Heat Treating W1 Tool Steel using the Hot Shot 360 Heat Treat Oven
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- How I heat treat W1 Tool steel using the Hot Shot 360 Heat Treat Oven from Bar Z Industrial.
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Hi Keith,
Just a couple of pointers from an old blacksmith. One has already been mentioned, add salt until a potato will float when making your brine. The other is you should use stainless steel foil to protect your part from oxidizing. Using boric acid will destroy the lining of your oven especially if you get any directly on the brick. Boric acid contains alot of sodium which has an affinity with the brick lining and will eventually eat through it.
Ask any blacksmith who forge welds in a gas forge.
Great video as always,
Dick
Boric Acid does not contain any sodium. You may be mixing it up with Borax, a related compound. If you have sodium contaminants left over from converting Borax to Boric Acid, consult a new chemical distributor.
@JohnHolmes the second
You are correct but since Keith referred to roach poison I assumed it did.
"Boric acid and its sodium borate salts are pesticides that we can find in nature and many products. Borax is one of the most common products. Boric acid and its sodium salts each combine boron with other elements in a different way. In general, their toxicities each depend on the amount of boron they contain.
Boric acid and its sodium salts can be used to control a wide variety of pests. These include insects, spiders, mites, algae, molds, fungi, and weeds. Products that contain boric acid have been registered for use in the United States since 1948."
I always use stainless steel foil,with a piece of paper inside
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Torin Adrian instablaster ;)
Very interesting. I have read that the reason for the salt in the water is to prevent the water from forming steam bubbles. These bubbles can stick to the cooling part and act as insulation. This creates a little place where the metal does not cool as fast thus making it softer in that locale. No steam bubbles help in creating an evenly cooled, hence evenly hardened, part.
Morning coffee with Keith! It doesn't get any better! Thanks Keith👍👍👍👍
Neat oven. Better over engineered than under. Thanks for sharing the process.
Another great video, and again, thanks so much for all the help! The band saw is back in business again. ;)
Very impressed with how fast that got up to heat👌
I was lucky to work for a company as a teenager. They had a large annealing chamber. It had a water jacket. It was so cool seeing the change in the metal and still be able to touch the outside while it was operating.
A neat feature would be a inlet port to allow the user to pump an altered atmosphere ( nitrogen) in to the oven while in use.
Makes a rather nice addition to your shop. Stan designs and builds some handsome stainless-steel units
Nevar took a shop class, and yet this amiable southern gentleman is a delight to watch.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Great video, thanks. I bought a HotShot360 oven also.
Nice. Me too.
Thanks for the great video
Thanks for the video.
Very nice video thanks for sharing.
Now you'll be able to preheat cast iron pieces before you weld cast iron for repairs. Of course radiant heat will be a problem so you'll have to make some heat shields for when you weld but at least the repair will be the most solid repair. Good luck!
When making shop brine, the iodine is not necessary in the salt... love the oven, great video.
Keith nice work.
Kooking With Keith. Good Monday Morning.
Very interesting
Stan has the entire series of how the oven was designed and built, on his channel. Fun stuff!! I watched all of those videos, and now Keith shows us the oven in action. That was also fun to watch. I wonder if Keith is getting a commission !!!!
@Eric Cartman you dont want them to cool down with a fan, you want it to cool slowly when annealing
@Eric Cartman Before you continue to make a fool of yourself, I suggest you go over to Stan's channel and watch the videos of the design and making of these ovens. As long as the power cord is plugged in the fan will work whether the switch is on or not.
@Eric Cartman shame that idiot children have to come here to make arguments
Great video....thanks. I was surprised to see you quench the cutter by entering the brine horizontally. I would have been worried about warping and plunged it perpendicular to the brine.
My understanding is that very thin sections are sensitive to this sort of thing---like knives.
Nice, a basic and available everywhere PID.
Like the blue banner, much better than the red one.
Enjoyed Keith!
ATB, Robin
Nice job !!! Thanks for sharing. Can you talk about the steel A1 and AW1?
I bet it makes great popcorn! :)
eezzie peezie with that heater. thanks.
Nice!!!
Very interesting and different from your usual machining. Speaking of different, how is the wood shop? Make a video of progress on it or use of it sometime, thanks.
