday! Yes, I am aware of what I am getting myself into. Or atleast mentally prepared for what Im getting into. 04 87k on body 35k on motor any advice before or after pickup?
Let it warm up before you beat on it. Not saying you have to let it idle for an hour, but keep RPMs low until your temp gauge is in the middle
@@tokirak Thanks, one of the reoccurring things I am hearing. Going to compression test with test drive and hopefully bring it home!
Don't know anyone with a plasma cutter?
🔥🔥👀
🐐
At least your not the hydrogen dune buggy guy ...
Excuses Excuses...... You could run it without an exhaust... :)
He could… but what would that prove?
Okay hear me out, this is ABSOLUTELY a stupid damn idea with a thousand reasons why it shouldnt work
With those siamesed center ports, what if you pumped colder air into those to flush air out of the other exhaust ports at a higher velocity.
Feed a shop vac into the center port on a dyno and let the remaining 4 ports do the exhausting just for science
also i'm sure you've already thought of this, but i'll post it anyway. all header component web sites i know of, sell stars for 4-1 collectors. i'm sure you could make something like that for a 2-1 collector. and then turn it the other way, and you can use it as a splitter instead of a collector
if you're pulling out a perfectly fine 13b msp out of the yellow car, can i snag it from you for cheaps? i promise i'll swap it into my ranger right away
Good stuff!