Chris aka Clickspring uses the boric acid method to prevent oxidation
When salt is added, it makes it harder for the water molecules to escape from the pot and enter the gas phase, so basically you get less violent reaction and less bubbles. Bubbles are sort of thermal insulation and can slow down the cooling process when they form around your quenched item making it quench less, also they are kinetic force and can warp your piece while it's heated to plasticity or crack it when it's cooled and very britle. So less bubbles = better. This part looks thick enough to survive a quench in water/brine. for tinner parts you might want to switch to oil instead and preheat it for less density/better heat absorption. :) Also I'd recomend preheating the oven before inserting your item. Heating steel slowly can be beneficial to some degree, but above 1022F very undesirable processes start to occur so you generally want to mount to quenching temperature as fast as possible and avoid those at all costs. If you want to slowly preheat your item, you would need two ovens: preheat the steel to 1022F along with the first oven and keep it at that level for some time, then transfer it to a second oven already at quenching temperature to skip the bad part ;)
Enjoyed this Video, the program feature in the Oven is very nice! I know you heat Treated this part according to owners request, but couln't it of been wrapped in foil instead of covering in Boric Acid? I'm not familiar with W1.God Bless!
Although salt decreases freezing point quite dramatically, it has an insignificant effect on boiling point
I wonder if the more desirable effect might be what happens to the viscosity?
Did he cut the worm screw too or just the wheel? I would be interested to see how that would be done.
If his lathe can cut the hob, he can cut the worm but probably different material because tribology and such.
I only needed to modify a worm wheel that I bought that I thought was the right one. The diameter, number of teeth, bore, everyting was correct, but the root diameter was 0.070" too large. Same old story, days of work to get ready to make a cut that takes minutes! ;)
Any updates on the metal planer behind you. Haven't mentioned that in a while.
Good place to warm a sammich
You know what, I like the way you think...
Couple of things. First glad you had on a full face shield. Second, I have tried the Boic Acid wrap (see Click Spring video) and it had formed a glass like coating on the part that was super difficult to remove. You didn't have a close up of the finished part, so did the water/salt remove this on the finish?
@@JorgTheElder Thanks next attempt I will give that a try.
From what I've read, the brine (8:30) prevents the water from making a stem cocoon that insulates the part from the water. The boiling point may shift a degree or two but mainly the trick is to avoid bubbles of steam. I've heard blacksmiths (from back in the day) say horse piss or all kinds of things in the water---probably they all have similar effects.
I've NEVER BEEN The First Viewer Ever On A Video ... Great Job !!!
1st...try Tatro Machine..not to many people comment there...unless they like a guy beating on the Harleys he works on...
hahah, i have all these features.. but theres a timer on my phone.. thats exactly where im at with #0017s too. lol interesting video though keith. really enjoyed
also.. the fan keeps going even if you turn the controller off
@@EmmaRitson perhaps the fan has a temp sensor of its own? would make sense, they are easily available , have you tried leaving it to fully cool with the fan?
Yes. It runs while it's plugged in and over 70f aprox.
Liedenfrost effect is the reason you need to move the item about as you quench it. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leidenfrost_effect (for those curious souls)
thanks for the videos and I hope you enjoy your new oven.
Thanks for the link, very interesting!
For a moment I thought that worm-screw was some *excessively* locked rotating bolt-blank you had there Keith--I was waiting for the ATF to come knocking on your workshop door!!!
The oven looks very nice indeed. It is for certain that hobbyists like your friend can himself make better ones than are commercially available. Although nothing like as hot, I have seen and _tried_ to use commercial reflow-ovens for electronics projects and they are ridiculously expensive and very low quality. Most electronics enthusiasts use kitchen toaster-ovens and get far better quality at a fraction of the price! I dare this is a similar situation.
The only issue I might raise is a slight problem with the fit-and-finish on the control pad. It looks like the instrumentation mount is not brilliantly square on its supports--quite a big uneven gap on the lower-right side. Or is that just a trick of perspective with the camera?
Small point, but the boric acid melted, didn't it? If so, then the part DID sink to the bottom of the container and touch the foil.
Many guys i know do, as another poster said, wrap the part in SS foil, but they also put a piece of paper inside the wrapper to use up any free oxygen inside. That keeps the part from oxidizing.
I would have liked to see the hardness - pre and post operations.
Just an FYI on the salt! Table salt usually has anti-caking agents in it as well as iodine! Both of which will change the amount of Sodium Chloride per pound! It would be best to use Kosher, or Canning salt, if you are going to get it as a Grocery store, both of which are just Sodium Chloride!
Yeah well given the 'precision' with which the amount of salt added was measured, the small differences (minuscule) you're describing are not an issue. Table salt is 98% NaCl by weight, with ~2% anti-caking plus a tiny amount of KI (potassium iodide) so we don't get goiters. Watch Keith pouring the salt in, do you think altering his target mass by ~2% could make a difference?
@@steveh8724 It certanly can make a difference! It is not so much the difference in the amount of salt as it is the addition of the other chemicals that may be considered contaminants and effect the surface of the metal in the quench.
Hi Keith, is there a reason why you used such a large bucket and copious amount of water for the quench ? Did you use sea salt or iodized, and are there different results in the choice of salt ? Thanks J K
Hey Keith. Just curious if you might be able to help me. Was given a small cement mixer and the first time I used it the worm gear on the motor stripped out. Come to find out its plastic. The ring gear it runs on is steel. Go figure. If I sent you the worm gear and maybe the ring gear would you be able to make the worm gear out of steel?
the time it takes to make something like this would almost certainly exceed the value of the entire unit. You dont whip something like this out in a couple of hours.
@@danneumann3274 man that question is long handled. I had forgotten all about it
Power requirements?
Toss in some crawdads! Enjoyed. Thanks
OLD heat treating trick =Salt until the potato floats
_*Pre-heating the oven first is not necessary during this process? The part is put in for the initial ramp up? Interesting*_🤔
LOL - "Discouraged" my keester - try "Disgusted", or "Disabused of the notion that it was worth a warm bucket of spit"... ~>XD
You didn't show when your whole shop filled with smoke from the melting boric acid. Haha, I have done it many times. Have since gone to stainless foil. Much nicer. Also boric acid will start failing/burning off over 1500 deg.
my wife put about that amount of salt in a pot of beans one time
Oh my god, poor you!!
😂😂😂
Too much salt...I read somewhere that can be somewhat remedied by a slice or 2 of bread in the pot...
Sounds deeeelicious... sign me up! (I might be overdoing salt a leeeeedle bit... but don't quote me, I'll deny it!)
They charge an arm plus a leg for those ovens...but, what else is new
👉👍
Considering they use boric acid in eye drops and vaginal suppositories, I don't think you have much to be concerned with as far as using gloves to handle it! It is a very week acid at best and is also used as an antiseptic and low toxicity insecticide. Just don't eat it and you will be fine!
Arrrgghhh, pet peeve alert. You "lose" audio when a wire comes "loose". Sorry, but had to go there.
I agree. There is no reason to dilute the language. www.amazon.com/Strictly-Speaking-America-Death-English/dp/1412813271
Boric acid is very mild and is primary ingredient in EYE WASH!
Yes, not dangerous to the skin, but you DON'T want to ingest it. Boric acid is used to kill roaches.
@@eliduttman315 the lethal dose for a mammal is about two and a half grams per kilogram of body weight.
Depending upon the concentration. You should understand what PH means.
@@silasmarner7586 dry, strait boric acid, pH 5.1 about 1000 times less acidic than Vinegar...
Was it necessary to preheat the brine. My understanding is that brine is used instead of water to increase the speed of the quench because it boils at a slightly higher temperature thus staying fluid in contact with the metal for longer. Surely heating the brine will have less of a rapid cooling effect, negating the addition of salt.
This is not my specialist subject just my understanding learnt from an old oldtimer.
Go easy on us steel snobs. Knifemakers have to be nerdy about something
I heard kosher salt makes a better quench brine, just kidding
Himalayan Pink Salt Better Yet JK
Alton Brown swears by Kosher salt for making brine....wait, wrong channel LOL
Loosing the audio is better than loosing the gods of war!
I just accepted that in 2030 those will officially mean the same thing. Also your and you're. Also affect and effect. Also regardless and irregardless. *Sigh* stop the world, I want to get off (also, get off my lawn!!!)...
No doubt this oven is first quality. But the color scheme on the panel really needs to be reviewed somebody who's not on drugs and who's name is not Stevie Wonder. :-D
stans a fan of 70s hot rods, probably
I like the colors!
I was going for a retro 80's speed boat look, what do you think? Nailed it?
@@ShadonHKW Yes You Did!!
@@ShadonHKW when an engineer designs it, its simple, makes sense, and has chunky buttons, when a designer, it would have one multi function button and lcd screen and need to read the instructions to use even the most basic parts then forget next time....sometimes the regular toggle switch and obvious functions is forgotten, keep designing them simple stan
Hi Keith. If you would pronounce the name of your channel more slowly and distinctly you will make your brand more accessible. Your speech patterns are so fast that international watchers and some domestic viewers may have some trouble following you.
Real men don't wear gloves!!! Ha!
A 19 minute infomercial. Wrong on so many levels.